DRESS AND FASHION NOTES

LONDON, PARISIAN, AND MELBOURNE. Dres«es of corduroy velvet quite plainly made are worn, and are solely trimmed with large berthes or capes of rich guipure and sometimes a little embroidered galon. Two pretty styles for trimming bodices with lace aud jetted net respectively were carried out as follows:—The first for a young lady wearing a pale pink satin toil-* ette, with fichu bodice trimming of pink crepe and graduated frilling of fine white guipure lace. Crossing the shoulders at the back is a deep collar of black velvet, throwing up au applique cf the -white lace,' the waistband repeating this effect. Case ides cf lace frame the front breadth of the skirt. The secoud is that of a matron wearing a costume of sage-green moire, with a bodice of black velvet, filled in with a transparent chemisette of black net, crossed by lines of jet. The sleeve* share this same material, and jet ornaments drape the bodice and the velvet collar. In the hair is a pretty coronet of jet, which is now a very favourite hair ornament. Black gloves and fan. Velvet will once again grace many a .dainty figure, for which reaaon we should congratulate ourselves, for—is there a material more becoming? Velvet is always most advantageous when plainly made, but then ifc forms an effective background for ornamentation. The ornamentation which, we have suggested here is of jet, applique to a ground of bronze green satin ribbon, with figurings of pale-blue satin let in between the jetted pattern. This ia applied in a broad waved baud on the skirt of a black velvet Co3tu*-ue, and vertical bands of the same trim the bodice, from the end of which droop pendant fringes of jet. In front of the large sleeve puffs droops a festooning of jet, caught up with a star ornament. SKIRTS, TUNICS AND BASQUES. The backs of skirts are treated in -lutings or organ pleats, and wadded at the waist to make them stand out better. Peasant skirts cut full and straight and mouuted in gathers around the waist are favoured for slight figures. Of tunics we have the square tunic looking somewhat like a t.-iblu-i* that is becomincr, and the blouse "unit*, composed of a blouse bodice with a. ri-.:ep basque falling in fluted pleats urouini tit- skirt to about the height of the knees. Then the basque tunic of tbe tight bodice (often reaches to such length) is plain at the aides, and full at the back. Bodices have, really come to be cut very low- on tiie shoulders, and the fulness of the sleeve to fall quite low down on the arm. Therefore all the trimmings of revers, broad collars, capes, frillings and epauletes tend to increase this effect. The doublebreasted bodice is a favourite, and it always hat* the addition of very broad revers, these sometimes coming from, a deep cape collar at the back. Such bodices may have basque-;, or be cut long, in which case they are cut square in the front for the basque to open in the centre. Another favourite bodice is that opening in a pointed form, wide at the shoulder seams, and narrowing at the bottom edge, and having a vest over which the material is fastened with large buttons below the broad turned-back frill trimming. Short, open-fronted sleeveless jackets matching the dress, with deep basques, are worn with bright-coloured blouses of silk or ornamental woollen material. Double and triple revers are "favoured on both double and BingJ<*-breasted bodices, and with single revers. is often an underlying -riffi_rrg. ; ' ~3_o§ifees - whefT ; made; without the basque are ! innocent of points, but are all the same, given a long - waisted appearance. Puffed sleeves are worn, hut the large gigot sleeves with fulness, however, uot exaggerated, are in the majority. Cuffs or wrist trimmings have disappeared for the nonce ; the trimmings are all at the top of the arm, and sometimes take tbe form of tight bands of embroidery or ornamental fabric, confining the fulness of the sleeve at the shoulder. Bodices can be made with many collar bands now, as quite a number of these of different colours are worn with a bodice. Tbey are, of course, made detachable..

PARISIAN DRESS MATERIALS.

One of the newest materials to be seen in Paris is a very coarse description of woollen known as the *' Flibustier;" it is even more coarse and open than the hopsack worn this winter. It is made of very thick threads, of which some are of silk, woven so loosely as to appear quite negligent. It will be a difficult material to combine, but the very audacity of its roughness will give it a smart appearance. The price, however, is so high that.it will hardly be generally worn. For richer dresses moire antique has come back to us. I have seen some designs which, in addition to the shading, are covered with spots and diamonds ; but although tbe latter atyle Is newer, I think the simple watered silk looks more elegant. It is being immensely used, both in black and colours, for trimmings—vests, revers, collars, and underskirts being largely composed of this and other thick silks. Many, very lovely silks are to be seen at tbe best shops, but there is a great tendency to employ those large floral designs, which, happily, have disappeared for some years, and which alway remind one of oldfashioned wall papers, with their sprawling garlands of roses, tulips, and so on Light satins, however, are: being most, exquisitely embroidered in gold, in the style of Turkish embroidery. An ivory satin< I-saw recently was edged with - a lovely border of gold, caught up here and there by raised sprays of white and mauve lilac, beautifully embroidered in silk. The effect was most elegant.

FASHIONABLE FURS.

