THE PREMIER.

Auckland Star, Volume XXV, Issue 75, 29 March 1894, Page 2

THE PREMIER.

HIS NORTHERN TOUR.

TEE NATIVE DIFFICULTY AND GUM CRISIS.

iS- EXHAUSTIVE INVESTIGATION'

IN THE HAUNTS OF THE MAORI AND GUJVIDIGGER.

THE LAMENT OF THE NORTHROADS.

Tin', -v; of the roadless North has .or.. . : ;■ unded through the land. The jament is nob of recent date ; bub year by year has steadily grown and increased in volume until it baa sunk into insignificance almost every other question affecting th e province. In the pastlittle or no efforts were made by the Government of the day to ameliorate thie deplorable slate of atlairs, and tbe settler, beset by all manner of difficulties and oftentimes danger, has bad to struggle on a3 best he could, relying on his own exertions and a kindly Providence. Impassable roads and no roads at all and a consequent isolation irom market and business centres have been disheartening handicaps for tho settlers, and that they have fought on and ab last established homes proves conclusively their lion heartedness and courage. But it seems that the turn in tho long lane has at last boen approached, thanks to the present Liberal Government. To the Hon. R. J. Seddon is due all praise and credit for being the first Prime Minister of New Zealand to bo personally interested in the wrongs and distresses of the North of Auckland, and to demonstrate that interest in a practical way. We can with confidence say that every settler and resident gratefully appreciated tho desire shown by tho Premier to lighten the burdens of the struggling toilers and to permanently improve the existing circumstance?. The visits and investigations were by no means of a superficial character ; every opportunity was availed of to glean the fuilesC and most accurate information, and the honourable gentleman unaerwenb a great deal of fatigue and labour in his determination to make his knowledge as complete as possible. He was everywhere enthusiastically received by tbe residents and settlers, who exhibited their delight at the visit of the Prime Minister in every possible way. Mr Seddon is now thoroughly conversant with the needs of the North, and the position aa regards native lands, tbe locking up of which has so greatly retarded the settlement and prosperity of the country, and accentuated the hardships of the pioneers. The gum industry was not neglected,* and the Premier's suggestions for solving the difficulty in connection with the present crisis, and to meet any future contingencies, have almost without exception been heartily ondorsed by gumdiggors and others interested in this valuable trade. The tour concluded on Tuesday evening, and although it is premature to predict, we are pretty safe in saying that next session will see most of the proposals framed in definite terms. THE JOfJRNEY COMMENCED. On Tuesday night, the 13th inst., tho Hon. R. J. Seddon lefb Auckland in pursuance of the visit which waa promised last session, to the country comprising the extreme northern portion of the North Island of New Zealand. The party, numbering altogether seven persons, included tho Hon. J. Carroll, the representative of the native race in tho Cabinet;, and Messrs Gerhard Mueller (Commissioner of Crown Lands), T. Hamer, (Private Secretary to the Premier), J. F. Andrews (official reporter), and the representatives of the How Zealand " Times " and Auckland Star. The trip by the steamer Wellingbon' to Whangarei initiated the journey into the northern wilderness, and the party made Marsden Point and steamed up the tortuous though pretty arm of the sea that leads to the jetty and railway on the following morning. The sea jaunt had proved a delightful inauguration of the tour, and no one had had any cause to bemoan unruliness or insubordination in the gastric egions. On the landing stage, cordial, and his jolly countenance wreathed in welcoming smiles, stood Mr Robert Thompson, member for fchti Marsden electorate 4 and with him was Mr Dobbie, well known to Aucklanders a3 the most successful orange cultivator in the district, and who is also manager of the railway traffic in this particular portion of the colony. Under the care of these willing gentlemen, the run to the township was quickly accomplished, and the travellers ab once adjourned to the Commercial Hotel, where Ho3t Bunyarcl had thoughtfully prepared a most excellent breakfast. The" wants of the inner man had scarcely boon satisfied, and a few telegraph messages received, considered, quid the answers despatched, when the Premier WAS UNDER WEIGH to fulfil the objects of his tour—to visit the toiler for kauri gum in his lonely, desolate haunts, and the Maoris in their most retired villages. Comfortably ensconced in a capacious brake, a start was made for Poroti, a settlement lying some 17 miles almost due west of Whangarei, the centre of one of the best gumfields in tho North and of the Uriroroi?, a tribe holding some 50,000 acres of firafc-class land. The road was of a very circuitous nature at the commencement of the journey, leading over a low range of hills. Once these were negotiated some very pleasant level country was traversed, tho good metalled road being skirted on either side by thriving homesteads. A prolific crop of muize and a miscellaneous profusion of vegetable growth were eloquent testimonies to the rich productive quality of the soil, and their contemplation almost forced one into a state of dreamy reverie—to forget the present unnatural Ht'ate of affairs and picture the North a happy prosperous country with all the munificentgiftsand resources of abounbiful Nature being gimilarly availed of and developed, Alas ! this ideal was soon rudely disturbed and dispelled, not only by a completo change in the aspect of the land, bub also by tho most unceremonious jolting of our devoted vehicle. We had parted company with the settlers' best friend, Macadam, and leaving behind tho evidences of man's civilising hand for tho nonce, had plunged into a region still clothed in all the GLORY AND BEAUTY of Nature's'original garments. Down the winding mountain path on the far side of the range wo were soon enjoying a ocene which dwellers in tbe towns are seldom privileged to witness. The hills, thickly wooded with virgin bush, rope abruptly on ourrighb, a tern clad valley followed usonthe loft, and far away, restricting the vision, was the horizon of ranges—the eternal ranges. Small homesteads cosily nestled in the forest by the wayside were passed at long intervals, and blackened smouldering stumps and partially cleared plots showed what a courageous und successful fight the lonely settler was waging with almost overwhelming forces. Several bullock waggons convoying knuri timber from a stretch of bush in the vicinity of Maungatapere wore quickly lost in the rear, and then wo were left to ourselves and nature. Bub no more ruminating on the country as it ought to be, was possible; all one's thoughts and energies wero concentrated in deviling tho best and safest.means of alighting from the coach the moment before it capsized or rolled over the emfaiiukraent. That precious vehicle, how-

