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The original publication details are as follows:
Title: Practical gardening in New Zealand
Author: Tannock, David
Edition: 3rd ed.
Published: Whitcombe & Tombs, Auckland, N.Z., 1934
Kel way. Lanyport , Somerset New Pa'ony, Lady of the West.
PRACTICAL GARDENING IN NEW ZEALAND
BY D. TANNOCK, A.H.R.H.S.
Superintendent of Gardens, Reserves and Plantations, Dunedin
ASSISTED BY
M. J. BARNETT, F.R.H.S.; N.D.H. (N.Z.)
Superintendent of Parks and Reserves, Christchurch
A. C. RYE, N.D.H. (N.Z.), Auckland
AND OTHER PRACTICAL EXPERTS
WHITCOMBE & TOMBS LIMITED-
AUCKLAND, CHRISTCHURCH, DUNEDIN, WELLINGTON, N.Z. MELBOURNE, SYDNEY AND LONDON
PREFACE
Practical Gardening lias been written to take the place of The Manual of Gardening in New Zealand which has been out of print for some time.
It has been rearranged and almost entirely rewritten, bringing it up to date with the latest methods of horticultural practice. As the Author prepared the greater part immediately after a visit to Britain the varieties of alpine and herbaceous plants, florists’ flowers, trees and shrubs listed are those most extensively cultivated in the public and private gardens in England to-day.
The descriptions of the various gardening operations have been illustrated by drawings and as far as possible technical terms and scientific names have been avoided, so that it may be of the greatest value to beginners and amateur gardeners generally.
Gardening has made enormous strides during the past twenty years, quantities of new trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants and fruits and vegetables have been introduced, some as wild species collected in various parts of the world, and others as the results of careful cross fertilisation and selection by horticulturists, many of the common flowers being improved beyond recognition.
I have to acknowledge the assistance of several experts especially in the preparation of the Calendar of Garden Work and lists of plants specially suitable for the North Island.
It is said that gardening is the purest of human pleasures and the greatest refreshment to the spirit of man.
It is hoped that this book will add to the pleasure and profit of many gardeners both amateur and professional, and be a real help to those who pursue horticulture either as an agreeable hobby or as a means of livelihood.
D. TANNOCK
Dunedin.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
The Garden in the Making 1
Hedges 4
Paths 6
The Lawn 6
Preparing the Ground 10
Manures and Manuring 14
Growing Plants from Seed 20
Propagating Plants by Means of Cuttings, Layering, Budding and Grafting 24
Budding and Grafting 24
The Flower Garden 37
The Rose Garden 38
Flower Beds 54
Spring Gardening 62
The Rock, Water, and Bog Garden 70
The Herbaceous Border 78
Special Herbaceous Plants 88
Trees and Shrubs 113
The Bamboo Garden 127
Climbing Plants 128
Native Plants 131
Native Shrubs 136
Alpines and Herbaceous Plants 140
Ferns 142
Potting Soils 143
The Greenhouse 145
The Heated Greenhouse 162
The Vegetable Garden 172
Rotation of Crops 174
Vegetables which can be grown in New Zealand 180
The Fruit Garden 221
Insect and Fungoid Pests 253
Pests in the Vegetable Garden 261
Some Horticultural Formulas for Insecticides and Fungicides 263
Fungicides 263
CONTENTS
PAGE
A Calendar of Garden Work
North Island 266
South Island 277
Appendices.
The Mixing of Fertilisers 287
Calculating Quantities of Fertilisers 288
Special Manures for Fruit Trees 289
Table of Manures for Vegetables 290
Manures for Special Subjects 291
Spraying as a Means of Controlling Pests and Diseases 291
Spraying Table 292
Alphabetical List of Popular and Botanical Names of Plants 294
Plants 298
Trees and Shrubs with Brilliant Autumn Foliage 298
Trees and Shrubs with Coloured Berries 299
Sweetly-perfumed Flowering Shrubs 300
Spring-flowering Shrubs 301
Hardy Perennial Plants for Herbaceous Borders 302
List of New Zealand Ferns 303
Index 304
SOME OF THE USEFUL DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT.
Garden plans, 2
Building a stone wall, 3, 4
Planting a hedge, 5
Distributing grass seed evenly, 7
An easily made weed cradicator, 8
Trenching, 10, 12
AiUUVUIUg, Ridging, 11
Varying depth by angle of spade, 13
Refuse box, 16
Raising plants from seed, 20
Distributing seed evenly, 22
Removing plants from pots, 23
Hastening germination, 24
Plunging cuttings in frame, 25
Striking shrub cuttings, 26
Propagating by cuttings, 27 —r. oo
Striking cuttings, 28
Propagating by root cuttings, 30
Grafting, 32
Budding, 35
A pergola, 40
Design for rose garden, 41
Planting roses, 42
Pruning roses, 43, 44, 45
Style of label, 46
Preparing manure water, 48
Shading exhibition blooms, 49
Budding a standard rose, 51
Circular flower bed, 55
Oval flower bed, 56
Hardening off bedding-out plants, 58
Dividing a root, 64
Planting bulbs in grass, 65
Planting ranunculi, 66
Dibber v. trowel, 68, 69
Section through rock garden, 71, 72
Circular garden pool, 75
Drifts of plants in herbaceous border, 79
Plans for borders, 81, 82
Dividing Michaelmas daisy, 83
Staking and tying chrysanthemums, 84
Cloches, 88
Rooting delphinium cutting, 89
Dividing flag iris, 91 T -1 _ _ 1 i ; ni
Lily scale-producing bulbs, 91
Planting gladioli bulbs, 95
Trench for sweet peas, 98
Seed-raising for sweet peas, 98
Transplanting sweet peas, 99
Propagating dahlias, 101
Disbudding dahlias, 103
lyiouuuum;; uamicu, xuj Layering carnation, 107
Cross-fertilising carnations, 108
Viola cuttings, 110
Cutting showing four months’ growth, 116
Sharpening hedge shears, 117
Training climbers by tripod, 129
Layering wistaria, 130
Sterilising soil, 143
Stack of potting loam, 144
Protection for plants during winter, 145
Ventilating of greenhouse, 146
Raising begonias, 148
Testing condition of flower pot, 149
Propagating chrysanthemums, 151
Taking chrysanthemum buds, 152
Training cascade chrysanthemums, 153
Raising geranium cuttings, 155, 156
Potting cyclamen, 158
Growing bulbs in fibre, 161, 162
Raising plants from leaf cuttings, 164
IUT Watering a fern, 166
\YdlCUllg d IUU, i-VJ'J Sharpening a spade, 173
Dusting fertilisers, 174
Sowing seed in rows, 177
Protecting seeds from birds, 179
Hotbeds and frames, 181
Planting asparagus, 183
Planting broad beans, 184
Training runner beans, 186
Sowing dwarf beans, 187
Mulching, 188
Planting cabbages, 190
Blind cabbage, 191
Thinning carrots, 192
i miimiig uuiuw, A-ji. ■ Planting celery, 193, 194
Planting leeks, 199
Planting lettuces, 200
SOME OF THE USEFUL DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT
■Growing mushrooms, 201, 202
Ripening onions, 203
Storing onions, 204
Growing parsnips for exhibition, 205
Planting peas, 206
Supporting peas, 207
Sprouting potatoes, 208
Trenching and hoeing potatoes, 210
digging and pitting potatoes, 211
Planting and forcing rhubarb, 213
Forcing seakale, 215
Planting tomatoes in boxes, 217
Defoliating tomatoes, 218
Training tomatoes, 219
Male and female marrow flowers, 220
Sowing marrow seed, 220
Quincunx planting, 221
Training fruit trees, 223
Setting-board for tree planting, 224
Bark ringing, 224
Root pruning, 226, 229
iVWI, UUlllg, .. Pruning, 227
Cabinet for storing fruit, 228
Building framework of tree, 230 Cuttings, 232
Winter pruning of red currants, 233
Pruning bush fruits, 234
Striking gooseberry cuttings, 235
Pruning pears, 240
Pruning and training raspberries, 242
Planting strawberries, 243, 244
Section of vinery, 249
Pruning a vine. 249
‘Shanking” a vine, 250
Thinning grapes, 251
Diseases of fruit, 255
Scab, 257
Club root, 262
Manure mixing chart, 287
Dwarf Aster. Sutton’s Bedding.
Papaver nudicaule. Iceland Poppy.
£i]
Coreopsis Drummondii.
Petunia, fringed single. Good bedding variety.
CEnothera amoena (Godetia).
Nemesia strumosa Suttoni.
Zinnia elegans.
Scabiosa grandiflora.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING.
It is often remarked that though much thought is given to the design of the house, little or none is given to the garden, which forms its setting, and what would often be a pretty picture is more or less spoiled for the want of forethought. I have no desire to dictate to anyone how he should design his garden, for after all a garden is a place in which the owner takes his or her pleasure, and it should conform to some extent to the owner’s ideals; in other words, a garden should have an individuality. Circumstances such as the size and shape of the section, and the means of the owner vary greatly, so that it is impossible to lay down hard and fast rules; but one can indicate the main principles which govern all garden design.
When contemplating the layout of a new garden or the remodelling of an old one, one should prepare a plan of some kind, setting out the work in a progressive way, so that each part when completed will harmonise with that already carried out, and the whole will form a satisfactory scheme.
There are many styles of garden planning, and while it is possible to lay out a large garden with sections for each special purpose, such as a rose garden, herbaceous border, formal flower garden, rock and water garden, in the small garden it may be necessary either to specialise in one or two features, or to have a composite garden wherein as many as possible of the various types of plants are represented.
Although the general design is really a matter of taste, wherever possible it should be made to conform to the character and general condition of the situation, every natural feature being taken into account. If the site is undulating, thereby providing conditions suitable for a large and varied number of plants, advantage should be taken of these undulations, and planting arranged so as to
1
B
PRACTICAL GARDENING
2
Higher End
No. 11.
No. I.
No. I. This plan would be suitable for a long town section, and provides for both flowers and vegetables with suitable lawns. The path through the front lawn could be omitted. Climbing roses on a rustic fence could separate the vegetables from the flowers. A sweet pea fence or espalier fruit trees could be substituted for the roses. A hedge of Escallonia or Olearia Fosteri could form the boundary on one side.
No ll.—This plan would be suitable for a sloping site, the house occupying the higher position. A low rustic fence would separate the lawn with its surrounding flower borders from the rose garden, and on it climbing or rambler roses could be grown. The rose beds are surrounded by paved paths and there is really no need to have grass at all, if more roses are desired. The long path would be a suitable place for a pergola, which would provide a vista the whole length of the garden. This plan provides a good view of the garden from the house as well as a good view of the house from the garden.
3
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
intensify the mounds and hollows. It is said that the next most difficult thing to shifting heaven is to shift earth, and it should never be done if it can be avoided. If the site is level, it is better to adopt a more or less formal design, introdticing crazy paving and lily ponds where possible.
Section through a retaining wall in a garden to show the amount of space saved by building stone walls instead of earthen banks.
When deciding the position of a new house, one should give due consideration to trees and bushes already in existence, and these should not be removed if it is possible to save them.
One of the primary considerations in the laying out of a garden is to provide congenial soil and situations for all the plants, and to plan in such a way that the boundaries are more or less concealed and the garden looks much larger than it really is. It is said “that a garden well concealed is a garden well revealed, and that he wins all points who also pleasingly confounds, surprises, varies, and conceals the bounds.”
One point which cannot be too strongly emphasised is the need for thorough trenching or cultivation of the whole garden, but if this is too big an order, certainly the beds, borders, vegetable and fruit sections should be so
4
PRACTICAL GARDENING
treated. This is much easier to accomplish before any planting is undertaken, and though it is hard work, its value will be demonstrated in the improved growth of trees, shrubs, and all other plants later on.
Building a rock wall. If the rocks are small it is advisable to anchor the lower stones in a trench and build the upper ones with a cant inwards.
Hedges.—The question of hedges and fences is one which has to be decided at an early stage, for though the practice of leaving front gardens open to view from the street is to be commended, shade, shelter, and protection from wind and stray dogs have to be considered. Live hedges are more satisfactory than board fences, and for a quick growing hedge inside a wire fence there is little better than Olearia Forsteri; but where there is no protecting fence, holly is to be preferred.
Where shelter is the main consideration and there is plenty of space Cupressus macrocarpa or Lawson’s Cypress can be planted, but in a small garden these impoverish the ground for a considerable extent in their vicinity. The position the hedge is to occupy should be trenched three feet wide and two feet deep, and if the soil is poor, manure should be added. Olearias and other medium growing plants are put out at 20 inches apart, and hollies and strong growers at two feet apart. Too thick planting means overcrowding later on.
5
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
The following are suitable hedge plants for the seaside and town gardens Olearia Forsteri, 0. Traversii, 0. stellata. White Escallonia, Holly, Yew. For inland and
Planting a hedge on a raised bank. A—Broken up sub-soil and manure. B —Top-soil.
How to plant a live hedge in a wide trench near but not too dose to a fence.
colder districts —Privet, Hornbeam, Beech, and Silver birch. For small dividing hedges, Lonicera nitida and box are suitable.
6
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Paths.—The formation of paths is also a question which has to be considered at an early stage, and wherever possible these should be so graded that steps will be unnecessary. Except for strictly formal designs, the paths should follow a gently curving outline.
The main path or drive should skirt the lawn, thereby leaving a respectable stretch of grass, for the effect of a good lawn is often spoiled by cutting it in two.
In forming paths, drainage is most important, and when the soil is heavy, it is an advantage to excavate to a depth of 18 inches to 2 feet and fill in with brickbats, stones, or clinkers to near the surface. A topping of a few inches of gravel, fine ashes, or fine screenings will be quite suitable for ordinary paths, but around the house it is better to lay down asphalt or concrete.
During recent years crazy paving has become fashionable, and certainly it is in keeping with a formal design. After laying the foundation, a layer of sand or fine ashes is put down, and in this the stones or concrete slabs are firmly embedded, sufficient spaces being left between them for the cultivation of dwarf spreading and alpine plants. To provide for the plants, holes are dug in the sand or ashes and suitable soil put in.
THE LAWN.
It is the ambition of most people to possess a lawn no matter how small it may be, and certainly a stretch of green grass, free from weeds, is very restful to the eye, and forms a suitable setting for the house and flower garden. The appearance of a lawn is often spoiled by cutting all sorts of meaningless shaped beds in it, or by planting it thickly with trees and shrubs. Provided a lawn is of considerable extent it is permissible to plant a few formal evergreens, a few specimen deciduous trees, or horizontal or weeping specimens. Such trees provide shade and shelter from strong sun during the summer and break the force of the wind during the autumn and winter.
Preparation.—Before sowing down a new lawn the ground should be trenched and drained if it is at all heavy
7
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
and retentive. It is an advantage to take off a crop of potatoes the first year to free the soil from weeds and to bring it into a suitable state of cultivation. The potatoes will be dug in time to get the ground levelled, firmed, and sown down in the autumn, which is the best season. When preparing for sowing first level the ground, then tramp or roll it, level it again, and lastly rake off stones and lumps so as to make the surface fine.
To ensure an even distribution of grass seed in sowing a lawn, divide the lawn and the seed into the same number of equal parts.
Sowing.—Grass seeds are very small, and must be covered very lightly. If the soil is at all rough or wet and sticky, it is better to have a heap of fine, light, sifted and sterilised soil for covering the seed. Sowing should be done on a calm day, and to get even distribution it is better to separate the area into strips of 3 ft. wide by means of pegs and the garden line. Divide the seed into as many portions as there are strips. Sow the seed by hand, taking care to spread it as evenly as possible over the surface. The seed should not be covered to a greater depth than a quarter of an inch; otherwise it will be lost. If the soil is light and free this operation can be done by raking it all over carefully both ways, but it is better to dust it over with a quarter inch of the prepared soil, and then to level with the back of the rake. If the soil is dry it can be rolled
8
PRACTICAL GARDENING
with a light roller, but it is better to wait until the seedlings appear before any rolling is done. If the lawn is small it is better to obtain a lawn grass mixture from a seedsman and to sow it at the rate of one ounce to the square yard as a minimum, or two ounces as a maximum. It is a mistake to stint the seed, however, and ounces would be a good average to use. Lawn grass mixtures are made up with or without perennial ryegrass, but to get quick results it is better to include a portion of this species. A good mixture for an ordinary lawn could be made up of 3 lb. perennial ryegrass, 1 lb. chewing’s fescue, 1 lb. crested dogstail, and
An easily made weed eradieator for lawns. A is a piece of metal tubing of suitable diameter, fitted with a wooden plunger a little longer than the tube, with a knob on the top for ease in handling. The plunger should be an easy sliding fit in the tube. The tube is placed over the weed and pressed down; as the tube enters the soil the plunger is pushed out at the top. If now withdrawn with a twisting motion, the weed is withdrawn as at B. The weed and soil are ejected by pushing down the plunger as at C. The easiest way to refill the hole left in the lawn is to push the eradieator with the plunger raised into a flower bed; on placing over the hole, press down the plunger and the hole is neatly filled. A box or barrow of soil will save many steps in refilling holes when a large area is being dealt with.
1 lb. brown top. If the soil is light and likely to dry out during the summer lb. of suckling clover and 4 lb. of yarrow could be added. This mixture should be sown at the rate of ounces per square yard.
If the soil is sour or heavy, give a good dressing of lime, and unless it is very rich give a dressing of blood and
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
30
bone manure at the rate of 2 ounces to the square yard. In autumn the young grass should appear in about five to ten days, in spring from fourteen to twenty-one days.
When the young grass is about H inches high it should be rolled with a light roller, and when 2 inches high it can be cut with a scythe or a sharp mower set high. From this stage onwards regular rolling and mowing operations should be carried out, except during the winter or when the surface soil is wet.
Weeds.—Even though the seed be pure and the ground as clean as possible, all manner of weeds are sure to appear, but all the broad-leaved ones will disappear with regular mowing except those like daisies, plantains, cape weeds, and dandelions, all of which have leaves which keep close down to the ground. These can be killed by applications of lawn sand or a mixture of 5 lb. sulphate of ammonia, -J lb. sulphate of iron, and 5 lb. fine sand. This is dusted over the top of these weeds or broadcasted if they are too numerous to be dealt with individually. It will not only destroy the weeds but will stimulate the growth of the grass. A dressing of this mixture at the rate of 1 ounce per square yard at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks throughout the summer will keep the lawn free from weeds, and maintain regular growth.
Maintenance,—Owing to hard usage, poverty of the soil, inadequate drainage, or the attacks of insect pests, old lawns require renovating either in the autumn or in the spring. If a lawn has been subjected to hard usage the surface should be pricked up with a fork and a sowing of grass seed at the rate of \ ounce to the square yard should be made. A dressing of blood and bone manure at the rate of 2 ounces to the square yard may be given, and finally a top-dressing of about a quarter inch of fine soil should be dusted over the surface. If the lawn becomes mossy it should be raked and cross raked with a steel rake, a good dressing of lime should be given, some fresh seed sown, and a top-dressing of fine soil and manure applied.
The grass grub is very troublesome, and should it appear give a good dressing of “Kestar”; then rake off the loose
10
PRACTICAL GARDENING
grass, sow fresh seed and give a top-dressing of fine soil together with a dressing of blood and bone manure as already recommended.
PREPARING THE GROUND.
The advice usually given to beginners in gardening is to trench their ground three feet deep. This is not always necessary, or even desirable. Such a practice would, of course, be all right in the vegetable garden which consists of deep rich mould, and which has been periodically trenched; but to employ this method of treatment on a piece of ground that has only been surface tilled, and rests on a barren subsoil, is most
How to trench garden land.
unwise. Should the second spit—that is, the second spadeful from the surface —of a certain piece of ground not have been worked before, and if the quality is as good as the top spit, it will hold sufficient nutriment for one year’s supply of vegetables and salads. No winter manuring or summer feeding will be needed, there being plenty of food in the hitherto unworked subsoil, but cultivation is required to bring this to life. Such a subsoil only should be brought to the surface. By this method we free more food than by leaving the two spits of soil in their original positions. Weather is the chief agent for setting free the soil food. A cropped top has been weathered, and reversing the spits brings the subsoil
11
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
more under weather influences. The weather does get to a loosened second spit when kept as a second spit, but the action is slower, and not so much of the food in the soil is ever released—chemically changed into forms more readily absorbed by the hair roots of plants. Seed will not germinate easily, nor the fine roots of vegetables flourish, nor the root crops develop in a shapely manner, in a stodgy medium; so a heavy second spit must not be brought to the surface.
The usual method of trenching is to take out a trench from two or three feet wide and two spades deep, and
Bidging dug ground in late autumn to clean and sweeten it. This applies more particularly to heavy soils.
wheel it to the other end of the ground to be trenched. The second trench is measured exactly the same as the first one, and the top spit placed in the bottom of the excavated one. Upon the soil thrown in a dressing of manure is spread, and over that the bottom spit of soil is put, and left as rough as possible so that the weather will sweeten and purify it. If the soil is of a light character some manure can be put right at the bottom of the trench in addition to the layer placed between the two spits.
The process known as double-digging is one that will prove quite efficient for average ground, and it may be briefly described as follows;—If the ground be covered with weeds or grass, skim off a belt of these to the depth
12
PRACTICAL GARDENING
of two inches or so and a width of, say, four feet, and stack them on one side. Take out the soil of one spit (Trench A) and wheel it to the other end of the patch, where it will be required to fill up the last trench. Now dig the bottom of the excavated portion, but leave the soil where it is and mix with it any manure that is going to be applied to the ground. Next shovel in any leaves, weeds, rotted turf or decayed vegetable matter that may be available. Then remove the remaining two feet of
How to save labour in transporting soil when trenching or digging. (The arrows show the direction in which the soil is worked.)
surface soil (Trench B) to one spit down, and fill in the open trench with it; so bringing the surface a little above the original level and opening a new trench. Then proceed as before. The whole process, though it sounds complicated on paper, simply means the transposing and turning over of the upper spit and the digging or loosening of the second, or subsoil. Always leave the surface of trenched or dug soil as rough or lumpy as possible when the work is done during winter, and do not attempt the work when the ground is frozen, or saturated with rain. Stiff or heavy soils can be improved by working in some opening material. It is a good plan also to throw
13
THE GARDEN IN THE MAKING
such land into ridges, which exposes a greater surface to the beneficial effects of the atmosphere. Much unnecessary labour in the matter of wheeling large quantities of soil from one end of the ground to be dug to the other will be avoided if the method illustrated in the accompanying sketch be adopted. A line is first
Showing deeper cultivation with spade held vertically.
Pointing,
drawn down the middle of the plot. Then commencing at A, a trench is taken out across the first half, and the soil from it deposited at E. That half is then dug, the last trench B being filled from C, which forms the first trench of the second half. The final trench D is filled with E, the soil taken out of A.
When digging is being done it should be done in a thorough manner, and any manure being dug in should be well incorporated with the soil as the work proceeds. When digging is deferred till spring all the lumps should be well broken up or the soil will be too loose when warm weather sets in, and capillary attraction will not act in the same degree as it would were the soil in a friable condition.
There is another variety of digging known among gardeners as “pointing.” This consists in pushing the spade in slantwise to the depth of three or four inches, turning the soil over, and replacing it in the place it occupied. The digging fork is sometimes used instead of the spade. This method is usually done in spring when preparing ground, which was dug during winter, for an
35
PRACTICAL GARDENING
early crop. By doing so the manure which was dug in is not brought to the surface. It is also done when cleaning up among the permanent crops such as rhubarb, and occasionally to place some artificial fertiliser a short distance below the surface among growing crops, as there is not the same danger of damaging the roots as when the spade is thrust in the full depth.
MANURES AND MANURING.
There is nothing that exercises the mind of the amateur gardener more than the application of suitable manures to meet the requiremnts of the various crops, whether fruits, flowers, or vegetables. Many plants are damaged by over feeding and over watering, and it is just as serious a mistake to apply too much as too little manure, especially to those plants with a restricted root run.
To continue to take crops from the same soil in regular succession soon exhausts its fertility, and unless that which is taken away is replaced, the soil will soon become non-productive.
Manures are grouped under two separate headings—natural and chemical (artificial) —one being in most cases a general fertiliser, supplying all the wants of the plant, the other being fertilisers containing one or more special elements.
NATURAL MANURES.
The most common natural manure is that known as farmyard manure. This should be carefully collected, stored under cover, and not allowed to ferment. On being applied in sufficient quantity it will supply plants with all the stimulation they require. It has also the advantage of having an important mechanical influence on the soil, assisting it to retain supplies of moisture and soluble plant food, opening up stiff soils, and binding together loose sandy soils thereby rendering them more suitable for the penetration of the tender rootlets, and increasing their power of absorbing heat. Wherever possible, farmyard manure, compost heap, leaf mould, or green dressings should be applied to the vegetable garden for at least some of the
MANURES AND MANURING
36
crops, about half the area being manured in this way every year. It is also necessary to manure the nursery and flower garden every year, but not so heavily.
The value of farmyard manure depends on the kind of animal stabled, the litter used, and the manner in which it is stored. As a rule, however, well-rotted cow manure is more valuable for the vegetable garden than for flowers. Horse manure is specially valuable for making hotbeds, and mushroom beds, and for all kinds of flowers and fruits.
That obtained from the stable where straw litter is used is ever so much more valuable than that where sand is used. Sheep manure is very strong, and is better used for making liquid, or for mixing with leaf mould, or the compost heap. Fowl manure is also very valuable when it is collected dry, mixed with dry soil or gypsum, and kept in a dry condition. It is valuable for making liquid, and for top-dressing quick growing crops.
As a rule it is better to apply fresh stable manure to heavy soil in the autumn, and well-rotted manure to light soil in the spring. Owing to the difficulty of getting supplies of farmyard manure in towns, it is often advisable to grow crops of some kind to dig in as green dressing, to replace the organic matter in the soil. These may be blue lupins, mustard, Italian ryegrass, or any plant which will make rapid growth, though those which bear pea pods are the best. These crops are cut as they are coming into flower, left to wilt for a day, and then dug in or used for mulching.
Leaf mould is a very valuable ingredient of all potting soils, but where plentiful it can also be dug into the garden. Leaves are collected as they fall, stored in a heap, and after a year turned over, being then ready for use. Pine needles, though they do not rot quickly, are very valuable for opening up heavy ground which has been freely limed. They do not, as some people imagine, poison the soil.
Liquid Manure. —This is made by putting a bushel or more of a mixture of cow, horse, sheep, and fowl manure into a coarse sack and soaking it in a barrel of water for a few days. If possible, it is better to have separate barrels for each kind, when they can he applied either pure or mixed. Liquid manure should never be used strong, about
PRACTICAL GARDENING
37
the colour of weak tea being best, and should never be applied to plants while they are dry at the roots. It is a readily available food for plants, and is best applied as they are forming flower buds or when they are making rapid growth of stem or leaf.
Lime.—Though lime is not strictly a manure but rather a soil improver, it is one of the most valuable substances that can be applied to the garden. It is suitable for all plants with the exception of heaths, rhododendrons, and shrubs of that nature, also some lilies and primulas. It helps to make certain soil constituents available to plants, it fosters the growth of useful soil organisms, and it exerts a powerful influence in controlling fungoid and some insect pests. It has a considerable influence in removing
Garden refuse box with detachable front for compost heal
acidity from wet sour land, binding together loose sandy soils, and opening up stiff clay ones. The most convenient form in which to apply it is as crushed burnt lime, this being easy to distribute in reasonable applications. As it slakes in the soil it has a greater influence than ordinary crushed carbonate or slaked lime. The best time to apply lime is when preparing the soil for crops; after this, occasional dustings can be given as the plants develop. Small applications frequently are better than large quantities given at long intervals. Apply at the rate of from two to three ounces per square yard. This amount may be increased for fresh soils.
Wood Ashes. —The ashes from wood fires are most valuable, as they not only supply potash to the plants, but the small particles of charcoal which are always present, exer-
Malope trifida. Mallow wort.
Helichrysum bracteatum. Everlasting Daisy.
Salpiglossis variabilis.
Centaurea cyanus. Corn Flower.
CEnothera amoena. Godetia.
Nigella damascena. Love-in-a-Mist
Daffodils naturalised in the meadows at ‘ * Otahuna, ’ ’ Tai Tapu.
MANURES AND MANURING
40
cise a beneficial influence on the soil. They should be collected when dry, stored in a dry place, and applied either during or after planting or sowing.
Compost Heap. —When its constituents are well rotted the compost heap provides valuable material for digging into the soil or for mulching plants. The heap can he placed in some out-of-the-way corner, and on it all vegetable matter from the flower and vegetable garden, as well as all vegetable refuse from the kitchen should be deposited. In fact, any matter that will rot easily should never be burnt unless it is infested with disease. The heap should be covered with soil from time to time, and dusted with lime or gypsum.
Bone Meal. —-This is a general manure, though phosphate is its special constituent. It becomes available slowly, and is valuable for plants which occupy the ground for a long period, and for mixing with potting soils. It should be applied at the rate of two ounces to the square yard in spring or while planting or sowing.
Blood and Bone. —The mixture that goes by this name is more of a general manure than bone meal, as it supplies both phosphate and nitrogen. It is valuable alike for fruit, flowers, and vegetables, and should be applied at the rate of two ounces to the square yard while the plants are in growth, or while planting or sowing.
Guano. —This is really dried and compressed bird manure and is valuable as a general manure for all growing crops. A convenient liquid manure is made from it by dissolving 1 oz. in a gallon of water; it is useful for all pot plants.
CHEMICAL MANURES.
These supply one or two of the essential ingredients in the food of plants in a more or less readily available form, and though not sufficient in themselves to maintain fertility for long, they are a very valuable supplement to farmyard or other natural manure.
Nitrogenous Manures.
Nitrogen is the most valuable and most expensive of the chemicals which plants require. It is very important in c
18
PRACTICAL GARDENING
the early stages of the development of plants, and is specially valuable for those which are grown for their stems and leaves.
Sulphate of Ammonia is a popular nitrogen-supplying manure, which is best applied as a top-dressing when plants are in full growth by dusting it over the surface and hoeing it in; it may be used as a liquid manure by dissolving one ounce in a gallon of water.
Nitrate of Soda is also an important nitrogenous manure and probably quicker in action than sulphate of ammonia. It is applied as a top-dressing at the rate of one ounce to the square yard. It is sometimes mixed with other chemicals to make a general manure. On no account should either of these fertilisers he allowed to come in contact with the foliage.
Phosphatic Manures.
These are essential for the active growth of all plants, especially vegetable and fruit crops. The usual commercial superphosphate is slightly acid, and for vegetable crops, especially in wet gardens, it is better to apply lime along with it, or to use basic phosphate, in which there is no free acid. Superphosphate becomes available more slowly than nitrogenous manures, and should therefore be applied when preparing the ground for crops or when sowing or planting. It may also be applied as a top-dressing in the early stages of the development of the plants. Apply at the rate of one ounce to the square yard.
Potash Manures.
Potash is an important substance, specially useful for crops which are grown for their fruits or seeds, or for such root crops as potatoes. It also has an important bearing on the power which plants have of resisting fungoid diseases, such as mildew on roses. As it becomes available slowly it is an important ingredient of all general manures, and it should be applied at the time of preparing the soil for a crop or when sowing or planting. It is obtainable in the form of kainit or muriate or sulphate of potash.
MANURES AND MANURING
42
Sulphate op Iron.
This is seldom necessary as a manure, though it is a valuable ingredient of lawn fertilisers, and has an influence on the development of colour in both flowers and foliage. It is applied during active growth.
SPECIAL MIXTURES.
Several manufacturers make up special mixtures, either for general use in small gardens, or for special crops, such as grass, turnips, and potatoes. There are also certain general fertilisers, such as Clay’s, Standen’s, and Thomson’s vine and plant manure, all of which are very valuable and convenient, though sometimes rather expensive. Those who desire to do so can buy the ingredients and mix up special manures for themselves according to the following formulas:—,
Roses—Tonks’ Mixture.—This consists of superphosphate, 12 lb.; kainit, 10 lb. ; sulphate of magnesia, 2 lb.; sulphate of iron, 1 lb.; gypsum, 8 lb. Apply at the rate of four ounces to the square yard.
Tomatoes—2 lb. superphosphate; 1 lb. nitrate of potash; f lb. sulphate of ammonia. Apply at the rate of 1 lb. to 10 square yards.
