Ladies' Column.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 695, 29 September 1909, Page 2

Ladies' Column.

FASHION AND THINGS FEMININE. By Miss Ida Msllor, (ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.) SMART SIMPLICITY. The Directoire collar and Directoire sash are playing a prominent part in winter fashions, and by their influence can lift the simplest toilette into the realm of smartness. The way in which the neck and waist are dressed means much to the impression made by a toilette. We all know the telling- effect of the very high collar-band and how much a dress is robbed of "style" if the stand-up collar is only moderately high. < Put a nice wide stock-collar to a simple shirt, and you add considerably, in appearance at least, to the value of

the latter. See, for instance, how influential is the high collar of black satin-ribbon that graces the tucked shirt sketched, and no less important is the black satin Directoire sash at

the waist, with its side-knot and fringed ends. The shirt in itself is extremely simple in character, but charmingly pretty. The even lines of little tucks covering the fronts are broken only in the centre by a box-pleat with small buttons, running- from throat to waist. Tucks are again- introduced on the cuffs to the somewhat full sleeves, and the übiquitous little frill of pleated muslin peeps above the satin at the neck. This shirt looks v&y well in cream delaine —and, agaiar pale pink and pale blue show up excellently against the touches of black at the throat and waist. Very few shirts are in evidence this season that are not more or less tucked, but few styles are more attractive than the scries of fine even tucks as shown on our model shirt, where the tuckings, it will be observed, are carried right down to the waist and not released midway.

HOW TO MAKE UP SALE PURCHASES. For the next few weeks women will make their drapery purchases under advantageous conditions, for the usual mid-winter sales will be in' progress., and doubtless there will be no lack of bargains to tempt those who go with well-filled purses. It is easy to overstep the mark in the way of spending more than one intended to do at the" sales, and unless a rather strict watch is kept on the purse-strings it is possible that one may come away from the sales with several promiscuous purchases, but without having bought

what was of primary importance, and without having the necessary number of shillings left wherewith to procure the same. The wisest plan is to buy all the necessaries first, Jfcd then whatever money remains over can- 3 purchase little extras. It is sometimes difficult to decide how to make up cheap remnants and short lengths of dress material bought at the sales, with no immediate object in view at the time, but with the certainty that they would be useful by and bye. Our full-length sketch offers a suggestion on the making up of short lengths of cloth or velveteen, soft silk and lace in a manner fully in acordance with fashion's latest will. The chief part of the dress might be of velveteen or cloth, with an umderpetticoat of silk and part of the bodice composed of coarse lace, with a high collar of the same. The draped effect of the bodice is very becoming, and may be recommended specially to the notice of the woman inclined to be stout, as it is a style that tends to subdue the figure. The drapery is caught at the left side of the waist with a big button, and the parted edges of the skirt are laced across with cord or ribbon run through cord rings. The long, tight-fitting sleeves are also laced on the outer sides, and the underskirt is finished on the lower part with many tucks. This petticoat might, of course, be of chiffon or some such material instead of silk. It will only be necessary for the panel that is seen to be of either material named, the rest of the petticoat, that is not visible, being of cheaper stwff.

A NIGHTDRESS SACHET. One of the most popular and useful presents is a sachet, be it for nightdresses, handkerchiefs, veils, lace, or other things. In one form or another the sachet is always with us, and, as it is easily made, it is a gift that a girl who is not, as a rule, clever with her needle can succeed in putting together with credit to herself. The sachet sketched is suitable for linen or satin, 'and the design can be copied in large or small size. The chief ornament is the piece of wide satin ribbon that crosses the top of

the sachet diagonally, from cover to cover, and is arranged in a big rosette bow in the centre. The sachet is lined with quilted silk, covering plenty of wadding, which should be perfumed with sachet powder, and is bordered all round with silk-cord matching the colour of the satin or linen cover, and looped at the corners. A cover with satin-ribbon in a rich shade 01 violet is a pretty scheme for tne sacht; and hydrangea-blue with pale pink ribbon is equally effective.

The Royal Observatory of Greenwich from which place longitude is measured, was established in the^ reign of Charles 11. It was suggested by a celebrated astronomer named t lamsteed and measure' Were taken under Ms superintends for adopting the stiSv of astronomy as a national object.