ever, seemed to take a fiendish pleasure in anticipating your decisions, and unless the calculations were carried on with both arms glued tightly round the rail you were in imminent danger of pitching HEADLONG INTO SPACE. These sensations were rendered doubly acute at times by the coach foolishly endeavouring (so ib appeared to the occupants) to travel along the side of a house— the road would suddenly slope right away and form a very obtuse angle, along which the conveyance careered at a reckless pace, while its valuable freight looked anxiously into emptiness and pondered on the uncertainty of human life and the particular law of gravitation that kept the machine from rolling wildly into a stream some half mile below. However, as nothing serious occurred, and as we continued to pass safely over many another murderous stretch of road, we concluded that a kindly Providence had extended us its protection, and therefore we once more turned our attentions to the wondrous beauties of nature. The road wo were traversing was simply villainous in mid summer; its state during the winter months would defy adequate description by the most eloquent of writers. It could not be expressed in writing. Fancy that hilly, uneven, and, at places, precipitous, surface made soapy by rains, and hundreds of the awful ruts and holes completely lost to view under several feet of water, and the reader may possibly have a faint conception of the DIFFICOLTIES AND DANGERS experienced by those daring spirits who constitute the advance guard of civilisation in a new land. The ranges came to an end at last, and we bowled over pretty, lowlying country, skirting the edge of an extensive kahikatea bush, with the track meandering through a large atea of fiat, good land. The soil up to this point had been extremely patchy ; for several hundred yards the conch, hud rolled smoothly across rich, black loam, and then churned up a white, clayey stuff, this process having been repeated at intervals of longer or less duration. Tho settlement of Poroti was entered shortly prior to noon, and the Premier met a few representatives of the Uriroroi, a eet ot intelligent muscular men. A chief named .Hira Te Taka greeted the Premier with the usual salutations, and explained that a meeting had been arranged for tho afternoon. The notice of tho visit had been very short, but a good gathering wa3 expected. This hapu numbers some 108 natives, who own over 50,000 acres of grand land, at present wasting all its substance in the propagation of lern, ti-treo, bush, aiK.l a miscellaneous assortment of weeds. The village ditlers from tho ordinary style, inasmuch that the habitations are of sawn kauri timber, constructor! after the European plan. A small cluster of houses is to bo found at Poroti, but the natives are scattered all over the country, and it was owing to this fact that the party of welcome was so meagre. There is one block of land containing 14,000 acres being surveyed, but the title has not yet been obtained. As several hours were to intervene before business it was decided to pay a visit to THE WAIRAU FALLS, a natural wonder very little known outside the immediate vicinity. This is all the more surprising when it is considered that the falls rank among the largest in New Zealand so far as volume of water is concerned. The road was a repitition of the latter part of the journey to Poroti, only if anything much rougher. We were with the gumdigger all the time. Several whares, the only indication of whose presence was the small line of bluish-groy smoke ascending from the centre of titree clumps were noted along the track, and whenever the occupants were nonr n hearty " good day " | was exchanged. The last three-quarters of «; milo to tho water was a case of cramp, and soon, as we followed the track through thohigh ecrub.adull. sullenroar began to be distinctly hoard. Suddenly, and without any warning save the noise of falling water, a most mngniticent Bcene burst into view, and wo gazed in rapture on a great sheet of water, churned and angry, descending in white feathery spray to the masses of rock some 80 feet below. Tho sheet must be nearly 200 feet broad, and when we saw it the volume of water had greatly diminished. In winter our guides told us the river ia always flooded, and the commotion i 3 truly terrific. The edge of tho precipice projects ovor the base, and through the sheeb-fallipg liquid can bo discerned v. profusion of beautiful ferns, which add an indescribable tint and charm to the scene. From the falls the river continues a broken course, resembling very much a scries of small rapids. Adjacent to the falls and hid amongst tho densegrowth of superb bush are immense blocks of limestone and several large caves, which were once the native burial places. The remains of old-time warriors etill lie there in great numbers, but it is said the recesses have been pillaged of everything in the shape of curio?, weapons and implements. It was a hard tussle to tear away from this entrancing spot, but business was business, arid the Maoris had to be met, so tliero wus nothing for it but to get back as quickly as possible. During the return the WAIOTOMOTOMO BLOCK was pointed our. This belongs to tho same tribe, and early in the sixties waa the scene of a great inter-tribal battle. Evidences of the old pah still remain, but it has long been deserted. It was due to the efforts of Sir George Grey that peace was restored between these belligerents. Our Grand Old Man visited the place in company with Major Yon Stunner. A peculiar story is related of To Tirau, the chief of the hapu at that time. One of his men ran amuck and killed a woman. Sir ; George Grey pointed out to tho chief that the unfortunate fellow j was not accountable for his action, and extracted a promise from Te Tirau that blood would not be spilt in revenge. Immediately subsequent to the departure of Sir George the chief caused a hole to be dug, and in this the madman was securely buried up to hid neck. He provided amusement for the old women of the'puh as long as thoy wero in a humorous mood, and then his head was aIBO covered and vigorously stamped upon. That" was his end. THE PREMIER HANDLK3 THE SPADE. While retracing our steps an incident occurred which was thoroughly characteristic of the Hon. ft. J. Seddon. Crowing a piece of swamp land, iv solitary gumcJigger was met, armed with spear and spade, and with a collecting sack slung across his shoulders. Mr Keddon did not content himself with merely wishing tho toiler "good day," but dismounting, shook hands with the man and made enquiries as to his luck. The diggor was a typical specimen of his kind, intelligent, straightforward and thoroughly good natured. He was relieved of his tocle, and the Premier was soon busily engaged spearing arid turning up the iich black swamp soil. These exertions wore continued for five or ten minutes, but only a few ppecs of gum were collected. The digger remarked that luck varied greatly, and snid it was a hard task to make a living just then. As time pressed, this nobleman of nature, who was immensely pleaded at the Premier's geniality an,d kindly interest and who said he would never forget the day, was left to pursue his weary labours and the party returned to the hotel. Alter luncheon a REPRESENTATION OF THE GUMDIGGEBS of the locality interviewed the Premier on the burning topic. It may be as well to state here that this field is leased from the Maoris by MrS. Rownsloy, who employe over 100 diggers. The field is one of the best in the country, and the diggers are a

happy family, working for one of the most generous and considerate buyers in the colony. The deputation consisted of intelligent hardworking men who, although buried in an out-of-the-way part of the country, were evidently cognisant of all that was passing in the outside world. The proceedings ab the meeting have already been published, and it would be mere recapitulation to give a report of the interview here. The requests were very similar to those put forth at> the other centres and the Premier's scheme for settling the diggers on the land was also propounded. This was very favourably received. Several councillors interviewed the Premier in connection with local requirements, and the party then walked over to the NATIVE SETTLEMENT where a goodly number of the tribe had collected by this time. Tho proceedings took place in the meeting house, in which the Premier occupied the position of honour ab the end of the building. The Hon. J. Carroll acted as interpreter. The natives, comprising men and women, were squatted in a semicircle, facing Mr tieddon, and all the children of the settlement were glued to the windows and door cracks, watching the deliberations of the pakeha and Maori with an all-absorbing interest. «Tho natives, although numerically weak, were very influential and large owners of land. In response to the Premier's invitation to state their grievances, several of those present made statements. The first to speak was one of those natives who have endeavoured by every means in their power to foster and further the estrangement and, misunderstanding existing between the Maoris and the Government. He had travelled up from the Eaat Coast to object in 1010 to the Native Land Purchase and Acquisition Act. He did not know why be objected, but ho did. The others also objected, but admitted that they were entirely ignorant of the measure and ita provisions. The Bill was fully explained by Mr Weddon, who also promised, in reply to a request, that the Native Land Court should go to Poroti to investigate the blocks of land now being surveyed. One or two other local matters were dealt with in .i manner satisfactory to tho native?. T,he party ihen returned to the brake, en route to Whangarei, and on leaving Poroti the cunidiggeni gave throe hearty 'cheers to Mr Seddon and his Government. They were evidently very grateful to the honorable gentleman for the trouble he had undergone to visit thorn und endeavour to better their condition. As the anxiety with regard to accidents had subsided, tho drive back in the moonlight was extremely enjoyable. The peaceful valley and quiet bush enveloped in the glimmering silver rays, lay in calm repose on every aide, the intenso stillness being occasionally dis- | turbed by tho towing of cattle and crying of night birds. In the distance, where lund was being cleared, several bush fires relieved the landscape and gave an added charm to THE ENCHANTING SCENE. For miles this soft picture soothed the feeling?, and made one think life wao wortli living after till. Then the evidencos ot civilisation, imperceptibly at tirat, changed 1 the aspect and thoughts, and the transformation was completed on arrival at, Whangarei, whore the residents had mode ready a banquet to do honour to the Premier and his colleague, the Hon. J. Carroll. Tliero waa a good representation of townsfolk present, and the proceedings nevor lacked animation. The usual toasts were honoured, those of "The Guests" and " Tho Government " being enthusiastically received. The Premier, in responding, dwelt on the policy' of the Government and the objects of his tour, • and Mr Carroll also spoke, referring in his remarks to tbe native difficulty which, ho said, was not to be allowed to remain in its present stato much longer. The Government had determined to legislate in this direction, but Of course it would bo premature to aav just then in what precise form thoy intended to net. The gathering broke up close, upon midnight, With bhe general singing of " Auld Lang Syne." In the morning the Premier was seen by a patriarchal chief namod Taurau, who wished the Government to havo the Whatifcii block, which is now being surveyed, investigated by the Native Lund Court. He wanted the land settled by the Court before he died, and was promised this would be done as soon as the surveys were completed. It eeemed there was* to be no rest for the travellers, and eooti after tho morning repast—as soon iio fact as tho honourable tho Premier could ! satisfy the demands of interviower.s, whose numbers were legion—a start was made for TVIE INTERIOR PROPER. A special train was in attendance to run over the Hikurangi railway extension, now rapidly nearing completion. One brief stoppage was made to enable Mr Dobbie's little children to present Mr Soddon with a basket of fine oranges, tastefully arranged among the foliage of the tree, and a lovely bouquet. Needless to say this gift, appropriate of tho neighbourhood, was. highly appreciated by the recipient. On sampling, tho oranges were found vto be really excellent and very luscious, despite the fact that the season had concluded some time previously. Several small coal pits wero passed, and tho train then entered into another region of loveliness, stretches of virgin bush alternating with long reachea of fern covered hills, and the contour of tho country continually undergoing changes. The land in every stnge—clothed in native verdure, partially subdued, and completely cultivated—could be observed during this journey, which drew to an end as Hikurangi was apI proached. Small clearings and diminutive cottages gave warning of the vicinity of a i settlement, but the train continued its course past Hikurmgi, an exceedingly PROSPEROUS LITTLE VILLAGE, laid out in the valley. The passengers on this occasion were the first to pass over the line, and no stoppage was made, in order that tho distinguished visitors might, proceed'bo the termination of tho rails, whore a gang of workmen were discovered bu.-ily employed laying down hidings and putting on tho finishing touches to that already in position. This line taps a vast extent of coal laud and valuable kauri forest. At present it only reaches the extreme edge of a country rich almost beyond conception in natural wealth. At this spot, and within ptone's throw of the line, wo were privileged to witness some very UNIQUE PUKNOMBNA. The country here, it should be mentioned, is full of lime deposits, and great masses of stona ate everywhere en evidence. Well, by some mysterious agency, enormous blocks of this substance, symmetrical and neatly squared its though a sniull army of masons had been labouring at them, stand , one on another to a considerable height, forming a solid tower, and in every case with n large puriri or kahikatea tree rearing heavenward ri>_rht from the centre. Perhaps in a couple of instances I the trunks of tbo fore-t gianta havo subdivided, and closely embracing the lime-stone, hav6 entered into each other once more at tho iop and continued their upward growth a.B solid trees These curiosities of Nature's providing almost beggar description, and require to be seen to be appreciated and understood. The train then retraced its way to the township, and an adjournment was made to Rolleston's Hotel, where business was at once proceeded with. A large body of ; SETTLERS AND GIIMDIGGERS was present and extended a hearty welcome to the Premier, who gave audience to the deputations in the billiard room. This < was quickly tilled with able-bodied men, all evidently hard workers and not too

