Latest London Fashions.

Auckland Star, Volume XXII, Issue 295, 12 December 1891, Page 4 (Supplement)

Latest London Fashions.

(From Our Special Correspondent.)

London, October 26. One of the correspondents of the •' Daily Telegraph," in describing a popular cricket match, waxes amusingly sarcastic on the subject of the ladies' blind devotion to chiffon bows, one and all. Not being present ab the match, I can only take his word for it : that any old dress was apparently considered all right provided it had a "now gauze rag" at the throat, to quote his unfeeling description of the new chiffon gabots, bhe size of which he liken, to the throat decorations affected by the professional Sambo and Eonee of the Christy Minstrel ilk, and the colours without limit,.

This masculine view of the chiffon bow fever is really very little exaggerated; women will " rush at a fashion," as ho says, like a flock of sheep, without considering whether il is suitable or appropriate in any way. It is such a pity that what may be, in itself, a pretty and tasteful idea, is thus vulgarised and made ridiculous. The chiffon bows are a good instance. One of these fleecy knots at the throat in white or cream colour makes a charming finish to some gowns, notably to the Louis coats with deep collar and lappels, bub that is surely no reason why every other girl you meet should burse into a chiffon bow of any colour on any dress. Chiffon is one of the prettiest materials for millinery purposes, and can scarcely be taken exception to by the most irritated over the bow mania. Ib looks remarkably well on a large Tuscan straw hat, as in our first sketch, jusb folded round bhe crown

and terminating in two full rosette-like bows fo the right of the front, and lefb of bhe back. Pale amber looks well on a Tuscan straw ; cream colour, or salmon, on a black one. One.all-prevailing and hideous fashion of late, we mny congratulate ourselves as likely to die oub now, is Mie half length cloak and abnormally high shoulders, which has scarcely suited even the most graceful, since ib has been so exaggerated, and has rendered many short women simply funny caricatures. . -«. . Though we are hoping the chiffon bow mania will die a natural death, v/o are now embarking on another rage in place of it, which may be called the hip-frill fever, and which consists of a frill of any description, rather than be without one, sewn round the "dee of the jacket bodice. This fashion, when originated in suitable materials, chiefly lace chiffon, on eilk or muslin gowns, was a good enough and pretty one, especially to those slight and tall in figure ; but now it has become so burlesqued and vulgarised, one will have to look as much askance at the hip frill as the throat bow. I suppose most young ladies' minds are now intent on holiday-making ; a new design for a costume suitable for the seaside may therefore be useful to some of my readers. . The second illustration shows an extremely pretty and stylish one in dark navy Estamene serge and cream flannel, the skirt (which is made with broad doublebox pleats) and jacket being of the navy serge, and blouse bodice, collar, and wai-t-piece of the cream flannel. __ , The ekirb is mado into a band round the

waist, and the blouse into the waisb-piece (which, wibh the collar, has a dark blue anchor embroidered on it), coming slighbly over, and fastened with hooks on to skirt to keep in place. The jackeb is trimmed with broad cream braid, and a dark blue straw sailor hab, with cream ribbon trimming, completes the very pleasing and becoming effect. I saw a lovely cool-looking gown the obher day ab an "ab home" which I made a not 6of as being just the thing for warm weather. It was of rich figured gauze over a pale shade of green brocade. A black box pleating lined with green edged the bottom of the skirt, and the panier drapery was laced bogebher in fronb wibh a narrow gold cord. Tho bodice had a full fronb, over which the gold lacing was repeated, and the collar was in bhree upstanding points at the back, filled in wibh pale green chillon. Large gauntlet cuffs, lined with green, completed the sleeves.

The th rd design is a simple bub stylish way of m iking a washing dress. The bodice is mado blouse-fashion with a yoke, the front being open V shape to show a white chemisette and collar, and sleeves full to elbow and tied in once above. The skirt is kilted the whole length, and stitched on to the blouse with a heading. This answers well for careful washing, as it can be s_ easily unsown, and when washed re-kilted and put on again, looking as fresh as new. A cornflower blue cambric with white " bird's-eye" spots looks well thus mado, or any simple washing fabric. Shot silks of every hue, says an authority, are very much worn this season, in all sorts of ways, for d resses, petticoats, sunshades, etc. Another revived fashion and a very charming one, too, is the old-fashioned Organdie muslin. Made with three tiny frills round the bottom of the skirt, and trimmed with plenty of lace and ribbon, these gowns look delightfully Iresh and dainty. Corduroy crepon is quite a new material introduced this sea«on. It drapes beautifully and looks very chic— no other word expresses what I mean. A pale grey corduroy crepon which I saw the other day, was made with a plain skirt with a narrow band of silver galon about six or eight inches from the edge of the skirt. The bodice was coat-shaped with silver buttons, and was cut open in front over a vest of grey silk with white flowers. Tho hat worn with it was of grey crinoline, turned up at tho back, broad and flat in front, and trimmed wibh paler and darker grey ostrich feathers. The whole effect was very good.

Time was when ib was considered a piby bo se-lacb white as the colour for bhe bridesmaid's costume : now it is the exception to see thorn in anything else. In Paris the " hire system" extends to bridal outfits. Not only the wedding dress, but everything required for the occasion is lent out.

ROSELLB.