Bush Fruits. —Superphosphate, 3 lb.; kainit, 1 lb; nitrate of soda, 2 lb. Apply at the rate of four ounces to the square yard in spring.
Raspberries—Superphosphate, 6 lb.; kainit, 1 lb. Apply at the rate of four ounces to the square yard.
There is no doubt that the best results are obtained by applying farmyard manure or compost heap when digging or trenching in the winter, supplementing this by applications of the special manures in spring or when planting or sowing, followed by judicious applications of nitrogenous manures as top-dressings, or as liquid manure, while plants are in full growth. Little advantage is gained by applying manures while the plants are developing their fruit or seeds, unless it may be to secure growth for the next season.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
20
GROWING PLANTS FROM SEED
The cross fertilisation or pollinating of flowers, saving of seeds, raising seedlings, and the selection of the best varieties for further seed production, is an interesting operation, and one which adds very much to the pleasure and profit of gardening. Specially selected seeds from extra good strains are always in demand at good prices, the climate of New Zealand is admirably suitable for the growing and ripening of seeds, and it is possible to raise still further the standard of either flowers, fruits, or vegetables.
By kind permission o) the publishers of “The Garden
Raising plants from seeds.
Cross fertilising consists of the transferring of the pollen from the anthers of one flower to the stigma of another, the anthers being on the pollen-bearing plant, and the stigma on the seed-bearing parent. The plants crossed must be closely related, being either varieties of the same species or species of the same genus. Crosses have been made between different genera, but this is not common.
Both parents should be selected for some special characteristic such as hardiness, habit of growth, earliness of flowering or maturing of the crop, robustness, freedom from disease, scent, intensity of colour, shape of the flower, or freedom of blooming. If a vegetable or fruit is to be
GROWING PLANTS FROM SEED
21
crossed, earliness, hardiness, freedom of fruiting, flavour, cropping, or freedom from disease are the characteristics to be aimed at.
Though it is not the general rule for flowers to be selffertilised, there is always a danger of this happening, and when it is desired to obtain definite results, certain precautions have to be taken.
To prevent undesirable pollen from reaching the stigma, the flower is enclosed in a muslin or paper bag, or the whole plant is covered with gauze. To prevent self-pollination the anthers of the flowers to be operated upon are removed before they burst or shed their pollen grains. The flower is then covered as described until the stigma is in a receptive condition. The stigma should be examined with a hand lens, and as soon as it appears sticky, the pollen should be conveyed to it, and dusted over it by means of a small camel hair brush. The flower should be isolated again until the stigma withers and the ovary shows signs of development.
As a rule plants which are well fed and liberally watered refrain from setting seeds, and when good crops of seed are the objective, the plants should be half starved and their supply of water reduced.
When a cross is made the seed-bearing parent should be marked with a label on which the names of both parents and the date of pollination are written. A similar entry should be made in a notebook for future reference. In the case of some flowers, such as Primulas, in which self-pollination is unlikely and the visits of insects improbable, it is unnecessary to isolate the flowers, but it is essential to mark the plants pollinated.
With a number of plants, such as Anemones and Ranunculi cross pollination can be left to nature, but only the most desirable colours should be marked for seed.
As many plants have means of their own for distributing their seeds, the seed vessels have to be collected before they burst open. If the stalks with the seed vessels attached are collected, even if they are not quite ripe, enclosed in paper bags, and hung up in a dry airy place, the ripening process will be completed, and the seeds will fall out into the bag.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Plants which anyone can work on with satisfactory results are—Anemones, Begonias, Calceolarias, Carnations, Cyclamen, Gladioli, Gloxinias, Liliums, Narcissi, Pinks, Poppies, Primrose polyanthus, Primulas, Ranunculi, Rhododendrons, Sehizanthus, Streptocarpus, and all kinds of fruits and vegetables.
Seed Sowing.—Nature provides for seed sowing as soon as the seeds are ripe. While this no doubt is the correct
To obtain a thin, even distribution of seed first mix it with dry sand and then shake it from a fold of paper by tapping the latter gently with a pencil.
time for sowing, it is not always practicable or convenient to do so, and many seeds have to be kept until the spring or summer. Wherever possible, however, it is better to sow as soon as they are ripe. This rule applies specially to Anemones, Celmisias, Ranunculi, and most hardy perennial and alpine plants. Fresh seeds germinate more quickly, the seedlings are stronger, the plants are healthier, and are not so susceptible to attacks of blights. Seeds of trees and shrubs which have a fleshy coating should be rubbed and mixed with wood ashes, which will remove the pulp, after which they can be sown at once or stored in damp sand until the spring. Imported seeds often take a long time to germinate, and unless one knows that the seeds in question soon lose their germinating power, the contents
GROWING PLANTS FROM SEED
46
of the seed pots should not be discarded for at least twelve months after sowing.
The conditions necessary for the successful germination of seeds are moisture, fresh air, and a certain degree of warmth. These conditions are easily provided in the open during the summer and early autumn. The seedlings thus raised will become sufficiently strong and deep-rooted to stand through the winter. The seed bed should be made in an open, sunny, well-drained position. If the soil is heavy it is better to excavate it to a depth of 18 inches, to put in a
How to remove plants from pots,
layer of clinkers or ashes for drainage, and to make up the bed with a light soil mixture which has been sterilised, if possible. It is also advisable to erect a framework over the bed and to shade it until the seedlings appear. If there is any danger of the seedlings being lifted out of the ground by frost the bed can be covered with scrim, straw, or twiggy scrub during the winter.
When seeds are sown under glass in pots or boxes, the soil should be one which will admit the maximum amount of air and retain the maximum amount of water. It should be fine but not rich. Fairly poor soil encourages the
24
PRACTICAL GARDENING
development of fibrous roots, and a limited development of stem and leaf. Such seedlings transplant readily, and quickly root in the richer soil into which they have been planted. A suitable mixture for the majority of seeds is one made up of two parts turfy loam, one part leaf mould, and half a part clean sharp sand. This mixture is passed through a half inch sieve, and a small portion is put through a fine sieve for topping the pots and boxes and covering the seeds.
The methods employed in the sowing of seeds are described in chapters dealing with the various kinds of plants.
A square of glass (or scrim) may be used to hasten the germination of seeds.
PROPAGATING PLANTS BY MEANS OF CUTTINGS. LAYERING, BUDDING, AND GRAFTING.
When it is necessary to increase the stock of a special garden variety which will not come true from seed, some vegetative method of reproduction has to be resorted to. If such plants can be rooted from cuttings this method of propagation is adopted. There are four more or less distinct types of cuttings—
(1) Softwood or herbaceous.
(2) Ripened hardwood.
(3) Half-ripened hardwood.
(4) Root cuttings.
PRO PAG A TION
48
Softwood or Herbaceous Cuttings.—The following are some of the plants usually grown from cuttings;— Geraniums, pelargoniums, chrysanthemums, pansies, violas, pentstemons, dahlias, marguerites, pinks, and many of the hardy and greenhouse herbaceous plants. These can be conveniently divided into two classes.
(1) Those which are put in without heat in late summer and autumn; and
(2) Those which are put in in heat in winter and spring.
Cuttings may be rooted in a box plunged in a frame.
In every case young well-developed and well-ripened growths are selected. These should also he free from disease, and true to the type to be perpetuated. The cuttings are taken oil with a heel if possible; if not, they are cut across immediately below a joint or node and the lower leaves which would he buried in the soil are removed. As geraniums are usually very sappy and liable to damp off, cuttings are often left to dry a bit after being made. They are inserted in pots or boxes of sandy soil, and placed in a frame or cool greenhouse, given plenty of air, and kept on the dry side until they form roots.
Pansies and violas, and many of the alpine and herbaceous cuttings can he inserted in special beds made by
49
PRACTICAL GARDENING
excavating the soil to a depth of a foot, putting in about six inches of clinker or brickbats, covering this with a layer of leaves or turfy soil, and then putting on about four inches of cutting soil, with a layer of clean sand on top.
To prevent the cuttings from wilting and to protect them during the winter, the bed is covered with a framework over which scrim is tacked. They can also be put into boxes and placed in a cold frame, or on the shady side of a hedge. By spring the cuttings will have rooted, when the covering can be removed to harden up the growth in preparation for planting out.
Striking shrub cuttings in a trench lined with sand in the nursery. Part ol the trench has still to be tilled in.
Chrysanthemums are usually put into small pots and placed in a box or frame in a warm greenhouse, and covered with a sheet of glass to prevent wilting. Dahlias, hydrangeas, and other cuttings put in in spring are usually inserted in a hotbed, which stimulates the development of the callus and the formation of roots.
With the exception of geraniums and pelargoniums, softwood cuttings should not be allowed to wilt, and to prevent this they are kept in a moist atmosphere, and shaded from the sun until rooting has taken place. A cutting soil is one which will admit the maximum amount of air and retain the maximum amount of moisture. One composed of clean loam, leaf mould, and sharp sand in equal proportions will be suitable for most plants. A layer of clean sand is placed on top, and the cuttings are made as firm as
27
PROPAGATION
By kind permission of the publishers of “The Garden."
How to propagate bedding plants by cuttings.
The stem of the cutting as shown at A must be severed with a sharp knife just below a joint, and also the lower leaf or leaves, as shown at B. In most cuttings, the lower leaves are best cut off; in the case of zonal pelargoniums they are best pulled off, likewise all scales, as these invariably decay in the soil and destroy the whole cutting.
C—shows correct manner of crocking a pot; D—crocks; E—soil in the pot; F—sand on the surface; G—the right kind of heliotrope with a basal shoot selected as a cutting; H—cutting ready for insertion; I—stick to make holes with; J—illustrates bottom of cutting box, with holes and strips of wood to keep the box off the ground; Ja—section of box prepared for the compost; K—cuttings in boxes in a frame; L—boxes on a stage in a greenhouse; M—pots on side shelves; NN—pots on suspended shelves in a span-roofed house; o—sand round the base of a cutting; P—the callus formed prior to growth of roots.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
possible. When inserted in pots they are placed round the edge and not in the middle.
Plants with thick fleshy leaves, such as Begonias, Gloxinias, Streptocarpus, etc., can be grown from leaf cuttings. The main ribs of the leaf are cut across at intervals, and the leaf pegged down on a hotbed. The bottom heat required for rooting cuttings can be provided by a hotbed of fermenting materials, hot water pipes, or by the newer system of electrical heating. Some plants, such as Californian and Oriental poppies, which have fleshy roots, can be grown from root cuttings.
Striking cuttings. A—Sand. B —Water. O —Crocks for drainage.
Hardwood Cuttings.— I These consist of well-ripened well-developed pieces of wood of the previous season’s growth, and they should be from 9 to 12 inches in length, not too thin and wiry, nor too thick and pithy. They are taken with a heel of the old wood, or cut across immediately below a node, and in the case of evergreens the young unripened tip of the shoot is removed. They are inserted in a well-drained open part of the garden, in a trench about six to nine inches deep, so that about three parts of the cutting will be buried in the ground. To provide good drainage and suitable conditions for rooting a layer of sand or lime rubble is placed in the bottom of the trench and the base of the cutting is placed on this. The soil is put in and tramped as firmly as possible. Plants which can be grown from ripened hardwood cuttings are
PROPAGATION
29
gooseberries, currants, dog roses, or other plants required for stocks, rambler and climbing roses, Senecios, Olearias, Escallonias, willows, poplars, and a great many other native and exotic trees and shrubs.
Half-ripe Hardwood Cuttings.—These consist of the ripened tips of branches of trees and shrubs and this method of propagating is very suitable for thin twiggy small shrubs like boronias, heaths, and small-leaved rhododendrons. They are taken in the autumn, and are usually about two or three inches in length. They are prepared in the usual way, and are prevented from wilting both before and after they are inserted.
One method is to insert them in a cold frame, in a bed made up of six inches of clinkers for drainage, and four inches of sand and leaf mould in equal parts, with a layer of clean sand an inch deep on top. The cuttings are dibbled in firmly, well watered, and the sash put on and kept on until roots are formed. It is never opened to admit air or to let out moisture. If no frame is available, the cuttings are put into a prepared bed and covered with a bellglass or hand light. Cuttings of this kind are sometimes put into pots, which are plunged in a bed of coke breeze or fine ashes, in a cold frame, the lights being kept on continuously. As there is little to support growth in the sand and leaf mould mixture, the cuttings are potted up as soon as roots are formed. In this way the heaths, Boronias, Rhododendrons, conifers, the various kinds of broom, including the native species,—Cistus, Desfontanias, and many evergreen trees and shrubs are propagated.
Layering.—ln some cases where cuttings take a long time to root it is necessary to resort to some method whereby the plant is induced to form roots while still attached to, and obtaining its supply of sap from the parent plant. If a branch is bent down and ringbarked, notched, or twisted, so as to interrupt the downward flow of the elaborated sap, roots will eventually be formed at the bend. This is the method often adopted for propagating Rhododendrons, Magnolias, and a number of ornamental trees and shrubs. The soil is forked up round the plant to be layered, and a quantity of sandy soil mixed with it.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
53
The branch is bent, and at the lowest part it is notched, partly ringbarked, or twisted, then pegged down securely and covered with four to six inches of soil.
Layering is also the most satisfactory method of propagating border carnations. The shoots, called “grass,” which arise round the base of the flower stem, are prepared
Many plants can be easily propagated by means of root cuttings. Examples are Oriental poppies, Statice latifolia, anchusas, phlox, gaillardias, geraniums, etc.
by removing the leaves for a space of two or more joints or nodes and making an upward cut from just below and through a cleaned joint, thus forming a tongue about half an inch in length. The soil about the plant is loosened with a hand fork, some cutting soil is spread round it, and the shoot is securely pegged down into this, care being taken to keep the tongue apart from the stem. The tips of the leaves are cut off to reduce loss of moisture. The returning sap accumulates at the end of the tongue, the cut surface heals up, and soon roots are formed. When rooted the plants are severed from the parent and planted out in their permanent positions, or they are lined out or potted until the spring.
The propagating of plants is at all times an interesting operation, and one experiences a certain pleasure in sharing one’s treasures with others, as well as in increasing the number of good plants in cultivation.
31
PROPAGATION
Because scraps and branches taken off haphazard and at all times and stuck into the ground without preparation, fail to form roots, this need not deter the amateur from making further efforts, and with a little guidance and experience, achieving a reasonable measure of success.
GRAFTING AND BUDDING.
“Grafting,” says Charles Baltet in his book “The Art of Grafting and Budding,” “is an operation which consists in uniting a plant, or portions of a plant, to another which will support it, and furnish it with the nutriment necessary for its growth. The plant which receives the graft should be furnished with roots; it is destined to draw nutriment from the soil and transmit it to the part grafted. It is called the stock. The other plant, or portion of plant, which is grafted on the stock, should have at least one shoot or eye, and be in good condition —that is, not mouldy, nor withered, nor decayed. It is called the graft or scion. In every kind of grafting it is indispensable that the two parts grafted should be in close communication, not by means of the epidermis or the pith, but through the generating layers, that is the new living layer of cambium, the layer of tissue between the bark and the wood. A complete joining is not effected except on this condition.”
The success of grafting depends very much upon speedy and expert manipulation. It is a delightful art to those who can do it well, and the pleasure of a gardener is much heightened if some of his trees are the result of his own skill in grafting. All that is necessary is to make a clean cut, to place the two parts together instantly, to tie them firmly without bruising the barks, and finally to exclude the air by means of some grafting wax or clay. The following are two recipes for graftingwax: —2 lb. mutton tallow, 2 lb. beeswax, 4 lb. resin. 1 lb. beeswax, 5 lb. resin, 1 pint linseed oil, 1 oz. lampblack. These mixtures are made with the aid of gentle heat, and during grafting the wax should be kept warm enough to apply with a small brush. When dealing with small trees, grafting is greatly facilitated by the use of
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Five methods of grafting.
K el way Rose: Caroline Testout.
A Rock Garden in Spring.
A Water-lily pond with setting of Flax, Bamboos and Japanese Iris.
PROPAGATION
58
strips of waxed cloth. This plan is in general use by the orchardists of California.
The scions should be several weeks behind the stocks; in fact, it is best if the grafting be completed before the buds in the scion begin to swell. In selecting shoots for scions, always give preference to sound, fully matured wood, and always use the central portion of the shoots, discarding the tips and bottom ends. The shoots can be cut in July and placed in moist soil on the south side of a wall or fence, where they will keep cool and damp until it is time to use them. Grafting should be done while the sap is in motion, but before it has reached its maximum activity. September and October are the best months for the operation.
Crown Grafting.—For renovating old trees Crown or Rind grafting is the best. The main stem or the larger branches are cut square off some few weeks before grafting, and just before the scions are put in a further portion should he cut off. Two grafts are usually sufficient, though more will be neeesasry if a trunk is used as stock. By the crown grafting method the bark of the stock is cut downwards, from two to three inches. The scion is prepared by tapering two or three inches of the bottom end, making a shoulder to rest on the stock by means of a slight horizontal cut at the point where the downward cut commences. The scion is pushed down between the bark and the wood until the shoulder rests on the stock. The scion should be from four to six inches long, after it is inserted.
Cleft Grafting.—ln this the stock is cut level, and a split made in the exposed end. One or more grafts are then cut to a wedge shape and fitted into the split made in the stock. The joints are then bound up with raffia or any other tying material, and the wounded parts covered with grafting wax or clay to prevent the atmosphere acting on the raw surfaces. It is essential that the inner hark of both stock and scion should be in good contact with each other.
Tongue or Whip Grafting,—This method is generally used when stock and scion are about the same size.
D
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Grafts up to an inch in diameter can be made this way, but it is generally used for smaller wood. The head of the stock should be cut across just above a bud. A rather long sloping cut is next made and in the cut a notch or tongue is made. A corresponding cut and tongue are made in the scion. The latter is then placed on the stock in such a manner that the tongue is inserted in the one on the stock. A slight downward pressure will make the two tongues grip. Care must be taken to secure the proper contact at least on one side of the stock.
Saddle Grafting.—This is another good method when the young stocks are about the size of the grafts. This is done by cutting the stock in the shape of a wedge, then making the graft so as to fit exactly over this, and binding and waxing the whole in the ordinary way.
Side Grafting.—Sometimes the head of the stock is not cut away, and the scion is inserted in the side of the stem or on a branch of the stock. This process is called side grafting.
Grafting by Approach or Inarching is the oldest and most natural means of uniting two trees, or parts of trees. In this case the scion is not stripped of its leaves, as is necessary in the other methods, because it remains attached to its parent until the union has taken place. Grafting by approach is always done when the sap is in full flow. This is the mode adopted for grafting vines when the rods are in full bearing, but are becoming somewhat exhausted.
In all methods of grafting, as the bark swells the ties should be loosened or removed altogether and fresh and looser ones put on. The stocks will probably send out shoots from latent buds, but these can be gradually removed as the shoots from the grafts grow. During the first season scions are liable to be blown out by rough winds. To prevent this each shoot should be given the support of a stake.
Budding.—The main principle of budding is the same as that of grafting. The object is in each case the same, namely the union of a bud of a choice variety with the
PROPAGATION
35
Budding
PRACTICAL GARDENING
61
rooted stock of an inferior but stronger growing sort. It is essential to successful budding that the sap should be flowing freely in the stems from which buds are selected, and for this reason summer is chosen for the work. If a piece of the outer bark of the tree is found, on being gently lifted, to come away easily, this points to a sufficiency of moisture beneath the surface. January and February are the best months in which to do the work.
Fruit trees can be budded fairly close to the ground yet high enough so that the growth from the buds will not strike roots into the soil. The position is shown at No. 1, Fig. B. No. 2 in the same figure shows where the bud should be inserted in bush roses, as they do best when worked an inch or so below ground level. Place for inserting the buds on standard roses is shown in Fig. A. Shield or T budding is the method most usually employed. A T-shaped incision is prepared in the stock, the transverse cut being first made. The latter must be long enough to receive the bud when the time arrives for insertion, and it should be joined immediately by making the long cut upwards, forming the upright stroke of the letter T. Select well-matured shoots for providing the buds, which are the eyes in the axils of the leaves, and should be plump and prominent. Having selected the bud, with a sharp knife cut into the wood, say half an inch above the bud in a downward direction and then in an upward direction about half an inch below the bud, so as to bring away the bud with a thin shield of wood, as in Fig. C. The leaf should be severed as shown in the illustration. The thin slice of wood removed with the bud must now be taken out by inserting the point of the knife and lifting up the lower end as in D, so that it can be pulled away by means of the thumb and knife point. The danger here to be avoided lies, of course, in pulling out the core of the bud at the same time, which would render the whole thing useless. Some budders escape this by leaving the thin slice of wood in. To insert the bud, gently raise the bark on each side of the T incision, using the handle of the budding knife for the work. Next, holding the bud by the leafstalk, insert
THE FLOWER GARDEN
62
it between the bark and the wood, pushing it well in at the top, as shown at letter E. Any portion of the shield projecting above the level of the top of the T must be cut off as shown at F. The whole must now be tied in position with raffia or worsted, allowing the bud to peep out between the ties as at G. The main point is to get the inner barks of the stock and scion into contact as fully as possible and in the quickest time, so that the exposed surfaces have no chance to become dry.
The buds must be examined occasionally, and as they swell the ties must be loosened to give the bark the necessary room for development. Unless budded early the plants are not likely to send out a shoot before the season is over, but will do so the following spring, when the head of the stock can be cut back close to the inserted bud, as soon as a healthy shoot has started from the point of juncture. During the first season damage to the shoots by wind will be prevented by the timely use of stakes.
There are other styles of budding, such as the inverted T, square, and flute budding, but these are not much practised, and need not be dealt with in detail.
THE FLOWER GARDEN
The flower garden is usually designed to form a fitting and artistic setting for the home, but when extensive it may also provide many pleasing and artistic features. The flower garden is sometimes called the open-air room, and when well planted and carefully tended, it can be made a feature of perpetual joy and interest.
A complete flower garden should provide for trees and shrubs, herbaceous borders, formal beds, a rose garden, rock garden, water and bog garden, native garden, azalea garden, and rhododendron dell.
It will be better to deal with these sections separately, mentioning at least a few of the best and most suitable varieties of plants for each.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
THE ROSE GARDEN.
The rose is the queen of flowers, and it is only fitting that it should he considered first. It may be represented by a well-designed garden with a thousand plants or more, by one or more beds in the flower garden, or by only a few plants in the mixed border, but wherever it is planted it is appreciated.
Though roses have been cultivated for centuries, the garden rose as we know it, is of comparatively recent origin. Types are constantly changing, and the varieties which were in cultivation thirty years ago have been superseded by those of a more desirable character. The Hybrid Perpetuals, which were favourites some years back, originated about one hundred years ago, when the perpetually flowering Damask rose was found growing at the palace of St. Cloud. By crossing this rose with Bosa gallica and Rosa indica a race of roses was produced which flowered twice a year, summer and autumn, and was called Hybrid Perpetual. For a long time this type was one of the chief exhibition roses, and, until quite recently, classes were provided for it at all the horticultural shows.
In 1810 a little pink rose was introduced from China, and in 1824 a yellow one from the same country. By crossing these two a new race of roses was produced; this was rather tender, and since its parents had the scent of tea, it was called the Tea rose. This hybrid, like the Hybrid Perpetuals, is now almost out of cultivation.
Over fifty years ago, when the National Rose Society came into existence, a gold medal was awarded for new roses to encourage their production, and growers began to cross the H.p. with the T. varieties. This gave rise to the Hybrid Teas, which are now the most popular, having almost entirely superseded their parents.
In 1838 a little single rose called Bosa lutea, introduced from Persia, was crossed by M. Pernet Ducher with one of the Hybrid Teas to produce a flat, ugly-looking rose called Soliel d’Or. He then crossed this with another Tea and produced Rayon d’Or, which became the forerunner of an entirely new and very popular type of roses called Pernetianas.
39
THE ROSE GARDEN
The Wichuriana types, which are now so popular for pergolas, arches, and rustic fences are also of modern origin.
In 1887 a species with small single white flowers and glossy evergreen foliage was obtained from Japan, and was sold as the Memorial Rose. This was crossed with an old Hybrid perpetual by an American called Perkins, and the result was a new type of rose of which Dorothy Perkins was the forerunner. Recently Mr. Allister Clark, of Melbourne, using Rosa gigantica as one of the parents, has been raising a number of very fine garden roses especially suitable for the Australian and New Zealand climates. These roses are remarkable for the vigour of the plants, their profusion of blooms, and their perpetual flowering habits.
Though many new roses are introduced every year, only a comparatively small number come to stay, and one wonders sometimes why some were ever named at all. Improvements are still going on, however, and some of the novelties exceed the older kinds in colour, size, and perfume.
Roses may be conveniently divided into several classes: —
(1) Bush Roses.—These are most generally cultivated in New Zealand, the varieties being propagated by budding on to such dwarf stocks as the dog rose, the Manetta, the Hybrid Manetta, or Rosa rugosa. The plants, which grow to a height of from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet or more, consist of a number of branches rising from the ground level or just above it.
(2) Standards.—These are budded on stocks with stems from 3 feet to 4 feet in height, and are useful for removing the somewhat fiat appearance of large beds and borders. Weeping standards, which are very effective as lawn specimens, are obtained by budding ramblers on to stocks with stems 6 to 9 feet in height.
(3) Climbers.—These have mostly been propagated from vigorous shoots that have developed from bush varieties, and are useful for covering rustic fences and walls.
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65
(4) Ramblers.—These are more robust than climbers, the plants making long vigorous shoots every year. They bear clusters of small single, semi-double, or double flowers, and are suitable for covering arches, pergolas, rustic fences, and rails, or they may be trained as tall standards to poles.
(5) Dwarf Polyanthas.— These have become very popular of late for bedding purposes, and many new and improved varieties have been introduced. They have clusters of small double flowers, which are produced in abundance over a long period.
(6) Hybrid Sweet Briars.—These have the scented foliage of ordinary sweet briars, but with larger and
An effective pergola suitable for a fairly spacious garden.
more brightly coloured flowers than the ordinary type. They are suitable for forming hedges or for training on rustic fences.
(7) Rose Species.—There are several interesting and useful species. Some are remarkable for their sweetly scented single flowers, others for their ornamental fruits, and others for their decorative spines and foliage.
THE DESIGN
Those who can afford the space can have a very beautiful rose garden, consisting of a number of more or less informal beds cut out of the grass, surrounded by
THE ROSE GARDEN
borders and pergolas, but in the small garden it may consist of one or more beds, and in the very small garden, of a few bushes in the mixed border. Where the object is the production of exhibition blooms, it may be better to plant them in borders, three or four rows in each, with a narrow pathway between, but even for the exhibition board or baskets large overfed blooms are not now so popular.
Simple circular design suitable for a lawu rose garden.
Though roses can be associated with some other subjects in the garden, they should not be planted close to rampant shrubs or mixed with strong growing herbaceous perennials. The plants with which they can be associated are violas, pansies, violets, carnations, tulips, pinks, or lilies.
Preparation of Beds and Borders.—Whether the rose garden be large or small, special attention should be given to the preparation of beds and borders. Roses certainly do better on a fairly stiff loam which does not dry out readily in the summer; but any kind of soil can be made suitable with the correct kind of treatment.
66
42
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Trenching to a depth of 2| to 3 feet is desirable, and a good application of farmyard manure should be made to the lower layer. If the subsoil is unsuitable, it should be broken up and left at the bottom of the trench, for it is unwise to bring heavy clay or raw unsuitable peat to the surface. If the soil is very light and mostly gravel, it will be an advantage to excavate it to a depth of 2J to 3 feet, place a layer of clay in the bottom of the bed, and to add some good loam to the upper layer. The trenching should be done in early autumn so that the soil may settle down before planting is carried out.
Rose plants well and badly planted.
Autumn planting is recommended, but any time before growth commences in spring will be found suitable in New Zealand, where winters are not severe.
In planting it is necessary first to level the soil roughly and to mark out with sticks at a distance of 24 to 27 inches apart, the positions the plants are to occupy. In front of each stick dig a hole 12 inches square and 18 inches deep. Place the plant against the back of the hole with the roots well spread out and at a depth sufficient to bury the union of the stock and the scion two inches below the surface. If the soil is wet and sticky, a little dry soil should be used to cover the roots; and the plants should be shaken to work the dry soil among the root fibres. Plant firmly, and finish off the surface by making it level but not too fine.
THE ROSE GARDEN
68
When the plants arrive from the nursery they are not pruned, but are cut back simply to make packing easier and to reduce the cost of transport. The pruning is left until the usual time in spring, when the stems are cut back to within a few inches of the soil.
A vigorous rose.
Pruned for garden purposes.
Pruned for exhibition roses.
Pruning.—The tools required for pruning are; A pair of good secateurs (“Rollout” are good), a small saw for use on strong old stems, a knife to smooth and trim the cut surfaces, a pair of stout leather gloves to protect the hands, and a waterproof pad to kneel on.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
The pruning of ramblers can be done at any time after growth ceases in the autumn. The principle followed is to cut away all the shoots that have flowered and to tie in an equal number of vigorous young shoots in their places. When ramblers are grown over arches and pergolas, this procedure is not always possible, and it may be necessary to spur back the young side growths to within two inches of the main stems. Although ramblers will flower for two or three years without pruning, if so left, they soon become a tangled mass of dead and decaying twigs, and the prey of green fly and mildew.
Climbers.—These require treatment similar to that given to the ramblers, although their growth is not nearly so vigorous. As far as possible cut out all old wood and tie in the young growths almost to their entire length, removing merely the unripened tips of the shoots. When young growths are not long enough to reach to the top of the fence or trellis, some of the old stems may be retained and the side growths pruned back to within two inches.
Bushes.—Before pruning is commenced, it must be decided whether the object in view is to produce a limited number of first-class blooms for exhibition purposes, or a larger number to create a better display in the garden. The ability of the plant to produce flowers must also be ascertained, so that a task may be set which the plant may accomplish in a satisfactory manner. If
THE ROSE GARDEN
70
a limited number of special blooms are desired, prune reasonably hard; if quantity is the aim, prune lightly. Weak plants being unable to produce many flowers, are pruned hard, whereas strong growers which can produce quantities are pruned lightly. It is true that all plants should be treated as individuals, and should be pruned accordingly, but they all conform more or less to the general common sense rules, and by following these, the grower is not likely to make any serious mistakes. The experience gained by practice will bring confidence to the amateur.
It should be understood that roses bloom on the young shoots produced from well-developed buds formed on the ripened wood of the previous year’s growth; if all stems of more than one year’s growth could be eliminated, there would be ideal plants, the aim being to keep the bushes young and vigorous. All dead and decaying shoots should be cut out first, and then as many as possible of the older shoots which are gradually becoming weaker. Next, remove those shoots that are growing in towards the centre of the bush, those that are weak and spindly, and those that are pithy and unripened. Finally the young well-ripened shoots should be cut back to about an inch above a bud pointing away from the centre of the bush or in the direction in which it is desired to
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
train the bush to grow. The top bud left invariably produces the strongest shoot. The number of good evident buds may be three or four on vigorous shoots, and two or three on weaker ones.
The shape of the bush is not very important, but the matter should receive some consideration since it is necessary to secure an even flow of sap, and to utilise to the best advantage the space on the beds and borders.
Strong growing bush roses can be pegged down in a horizontal position, when the buds all along the shoots will receive equal supplies of food and all will develop into flowering shoots.
Style of label.
Dwarf Polyanthas.—The single and double varieties are thinned out sufficiently to prevent them from becoming a tangled mass; the remaining stems are then shortened back slightly.
After pruning, the twigs should be collected and burnt and the ashes spread over the surface. A good dressing of well-rotted manure, or failing that, bone dust should be applied and lightly dug in. Care should be taken not to dig deep close in to the roots. If the soil is at all sour, a dressing of lime should be applied in the autumn or after digging, 1 lb. to three square yards being ample. As it is possible to apply much stronger sprays when the plants are at rest, it is an advantage to spray with lime sulphur, winter strength, immediately after pruning. This spray checks mildew and black spot; but as it will stain the labels, these should be removed and placed face downwards during the operation.
Disbudding.—As soon as the flower buds appear, a certain amount of thinning should be carried out, one bud being sufficient for one shoot. During this process of disbudding quantities of green fly can be destroyed between fingers and thumb. Spraying has to be carried out at regular intervals for green fly, and also as soon as
THE ROSE GARDEN
72
the first signs of mildew appear. It is better, however, to anticipate, and spray before the mildew is evident. For green fly use Clensell or Black Leaf 40, and for mildew use Potassium Sulphide (1 oz. to 3 gallons of water), or Gow’s Mildew Destroyer.
