THE QUEEN'S HIGHWAY.

Auckland Star, Volume XVII, Issue 241, 13 October 1886, Page 3

THE QUEEN'S HIGHWAY.

FROM PACIFIC TO ATLANTIC

BY STUART OUMBERLAKU,

[Special Correspondence of Auckland Star ]

No. 11. Port Moody. The moro one sees of Port Moody the less one is contented with it, and it is to mo a complete mystery how it ever cime to be selected as the Parliamentary terminus. "It is nine miles further from the ocean than Vancouver, and its harbour facilities are, iv comparison, of tho most wretched description. I am convinced that the placo will be futuioless. Tho C.P.R.'s offices aro of tho most primitive charactor. Thero is a goods Btore, a wharf, a ticket and telegraph office, ond that is about all. A traveller arriving from tho Ea6t could not fail to bo anything but favourably impressed by the aspoct of affairs. But his stay in Port Moody would bo short. In an hour from arriving he would go on board a local steamer, which iv nine hours would land him in Victoria, whore he would find a good hotel and the comforts of civil-

isation. Last night Sir Goorgo Stephon, President of tho Canadian Pacific Railway, Lady Stephen, Mr W. C. Van Home, Vico President and General Manager, accompanied by two or threo young English lordships, arrived in Port Moody by special train. I had often mot Mr Van Homo when I was in Canada four years ago, and 1 had with me letters to Sir George Stephon. 1 dinod with them, and after the enforcod starvation of tho previous twenty-four hours tho keenness of my appotito must havo surprised them. To day 1 was asked to accompany tho party on aapocial steamer on a trip to Vancouver and English Bay. I accepted tho invitation, and took occasion to acquire information in connection with tho railway, especially with regard to a futuro through communication to Australiaaud tho Antipodos. SirGoorgo wasnotrerycommunicativo. Thore was an air of special trtiinistn about him which, however well it fittod in with !

tho importance of tho situation, waa not particularly enlightening. Mr Van Home is a vory brusque man, and ho is scarcely over likely to bo popular ; hut it is mainly due to his indomitable onergy that tho great railway system of which he is tho manager haa been pushed so speedily to so successful a termination. lam enforced to comparo the interest taken by these railway magnates in Australasian affairs to that evinced by tho veteran stateß_.au, Sir John Macdonald. He welcomed me most cordially immediately on hia arrival in Victoria, thanked mo very warmly for the interest 1 took in Canadian affairs, and for the trouble I was taking to bring Cnnadaand its groat tram-continontal railway promi nontly beforethopeoploof Australia and New Zealand, ns well as at Homo and in tho East. Sir John is most anxious for our colonies to bo brought cloao togothor, and ho would, I think, gladly welcome any practicable echemo of Imperial federation. He had somo talk upon the subjoct with Sir Henry Parke* when that gentleman was in Canada. Sir Henry is, I boliovo, the only Australian of note with whom Sir John Inn conversed, ond ho was doetrous of knowing whothor tho statosmon of the othor colonies hold views akin to those of tho Now South Wales' Parliamentary votornn, Theso views wero in keeping with those expressed by tho Canadian Premier. It ia really astonishing how little Canada knows of Australia, and how equally little the South Pacific colonio? know of tho Dominion. How desirable it ia that thoy should bo brought closo together. Thobuildingof tbepresentrailway promises to accomplish this, and as tho two countries can bo of mutual aeuistar.ee to each other tho sooner tho connecting link of oeoanic communication is established tho better. Sir John Macdonald ia in hi. "2nd yoar, and tor close upon 40 years ho has ruled ovor the destinioa of the Dominion. Hia popu larity novor seems to wano. This is the lint visit ho has paid to tho Pacific coast, and wbon hearrivod the inhabitants of Victoria turned out en masse to meet him He waa treated to a torchlight procession and furrounded by tho city band. Regattas, public dinners, ball", etc., etc., have beon go 6up in hia and Lady Macdonald's honour. His freshness, and high spirits luckily allow him to take part in their festivities. Last winter he caught cold and was vory ill, but I thought when I mot him

in Victoria he was looking far better than he did when I saw him in Ottawa four years ago. Sir John bears a strong resemblance to JLord Beaconsfield. . His hair grows and curls like hia did, and there ia tho same jauntiness of manner about him which distinguishes the late leader of the Tories. Thoy held the same political viows and a vory strong personal friendship sxistod between the two statesmon.