abundantly possessed of this world's goods. Iv was also manifest that they were there with a purpose and not for fche mere sake, of being present. The settlers interviewed the Premier on local matters, and the gumdiggers' business was almdsb identical to that of the previous day. One suggestion was made by a digger to the effect that the Government in settling diggers on the land, should reserve a piece of gum country exclusively for these settlers. This woqld keep the field from ever being flooded, and would enable the settlers to make a tittle capital when required. Mr Seddon thought this idea was worth consideration although ib received scanty consideration at the hands of his fellow-diggers. The wants of the inner man having once more been satisfied, Mr Seddon and party bade farewell to Hikurangi, amidst ringing cheers from the settlers and gumdiggers. The conveyance that did duty on the previous day was again utilised, but it proved rather unwieldy and cumbersome. We were traversing the main trunk road of tbe I North Island, and to use a mild expression, its CONDITION WAS DEPLORABLE. , Our experience to Poroti had been bad enough in all conscience, but this trip was destined to be worse, very much worse. A slight hill was first ascended and then the coach travelled through several miles of swamp, which was encompassed as tar as the eye could reach by bush-covered ranges. Even ab this early stage of the journey ruts and cavities drew attention to their existence in tho most forcible manner, tossing one about in very conceivable and inconceivable direction, and causing our staid equipage to cavort and frisk to an unbecoming and painful degree. The surrounding high land gradually converged, and we wero soon carefully picking our way through valleys and alone mountain sides in the midst of dense bush. Great boulders were strewn over the track at regular intervals and always at places where ruts wero absent, and when both these failed, wooden culverts and bridges, rising perpendicularly from the road to a height of a toot or more, served to remind us of the joys of a settler's life in that particular locality. In crossing a culvert or bridge, tho horses unconcernedly banged the front wheels against the wooden wall, then pulled altogether and surmounted the obstruction, walked to the other side, stepped down and quietly waited while the attachment behind fell with an AWFUL THUMP on to the road boyond. This exhilarating experience became frequent, then fumiliar, and finally monotonous, before the drive ended, and set one speculating if any portion of the body would possibly escape dislocation. Bub this was not the only diversion. In one or , two hollows the wheels actually disappeared up to the axle even at that time of the year, und our jehu entertained us with reminiscences of his experiences in the winter months. At one spot his horse had had to swim, while the driver and passengers climbed to the uppermost seat, and prayed that the wheels would not wander from the road into the adjacent swamp land. Again a piece of ground some chains from tbe road would be scanned with interest, because it was there some unfortunate horseman discovered himself, after an ineffectual attempt to guido his steed through the waste of muddy waters. In the bush the land seemed good enough, but once clear of timber the country looked very barren and desolate. A settler's home with a small cleared plot was met with now and again, but habitations were very sparse. Fern and ti-tree scrub, alternated with luxuriant bush growth, and occasionally large clumps of kahiuatoa would be encountered, keeping the interest ever sustained. At Hukuranui a short stoppage wna made for refreshments, and we loft considerably enlivened by the intelligence tliut several culverts were perforated with huge holes, and an accom- [ panvintf admonition to the driver to be very caroful. Once more tho road lay over mountain ranges, at times winding ulong the edge of a STKEP TIMBERBD PRECIPICE. Some stately kauris were pasaeu on the j upper land, but forest quickly disappeared wi-.oii the descent began. Another tract of uninviting country met the gaze, and continuod to Towai, where the Premier was interviewed with regard ,to some local mat tors. There were about a dozen houses at this place, and in oither direction the road was in aa dilapidated a condition as was possible Yet ab tho settlement was a carefully laid-out racecourse, with miniature grandstand, judge's box and saddling paudock. The anomaly was startling, and could not escape notice. Kawakawa was not very distant now, and soon was passed a cleared knoll, which was the scene of the famous Ruapekapeka fight during the Hone Heke war. A couple of the guns still lie embedded at the place, and there are also the remains of the old pah. The shades of night wero rapidly enveloping the road and country by this time, and the uneven state of the track rendered a walking pace imperative. Very little persuasion was required to induce the I horses to adopt this rate of speed, and the drive at onco began to get tedious, in the extreme. The driver was also a cautious man, and, when informed that the coach might arrive at its destination belore morning, but not possibly prior to midnight, sagely remarked, "It is slow, but sure. I don't care how long I take, provided I get there.'' We said no more after that, but fervently hoped thub the vehicle would not develop a propensity to pick out the deepest ruts or skate down the mountain sides. Once bhe coach VIOLENTLY CANTED to an angle of forty-five degrees from the perpendicular, and its devoted freight thought, bhe end had come. The driver was calmly assuring, but after getting his charge out of the dangerous predicament, admitted that ho thought " she was going." Sli© did go, but at something slower than the proverbial snail's pace, and thankful indeed were thepussong'.-ns when the native settlement at Waiomio was reached. This lies three miles outside of Kuwakawn, and as it was late, the Premier, through the Hon. J. Carroll, informed the Maoris that he would come out and hold a meeting (lie following forenoon. The party then pushed on, arriving at. Mr Stewart's Hotel about 8 o'clock. MrR. M. Houston, M.H.R. for Buy of Inlands, was present to welcome tho Premier and bis colleague, who immediately proceeded to S Lew art's Hall, where a banquet had been prepared in honour of the visit. Over tifty residents attended, and the proceedings were characterised by the greatest good feeling and cordiality. Considering the brief notice given Mr Stewart bad accomplished wondersin providinggoodthingsand making tho table attractive and, as the honourable gue^t; said, it such excellent results attended a short notice it would be impossible to imagine what kind of a feast would follow an extended intimation. The healths of the Hons. R. J. Seddon and J. Carroll were toasted with great enthusiasm, and " The "Government " was also wurmly received. Mr Seddon, in responding, relerred to the objects of the tour and alfco gave a concise outline of the Government policy. Mr Carroll also replied in very felicitous termp, both speeches being loudly applauded. Several vocal selections were admirably rendered, bhe Premier contributing to the enjoyment with a capibal song. The gathering continued to an early hour in the morning, and the Kawakawa people left quite charmed by the geniality of the first man in the land. A "CONTENTED PEOPLE." Very fe.v hours wero devoted to plumber, and a start was made for Waiomio to meet the natives as arranged on the previous evening. Accompanying the Premier were