The general cultivation consists of hoeing at frequent intervals to destroy weeds, and to provide a loose surface mulch; the picking of all dead and decaying blooms; and watering should the weather be dry.
The application of liquid manure is recommended during the development of the first crop of flower buds, not only to assist in bringing them to perfection, but also to assist in the production of young growths, thus ensuring good second and succeeding crops of flowers.
It is not advisable to grow strong perennials or rampant annuals among roses, but a carpeting of violas or pansies is desirable. The partial shade provided by the roses suits these plants admirably, and they in turn keep the soil cool and provide colour when the roses are not blooming.
Roses for Exhibition.—The rose exhibitor is a real enthusiast, and as his efforts are mainly directed towards the production of a limited number of flowers of perfect shape, size, and colour, he prunes much harder than the ordinary grower. Not only does he limit the number of blooms on each plant in this way, but he also carries out a certain amount of thinning when the shoots are quite young. Occasionally three shoots will develop from a single eye. The strongest, usually the centre one, will be retained and the others removed. It may also be found that more buds than the number desired have developed; these will be thinned out by removing those in the centre and the ones that are weakest and in the worst positions. There will be left to develop six or a dozen buds, according to the strength of the plant.
During this operation, shoots in different stages of development are retained so that the flowering season may be extended. It is very difficult to time the flowers for a show date, but if the flowering season is made to extend over a longer period, it is likely that some at least
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will be at their best on the particular day. The general principle is to prune hard for exhibition blooms, lightly for garden decoration; and to prune weak growers hard and strong growers lightly.
Feeding.—Liquid manure is recommended for feeding. Where a large number of roses are grown it is better to have three barrels, one for cow, one for sheep, and one for stable manure. The first draw-oil is made after the manure has soaked for two days; this draw-off is diluted with an equal quantity of clear water, and about a quart is given to each plant. The following week the draw is
Manure water. Diagram showing the method of using either soot or dung.
taken from the second barrel, and the third week from the third barrel, so that each plant has a little of each kind. The liquid is applied as soon as the buds appear after rain or after watering, but never when the soil is dry. For a small garden half a peck of poultry manure and half a peek of soot can be soaked in thirty-six gallons of water, to be applied as already recommended. Those who object to having the barrels of natural manure, can make up quite a useful manure with chemicals.
Tonks’ mixture, already described, is recommended. The first application of \ lb. to the square yard is applied after pruning; the second dressing of the same amount is applied after the flower buds are well developed. It is dusted over the surface of the soil and hoed in. Care
Alyssum saxatile.
Iberis gibraltarica.
Kiver Banks.
Anemone. St. Brigid.
Hippeastmm.
Gladiolus. Groff’s.
Types of Daffodils.
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76
should be taken, however, not to allow any of the mixture to come in contact with the foliage.
Protecting the Flowers. —It is hardly to be expected that the exhibitor will be able to go into the garden on the morning of the show and cut exhibition blooms, no matter what the weather may be. Some kind of protection is necessary to retard blooms which would otherwise be past their best, to shade them from strong sunshine which might burn some of those of more delicate colour, and to protect them from the rain. Various devices are
Upper: Shading exhibition blooms. Lower; Tying up a rose bloom with wool.
recommended such as cones made of waterproof paper, glass bottles with the bottoms cut out, old umbrellas, boxes, etc.
If the exhibitor could alter the date of the show to suit his blooms he would be saved much worry, but as the date is usually fixed months in advance, he has to do what he can by pruning, disbudding, and protecting to get the E
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
majority of his blooms to perfection on the day in question. It is found that it usually takes eight days for a bud to develop into a perfect flower, and by shading it may be retarded for two days.
Wind is also destructive, and it is very important to stake the selected buds to prevent them from being torn by rubbing against adjoining branches, and to keep them upright so that they may develop evenly.
Blooms may also be retarded by tying them with soft Berlin wool or raffia. This is looped round two or three times inside the outer row of petals; the ends are so fastened that they will give but not slip. After tying, take a brush and uncurl any petals that may have doubled up; examine the flowers from time to time to see that the wool does not become too tight.
Cutting the Blooms.—The blooms should be cut the night before the show, and after the sun has gone off them. After bruising about an inch of the stem at the base, place the flowers in water up to their necks and stand them in a cool darkened room. Flowers treated in this way can be kept for several days, and a half-opened bud can easily be retarded two days.
Show boards should be prepared in good time with fresh green moss to cover the top, and supplies of clean healthy foliage (not necessarily from the varieties exhibited) should be available.
When the blooms are set up, the largest should be placed towards the back, the smallest in front, and the most perfect blooms should be kept for the middle. The colours should be distributed so that they show to the best advantage; all should be sprayed overhead, and neat labels with correct names attached to each flower.
It is most important to have a few spare blooms in case of accidents, which may happen to even the most experienced exhibitors.
In the selection of blooms, size is not to be considered as important as it was in the old H.p. days. Colour, freshness, and shape are all important, and the blooms should be free from blemish, not unduly dressed, and perfectly formed according to character.
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78
Propagation-Ramblers, climbers, and strong-growing bush varieties can be grown from cuttings of young ripened wood, inserted in the open in winter or early spring, buried three-fourths of their length and tramped firmly. Bush varieties are usually budded on to a suitable stock, which may be hybrid manetta, dog rose, or Rosa rugosa. Budding is described on page 34.
Budding a standard.
Twenty-five Good Garden Roses.
America
Lady Forteviot
Barbara Richards
Lady Hillingdon
Billy Boy
Mabel Morse
Betty 'Uprichard
Madame Butterfly
Covent Garden
Margaret McGredy
Dainty Bess
Mrs. A. R. Barraclough
Zingari
Mrs. Henry Morse
Etoile de Hollande
Mrs. Wemyss Quinn
Dame Edith Helen
Gwyneth Jones
Portadown
Isobel
Shot Silk
Julien Potin
Sir Basil McFarland
William Orr
Sir David Davis
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79
Twelve Good Roses.
Barbara Richards
Lady Forteviot
Covent Garden
Mabel Morse
Emma Wright
Madame Butterfly
Etoile de Hollande
Mrs. A. R. Barraclough
Flamingo
Shot Silk
Sir Basil McFarland
Julien Potin
Six Roses for Small Gardens.
Shot Silk
Etoile de Hollande
Madame Butterfly
Betty Uprichard
Mabel Morse
Lady Forteviot
Six Pink Roses.
Dame Edith Helen
Mrs. A. R. Barraclough
America
Mrs. Henry Morse
Lady Ashtown
Dainty Bess
Six Red Roses.
Sir David Davis
Hugh Dickson
Etoile de Hollande
Covent Garden
General McArthur
Mrs. C. E. van Rossem
Twelve Yellow or Orange Roses.
Trigo
Golden Gleam
Mrs. Wemyss Quinn
Prances Gaunt
Mabel Morse
Billy Boy
Barbara Richards
Lady Forteviot
Adele Crofton
Lady Hillingdon
Julien Potin
Angele Pernet
Twelve Art Shades or Shades not Already Listed.
Betty Uprichard
Shot Silk
Duchess of Athol
Sir Basil McFarland
Flamingo
Ivy May
Isobel
Irish Fireflame
Gwyneth Jones
Daily Mail Scented
Lady Inchiqnin
Margaret Dickson Hamill
Six White and Ivory Roses.
Clarice Goodacre
Abol
Mrs. Charles Lamplougli
Lemon Pillar
Mrs. David McKee
Miss Wilmott
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Five Single Roses.
Isobel
Dainty Bess Jessie Clark Irish Elegance
Paul’s Carmine Pillar
(Climber)
Five Hybrid Sweet Briars,
Amy Robsart
Lord Penzance Lady Penzance
Anne of Geierstein Jeannie Deans
Six Rose Species
Rugosa Blanch Double de
Rosa spinosissima (Scotch rose)
Coubert
Moyesii
Sinica anemone
Sericea pteracantha
Moschata alba
Twelve Dwarf Polyantha Roses
Coral Cluster
Little Dorrit
Locarno
Ellen Poulsen
Else Poulsen
Miss Edith Cavell
Gloria Mundi
Orleans Rose
Golden Salmon
Paul Crampel
Hollandia
Sheila
Twelve Ramblers.
Paul’s Scarlet Climber
Excelsa
Alberie Barbier
Mrs. P. W. Flight
Dorothy Perkins
American Pillar
Blush Rambler
Dorothy Denniston
Pink Rambler
Emily Gray
Lady Gay
Tea Rambler
Twelve Climbing Roses.
Climb. Caroline Testout
Climb. Cupid
„ Chateau de Clos Yougeot
„ Madame Butterfly
„ Shot Silk
„ Emma Wright
„ George Dickson
„ Richmond
„ Mabel Morse
„ Etoile de Hollande
„ Lady Waterlow
„ Los Angeles
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
FLOWER BEDS.
Well-planted flower beds help to brighten up a town and to add colour to the surroundings of the home. When properly managed, they should be occupied all the year round. As soon as the summer and autumn flowers are over they should be cleared, dug over, and replanted with wallflowers, bulbs, or other subjects for the spring effect. In the late spring or early summer these plants will again give place to the summer and autumn subjects. This constant cropping soon exhausts the available plant food in the soil, and manuring has to be done either in spring or autumn, but preferably in the spring. The most satisfactory results are obtained from the use of well-rotted farmyard manure, or failing it, the compost heap with bone meal before planting, and blood and bone during growth.
Though it is now the practice to fill beds with two, three, or more kinds of plants, good effects may be obtained by the use of two, one providing the colour, and the other the edging. For the latter purpose there are few better than geraniums or dwarf dahlias for summer, and wallflowers and polyanthus primroses for spring. The following arrangements suggest themselves for summer and autumn: —Geranium, “Soldier’s Tunic,” with an edging of dwarf white foliage geranium; salvia bonfire with a similar edging; ivy-leaved geraniums, Madame Crousse or Charles Turner, with an edging of alyssum “White Carpet”; verbena venosa, with yellow pyrethrum; dahlia ‘ ‘ Coltness Gem,” or any of the other dwarf kinds edged with dwarf white geranium or pyrethrum; tuberous rooted begonias with an edging of lobelia, etc. To relieve the monotony of flat beds, standards of various kinds are often planted, and beds of Chas. Turner geranium with standards of Mrs. Crousse or heliotrope; tuberous begonias with standard fuchsias; cannas with a carpeting of verbena; dahlias with various carpeting plants; chrysanthemums with asters; and gladioli with phlox drummondi are effective. Mixed planting in beds is also adopted, and to obtain quick results nemesias, venidiums, and dimorphotheeas, which come into flower almost as soon as planted, are put in as
FLOWER BEDS
55
a catch crop among stocks, antirrhinums, dahlias, chrysanthemums, and asters. The modern antirrhinum is one of the most useful plants for providing a display, the intermediate and bedding kinds being effective in beds of either single or mixed colours.
Sub-tropical or foliage beds are effective, as also are carpet beds, and beds of cacti when variety is desired; but as colour is more desirable than foliage, plants which flower are to be preferred.
A board with holes and marking pegs for making concentric circles in a circular flower bed.
In the large London parks, plants are grown in pots until they are in flower, and are then put out, but this is a very expensive method of gardening, requiring a lot of glass. The plants, moreover, do not look happy should the weather be cold and wet immediately after planting.
Hardy Biennials.—A biennial is a plant which grows from seed, makes considerable growth one season, and flowers, bears seed, and dies the next. Many perennials are treated as biennials as the best results may be obtained from such treatment.
The sweet william is a good example, for although it will grow and flower in season for several years, much better results are obtained if the old plants are removed and fresh plants raised from seed each year. The seed of sweet william is sown in boxes about the end of November or the beginning of December. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they are pricked out into boxes and grown on in cool frames. About the end of January, when they are well grown, the plants are lined out in nursery rows in a well-manured piece of ground, where they go on growing until the autumn. As
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
soon as the borders or the positions in the mixed borders are available, they are manured and dug over, and the sweet william plants are then lifted with a ball of soil and planted out at from to 2 feet apart. If the soil is dry at the time of planting, it should be well watered to establish the plants, which will flower the following summer. The best varieties are the dark and light pinks, the scarlet, and the dark crimson ones. Seed from these should be saved every year.
Making an oval flower bed.
Other plants treated as biennials and brought on in a similar manner to that recommended for sweet william are Canterbury bells, East Lothian and Brompton stocks, hollyhocks, and honesty.
““"““I •! Wallflowers, forget-me-nots, and double daisies are all spring-flowering biennials, and will be dealt with in a later section.
Half-hardy Annuals.—These are plants which are raised from seed sown under glass and grown on under gentle heat. When they have made sufficient growth, they are hardened off in cold frames and are ready to plant out as soon as the weather is favourable, and as soon as there is a vacancy for them in the beds and borders. Many of them are quite hardy if they are sown later on in the summer in the open, but under these conditions they would take so long to come to the flowering stage, that they would run a risk of being cut down by frosts before they had reached their true beauty. Some
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84
kinds, like the antirrhinums, are true perennials by habit, but are better when treated as half-hardy annuals. To avoid overcrowding in the houses during the rush of spring work, seeds of some of the hardier kinds may be sown in July, so that they may be through the houses and standing outside in a sunny position before the busy season commences.
Antirrhinums are among the first kinds that are sown, and a description of their treatment is typical of that recommended for most annuals. Seed boxes are prepared and nearly filled with a light soil mixture composed of loam, 2 parts; leaf mould, 1 part; and sand, i part. Before use this mixture is passed through a half-inch sieve, and a small quantity is also passed through a fine sieve for topping the surface and for covering the seed. To provide drainage, the boxes are crocked with leaves, or the rough material sifted out of the soil. Two inches of the soil mixture is then put in, made firm, and levelled over. This is then covered with about a quarter of an inch of the fine soil, which is also levelled and made smooth. The box is then marked off into sections with pieces of bamboo, thus providing a separate compartment for each variety of seed to be sown. After sowing thinly and evenly, the seeds are pressed into the soil with a smooth flat piece of wood, and just covered with more fine soil, which is again made level and smooth. The boxes of seeds after being well watered from a can with a fine rose, should be stood on a bench in the warm greenhouse, and kept shaded with pieces of brown paper until germination takes place. As soon as the seedlings appear, all shading should be removed, and the boxes placed on a shelf near the glass to prevent the plants becoming drawn and spindly.
When the young plants have grown sufficiently, the boxes should be removed to cooler and more airy conditions, and as soon as they are large enough to handle, they should be pricked out into boxes containing soil similar to that recommended for seed sowing, with the addition of some well-rotted stable manure and bone meal. Every seedling should be allowed a space of about two
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
inches. After being pricked off, they should be stood back in the warm greenhouse, well watered, and shaded from strong sunlight for a few days.
As soon as the seedlings become adapted to the new soil, they can be subjected to a cooler atmosphere, and given more air to encourage sturdy growth. Soon they can be removed to cold frames, gradually hardened off, and stood outside on a bed of cinders until such time as
Stages in hardening off bedding-out plants: 1. In frame with lid raised. 2. On the greenhouse bench. 3. Near the top light. 4. Outside in cold frame.
they will be required. In the early part of the spring, when late frosts may be expected, it is advisable to erect a framework over the boxes so that they may be covered with scrim at short notice.
The aim is to get well-developed sturdy plants with a well-grown root system which will hold on to the soil when transplanting is carried out. Root growth is more important in seedlings than top growth.
FLOWER BEDS
The following is a list of the various plants which are treated in this way:—
Antirrhinums—Tom Thumb Bedding Intermediate Tall
Ageratum—Dwarf blue
"S'--*-Arctotis—grandis
Aster—Ostrich plume Comet Single
Alyssum—Little Dorrit White Carpet
Balsam—Camellia-flowered
Celosia —plumosa
Coreopsis—Drummondi
Cosmea—early flowering
Dahlia—Coltness Gem
Dianthus—Heddewigii Salmon Queen Vesuvius The Mikado
Helichrysum—monstrosum
Lobelia —Cambridge blue Crystal Palace Compacta
Marigold—French Legion of Honour African
Nemesia—strumosa mixed Blue gem
Nicotiana —afSnis Sanderae
Papaver—nudicaule Coonara
Pentstemons —largeflowering
Perilla —Nankinensis
Petunia—Rosy Morn Giant of California
Phlox—Drummondii
Stock —Giant Perfection Ten Week
East Lothian
Brompton
Pyrethrum—Golden Feather
Salpiglossis—mixed
Salvia—bonfire
Scabiosa—grandiflora
Schizanthus —W isetonensis
Sunflower—-various
Ursinia —anthenoides
Venidium—calendulaceum
Verbena—mixed bedding
Zinnia—double mixed.
Hardy Annuals.—Plants raised from seed and sown in the open ground provide a wealth of bloom both for house and garden decoration at a minimum cost of money and effort.
The soil they are to occupy should not be too rich, otherwise they will make too much growth and little flower, but there must be a certain amount of plant food available in the early stages, otherwise they will become stunted and flower prematurely. Hardy annuals, like all
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87
other classes of garden plants, have been greatly improved during recent years, and many new kinds have been introduced. This improvement is not at an end. I had the privilege of visiting the trial grounds of several of the large seed merchants recently, and I noted many new and improved kinds not yet in commerce. I also saw a garden furnished entirely with annuals; it was very gay, and most interesting.
Hardy annuals can be sown in autumn to provide a spring and early summer display, and in spring for summer and autumn. Where the soil is well drained and the winter not too severe autumn sowing is recommended. The plants then have time to make good growth during the cool weather, and are ready to flower as soon as conditions are warm enough.
Having made good growth they flower well, and such kinds as larkspurs are very useful for cutting. The soil for annuals should be well cultivated and the surface made fine. If lumpy it is better to prepare some old potting soil or light loam for covering the seed; otherwise it may be buried too deeply.
Sowing can be done in patches, circles, or rows, but in each case the procedure is much the same. First make the surface fine and mark out the area each kind is to occupy, sow the seed thinly, rake it in a little, dust with blood and bone manure, and then cover with fine soil. The depth of covering will vary with the size of the seed, but should be just sufficient to hide it, and will not be more than an inch or less than one-eighth of an inch. Next firm with the rake or spade and label. To keep the soil cool and keep away birds it is an advantage to cover over with some fine scrub; but this should be removed as soon as germination takes place, otherwise the seedlings will become drawn and spindly. Thinning is most important, and this should be done at two operations, the first as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle and finally before they begin to crowd one another. The distance apart will depend on the ultimate growth of the plants, and will vary from 4 to 12 inches. Properly thinned plants will develop side branches and flower for
FLOWER BEDS
88
a considerable time; if too thick they will produce terminal flowers and the flowering season will he short.
Hardy annuals are useful for filling up the spaces in newly-planted shrubbery borders, for following on after spring-flowering bulbs are over, for filling patches in the mixed border, and for rows in a ribbon border.
The following are good kinds :
Agrostemma coronaria
Alonsoa Warscewiczii
Alyssum maritimum
Bartonia aurea
Brachycome iberidifolia (Swan River Daisy)
Calendula officinalis (Scotch marigold)
Centaurea eyanus (Cornflower)
Centaurea moschata (Sweet sultan)
Clarkia pulchella, and varieties
Chrysanthemum coronarium
Chrysanthemum segetum
Chrysanthemum carinatum
Collinsia bieolor
Delphinium, annual (Larkspur)
Dimorphotheca pluvialis and hybrids
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca
Eschseholtzia californica (Californian poppy)
Gypsophila elegans
Iberis umbellata (Candytuft)
Kochia triehophylla (Summer cypress)
Leptosyne Stillmanii
Lavatera trimestris (Tree mallow)
Limnanthes Douglasii
Linaria maroccana (Toad flax)
Linum grandiflorum rubrum (Flax)
Lnpinus mutabilis (Annual lupin)
Lychnis Coeli-rosa (Rose of Heaven)
Malcomia maritima (Virginian stock)
Malope trifida
Matthiola bicornis (Night-scented stock)
Matricaria inodora (May weed)
Nemophila insignis (Californian blue bell)
Nigella damascena (Love-in-a-mist)
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
CEnothera amoena (Godetia)
Omphalodes linifolia
iiuuuua Papaver pavoninum
Papaver somniferum (Opium poppy)
Papaver glaucum (Tulip poppy)
Papaver Khaes (Shirley poppy)
Phacelia eampanularia
Portulaca grandiflora
Keseda odorata (Mignonette)
Saponaria oalabrica (Soapwort)
Scabiosa atropurpurea grandiflora (Sweet Scabious
Senecio elegans (Jacobaea)
Silene pendula (Catohfly)
Specularia speculum (Corn violet
Tagetes signata pumila
Tropseolum minus (Dwarf nasturtium)
Tropeeolum majus (Tall nasturtium)
Ornamental Grasses.
Briza Minima
Hordeum jubatum
Briza Maxima
Pennisetum longistylum
La gurus ovatus
SPRING GARDENING.
The display in spring, coming as it does after a period of comparative scarcity, is appreciated even more than that in the summer. With the many new shades of wallflowers, anemones, ranunculi, and tulips, in addition to daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs, there is no lack of suitable material to choose from. Spring-flowering plants must be well grown before they are put out in the autumn, for the season is short in which they have to develop their flower buds. Likewise, bulbs should be well developed and ripened before planting.
The Wallflower is one of the most useful of our spring flowering plants, and though it is a true perennial, it is better when treated as a biennial. Seed is sown in November or early December in boxes or well-drained beds. By the end of January the plants are large enough to line out in nursery rows. The position in which the
SPRING GARDENING
90
plants are to grow has to be well manured and liberally limed. Occasional applications of lime during growth will keep away slugs and prevent club root. The plants will have developed into well-grown sturdy specimens by the autumn, when, as soon as good rains moisten the soil, the roots can be cut with a sharp spade, first on each side of the row and a week or so later in between the plants. This produces a compact root system, which is necessary for successful transplanting. After planting out water well, and though the leaves will droop a bit, the plants soon recover. Varieties to grow are Orange Bedder, Fire King, Vulcan, Blood Red, and Golden Queen.
Polyanthus Primrose.—When a good strain is grown, Polyanthus primroses are almost as valuable in the spring garden as wallflowers. To save seed, a few of the best varieties should be pollinated and marked when in flower. Just before they burst, the capsules can be collected and the seed sown as soon as ripe. They soon germinate, and when large enough to handle, the seedlings are pricked out into other boxes. By the autumn they will be sufficiently grown to line out in a piece of well-manured ground where most of them will flower in the spring, when the colours can be marked. By the following autumn the plants will be well grown and fit to plant out into the beds or borders. They flower well for two years, after which they deteriorate; but as seedlings are easily raised, it is much better to bring on a batch of young plants every year, than to trouble with the old ones.
Forget-me-nots, stocks, and double daisies are also useful for spring bedding. They are raised from seed sown in December or January, pricked out and grown on in boxes, and then lined out like the wallflowers. Double arabis, aubretias, and mossy phlox are raised from cuttings put in in autumn and grown on for a year in nursery rows. Once a stock is obtained the old plants can be divided up after flowering and lined out for the summer in a cool shady place.
Deciduous azaleas and other spring-flowering shrubs are also useful for bedding purposes. If lifted imme-
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diately after flowering is over and lined out in a cool shady place in the nursery or vegetable garden, they will make young growth, and set flower buds by the autumn, when they can again be transferred to the flower beds.
Violas and pansies are also very useful in the spring garden; in fact, in the warmer and drier districts they are more satisfactory in the winter and spring than
Dividing a strong root by leverage with two forks driven in back to back. Less harm is done by tearing apart than by a clean cut.
during the summer. There is a winter-flowering strain of pansies which is raised from seed like half-hardy annuals, but the disadvantage of using seedlings is that there is bound to be a number of indifferent colours. When working out a definite colour scheme it is therefore better to use good selected or named varieties. Old plants can be divided up, or cuttings can be rooted in the spring. If these are lined out in a cool, rich soil and prevented from flowering during the summer, they will make good bushy plants by the autumn, ready to start flowering as soon as they are put out. They are very effective when used for carpeting beds of tulips. Beds of deciduous azaleas, carpeted with brown and gold pansies, and interplanted with Darwin tulips make an effective combination.
Daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs are most effective when planted amongst deciduous shrubs and roses, or in the grass.
Narcissus poeticus.
[3]
K el way Parrot Tulip
SPRIN G GARDENING
Anemones.—The various spring-flowering anemones are most useful in the spring garden. It is better to plant the small-flowering species among rock plants, and for bedding purposes to use the large-flowered varieties of A. coronaria, and the scarlet wind-flower, A. fulgens.
Though all admire the wonderful colours of tulips in the spring, it is possible to get an almost equally bright display in the flower garden with anemones, which continue to flower for a longer period that the former. They are almost as easy to manage as tulips, but have to be planted earlier. This is not a serious drawback, for they can be planted among the summer and autumn bedding plants, and though they may have started into growth in the
Planting bulbs in grass. Cut out and turn back a section of turf. Set out tbe bulbs as desired and then replace the turf.
autumn before the beds are cleared, they will stand the winter, and will continue to grow and flower in the spring. Although flowering tubers can be obtained from the seedsman at a reasonable cost, they are easily raised from seed, and this is the best way to build up a stock quickly. The best colours should be marked when in flower so that the seed can be collected just before it is ripe, and put into a paper bag to mature. As soon as it is thoroughly ripe, the seed, after being mixed with clean sand to facilitate even distribution, is sown on a well-drained border, and kept shaded until germination takes place. The seedlings will make continuous growth, and some may flower the first season, but all should make flowering tubers by the following year.
If planted in beds or borders which are not required for summer plants, they can be left to ripen off and then lifted and stored in dry sand, but if the position they
p
65
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
occupy is required for summer bedding, the plants can be lifted and lined out in ashes or sand to complete their ripening process. Young tubers are the most satisfactory, but old ones can be used for several years, provided they do not become diseased. Applications of lime before planting and at intervals during growth will help to keep disease in check. White Island Product (sulphur), applied two or three times, will also be found useful for this purpose. The double or semi-double varieties are the most desirable. Anemone fulgens is better planted in groups in the herbaceous border or among deciduous shrubs. Ground level.
Planting Eanunculi.
Ranunculi.—The modem varieties of ranunculi as sent out by Messrs. Stinton, while being every bit as useful in the spring garden as anemones, are much better for cutting purposes. Dry tubers, which can be obtained from seedsmen at a very reasonable cost, are planted like anemones nine to twelve inches apart, and three inches deep. Lime the ground well before planting, and again at intervals to keep down slugs and prevent acidity in the soil.
Ranunculi will flower quite well for a second year, but young plants are the most satisfactory, being neither expensive nor difficult to raise from seed. This can be sown in boxes in spring, or as soon as ripe in well-drained beds in the open. As soon as the seedlings appear, they can be pricked out in nursery rows, where they will develop into flowering tubers in a little over a year.
In districts where frosts are severe, it may be necessary to shelter the seedlings in some way to prevent them from being lifted out by the action of the frost. Sashes or frames covered with windolite or scrim are suitable for this purpose.
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SPRING GARDENING
Ranunculi can be had in many shades, but the bright crimsons and the various art shades are the most desirable. Seed should be saved only from the best varieties.
Fritillarias.—The little Fritillaria Meleagris (Snake’s Head), though not so showy as the anemone or ranunculus, is a very desirable spring-flowering plant, useful for cutting and easily raised from seed. Seed sown as soon as ripe either in borders or boxes, will germinate at once, and, unless the seedlings are too thick, they can be left undisturbed until the second year, when the bulbs will be about the size of peas.
The plant thrives in a semi-shaded place among rhododendrons or azaleas, or in a cool place in the rock garden or herbaceous border.
There are several other small bulbs which are specially suitable for a spring display. The first of these to appear is the snowdrop, which is quite at home under the shelter of deciduous shrubs or among rhododendrons. When established in a congenial place snowdrops should not be disturbed for years.
The little blue-flowering bulbs (Scilla siberica and Ckiondoxa Lucilim are both useful for carpeting under roses, azaleas, and deciduous spring-flowering shrubs. They produce quantities of seedlings which come up among the old flowering bulbs, and have the appearance of seedling onions. If left undisturbed, these will develop into flowering bulbs in a few years. When the bulbs become overcrowded they can be lifted and the surplus replanted in some other suitable place.
The Muscari or Grape Hyacinths are also valuable, being specially suitable for carpeting deciduous shrubs or for edging mixed borders.
Tulips.—The various types of tulips are among the most gorgeous and deservedly popular of spring-flowering bulbs.
The late-flowering Darwin and Cottage types are the most suitable for growing in beds and borders, and bulbs may be either purchased from seedsmen, imported from Europe, or grown on from year to year. Unfortunately, the flowers from local grown bulbs sooner or later break
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
or become streaky, when they are not so satisfactory. This breaking is now known to be due to a virus disease which is distributed by means of greenfly. If this pest is kept in check, the disease is not so troublesome.
Tulips like a free, rather sandy, fairly rich, well-drained soil, and an open sunny position. Heavy clayey soils should be opened up by the addition of sand, coke breeze, or lime rubble.
Dibber v. trowel. A bulb badly planted with dibber (left) and correctly planted with trowel (right).
When planted in beds or borders which are afterwards to be planted with summer or autumn flowering plants, the bulbs can be lifted as soon as the flowering season is over and lined out in a well-drained bed or border of sand or ashes, to complete their ripening process. They are again lifted as soon as the foliage ripens off, and sorted out into flowering bulbs and smaller ones. The latter can be lined out in the nursery or reserve garden until they reach flowering size.
When importing tulips, preference should be given to retarded bulbs, which have been kept in cool storage until they come into line with New Zealand seasons. If sent out in the cool chamber they are quite dormant when they arrive in April or May, and can be planted at once.
The various species of tulips are well worth growing in the rock garden and herbaceous border. Once established they need not be disturbed for years.
Daffodils.—The daffodil is still the most widely cultivated of spring flowers, and one which still occupies an important
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position at all spring shows. Though not important as a bedding plant, it is still a favourite for grouping in the herbaceous border and for planting in drifts among deciduous shrubs or in grass. My own practice is to plant in shrubberies or in grass, where they do not become overcrowded so soon, and where they will come up year after year without any trouble.
Daffodils do not benefit from being kept out of the ground, and the best time to replant them is the day after they are lifted. There are two methods of planting in grass
Diagrams 1 and 2 show how to use the dibber correctly. Thrust it into the soil beside the hole (1) and lever over the soil so as to fill the cavities above and below the bulb (2). Diagrams 3 and 4 show another kind of slovenly planting. If the bulb is merely pushed into the soil (3), it works its way to the surface (4).
—one is to mark out irregular groups with sticks, dig a hole about nine inches square, first removing the turf, and then loosening up the soil with a spade or grubber. A handful of bone meal can be mixed with the soil when preparing it for planting. Plant five bulbs in each hole, replace the turf, and beat it down firmly. Another method is to scatter the bulbs thinly in drifts of one variety, and with a bulb planter put them in where they lie. They should be planted from three to four inches deep.
When grown for exhibition purposes, it is better to plant the bulbs in a specially prepared border, which could be
PRACTICAL GARDENING
70
four feet wide and as long as necessary. Plant in rows nine to twelve inches apart, and allow from six to nine inches between the bulbs in the rows.
New varieties are still being raised from seed, though there may not be the same enthusiasm in this direction as there was a few years ago when high prices were obtained for novelties. Though improvements are being made, many of the older well-tried varieties still occupy an important place in the average garden.
The Bulb Border. —The production of bulbs is a special provision of nature which enables plants to withstand a period of severe drought or severe cold. Those which belong to dry countries are better accommodated on specially prepared well-drained borders, at the foot of a wall or fence, having an open sunny position, and the soil mixture should include quantities of lime rubble and sand.
Bulbs for this border are Hippeastrums, Amaryllis Belladonna, Eueomis, Nerines, Freesias, and Lachenalias.
Lachenalias and Freesias can also be planted in well drained borders like Anemones and Ranunculi.
THE ROCK. WATER, AND BOG GARDEN.
This is a very popular section of hardy plant cultivation, and where the three can be combined a very fine landscape effect is obtained.
The rock garden can, however, be made a separate and distinct feature, and some of its advantages are as follows: —It is the most satisfactory method of treating a bank or slope, and if it is desired to hide an ugly or uninteresting feature either in one’s own or in adjoining gardens, there is nothing more satisfactory for the purpose than a hill or range of mountains in miniature. By no other means can so large a number of interesting plants be grown on a small area, for it is possible to accommodate a hundred or more species on a small space, and if a wise selection is made there will he something in flower or in fruit throughout the whole year.