Sable, mink, and sealskin will be as much worn as ever, but the distinct effort which has been made to revive the popularity of ermine is not likely to be successful. Bear and other rough fare will still hold their ground, and boas are not yet to be discarded, while the collarettes of sable and mink will be more fashionable than ever. Sealskin is being used more for capes than for jackets, and certainly this rich and beautiful fur specialty lends itself to their graceful folds, while all the jackets will have the full basques and sloping box-pleated sleeves which distinguish those made In the humbler silks and cloths. One of the "very newest things in fur. Is a pelerine of sealskin, the long ends bordered with sable tail-*, each of the pleats on tbe shoulders being also separated with a sable tall; the high collar is edged with the same lovely fur, and for novelty aud gracefulness of design, as well as for richness of appearance, this new pelerine is not likely to be excelled. With it is worn a huge granny muff of sable tail, and these muffs, by-the-way, are destined to be much more generally worn than they were last winter, when they were confined to a few only of the society leaders.

STYLISH MANTLES.

I have rarely seen so stylish a mantle for a middle-aged "woman as one made of black velvet, with large corded silk sleeves, the revers bordered with jet embroidery and feather trimming; at the back were triple capes, trimmed in the same fashion, and the doable basque, for the cut savoured somewhat of a jacket. They are making coats with either large revers or shoulder capes, large sleeves, and full basques, using far or velvet as trimming. For demi-toilette and for wearing over low bodices there are smart little zouaves with turned down collars or long sleeves, the latter being in the gigot style, reaching almost to the wrist, and finished off with lace. They are useful for theatre or home dinner wear. Tan shades are principally used for jackets, and these, trimmed with beaver, are very smart indeed. Capes are still being worn, and I saw some extremely handsoraeanes made of moire, embroidered with jet; a short shoulder cape of velvet added distinction and style to the mantle.

PARISIAN MILLINERY

One bonuat made of bright green velvet was shaped like the cap uf a Ncrn-andy

| peasant, and it was trimmed with jet and I black aigrettes. Another was like a baby's I bonnet: the crown was of black satin spangled with gold, and the frill round the face was edged with sable. At tho side two sable tails were fastened, and the fastening wa* hidden by a small rosette of lacs, in the middle of which was a paste buckle; it would exactly suit a yf-ung and fair woman. The picture hats were of black beaver and of black velvet, and they were trimmed with bow* ot ribbon and ostrich tips; the description sounds ordinary, but I assure you tbe hats were not so. Sceel ornaments are worn on all hats, and the long steel buckle is the favourite ornament of the season. One effective hat had an oxydised crown ; the rest of it was green, with green shot feathers, aud a few yellow bows to relieve the monotony. A red velvet bonnet had a sngar-loaf crown and one of the long fashionable buckles in front, inter threaded with black crape lisse; a triple plume of ostrich feathers at the back. Breadth over the face is a tint qua noit In this season's bonnets.

NOVEL GOWNS.

In the way of dresses I was disappointed to see the rather full and sometimes draped skirt. lam afraid it is a fact that .skirts will still be full, and that the graceful sheath skirt will not be seen again for the present. One stylish dress was of brown cloth; tbe slightly full skirt was edged with niink, and the drapery, which came to a point in the front, becoming quite short on the hips, was heavily trimmed with sequins. The bodice to this skirt was of dove-coloured striped silk as to the back, collar, and sleeves; and the front was brown, with squares of cream lace inserted. This brown front hung loosely over the waist, and then the ends were fastened in a bow at (he back. A gown I liked even better than this was of black crepon; long black ribbons weighted with let hung down in front and behind. The bodice was of Roral blue velvet, so arranged that puffs ot velvet came between four stripes of black ribbon, reaching from neck to waist. The collar was of blue velvet, and cream lace hung over the shoulders and edged the sleeves. Black moire is very handsome, and a dress of this, with a long, plain skirt and a bodice slightly trimmed with white satin and black lace, seemed to mc more dignified and graceful than the more elaborately trimmed garments. A pretty evening skirt was of alternate rows of black Lyons insertion and Surah fluted silk, falling over a white satin foundation; the stripes went round the skirt. Floral effects are to some extent fashionable, but less so just now than they have been for some time. A splendid example of a satin brocade—it had almost the effect of being haud-embroidered—was strewn with little bunches of violets and roses. Peau de aoie is a material that will be worn. It in to be had in a tempting range of aott shades. The examples I saw were chiefly shot. There are also some new effects in glace silks. Indeed, the novelties here are illimitable. A beautiful green and heliotrope shot silk had a blurred pattern of roses in soft tones of pink. A fancy Ondine material for young ladles* dresses —a mixture of silk and wool—can be had in a dozen new evening shades. It looks as well as poplin, and several degrees better than Surah. Plain, mirror, and shot velvets will be extensively worn this season. I saw some new materials for ball gowns, but I think 1 must leave these for another time.

THE BUTTERFLY MUFF.

