"DENMARK AND THE DANES."

Auckland Star, Volume XXI, Issue 4193, 24 November 1883, Page 10 (Supplement)

"DENMARK AND THE DANES."

Mk G. W. GRIFFIN, American Consul in Auckland, delivered a lecture on tho abovo subject last night in the Ponsonby Hall. He said :— Denmark, tho little kingdom in ■which it was my fortune to live for several

years, is one of the most interesting countries in Europe. Tho annexation of tho Duchies of Schleswig and Holstein to tho German Empire took from the Danes a territory of about 7,000 square miles, and there now remain to them an extent of country of only 15,000 square miles, a little less than one-sixth of thcarea of the colony of Now Zealand; nevertheless, thelittlekingdoin extends its sway over vast, although thinlypopulated, dominions. These include— Greenland, which has the dimensions of a continent, stretching from Cape Farewell to tho furthermost polar latitude, .Iceland, the Faroo Islands, and the Danish West Indies, all of which increase tho area to about 450,000 square miles. Denmark -proper lies between the parallels 53deg. and 58deg. north latitude, and between the 'meridians of 7<leg. and 13deg. east longitude. It has a population of about 1,700,000. The word "Denmark" signifies tho land or mark of the Danes. The southern part of the kingdom is composed of rich agricultural lands well grassed and watered. The northern part of the poninsula of Jutland is, indeed, a cold and desolate region. It is swept for a distance of over two hundred miles by almost unintermitting tempests and drifts of sand. Among the Gipsios in Jutland. In 1573 I followed a band of Gipsies into that desolate region, with tho view of increasing my knowledge of Gipsy lifo and character. When a boy, my African nurse often talked to mo about the Gipsies. Sho was very fond of quoting tho saying, "Onco a Gipsy, always a Gipsy." Sho used to toll mo that I had Gipsy blood in my voins. Perhaps her stories havo had something to do with my wandering lifo, and especially with my adventures amongst tho Gipsies. At all events, when I reached the town of Skagenandsaw so many of tho houses half-buried in tho Band, I was very desirous to retrace my footsteps; but ono of tho band, Antonius Gawino, Count of Little Egypt, whose acquaintance 1 made on the route, forbade my returning until 1 could satisfy his peoplo of tho object of my visit. These worthies pitched their tents a few miles from tho town of Skngan, and I was a prisoner in tlioir camp for about 18 hours. Tho night was the longest of my lifo. It seemed to stretch out, liko the lino of ghost* in "Macbeth," tothucrackof doom. Tho little glue]) that 1 gut was worse than nono at all. Tho morning eiimo at hut, and after breakfast I was, to Homo extent, comforted, in having my fortune told by ii bountiful <;ipsy girl, who pointed out a very prosperous and brilliant future for me. 1 also witnessed a Gipsy marriage ceremony, which was performed around tho body of a duad horse, sacrificed for tho purpose at the time of high moon. My (Sipsy frlonds let mi; depart in jwace, after a careful inspection of my official passport, which they hold up between tho light in order to see the water marks of tho American uuglu and tho United States coat of arms. Tho City of Coponliagcn. I must now leavo tho Gipsies and tho dosolnto shorcß of Jutland, mid apeak to you of Copenhagen, ono of tho most beautiful cities in tho world, and where I passed some of tho happiest hours of my lifo. Tho city has command of two oceans—tho Baltic and the North Sea. It was originally a fishing village, but became a place of importance as early as tho l'2th century. Its commerce is not only large, but is constantly increasing. Its climate is mild, notwithstanding its northern latitude. This is duo partly to tho insulated condition of tho country and to tho efl'ect of tho Gulf stream. Tho oxtremo heat is 80" aboro zero. Tho longest day is about eighteen hours, and tho shortest is six hours. Tho glenm of water is found everywhere ; in fact, tho city is so intersected and islanded that it has won tho name of tho Northern Venico. Tho houses, which aro generally four and five stories high, aro built in" a pleasing stylo of architecture, and aro covered with stucco work. The peoplo live in Hats, and some of tho buildings contain as many as eighty families. There was only one houso in the city occupied by ono family, and that was tho residence of tho British Ambassador. Tho public buildings compare favourably with those of London, Pads, and Vienna. Tho Christianborg Palace is ono of tho largest and finest in tho world. Tho loft wing of the Palace is used for tho Royal Picture Gallery. Many of tho best works of Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, Cignani, Rubens, Vandyke, Hans, Mombling, Van Marnier, and Carl Bloch, lulorn tho gallery. Tho building contains about ono thousand pictures. It is especially rich in Dutch and Flemish paintings. I took vory groat delight in studying tho works of the Danish artists, especially thoso of Van Mandcr. Jans .luel and Carl Bloch. Bloch's picture of Christian 11. had such an attraction for mo that I visitoJ tho gallery again and again to look at it. Christian 11. U not a favourite with tho Danes, becauso under his rule thoy lost tho Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway ; but it is a part of my nature to sympathise with misfortune. King Christian, moreover, had many admirable qualitios. Ho restricted the ]x>wcr of the nobles, and was over a friend of tho peasantry. Ho supported tho Reformation of Luther, and first opened tho channels of commorco to tho Dutch traders, but ho was unfortunate in battlo, and, of oonreo, lost tho favour of his gubjocts. Ho was kept a close prisoner in a gloomy dungeon in the castlo of Sondenborg for a period of 10 years. Tho door of his cell was walled up, and his food and water wero passed down to him by a ropo. A jug and a round table wcro tho only articles of furniture allowed him. The unhappy King walked round and round tho tablo until a groove was worn in it an inch deep by the pressure of his thumb. Tho artist has represented tho King with a strikingly intellectual face, notwithstanding the gloomy oxprossian of his features. The rude castlo of Coponhagon, which tho king engraved upon the walls of his prison from memory, is visiblo in tho picture His plumed cap, broken shoestring, and worn and faded garments add an additional interest to tho stoiy of his sufferings. While contemplating tho picture, my hoart went out in admiration for the commanding genius of tho artist who could thus reveal to us such an impressive lesson of human wrongs and sorrows. The Musounis of Copenhagen. The museums of Copenhagen aro unrivalled in Europe. Tho old Northern Museum, the Ethnographic, Thorwallsens, and tho Chronological Collection of the Danish Kings in Rosenbory Castle, abound in treasures of surpassing beauty and magnificence. Among theso I will mention Queen Dagmars Cross, tho oldest enamelled cross in the world. This cross, a facsimile of one which 1 had made for my friend Hobert Shelton Mackenzie, is about an inch