Alpine plants are most fascinating. Their dwarf habits and bright coloured flowers provide a display of
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71
colour out of all proportion to the size of the plants; and the difficulty experienced in growing some of them arouses the interest and enthusiasm of all true gardeners.
Site.—The most suitable site is a sloping bank or hillside with a background of trees or shrubs. Even in a flat garden a hollow can be dug and a bank thrown up, both being faced with suitable rocks. The position, however, should be an open sunny one well away from the shadow or drip of trees or from strong rooting shrubs.
When preparing the site, remove all perennial weeds such as couchgrass and clover, and if necessary cultivate it for a year to get rid of them, for they are most difficult to eradicate later on when partly covered with rocks.
Section through a rock garden showing position of major rocks resting on smaller ones, which provide a solid foundation, act as drainage, and conserve the moisture in the soil.
Stone.—Weathered limestone or any other weathered rock that can be obtained in sufficiently large blocks is to be preferred, but sandstone or the type of rotten rock which overlies hard rock is suitable. The latter is light to handle, porous, easily obtained in large irregular blocks, and when the hard side is placed outwards does not weather. Bounded water-worn stones as obtained from river-beds, or the hard material which is quarried for making road metal, is not suitable, nor do the plants take kindly to it. The larger the rocks the easier it is to get them to hold and fit together, and the more satisfactory the general effect.
One cannot too strongly condemn the artificial looking rockeries built with chunks of brick and twisted drainpipes, pieces of clinker, and masses of burnt glass.
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Rockeries such as described are apparently built for the sake of the material and not the plants, which are a secondary consideration.
Whenever a suitable local stone can be obtained this should be used, for the cost of transporting large rocks trom a distance is considerable.
Building,—A firm foundation is essential, and this is obtained by digging down to the solid and filling in the trench with a mixture of soil and smaller stones. Whenever possible the rocks should be deposited above the site, it being much easier to move them down as required than to have to shift them uphill. The building should be done in the autumn, when both the rocks and soil are dry and easy to handle.
A section of a rockery. Note how the rocks should be placed so o to catch any rain that falls.
Some of the points to bear in mind when building are:—
Build firmly, securing the larger stones behind two of those lower down, so that it is possible to climb all over the site without dislodging one.
Bury the ordinary stones at least one-third of their volume, but here and there expose practically the whole of a large rock to form a bold feature.
In building imitate a range of mountains, with ridges, spurs, and valleys, so that varied aspects are provided for the different kinds of plants.
Lay the stones with the upper surface sloping inwards so that when rain falls it will be directed to the roots of the plants.
Provide pockets of various dimensions, large ones for the more important species, smaller ones for the less important, and for those which like to be wedged in tightly between rocks.
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Maintain a connection between the soil in the pockets and the subsoil by mixing stones and soil together and ramming it firmly. As building proceeds use ordinary soil for fixing the rocks, but later on this is dug out of the pockets and replaced with a special mixture which must also be rammed firmly. While drainage is very essential, it is also important to fill up all cracks and crevices with soil so that the roots of the plants will not dangle in air when they penetrate beyond the special soil in the pockets.
Soil.—Alpine plants live mainly on disintegrated particles, which are constantly being broken away from the main rock through the influence of frost, etc., mixed with quantities of peat and organic matter formed by the decay of surrounding vegetation; therefore their soil should be open and gritty, and contain some organic matter.
A mixture of one part gravel or stone chips and lime rubble, one part leaf mould, and two of clean sterilized turfy loam will be found suitable for most kinds, though some may require more peat, and some more lime. Wherever possible the surface of the pockets should be nearly level, so that rain falling on it will soak in and not run off carrying the loose surface material with it.
If at all possible provision should be made for running water of some kind, either a miniature waterfall, a series of cascades, or a dripping well; besides which provision can be made for moisture-loving plants.
Planting.—Planting is better done in autumn or early winter, for then the plants will have a chance to become established, and will flower the following spring and summer. If this cannot be done it is a good idea to take off a crop of hardy annuals the first season and to plant the following autumn. As far as possible give every kind a pocket to itself. Put out large drifts of the more decorative kinds, and smaller ones of those that are more interesting than beautiful.
Plant firmly and water in.
Although labels do not add to the appearance of the rock garden, they add to the interest of the collection, and there are now many of a more or less inconspicuous nature which
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may be used. In a private collection it will not be necessary to label the commoner and well-known kinds, but in public gardens all should be legibly labelled.
To provide access, a rock garden of any extent should be intersected with paved paths, which can be planted with suitable alpines.
Subsequent Maintenance.—A rock garden is fairly easy to keep in order, the main work during the spring and summer consisting of weeding, keeping the surface soil where evident stirred up, keeping slugs in check by dusting with lime or watering with lime water, and watering during dry weather. It is also necessary to cut off old flower stalks and to prevent the stronger and more rampant kinds from spreading over the weaker.
It is also necessary to give an annual overhaul and top-dressing in the autumn. Kinds which grow out of the soil should be lifted and replanted, and any losses made good with plants from the nursery. AVhen top-dressing first prick up the surface, removing weeds and moss, then apply a dressing of gritty soil with quantities of broken rock in it. Most of the weaker growers like a dressing of stone chips over the surface of the soil and under the foliage as well.
The Moraine.—This should be in the bottom of a valley, and so constructed that it will retain about six inches of water. Stones on their edges are placed in this and the spaces between filled with gritty soil and stone chips, mainly the latter. The plants growing in a moraine should have mostly moisture and fresh air, very little soil being necessary. Arrangements should be made for water to percolate downwards and flow out at the lower end. A few larger stones should appear like an outcrop to be used as stepping stones when the gardener is weeding and attending to the plants.
Whenever possible the water from the rock garden and the moraine should be collected in a pool, the margins of which would provide suitable conditions for moistureloving plants. When it is possible to extend the pool to a pond or small lake so much the better for the general effect,
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75
and there are plenty of plants which appreciate moist conditions.
When forming a small pool it is better to cement the bottom and sides, but the margins should not show either concrete or plaster.
Bog Plants.—The bog border should be six to nine inches above the level of the water, and the soil should be a rich loam with a liberal dressing of sand and well-rotted farmyard manure. In large borders round natural ponds the soil should be trenched to a depth of 18 inches to 2 feet, and to admit water it is a good idea to put a layer of stones in the bottom of the trench. This allows the water to saturate the subsoil and to rise up to the plants, or the
Sketch of a circular garden pool approached by paved paths.
plants can send their roots down to it. There is a distinct difference between bog plants which live on the margins of ponds and true aquatics which live in the water. The roots of bog plants must be able to have supplies of both air and water, whereas the stems and roots of aquatic plants get their supplies of air from the water. The ponds should be of an irregular shape, with bays and headlands which can be planted to intensify the effects.
Water Plants. —Water lilies are always favourites, whether grown in ponds or in tubs sunk in the lawn, and the many new hardy coloured kinds are very effective. When planting in a natural pond with a muddy bottom, enclose the plants in a wire basket with some soil and sink at the correct depth, which should not be less than two feet or more than three.
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In artificial ponds they are usually planted in tubs or pots of rich soil composed of two parts turfy loam, one part cow manure and half a part sand.
Ee-potting in the spring as soon as growth commences is desirable, for the plants soon become overcrowded and should be divided up.
Plants suitable for the rock garden are: —
Achillea argentia
Dianthus alpinus
AUthionema Warleyensis
„ Allwoodii
Androsaee Chumbyi
„ deltoides
„ lanuginosa
„ glacialis
„ primuloides
„ neglectns
„ garden hybrids
„ sarmentosa
Draba Aizoon
Anemone Hepatica
„ Robinsoniana
Dryas octopetala
Bdraianthus dalmatica
Antirrhinum Asarina
Epimedium alpinum
Aquilegia glandulosa
Arabis albida flore-pleno
Erica carnea
Arenaria balearica
Erinus alpinus
Erodium chamasdryoides
„ montana
Armeria caespitosa
„ corsicum
Aster Farreri „
Fuchsia procumbens
Gazania splendens „
„ alpinus
„ hybrids
Aubrietia Leichlini
Gentiana acaulis
„ varieties
„ dahurica
Bellium minutum
„ Farreri
Calceolaria polyrrhiza Campanula Allionii
„ freyniana
„ Purdomi
„ caespitosa
„ fragilis
„ septemfida
„ sino-ornata
„ garganica
~ muralis
„ verna
Geranium lancastriense
„ pulla
r“ —“ „ pusilla
Geum Borisi
Globularia cordifolia
Cheiranthus Allionii
(Biennial)
„ nudicaulis
Conandron ramondioides
Gypsophila cerastioides
Helianthemum, garden
Convolvulus cneorum
Daphne cneorum
varieties
THE ROCK, WATER AND BOG GARDEN
Heuchera sanguinea
Horminum pyrenaicum
Iberis gibraltarica
Saponaria ocymoides
Iberis sempervirens
Saxifraga Aizoon
Iris reticulata
„ Burseriana
Leontopodium alpinum
„ granulata
Linaria alpina „
„ Cymbalaria
„ Griesbachii
Linum flavum
Lithospennum graminifolium
„ prostratum
Lotus peliorhynchus
Lychnis alpina
Meconopsis rudis
Nierembergia frutescens
„ rivularis
QEnothera speciosa rosea
Omphalodes verna
Onosma tauricum
Ourisia coccinea
Papaver alpinum
Parochetus communis
Pentstemon caeruleus
Phlox subulata, varieties „ Nelsoni
Primula verticillata
„ Juliae
„ rosea
„ farinosa
„ Wardii
„ cortusoides
Ramondia pyrenaica
Rhododendron ferrugineum „
„ racemosum
mexicana
Nymptuea alba
„ Froebelii
„ Marliacea-
chromatella
„ „ carnea
„ rosea
77
Rhododendron impeditum
Sanguinaria canadensis
flore-pleno
„ Hostii
„ hypnoides
„ longifolia
„ pyramidalis
„ muscoides
„ sarmentosa
„ umbrosa
Sedum Sieboldii
Shortia galacifolia
Sempervivum arachnoideum
Silene acaulis „ Schafta
Sisyrinchium angustifolium
Soldanella alpina
Statice incana
Thymus serpyllum & varieties
Tiarella cordifolia
Tunica saxifraga
Verbena chamaedryfolia „
„ venosa
Viola eornuta „
„ gracilis
Yucca gloriosa „ „
„ filamentosa
„ Whipple!
Zauschneria californica
Nymphaeas and Other Water Plants.
Butomus umbellatus
Caltha polypetala
Cyperus longus
Sagittaria japonica
Typha augustifolia
78
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Waterside and Bog Plants.
Astilbe, varieties
Primula Plorindae
Caltha palustris
„ heledoxa
Cardamine pratensis
„ hybrids
Epilobium augustifolium
„ japonica
Gunnera scabra
„ littoniana
Iris Kaempferi „ „ „
„ Poissonii
„ ochroleuca
„ pulverulenta
„ pseudacorus
„ sikkimensis
„ sibirica
Rodgersia pinnata
Lobelia cardinalis
Saxifraga peltata
Lythrum salicaria
Senecio clivorum
Osmunda regalis
Spiraea fllipendula
Primula Beesiana
„ gigantea
„ Bulleyana
Spiraea palmata
Trollius, varieties
„ capita ta
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER.
Hardy herbaceous perennials are plants which grow from tubers, bulbs, rootstocks, or stools, which each year produce flower stems, and die down again to the ground in the autumn. Though very satisfactory flower-borders can be furnished entirely with perennials, it is not unusual in a small garden to include a number of the best of the hardy annuals and half-hardy bedding plants. In very small gardens, where space is limited, a few roses and flowering shrubs are often planted amongst the herbaceous plants.
Aspect. —The border should be give an open sunny situation, well away from the roots or the drip of trees, with a background of shrubs, a hedge, fence, wall, or row of sweet peas to form a proper setting, and to provide shelter for the taller kinds. In large gardens the herbaceous borders often accupy a prominent position in the vegetable garden, with a background of espalier trained fruit trees or a wall on which fruit trees or tender climbers are trained.
Width. —Although much depends on the size of the garden and the height of the plants to be employed, good
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER
108
effects with grouping and massing cannot be obtained on very narrow borders. In small gardens three feet may be the maximum amount of space obtainable, in which case only dwarf or semi-dwarf plants should be used; six feet is a reasonable width; nine feet is better, and in large gardens twelve to fifteen feet would not be too much to allow for the massing of various kinds. The front or edge of the border can curve gently or it may be straight according to the general layout of the garden.
Drifts of plants in the herbaceous border as a change from formal regular lines.
Perennials are greedy plants, and unless they make satisfactory growth they will not flower well. The border should be trenched with a liberal dressing of stable manure, compost heap, wood ashes, and lime rubble worked in. If the soil is heavy give a dressing of lime, sand, and coke breeze; if light, add turfy loam and clay to improve the texture. Wherever possible a new border should be trenched in the autumn and left to settle down before planting takes place in the spring.
When to Plant.—Early autumn, say April, is probably the best time to plant perennials. The soil is then still suflScently warm to cause new roots to develop, and to enable the plants to become established by the spring, thereby securing better results the first vear. Planting
109
PRACTICAL GARDENING
is not recommended during the winter months, but it may be resumed again in spring.
Planning and Group Planting.—ln all eases it is better to plant in bold irregular-shaped groups, it being a good idea to have a plan prepared showing the size and position of each. The size of the groups will depend on the extent of the border, but there should not be less than three plants to each, and as many as twelve or fifteen for more desirable kinds. It cannot be too strongly 7 emphasised that the best effects are obtained by planting in bold groups or drifts of irregular outline. When the individual groups are small the effect is apt to be patchy.
Hard and regular lines are to be avoided, and while it is desirable to keep the dwarf kinds near the front and the taller ones near the back so that they may be seen to advantage, here and there the tall ones can come well to the front and the dwarfer kinds go nearly to the back, thus forming bays in which it is often an advantage to plant varieties of one plant such as pseonies, irises, astilbes, and lilies.
The colour and height of the individual plants are two important points to be borne in mind when planning. In very large gardens it may be possible to have special colour borders such as blue borders, gold borders, pink borders, etc., but in most gardens it is only possible to have one. A very good display can be obtained by arranging the more delicate shades at the ends of the border with the stronger ones in the centre; or an equally 7 successful method is to mix the colours from end to end, taking care to avoid harsh contrasts.
The nature of the inflorescences of plants has to be considered, and so have their contrasting habits a tall upright group being surrounded by those of a more squat spreading habit. Foliage contrasts are also important, and those with large broad leaves should be planted beside those with narrow or swordlike foliage.
The following are plans for borders 6 feet and 9 feet wide respectively, and 50 feet long, together with selections of plants for the various groups chosen, with the object of providing a succession of bloom from early summer until late autumn.
Good types of Bedding Pansies. Kelway’s Model.
One of Kelwav ’s Delphiniums. Monarch of All.
LINE OF BACK OF BOEDER
s as to m hj Co r> hj o c; to to O to to to to
If it should be desired to iuclude lilies in Tig. 1, a part of Group 10 might be planted with Lilium Croceum, a 0 portion of No. 5 with Lilium Szovitzianum, and Lilium Henryi might be planted between the Delphiniums in Group 17. Also Hyacinthus oandicans, a fine liliaceous plant, might be grown between the Iris in Nos. 8 and 20 to flower after the Iris. Parts can be planted with spring flowering bulbs to be followed by annuals.
‘27 Michaelmas Daisy, Glory of Colwell
29 Michaelmas Daisy, Rachel Ballard
35 Papavcr nudicaulc, mixed colours
26 Iris, Madame Chereau
28 Campanula carpatica alba
Scale 8 feet to the inch
20 Eryngium amethystinum
30 Helenium, Riverton Gem
19 Pyrethrum, Jas. Kelway
25 Geranium lancastriense
21 Helianthus multiflorus
22 Campanula turbinata
24 Hyacinthus candicans
32 Plumbago Larpentiaj
23 Pentatemon Torreyi
34 Aconitum napcllus
31 Phlox cocquelicot
33 Phlox amoena
36 Hollyhocks
Fig. 1 is for a border (3 feet wide and 50 feet long.
No.
xavuvuvu, * 11 Michaelmas Daisy, Anita Ballard
0 Alyssum saxatile compactum
5 Lupinus polyphyllus rosea
3 Arabia albida flore-pleno
10 Heuchera, Flambeau
4 Eudbcckia purpurea
12 Coreopsis lanceolata
1 Aconitum Wilsonao
2 Erigeron apeciosus
15 Linum narbonensc
16 Scabiosa caucasica
14 Galega officinalis
9 Veronica spicata
18 Sidalcea Listen
7 Tritoma uvaria
13 Lilium regale
17 Delphiniums
8 Iris Alcazar
No.
Fig. 1.
cc
LINE OF BACK OF BOEDER
>0 a*. r> s o a* f' <n a* sj t) t>i 5? •-i fe: o
oc
Similarly in Fig. 2 a portion of No. 5 might be planted with Lilium tigrinum, part of No. 16 with Lilium speciosum, part of No. 28 with Lilium Szovitzianum, part of No. 36 with Lilium chaleedouicum, and Lilium Henryi in parts of Nos. 10 and 33, while Hyacinthua candicans might bo planted between the other plants in Nos. 11, 21 and 81. Some of these can be replaced with annuals and spring flowering bulbs.
29 Chieranthus, Mrs. Marshall or
37 Sedum spectabilc purpureum
86 Michaelmas Daisy, Amelins
30 Campanula carpatica alba
35 Homerocallis nurantiaca
39 Rudbeckia, Golden Glow
31 Hyacinthus candicans
32 Campanula macrantha
33 Cimicifuga racemosa
41 Anemone jnponicn
Scale 8 feet to the inch.
38 Phlox amoena
40 Hollyhocks
Allionii
34 Solidago
No.
25 Michaelmas Daisy, Rachel Ballard
Fig. 2 shows a border 9 feet wide and 50 feet long.
18 Chrysanthemum maximum
15 Veronica spicata rosea
rj j uiiM.a ojjivai/a * uovu 16 Phlox, G. A. Strohlein
28 Rudbeckia Newmanni
24 Campanula lactiflora
2fi Rudbeckia purpurea
27 Coreopsis lanceolata
21 Iris, Queen of May
23 Scabiosa caucaaica
17 Helenium striatum
Fig. 2.
]9 Heliopsis Irovis
22 Nepeta Mussinii
20 Delphiniums
No.
9 Alyssum saxatile compactum
14 Campanula persicifolia alba
8 Phlox, Elizabeth Campbell
7 Michaelmas Daisy, Climax
13 Anchusa Italica, Dropmore
2 Anemone japonica alba
3 Viola gracilis A. famnannlfl maPMTitnn
4 Campanula macrantha
•7 XLIJ OOUili nrtAUUU> 10 Campanula lactiflora
6 Erigeron aurantiacua
1 Aconitum Wilsonae
5 Poppy, Mrs. Perry
11 Iris, Purple King
12 Lilium regale
No.
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER
83
Planting.—This should be done when the soil is in a friable condition such as is often experienced in the autumn. If soil is wet and sticky, delay until the spring. The distance apart is governed by the size and habit of the plant. As a general rule for the plants near the front of the border 9to 12 inches is sufficient. For phlox, pyrethrums, and heleniums, 18 to 24 inches will suffice; but for delphiniums, helianthus, and lupins, 2 to 3 feet between the plants is not too much. The clumps should always be planted so close together that when the plants are in full growth no bare soil will be showing.
Dividing a Michaelmas Daisy root with two pointed sticks.
The holes for the plants should be large enough to allow the roots to be spread out in a natural manner. The crowns of fibrous-rooted kinds should be planted just under the surface, but never above the normal level. Fleshy-rooted plants such as Alstromerias and Pseonies require planting a little deeper, and care has to be taken not to break the fleshy roots when firming the soil about them.
It is important to mark the position of each group with a stick and a large strong label at least a foot long.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
115
By preparing a plan and writing in the names of each kind a permanent record is obtained.
Replanting.—To maintain a border in first-class order it is necessary to have a reserve of plants to replace any which may die, and it is also advisable to have a supply of half-hardy annuals, dahlias, and chrysanthemums to put in amongst any kinds which are past their best, as well as to fill up the blanks left when spring-flowering bulbs ripen off and spring-flowering plants are cleared out.
In some large public gardens it is the custom to have a stock of plants growing in pots to replace those which are over.
Staking and tying up chrysanthemums.
Fig. 2. The right way
Fig. 1. The wrong way,
There are certain perennials, such as pteonies, which do not flower until they become established; but most of the spreading kinds soon become overcrowded and starved, and it is advisable every three or four years to lift all the plants, put them in a cool moist place, trench and manure the border and replant again. Michaelmas daisies are better when replanted every year.
Maintenance. —During early spring it is advisable to go over the delphiniums, michaelmas daisies, and phlox and reduce the shoots to five or six on each plant. Scuffle
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER
85
hoeing has to commence as soon as the soil is dry enough in spring, and should be continued right on to the autumn. A mulch of well-rotted manure or leaf mould helps to retain moisture during dry weather.
Staking.—Staking has to commence at an early stage, and it is advisable to provide small preliminary stakes at first, to be replaced later by stronger and taller ones as growth proceeds. Twiggy branches stuck in among the growths and around the groups so that the plants grow up through them are very effective. By staking in this way the natural grace of the plant is retained.
Whichever method is adopted the operations should start early, before the plants tumble over and become twisted. Smaller plants can be supported by neat bamboo stakes, which are pushed well into the ground at first and gradually pulled up as growth proceeds.
Cutting Over.—Once past their best the flower stems can be cut over, but the foliage should not be cut right down until the autumn. To cut over the leaves before they have ripened will weaken the plants for the future, and the foliage of all bulbous and tuberous kinds must be allowed to ripen off properly.
List of Useful Herbaceous Perennials
Tall Growing.
Colour.
Blooms
Achillea Eupatorium
clear sulphur yellow late S
rich blue A
Aconitum Wilsonii
Anchusa italiea, Dropmore var
blue S
Anchusa italiea, Opal
pale blue S
Artemisia lactiflora
cream A
Bocconia cordata
amber white S
Campanula lactiflora
pale blue S
Delphiniums, in variety
blue, violet purple S
Echinops Ritro
blue S
Eryngium oliveranum
grey-blue A
Eupatorium purpureum
deep purple A U1 ’ A „ O
Galega, His Majesty
soft blue and white S
Helenium, Riverton Beauty
lemon yellow A
Helenium, Riverton Gem
gold and bronze red A
117
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Herbaceous Perennials (continued)
Ilelianthus, Monarch
„ multiflorus
„ orgyalis
„ sparsifolius
Heliopsis seabra
Hollyhocks, in variety
Kniphofia aloides grandiflora
Michaelmas daisies, varieties
Rudbeckia laciniata,
„ Golden Glow
„ nitida Herbstonne
Thalictrum aquilegifolium
„ aquilegifolium
purpureum
„ dipterocarpum
Medium Height.
Achillea, The Pearl
Aconitum Fischeri
Anemone japonica
Anthemis Kelwayii
Centaurea macrocephala
Chrysanthemum, max. var.
Coreopsis grandiflora
Erigeron, Quakeress
Gaillardia, varieties
Gypsophila paniculata
fiore-pleno
„ Bristol Fairy
Helenium, Crimson Beauty „
„ pumilum
magnificum
Hemerocallis, in variety
Iris, in variety (bearded) „
~ bulbous
Kniphofia, in variety
Liliums, in variety
Lupins, in variety
Lychnis chalcedonies
deep orange A
gold and yellow A
bright yellow A
deep yellow A
orange A
S & A
scarlet and gold A
A
yellow A
rich yellow A
cream S
purple S
lavender violet S
Colour. Blooms.
white S & A
pale blue A
white and pink A
sulphur yellow S
golden yellow S
white A
yellow A
pale blue A
gold, yellow & red S& A
white S
white S
bronze crimson S
deep yellow S
orange A
various S
various S
scarlet and yellow A
white, orange & yellow S
various S
scarlet July
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER
118
Herbaceous Perennials ( continued)
Medium Height.
Colour. Blooms.
Michaelmas daisies,
Amellus type
i blue-lavender A
Michaelmas daisies,
ericoides type
white A
Monarda didyma
scarlet S
various S & A
Phlox, in variety
Paeonies, in variety
various S
various S
Poppies, in variety
Physalis Franehetti
orange fruits A
Pyrethrum, in variety
various S
blue S
Salvia patens
Scabiosa caucasica,
House’s var.
lilac mauve A
Statice latifolium
blue A
Colour. Blooms.
Dwarf growing.
white and blue A
Campanula carpatica
Dianthus (Allwoodii)
pink S
orange and crimson S
Geums, in variety
Heucheras, in variety
red and pink S
Linum narbonense
deep blue S
blue S
„ perenne
lavender S
Nepeta Mussinii
white A
QEnothera speciosa
rose pink A
Mexicana
yellow S
macrocarpa
Pansies, in variety
various S
Phlox divaricata, variety
pale blue S
Phlox subulata, varieties
various S
Potentilla, Gibson’s Scarlet
scarlet S
blue and purple A
Salvia virgata nemorosa
pink A
Sedum spectabile
purple S
Stachys lanata
white S
Tiarella cordifolia
Trollius, in variety
yellow and orange S
dark blue S
Veronica incana
„ repestris tt: „ i
bright blue S
Violas, in variety
various S
PRACTICAL GARDENING
119
Hardy Herbaceous Perennials for partly shaded border.
Aconitum Napellus „ autumnal e
Lythrum, in variety
Monarda didyma
CEnothera Praseri
Ancbusa myosotiflora
Anemone japonica
Omphalodes cappadocica
Campanula persicifolia
Pseonies
Campanula lactiflora
Phlox
Cimicifuga simplex
Polyanthus Rudbeckia
Funkia ovata
Funkia Sieboldiana Helleborus, var. Helenium autumnale
Sedum spectabile
Spirasa palmata
Trollius
Lysimachia, in variety
Violas
Hardy Plants with grey foliage.
Achillea argentia
Nepeta Mussinii
Alyssum saxatile
Pinks
Artemisia stelleriana
Santolina Cbamaecyparissus
Cerastium Biebersteinii
Stachys lanata
Gypsophila
Veronica incana
Lavender
Two types of garden cloches.
SPECIAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS
Delphiniums.—These are almost indispensable for the herbaceous border, and are the true blue aristocrats among the hardy perennials. Their large semi-double flowers, ranging in colour from white to pale blue, rich violet, and purple, are borne on spikes up to three feet in length, on distinct stalks. They thrive in deep wellcultivated soil enriched with well-decayed cow manure,
SPECIAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS
120
and though quite easy to raise from seed, it is better to obtain the named varieties, which are far superior. Though novelties are expensive, quite good kinds can be had at a reasonable rate. Plants from these can be raised from cuttings, which should be taken in spring when the growths are about three inches long, care being taken to have a heel at the base of each. Inserted in boxes of
A delphinium cutting rooted.
sandy soil or in a cutting bed under a hand light they soon root, and may then be planted out in a well-prepared border.
Slugs are very fond of delphiniums, and as a preventive it is advisable to surround the plants with coal ashes or a piece of zinc in early spring before growth is apparent. Dustings of soot are also a deterrent. The following is a list of good reliable varieties:—
Flowers pale blue —Elegance, Queen Mary, Captivant Bine Queen, Belladonna grandiflora.
121
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Flowers dark blue —Mrs. H. Kaye, F. W. Smith, Lord Derby, Mr. J. S. Brunton, Orion, Blue Bird, Blue Boy, Wrexham.
Flowers purple and violet —Rev. E. Laseelles, King of Delphiniums, Mr. Creighton, The Alake, Sir Douglas Haig, Violet Queen.
Flowers pale blue and mauve —Nora Ferguson, Mrs. Colin Melvor, Lavonda, Millicent Blackmore, Mrs. Andrew Carnegie.
Flowers blue and motive —Major Pat A’Beckett Admiration, The Shah.
The Easily-grown Iris.—The bearded or flag irises, which flower in early summer, like an open sunny position, a well-drained soil, and plenty of lime. As the rhizomes soon grow above the ground, they are better re-planted every three years, the best time being immediately after flowering. Trench, manure, and lime the beds or borders and plant eighteen inches apart, just sufficiently deep to cover the rhizome. They are very satisfactory in groups in the herbaceous border, or in beds or borders by themselves. The following are good varieties: —
White or nearly white —White Knight, Mystic. White standards, coloured falls —Blue Chintz, Rhein Nixe.
Purple Bicolors —Lord of June, Titan, Imperator, Sir Michael, Yeoman, Romola.
Purple Selfs —Corrida, Mrs. Yvonne Pelletier, Norma, Pallida, Pallida Dalmatica, Mrs. Marion Cran.
Standards of shot shades —Alcazar, Tenebrae, Prosper Laugier, Lord Lambourne, Iris King.
Yellow Standards —Marsh Marigold, Flaming Sword. Yellow Varieties —Amber, Gold Imperial.
Iris Kaempferi, Japanese Iris.—These are most satisfactory when planted in a sunny situation near water, but will thrive in an ordinary moist border. They are better lifted and divided up every three or four years. They like plenty of manure dug in, and a mulching in spring.
SPECIAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS
122
Iris sibirica.—These are smaller than the Japanese iris, but useful for moist positions or beside water.
Iris unguicularis (stylosa).—This plant does best when well established on a poor sunny border. It likes lime and it should not be disturbed for years. Its delicate flowers, which are produced in winter and early spring, are excellent for house decoration.
Dividing Flag Iris. Cut at A and D.
Lily scale-producing bulbs.
Bulbous irises, such as the English, Spanish, and Dutch, which should be planted in the early autumn, are all very useful for providing groups in the mixed border, and are specially useful for cutting.
Lilies.—The various species and varieties of lilies are very useful for the mixed border or for growing among shrubs. They like a deep, well-drained soil, fairly rich and cool, and when doing well are better left undisturbed for several years. The popularity of lilies has increased with the introduction of the splendid species
92
PRACTICAL GARDENING
L. regale, and also since it has become the common practice to raise many species from seed. Seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe, in boxes or in a specially prepared bed under a frame or handlight. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they can be lined out on a piece of rich soil where some will flower the second and third year.
They can also be increased by means of offsets or bulb scales as the case may be.
It is important that the bulbs should be kept out of the ground for as short a period as possible. When re-planting put a handful of sand under and around each bulb, and mark the sites with a strong peg.
In spring they should receive a mulch with fine leaf mould, well-rotted cow manure, lawn mowings, or any material that will keep them cool and moist, and feed the bulbs. They like the same conditions as those provided for dwarf rhododendrons, and the semi-shade provided by paeonies or other similar plants is also appreciated.
List of kinds suitable for good loamy soil and depth of planting.
L. auratum and its varieties (Sin. to 10 in.)
L. regale (7 in.)
L. rubellum (6 in.)
L. Browni (7 in.)
L. speciosum and varieties (7 in.)
L. candidum (4 in.)
L. chalcedonicum (4 in.)
L, testaceum (4 in.)
L. tigrinum (8 in.)
L. croceum (6 in.)
L. Formosanum (7 in.)
L. umbellatum (8 in.)
L. Willmottiae (6 in.)
L. Henryi (9 in.)
L. Martagon (4 in.)
Moist shady peaty soil.
L. canadensis (6 in.)
L. pardalinum (4 in.)
L. giganteum (4 in.)
L. Gilrayi (4 in.)
L. Parryi (4 in.)
Paeonies.—Pasonies thrive in any good garden soil which has been deeply dug and well manured. The plants are gross feeders, and the roots penetrate a long way in search of food and moisture. Though their season of flowering
93
SPECIAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS
is a comparatively brief one they are wonderful when in bloom, and can be so grouped in the herbaceous border that they can be interplanted with lilies.
There are really three types—(l) the double-flowered kind, (2) single-flowered kind, (3) tree types.
They are all very impatient of root disturbance, and when well established should not be replanted for years. A good liberal mulch with well-rotted cow manure in spring is appreciated, and an occasional application of liquid manure with plenty of water during dry weather is necessary.
The following are good varieties:—
Double flowers—Duchess of Nemours, cream; M. Chas. Leveque, flesh pink; Marie Crousse, pale coral pink; War, crimson scarlet; Agnes Mary Kelway, light rose; General McMahon, crimson.