Messrs R^ M. Honeton, M.H.R., J. S. Glendon, 5.M.,. and Gougb, native interpreter. A short' drive brought the settlement into sight, and as the carriages rounded the bend in the h,ills.the native powbiri of welcome rose in wailing accents from a group of aged women, who could be seen in tho distance gesticulating and waving the visitors on. The' meeting toj>k place in a tine large ball, and the Premier and guests were accommodated with chairs at the end of the building. An. aisle was partitioned ofl, and on either side reclined the natives to the number of fifty, all following the business with the keenest interest. Among those present were some very old Maoris, with tine intelligent-looking countenances despite the close network of tattoo marks. These men were all warriors who had participated in the battles of the Hone Heke war, and had responded to the war cry in many a h'erce tight. The natives belonged to the Ngatihiui, a sub-tribe of the Ngapuhis. The Premier opened the proceedings by stating he would bo willing to Jiston to any grievances as be wished to ascertain the native mind. This invitation was not accepted with such readiness as might have been expected. Two chiefs, Wireinu Pomare and Marsh Brown, expressed great pleasure at the visit of the Premier and the fion. J. Carroll, but intimated that they had nothing to pay. They invited the Premier to attend a large meeting which was to be held at Gisborne shortly, and at which representatives of every tribe would take part. Mr Seddon was very pleased and delighted to find the natives so satisfied with their/lot that they bad nothing to say but words of welcome. They must be a contented people because if they did nob complain they must be a WELL SATISFIKD AND HAPPY COMMUNITY. During this tour ho had held many meetings, but they were the firet to assure him (the Premier) that there were no grievances to be ventilated, Mr Seddon urged them to state their complaints, as they could get no redress other than through Parliament. Outside meetings would be no good, and if they hoped to jjec relief that way they would be relying on a broken reed. The Hon. J. Carroll rpnko in a similar strain, good naturedly chaffing the natives on the total absence of grievances. To nee a vulgar expression, this " fetched " the members of the Ngatihiuis. Wiremu Pomare said the Government was well aware of their grievances. The native land laws were too stringent, they wanted something more simple and less involved. The dog tax was also pressing heavily upon them. " They would discuss the various matters later on, and submit their complaints in writing. The Premier promised to give them careful consideration, and the meeting then terminated. On returning to Kawakawa no time was lost, and the Premier was soon en route to WAIMATE where more natives were to be met. This settlement lies in an opposite direction to Whangarei, and once outside the township tho difference in the roads was very remarkable. We were bowling on a fine hard surface, perfectly even with the bridge and culverts in excellent order. This state of affairs was beyond comprehension until some gentle inquiries elicited the significant fact that ail the County Councillors lived about that part of the country. All the mystory vanished after this explanation and attention was directed to the view. The übiquitous mountain range bounded the vision on the left, being intersectod with numerous ravines, in which dark green pungas grew in profusion. Awny on the other side stretched good valley country. The rauge at last crossed the untfi and had to be surmounted. Scrubby land with occasional kahikatea patches followed until a sudden bend, like the turn of a kaleidoscope revealed » beautiful transformation. Away at our fees lay tho grand . • ESTATE OF PAKOKAKA, the home of the Messrs Williams. Fine grassy paddocks, dotted with hundreds of sheop, a large residence cosily nestling in a clump of familiar English trees presented a pleasing contrast to the dreary waste. The property is chiefly composed of rich 6oil and through this we sped for several miles. The country was more or less cultivated after this, aud along the road many evidences of former Maori*occupation were visible. Hills, terraced and surrounded by earthen ramparts, wore all that remained to bear record of the stirring times of days long past, and of the ingenuity and capabilities of th 6 Maoris when tho spade was an unknown implement in the land. On arrival at the Courthouse at Waimate, no natives were to be found, the notice ot the intended visit having evidently been too short. It had also rained heavily during the morning, and the native?, not Knowing the Hon. R. J. Seddon, had probably thought tha inolemency would deter him. Turning back, however, several Maoris were met on horseback, and an adjournment was made to Spencer's Hotei, some two miles distant, where luncheon was served. Some dozen natives were present, and they spoke to the Premier on personal matters of grievance only, reserving their most important subjects for tho big meeting at Waima on the next day. They one and all welcomed' tlie Premier, expressing great pleasure at having him amongst them. Mr Seddon listened to their longthy explanations and grievances, and then requested that they should be put in writing, so as to receive careful attention. This the natives promised to do, well satisfied with the result of the proceedings. They were then addressed by the Hon. J. Carroll in their own tongue, and dispersed after a friendly handshake all round. A return was made to Kawakawa, and preparations completed for v long journey to Taheke on the morrow. Sunday, tho day usually associated in ino»t minds with quiet repose, was not (o bo one of rest for the Premier, and coon alter breakfast the party started on THK FORTY MTU! DRIVE in two conveyances, accompanied by Mr J. S. Clondon, S.M. Tho route was the Mine as on the previous day for the first fifteen miles, and then branched of} towanls Ohaewai. On npproacliirig Pakaraka we were, joined by a very ancient, though pleapant, old Mnori, on a staunch black pony. This was Wiripiri Hongo, one of Hone Heke's principal fighting men, who at 75 years of axe was starting on a,fifty mile ride, beeides having 24 hour* previously traversed over ten leagues*. This venerable warrior bad had «ome stirring experiences. He belonged to the Arawa tribe in the Waikot.o, but when a boy was taken by the Ngopuhic>, with whom he advanced to manhot.d. His prowess at warfare soon became conspicuous, and he acted in the capacity of drill instructor. He was prominently engaged in all the big battles of the Hone Heko war, taking a leading part at Ruapekapekn, Ohaewai, Kororareka, and several other skirmishes. The fine old fellow fought some of his battles over again,' telling us how at Ohaewai 122 British sailors were mowed down in ten minute.?, while attempting to invade the pah by chaierinfr. The Maoris were securely entrenched in earthen pitp, removed from all dfiistrer of ehot ami shell, and had every opportunity to indulge in sharp shooting. This foolish mistaka in trying to dislodge the natives so well protected, resulted in AWFUL SLACGHTEP. to the European forces. The Maoris lost 9 men, and the death roll throughout the whole of the war was only sixty-seven. It may be remembered that a considerable amount of controversy took place over an incident which occurred at Ohaewai. It has been asserted by many that a seaman captured during the tight was subsequently burnt alive in order to propitiate the Jfeathin f&dr* On being questioned, our