The Butterfly muff is a decided novelty, and an attractive addition to an outdoor toilette. The muff Is made on the usual lines; the material should be velvet either of some dark rich colour or black, and the butterfly bow, also of velvet, In norue harmonising shade. This bow is formed of two shaped pieces of velvet, the material being cut on the cross and lined with muslin and silk. The body of the butterfly consists of an oblonsr jet ornament. This latter can be replaced by a twist of the velvet, fixed on a piece of hat wire. One remarkably pretty muff is of brown velvet, ornamented with a shaded green and brown velvet butterfly. This was to be worn with a smart brown cape, lined with green silk. But the - tints may be varied to harmonise with any particular costume.

FEATHER TRIMMINGS.

Feathers, as far as fashion is concerned, are in the ascendant. The amalgamation of colour is one of the notable points in fashionable plumes, and brown and yellow, and white and yellow, are most frequently combined. We fall bock greatly on ostrich feather-s-obtft forv_aHlitte_y and dressmaking, aud pretty fan-Bhaped ornaments for bonnets are made of peacock's feathers, while another ornameut is composed of paradise feathers and brown and pink ostrich tips, both soft and graceful. We are not at all likely to give up tbe wearing of feather boas If we can get such as the one described. A.beautiful black one had five thicknesses of feathers, and would not be at all likely to get out of order. The quills in various tones to match dresses are a decided boon, and to some an owl's head is attaobed, while the black ones show lines forming* a check, while others are shaded.

USEFUL TOILETTES.

A very useful gown is in diagonal cheviot*, with stripes of chestnut brown and pale electric blue. The skirt is perfectly plain, and made a short walking length at the back, with full Watteah pleats from the waist. Round the hem, close to the edge, there are three narrow lines of electric blue braid. The coat bodice is cut in a very pretty shape and opens in front to show a long vest of plain blue cloth, ornamented with buttons half-way down, but fastening invisibly under the arm. The vest is complete in itself, so that tbe coat can be worn with shirts or blouse bodices if desired: ' It fastens with one button at the waist, and is finished with a roll collar and very long revers edged with blue braid. A novel gown of Scotch tweed, the bodice being arranged with lapels, which are cut round at the corners instead of with the usual points". The bodice fastens down the centre, but is left open a little at the throat, so that it can be worn*with a sbirtfrdnt and tie. • Ibis cat away over the hips, with two rounded points to correspond with tbe lapels. The sleeves are full and -wide at the shoulders, terminating in small gauntlet cuffs. The skirt is perfectly plain except for an edging of pleated braid, the same kind of braid being also used to border the bodice....

HAND EMBROIDERED TRIMMINGS

We have been accustomed for years to turn to the East for certain rich gold embroideries ; but this is no longer necessary. It is. possible in England as well as in Paris to have the materials of any kind we may desire worked according to our own designs, or to any pattern we may prefer. Some excellent specimens of skill consist, for Instance; of black satin, covered with a design of bluettes worked with gold thread, the caiyx formed by a ruby, the actual red stone worked in with the embroidery. The pattern entirely covers the material, and is rich and uncommon. A waistcoat, collar, and cuffs, also oa black satin, is in a conventional style, displaying two shades of gold silk, and gilt metallic thread.. Down the waistcoat there are double silk waved lines ia satin stitch ; a scroll of geld carried between them. This ia supplemented by. upright rows of the same satin stitching, with conventionalised flower* introduced in tbe wavines of the pattern. The pockets and the cuffs are all wrought in thn same style. Two other specimens of skill are black satin for Zouaves, waistcoats, collars, and cuffs, worked in a solid piece all over the material in an excellent pattern of waved lines of silk and gold thread emphasised here and there by black silk embroidery. The other is a breadth of cream matela.se worked with a scroll of leaves in pink and heliotrope, with veinings of silver, from which spring wild verbena awl grasses; the flowers formed of blue-sHaded silks, with amethyst stone centres; the grass carried oat. ia silver thread, with heliotrope, pink, and cream beads. This Is part of a trimming for a gown, and has much to commend it.

CHAUSSURES.

The high glace shoes with low heels, the antelope kid, the brack satin, and the Albany patent Court shoe can scarcely be surpassed for style and finish. There are boots and shoes to suit every pane. Among shoes, are included the bronze and black, covered with jet or steel spots, as though they had been nailed, displaying tiny horseshoe buckles in front; ana plain bronze shoes, with just a paste button in the centre. The Countess shoe, with tbe Louis heel and strap across, is singularly becoming to the foot; and the black satin chaussures are lined with yellow and other pretty colours. Very uncommon is the patent leather shoe with oval slashings carried all round the top and across the foot; beneath these Openings red,, gold, or grey satin is pieced. Velvet shoes are made in all shades to wear with tea gowns; and there is a smart patent leather brogued shoe, with steel studs riveted through the material. Crystal beads are used for embroidering many of the pretty white satin shoes, with distinct straps carried across the instep.