Single flowers—Silvo, rose pink; The Bride, white Victoria, deep blood crimson.
Phlox.—Few plants give such a brilliant display of colour during summer and autumn as the perennial phloxes. They prefer a rich loamy soil, and cannot endure dryness at their roots. A position should be selected where they are shaded from the sun during the hottest part of the day, for many of the delicate colours burn very readily. To maintain their vigour they should be replanted every third year, young plants being rooted from cuttings in spring, or obtained by dividing up the old stools and replanting young outside pieces. They like a mulch of manure or leaf mould during summer and liquid manure occasionally.
A small selection of reliable varieties is:—
Scarlet and salmon shades—Baron von Dedem, Etna, General von Heutz, G. A. Stroblein, Homeland, Pantheon.
Pink and rose shades—Elizabeth Campbell, Jules Gambon, Rynstroom, Riverton Jewel, Selma.
Violet, lilac, and mauve—Antonio Mercier, Le Mahdi, Border Gem.
White—Europe, F. A. Buckner, Mia Buys.
125
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Pyrethnuns.—Pyrethnuns are invaluable plants for an early summer display, and for providing cut flowers for bouse decoration. If the plants are vigorous they can be cut back after flowering, when they will occasionally flower again in autumn. They thrive on any good soil provided it is well-drained, but cannot endure cold, wet clays. The old plants should be divided every third or fourth year.
The following are good varieties: —
Pink shades—Agnes Mary Kelway, Eileen May Robertson, Mrs. J. Leake, Queen Mary.
Crimson and scarlet—Jas. Kelway, Langport Scarlet Mrs. Bateman Brown.
White—Aphrodite.
Montbretias.—These have been much improved during recent years. Their warm colours of orange, crimson, and brown make them extremely useful for borders and beds in late summer and autumn, when they are valuable for associating with autumn tints and berries for house decoration. They like an open sunny position and a light well-drained soil.
They are perfectly hardy', but soon become overcrowded, and are better lifted and replanted every second or third year. To allow them room to develop properly the corms should be planted from 4 to 6 inches apart. The season for replanting is as soon as the foliage ripens in the autumn, or when growth commences in the spring.
Good varieties are Germania, His Majesty, Joan of Arc, Lady Hamilton, Prometheus, Star of the East, and Queen Alexandra.
Gladioli.—The gladiolus has become very popular during recent years, both as a garden plant and as a cut flower, and much of this popularity is due to the introduction of a new race called Primulinus Hybrids. These have been obtained by crossing a comparatively small species from tropical Africa with the large-flowered garden kinds. These, with small flowers of all imaginable shades nicely distributed on thin stems, are very suitable for cutting, not being at all stiff or heavy.
SPECIAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS
126
The primulinus colours have also been obtained in the large-flowered kinds, which are now more attractive than ever.
Gladioli can be grown from corms, spawn or bulblets, and seed. As seed saving and the raising of seedlings is so simple, many amateurs are successfully raising their own supplies. Seed is collected as soon as ripe, and sown at once in a well-drained specially prepared bed, and covered with fine sifted soil. It germinates unevenly, and some seedlings may not appear until the following spring. The first year they make corms the size of peas, and the second year some will attempt to flower, but they should not be allowed to do so until the third year, when they will he sizable corms. If the seedlings are too thick in the seed bed the small corms can be collected
How to plant gladioli bulbs. A —ln light soil 4 to 5 inches deep. B—ln heavy soil 2 to 3 inches deep.
and lined out in rows 6 to 9 inches apart, allowing 1 to 2 inches between the corms in the rows.
There are usually quantities of cormlets round the base of the old flowering corms, and if these are collected and sown in broad drills like garden peas they will soon develop into flowering size, which will be more or less like those they were taken from.
The old conns wither away and often two or more new ones appear in their place. These are the true flowering corms, which are cleaned and stored away for next year’s planting.
Gladioli will grow in any well-drained soil which is reasonably rich. When trenching, work in a good dressing of well- rotted cow or stable manure, keeping
127
PRACTICAL GARDENING
it well down so that it will not come into contact with the newly-planted corms. Give a good dusting of superphosphate and lime on the surface about three weeks before planting, and work it in when breaking down and preparing the soil.
The position of the gladiolus bed should be an open sunny one, sheltered as far as possible from the cold south-west winds.
For exhibition purposes and for cut flowers they should be planted in beds 4 feet wide in rows 6 to 9 inches apart, the corms being placed 6 inches apart in the rows and buried 4 inches deep.
For garden decoration they can be planted in groups in the herbaceous border or in beds carpeted with some suitable spreading plants, such as Phlox Drummondii and Verbena.
To keep the spikes upright stout stakes should be provided to which they are tied securely.
About five to seven weeks after flowering the plants can be lifted, tied into bundles, and hung up, or they may be spread out in boxes and stored in a cold frame. When the tops ripen they are cut off at three inches from the corms, which when perfectly dry, are cleaned and stored away in boxes or paper bags.
To maintain a succession of flowers corms can be planted at intervals of a fortnight from spring on to midsummer.
As quantities of new varieties are introduced every year it is not advisable to give a list of names which would be superseded by newer and improved varieties in a short time.
Galtonia candicans is such a striking feature in the gardens in late summer that it deserves special mention. It likes a cool moist soil, and can be planted in groups in the shrubbery, in a mixed border, or in beds with suitable carpeting plants, such as verbena or asters. It soon increases, and should be lifted and replanted every two years.
Perennial Phlox.
Long-spurred Aquilegias.
Pentstemon. Large flowering. Nimmo & Blair.
Gaillardia. Nimmo & Blair.
[4]
I—— Iris Xiphinum. Spanish Iris.
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Other bulbous plants suitable for the herbaceous border are Crinums, Agapanthus, Dierama or “Fairy Bells,” Watsonias, Day lilies, and Snowflakes.
Pentstemons.—Pentstemons are useful for both beds and borders, and though they are perfectly hardy and will flower for several years, in time they become woody and unsatisfactory. It is a good idea to sow a packet of seed each year, and to select the best and most vigorous plants for propagating by means of cuttings. These are taken off with a heel when possible, inserted in boxes of sandy soil, and stood in the cool greenhouse or in frames during the winter. In the spring they will be well-rooted and ready to plant out.
Primulas.—There is now a wonderful selection of species and varieties of hardy primulas, many of which are recent introductions from China and the Himalayas. They like cool, moist bog, or semi-aquatic conditions, and are excellent for planting in partial shade among rhododendrons, or beside streams and pools. They are very easy to raise from seed, and should receive treatment similar to the Polyanthus primrose.
P. japonica belongs to the candelabra section, and can be had in colours ranging from white to deep crimson. Other good primulas are Beesiana, Bulleyana, Pulverulenta, Algida, Burmanica, Capitata, Forresti, Florindas Kosea grandiflora, Wanda, Bed Hugh, Sikkimensis, Heledoxa.
Lupins.—The perennial lupins are noble plants for the herbaceous border and shrubbery, and can now be had in many delightful art shades, with enormous upright spikes.
They like a deep rich soil. As they resent root disturbance, when once established they should be left undisturbed. Planted as individuals or in groups of three to five they are very effective in early summer.
Oriental Poppies.—These gorgeous poppies should have a place in every mixed or herbaceous border, where they provide a feature in early summer. They can be grown
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from seed or increased by means of root cuttings or divisions. They need support of some kind, and this can be provided by means of twiggy branches or stakes with strings tied across to prevent the flowers from falling to one side.
Sweet Peas.—The sweet pea, Lathyrus odoratus, is one of the most useful hardy plants for the production of cut flowers for house decoration. It is really a hardy annual, but is usually treated as a biennial, the seed being sown
Trench for winter sweet peas. A—Top Soil. B—Second spit. C—Bottom spit, broken up.
Special seed-raisers provide an excellent way of growing Sweet Peas. One seed is sown in each compartment. When the interior frame is lifted out each plant is left in a square of soil ready for transplanting.
in the autumn for the following season’s flowering; or it can be treated as a half-hardy annual, in which case the seed is sown in heat in spring, and after being hardened off the plants are set out in their flowering positions.
For autumn sowing two seeds are put into a three-inch pot, or twelve round the inside of a six-inch pot, or the seeds can be sown in boxes at 2 inches apart, either in pieces of turf or ordinary soil. These are stood on a bed of ashes in a frame or hand-light in an open sunny
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position, the lights being left oil except during very severe weather. The seedlings have to be protected from slugs by frequent dustings of lime, and from birds by fine wire netting.
When sown in spring three or six-inch pots, boxes, or other suitable containers are used. Keep in the warm greenhouse until germination takes place, and then stand in a cool airy situation to encourage sturdy growth. When about five inches high the tips of the shoots are pinched out to cause branching. They are then placed out in cold frames and gradually hardened off.
Transplanting Sweet Peas. Plants must have strong roots, and the hole must be made large enough to take the roots when spread out. Growth will then soon begin. The alternative method is to plant with a ball of earth about the roots.
Seeds can also be either sown in autumn or spring in the open where they are to grow and flower, but a longer season and better flowers are obtained from transplanted plants.
Preparation of the Soil.—Sweet peas will grow in any soil provided it is trenched, limed, manured, and well drained. They however, like an open sunny position, and are often planted to provide shelter for other plants or to form a background for a flower border. The ground should be trenched two or three feet deep, the trench being made two feet wide. The soil should be thrown out, and if wet and heavy a layer of brickbats or clinkers can be put in the bottom for drainage. Put in a layer of farmyard manure or compost heap, mixing it with
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soil, and then fill in the top soil, leaving it about nine to twelve inches above the manure.
Lime rubble or lime and wood ashes are mixed in with the top soil in the autumn and phosphate in spring. Good ordinary results can be obtained by double digging the trench and burying the manure under the top spit.
The preparation of the trench should be carried out in the autumn or early winter, and the surface left rough to expose it to the elements during the winter.
In spring give a dusting of lime and superphosphate, which will be worked in during the forking, levelling, firming, and raking operations. Planting out can be done as soon as weather conditions are favourable in spring, the seedlings being placed at a foot apart, whether to be grown as cordons or to be allowed to branch at will. Stick in some pieces of twiggy branches on either side of the row to protect the plants from rough weather and birds, and dust with lime to keep off slugs.
Grown as cordons to provide cut flowers.—When the primary object is to produce cut flowers either for exhibition or house decoration, it is better to train the plants as single or double cordons on smooth bamboo stakes about six to eight feet in height. All side shoots have to he nipped out, all tendrils cut off, and the plants tied up regularly with raffla. It is also advisable to cut the flowers regularly, and the more delicate colours may require to be shaded from strong sunshine.
When the stems reach the top of the stakes they are cut away from them, laid along the surface of the soil, and then tied to other stakes placed at the required distance. This may have to be done twice during the season, but it saves the excessively tall stakes which would otherwise have to be provided, the plants are easier to shade and shelter, and there will be strong straight stems always bearing four or more flowers nicely spaced.
When grown in the ordinary way they are more suitable for garden decoration, but the stalks are short and twisted, and the number of flowers per stem is limited.
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Sweet peas soon suffer during dry weather, and they should be given a mulch of strawy manure or grass mowings, and frequent waterings, occasionally with liquid manure.
They are usually grown in rows on fences or stakes, but are also effective when grown as pillars on wire netting or scrub in the mixed or herbaceous border, or on the margin of a lawn.
By kind permission of the publishers of “ The Garden
How to propagate Dahlias.
As new and improved varieties are constantly being introduced it is not advisable to include a list of the best varieties. These should represent pink, crimson, salmon pink, orange, white, and various intermediate shades.
The Dahlia.—Though the dahlia, -which is a native of Mexico, and is usually considered a tender plant, is cut down by the first frost, it is almost a hardy perennial, for if left in the ground it will come up again the following year. There has been great improvement in this flower, as in many others, and new types have been introduced.
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Coltness Gem with its many varieties is now one of the most popular of bedding plants, and has taken the place of the scarlet geranium to a considerable extent.
It will thrive in any kind of soil, provided it is deeply cultivated, well drained, and liberally manured with either stable or cow manure. Dahlia beds and borders should be trenched or double dug and manured in the autumn, and in the spring a dressing of lime and bone dust can be worked in while preparing the ground for planting. If the soil is heavy give a dressing of lime rubble or sand; if light mix in some turfy loam or clay.
Propagation can be carried out by division of the old tubers, by cuttings, or by means of seeds, the first two being the only methods of increasing named varieties.
Cuttings.—To obtain cuttings the old tubers are packed into boxes of light soil and put into heat. As soon as the young growths are three inches long they are taken off with a heel, and after being put into small pots of light sandy soil, they are watered and plunged in bottom heat in a propagating case or under a bell glass, and prevented from wilting until rooting takes place. As soon as they have rooted they are stood in a light airy place and then potted up into small pots of rich soil. They are again potted on to five inch pots in which they will develop into good plants ready to plant out in November.
Division of the Tubers—The old tubers are put into the warm greenhouse, and when the young growths appear round the base of the old flower stems they are shaken clear of soil and divided up into pieces, care being taken to see that each part of the tuber has a shoot or very evident bud. These pieces are potted up into five inch pots, and kept in the warm greenhouse until they recover from the shock, when they are gradually hardened off. They are planted out in November.
A more rough, and ready, though equally effective method for dealing with ordinary common varieties is to start the tubers in boxes, harden them off, and divide them up when planting out. By this method the plants get a big check, from which they take some time to recover, and consequently are later in flowering.
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Old tubers left in the ground come away quite well in spring, and if they are protected with a forkful of strawy manure or some scrub they develop early, and make sturdy plants. Dahlias treated in this way when planted in the shrubbery are very effective, and produce quantities of flowers suitable for cutting.
The single and semi-double kinds are quite easily raised from seed when treated like the ordinary half-hardy annuals.
Disbudding dahlias. A—Crown bud (to be left). B—Buds and growths to be removed.
Planting.—lt is a mistake to plant out dahlias too soon. We are liable to get late frosts and cold weather in October, and if they get a check in the early stages they take some time to recover.
The dwarf kinds can be planted at 18 inches to 2 feet apart, the medium growers 2 feet to 2J feet, and the strong growers to 3 feet apart.
Place temporary stakes where the plants are to go, plant firmly and carefully, and at once tie the young growths securely to the stakes. If the soil was not manured in the autumn dig a hole 18 inches wide and 2 feet deep, put in two forkfuls of well-rotted farmyard manure, mix it with the soil, fill in and add a handful of bone meal. Should the plants be soft and the weather
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dry a few twiggy branches stuck in round them will provide protection for a few days.
After treatment.—The large-flowered kinds should be kept to one stem at first, and later to not more than three. The buds are thinned out and all old flowers removed, the object being to get medium-sized flowers on long stiff stalks suitable for cutting.
The dwarf and semi-dwarf kinds can be allowed to make as many branches as they like, these being looped up to a strong stake, and all old flowers should be picked to prevent the formation of seed.
During dry weather they will require regular watering with liquid manure once a week, and a mulch of stable manure or lawn mowings will help to conserve moisture. During wet weather a dusting of blood and bone manure can be given instead of liquid manure. As soon as the growth is well under way, the preliminary stakes have to be replaced by good stout ones, to which the branches are regularly looped up.
In the autumn as soon as the plants are cut down by frost the tubers can be lifted, the stems cut off about a foot from the tubers, and after drying they can be packed in boxes of dry soil and stored away in a frost-proof shed. In districts where frosts are not severe they can be covered with boxes and stored at the bottom of a hedge, or they can be stored in a sand heap and covered with a few branches.
Dahlias make very useful bedding plants, especially the dwarf kinds, which soon fill in beds of either large or small dimensions, and continue to flower until cut down by frost.
In recent years it has been the practice in large gardens to mass the taller kinds in borders, which sometimes extend, in public gardens, to a quarter of a mile in length. By massing the colours and mixing the types a wonderful display is ensured throughout the summer and autumn months.
When dahlias are planted in beds it is better to interplant with nemesia, stocks, or some other early-flowering annuals that will provide colour until the dahlias come into flower.
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Kinds of Dahlias.—(l) Mignon or dwarf bedding.— These are dwarf varieties averaging eighteen inches in height, useful for bedding, for ribbon borders, or for edging borders of the larger types. Coltness Gem is the type, but there are now many other varieties.
(2) Star. —These are dwarf kinds, useful for bedding, but specially useful for cutting for house decoration.
(3) Singles.—Being free flowering these make a brilliant display in the garden, and are useful for cutting. Their average height is about 3 feet.
(4) Large Pasony.—These have large semi-double flowers borne on strong stiff stems. They are useful for cutting and for massing in borders. Average height 3J to 4 feet.
(5) Dwarf Pseony.—This section is specially suitable for bedding, and contains many beautiful varieties. Average height 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 feet. These have been called charm dahlias.
(6) Large Decorative—This is probably the most popular section, with large double flowers in many wonderful colours. They are useful for massing and for exhibition.
(7) Small Decorative.—This section has small, neat, rounded flowers suitable for bedding, and as cut flowers, which last well in water. Their average height is from 2J to 3 feet.
(8) Cactus.—These were at one time the dahlias for exhibition purposes, and they still have numerous admirers. The type with upright flowers is suitable for bedding.
(9) Collarette.—This is a striking class of semi-double dahlias with a contrasting inner row of florets. They have long straight stalks, and are useful for cutting.
(10) Show or Fancy.—These are wonderfully regular in structure and markings, but are not so popular as formerly.
(11) Pompon.—These are neat little double varieties like miniature show dahlias. They are useful for bedding and cutting.
(12) Orchid-flowered.—This is a comparatively new single type with twisted and peculiarly marked petals.
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(13) Hybrid or Semi-Cactus.-—These are a very handsome class, well suited for exhibition or cut flowers. The pistils are twisted to a point, giving a light appearance.
Carnations and Pinks.—The Carnation is one of the most valuable of our hardy plants, useful for garden decoration, whether planted in beds, borders, or groups in the mixed border. Because of its grace and beauty and its lasting quality, the carnation is of exceptional value as a cut flower and for floral work.
There are numerous types of garden carnations, all of which are valuable for some special purpose. The following are the four principal groups:—
(a) Tree Carnations.
(6) Perpetual-flowering Border Carnations.
(c) Border Carnations.
( d ) Malmaison Carnations.
(a) Tree Carnations. —These may be distinguished by their upright growth and perpetual flowering habit. Though they can he grown satisfactorily in the open in New Zealand, in England and the United States of America they are grown chiefly under glass for furnishing greenhouses and for providing cut flowers, especially during the winter. As greenhouse plants grown in pots, they require a specially dry atmosphere during the winter, and are, therefore, not suitable for growing with the usual greenhouse occupants, but should be given a dry sunny house to themselves, such as a tomato house, where they will produce valuable cut flowers during the dull winter months.
Tree carnations are usually grown from cuttings consisting of side shoots about four or five inches in length taken from the stem. To obtain better cuttings, a few of the best plants are cut back a little when they have finished flowering, and the shoots which then sprout from near the base are pulled off with a heel which is trimmed with a sharp knife, and the lower leaves removed. These cuttings may be firmly dibbled in a bed composed of sand and leaf-mould in equal proportions, with a layer of clean sand spread over the surface. Where only a limited number of cuttings are required, four cuttings may be
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inserted round the inside of a three inch pot, which is then plunged in bottom heat. The best time for inserting cuttings is from April to the middle of June. As soon as they are rooted (which will be in about six weeks’ time) they are potted up into three inch pots and are given more air and less heat.
When established in these pots the tips of the plants should be pinched out to cause a branching habit to develop. When the plants recover from this operation they should he potted on into six or seven inch pots, in which they will remain.
Layering a carnation.
The potting soil for carnations should consist of 2 parts loam, 1 part leaf mould, and 1 part lime rubble and sand in equal proportions, with a six inch potful of wood ashes and bone meal to every barrow load of the mixture. The mixture should be prepared some time before it is required and should be turned occasionally. The final potting, wherein the soil should be well firmed about the roots, is carried out in November. During the summer, if there is no house available, the plants may be plunged in a bed of ashes in an open, sunny position.
During the summer attention has to be given to pinching and staking, but after January the flower shoots
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should be allowed to develop. When the flower buds appear their number should be reduced to one on each stem, and to prevent the calyx from splitting or bursting, it is advisable to put a rubber band round each.
Cross fertilising carnations with a camel-hair brush. Pollen is taken from the anther (left) of one flower and dusted on the stigma (right) of another.
After the pots have become filled with roots, a light top-dressing of approved carnation manure can be dusted on the surface and pricked in. To prevent rust and mildew, which are particularly liable to appear on housed plants, the plants should be sprayed with liver of sulphur (1 oz. to 3 gallons of water) or dusted with flowers of sulphur. A buoyant atmosphere should be maintained at all times, and during wet cold weather, a little fire heat will help to keep the atmosphere dry.
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Flowers should continue to develop during the winter, and in spring the old plants not required to furnish cuttings, can be planted outside, where they will continue to flower throughout the summer and autumn.
Perpetual carnations can also be layered by turning the plants out of the pots and planting them on their sides on a bed of sandy soil, thus bringing the shoots into contact with the compost, into which they are securely pegged down.
(6) Border and Perpetual-flowering Border Carnations. —The cultivation of border and perpetual flowering carnations is very similar. Both types like an open sunny position and a well-drained soil containing a liberal mixture of sea-sand and lime rubble.
The Perpetual-flowering border varieties have an upright habit, and produce young growths up the stems, whereas the border varieties produce all their young growths round the base of the stem, and have only one season of flowering. Both types are especially suitable for growing among newly-planted roses, which never require in their first year the whole of the space allotted to them. Carnations have the advantage, too, of flowering after the first crop of roses is over, and before the second crop comes on.
Though they will continue to flower for several years, border and perpetual flowering carnations give the best results when young plants are raised from layers each year. Layering, which has already been described, is done immediately after flowering is over. When the layers have developed sufficient roots, the young plants can be planted in their flowering quarters, either in the autumn or in the spring.
The cultivation of Malmaison Carnations is similar to that recommended for the tree carnation, except that the former must be kept under glass all through the summer. Old plants can be grown from year to year until they develop into large specimens.
Pinks.—The various varieties of pinks, including the old-fashioned border kinds, are very useful for edging
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beds and paths, for arranging in groups in the herbaceous border, as carpeting plants underneath deciduous shrubs, or for furnishing dry walls and crazy pavements. They are propagated by means of cuttings, which are made from young shoots cut just below a node or joint. The cuttings are prepared as follows: —A cut is made upwards through the node and a small piece of leaf is inserted to keep the wound open. They are then inserted into a bed of sandy soil and made firm.
Carnations Raised from Seed.—Carnations can be easily raised from seed, which is sown at the same time as the annuals. In the summer time the seedlings are lined out in the open. They will flower in the following
Cutting prepared in ordinary way.
Viola cuttings.
Cutting with roots attached.
Type of cutting to be avoided. It has a flower and the stem is hollow.
season. There is always a proportion of singles, which, although they may be utilised for cut blooms, are not worth perpetuating.
Marguerites or annual carnations are very useful as bedding plants, and will produce quantities of sweetly scented, fringed flowers of varied colours during the autumn and early winter. When required for cut flower purposes, they are planted out on a specially prepared border in an open sunny position. To insure a prolonged
Salvia patens.
Gypsophila paniculata.
Coreopsis grandiflora.
Scabiosa eaucasica. Pin-cushion Flower.
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flowers that can be used for house decoration. Though they are very hardy and will live even when neglected, they should be well cultivated if they are to produce regular supplies of flowers of good quality.
The plants may be easily propagated by dividing the old clumps, but to obtain the best results propagation should be effected by means of well-grown runners.
The violet bed should be deeply dug and well manured with farmyard manure. The cuttings, which are made by cutting off the end of the runners and removing all the old leaves to prevent excessive loss of moisture, are planted firmly in rows 12 inches apart with nine inches allowed between the plants. Four rows make a good bed, and a path 18 inches wide can be left between each bed. Another method is to select and prepare the runners as described, but instead of lining them out in their permanent positions at once, to plant them in rows nine inches apart, allowing six inches between the plants. This bed should be made in a cool semi-shaded position where the plants will thrive during the summer. In the early autumn they are lifted with a ball of soil and are planted in a cold frame or in an open sunny position, where they will flower well in spring.
It is not necessary to renew all the plants every year. After the flowering period is over, it is sufficient to remove the runners and top-dress the old plants with fresh soil and well-rotted manure. If a bed is regularly top-dressed in this manner, it will continue to produce flowers for several years, but a bed replanted every second year will give the best results.
Varieties to plant are the Czar, Princess of Wales, and Admiral Avellan.
The chief drawback to violet cultivation is in the susceptibility of the plants to attacks of red spider during hot dry weather. This pest may he kept in check by syringing the foliage and watering the plants regularly throughout the summer. A little nicotieide added to the water will make syringing more effective.
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flowering period, the seed should be sown under glass in the autumn.
Violas, Pansies and Violets.
Violas—sometimes called tufted pansies—are so like pansies in their requirements, that for cultural purposes they may be taken together. Plants may be grown from either seeds or cuttings, the former method being quite a good one when a satisfactory strain of seed is obtained. The seed is sown with that of the half-hardy annuals. After being pricked out and hardened off, the seedlings are planted out as edgings for beds or borders, or as carpeting underneath rose bushes and deciduous shrubs. Many of the seedlings will be of inferior quality, but there will always be many that are worth propagating by means of cuttings.
Violas and pansies like a cool moist soil that is well enriched with farmyard manure, and if they are given a semi-shaded position, they will continue to thrive and flower throughout the summer months. In autumn a bed of soil for cuttings can be prepared in a frame. This bed will consist of about three inches of cutting soil overlying a layer of brickbats or scrub to ensure good drainage. Cuttings are made from the young growths at the base of the old flowering stems; if they have a few roots so much the better. If the cuttings are too long, they should be cut across immediately below a joint. They should be inserted in the bed about two inches apart, and should be shaded with a piece of scrim, which should be tacked on and left during the winter, but removed when growth begins in the spring.
In early spring the plants will be well-rooted, and can be lifted with a ball of soil and planted in their flowering positions. They do particularly well among deciduous shrubs. A very fine effect may be obtained by carpeting deciduous azaleas with gold and brown pansies, the colours of which harmonise with those of the azaleas. Further, the pansies keep the roots of the azaleas cool during the heat of summer.
Violets.—Violets, which are much appreciated for their fragrance, if well grown will produce good long stalked
Eelway Hemerocallis fulva.
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TREES AND SHRUBS.
Though there is not usually much room for large forest trees in town gardens, they are so attractive and so useful for providing shade and shelter that in the country they should be planted in avenues, groves, or belts, or as individual specimens. Shelter and the supply of timber are both so important that wherever possible belts of Finns radiaia and other quick growing conifewe should be planted with one or two rows of Cupressus macrocarpa and C. Lawsoniana in the front to stop a ground draught when the pines become bare below. For shelter, the pines are planted from six to nine feet apart, the “macrocarpas” being placed from four to six feet apart. Where it is desirable to allow the sun to get in during the winter, deciduous trees such as Lombardy poplars, beech, birch, and hornbeams can be planted from four to six feet apart, and if necessary, these can be pruned up to form a hedge of considerable height.
Though the large trees are seldom suitable for town gardens, there are numbers of small or medium growing ones such as the various species and varieties of prunes, pyrus, etc., which would never become a nuisance either in one’s own garden or to neighbours.
Planting - . —Provided the ground is available and in good condition, planting in the autumn is to be preferred; but, except in the colder districts where frosts are severe, planting can be carried out at any time during the winter until growth commences in the spring. When seedling forest trees are planted, holes are not necessary. It is sufficient to loosen up the ground a little with a grubber, to make a slit opening deep enough to admit the roots without twisting them, and to allow the tree to be planted to the same depth as it was in the soil in the nursery. The soil must be firmly tramped round the tree. Specimen trees require a hole about two feet deep and wide enough to allow the roots to be spread out without bending or twisting. If the soil is unsuitable, it is better to procure good turfy loam, which should be chopped up with the spade, and the rougher material placed in the bottom of the hole to form a mound. The tree, with its roots resting
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on the mound, is then placed in the centre not any deeper than it was in the nursery rows. Spread the roots out evenly all round, throw in some fine soil which is worked in among the roots by shaking, and then add more soil, tramping it firmly as it is put in. Finish off the surface roughly, and if a stake is necessary provide it at once. It should be sufficiently tall to reach the top of the tree, which should be tied at least in three places with soft rope. To prevent rubbing and damage to the bark, the stem is sometimes surrounded with a piece of sacking or
a piece of rubber from an old motor cycle tyre. When planting strips or groups of deciduous trees, it is often an advantage to plant as nurse trees, a number of quick growing conifer®, which can be gradually thinned out until such time as the permanent trees are established, when the conifers can be removed altogether. Later cultivation is simple, for trees, once established, will grow quite well among grass; but to prevent fires, it is an advantage to mow this once a year and to keep a circular space weeded and cultivated round each tree.
Pruning should begin at an early stage to preserve one strong leading shoot, all side branches which threaten to usurp its supremacy being shortened back. Branches which grow inwards and across others should be removed, and all dead and decaying wood cut out regularly. Deciduous trees should eventually develop a rounded head with a clear stem of nine to twelve feet —tall enough to allow people to walk under the branches with comfort and safety. Conifers are usually branched from the ground upwards, but the branches should not be permitted to droop low enough to interfere with mowing and leaf-raking operations. Plantations should be pruned and thinned at an early stage of their development; all branches should be cut off to a convenient height, and should be dragged away and burned to prevent the outbreak of fires in the plantation.
Evergreen Trees. —Most of our evergreen trees are conifers, and there are kinds to suit all tastes, and gardens of all sizes, as well as those aspects where a more or less formal landscape effect is desired. The larger conifer®
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are Wellingtonia gigantea, Sequoia sempervirens (redwood), Douglas fir, Abies nordmanniana, Cedars of various kinds, such as C. deodara, C. atlantica, and C. Libani; Abies nobilis, Araucaria excelsa, Cryptomeria japonica, Thuya gigantea, Tsuga canadensis, Cupressus Lawsoniana, Cupressus sempervirens, and Thwyopsis dolobrata. The smaller conifer® are Yews, Junipers, Retinosporas, and Cryptomeria elegans. New Zealand conifer® are the Kauri, Totara, Red pine, Celery top pine, Cedar, and Silver pine. There are golden, glaucous, and variegated forms of many of the conifer® which are suitable for providing winter effects.
Evergreen trees which are not conifer® are Magnolia grandiflora, Moreton Bay Fig, Arbutus Menziesii, Clethra arborea, South African silver tree, several of the mediumsized gums, especially the crimson flowered one (Eucalyptus ficifolia), evergreen oaks, such as Quercus ilex, native birches, and the kowhai.
Deciduous trees suitable for large gardens and parks are English beech, oak, Turkey oak, ash, elm, poplars, willows, alders, walnuts, sycamores, horse chestnuts, swamp cypress, horse and sweet chestnuts. Deciduous trees suitable for the small garden and medium-sized gardens are laburnums, silver birch, mountain ash, tulip tree, copper beech, variegated and golden sycamores, and all the species and varieties of crab apples, flowering cherries, plums, almonds, and crategus.
Weeping, Horizontal, and Fastigiate Trees.—These are examples of ordinary trees with peculiar growths which are perpetuated by grafting or from cuttings. The upward growing Lombardy poplar and the weeping willow are the most commonly planted, but we have, too, the horizontal and weeping elm, and the weeping ash, all of which are popular as lawn specimens. There are also the less common weeping birch, the weeping Kilmarnock willow, the horizontal thorn, the weeping prunes, and Japanese maples, while the Italian cypress and the Irish yew are good examples of upright or fastigiate trees.
Shrubs. —Of recent years nurserymen have been intro ducing a much more interesting and beautiful range of
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151
hardy shrubs, so that it is now possible to have something of interest in the shrubbery all the year round. Shrubs to give of their best, require both good cultivation and judicious pruning. Even when they are planted on a grass bank, a circular space of at least three feet in diameter should be kept clear of weeds and regularly cultivated round the base of the specimens.
When preparing the ground it is better to trench it to a depth of two feet, and provide suitable drainage if the
A shrub cutting planted in April, after four months’ growth.
subsoil is of an impervious nature. If it is sandy or of a gravelly nature, a quantity of good turfy loam should be added. When the shrubs are planted in holes where there is no natural drainage, they should be provided with a suitable outlet; otherwise the holes fill up with water during the winter and the roots will perish for want of air.