battered companion said he did nob remember such an acb of barbarism, but admitted that portions of the body of a'dead officer were cut off and burnt in the celebrating of some incantations. Another native, who as a young man had been deputed to collect the dead after the fight, told us that the sailor had not been tortured alive. The grueeonie story arose through the remain^ of the unfortunate fellow having been used as an illumination to enable the natives to work at night. They discovered the body and piled kauri gum on the top, thas going through the process of cremation. Many ACTS OF HEATHENISM were perpetrated, however, and it was chiefly owing to this reversion to superstition that Hone Heke abandoned the fight. At the commencement of the war he had emphatically stated that Christianity was to be strictly adhered to, and the many backslidings thoroughly disheartened and" discouraged him, and eventually caused him to wash his hands o£ the whole affair. In passing through the district a stop was made to inspect the scene of the great light. A church ia now erected on the spot, but much of the original palisading is still standing. The pah was 200 to 300 yards square, and otlered an impenetrable rotreat. MrClendon, who as a boy watched the attack from some scrub, pointed out the positions of the troops and guns, and how the shots and shell passed right over the pah without doing any damage to the inmates. Hone Heke was lying inland, wounded at that time, and on the second night following the battle the natives evacuated the pah and proceeded into the interior. The native preacher showed us a portion of one of the six pounders. It was left by the Europeans, and when discovered by the Maoris was filled up with powder and pebbles and burst. After dinner at Ohaewai, the journey was continued through great tracts of native lands. Kiiikohe, a thriving settlement, was quickly parsed, and in the valley we saw thousands of acres of first-class laud. This is said to be as good as any in the colony, and is 3till uncultivated. The road after this began to jolr, and threaten destruction to the vehicles, afc places beingl strewn with great masses of rock. It led into another valley, through which ran one of the streams emptying into the Hokianga Harbour. Taheko was reached about four o'clock and a stop was made there for the night. The Maoris' horses, which were to convey the party to Oinaoere, arrived shortly after, and the little piace was soon labouring under quite an unusual amount of excitement. A start wa3 made early on the next morning, the horses travelling over a road that was impassable for wheeled traffic. By the time the head of the valley leading to the settlement at Waima waa in the near vicinity, the party had swollen into an im- . posing and riCTURESQUE CAVALCADE. Warning of the Premier's approach had been sent ahead, and soon the powhiri came floating through the valley. Numerous camp fires betokened extensive preparations, and men, women and children were to be seen in great numbers. On dismounting, every native person, to the number of nearly two hundred, formed in the two sides of a square and were each shaken by the hand. This duty performed all adjourned to the large meeting-house. The gathering there was in every way satisfactory, and waa the largest and most representative addressed by the Premier since leaving Wellington. The chiefs of every tribe in the North were present, the two principal hapus being the Ngapuhis and To Ilarawa. The initial proceedings were of a very impressive character, and showed how much importance the natives attached to the korero. Ke Tetai, the greatest chief of the Te Rarawa tribe, welcomed the Premier and tho Hon. J. Carroll in very poetical metaphor, concluding with a song of welcome. Then was revived one of the ancient incantations, which was sung with tremendous vigour by the older men, and was accompanied by a steady stamp. Ib was a soulstirring- performance, holding one spellbound. Words of welcome were spoken by all the leading chiefs, who one and all EXPRESSED GREAT DELIGHT at the presence of the Premier. The Hon. 11. J. Seddon then delivered a very able and forcible speech, which visibly affected his auditors and which elicited frequent applause. Not a word that fell from the Premier's lips was lost, and subsequent events showed that careful note had been taken of ail that had been said. An adjonrntnent was then made to a large whare, where a splendid dinner was provided. Over a hundred eat down to a feast that spoke volumes for the culinary abilities of the wahines of the pah, and indeed the feast came as a surprise to all the Europeans. An added pleasure was given to the report by the singing of several young fellows, who rendered several familiar old tunes. There were voices of great promise among the group, and all blended in perfectharmony and time and with indescribable effect. Bursts of applause rose from the astonished pakehas after each contribution, and needless to say encores t7ere absolutely insisted upon. Business seemed very dry and dull after this unique entertainment and it lasted all the afternoon and right; into the evening. After ascertaining that the Nativ9 Land Purchase and Acquisition Bill had become law one native rose to his feet with a screed of qnestions covering several quireu of foolscap. The Premier's replies to the first half dozen questions were so satisfactory and effective that the I remainder were abandoned. Several other matters, including the dog tax, were settled to mutual satisfaction, and lie Tetai then intimated that after serious deliberation the natives intended TO DRAFT "A BILL which would be submitted to Parliament through their member. Hone Heke. Ho asked the Premier, and the Hon. J. Carroll to agree to sanction the measure. The Premier explained . that tho Bill would be presented to Parliament, and if good and wise would be accepted and become law, but it evil would bo rejected. Several questions of land disputes vere discussed, and the natives promised to put their grievances in writing and forward them to Wellington, where the Premier promised they would receive careful consideration. In his address the Premier announced very plainly that the Government was determined that settlement should no longer be blocked by the native land difficulty, and he urged the natives to have tho titles ascertained and the land surveyed. The party again partook of the hospitality of the Maoris, and the proceedings then took the form of a musical evening. The gathering was one that would probably never occur in a lifetime again, and it was brought to a conclusion by the combined nintring of " Auld Lang Syne " and the National Anthem. We had been royally entertained, and the natives only regretted that the Premier could not stop over night at the settlement. At nine o'clock everybody was in the saddle, and a sixteen-mile ride in the moonlight brought us to RAWENE at midnight. During the short stay, and before embarking on the river steamer Te Aroha, a craft formerly we'll known on the Waitemata, a deputation of tho pettlers of the district waited on the Premter and petitionod his good services on behalf of the roads of the district. They thought tho honourable gentleman was cognisant of their requirements in this respect, having travelled over the roads himself. If the Government could take over the control of the roads and have,them metalled, the residents would be everlastingly grateful. Mr Seddon examined several of the balancesheets and found that the cost of administering the district waa nearly 75 ■

per cent, greater than the expenditure on the roads themselves. The discussion disclosed the fact that settlement and progress were being retorted for want of roads and the miserable condition of thbße already in existence. Some amusing features were related even in connection. , with, thia heart-rending state of affairs. One county councillor, replying to the Premier's advice to take full advantage of tut rates and the means of collecting the same* eaid they bad 0 A UNIQUE DIFFICULT! to contend with. The settler pointed oat his crop of, perhaps, pumpkins or melont and invited the collector to take his rater out in produce. He had raised the stuff off the land and could do nothing with it, and he would like the Council to try tbeir hand ab disposing it. He had no money, and if hit otter were noo acceptable, well—a shrug ot the shoulders was very expressive. Mr Seddon inquired if the Council wanted A grant for the construction of a store nous* also, but was answered in the negative. The deputation assured the Premier bhab there wore mile 3of good land which would be quickly settled'if roads were only provided. The roads they had were utterly inadequate, and were preventing thesettlement of excellent country. The assistance of the Government to improve the roads to several specified townships was asked, and the Premier said he would glean the fullest information of the subject, and see what could be placed on tho Estimates next session. One or twain in or matters were also dealt with. The party then left by the Te Aroha for the Hokianga Heads, being accorded a. hearty send-oti by the Rawene residents, who assembled on the wharf to bid them good-bye. The steam down the river towards the Heads, although very short, was extremely pleasant, and our pleasure ! was further enhanced by the hearty welcome accorded by Mr Webster on arrival ab the small jetty at Heads Point. Mr Webster, ■ who is one of the oldest settlers; in Hokianga, having been an intimate friend of tho great warrior, Taniati Waka Nene, and a participator in all the big wars that placed the lives of the hardy pioneers of civilisation in the North in tbe greatest jeopardy, has A LOVELY ESTATE in this part of the district, and ab his residence the party was very hospitably entertained. A very refreshing luncheon was discussed with groat zest, and the fruib ab. the table was an eloquent unspoken testimony of the capabilities of the country for fruit producing. Pears, grapes, figs, were* there in profusion, very luscious and matured to perfection, A stroll through the fine orchards was also greatly enjoyed. Mr Webster has several fine clumps of bananas,, and the fruic was almost as good as the. Island production. The remainder of the stay was devoted to inspecting the treasures and curios which Mr Webster in the course of his varied exciting peregrinations, has collected in great numbers. Some are very rare and valuable. We saw the cup which Her Majesty the Queen presented to Tamati Waka Hene in recognition of his services on behalf of the Europeans during the critical period or their lives, when Hone Heke was on the war path. The first p&tition ever framed , in North Auckland with the original signatures attached is in Mr Webster's keeping, and several manuscript almanacs, and shipping lists of 1840 and 1841, together with many unique and valuable documents, were spread out for our inspection. A very interesting visit was terminated early in the afternoon, and the journey THROUGH THE WILDS was resumed, the company being mounted on some very freeh steeds. The course layalong the beach for a couple of miles, past Omapere and close to the bar at the Heads, over which the surf was breaking in great} masses of white foam and with a dull, ■ thunderous roar. The crack then Jed/ across a low range of hills, fringed withi fern, ti-tree and native bush, and still skirting the coast line. The road had * tho ' usual clay surface, being rutty at places, and although affording decenb travelling at this time must be horrible for traffic in tho. winter months. The party was cantering past the native settlement of vVainiamaku, having made no arrangements to call in there, when the ringing of the schoolbell gave warning that the natives were desirous of having an audience with the Prime Minister, who was seen in that region for thefirst time in the history of the colony. The Premier was received outside by the chiefs, and an adjournment was then made to the schoolroom. The subsequent proceedings , were of a gratifying character, and showed that some of the advice tendered by Mr Seddon on previous occasions has proved acceptable. The object of the gathering was broached by Iraia Toi. Chairman of the « School Committee, who said that the tribes of the district were desirous of having THE EDUCATION EXTENDED to the sixth standard. At present, a child could not advance beyond the fourth stan- , dard at the school, and the parents would ' not send them away to Te Aute or St. Stephen's on account of the dangers of sickness and death. Mr Seddon said , he entirely approved of this plan and would discuss the matter with, the Minister of Education. The episode had afforded him much pleasure, even more than had the meeting at Waima. Mr Seddon concluded his remarks, amidst loud applause and cordial smiles. At the Premier's request, the children were marshalled, and rendered several songa very prettily. Two of the female scholars , also read passages in capital style, showing ■ how careful and efficient had been the tuition of the head-teacher, Mr Winkelmann. The children were very healthy and intelligent, and appeared to take a great interest in their studies. Some really excellent specimens sf drawing were in- ' spected by Mr Seddon, the maps being . especially good. The honourable gentleman again expressed hi« pleasure at being j presenb, and finished by exhorting the children to resolutely pursue their studies, > and attend regularly. A GLORIOUS RIDE. In the saddle once more, a sharp canfcer brought the meandering valley road to an end, and soon a sullen, continuous roar announced the surf-beaten shore to be rapidly drawing near. The outlet of the valley closely resembled' an American canon, the hilts being high and precipitous, and almost adjacent. Through this the thunder of tho waves reverberated and , rolled, making a deafening noise. _ On, emerging, a glorious scene presented itself to our enraptured gaze. Away to the left), and unbroken as far as the eye could discern, lay a magnificent stretch of sand, bounded on the landward aide by diminutive cliffs, and receding at an even grade into the wild, surging waters. Up this beach great solid walls of living liquid came charging, curling and leaping in their potency and strength, and threatening to oveiwhelm everythingwithin reach, only to be transformed into a white seething cauldron, and repaat the process ad infinitum. The moon had ascended over the ranges, and far at sea the ■ cloud-banked horizon was distinctly visible. It was a truly wonderful picture, holding one spellbound and enchanted. Along this sand, accompanied by the angry music of the waves, tho travellers rode for a couple of miles and then making a detour over a kind of sand dune, pulled up ab Messrs Jarvie Brothers' Kawerua Hotel, in full view of the vast heaving wacers of the Southern Pacific. Here the night's rest .vas much appreciated, as on the previous evenings business had ab« sorbed the greater portion of the hours u.sually devoted to slumber. A dip in the briny and