But to return to our railway magnates. Ihoy seem to imagine that thoy have only to ask and to receive. Nothing, in fact, could possibly be denied; them by nny government. Thoy were ovidently puffed up with tho succors of the railway, and took in all pride to thomeolvos the idea that tho world was now nt their foet. Their pride is very natural, as thoy, or rather tho syndicate of which they aro at the head, havo acQ.mplUhed a groat, nay an unparalleled undertaking; but this does not warrant them in believing that thoy can in oonsoquenco ride rough-shod over tho world at large. As I pointed out to thorn, Australia to bo won would havo to be courted. To court her becomingly I said wa» to win her, and she would in the cud bring her a richor dowry than that she would obtain through the anticipated Asiatic connection. I firmly believe that in the fulness of time muoh commercial benefit will accrue to the two countries by this bringing together.

Quick Communication with Australasia.

The advantages of a quick through communication to tho Old Country—quicker than by any existing route-by way of Canada, speak for themsolvos. Neither Sir George Stephens nor Mr Van Home (tho latter is an American, and has never even been to Europe) have travellod much, and their ignorance of Australia and the Australasian Continent in a measure ia excusable. But they will do well to cultivate a better knowledge of a country with which they seek to establish close commercial relations.

I gathered from Mr Van Homo thata proposition with regard to the running of a line of steamers to tho antipodes and to Pong Kong waa now beforo the Imperial Parliament, and that so soon as a decisive answer was received in accordanco with their anticipations the order would immediately be given to go on with the ships a conditional contract for which had already been entered intc. These ships are to be tho fastoat and best equipped in tho world. The rate of speed is to be not less than 17_r knots an hour. Everything is to be done to bring the antipodes and China nearer to England by several days than it has been before. These fast steamers aro to run from Liverpool to Halifax in from four to five days In five moro days one is to be landed at the Pacific terminus by the C.P.R. Then by like fast vessels one is to be wafted to Auckland, Sydney and Australian ports. So runs the story as told and evidently believed in by Mr Van Home. He is not only sincere in hia views, but ha is unwontedly dogmatic about them. Time, which proves everything, will see how far these prognostications are correct. In the meantime, I sincerely hope that the Australian Governments and the Australian people will take kindly to tho idea of a quick through communicatina over Canada. Vancouver the Terminus.

It has been definitely decided that Vancouver is to be the terminus of the railway. The choice has been a wise one, and now the uncertainty has been removed a renewed impetus will be given to enterprise in the neighbourhood. This dooms Port Moody. The speculators and land grabbers are determined, however, not to submit to their fate quietly. Much land had been bought in the vicinity in anticipation of Port Moody being the actual as well as the Parliamentary terminus. They have, as the phrase goes hereabouts, caught on a snag. In their chagrin and spite they have obtained injunctions against tbe railway, prohibiting them from continuing tho line of rail to Vancouver. As we coaated down the Inlet we saw here and there gaps in the line, which otherwise is being rapidly constructed, the outcome of these injunctions. The C.P.R have, however, obtained a verdict to the effect that although Port Moody ia the Parliamentary terminus, there ia nothing to prevent tho Company from extending its line of rail to such point as they may think fit. And Mr Var> Homo ia determined, with the decisiveness peculiar to him, to get the line carried through.

" If they won't let us have the land on reasonable conditions/ said he, " then we'll

go out with the sea, and so re-connect with the shore. Then I guess theso blockers will get loft—badly left. ' There isnothingtoprevent him from carrying out his threat, as the water in tho inlet not deep close to tho shore, and tho distanco from point to point where tho blocks of land are hold along the shore are small in extent.