When shrubs are planted to form a screen or shelter, deciduous kinds should be mixed with evergreens, and an overgrowth should be provided of flowering trees such as crab apples, prunes, flowering cherries, or laburnums.
Pruning Shrubs.—Though it is recognised that roses and fruit trees require annual pruning to obtain the best results,
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it usually happens that shrubs are neglected; or if they receive any attention at all, it is a mere clip over with the hedge shears regardless of flower buds.
Shrubs may be classified into those grown for their ornamental foliage, those which flower on spurs on the old wood, those which flower on the ripened wood of the previous season’s growth, and those which flower on the young wood of the current season’s growth.
How to sharpen hedge shears. The file is worked horizontally from heel to tip of the blade.
(1) Foliage Shrubs. —These are mainly evergreens or kinds with autumn tinted foliage. To preserve a reasonable shape they should be pruned with secateurs in autumn or winter, all dead wood being cut out, and branches touching the ground shortened back.
(2) Those which flower on spurs or ripened wood of the previous season’s growth or on both.—These include all the spring and early summer flowering shrubs, and pruning should be done while they are in flower or immediately they have finished flowering so that the young growth
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may develop, ripen, and set buds for the following season. As a rule, thinning is the only pruning required—weak and badly placed and dead wood should be cut out, and twisted shoots should be shortened back to preserve a pleasing shape in the specimens. Examples of such shrubs are Porsythias, lilacs, and azaleas.
(3) Those which flower on the current season’s wood mostly in summer and autumn. These should be cut right back to within a few inches of the old wood during winter, and all weak growths should be cut right out. Examples, Hydrangea hortensis in its many varieties, 11. paniculata, and Buddleias.
Shrubs grown for their ornamental bark, such as dogwoods and willows, are cut hard back in the spring, for the best coloured bark is that produced on the young growths.
The following are among the best shrubs for New Zealand gardens, but though the list is a long one, it is not by any means complete:—
Acacias (Wattles). —Though many of the wattles are tall trees, there are yet a number of reasonable size suitable for small gardens. Tall kinds are A. dealbata (silver wattle) , and A. decurrens (black wattle); dwarf kinds for small gardens are A. Baileyana (Cootamundra wattle), A. myrtifolia, and A. podalyriaefolia.
Azaleas.—See page 125.
Azara microphylla has glossy green foliage and small inconspicuous greenish yellow flowers which have a vanilla-like perfume.
Bamboos. —See page 127.
Banksias are peculiar looking shrubs or small trees with cone-like flowers.
Herberts. —This genus has been considerably augmented during recent years, and it now contains the best of the ornamental berry-bearing shrubs; B. vulgaris, with coral red fruits; B. stenophylla, B. Darivinii, B. Thunbergii, B. Wilsonae, B. dictyophylla, and B. virescens are some of the best species. Firefly, Autumn Cheer, and Sparkler are good hybrids.
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154
Boronia megastigma is a small twiggy evergreen bush bearing quantities of brown sweetly-scented flowers. This is a most desirable, though not long lived, plant, which likes a well-drained moist position. Other boronias have yellow and red flowers, but are not so sweetly scented.
Brooms.—The modem hybrid brooms, with their varied coloured flowers are very useful for poor dry stony gardens. CytisiLs Andreanus was the first to appear, but others of recent introduction are:— C. Dallimorei, C. Firefly, C. Daisy Hill, C. Dorothy Walpole, and C. Captain Hayes. Cytisus Beani is a neat little shrub for the front of the shrubbery or the rock garden; Genista JEtnensi is a tall late flowering kind. The native broom Notospartiwm Carmichaeliae is splendid on a bank or in a rock garden.
Buddleias.—These are rather coarse, quick-growing shrubs, very suitable for obtaining speedy effects in new borders and for sheltering more delicate plants from strong winds. B. globosa is well known, and so are the varieties of B. variabilis, but B. Colvillei, with geranium-coloured flowers, and B. salvifolia, with sweetly-scented mauve flowers, are not so common.
Callistemons (Bottle brushes) are slender shrubs, the flowers and prominent stamens of which vary in colour from white to deep crimson.
Camellias are well-known evergreens with glossy green foliage. The double-flowered kinds are a bit stiff, and not now fashionable, but the single and semi-double kinds are very decorative. C. reticulata is one of the best.
Carpentaria califomica is an evergreen with white flowers somewhat like a Cistus.
Chimonanthus fragrans (Winter sweet) has yellowish brown flowers, which are very fragrant.
Clethra arborea is one of the lily-of-the-valley shrubs which flower in autumn. It is not very hardy.
Comus mas is a deciduous shrub bearing yellow flowers in winter or early spring.
Cotoneasters.—The cotoneaster family has also been considerably increased during recent years, and there are
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
many species remarkable for their glossy green foliage, their bright red berries, and their brilliant autumn tints. C. honzontalis is one of the most suitable shrubs for covering a clay bank. C. Simonsii, C. frigida, and C. Dielsiana are good specimens to grow.
Crinodendron Hookeri is a remarkable evergreen shrub with pendant flowers.
Daphne indica is a desirable, spreading evergreen shrub, which is valued for its fragrant flowers. D. Mezereum is a deciduous small shrub with red or white flowers followed by ornamental berries.
Desfontania spinosa is a holly-like shrub with wax-like orange tubular flowers tipped with scarlet.
Deutzia.—These are ornamental shrubs with single or double white and blush-pink flowers. D. gracilis is a small species with white flowers; D. kalmiaeflora has blush pink flowers, and D. crenata fl. pi. is taller with double pink or white fringed flowers.
Diplacus glutinosus has mimulus-like flowers, orange yellow in colour.
Embothrium coccineum (fire bush) is a beautiful Chilian shrub or small tree bearing orange-scarlet flowers. Its common name is descriptive.
EnManthus japonica has peculiar bell-shaped flowers and beautiful autumn tints.
Epacris.—See page 127,
Ericas.—See page 126.
Escallonias are seaside shrubs, the common red, E. macrantha, and the white variety being used extensively for hedges. E. langleyensis is a pendulous hybrid with small pink flowers, suitable for growing over a bank.
Eucryphia pinnatifolia has white flowers with numerous stamens. The double variety is also attractive.
Exochorda grandiflora (Pearl bush) has beautiful white flowers in spring.
Forsythias.—This family is always admired in early spring, the long semi-pendulous or pendulous branches being wreathed in yellow flowers. F. suspensa, F. intermedia, and F. spectabilis are three of the best.
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Fremontia californica has greyish-green foliage and yellow wax-like flowers.
Grevilleas.— O. rohusta (silky oak) is usually grown as a greenhouse foliage plant, but in favourable situations it will grow into a small tree. G. rosmarinifolia and others are dwarf shrubs suitable for the rock garden.
Halesia Carolina, also called the snowdrop bush, has pendulous white flowers, but they are not so effective as those of the Styrax.
Hamamelis mollis is the best of the Witch hazels, and a very desirable plant for the winter, when it produces quantities of yellowish brown flowers with twisted petals.
Heaths.—See page 126.
Hydrangeas.—The modern hydrangea is one of the most popular of our hardy shrubs, the colourings of the flowers varying according to the nature of the soil. If the soil is sour they will be blue, if alkaline they will be pink. The colours can be controlled by the application of lime or alum. H. paniculata is a very ornamental shrub, which produces panicles of cream flowers in autumn.
Jasminums are used mainly as climbers, but J. primulinum, which has yellow flowers, forms a spreading bush.
Kalmia latifolia is an evergreen with peculiar pink flowers. It is called “Calico bush.”
Lasiandra macrantha has deep purple flowers, and is a very worthy shrub for the warmer districts.
Lilacs.—Though the common lilac is a very beautiful and fragrant shrub, the newer hybrids are to be preferred on account of their varied colours, the size of their flowers and the fact that they flower early. Good plants set with buds can be obtained, and will flower immediately after planting. A few of these hybrids are Charles X, Marie Legraye, Alphonse Louvelle, Chas. Jolly, Souv. de Louis Spdth.
Lomatia ferruginea has ornamental foliage and inconspicuous flowers.
Luculia gratissima is somewhat tender, but a very desirable shrub with bouvardia-like flowers.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Magnolias are among the most attractive of our flowering shrubs and small trees. M. conspicua is a deciduous tree and has large pure white flowers. M. soulangeana has a red strip up the centre of each petal, hut both are very free flowering. If. steUata has starry-white flowers and M. fuscata has flowers with a peculiar perfume.
Myrtle is a well-known shrub with glossy evergreen foliage and white flowers.
Philadelphus (Mock Orange).—There is a number of species and varieties of the mock orange blossom, remarkable for their sweetly-scented flowers. P. virginalis is a hybrid with semi-double large flowers, and the best of the others are Boule d’argent, Mont Blanc, and coronarius.
Pieris.—This family of dwarf lily-of-the-valley shrubs like similar conditions to those of rhododendrons. Pieris japonica (Andromeda), and P. floribunda are both useful for moist semi-shaded positions in the shrubbery.
Plumbago capensis is somewhat tender, but where it Will thrive it is worth planting for its pale blue flowers.
Prostanthera rotundifolia is a twiggy shrub with deep purple flowers. Other Prostantheras are Sieberi and lasianthos.
Rhododendrons.—See page 123.
Rhus.—Members of the Rhus family are remarkable for their beautiful autumn tints. B. Cotinus, the smoke bush, and R. succedena, are good kinds.
Romneya Coulter! (Californian Tree Poppy) is a straggly shrub with greyish foliage and large white flowers with yellow stamens.
Shrubby Spiraeas.—These are valuable both for their flowers and their autumn tints. 8. van Houttei, 8. japonica, Anthony Waterer, 8. prunifolia, 8. Lindleyana, and 8. cantoniensis are all good.
Stranvaesia Davidiana has glossy evergreen foliage and bright red hawthorn-like fruits, which are very decorative in winter.
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TREES AND SHRUBS
Styrax japonica is one of the snowdrop trees, and is ▼ery desirable. 8. Wilsoni is a smaller shrub, also worth having in the shrubbery.
Telopea truncata, the Tasmanian waratah, has evergreen foliage and terminal clusters of red flowers, not unlike the fire bush but not so intense in colouring. T. speciosissima, the New South Wales waratah, is a more decorative plant but not quite so hardy.
Viburnum.—These are particularly useful in the shrubbery; V. Opulus sterile, the Snow hall tree, being attractive when in flower and again in autumn when its foliage takes on beautiful tints. Small growing newer species are V. bitchuense and V. Carlesii, with fragrant bouvar-dia-like flowers; V. plicatum is a good flowering kind, and V. rhytidophyllum has distinct foliage and ornamental fruits.
Other good shrubs are Cantua dependent, Choisya ternata, Chorizema cordata, Cistus Silver pink, and C. Ladaniferus, Diosma ericoides, Lavandula vera, and Felicia angustifolia.
Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Heaths.
All the members of the Erica family do particularly well in New Zealand, and are a feature of most gardens except in the limestone and very dry districts.
The rhododendrons are the most deservedly popular and the most extensively planted of all hardy evergreen flowering shrubs. There are kinds which flower in midwinter and others which are still in flower at Christmas, and the glossy green evergreen foliage is interesting at all times.
Rhododendrons like a cool, moist, well-drained soil, free from lime or other alkaline substances, with abundance of organic matter to maintain a mild acidity. There are species which thrive on limestone soils where there is an excessive rainfall, but they will not tolerate free lime.
As they are surface rooters it is not necessary to trench deeply, though trenching is advisable, and when they are planted in holes on a bank or in grass, drainage has to be provided to allow excessive moisture to run off.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
When preparing ground quantities of well-rotted farmyard manure and leaf mould can be added, but manure must not come into direct contact with the roots of newlyplanted shrubs.
It is very important to pay attention to the surface soil, never to dig deeply near the roots, to keep it weeded and free from grass, and to apply annual mulches of wellrotted cow manure mixed with an equal quantity of leaf mould or compost heap, rough leaf mould, chopped up peat, or lawn mowings—anything which will rot and keep the roots cool and moist.
Light overhead shade such as provided by native fuchsias, scarlet oaks, flowering cherries and crab apples is an advantage in the summer, and also to break late frosts, which might damage the buds of tender kinds or the flowers of the early varieties.
As rhododendrons and azaleas have such a compact root system they can be transplanted with safety when quite large, and are therefore excellent for providing an established effect in a new garden.
When planting new beds and borders of rhododendrons it is an advantage to plant thickly at first and to transplant the surplus plants before they become overcrowded. When planting, remember not to plant too deeply, and to tramp or ram the soil as firm as that about the original ball of roots.
About seventy years ago Sir Joseph Hooker discovered and introduced many fine species of rhododendrons from the Himalayas, and several of these being too tender for most parts of England, were crossed with the hardy kinds to produce those large-flowered hybrids such as Pink Pearl, which have done so much to popularise rhododendrons. Plant breeders also crossed several of the Himalayan species, mainly Aucklandii, Thomsoni, Fortunei, and arboreum, and produced a race of beautiful hybrids, all of which are quite hardy in most New Zealand gardens. They also introduced many variations in the original species, such as occur in arboreum, which can now be had with flowers from the purest white through various shades of pink to deepest crimson.
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160
In more recent times Messrs. Kingdon Ward, Forest, Wilson, Rock, etc., have explored other regions in China and Asia and introduced species showing great variation in method of growth, size of foliage, and colour and size of the flowers. Hybridists have been at work on these new species, and now there are not only quantities of introductions from the wilds reaching the flowering stage, but there are quantities of hybrids with great potentialities coming on. It may take anything up to twenty years for a hybrid or species to flower from seed, though many reach that stage in five or six years.
Original species worth growing are arhoreum, barbatum, Thomsoni, Griersonianum, Fortunei, Roylei, Maddenii, Falconeri, Sino-grande, camplyocarpwm, Kingianum, Aucklandii, obiculare, campanulatum.
Himalayan hybrids are Marquis of Lothian, Countess of Haddington, Gill’s Triumph, Shilsoni, Luscombei, Loderi, Cornubia, Kewense, etc.
Hardy hybrids which will grow well anywhere are Alice, Pink Pearl, White Pearl, Mrs. Thistleton Dyer, Britannia, Gomer Waterer, Charles Lawson, Flag of Truce, Doncaster, Anthony Waterer, Fastuosum flore-pleno, August van Geert, etc.
Rhododendrons are suitable for all gardens, for they range in height from a few inches to small trees with handsome leaves. The smaller and dwarf kinds are very suitable for grouping in large rock gardens, or for small cottage gardens, where several species can be accommodated in one bed. These are racemosum, ciliatum, fastigiatum, fragrantissimum, Roylei, impeditum, Sfinithii aureum, etc.
Evergreen Azaleas.—These are considered to be rather tender for southern gardens, but though they do not make such rapid growth as in the north they remain quite healthy and flower freely. They are very suitable for rock gardens, beds, and borders, and produce a wonderful effect when in flower.
Deciduous Azaleas.—These are by far the most suitable for small gardens. They do not grow quickly, but they flower freely, and will stand more drought and sunshine
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161
than the evergreen kinds. They also provide two displays, the first in early summer when they are in flower, and the second in the autumn when they put on their delightful autumn tints.
They are very accommodating, and can be grown in borders or beds by themselves or associated with some other suitable plants, or they can be planted in mixed borders of shrubs or herbaceous plants.
They like similar treatment to rhododendrons, and are effective when carpeted with primrose polyanthus, and small spring-flowering bulbs, and thinly overshadowed by Magnolias, Laburnums, or Japanese maples. There are many different sections flowering at different times, but ordinary Ghent azaleas raised from a good strain are quite satisfactory, and much cheaper than the named varieties. Rhododendrons, azaleas, and heaths can he raised from layers, cuttings, or seeds, but for the small garden layering is the most suitable method of propagation and the easiest to carry out.
Ericas (Heaths) and Epacris.
Heaths, both the South African kinds and the European, grow quite well in most New Zealand gardens, and as many flower in winter and early spring they have a special value.
The conditions already described for rhododendrons are suitable for all heaths, and though peat is an advantage it is not essential. Shelter from cold south-west winds is necessary for the Cape kinds, but not so important for the European types which are quite accustomed to cold and exposure. A light overhead shade such as provided by Japanese maples, Embothrium coccineum, is also an advantage.
Like all Ericaceae they cannot stand droughts, and must be mulched and watered during dry weather. They show no signs of distress until it is too late, so their requirements have to be anticipated.
Bush kinds are E. melanthera, E. Cavendishiana, E. Bowieana, E. cruenta, E. gracilis, E. grandinosa, E. mammosa, E. WUmoreana, E. Webbiana, and E. vernix cocdnea.
THE BAMBOO GARDEN
162
The hardier and more easy to accommodate are E. carnea, E. einerea, E. tetralix, E. mediterranea, E. vagans, and Calluna vulgaris (Scotch heather). Its white and double varieties are worthy of extensive planting as edgings for rhododendron borders or in beds and borders by themselves.
Bpacris, sometimes called the Australian heath, and such peat-loving plants as Vacciniums, Kalmias, and Pieris are a useful association for heaths. The heath garden also provides excellent conditions for lilies and the small spring-flowering bulbs.
THE BAMBOO GARDEN.
There are now a great many of the hardy bamboos which are not only valuable for providing tropical effects and shelter but for providing quantities of very suitable flower stakes. The best effects are obtained when they are associated with palms, cabbage trees, pampas grasses, yuccas, and kniphofias, and planted beside a pond or stream. They also make excellent shelter for more tender plants.
They will thrive in well-cultivated richly manured soil, and appreciate dressings of well-rotted manure in spring and an abundance of water at all times. They can be propagated by division or seed, but most of the species have the peculiar characteristic of dying after producing seed.
They can be divided up and transplanted at any time except winter, spring and early summer being the best.
Arundinaria falcata
Phyllostacbys aurea
„ Falconeri
„ Castillonis
„ japonica
„ flexuosa
Bambusa nana
„ heterocyola
„ quadrangularis
„ Marliacea
„ fastnosa
~ mitis
„ palmata
„ Quilioi
„ tessellata
„ viridi-
„ vittata argentea
glaucescens
Bambusa verticillata
„ nigra
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Plants to Associate with Bamboos.
Aralia spinosa
Kniphofia Tysoni „
„ japonica
„ aloides
„ papyrieaea
Lilium giganteum
Arundo Donax
Musa ensete
„ „ variegata
„ japonica Phoenix canariensis
„ humulis
Cordyline australis
Phormium tenax
„ indivisa
Trachycarpus Fortune!
„ Banksii
Yucca filimentosa
Eulalia zebrina
„ gloriosa
Gynerium argenteum
(Pampas Grass)
CLIMBING PLANTS
Though rambler roses have now an almost complete monopoly of rustic fences, pergolas, and arches, which are so fashionable and attractive, they are not very suitable for growing on houses, walls, and close fences, where a free current of air cannot percolate through them. A comparatively plain house can be made quite attractive by covering it with climbing plants, and a pretty house made still more attractive.
Ivy, however, is not a suitable plant for clothing a house, or in fact for growing anywhere in the garden except under trees or for covering shady banks where nothing else will thrive.
The stronger growing climbers such as Ampelopsis hederacea and several of the clematis species are very suitable for growing up and through trees, and though I would not recommend clothing choice specimens in this way, they do little harm to sycamores and other vigorous growers.
The vine family provides us with many beautiful and vigorous climbers, the common fruiting vine in its many varieties being both ornamental and useful, for grapes will ripen quite well even in the far south when grown against a sunny wall or over a verandah. The species and varieties of Yitis ( Ampelopsis) are specially useful for growing on brick or stone houses, for they will cling on by
Ronmeya coulteri. Californian Tree Poppy.
[s]
Narcissus.
Border Carnation.
Sweet Pea.
Diosma ericoides.
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166
means of special tendrils, and thereby save nailing or wiring. A. Veitchii and its variety purpurea is a dinger, and while it keeps the house cool during the summer and covers it with bright colour in the autumn, it admits sun during the winter when heat is appreciated. A. hederacea, “the Virginian creeper,” is more suitable for growing up through trees and over pergolas.
The tripod system of training climbers.
In addition to the fruiting vine, there are several strong growers with ornamental foliage and autumn tints. Vitis Coignetiae, the Japanese vine, has large leaves often nine inches across, of a rich green above and a curious buff underneath. In autumn the leaves, which turn from various shades of orange-yellow to crimson, are very ornamental, and very suitable for covering old buildings, verandahs, etc.
Other vines are V. armatu, V. purpurea, V. Henryana, V. Thomsonii and V. Thuribergii.
The clematis are a most valuable family of climbers, with both large and small flowers, suitable for growing against walls, on fences, and up through trees. The small-flowered K
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
kinds such as C. Montana and its variety rubens, are specially suitable for growing up through trees, and as they flower on old wood in the spring, they should not he pruned until after flowering, that is, if pruning is necessary. The large-flowered kinds, such as the Jackmani and lanuginosa types are better when cut back almost to the ground every year to encourage the development of young wood, on which they flower. Strong growers are C. Montana and its variety rubens, C. virginiana, C. Vitalba, C. indivisa, C. hexasepala and C. foetida. The last three are New Zealand species and evergreens.
The wistarias are also excellent climbers for covering wooden houses and verandahs, and when once established and occupying the space allotted to them, young growths should he spurred back every winter. Wistaria sinensis
Layering wistaria.
has purplish-lilac flowers, and W. multijuga has longer racemes but does not flower so freely.
Tropaeolum speciosum, flame flower or Scotch creeper, is a feature in the north of Scotland, where it is trained against the houses. It likes to grow with its roots in the shade and its head in the sun, and in addition to being suitable for a north wall, it can be grown in a shrubbery where it can partly clothe the least desirable species.
Geraniums also make excellent climbers for covering dry sunny walls. They have to be provided with wire or some form of trellis support, but will eventually grow to a second storey window. Both the scarlet Soldier’s Tunic and the pink ivy-leaved Mdme. Crousse are suitable.
Other climbers are:—
Lathyrus pubescens „
Akebia quinata
Berberidopsis eorallina
„ splendens
Bignonia grandiflora
Lonieera Periclymenum
Cobaea scandens
Mandevilla suaveolens
Eccremoearpus scaber
Polygonum baldschuanicum
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168
For warm situations:—
Bougainvillea varieties
Passiflora edulis
Lapageria rosea „
„ Constance Elliot
„ albiflora
Plumbago capensis
NATIVE PLANTS.
The native plants, which are so distinctive and peculiar a feature of the Dominion, have received such increased attention during recent years that a native section is now an accepted as well as an interesting feature of most large gardens. i
For town gardens, except for use as shelter belts or for planting in very exposed situations, the native plants are most suitable. Many of them do not require the same amount of space to develop in as do many of the exotics, nor do their roots impoverish the soil of one’s own or adjoining gardens as do the roots of the latter, nor do they fill the spouting with leaves and needles as do many of the exotic deciduous trees and pines.
The increased popularity of native plants is to some extent due to the introduction of the new brightly-coloured varieties of the manuka. It now remains for some horticulturist to do as much for the Olearias, Senecios, and Veronicas.
Now that many species are brought together in gardens, natural hybrids are appearing, and in this way nature is carrying out many experiments in cross fertilisation which were impossible before on account of the isolation of the plants in their various scattered natural habitats, often separated by miles of mountain ranges.
Fortunately, horticulturists are now coming to understand much better than they did a few years ago, the requirements of the beautiful New Zealand alpines as represented by the genus Celmisia and by the genus Ranunculus, particularly the species B. Lyallii, which is the finest buttercup in existence. At one time it was considered that as these were alpine plants, it was necessary to provide a rock garden on which to grow them. Experience has proved however, that they can be grown much more satisfactorily on well-drained, raised borders with a moist sub-
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
soil. These conditions should not be beyond the ingenuity and resources of any gardener.
It has also been found that the New Zealand alpine plants do much better when raised from seed than do those plants that have been collected and transplanted from their natural environment on the mountain sides. To ensure successful germination, the seed should be sown when it is quite fresh and not kept for any length of time.
During recent years, New Zealand plants have been extensively cultivated in Great Britain, especially at seaside resorts, where many such plants that were at one time considered tender, are now growing in the open in healthy condition.
Each year recently consignments of New Zealand seeds and plants have been sent from New Zealand to European gardeners, whose reports on the welfare of the plants have been most encouraging.
Native plants may be divided into four sections—--1) Trees; (2) Shrubs; (3) Alpines; (4) Perns.
In most districts, especially in the North Island, the forest—or as it is commonly called, the “hush”—is of a mixed nature or of a three-fold character. There is first an overgrowth of large trees, followed by an undergrowth
of lesser trees, shrubs and climbers, with a carpeting of ferns of various sizes and mosses. There are exceptions to this rule, and in the far north one finds almost pure growths of the great kauri tree (Agathis australis), while in the south one finds pure or almost pure stands of the various species of beech (Nothofagus).
Isolated individual specimens of trees are not common, but where the natural conditions and environment have given them a chance to develop, they do occur—shapely round-headed specimens of totaras, knightias, and beech, giving that park-like effect to the landscape which is so characteristic of the English countryside.
Alectryon excelsum (Titoki).- —A tall-growing tree with brilliant red berries with black “eyes.” It occurs in the South Island, but is more common in the North Island.
Cordyline australis (Cabbage tree). —The best representative of tropical vegetation we have in New Zealand.
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When it is freely planted, it forms a striking feature in the landscape. It eventually develops into a manybranohed tree which, when in full flower, is both beautiful and fragrant. Unfortunately, owing to its bad habit of dropping its leaves at all times, it is an untidy subject when grown as a lawn specimen. C. indivisa is even more tropical-looking than C. australis, its leaves being longer and broader. C. Banksii has ornamental flowers and slender stems. All the cabbage trees will thrive in moist conditions, and when they are grouped with flax and toe-toe beside a pond or stream, they provide a distinct landscape effect.
Dacrydium cupressinum (red pine).—ln its juvenile stage this is the most beautiful of all native trees. Given a sheltered position a well-grown specimen will develop with long slender weeping branches, which give the tree a most graceful appearance. When it reaches maturity, the tree is not so ornamental, but it takes many years, almost a lifetime, to throw off the pendulous form.
Fuchsia excorticata (native fuchsia).- —An interesting tree in that it is one of the few native deciduous species, and the only one with any pretensions to autumn tints. The cinnamon-red papery bark gives the tree a most distinctive appearance in winter, especially when it is surrounded by an undergrowth of evergreens.
Griselina lucida and G. littoralis (broadleaf). —These are found in the bush as gnarled, picturesque trees usually clothed with ferns and other epiphytes, but when cultivated in gardens they usually persist as branching shrubs clothed with dense shining green leathery leaves.
Kauri (Agathis australis)- —This is the king of the New Zealand pines, and is an interesting tree at any time. It is much more hardy than many people imagine it to be. Compared with other native trees, it is not a slow grower. It certainly likes shelter from cold south-west winds, but otherwise should be planted in an open situation, where its symmetrical growth can he fully admired.
Knightia, excelsa.—ln the North Island, where it is known by the Maori name of Rewarewa, this tree will grow
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into a shapely specimen where it has room to develop. It can be grown in the South Island in favourable situations.
Libocedrus doniana. —An ornamental member of the cypress family with an upright pyramidal growth not unlike the Italian cypress in appearance. L. Bidwillii is really a shrub having two distinct forms of foliage, one during the juvenile period and the other when it reaches the adult form.
Meryta Sinclairii (puka).—A very striking small tree with large evergreen leaves. It makes a good lawn specimen in the north, but is tender in the south.
Ngaio (Myoporum laetum). —A small round-headed tree with glossy evergreen peculiarly pitted leaves. This is a particularly useful tree for seaside planting, as it will stand up to the full blast of the wind and will grow in pure sand. It is easily raised from seed, but as it does not transplant readily, the seedlings should be grown in pots prior to being planted out into their permanent situations.
Nothofagns —The beeches of New Zealand are very ornamental, and although they are true evergreens, the foliage of one species, Nothofagus fusca (red beech), does colour up to some extent in winter and in spring. Its leaves are larger than those of the other species, it is the fastest grower of the genus, produces the best timber, and is not a difficult tree to transplant. Young trees can be collected in the forest at any time, and if these plants are lined out in well-cultivated soil in a semi-shaded place for a year, they may then be planted out in the open quite successfully. Other kinds worth growing are N. Blairii, N. Solandri, N. apiculata, and N. Menziesii.
Olearia Forsteri and 0. Traversii. —Useful small trees for planting for shelter in seaside gardens. They can also be grown as hedges and will grow in pure sand.
Phyllocladus trichomanoides (celery top pine).—A very handsome evergreen tree not unlike the maiden-hair tree on a small scale. It develops into a shapely specimen suitable for the lawn or shrubbery. P. alpinus is a shrubby form growing to a height of four feet.
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Pittosporums.—These are an interesting family of small evergreen trees useful for forming shelters and ornamental plantations, but their use as hedge plants is not recommended. P. eugenioides is the most ornamental of the family, having shiny light green leaves with wavy margins and an abundance of light yellow scented flowers. Other members of the family are P. Ralphii, P. crassifolium, P. tenuifolium, and P. Buchanani, all of which are easily raised from seed.
Podocarpus ferrugineus (black pine), and Podocarpus dacrydioides (white pine) are not ornamental as young trees, but they are interesting specimens nevertheless.
Pseudopanax ferox and P. crassifolia (Lanoewood). — Distinctive looking small trees suitable for small gardens. In their infant stages they have thin upright stems with long, straight, stiff, pendulous leaves. When they reach the adult stage they branch out into rounded formal headed trees with much shorter and wider foliage.
Eatas, the Christmas Tree, or Pohutukawa.— Metrosideros tomentosa is a shapely tree with grey coloured evergreen foliage and bright crimson flowers bearing numerous stamens having conspicuous orange anthers. This tree thrives by the seaside, and is therefore most desirable for seaside planting.
M. lucida, the southern rata, is also a shapely tree with glossy foliage. It is smaller than the Pohutukawa, but has darker green foliage and equally bright flowers, having black anthers. When fully grown in its natural habitat this tree has a clear stem or trunk, but in gardens it retains the shrubby form, the branches being clothed with foliage from the ground upwards. There are other species, one with yellow flowers, but the two described are the best.
Ribbonwoods. —Quick growing trees that are suitable for use in shelter belts and for withstanding sea air. (a) Hoheria populnea, in its many forms has handsome dark-green foliage and produces white flowers, which in some varieties are freely produced in autumn and in others during the early winter.
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(6) Gaya Lyalli. —This tree and its variety are both particularly ornamental, and are among the few native deciduous trees. About Christmas time they bear quantities of white cherry-like flowers. They are not long-lived trees, however, but may be easily raised from cuttings or seeds.
Sophora tetraptera (kowhai). —A very beautiful small shapely tree with feathery foliage and golden yellow flowers, which are produced in abundance in the early spring. When it is young it has a peculiar interlaced twiggy appearance with sparse foliage, but when it reaches the adult stage its growth is more upright and its foliage also is larger and more pronounced. In some cases it sheds its leaves when it is coming into flower.
The Totaras, Podocarpus Totara, P. Itallii, P. alpina, P. spicata, make an interesting group in the shrubbery. P. Hallii and P. totara are both fairly fast growing trees, making neat shapely lawn specimens, suitable for the small town garden.
Native Shrubs
A remarkable fact concerning the native shrubs is that two of the largest genera in New Zealand are represented in the northern hemisphere by small weeds and herbaceous plants. Veronicas are represented there by the little speedwells, and the daisy shrubs (Seneeios) by ragwort and groundsel.
Brachyglottis rangiora and B. repanda.—Both the “Kangioras” are handsome foliaged plants, having large leaves which are green on the upper surface and white on the lower. The purple variety, the leaves of which are deep purple on the upper surface and white on the lower, is most effective as a foliage shrub.
Cannichaelias, Notospartiums, and CorallospartinnM (native brooms). —These are remarkable looking plants usually without leaves, and bearing quantities of white or pink pea-shaped flowers. N. Carpiichaeliae has pendant slender leafless branches bearing quantities of pink flowers in summer. It is the best of this group, and very suitable for planting on dry banks and in large rock gardens.
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Clianthus puniceus (kaka beak). —A very showy plant which is most effective when it is trained over a low trellis or planted where it will trail over a bank. In addition to the bright red-flowered type, there is a pink and also a cream-flowered variety. Old plants are liable to be attacked by a disease. Affected plants are better destroyed and replaced with young ones, which are easily raised from seed.