:., A ROUGH AND TUMBLE Ifrthlj gnrf, was extremely exhilarabing in . morning, and vastly revived our r languishing energies. Several gumdiggera Hi rived at! the stores to transact business before our departure, and a cbab with one revealed the fact thab men in thab localiby we re in comfortable circumstances. The majority were making between 30s and 40s pof week, although many wero holding back their gum for an improvement in the market. If & man could nob make a living be wtw, to use the expression of the informant, a " thorough loafer." Many of the Ausbrians, whose influx caiued such a stir recently, are inropfld in this part of tbe colony, being located about six miles beyond Rawerua. gome little time ago nearly eighty of theee 4110n3 were in the districb, bub now the number has lessened considerably. They live very frugally, work from daylight to dark, and return to the land of their birth at soon as a sum of money is amassed. Hone are activating the soil, bub merely extracting the gum wealth. They always frftternieo and partake of one common aiflftl- Several of the men in this districb aro climbers—they scale the giants of tho forest and gather the gum thab has exuded from the trunk and branches. A tree that baa been untouched will yield a couple jf hundredweight of the valuable comtnodity, and handsomely remunerate the jetircher for his day's labour. Such trees 1 *ro very rare now-a-days. To horse yet (gain, and tho first six miles of the journey ff«« over the unrivalled West Coasb beach. Tlio sand was perfectly level, and aroand the horsea' legs surged and roared a con- , fdsed muss of breakers. Ib was hard to leave THIS WILD SOLITARY GRANDEUR, bub the track struck inland mid ib had to be followed. Through winding scrubby country and along the mountain path we ab ltngthplunged intoa heavily timbered bush. Jusb before leaving the open land a Maori funeral cortege was passed pursuing its painful way down tho steep mountain side. The remains, which wore those of a little boy. were carried on a litter by four stalwart! fellows, and the relatives followed behind on horseback. This mornful proCession was en route from Opanake to Waimamaku—a weary tramp of thirty mile?. Ib showed tho tender respect the Maoris have for their dead. The boy belonged to Waimamaku and he was to be interred thero, the trouble and exertion being no consideration. Things wero now made somewhat uncomfortable by rain, which started to fall in thick showers. On either side of the track lay dense masses of native vegetation of every description, with hore and there GREAT KAURIS AND RATAS toworing above 4 their les3er brethren. Forns, with their delicate filagree work, fringed the path, the whole forming a picture beautiful beyond conception or description. This virgin forest stretched on either side, and it was patent to the most inexperienced eye that the soil was of exceptional quality. The erowfch was very prolific and it was an easy task to imagine this country soon thick with happy, prosperous homesteads. Nature has been bountiful indeed, and the soil is wreathed in smiles without the customary tickling by human hands. It only needs a substitution of the vegetable matter complete the transformation. A strong contrast met the vision on emerging from the region of bush. Fern and scrub once more reigned supreme although the land was atill of a dark, rich nature. A stop was made at a half-way store until the rain ceased, and here an impromptu deputation of diggers, who had also sought shelter, met the Premier. They were very anxious to know if something; could not be done to prevent the ring from depressing the.gum trade, and also to stop the influx of Austrian^ They eaid it wa3 ' very hard to make a living at present. Mr Ssddon spoke of the proposal to settle the aumdigger on the land, so that he might become a useful settler. Mr Seddon remarked that the gumdiggers had been very reckless in the past, and were now commencing to feel the effects of their improvidence. One hardy old man replied that a person working up to his waist in a swamp needed something to keep the cold out. There were very few parts of the world he was nob acquainted with, and he had tasted some very decent liquors at Homo and in foreign lands. He had never tasted whisky in New Zealand, however, and ho had been in the Auckland province for many years. He was firmly convinced that THE VILE CONCOCTIONS the diggers had to swallow emanated from the druggists' shops of Auckland. He was offered a " wee drop" of the real stuff by a member of the party, and the happy smile that overspread his countenance betokened peace, perfect peace, at last. He could die happily now, and the other diggers who sumpled wore also very eulogistic in referring to tho " mountain dew." The sky had cleared by this time and the party pushed on again. From the brow of the hill the peaceful waters of the Pacific could be discerned, and then a magnificent kauri forest wasontered. Enormous trees, rising perpendicularly to a great height, branchlers and flawlors lined the path and mountain side, and afforded endless interest. Millions of feet of valuable timber were scattered over tho country for miles round, and will remain bo for years to como/ Here and there hugo rataa intruded upon the gaze, and numerous rata vine? clutching with their deathdealing embrace the trunks of othertree3 preparatory to becoming the tree itself, ■were to be seen in all Htages of development. This VAST XAUKI FOHEST accompanied us to the head of the Kaihu Valley, which comprises some of the finest land in Now Zealand. Ib runs away inland and down bo Dargavtlle, and the rich, black soil can hurdly bo bottomed. The railway line extends to Opnnake, whero tho Premier and the Hon. J. Carroll wore welcomed by Mr Dargavillo and Mr Harding, Chairman of the County Council. Tho seventeen miles of railway which tra'Verges Ihia beautiful block of land soon came lo an end, and Dargaville, thickly dotted with honso.«, announced that bush regions, barren lands and isolated habitations had been loft behind. No 41 kai " had boon partaken of since leaving Kawerua, and the evening meal was consequently much appreciated. Immediately afterwards business was pro. EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE OF THE GUMDIOGE>:S' ■■first engaging attention. The Chairman of this representative Committee asked that the Government would employ diggers daring the present depression. He suggested time roads should be started to Crown lands, which could then bo opened for settlement. Many of the diggers were very willing to settle, and if they had the pum lands to assist them, that would serve in lieu of capital. They wanted come legislation enacted to prevent the influx of aliens and unemployed from the other colonies. The Chairman assured the Premier that the Austrians merely came to the «olony to make money. They said themselves thab they would not settle here, but meant to return to their oWn country. Ho thought a license should be issued, and only to persons who had been in the colony for twelve months. A royalty should also be pub on gum, bub the digger would be glad to be free to buy and sell where he Pleased. He complained bitterly of the truck system, which he said was .pressing cruelly on the men. One shilling and threepence of a royalty could Ro to the County Council (he eaid) *or rates to give diggers a vote as ratepayers and a 2s 3d rate could go *o form a benofib fund for the diggers. He said many men were in a state of destitution on the fields and ab present the pro•pecb for the winter looked very black in-