Now that Vuncouvcr is decided upon bb tho terminus, it will be necessary to fortify the aarrows. This could bo eaeily dono, and at a small cost. No ship whatsoever could enter tho inlet under such conditions, and tho lino of communication could bo kept perfectly secure, ' It would not be sufficient to fortify Bequlmault only. An enemy's ships could easily steam into the Straits of Georgia, and so command the lino of rail without hindrance from the Esquimault defences. Tho Canadian Government, with the help of the Imperial Government, will, without doubt, havo English Bay and the " narrows" only protoctod. Ia the meantime a thorough survey ia being made of Esquimault. Licut.-Col. O'Brien has arrived there, and to bim has been ontrusto.d tho task of preparing a scheme for a thorough defence of tho harbour and coast. I understand that tho Imperial Government will bear the cost of construction, and they will provido tho armaments, Canada providing themon. Esquimault, as a first-class naval station, would have every advantage. Supplio3 aro abundant, and the coal fields at Nanimo are practically inexhaustible. _ Mr Dunsmuir, tho British Columbian millionaire, has built a railway from Victoria to Nanimo, passing through E.quiraault, in order to bring his coal pits nearer the capital, A Columbian Millionaire.

Naninio coal is by far tho bcit produced of any on tho Pacific coast, and it is in great demand amongst tho coatting vessels, whilst very large quantities are shippod to San Franciico and American ports. This abundance of coal in Vancouver's Island will bo of groat benefit to the C.P.R. Com pany in putting on Its trans-oceanic steamers. In this matter it has distinct advantages ovor San Francisco. I had many conversations with Mr Dunsmuir who is tho most niodoat millionaire I ever met. Ho didn't know what putting on I "side " is, and he is to-day as quiet and as unassuming a man as ho was in the days— and thoy aro not long ago—when ho was earning a few shillings a day by the sweat of his brow. His object la making the lino of rail from Victoria, to Nanimo ho told mo, was not only to bring tho coal quicker and cheaper to the capital, but to ehorton tho distanco botweon Vancouver's Island and the main land Nanimo is almost opposit. Burrard's Inlet, and thero is only a fow miles greater between that placo and the C P.R. terminus. No doubt many people would, especially in wintor, prefer taking the route to Victoria than the all water route before alluded to. This island railway was not quite finished when I was in Victoria, but Mr Dunsmuir, with his usual courtesy, at once invited me to go as far ac the railway went. He had an ongine and a car specially arranged for me, and I spent a most agreoable day in making a trip. Tho scenery along the lino is not only vory beautiful, but in places it wns actually enchanting. Thore was such a wealth of wood and mountain, of lake and torrent, all blending together in one harmonious whole. Then tho weather was co delightful. Thero i. really nothing liko the climate of Vancouver's Island. Its baln-i----noss, its peacofulnots, and goneral evennees cannot, I vonturo to think, bo equalled any whore in this wide nnd beautiful world. This is nica the verdict of every traveller who visits tho island. The railway is excellontly constructed, and I have never bofore had so smooth a run over so new a line. There ia a good deal of bridging in It, but thero is very little tttnnolling. There is in fact only one tunnol of importance in Its whole length of 90 miles. All sorts of wild flowers raise their hoadsfrom out of the swamps and tho rivers' banks and tho forests are bright with wild berries, and literally alive with gamo. Black grouse squatted amongst tho grow tufti, seemingly too fat and content to rico when the train whiskod past them. Tho red deer camo out of their leafy fastnesses and looked »t us with soft eyes. They wore quite fearless, and although some went scampering back into tho woods the others remained gazing aftor the train tometime after it had paesed thorn. Then ducks and teal and tho wild fowl, ediblo and otliorwise, skimmed over the brackish pools with the light of the sun full upon their wings. Except in the Indian tanks, I had never soon io many boforo. Tho shooting session does not commonco till tho Ist of September, nnd tho building of this railway will opon up fresh ground for tho sportsman. Sport all over the island U more thau excellent—lt is boundless, whether it bo with tho rod or the gun. Harbour of Es qulmanlt.

