London and Paris Fashions.

Auckland Star, Volume XXVII, Issue 108, 9 May 1896, Page 1 (Supplement)

London and Paris Fashions.

(FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.)

Regent-street, April 4* The gianfa aigretbo holds the millinery situation at the present moment, although id is severely elbowed by chinchilla fur and mirror velvet. In all the loading Eegenb and Bond street millinery ateliers there is scarcely a emarb toque, hab or bonneb to be discovered without chinchilla, velvet miroir, or one of the large osprey aigrettes, as an important part ot its attractions. In some cases, a combination of all three is broughb t© bear on one shape, which case applies to the model sketched in Fig. 1.

The crown of this extremely prebty toque is covered with folds and loops 01 dark grey mirror velvet, which also undulates with chinchilla fur (about two and a half to three inches wide) round the brim or edge ; a paste buckle holding it on the right side; and on the left towards the back, springs the aigrette, very full, about six times as thick, in fact, as hitherto used, and abonb seven inches in height:. Someof theospreys are parti-coloured, black and white, etc., the divisions going across. A special protoßb was ofibred some time back on behalf

of the unfortunate birds supplying osproyß* but tho manufacturers assured the humane champions of the feathered victims that the domaod had created a substitute so closely imitating tho original article a« to almost entiroly supersede ib. It is much to be hoped this statement) (with tho present oaprey craze in view) was nob an exaggeration. There are, of course, charming exceptions, particularly in blie case of some of the now toques; bub taken en masse, a study of the smart milliner's window of today is calculated to excifco the most phlegmatic mind. .Harmony in colouring, fitness in form or material, all are conspicuous by their absence ; some half of the models displayed being designed apparently for the gay and irresponsible heroines of Comic Opera, and no woman of refinement or taste could possibly air Buck atrocities on her bead for ordinary wear.

Veils are becoming highly, imporbanb now, nob only from fashion's point of view (thab has been tbe caso for a long time), bub from thab momentuous consideration—the complexion. The most celestial toque, hat, or bonnet, ever created becomes a vanity and vexation of spirit, when en*t winda and frost have imparted an azuro hue to cheeks and lips, and rosy tinge to tho nose. The gossamer transparencies we call veils now would nob appear to be much protection against the unkind elements, bub, as a matter of fact, if slight, bhoy era sufficjent to bo emphatically worth consideration, for .this.purpose. There is an extraordinary variety of veilings now produced, and, with care, ib is possible to everyone to procure one at once protective without* being too thick, and becoming and improving, as well as softening down tho lj'ttle asperities referred bo should they arise after long exposure to frost or wind. Tho latest novelty in voHing has bright green chenille Bpots. This must be worn with discretion.

A late autumn novelty has been introduced amongst the exclusive ladies' tailors in the form of the short ' sac' jacket. This is a descendant of the vac coat vrorn some three or four years ago, which so disturbed the general equanimity when it first apponrod, owing to its odd and ungainly appearance. There is little difference i<> the up-to-dato sac and its ancestor. . Jt in shorter and ifc quite plain nts tho back, where its ancient relative had a sort of Watbeau pleat from tho collar, and thafc is all.

In Fig. 2,1 show a model of the shorb sac jacket in fawn cloth. Ib is perfectly straight from all points of view, is cab to justi below the hips, and has a double row of large Mobhar-o'-Fearl button?, with cable collar fend cuffo. . .

The mediaeval collar is resuming its sway for outdoor wear this winter; the high • roll,' what the French call evase, and high square, with corners turned down, all being used both in far and velvet or plusb. These are a greab comfort to look forward to ; and all of yon who are subjeo.b to cold and neuralgia will rejoice in tho prospect of warmth and coziness round neck and ears without looking demode. These picturesque call&rg require ' dressing up to,' nnd should, to look well, be worn with suitable coab and headgear.

In Fig. 3, the new cape is introduced to my readers, which is cub with open throat und rovers, crossing and fastening on the left side wibh a large paste buckle, and then falling itt ends to near tho bottom of the skirt. The model is built of sieal&kin, and has big collar revors of chinchilla. I&conlel, of course,,be carried oub in seal plush also, with rovers of any other suitable fur the home mantle-maker might possess, or prefer.

Shopkeepers seem suffering severely from tho general attack of Trilby-mania. A strange assortment of Trilby hats, blouses, shoes, and innumerable other items—withoub the vap-usntj connection with Mr Dv Maurier's much-boomed heroine—is now meeting our gaze at every turn. ROSELLE.