deed. The highest rate of wages was about <Sss a week, and ib took an able-bodied man to make that amount. ' RESERVrNG THE GUMFIELDS. Mr Seddon Baid he was considering the advisability ot opening up the land for settlement and reserving the gum lands to enable the settlers to procure some capital. (Applause.) If there was any road making that would promote settlement it was desirable that the work should be proceeded with. This would absorb a lot of labour from the gumfields. He referred to the difficulty of dealing with the alien question. Once tho men were hero we could not control their methods of gaining a livelihood. That would be unconstitutional and would involve a serious difficulty between England and foreign nations. In connection with Mr King's remarks on the gum market the Agent-General had been instructed to inquire in England, on the Continent, and in America, and to endeavour to ascertain the cause of the present low prices. Tho Government would then know how to act. (Applause.) The truck system had already been dealt with by the Government, Mr SSer!ti.ju remarked, but that carried on in connection with tho gumfields was very difficult to deal with. More agreement between employer and employee was necessary. Tho Premier said that as regards the main body of the eumdiggerß the only thing the Government ciin do, as far as ho could see at present was to put in hand the different roads for which money has been voted, and put the married men who are now on the gumtields, as far aa practicable, ab constructing these roads. Ho stated that he was communicating with the Agent-General to ascertain the value of gums in the American, British and Continental market?, and purposes purchasing samples of the different gums and sending them to him so aa. to assist him in ascertaining the Home value. This proposal greatly pleased the Executive of the Gumdiggers' Association. Tho Premier told them plainly that there is no hope of the Government purchasing the gum, and they admitted it was impracticable. In view of permanently settling the people in the vicinity of the gumfields, the Premier said he intended to coneult with the Minister for Lands as to throwing open more good land for settlement near the gumtields, and at the same time reserving a portion of the gum-bearing land for the exclusive use of those settlers, so thab a portion of their time would be engaged in improving their land and another portion of their time could be devoted to digging for gum which would stand to them as capital and would help them to ultimately become independent of the industry. In support of this scheme the Premier found that a large number of the settlers in the several districts he has passed through, attribute their success to having been able to go and dig for gum occasionally, and by that means pay for their Hour, sugar, and tea. The Premier said ib was evident the Government would have to consider the advisability ot resuming tho ownership of all gumlands, a statement which was received with great favour. The whole question, he promised, would bo fully considered by the Cabineb ab the conclusion of the tour. It would bo premature to say anything at present. The deputation thanked Mr Seddon with acclamation, and wished him every success, and long life to the Government. The Chairman of the County Council then saw the Premier in regard to several local matters. He urged the construction of a road to open tho two blocks of land lying Maunganui Bluff, and the Kaihu Valley, now owned by the Crown. This was. .the BKST LAND IN TUB COLONY and suitnblo for small settlements, and would be eagerly taken up if placed on the market. A gum of £2,000 has already been voted by the Government, bub this was a mere drop in the bucket. It was explained that some 11 miles of road had already been made, and Mr Seddon said that land held by the Government and suitable for settlement would be opened up at the earliest opportunity. Mr Mueller corroborated the Chairman's statement thab the block comprised some of the finest land in the colony. Business was not concluded until eleven D.m., and then the party—accompanied by Mr ft. Thompson, M.H.R., who rode over from Whangarei—embarked on the steamer Durham for Pahi. The vessel sailed down the Wairoo River, one of the largest in New Zealand and navigable for nearly 100 miles, past Aratapu, where several vessels were loading, and into the Kaipara Harbour, where the ocean swell soon made its prosenco felt. ■Ib was just about davlighb when the Durham rounded the sandbank which runs to opposite the Signal Station, and once more started to thread its way inland in a nor'-east direction. This estuary h deep and wide and with the others in the vicinity abounds in mullet and fish of every species. The rising sun tinged the cliffs with gold, and up the channel the scene was much prettier than is uaual with tidal rivers. Tho vessel made fast to the I PAHT .TF.TTY opposite the timber mil!, and during tho forenoon tho travellers strolled and pulled about, visiting the district. Intelligence had arrived that settlers from Matakohe and the neighbourhood were coming down in a launch, and early in the afternoon they had. an audience with the Hon. Mr Seddon in the hotel. The matters touched on were all purely local attain-. Tho Paparoa oettlei-8 drew the Premier's attention to a vote that had been passed for a road between Paparoa and VVaikeke. They knew £350 had been past-ed, bur. could never get if. and a contract which had been accepted could not be proceeded with. The vote, if not availed j of lapsed ab the end of March, and they vrere very anxious. The Premier pointed out that' when the Government had borrowed capital, the money was sriven immediately after its appropriation, but now they had to wait until the revenue came to hand He assured the settlers that the vote would not lapse, and was heart ly thanked for this good news. 1 hey also wished that a policeman might be appointed to tho district, as SIIKEI' STEALING was very rife, and the settlers were utterly j powerless to cope with the nui?ance. Mr Seddon promised to bring the matter under the notico of the proper department, and see what could be done in the direction desired. The deputation also pointed out the excessive railway freights. The steamer proprietors were prepared to make a reduction if the railways would do likewise. Not half of the traffic of the district went by the Helonsvillo railway on account ot the high rates. Ib was diverted to the EasbCoasb steamers. Mr Seddon pointed oub that the Railway Commissioners, would be up in that direction shortly, and he advised the settlers to interview and discuss the question with them. He quite agreed himself that the rates were too high, and he would make stroner recommendations to the Commissioners on the subject. (Applause.) The Premier and tbe Hon. Carroll were entertained ab dinner by the settlers, who also gave che party a hearty gend-off when the steamer left for Curtis Point. A Btay was made en route to visit the canning establishment of Messrs Masefield Bros., and the Durham arrived at her destination early in the afternoon. Horses were waiting to convey the party to MAUNGATOROTO, some six miles disbanb, wbere the County Council and a large representation of the settlers of the districb were waiting to receive the Prime Minister. All extended a hearty welcdme, and the Premier, after a I