and a-quarter in length, and an inch in width. It is fastened by two small gold bands or bracelets toan enamelled ring, and was designed to be worn as an urnament to a necklace. On one side of the cross is the figure of our Saviour in a bluo enamelled background; on each side of his body, under the outstretched arms, are two scrolls, and above His head is a blue enamelled circle in purple and gold. On the other side of the cross are five medallions, Christ forming the central figure, with tho Virgin Mary on the right, St. John tho Baptist on the left, St. Basil above, and St. John Crysostom below. Tlio Ethnographic collection is so arranged that the visitor is enabled to make as it were a journey round the world, and to form a knowledge ef the habits and customs of thoEsquimaux, the Indian, the Negro, the Malay, the Polynesian, the Chinese, Japanese, Persian, Tartar, Turk, and Arab. I found so many treasures in Itosenborg Castle that I hardly know which one to select for a description this ovening. A Wonderful Horn. Perhaps some account of tho Oldenborg horn would interest you, for around this exquisite work of art cluster many beautiful legends and stories. The horn proper is made of silver, but is enriched with ornamentations of pearl, emerald, ruby, amethyst, and gold. It is about three feet in length, inclusive of the main stem. The entire exterior displays a wonderful knowledge of whatever pertains to the chivalry of thomiddloages. Knights in armour on horseback, shield-bearers, torchbearers, musicians, soldiers carrying Hugs and banners, groups of lions, tigers, and eagles, projecting balconies with ladies over looking and playing upon lutes and harps, watchmen upon towers holding burning censers, blocks of mosaic and lettered inscriptions appear in endless variety. The true story of this horn is that it was uiiide by a jeweller named Daniel Arateus for Christian I. It was intended as a votive olloiing at the shrino of the Maji. Othors trace the horn as far back as the.time of Count Otto 1., of Oldenborg, and relato tho following story in su]>])ort of their claim. In the year US9, Count Otto L, of Oldenborg, was out hunting in his forost near tho mountain of Offonborg. In his eagerness to pursuo the deer, lie ascended an unfrequented mountain path and got separated from his companions. Tho day was sultry, and tho Count chocked his hor.se and exclaimed, " Would that I had a cooling draught I" whereupon the side of tho mountain opened, and ho bohold a beautiful maiden with lustrous eyes and long, ilowing, golden hair. She advanced towards him and handed him a horn of silver and gold, and said, "Drink of this, Count Otto, then fortune shall favour tlieo and the wholo Houso of Oldenborg ; but if you refuse, misfortune shall befall thee, and evil shall betide thy race." Tho Count received tho gift with a thrill of joy, but upon tasting tho liquid ho discovered that it emitted a poisonous odour, and at once emptied tho contents on the ground, a drop of which singed tho hair of his horse. When tho maidon saw what ho had dono with the draught, sho domanded that tho horn should be returned to her ; but Count Otto refused, saying, "What has once been given mo con never be taken away." With those words ho doffed his hat to tho maiden, and soon joined his companions, whom ho told of his intorviow with tho mountain sprite, and at tho sumo time showed them his glittering trophy. Now, it is maintained that thu horn was carefully guarded by tho representatives of tho house of Oldenborg until it was brought to Itosenborg Castle. I was much delighted with the Knights' Hall, where the regalia is kept. Tho walls aro hung with oriental cloths, intorvoven with gold and silver. In tho contro risen a pyramid of plato glass, beneath which, on a purple velvet background, spnrklo a countless number of precious stones. Tho value of tho ornamonte in this room is counted by millions. Tho glass room contains tho rarest and most valuable collection of glassware in the world. There is no othor that can at all bo compared to it. It was obtained by Frederick IV. while in Venico in 1714. He succeeded in getting Rome specimens of lilagro or thread