The harbour of Esquimault is capable of holding every man-of-war that we have. At, present thoro is but ono warship stationed there, tho Triumph, in command of Admiral Sir Scymcur who has command of the PaciGe Squadron. I had the honour of lunching with him a few days back on board the Triumph when I took occasion to i>poak with him respecting Russia's i-tercste. He does not seem to think that wo could make very much uso of Esquimault as o base of operations against Vladtvor-toek or any other Russian parts in tho Pacific. In the first piaco the distance would bo too great, and in the eocond plaoe the winds in tho tiebring Sea aro something terrific. Thia would necessitate tho comumption of moro coal than the ships could carry. Besides, the Chinese squadron ie near at hand, and has with tho acquisition of Port Hamilton a much better base of operations. Thia acquisition of Port Hamilton Imb irritated the Rußaiati Government exceedingly, and I hear that in order to bo on abetter footing in Asiatic waters tho Muscovites threaten to eoizo Port Luzaroff. ■ This is a much bettor port than Vladivosteck, being open all tho year round, whilst the latter placo is blocked with ice during tho winter months. Tbe Mystorlous Vostnlok Turns Tip.

I see that Vice-Admiral Lang has received instructions to proceed at once to Port Lazareff I wondor whether this ia my old friend of tho Vestnick, who was in Melbourne a few months ago. From Melbourne he went to Launceston, where I again fell in with-him. After spending some days on the look put in Tasmanian waters the Vestnick proceeded to Wellington, its final destination being Japan The telegram I have seen speaks of Vice-Admiral Lang ia charge of the Russian fleet in Japanese waters. Whilst in Australian waters the Vestnick no doubt collected no end of information. I have no doubt but what sho camo for tho express purpose of spying out tho nakedness of tho land. There were on board those whom I had mot in St Petersburg who dtd not hold naval rank, They wero described as volunteers, but I am of opinion that their business in life waa to make reports to the authorities at St. Petersburg of how tho land lay in the Southern Pacific; aa certain as we are born there will sooner or later bo a war between Russia and England It is inovitable, and we must be prepared for it on f very side, I do not think that Russia would have much success in any attack tho might make upon India by way of Afghanistan, aa the Indian Government ia fully prepared for all eventualities, Besides which I convinced myself during the six mouths I was in India of the loyalty of the native Indian Princes in case Russia determined upon iDvading India. Both the Mahomedana and Hindoos have a religious hatred of Russia, and tbey are fully convinced that they would not enjoy tho same religious liberty that they now enjoy under British rule. It ia the one aim of the Greek Church to bring the conquered Asiatic tribes within thefolda of the Church, and to persecute those who adopt tho religion of their forefathers. It waß a short time back, if not so now, a capital offence in Russia for a Musselman to convert a Christian to Mahomedanism ; and what ia more, tho law in such matters was rigorously enforced. The native rulers of to-day are all, speaking generally, an educated and an enlightened class. They read much and are pretty well informed in political matters, Many of them take an exceptional interest in the Russiin question, and everyone with whom I spoke admitted with much fervour that he would without any delay join hands with ths English in resisting any attack on the part of Russia. For instance.the Mizam of Hyderabad, tho greatest of the native princes, during the last Russian scare at once offered to place the whole of his army at the diapoaal of the Government. Later on,when I was in Hyderabad, I asked the Prince and hia Prime Minister, tbe Nawab Salar Jung (whose guest I was) if the Government could depend upon Hyderabad against Russian aggression. "To tho last man," they said, and I have no reason to believe but what they were strictly in earneat. The Prime Minister, like his distinguished the late Sir Salar Jung, is enthusiastically loyal towards England. But to return to Esquimault. It will in any case be of great value to us to have such

a naval station there. We should be only about fourteen days from Port Hamilton and going ovor Canada about the same distance from England. It will be a perfectly secure port for us, and so easily fed from Home, in case of necessity, with armaments and men ; whilst supplies of every kind are to be had in abundance on the spot. To-morrow I take the trip across the railway. Tho scenery, if lam to believe all I hear, is tho most beautiful in the world. Tho glaciers in the lockies are, 1 am told, aa grand aa the Himalayas, as chaste as the Alps, and as rich in colouring as the Tyrol. But I wish to see and to judge for myself. In my next letter I will relate my improssions.

August 2nd, 1886