Coprosmas.—A large and very variable family. Some bear ornamental berries and other have attractive glossy green foliage. They are all very suitable for seaside planting. C. Baueri is good for covering a bank, and C. lucida makes a good hedge.
Dracophyllums (Grass trees). —Distinct and interesting shrubs having grass-like foliage and bearing clusters of heath-like flowers. Many of the species, because of their peculiar foliage and distinct appearance, are worthy of a place in the shrubbery.
Leptospennums (Manuka). —Both the coloured and the white-flowered types are good garden plants, but as the white variety is so common everywhere, it is seldom planted in gardens. L. Chapniani, the pink manuka, was discovered by Sir Frederick Chapman near Dunedin. It has been superseded as a garden plant by the dark crimson variety, L. Nichollsii, and the various seedlings which have been raised from it. Seedlings are quite easy to raise, and though a large proportion of them will be the common white and poor pink varieties, there are usually a number of good kinds. The coloured flowered manukas should be more extensively planted than they are, for they will thrive on any poor land, and are suitable for planting as shelter belts, as hedges, and in groups in the shrubbery. There are also double white varieties, and a dwarf pigmy kind, which is suitable for planting in rock gardens.
Olearias.—The daisy shrubs are attractive for their varied shapes, sizes, colours of foliage, and for their beautiful flowers. Most of them are white or yellow, but those from the southern islands have shades of lavender rosy petals with distinct lavender disc florets. Oleari/i macrodonta, 0. Haastii, and O. ilicifolia are all good sped-
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mens when they are in full flower, but the most desirable ones are 0. Chathamica, 0. semidentata, 0. angustifolia, and a dwarf species known as 0. Dendyii, the best of the coloured varieties being 0. Dendyii and 0. semidentata. The most remarkable kinds for their foliage are 0. lacunosa, 0. Lyallii, and 0. Trailii.
Pachystegia grandiflora ( Olearia insignis). —This is a remarkable plant with thick leathery leaves and large white daisy-like flowers, which are borne on thick fleshy stems. It grows naturally on limestone cliffs, and is a suitable subject for planting on a dry sunny position.
Panax. —lncluded in this genus are a number of small trees or shrubs which are closely allied to the Aralias. P. Colensoi and P. arboreum are two of the best species, growing into large shrubs or small round-headed trees from ten to twenty feet high, with bold, digitate deep green foliage.
The native flax (Phormium tenax) is a distinctive plant suitable for planting beside streams or ponds, grouping in the shrubbery, or setting out as lawn specimens. There are very many varieties, some as beautifully marked and variegated as a tropical dracaena is, others have bronze foliage, and some are drooping and some upright. We have about fifty distinct kinds which when associated with the various cordylines, make a tropical looking group. P. Cookianum is suitable for planting on hanks. Plants may he increased from seed or by dividing the old plants.
Senecios. —Some of these are more spreading in habit and are therefore more suitable for covering steep banks than are the Olearias. Even when they are not in flower, they are made attractive by their grey foliage, and when the golden daisy-like flowers are in bloom, the combination of colours in foliage and flower is most effective. The best yellow-flowered spreaders are S. Crustii, S. Greyii, S. compactus, and S. laxifolius. S. Hectori is the most distinct species, having large rough leaves and margueritelike flowers borne in enormous panicles. S. perdicioides has somewhat inconspicuous flowers, but it has ornamental light green scented foliage, the perfume from which is
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given off quite strongly in the evenings. S. eloeagnifolius, 8. Buchanani, and 8. rotundifolius are also worth growing for their foliage.
Veronicas.—A very variable family, some members being almost trees with quite large leaves, while others are diminutive shrubs like V. Bidmllii, which grows only a few inches high. Their foliage and form of growth also vary considerably from the whipcord kinds which are dwarf shrubs with scaly leaves closely pressed together, to V. Dieffenbachii, V. salicifolia, and V. macroura, which grow into almost small trees with large leaves several inches in length. The colours of the ornamental flowers, which are freely produced, are mainly white, blue, or purple.
There are numerous forms of the broad-leaved section which are well worth growing for their flowers, the best being V. speciosa, V. Andersoni, and its variegated form, and V. Lewisii. All stand cutting, and are very suitable for clothing steep banks. The whipcord section is especially useful for grouping in the rock garden to provide the tree effect which is often desired, and which is usually obtained by planting dwarf pines and junipers. The spreading kinds represented by V. catarractae, V. Lyallii, V. Olseni, and V. Bidmllii, are also suitable for rock gardens, banks, and dry walls. Other flowering dwarf shrubs are V. Haastii, V. glauco-coerulea, V. cupressoides, and V. Barnettii. The largest flowering species is V. macrantha, and V. Benthami from the Chatham Islands is the best blue-flowered species. Some, such as V. elliptica, are splendid subjects for seaside planting, as they will stand up to the most severe winds. This species is also recommended for seaside hedge planting.
Veronicas are not long-lived plants, but as they are easy to raise from cuttings, it is better to put in a few every year, and to have a stock of young plants on hand to replace those that die out.
Other garden shrubs of merit are Myrtus ob cor data, M. Balphii, Corynocarpus laevigata (karaka), Corokia huddleoides, C.Cotoneaster, and Melicytus lanceolatws.
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In addition to the green-leaved forms of the native plants, there are numbers with variegated and coloured foliage. These are suitable for grouping to secure winter effects and include variegated forms of Coprosma Baueri, C. grandifolia; Pittosporum eugenioides and P. tenuifolium; Senecio rotundifolius; broadleaf, ribbonwood, flax, cabbage tree, Veronica Andersoni, V. Donaldi. Dark or red leaved kinds are Brachy glottis, Flax, cabbage trees both Australis and Banksii, Fuchsias, and myrtles.
ALPINES AND HERBACEOUS PLANTS
One has to climb up above the bush line into the subalpine meadows to get among the native wild flowers, but there they are in abundance—celmisias in open meadows, seneeios in moist rocky places, mountain lilies beside streams and on the shady sides of the mountain ridges, and special plants on screes and hollows under melting snow. Most of these plants take kindly to conditions at lower levels provided they are suitable. They thrive on a moist and semi-shaded rock garden, but are easier to manage on well-drained borders elevated about a foot above the surrounding gardens. Where the subsoil is clay it is advisable to put in a layer of clinkers or ashes to allow a rapid run-off during wet weather but to retain moisture to which the roots will have access when the weather is dry.
The soil has also to be opened up a bit by the addition of shingle or lime rubble, and an annual top-dressing of shingle or charcoal will be beneficial. It is also advisable to sink a few upright rocks in the soil for the benefit of plants which like shade. Some of the ourisias and also some of the buttercups like shade provided in this way.
Fortunately it is possible to transplant alpines from their native haunts during the summer and early autumn, provided reasonable care is taken to avoid damage to the roots. A small pick or a stout butcher’s knife is the best tool for lifting, and as it is not necessary to bring away chunks of the mountain the soil can be shaken out and the plants wrapped in a little damp moss and pieces of newspaper. As they have usually to be carried long distances over rough tracks it is important to reduce the
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weight of the load as much as possible. When brought down to the lower levels they should be heeled in a bed of sand or light moist soil and shaded with a piece of scrim or some twiggy branches. They can be transplanted to their permanent positions in the rock garden in the autumn.
Raising native alpines from seed is also interesting. Fresh seed should be collected and sown at once on a specially prepared bed made up as follows. First excavate the soil to a depth of a foot, put in six inches of clinkers and over these some rough turfy soil. Next put in six inches of light soil composed of 4 parts clean loam, 1 part leaf mould and 1 part sand. Make firm and level, and fix up a framework over which scrim can be stretched. Sow the seed fairly thick, for there are usually a lot of immature ones, firm and just cover with fine soil; water, and fix the scrim shade overhead. Germination may take place right away or it may be delayed until the following spring. If the seedlings come up too thickly they can be thinned out, but the selected ones can be left in the seed bed until the following autumn when they can be transplanted to their permanent positions. In this way Celmisias and Ranunculus Lyallii can be grown quite easily.
Celmisias.—This is a most interesting and decorative genus. The species vary from little plants with thin grasslike leaves only an inch long to C. Hookeri and C. coriacea with leaves over a foot in length and several inches wide. The flowers also vary from the little stalkless C. densiflora to C. coriacea or C. holosericea, three inches across. They are not so impatient of disturbance as many people think, and can be lifted and divided up in the autumn. This is necessary because the spreading kinds are liable to grow up out of the ground and perish during dry weather.
The best of the dwarf kinds are C. sessiliflora, C. argentea and C. Hectori.
The spreading kinds are C. holosericea, C. Lindsayi, C. prorepens, C. Dallii.
The rosette kinds are C. coriacea, C. Hookeri, C. spectdbilis and C. Traversii.
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The Mountain Lily. —Ranunculus Lyallii, which is really a buttercup, is now becoming a good garden plant, and thriving in conditions which would have been considered impossible a few years ago. Seedlings flower in the second or third year and continue to bloom satisfactorily for about two years when they should be replaced with young plants. They and most of the buttercups like a little shade from the midday sun. Other good kinds are R. insignis, R. lobulatus and R. Godleyanus. The last named has yellow blooms.
Perns. —New Zealand is noted for its ferns, which are both varied and beautiful. Some can withstand open sunny dry conditions, but most of them like abundance of moisture and a semi-shaded position. There are various types of ferneries, one being what is called a bush house with slotted roof to provide subdued light. In such a house a large collection of native ferns can be grown, but a building with a glass roof is much more satisfactory. The walls should be brick or rockwork, which will keep out hot, drying winds, for though ventilation is necessary it is essential that excessive drying should be avoided. Another type of fernery which is very satisfactory is the underground type as adopted in the New Plymouth gardens. Here the soil is porous and moist and ferns grow naturally in it.
In building up the beds and forming the pockets, porous rocks and hroadleaf logs are the most satisfactory. Both provide suitable conditions for the delicate filmies; and the tree-ferns which form the overgrowth and the stronger kinds which form the undergrowth can be planted in the beds and pockets in light soil rich in organic matter. An artificial fernery should imitate nature, and there are plenty of natural gullies in the bush which can be reproduced.
Native ferns can also be grown in pots, pans or pieces of log with the hark on, and in this way they can be accomodated under the stage in the ordinary greenhouse. While the planted out fernery is the least trouble and the most artistic, the pot grown specimens are more useful for the exhibitor and also for arranging with groups of flowering plants. (For list of native ferns, see page 303.)
POTTING SOILS
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POTTING SOILS.
The basis of all potting soils is turfy loam, and this is usually obtained by stripping the turf to a depth of from four to six inches from a well-drained old pasture. It is also possible to get very good potting turf from the roadsides, but ordinary garden soil without fibre, no matter how rich it may be, is not suitable. The turf is stacked in a heap with the grass downwards for about six months before it is ready for use. Sterilised soil is now considered so much superior for all purposes, that wherever possible some simple apparatus for carrying this out should be erected. For large quantities a suitable container through
An easy way to sterilise soil. Build a fire in an oil drum and put the soil in a metal tray on top.
which steam at 40 lb. pressure can be forced for about twenty minutes will be suitable, and for small quantities an oil drum with a false bottom about three inches above the real one, will do. Put about three inches of water in the bottom, fill up with chopped soil, stand on a fire and boil until the water is all evaporated. Another method which is fairly satisfactory is to pour boiling water over the soil placed in a suitable container. The objects of sterilisation are to destroy all insect and animal life, all seeds and roots of perennial weeds, and to encourage the growth of soil micro-organisms such as bacteria, fungi, algae, protozoa, etc., which increase soil fertility.
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After sterilisation spread the soil out to allow surplus water to evaporate, otherwise it becomes wet and sticky.
The other necessary ingredients of a soil mixture are leaf mould, clean sharp sand, lime rubble, wood ashes, charcoal, bone meal, and well-rotted dry manure.
These should all be collected during the autumn and stored in a shed during the winter so that they may be available for use at any time.
Stack of turfy loam for use in potting. Sometimes it may be necessary to sift the loam before use.
Some Soil Mixtures.
For Potting.—A good stock mixture for potting can be made up as follows:-—Chopped (not sifted) turfy loam 3 parts, leaf mould 1 part, well-rotted manure half a part, sand and lime rubble half a part of each; bone meal, wood ashes, and crushed charcoal, a six-inch potful of each to every barrowload of the soil mixture. This can be modified to suit special requirements. For example, for quick growing plants such as Cinerarias, more rotted manure can be added, for hardwood plants such as Ericas peat can be substituted, and for slow-growing kinds such as palms manure can be omitted.
After sterilisation the old potting soil can be used over again for mixing with a proportion of new loam in pricking out, and as seed sowing soil.
Kelway's Tree Paeonies. Pa?onia Moutan.
Azalea indica.
Erica wilmoreana.
Rhododendron fragrantissimum.
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For Seed Sowing.—New turfy loam 2 parts, sterilised old potting soil 2 parts, leaf mould one part, sand half a part. Pass this mixture through a half-inch sieve, and a smaller quantity through a very fine sieve for topping the pots or boxes and for covering the seed.
For Pricking Out. —New turfy loam 2 parts, sterilised old potting soil 2 parts, well-rotted manure 1 part, leaf mould 1 part; bone meal and wood ashes, a six-inch potful of each to a barrowload of the soil mixture. Pass through a J-inch sieve, and a smaller quantity through a i-inch sieve for topping.
Soil for Cuttings.—Loam 1 part, leaf mould 1 part, and sand 1 part. Pass through a f-inch sieve.
Winter protection for pot plants or cuttings.
THE GREENHOUSE.
It is said that he who loves a garden loves a greenhouse too; certainly some kind of glass structure in which seedlings can be raised and grown, and in which a collection of pot plants can be cultivated, is most useful, and extends the interest of a garden.
Probably the most useful greenhouse for an amateur is one in which seedlings can be brought on in spring, tomatoes grown during the summer and early autumn, and chrysanthemums, cinerarias, primulas, and cyclamens grown for the late autumn, winter, and early spring. Such a structure if fully utilised throughout the year, is both profitable and interesting. With many amateurs there is a tendency to turn the greenhouse into a combination of tool house, potting shed, and store room, with a
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few more or less dead plants to give it a semblance of its true character.
In conjunction with the greenhouse a few cold frames will be found useful, for in these the bedding plants can be hardened off and the winter flowering kinds grown on during the summer.
The size and shape of the house will depend on its surroundings—if a wall is available a lean-to or threequarter span-roofed house is the best, and if situated in the open a span-roofed structure is to be preferred.
Section of best type of greenhouse ventilator which runs the whole length of the greenhouse roof.
Whatever the shape may be, however, it should not be built unnecessarily high. The benches inside, while raising the plants up to the light, should be kept conveniently low, for too often the flower pots and not the plants they contain are in the direct line of vision. The materials used in construction should be of as permanent a nature as possible. Thus walls should be of concrete, woodwork of jarrah, astragals of T-iron, while 21 oz. glass, copper spouting, and lead ridging should be used. Cheaper structures will last for years if they are kept well painted.
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Whatever the design may be, one essential feature which is often almost entirely neglected is the provision of sufficient ventilators. These should be below the staging to admit cool air, and along the ridge to allow hot air to escape, for it is every bit as important to keep down the temperature during hot weather as it is to keep it up during cold.
Heating.—Heating by means of hot water is the most reliable, and there are many types of boilers and pipes on the market at reasonable prices. It is important to have plenty of pipes and a large enough boiler to keep up the necessary temperature during cold weather. Recently, heating by means of electricity has been adopted, and has much to recommend it, as it is clean and requires no attention, the maximum and minimum temperatures being controlled by a thermostat, and the current by clockwork. Most power boards can supply power at a very low rate during the night when it is mostly required, and I myself have tested the efficiency of the method.
In unheated houses a sudden sharp frost can be kept out by means of an electric or kerosene heater, assisted by blinds which can be run down over the glass.
Shading of some kind is necessary, and this can be provided by painting the glass with very thin white paint in summer and stippling it with a half-worn brush; by the autumn it will be wearing thin, and by winter it can be removed altogether. Roller blinds are also satisfactory, as they can be used to keep out frost as well as to provide shade from sun.
It is unnecessary to deal here with all the plants that may be accommodated in a greenhouse; the cultivation of the principal ones which will provide a display all the year round is described.
Tuberous-rooted Begonias.—These are by far the most satisfactory plants for furnishing the greenhouse from the beginning of the new year until the chrysanthemums have to be housed. There are numbers of different types. The double kinds, although the most expensive, are the most popular, though the single frilled, single crested, and plain single varieties are also much admired. Novelties are
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expensive, but quite good tubers can be obtained at a reasonable price, and good varieties may be raised from seed, if the greenhouse is heated.
In spring the tubers are packed fairly close together in boxes of light soil, and when growth is active the plants are potted up in 4 or 5 inch pots according to the size of the tubers. When the plants have grown so that their roots reach the sides of the pots, but before they have
Eaising begonias from seeds and tubers. 1. Sowing seeds. 2. Seedlings under glass. 3. Tubers in spring. 4. Seedlings ready for planting out.
become pot-bound, they are moved into 7, 8, or 9 inch pots. Over-potting is to be carefully avoided. Potting should be fairly firm, a buoyant moist atmosphere should be maintained, and the first flower buds should be removed until the plants have become well established.
Potting soil should be mixed in the following proportions: —3 parts loam, £ part well-rotted manure, 1 part leaf mould, sufficient coarse sand to keep the mixture open, and a 5 inch potful of each of hone meal, wood ashes, soot, and crushed charcoal to each barrowload of the soil mixture. (See pages 144-5.)
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When the plants reach the flowering stage, the stems should be staked out, the female and side blooms should be pinched off, and the remaining flowers supported in some way. The house should be well ventilated on every possible occasion to maintain a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees.
Basket Begonias are most effective for furnishing the roof. They are treated as for pot cultivation until it is time for the final potting, when they are placed in mosslined wire baskets, a similar soil mixture being used.
Test the condition of a flower pot as to moisture by tapping it with a stick or pencil.
To raise Begonias from seed, 5 or 6 inch pots are half filled with crocks over which some rough turf or moss is placed, and the pots are filled to within half an inch of the top with sifted soil, and are topped off with a quarter of an inch of very fine sifted soil, which is made firm and smooth. The pots of soil should be watered well, and left to drain over night. Sow the seed (which is very fine) evenly and thinly, and sprinkle with some sand. Cover the pots with a piece of glass, shade with a piece of paper, and stand them in the greenhouse in a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. It is essential that the soil should not be allowed to become dry, and if watering is necessary
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it should be done by placing the pots two-thirds of their depth in a bath of tepid water. Seedlings will appear in from 10 to 13 days, and as soon as they are large enough to handle they should be pricked out into boxes of light rich soil. Later, they should be lined out in a frame over a gentle hotbed, and by autumn they will all flower. The best forms can be marked for future pot cultivation, and the others utilised the following year for bedding purposes in the flower garden. The raising of seedling Begonias has been explained here in detail because the same methods are adopted for raising Gloxinias, Streptocarpus, Calceolarias, and other greenhouse plants. In autumn when the stems ripen off the tubers can be stored in their flowering pots or they can be shaken out and stored in boxes of light dry soil in a dry frost-proof shed.
Chrysanthemums.—After the Begonias are over chrysanthemums follow. The chrysanthemum is a perfectly hardy plant, and except when rooting from cuttings, and when in flower to protect the blooms from wet and frost, they are grown in the open air, and therefore do not tax the space required by other subjects in the greenhouse during the greater part of the year. Though some object to the large-flowered varieties, they have their admirers, and are always a feature of the shows. Decorative and single varieties are also very popular, and, while providing a good display in the greenhouse, they are certainly more useful for cutting than the larger-flowered kinds.
The cuttings, which are made from the young shoots which arise from the surface of the soil round the old flowering stem, are inserted round the inside of small pots, watered well, and stood on the greenhouse staging inside a frame on which a sheet of glass is fitted. They should be shaded from strong sun, and the atmosphere in the frame kept fairly close until rooting has taken place, after which the pots can be stood on a bed of ashes on the greenhouse stage to harden off. They are then potted up into three inch pots, and when the roots are well round the insides, they can be stood out in a cold frame, the sashes
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By kind permission of the publishers of “ The Garden" How to propagate chrysanthemums.
x—Old stool with suckers. 2, 3 and 4 —Unsuitable cuttings. s—Correct5 —Correct cutting. 6 and 7 —Pot prepared for receiving cuttings; note layer of sand and dibber hole in No. 7. B—Box8 —Box prepared for receiving cuttings. 9—Showing holes for drainage in bottom of box. 10—Cuttings inserted round edge of Sin. pot. 11—Cuttings inserted singly in 3in. pot. 15 and 16 —Rooted cuttings ready for potting on into larger sized pots. 12—Cuttings placed in frame in greenhouse. 13—The same stood on bench after rooting. 14—Plants brought up close to glass to prevent drawing.
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being closed in cold wet weather and opened when conditions are favourable.
In October, they are moved into five inch pots, and if specimen plants are desired the tops are pinched out. They are then put back in the frames, shaded and kept close for a few days, but gradually hardened off and fully exposed to all weather, except hail showers. By the end of October, unless the plants have formed a premature
Chrysanthemum plant: first stopping at A.
Taking chrysanthemum buds. 1. Crown bud. Small shoots B to be removed. 2. Crown bud developed after removal of shoots. 3. Terminal bud. Other small buds to be removed at C. 4. As bud increases in size feed with liquid manure.
bud and started to form side branches, called a break, the tips of the stems are pinched to cause branching, three shoots being allowed to develop.
In December they will be ready to pot on to their flowering receptacles—B to 10 inch pots or half petrol tins with plenty of holes for drainage. Pot firmly and for the time being stand the plants close together on planks or a bed of ashes in a sheltered sunny position. As soon as growth commences again, provide each stem with a good strong stake, and stand the pots at a reasonable distance apart on planks in their summer quarters, which should be sheltered from south-west winds, open and sunny, and
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well away from trees or shrubs. To prevent them from being blown over, tie at least one of the stakes to a wire stretched along the rows. Keep the young growths securely tied to the stakes at all times, and keep the pots regularly weeded and watered. Spray in the evenings on hot days, and keep a sharp look out for aphis, caterpillars, and other pests. The first buds will appear in February, and unless they are going to be too early for a show on a definite date, they should be allowed to develop, for they will provide the largest, though not the best coloured flowers. Decoratives and singles are not allowed to develop their first buds. These are either pinched out or allowed to pass, and three shoots from each stem taken up. In time these will form a cluster of terminal buds, which are thinned
Training cascade chrysanthemums.
out to three or five if sprays are desired, or to one flower only if larger specimens are the objective.
Feeding. —lt is better to give the plants some weak liquid manure after they have filled their receptacles with roots, than to use a very rich potting mixture in the first place. Give the liquid once a week at first, then twice or three times as the buds develop, ceasing altogether when they show colour. In addition to the liquid manure, which is never given when the soil is dry, water carefully throughout, dust the tips of the stems with tobacco powder for aphis, and spray with sulphide of potassium (1 oz. to 3 gallons of water) should mildew or rust appear. About the end of January, after removing weeds, and stirring the surface soil slightly, give a top dressing of good loam to which some Standen’s manure has been added, ramming it firmly, and leaving the surface smooth and level. This is to cover any exposed roots and to replace soil washed out during watering operations.
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Housing. —The house in which the chrysanthemums are to flower should be thoroughly cleaned, and all shading on the glass washed off. Wash the pots or clean the tins, lay the plants on their sides, and spray with sulphide of potassium to prevent mildew, and put under cover when the foliage is dry. The atmosphere of the house should be kept as dry as possible. Air in abundance should be given at all times, and fire heat provided only when the weather is wet or when there is danger of frost.
Hydrangeas.—During recent years hydrangeas have been improved in form, size, and colour, and a batch raised in pots provides a fine display in the greenhouse during November and December. They are also very suitable as house plants. To obtain plants in 5 or 6 inch pots, with one or more good heads, it is better to raise them from cuttings every year. These are taken from stock plants, which were selected from the flowering plants of the previous year. Young shoots about 3 inches long are taken with a heel and put into 3 inch pots (3 or 4 in each), watered, and plunged in bottom heat. They soon root, and are then potted up into 3 inch pots and placed in the cool greenhouse. As soon as these pots are full of roots, the plants are put into 5 inch pots, in which they will grow until the autumn. They are then plunged in a bed of ashes in the open and allowed to ripen off, each forming a good fat terminal bud. They are then put into a frame or the cool greenhouse during the winter, and as soon as growth commences in the spring they are shaken out and repotted into 6 inch pots, a good rich loam being used. Should blues be desired, it is necessary to mix blueing powder with the soil or to use soil which is known to produce blue varieties.
As growth proceeds, remove all side shoots, and when the buds appear give a little liquid manure once a week. After the plants have flowered select the ones to provide cuttings for next season, and line the rest out in the nursery or plant them outside. Some of the plants may be grown on to make standards for the second year, or they can be cut back to make specimen plants for tubs to stand on a wall or terrace.
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Pelargoniums and Geraniums.—These are still favourites and though they can be used for bedding out in the open they are very useful in the greenhouse after the hydrangeas and annuals are over, and before the tuberous begonias come in.
After flowering, the old plants are stood outside in an open sunny position to ripen the wood, and as soon as this is accomplished they are cut over and the young shoots put in as cuttings. When rooted, the cuttings are potted up first into 3 or 4 inch pots, and later on into 5 inch, in which they will flower. The old plants, which have started into growth, are shaken out in the autumn, the roots pruned
Geranium cuttings raised in a flower pot. Put sharp sand in the bottom of each hole.
slightly, and potted up in as small pots as convenient. In spring when growth is active they are potted on to their flowering pots, which will be 6, 7, or 8 inch sizes, according to the size of the plant. Pinch back any shoots which may grow away from the rest and so spoil the shape of the plant, and give a little liquid manure as the flower buds develop. They should be in flower in December and January.
Annuals.—ln recent years certain annuals have been used extensively for providing a display in the greenhouse in spring and early summer. These are Schizanthus, Godetias,
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Clarkias, Salpiglossis, Mignonette, etc. They can be sown in April or May in 6 inch pots, and the seedlings pricked out into boxes and afterwards potted up, but I prefer to sow a few seeds of each in small 3 inch pots, and if too many germinate to thin out to three in each. The seedlings are kept near the glass to prevent drawing, and when the small pots are filled with roots the plants are potted on to their flowering sizes, which will be 6or 7 inch. Schizanthus make good specimens when two or three plants are put into half a petrol tin. To cause branching the seedlings are pinched when they are about 3 inches high. Schizanthus
A good geranium cutting. Before planting remove leaves marked A, so as to leave a long stem that may be planted deeply.
can be pinched a second time if they show flower buds too early. Support the stems with neat stakes, and give a little feeding when flower buds appear. Sehizanthus make a good display when massed together, but Clarkias and Godetias are better arranged with Hydrangeas, or with a groundwork of ferns.
Primulas. —The various greenhouse Primulas, P. Kewensis, P. sinensis, P. malacoides, and P. ohconica in their different varieties are very useful in the greenhouse in winter and early spring. P. Kewensis and P. ohconica take some time to develop into flowering plants, and seed has to be sown early, say in December or January. They do not
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require any heat, in fact there is more trouble in keeping them cool during the summer than in keeping them warm. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they are pricked out into boxes or pans, and when well grown are potted up into 3 inch pots, and later on into 5 inch, in which they will flower, or they may be potted direct into 5 inch. *
P. malacoides is sown in January, and P. sinensis , both the large-flowered and stellata types, in February, a later sowing being made in March. The seedlings are treated as described for P. Kewensis, and when the pots are filled with roots and the flower buds appear give liquid manure. After flowering P. malacoides and P. sinensis can be thrown away, but if P. Kewensis and P. ohconica are top-dressed and placed in the greenhouse or in frames until they form surface roots, they can be divided up, re-potted, and grown on for another year. There are now many varieties of all the species, and one of the best of each should be set aside and pollinated to provide seed.
Cinerarias.—These greenhouse annuals are very useful for providing a bright display in the greenhouse in winter and early spring. Their distinct colours are always much admired, and being almost hardy they can be grown on in frames until the flower buds show colour. Seed is sown in November and December, and the seedlings pricked off into boxes as soon as they are large enough to handle. Keep the plants cool and as soon as possible put out into a frame. When large enough they are potted up, the large flowered varieties into 3 inch, and the stellatas into 4 inch pots. They are then put back into the frame, kept close for a few days, and shaded during the day until they get over the check received. When the smaller pots are filled with roots, but before the plants become pot-bound and stunted, they are potted up into their flowering receptacles, which will be 6 or 7 inch pots, or half petrol tins, in which the tall stellatas flower well. Continue to grow on in the frames, shading during bright sunshine and opening them up at nights to allow dew to fall on them. House when they show colour, or as soon as the chrysanthemums are over. Cinerarias are quite satisfactory in the open in some
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gardens, and any excess seedlings can be planted out in a cool semi-shaded place free from frosts. Superb mixed stellata, and Feltham Beauty are the kinds to grow. Lilies of various kinds can be grown in pots for the greenhouse, also Nerines and Hippeastrums, hut the latter are better if subjected to heat during their growing period.
Cyclamens.—The Persian cyclamen is one of the most beautiful and most useful of the winter and spring flowering greenhouse plants, being alike suitable for greenhouse and house decoration. In the warmer districts they can be grown in the open and used as bedding plants, and in the South they are satisfactory if the flowers are protected from being spattered with mud by a bell glass or handlight.
A—Soil level. B—Compost. C—Drainage. In potting a cyclamen keep the corm above soil level, as shown,
Though they are true perennials, and can be grown on for several years, they are more satisfactory when flowered for two seasons and then thrown away to make room for the seedlings.
Seed can be sown in December or January in well drained six inch pots, the seeds being dibbled in an inch apart and about a quarter of an inch deep, and covered with a piece of glass. Germination is somewhat erratic; some seeds will come up quickly, while others may take up to six weeks.
As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they are potted up singly in three inch pots, or they are pricked
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out into boxes, and grown on steadily in a warm moist atmosphere through the winter and spring. By the middle of January they should be ready for transfer to their flowering pots, which will be five or six inch sizes. The soil mixture will be the same as for primulas, with a little more leaf mould and less bone meal. The plants can be grown on in the cool greenhouse, or they can be placed out in a cold frame and grown on like the cinerarias until the flower buds develop, when they are taken into the greenhouse. While the seedlings are growing they should be sprayed overhead twice a day during bright sunny weather, and to keep down mites and green fly they should be sprayed occasionally with a tobacco wash or fumigated with X.L. All. They should also receive a little soot water and weak liquid manure, alternately once a week, until they are housed, when a dusting of Standen’s or Clay’s fertiliser can be given. The plants will commence to flower about the middle of June, and continue until the middle of September.
After flowering the plants die down and the leaves shrivel, when the tubers can be stored away in a cool shady place, such as under the greenhouse stage, and kept sufficiently moist to prevent the corms from shrivelling. When the new growths appear on the crowns of the old corms they are shaken out of the old soil and repotted in six inch pots, care being taken to keep the corms on the surface of the soil. Give one good watering, spray lightly overhead twice a day during dry weather, but water very carefully until the roots occupy the new soil.
Cyclamen can be bad in a great many beautiful shades, the giant flowered salmon shades being particularly attractive. There are also sweet-scented and silver-leaved varieties.
Calceolarias.—The greenhouse calceolarias are very ornamental, having large flowers showing a great variety of colouring and marking. They are fairly easy to grow in a cool season, but more difficult when it is warm and dry. Seed is sown in December and January, and as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they are pricked out into pans or shallow boxes, and grown on in the coolest
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part of the greenhouse. When well grown they are potted up into 3 inch pots and stood on a bed of ashes on the greenhouse bench or in a cold frame. They are grown on steadily throughout the autumn, and in June or July are potted up into their flowering pots, which will be 6 or 7 inch size. Use the stock soil already described, with the addition of a little extra dry cow manure. They will grow on through the winter and early spring, and will flower in November and December. Calceolarias are very liable to attacks of greenfly, and frequent fumigations are necessary.
Other cool greenhouse plants of easy culture are Humea elegans, Physalis Franchettii, Rhemannia angulata, Heliotrope, and Fuchsias.
Foliage Plants for a Cool Greenhouse. —A certain number of foliage plants are useful for forming a background or a suitable setting for the flowering plants, and when well grown these can also be used for house decoration.