refreshing meal, received deputations. The Council, in reference to the road from the East to West Coaat, asked for a grant of £500 to complete the work, and Mr Seddon promised to inquire and see what could be done. A voteof £650 had been passed, continued the Council for the PaparoaWaikeke Road, but the sum of £350 had never been received. Some contracts were being delayed pending some information of this money. Mr Keddon said he would pub the matter before the department when he got to Wellington, but in the meantime he assured them the vote would not lapse. He explained how the Government had to wait until the revenue came to hand. The interviewers heartily thanked the Premier for his kindly assurances, and again expressed the greatest pleasure at seeing him in the district. A SBCCESSFtJL SETTLER. In the cool of early morning the Hon. R. J. Seddon rode over to the estate of Mr Ford, and was shown over the beautiful farm by thab gentleman. It consists of fine land, undulating, well-watered and tapped by the Otamatea River, a stream navigable at high tide to opposite the place in question. Some four year 3 ago these 2,000 to 3,000 acres of land were chiefly underbush, and had absorbed a very large amount of capital, the failures of the previous holders, in foot, -having made everybody else in the vicinity sceptical of 'the place ever becoming a thriving, remun-: erativs homestead. But the application of labour and co-operation has been attended with totally different results. About four years ago Mr Ford took over the place, being assisted in his exertions by relatives only, the obligations binding the one to the other being of a moral nature only. Now the land is almost cleared, under grass and supporting the first flock of sheep north of Auckland. The few hundred sheep at Mr Ford's arrival have multiplied six-fold, and a healthy stock of cattle is also steadily increasing. The property has been cleared and grassed, fences, and stockyards, pens, and shearing sheds, have been erected, the live stock has been fostered, indeed, everything in this record of success has been the result of the exclusive labours of the Ford family. Once on the water the run to Port Albert was quickly accomplished, and the settlers were mustered in force to welcome their distinguished visitor. The Premier and party visited the cricket ground and watched the match for some time, and then proceeded on to Wellsford. where the magnificont vineries of Messrs Levet and Sons were inspected. In the evening the Premier received deputations in the public hall, the building being crowded. Mr Shepherd, President of the Agricultural Society, drew attention to the railway freights, which he thought could be reduced, not only in the interests of the settlers, but of the railway revenue. The charges , WERE SO EXCKSSIVE that fruit could not be sent down to Auckland, but was allowed to waste in the district. He thought the Government should influence the Railway Commissioners to reduce the freight by 25 per cent. Mr Seddon quite agreed that the charges were too high, not only for fruit, but for timber and other products (hear, hear.) He believed that if the timber freights were reduced it would bo a great relief to the producers, and would mean full trucks instead of empty ones (applause.) The railways had been constructed to promote settlement, and he advised the settlers to interview tho Commissioners when they sat at He'.ensville. Ho would make very strong recommendations to tho Commissioners on the subject, and ho hoped the timo would not be far distant when a member ot tho Ministry would bo able to speak and act directly' for the people. (Applause.) Mr T. A. Gubb uri/ed that fruitgrowers should have somo PROTECTION FROM FOREIGN PESTS and insect?. He suggested that all fruit trees and fruits should ba quarantined and examined by an inspector before being allowed ashore. The Premier thought himself that strict scrutiny should take place and every endeavour made to prevent the introduction of pesls. Tho Agricultural Department was going into the question and he would nsk the Minister tor Agriculture to take effective steps to prevent the introduction of pests. (Applause.) LOCAL QUESTIONS. The Chairman of tho County Council, Mr Gubb, complained of the cost of the licensing election and the Premier concurred with this idea. He would try and have a vote put on the Estimates to meet the cuse. The Council were also in the fog respecting the disposal of some votes for road-making purposes, and the Premier explained matters very clearly and satisfactorily. After the interviews had concluded, the Chairman said tho settlers were very grateful for tho visit of the Prime Minister, and he hoartily thanked him for tho lucid manner in which questions had been explained. As a robulD of the interview his sentiments had considerably changed, and he called for three cheers, which invitation was heartily responded to. The night was spent at Port Albert, and as soon as tho fog lifted oil the river, the steamer got underweigh for Helensville, which was reached shortly after noon. The Premier was shortly waited on by tho WAITEMATA COUNTY COUNCIL, headed by Captain McMahon, Chairman. Tho latter said that, v they had borrowed £1,000 at 6 pot cent, with a 4 per cent, sinking fund, and they wanted to know if they could havo I the'loan altered under the present Loans for Local Bodies Act, paying 5 jjer cent. for.*26 years. The Premier said ho would fully i into the matter and tee what courtte could be taken. In connection with a vote made ■ last session for the Wainui and KaukapakapA Road, this amount had been found insufficient and they asked whether the Government would grant further assistance?. It had cost them £650 to acquire tho road alone. Mr Seddon promi-ed to look into tho matter and he would endeavour to do all that wo.B possible. RAILWAY FREIGHTS. Mr Reynold? ppoko on tlio high charges for timber freights on the railways. The raiiway management so far had been very unsatisfactory, and the freights wero altogether prohibitive. Mr McLeod referred to tho charges on firewood. The rate was , 2Q< 4d a truck, and he maintained it ought;; not to be above 15s. If the freights on tirowood were reduced small settlers would clear the land and forward their h'rewood to town, and this" would eventually leud to an increase in tho population of the district. . Mr Seddon eaid the whole question was one of tariff, and, aa he had said before, he did not believe that the tariff should be so high and be the means of strangling local industries. In his opinion too much timber was burned which might have been brought to town and turned into capital. (Applause.) Timber was shut out from the market by high tariffs, and 60 was the coal. That 120,000 tons of coal were imported into a colony teeming with this article seemed to him to be absolutely monstrous. (Applause.) He hoped these things would soon be rectified. Ihe Commissioners were coming round soon, .and he would like some representations made to them. He considered that the arguments submitted to him so far had been so convincing that a change was absolutely necessary. The hard and fast rules that applied to large towns were noj applicable to sparsely-settled districts, and should be relaxed. (Applause:) Mr McLeod thought that Mr Ronayne, one of the new Commissioners, was the right man in the right place. LOCAL GOVERNMENT!. In reply to a question by Captain MacMabon if anything could be dons in con-

necbion with charitable aid, the Premier said it brought the whole question of local government into consideration. After several large questions were settled he thought the Government would have to consider the question of local government. The present law in connection with charitable aid was very unsatisfactory and needed revising. (Applause.) He thought the present; law had killed voluntary contributions. Tho Council then heartily thanked the Premier for the kind manner in which he had discussed their grievances and his assurance of sympathy and help. In the evening the residents of Helensville did honour to the Hon. PL. J. Seddon by entertaining him at a social. Considering the short notice given the arrangements were very excellent, and about forty couple assembled. A few dances were indulged in, and all then adjourned to the supper room. The toasts of The Premier, The Hon. J. Carroll and The (Government were honoured with great enthusiasm. The remainder of the evening was devoted to muaic, and a very enjoyable gathering broke up shortly before midnight*. On Sunday afternoon the Premier and party left for Kaukapakapa to make a break on the long journey to Warkworth. Early on Monday morning saw all mounted and on the way to the East Coast. A detour was made to visit the tunnel in connection with the Kaukapakapa railway extension towards Whangarei. The Governnoenb borings bad proved altogether misleading, the tunnel, instead of being through firm ground, being for the greater part through Bofb ground, and, although the brickwork has been strengthened and an invert pub in, disastrous slips have occurred. After inspecting this work, the jonrnoy was continued, and WAKKWORTH was reached towards the evening, the road we had travelled over having been the worst encountered during the whole of tho tour. Ib was simply a succession of very steep hills. A deputation from the Rodney County Council waited on the Premier in connection with tho roads. Mr Leeds asked thab something might be done to improve the Matakana Easb Road. It would open up Crown and native lands. Ib was simply a track ab present and could not be used even by a eleigh, Since the repeal of the rating on Crown lands the Council had been losing £60 a year and they could do nothing. Air Seddon said be was satisfied himself that the roads in the district were extremely bad. So far as the Government could, with the revenue at command, they would promote and assist settlement. This broughb him to the question of local bodies nob having sufficient revenue. Ho thought the Government would have to consider the question of relieving the local bodies of some of this work or giving them more revenue. (Hear hear.) Ho believed that Crown land should be rated, as improvements of others enhanced their value. Sir Harry Atkinson had repealed the rate bub he thought its resumtion would have to bo considered. (Applause. ) CROWN LANDS. One of the Councillors asked that some 16,000 acres of Crown lands in the districb should bo thrown open, as many of the young men in tho district wero leaving for other parts of the colony to seek homes. They would prefer to temain there if l;he land was available. Mr Seddon promised that tho land would be immediately placed on tho markot, and tho doputation, after expressing their warm thanks, withdrew. THE JOTJRNRY CONCLUDED. On Tuesday a start was made from ; Wurkworth amidst the farewell cheerß of the residents, and a etay was made at '■. PiiTioi to eiiablo the' Premier to visit tho thriving little Bohemian settlement. Deputations in connection with •nine roads in the vicinity,met the Premier, who promised that tho fullest inquiries ohould be made into tho matters*. They a3ked for assistance to repair a couple of bridges, and 'the Premier eaid he do what was possible. The drive was then continued, and after stoppages for refreshments at Waiwera and Wade, Auckland was reached in safety ab 5.30 o'clock, and ; one of the most thorough tours through che North Auckland provinco was completed.