Parasite Growth on Fruit Trees.

Auckland Star, Volume XXVI, Issue 4419, 12 July 1884, Page 4

Parasite Growth on Fruit Trees.

TllK different parasites which grow and llourish on fruit trees are not only detrimental to the health of tho trees, but are a great drawback towards obtaining good crops of fruit. Moss and lichen grow rery freely on a good number of trees. These stop up tho pore*, creating a great deal of miscliiof every season. They are very easily got rid of. On tho trunk and main stems tho readiest way of dealing with them is to scrape them off with a blunt inj strument, then dress it with n thick mixture of lime-wash. The remainder of tho small branches syringe with lime-water. This is tho most ullactual and cheapest means of getting rid of it. I hero give an extract from an Americ in paper, showing tho bonoti s to be ilt rived from the above treatment. I have often "Used tho same mixture with entire success, and can therefore recommend it with confidence : —

" More or loss discussion has occurred nt various timed upon the |>oint as to whether the whitewashing of fruit trees was benoticial, harmful, or simply usele.--1. The matter sot-ms to be barely wortha di:mission, as the only p;issil>lo damage that COlll.l follow would l«' owing to 100 greatstrongth m- ca until.1 t-tl'cit through an excess of lime in tiio Mash and applying the same too goon after the whitewash is mixed. Very strong wash, is. not needed, nor is it desirable. There is imp need for or advantage likely to ensue from making tlio whittiwtieli very strong, or whit is termed caiiHtic We have used a whitewash made from old lime, tho remainder of a barrel, where tlio contents were nearly slacked by exposure to the nir. As to tho main question as to the value of whitewashing, wo have never had thesliglitestdoubt,and tho following reasons may bo given in support of tlio practice : — First: The bark is protected against the adhesion or growth of mosses upon its surface :it is a preventive of moss. Second : As dark colours absorb beat and white reflects it, whitewashing is a protection against the tap .scalding or burning during spells of exceedingly hot weather, or in unusually hot ee.isons. Third: An ordinary coat of whitewash, though <juito thin, gives the surface of tlio bark a alight coating of grit unfavourable to the deposit of insect eggs, as it prevents tho insects from securing them as closely to the bark as instinct seems to requiro; and again - Fourth: As colour protection plays a conspicuous part in tho lives of these animals, they are likely to avoid such surfaces or places for the deposit of their eggs, as being a widely different colour from tho eggs they do not afford protection in thin way. The parent insects seem to prefer as a security for themselves, whilo at< rest, a surface which is of the same, or nearly the same,colour or tono as the general ground or colour of their bodies, and this is one reason why, to tho careless observer, tho various insect pests, cither in tho adult or egg state, generally escajio detection. Tho writer has also used air slacked limo profitably as a protection against the curctilio in tho East, where this pest plays such serious havoc with the plums that often nine-tenths of v crop is destroyed by iU ravages The stalks or trunks of tho trees were whitewashed, and tho lino slack limo was dusted on the leaves above and below whilo damp with tho dew, the application being made in the morning. Dusting tho leaves of trees with air-slacked lime is also annoying to caterpillars, as these pests dislike gritty food, which is apparently repulsive to their Epicurean tastes, and while the greater part of tho caustic quality of limo thus slacked is gono through tho slacking, yet no doubt there ia enough left to make tho taste of it obnoxious. As some of tho readers of thia may not bo aware, the exposure of quicklime or fresh caustic lime, as it comes from the lime-kiln, to tho atmosphere for a sufficient length of time will cause the lumps to disintegrate and become a tine powder. Care should bo exorcised in not using it before it is sufficiently slacked, especially where dusting the foliago is inintended ; and if the lime is only partly slacked, the hands or flesh will be burned by handling it."

Rose-Growing. Situation.—Where roses are to be grown to perfection it is better to pick out a place for themselves, apart from other flowers. If possible, the situation should be well sheltered from all Btrong winds, but open so that a free current of air will bo continually permeating the plants, as a close place is very apt to generate mildew. Whcro they cannot have a place to themselves any part of the borders best fulfilling those coii- ; (litions will answer. Give them plenty of 1 rnnm to grow.

Sou,—Suitable soil is the moM; imputiint item in the successful cultivation of the ror:e. The soil in which they delight most in a rich, retentive, unctions loam, that feels greasy when pressed between the lingers. If the chosen .situation docs not possess tho soil best suited for thoir growth it should be improved, if too light, by tho addition of still1 loum, or oven clay well worked in will greatly assist in producing good bloom. Where the soil is too heavy it must be drained, and to make it free a portion of the clay should bo burned and spread over tho surface and incorporated with the body. The addition of ashes, wood, or coal will also greatly facilitate tho above purposes.

Dkaini.w and Trenching.—All soils should be thoroughly undcrdrained. Roses (as woll as most other border plants) will not do well if tho soil is not thoroughly well drained. All sour stagnant «°iter must be taken away from their roots. It would bo better to drain three feet deep. Tho soil should also bo thoroughly trenched two spits deep. This will allow of a good depth for the roots to penetrate. One of tho reasons that rose bushes throw up so many suckers here is that the ground has not been wrought to a pullicient depth. No heavy feeding plant can properly grow unless the soil is wrought to a contridoruble depth. The best timo to drain and trench the ground is in autumn, while the ground ia dry, thus getting it into a line tilth before the planting season comes on.

Planting.— The best time for planting out rosea is immediately after they have ripened off in the beginning of winter. When planting, open up a large hole, mix in the hole a good quantity of loam and well rotted manure, and plant the roots firmly in this. The distance at which they are required to be planted apart will vary according to tho habit of the varieties used. After planting, stako them so that the wind will not work them backwards and forwards, thus creating a puddle at tlio roots, which is very injurious. Do not shorten 'back till the spring, which is the beat time for pruning the rose. (To be Continued.)