glass, manufactured by a secret process. The secret was known to only ono person, and at his death the art was lost. Collectors have sought in vain for .specimens of this glass, and oll'or untold suras for it. Next to the lilagro glass, tho ancient jewelled glass such as the ruby, opal, pearl, aructhyst, .sapphire, and oinorald are the most valuable. The walls of the room aro decorated with valuable paintings and green silk curtains. The minor room is entirely of French plato looking-glass. On entering the, room tho visitor discovers that the walls Door, coiling, and doors arc all of glass. Tho effect is at once startling and bewildering. In walking about the floor you sec your image gliding in all directions, around nnd about you, abovo and beneath. Tho images above aro moving on their heads, while those below aro on their feot. It is a mystery to mo how the treasures in tho castlo aro so well preserved) The wedding suit of Frederick V., 1743, does not show the least sign of age. Tho gold embroidery is as bright as if put on yesterday. Tho Castlo of Rosonborg was built under tho supervision of Christian IV., who is credited with being tho founder of that stylo of architecture in which tho Gothic is harmoniously blended with anothor stylo. It is impossible for ono to behold this magnificent structure without feelings of admiration and awa. Its graceful and slender turrets, cronulatod gables and pointed cornico ornaments cannot fail to mako a lasting impression. The building is threo stories in' height. Tho main front oxtonds from cast to wo«t. Tho principal tower is 100 feet in hoight. Tho principal or central turret is octagonal in shape, and risos 65 foot abovo tho roof. Tho walla of tho corridor of tho castle aro hung with pictures of tho principal events in the history of tho two first centuries ef the House of Oldenborg. The Thorwaldscn Collection. It would occupy too much of your time for mo to attempt to give anything like a detailed description of tho museums of Copenhagen ; but}l wish to say something of Thorwaldsen's "Museum, tho Mecca of sculpture. There is nothing liko it in all the world. Tho building was begun during tho lifo of Thorwaldpen, and was designed as a repository for all his works. In the centro of tho museum is his tomb, in an open court. The walls of tho court aro of the same colour as the sky, and ornamented with roses and lilies, tho flowers lie loved so woll. On the top of tho tomb is an obon cross, bearing his namo and the date of his birth and death. Ivy leaves aro twined about it. Hero he sloops well, and in summer tho birds come, and tho golden-tinted clouds look down upon him and bless him. There are, in tho museum, 10S works in marble, 4 groups, 19 statues, 05 has reliefs, and' one frieze. In tho corridor on the upper lloor aro the models of his statues, and bos reliefs, that aro in marble in other parts of tho building. The sculptor was very fond of executing mythological figiu-es^the best of which aro his statues of Cupid, Psycho, Mercury, and "Jason returning with tho golden ileece." Tho Hall of Christ is, howover, tho chief at-

traction of the building. In it is the figure of our Saviour surrounded by His twelve apostle?, each of whom is portrayed in his traditional dress and character. The last room in the Museum contains an old fashionablo Dutch clock, which marks the hour of the sculptor's death, and which is said to have ceased running the moment he died. Near to this clock is the bust of Luther, upon which he was working tho day of his death. Thero aro also in the room several unfinished sketches and a slate containing his last drawing which was designed for a has relief. It is impossible to turn from theso unfinished sketches without a mist in the eyo and a throb in tho throat. It was tho dream of the sculptor's lifo to provide for his parents in their old ago, who were inmates of tho poor-house in Copenhagen ; but alas ! the dream was never to be realised, for when fortune smiled upon him, both father and mother were dead. It is tho old old story of disappointed hopes and ambition, of joys unfulfilled, of tho woary watching for tho dawn of to-morrow's morn that can never come.