Aspidistras, palms of the Chamaerops type, Aralias, Grevilleas, Dracaenas, hardy ferns, such as various Pteris, Aspleniums, etc., Isolepis gracilis, Asparagus plumosa, and Anthericum are all easy to grow. These should be kept in as small pots as possible, re-potted or top-dressed in spring when growth commences, and kept healthy with applications of weak liquid manure occasionally. These plants should be kept clean by occasional fumigating and sponging with warm soapy water.
Forced Bulbs. —ln Europe and North America there is a very extensive trade in forced bulbs and other plants, which are used for greenhouse decoration, house plants, and cut flowers. In New Zealand there is not the same need for this, because certain spring-flowering, bulbous plants flower naturally during the winter in the north, and the blooms can be transported quickly and in good condition to the south. But a few pots of spring-flowering bulbs in bloom a month or more earlier than usual give one a foretaste of the display to come, and are always appreciated.
Sophora tetraptera. Yellow Kowhai. From Lain a tf- Blackwell’ * “ Plant m of \cw 7.calami ”
Wistaria sinensis. Kelway, Langport, Somerset
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Daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, freesias, lachenalias, crocuses, and grape hyacinths, can all be forced successfully. The bulbs to use need not be large, but they should be well developed, well ripened, and free from blemishes and disease.
Ordinary potting soil, consisting of three parts of loam, one of leaf mould, one of sand, a little lime rubble, and a dusting of bone meal will prove satisfactory.
Five or six inch pots are the most convenient sizes to use, as they will not only fit into ornamental bowls, but are of a suitable size for furnishing the greenhouse benches.
Bulbs growing in fibre. A —Fibre compost. B—Drainage.
Hyacinth bulbs may be potted either singly in five inch pots or in threes in six inch pots; tulips and daffodils in threes in five inch pots, or from four to five in six inch pots; while freesias and smaller bulbs may be set out in fives in five inch pots, or from seven to eight in six inch pots.
When bulbs are grown to supply cut flowers, it is more economical to plant them in boxes, allowing a space of at least one inch between each bulb. Polyanthus narcissi, especially the variety Soleil d’Or, are the most useful bulbs for forcing in this manner.
When planting tulips and hyacinths, leave one-third of the bulb showing above the surface of the soil; daffodils should have the necks just showing, while the smaller bulbs are planted one inch below the surface.,
Potting and boxing should be done as soon as possible in the autumn so that the plants may have time to develop their roots before the actual forcing commences. M
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When grown in boxes, daffodils are placed behind a wall or hedge, and covered with leaves; tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils grown in pots have smaller pots inverted over them and are then plunged in ashes; the smaller bulbs, such as freesias, are placed in a cool shady frame, or on the greenhouse bench.
In spring, when growth is evident, the pots or boxes are taken into the cool greenhouse for a few weeks to
Growing Narcissi or Hyacinths in pots. 1. Putting bulbs into a pot. 2. Labelling bulbs and covering them with wood ashes. 3. Bulbs ready for transplanting. 4. Narcissi supported by raffia encircling sticks. 5. Tying each flower spike of hyacinth to a separate stick.
encourage further development, after which they are placed in the warm house to force on the flowers.
As the flower stems develop on freesias and lachenalias, thin neat stakes should be provided to keep them erect.
Lachenalias are very satisfactory when grown in hanging baskets. Polyanthus narcissi and hyacinths can be grown in vases or bowls without soil.
The Heated Greenhouse. —All the plants described so far can be grown in a greenhouse without heat or with just sufficient heat to keep out frost and maintain growth during the winter. When we can raise the temperature to a minimum of 55° to 60° we are able to extend the collection of
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plants to sub-tropical kinds, which include Gloxinias, Streptocarpus, maidenhair ferns, etc.
Gloxinias. —-To grow these plants successfully a fair amount of heat is required. They occupy the same position in the sub-tropical house as do the tuberous begonias in the cool house. They are easily grown from seed when submitted to an average temperature of 60° Fahrenheit. The seed should be sown in early spring in six inch pots, half filled with crocks. The surface soil has to be made very fine, and the seed is so small that it should not be covered with soil, it being sufficient to sprinkle a little clean sand over it. A sheet of glass is then put over the top of the pot to keep in moisture, and a piece of paper is placed over this until germination takes place. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, they are pricked out into pans or shallow boxes of light soil, and when large enough are potted up, first into three inch pots, and later on into five inch pots, in which they will flower the first year. After flowering, the plants are gradually ripened off, and are then stored for the winter in their pots in the warm greenhouse. During this period water should be withheld. In spring they are shaken out of the old soil and started into growth by packing the tubers, which should be just covered with soil, in shallow boxes. When growth is well under way, the plants are potted up into six inch pots, in which they will flower the second year. If, however, facilities are available for raising seedlings, it is better to throw away the two year old tubers and grow a fresh batch every year. By pollinating a few of the best flowers each year, one may easily obtain fresh seed, which will germinate readily.
Streptocarpus.—These plants have been so wonderfully improved of recent years that one can now procure large flowers borne on long stalks and showing a great variation in colour. They are raised and grown in the same way as gloxinias. They do not require, however, such a moist warm atmosphere as do the latter, and during the flowering period are quite at home in the ordinary greenhouse. It is better to grow a batch of seedlings each year than to go to the trouble of saving the two year old plants.
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Begonia manicata.—There are several warm house begonias such as Gloire de Lorraine, Gloire de Sceanx, President Carnot (which makes a good climber), and B. manicata, all of which are worth growing. The last named is one of the most useful, being of easy culture, with beautiful tall loose pink panicles of flowers, which are produced through winter and early spring. As soon as the flowering period is over the young growths are taken off as cuttings, inserted in small pots of sandy soil, and
Such plants as streptocarpus, begonia and gloxinia may be raised from leaf cuttings pressed into a mixture of peat and sand and placed under glass.
plunged in bottom heat. When rooted, the young plants are potted up into four inch pots, and again later into six inch pots, in which they will flower. To obtain extra large specimens which will flower earlier, a few of the old plants can be shaken out, re-potted into seven or eight inch pots, and grown on in the warm greenhouse, along with the young ones.
Poinsettias.—The bright red bracts of the ordinary poinsettias are very decorative in winter, lasting for quite a while, either cut or on the plants. After flowering the old plants are rested a little, then watered and started into growth. The young shoots which arise up the stem are taken off as cuttings with a heel, put into small pots of sandy soil, and plunged in bottom heat. When rooted they are potted up, first into three inch pots, and later on into five or six inch size. The plants are grown on steadily in the warm greenhouse, and fed with liquid manure when signs of flowering appear. If necessary, the old plants may be re-potted and grown on for a second and third year.
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Euphorbia jacquiniasflora (fulgens)—This species, with its thin arching stems, bearing quantities of small flowers with orange scarlet bracts, is even more beautiful than the ordinary poinsettia. It is grown from cuttings in the same manner as poinsettias. Old plants, if cut back, will make good specimens, and will flower again the following year.
Rex Begonias.—These plants are grown for their large handsome foliage, which shows some wonderful colouring and markings. They are propagated by leaf cuttings, which are pegged down on a bed of sand, and when rooted, are potted up in the usual way. They are very effective when planted on rustic corkwork or rock-work built against the walls or under the benches of the glasshouse.
Achimenes, Gesnerias, Tydias, and Saintpaulias.—These are all members of the Gesneria family, and require warm greenhouse treatment. They are grown from seed in the first place, but afterwards can be increased and perpetuated by their fleshy tubers. They require similar treatment to Gloxinias, and like a fair amount of heat and moisture. Achimenes are very effective when grown in wire baskets.
Acalypha Sanderi.—This is a peculiar hardwooded tender plant, with long pendulous red inflorescences. It can be propagated by means of cuttings, these being potted up and grown on as they require attention. Old plants can be cut over after flowering, and re-potted to make larger specimens. The ornamental foliaged Acalyphas and the beautiful and peculiar leaved Codiseums are also very suitable for the warm greenhouse, along with Hibiscus, Dracaenas. Dieffenbachias, Pandanus, and Coleus.
Climbers.—Climbers on the roof are very effective when the flowers are allowed to hang downwards, the following being suitable for the warm house. Allamandas, Solanum Wendlandii, Bougainvilleas, Aristolochias, Stephanotis, Clerodendrons, Begonias, Thunbergias, and Hoya. Cool greenhouse climbers are Fuchsias, Passion flowers, Smilax, Asparagus, Teeomas, Pleuromas, Lapagerias, etc.
Ferns.—Though ferns are very green and beautiful they are mainly treated as a setting or groundwork for flowering
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plants, or to provide suitable foliage for arranging with cut flowers. For this purpose the Adiantums or maidenhair ferns are the most popular. These are grown in pots or planted out on rockwork under the staging in the warm greenhouse. In early spring, as soon as the young fronds begin to appear, the old plants in pots can be re-potted or divided up. As they receive a big check when divided, it is really better to have two lots, one in five inch pots which are potted on to six and seven inch sizes with little root disturbance, and another lot in larger pots which are divided up and potted into five inch pots, from which they will be moved on into the larger sizes again the following season.
Watering a pot fern by standing it in a tub of water for a few minutes.
When dividing the plants or re-potting them, tease out the old roots and pot firmly in a soil mixture containing more leaf mould than the usual potting compost. Water well during growth, give liquid manure in the late summer and autumn, and shade from strong sunshine. The most useful kinds are Adiantum cuneatum, and A. graciUimum for foliage purposes; A. (ethiopicum for baskets, and A. Farleyense for specimen plants.
Native ferns are not hard to grow, and are very useful for furnishing bush houses and damp shady corners. They can be grown in pots, but are much better when planted out on rock work or mounds built of old tree stumps, with an overgrowth of tree ferns and an undergrowth of the
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more filmy kinds. These can be obtained from the bush, the best time to move them being just as fresh growth is preparing to start in the spring.
Nephrolepis in its many forms is a very good basket fern, and though it does require heat to stimulate growth when first broken up, it can be grown on in cool conditions afterwards.
Ferns require partial shade, a moist atmosphere, and a reasonable degree of heat, all of which are difficult to provide in a mixed collection of greenhouse plants, but quite easy in a special fern or palm house.
Other ferns suitable for the warm house are:— Bleehnum, Davallia, Platy cerium (Stag’s-hom Fern), Pteris, Alsophila, and various Selaginellas.
Palms.—Palms are so suitable for house decoration, and for arranging with flowering plants either as a background or as an overgrowth, that wherever there is a little artificial heat, a number should be grown. For house decoration, care should be taken not to overpot them so that they may fit into ornamental vases and bowls. Kentias are the favourite palms for general purposes. By buying small specimens (almost seedlings), and growing them on gradually they will be useful for years. When potting on young plants, use the usual soil mixture; do not give very big shifts at one time, and pot firmly. Give plenty of water during the growing season, with liquid manure once a week, and shade from strong sunshine. Spray overhead night and morning when the weather is warm and sunny, and sponge frequently to keep the foliage clean. Though Kentias are the most common palms in cultivation, there are other species which are desirable, such as Phoenix Eoehellini, Livistona chinensis, Phoenix rupicola, Seaforthia elegans, Oreodoxa regis, Cocos plumosa, and Cocos Weddeliana. Foliage plants useful for placing in the front of the stages to hide the flower pots, which even when clean are never ornamental, are Panicum, Isolepsis, and Anthericum, all of which are easy to cultivate, and may be readily increased by means of cuttings or division.
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Other foliage plants for the warm greenhouse, similar in requirements to palms are:—
Alocasia
Ficus elastica
Aralias
Fittonia
Billbergia
Marantas
Caladiums
Monstera deliciosa
Codiasums
Musa Ensete
Pandanus
Coleus
Dieffenbachias
Phyllanthus
Dracaenas, green and
Sanchezia
variegated
Sanse viera
Warm house flowering plants are Gloriosa superba, Ixoras, Medinilla magnifica, Tillandsias, Gardenias, Hibiscus, Bignonia, Acalypha, Anthurium, etc.
Greenhouse climbers are:—Passifloras, Bougainvilleas, Dipladenia, Aristolochias, Manettia bicolor, Allamanda, Thunbergia, Clerodendron, Stephanotis, Ficus repens, Gloriosa and Vanilla, Myrsiphyllum, Hoya carnosa, and the various forms of Asparagus, Lasiandra, etc.
Hippeastrums.—Though some of the hippeastrums are almost hardy they are very useful for assisting with the display in the warm greenhouse during spring and early summer. They can be grown from seed quite easily and to establish a collection it is best to obtain a few bulbs of a good strain, pollinate the best, and sow the seed as soon as ripe in a box. It will germinate almost at once, and the
seedlings can be pricked out into other boxes of rich soil or into a special bed made up in the greenhouse. The latter is the better method, and if grown on steadily, flowering bulbs will be produced in three years. These are potted up into five inch pots and plunged in a bed of tan or ashes. The flower buds appear before the leaves and after these are over the foliage has to be encouraged to develop by frequent overhead syringing and applications of liquid manure.
When they show signs of ripening off water is withheld, and when the foliage is removed the pots can be stood up on a sunny shelf or out in a sunny frame to secure thorough ripening.
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The bulbs are stored on a shelf in the greenhouse during winter, and in spring when they show signs of growth they are re-potted or top-dressed, and again plunged in a bed as before. By raising a few seedlings each year the gardener may soon establish a good collection, old bulbs being thrown away when too large and ugly.
Orchids.—Orchids have for a long time been considered the aristocrats of the vegetable kingdom, largely on account of the rarity of some of the kinds and the reputed high prices paid for some of the species and hybrids by collectors. There are three more or less distinct types; —
(1) Terrestrial—those which grow in ordinary soil and are mostly characteristic of the cooler countries.
(2) Semi-terrestrial —those which like a proportion of loam in their potting mixture, and
(3) Epiphytic—those which grow on trees, rocks, etc., and derive their nourishment from the air, water, and the decaying vegetation which lodges among their roots.
Many of the cool house orchids can be grown in an ordinary greenhouse with just sufficient heat to keep out frost during the winter, but as most of them require more moisture in the atmosphere than is good for the ordinary greenhouse plants when in flower, they are better accommodated in a house by themselves, no matter how small it may he. When in flower, however, they can be staged along with the other greenhouse occupants.
An orchid house should not be too high and airy, there should be ample top and bottom ventilation, and the sparred benches on which the plants are placed should be built about a foot above a layer of coke or clinkers which will hold moisture and allow it to evaporate through the plants.
It is a mistake to think that all orchids require a very high temperature. Those known as cool house kinds — the sorts which an amateur should start with —can be grown in a minimum day temperature of 50° to 55° Pah. during the winter, and 60° to 70° during the summer, with a drop of about 10° at night. Shading is necessary during
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the summer, and this can be provided by stippling the glass with thin white paint, or better still by roller blinds which can be rolled up during dull days and in the afternoons.
Orchids can be grown in ordinary pots, specially manufactured pots and pans with holes in the sides, and in wooden baskets or rafts. The potting mixture should be one which would admit the maximum amount of air, and at the same time retain the maximum amount of water. Osmunda fern fibre and peat form the basis of the potting soil for orchids in England, but as these materials have to be imported at considerable cost, Polypodium fibre obtained from broadleaf or other rough barked trees is found to be a very good substitute. For epiphytes this fibre is chopped up and mixed with a quantity (usually about half) of chopped sphagnum moss and some pieces of broken crocks and charcoal. For semi-terrestrial kinds such as the greenleaved Cypripediums, an equal quantity of fibrous loam from which the fine dust has been sifted is added to the fibre and moss. When crocking pots about a third of the pot is filled with crocks placed on their edges for semiterrestrial kinds, and half filled for the true epiphytes. When potting, the surface is finished off level with the rim of the pots in the case of Cypripediums, and built up to a height of three or more inches above the pot in the case of the epiphytes such as the Cattleyas.
Most of the potting has to be done in the spring when the winter flowering kinds have finished blooming, and as soon as they start their new growth, but in a mixed collection potting goes on all the year round, except in the dead of winter, the correct time being just as growth becomes active after flowering. It is not necessary to shake out and re-pot every year so long as the mixture is open and sweet, and the plants healthy and flowering well, it being sufficient to do a little top-dressing with fibre and live sphagnum moss once a year. In all cases after potting a few heads of live sphagnum moss are pricked into the surface, and as a rule as long as this remains alive and green the plants are receiving plenty of water; for if the potting mixture is right and the roots healthy they can
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stand frequent watering as well as being sprayed overhead twice a day during warm sunny weather. The benches and paths should also be frequently damped. Like all other plants, orchids are attacked by pests, but these can be kept in check by occasional fumigating with an approved fumigant, and sponging the foliage with warm soapy water. In most cases the orchids make new pseudobulbs every year, and as the flowers are produced from these, it is important that the plants should make good growth so as to develop good flowers. Though they have a period of rest they should never be dried up, nor should these pseudo-bulbs be allowed to shrivel.
The following are a few of the more common and easily managed genera:—
Anguloa (Cradle orchid) is a suitable subject for the intermediate house, and treatment is as for semi-terrestrial kinds. Calanthes are terrestrial kinds, some being evergreen and others deciduous. Potting material and treatment are as for semi-terrestrials with more loam added to the mixture; intermediate temperature. Catasetums—curious epiphytic kinds which should be grown in baskets because the flowers grow out through the bottom. Cattleyas comprise one of the largest and most varied groups and also one of the most showy. They require warm house treatment, and are true epiphytes. Ccelogynes —This is also a large group, having peculiar pseudo-bulbs and varied but very beautiful flowers. C. cristata is the most common, and as it flowers in the winter, it is of special value. It should not be re-potted for years, but an annual top-dressing can be given; intermediate house.
Cymbidiums are large growing orchids suitable for the intermediate or cool house and semi-terrestrial treatment. They flower in winter, and though the colours are not bright, the markings are attractive and the flowers last for a long time. Cypripediums (Ladies’ Slipper orchids) — These form one of the largest and most useful groups. C. insigne, including its many varieties, is of easy culture. It will thrive in an ordinary greenhouse, and as it flowers during the winter and the flowers last a long time both on the plants and when cut, it should be grown extensively.
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The spotted leaved kinds require more heat, but otherwise they are as easy to manage as C. insigne. There are a great many hybrids and garden forms of this genus.
Dendrobiums are peculiar plants and at times they look like a bunch of dried sticks. They are mostly tropical and their colourings are varied and beautiful. Laelias—These are somewhat like Cattleyas in their colourings, but will grow under cooler conditions. Lycastes will thrive in cool conditions and are semi-terrestrial in their habits. Odontoglossoms—These are the most extensively grown of all cool house orchids on account of the suitability of their graceful and attractive flowers for floral work, and the ease with which they may be cultivated. They are true epiphytes, but like cool moist conditions and plenty of fresh air at all times. There are also a great many species, hybrids, and garden varieties of this genus. Oncidium is also a large genus, most of the species being suitable for the intermediate house. Phaius and Sobralias are strong-growing terrestrial orchids also suitable for the intermediate house.
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.
The vegetable garden may not be the most ornamental part of the home garden, but when neatly laid out, well cultivated, and cropped with skill, it can be most interesting and profitable. It can be made to provide a great variety of health-giving food at all seasons of the year, and may be of value as an open air hobby. Although one cau have an extensive area devoted to vegetable growing in the country, and can select a site specially suitable for the purpose, in the towns where areas are rather restricted one has to make the best of the site and soil available; but a small garden well cultivated and cropped to provide a succession of vegetables will give better results and more satisfaction than a larger one indifferently managed.
Planning the Vegetable Garden.—When laying out the vegetable garden it should be divided into four plots called breaks, which are separated from each other by narrow paths called alley-ways. Small borders near the paths should be provided for raising seedlings
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and bringing on small patches of quick-growing vegetables, such as mustard and cress, and radishes. Of the four plots, one should be devoted to the more permanent subjects such as asparagus, seakale, and rhubarb, with a border for horse-radish and perennial herbs.
To begin with the whole area should be trenched 2| to 3 feet deep according to the depth of soil and the nature of the subsoil. Subsequently one of these plots should be re-trenched every year.
When carrying out trenching operations, all organic matter, even to hedge clippings, can be buried, thus enriching the soil and disposing of debris.
How to sharpen a spade. Keep the spade steady by pressing the knee firmly against the handle.
Good drainage is also essential inasmuch as drained land is warmer and crops will mature earlier on it than on that which is saturated with moisture during the growing season. Drains can be laid with agricultural pipes, stones, or scrub, care being taken that they have a fall to a suitable outlet.
For manuring, see article on this subject
Cultivation. —In addition to deep trenching and digging, thorough cultivation is required when preparing for sowing or planting, it being much easier to prepare the soil
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thoroughly before a crop is put in than afterwards. This is done by means of the fork or hoe, care being taken to keep the fine soil formed through the action of frost and weather on the surface, where it will be of value in covering the seed. Subsequent cultivation mainly with the scuffle hoe has to be carried out regularly during the development of the crops to keep down weeds and to maintain a fine surface mulch which lets in air to the roots, and retains moisture during dry weather.
Use a tin with a perforated lid for dusting soot, lime, or fertiliser between rows of vegetables.
Liming.—Most vegetable crops require lime, especially the brassicas and pod-bearing plants. In addition to having a most beneficial effect on soils, binding loose sands, and opening up stiff clays, it exerts an important pathological effect, removing sourness, destroying harmful fungoid pests, such as club root, and killing slugs and snails.
Rotation of Crops.—To utilise the vegetable garden to the greatest advantage it is necessary to adopt a system of rotation of crops so that the same kind does not occupy the same position year after year. The garden should be divided into four plots of about equal size, one of which will be occupied with the permanent crops such as asparagus, sea kale, rhubarb, artichokes, and herbs, and the other three devoted to annual crops. If one of these is trenched each year it should be planted with potatoes; another should be well manured and planted with green crops such as cauliflower, cabbage, spinach, celery, leeks, dwarf beans, onions, and shallots, etc.; and the third, which would not be manured with farmyard manure, with root crops such as beet, carrots, parsnips, and turnips.
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Peas and beans which require tall stakes are better placed along the margins or interspersed through the plots in such a way as not to shade the crops unduly but still have the maximum amount of sunlight for themselves.
There are two main reasons for rotation of crops, one being that as different crops require different quantities of the main food constituents, and they root to different depths, by changing the crops round we more fully utilise the plant food in the soil. Then different crops are attacked by different diseases, for example, the brassicas, represented by turnips and cabbages, are susceptible to attacks of club root, and by changing round they are put into clean ground each year.
In very small gardens it may not be possible to change the plots, but here the next best thing is to change the position of the rows.
In the following table the principal rotations are shown for a three-years’ cycle of operations.
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Brussels sprouts require the same rotation as Kale.
Cauliflowers „ „ „ Cabbage.
Kidney beans „ „ „ Peas.
Parsnips „ „ „ Carrots
Peas „ „ „ Beans.
Turnips „ „ „ Carrots.
Succession. —It is most important to sow or plant so as to maintain a succession throughout the whole year. This is obtained by sowing or planting quick maturing kinds in early spring as soon as soil and weather conditions are favourable, or by planting out when hardened off, those seedlings which have been brought on in the greenhouse or frames. These early crops are followed by main crop varieties, or by those kinds which stand through the winter or mature during the following spring. Very early supplies are obtained by sowing or planting in the autumn.
The motto in vegetable growing should be little and often, so that crops are always maturing throughout the season. As soon as one crop is past its best, the land should be cleared and replanted or re-sown with another kind of crop. If the space is not required, the soil should be dug or trenched and left rough to expose it to the weather. Another important point to be observed is to sow or plant only the best varieties available, for besides being superior in quality and flavour, a good kind occupies no more room and absorbs no more food and water than does a poor kind.
The objects of a vegetable grower should be
( a ) To provide sufficient to supply family requirements.
( b ) To maintain a continuous succession of crops.
(c) To cultivate with thoroughness and economy.
( d ) To maintain the productivity of the land year after year.
(e) To produce medium-sized specimens which, unless required for keeping purposes, should be used when young and tender.
Forcing - .—Ordinary supplies can be supplemented during winter and early spring by forcing certain vegetables in a heated greenhouse or frame, by heaping fermenting
Primula sinensis.
Stellate Cinerarias.
Greenhouse Calceolaria.
Gloxinia.
Gloxinia. One-year-old seedling.
Sehizanthus wisetonensis.
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materials over them in the open, or by protecting early crops with cloches or handlights.
Growing for Exhibition. —Vegetable growing for exhibition is an interesting as well as a productive hobby, for modern judges prefer specimens of medium size and of good quality suitable for the kitchen, rather than the monsters of coarse quality, at one time so popular.
Size combined with quality tells, however, and those who want well-developed specimens for summer shows, have to sow or plant early or bring on their plants in a greenhouse or frame. They have also to allow them plenty of room,
When sowing seed in rows use a garden line and a draw hoe.
plenty of manure, and plenty of water at all times, to dig or collect them with great care, and set them up in a clean and attractive manner. They should be free from blemishes of any kind and should show no signs of attacks of either insect or fungoid pests.
Practically all the vegetables which are grown can be cultivated successfully in some part of New Zealand, and by taking pains a very large and varied amount of food can he produced even in a small town garden.
Seed Sowing and Planting.—ln preparation for seed sowing the surface soil should be made fine with the fork and raked reasonably level.
Mark out the plot with pegs at the desired distance required between the rows, stretch the garden line from N
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peg to peg, and with the corner of the draw hoe make drills at the desired depth. This will vary according to the size of the seed, but will be about half an inch for such fine seeds as carrots, turnips, and onions, three-quarters of an inch for spinach and parsnips, and one inch for beet. Sow thinly if the seeds are known to be fresh, give a dusting of phosphates or blood and bone, cover with soil taken out, make firm with the feet or the head of the rake, and then smooth over the surface with the back of the rake. Should the soil be wet and sticky at the time of sowing, it is better to use some dry soil from the potting shed for covering the seed.
To provide shade and protection from birds, it is better to place some pieces of twiggy scrub over the plot until germination takes place, when it can be replaced by a few strands of black cotton stretched along the rows.
Larger seeds such as beans and peas are usually sown in flat drills, six to nine inches wide, and about two inches deep. These are formed with the spade or hoe, and the seeds are sown in rows down the margins or scattered thinly throughout the drill.
To produce extra fine specimens of carrots, parsnips, and long beet, particularly on soils that are heavy and sticky, it is better to make holes with a crowbar and to fill these in with fine soil to which some bone meal has been added. Sow a few seeds on the top of each hole and later thin out to one seedling.
Planting.—This is done with the trowel or dibber, the latter being used for leeks and brassicas when they have few fibrous roots. Should, however, the plants have good roots with a ball of soil attached, it is much better to use the trowel. Mark out with lines the same as for seed sowing, make a hole with the trowel wide and deep enough to allow the roots to go in without crushing them, put in soil and firm, and then give a good watering to wash the soil in among the fine roots and to settle the plant in its new position. Should the weather be dry and sunny, it is an advantage to shade with green twiggy branches for a few days.
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Protecting Seeds from Mice and Birds. —Seeds can be protected from mice by coating them with red lead. Moisten the seeds in a tin or flower pot, add some red lead, and shake the receptacle until all the seeds are coated. To protect from birds it is better to cover with wire netting, scrub, or black cotton. Ordinary bird netting bent over and kept in position with pieces of stick is quite effective, and easy to fix, and will last for years.
A wire netting pea guard for protection from birds.
Two kinds of wooden supports for black cotton threads used to protect seeds from birds.
Making a Hotbed.—A hotbed is very useful for rooting cuttings and bringing on seedlings of both vegetables and flowers in the spring, as well as for growing cucumbers or vegetable marrows during the summer. It is the most economical method of treating stable manure, for after the heat has been used it is still as valuable a fertiliser for the various crops as ever, and much better than that which has been stacked in the open and exposed to the weather.
The materials necessary are long strawy stable manure and dead leaves. These are shaken up and mixed together into a loose heap and left for a few days until fermentation has begun. The heap is again shaken out, the outside material being placed inside to secure even fermentation. For an ordinary bed the leaves and manure will be in about equal proportions. When finishing off the hotbed
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shake out the material evenly and tramp it down firmly as the building proceeds; then put two inches of old potting soil or light loam on top.
The bed can be built up on the surface of the ground, but one made in an excavation or in a brick pit holds the heat much longer. When built on the surface the heap should extend two feet beyond the frame which is to sit on top of it. It should be 6 ft. by 6 ft. for two sashes or 6 ft. by 3 ft. for one. The height of an ordinary hotbed should be three feet, which will settle down to two feet as decay proceeds.
Keep the sashes tilted up a bit to allow the rank gases to escape. Put in a thermometer to register the temperature, and wait till the heat has subsided to about 65° before putting in any seed pans or cuttings pots. When the hotbed is made up during the winter pack it round with straw, hay, or leaves to keep in the heat, and on frosty nights cover the sashes with sacks or scrim.
Vegetables which can be grown in New Zealand.
Artichokes (Chinese). —These are not very popular, but are easy to grow, and provide variety. The tubers are planted in September four inches deep, in rows 18 inches apart, with 12 inches between the tubers in the rows. As the plants soon shrivel after being dug, it is better to lift them as they are required.
Artichokes (Globe). —This is quite a noble hardy perennial, and because of its bold handsome foliage is worthy of a place in the herbaceous or shrubbery border. It is also suitable for planting on the margins of breaks to shelter other crops. Propagating is done by means of suckers, which are planted in groups of three, at four feet apart. They thrive well in a deep sandy loam enriched with stable manure. During the growing season the plants should receive plenty of water and liquid manure. The edible portion is the fleshy receptacle at the base of the flower buds, and these should be cut out as soon as fit, if the plant is to continue producing. Though this plant will continue to flower for years, it is better to replant occasionally.
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By kind permission of the publisher t of “The Garden." Various types of hotbeds and frames.
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Artichokes (Jerusalem). —These will grow in any good well-manured soil, and as the stems grow tall, and the foliage is tough and hardy, they are often planted on the margins of breaks to provide shelter for the more delicate crops. Shapely tubers as smooth as possible are planted in rows 4 inches deep and 18 inches apart. Where more than one row is planted, allow three feet between them. As growth proceeds give a good earthing up, and later on top the stems at about five feet. When these ripen in the autumn, they can be cut down and the tubers dug and
Edible heads of Globe artichokes.
stored in sand, or left and dug as required. The white variety gives the larger crop.
Asparagus.—This is a very popular vegetable which most people should endeavour to grow, for it produces edible stems in succession over a long period when fresh vegetables are scarce. Being a seaside plant the asparagus thrives best on light sandy well-drained soil, but if the soil is of a heavy wet clayey nature, the beds should be excavated to a depth of 2| to 3 feet. A six inch layer of brickbats or clinkers for drainage should be spread over the bottom of each bed, followed by a layer of wellrotted stable manure, the rest of the space then being made up to six inches above the surface with good sandy loam. In ordinary well-drained soils trenching to 2J to 3 feet deep will be sufficient provided a good
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dressing of well-rotted farmyard manure or seaweed is incorporated into the soil at the time. Trenching operations are best carried out during the autumn, and in the spring the beds are prepared for planting. The plants are usually grown in beds either 3 feet wide for two rows
How to plant asparagus roots. Lettuces may be planted on the ridges.
How to build and plant an asparagus bed.
of plants or 5 feet wide for three rows. When two or more beds are required alley-ways two feet wide should be provided between the plots. By forming drills six inches wide and four inches deep, with a crown in the centre and deeper at the sides, the plants, which should be one or two years old, can then be placed 18 inches apart in the drills with their roots spread out over the crown, and covered with fine sandy soil.
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Beds can also be established by direct sowing. Pegs are inserted at regular intervals 18 inches apart, a few seeds being sown at each. When the seeds germinate they are thinned out to one seedling at every peg.
Newly planted beds should not be cut at all the first year, and only sparingly the second year. Afterwards the cutting season should not exceed eight weeks. In autumn when the stems have ripened, and before they scatter their seeds, they should be cut off close to the ground. A little later the beds can be cleaned, lightly forked over, and top-dressed with well-rotted manure or seaweed, which should be covered with clean soil or sea sand. When seaweed or sea sand cannot be procured, it is the custom to give the beds a dressing of salt at the rate of a quarter of a pound to the square yard. Varieties to plant are Connover’s Colossal and Argenteuil Purple.
Always sow' broad beans with the eye downwards.
Beans.—The various bean crops are most important whether seed or the immature pods are made use of. Though beans are primarily summer and autumn vegetables, the dry seeds can be used as haricots and the surplus pods put down in brine for use during the winter. Like peas they are most nutritious, and can to some extent take the place of meat.
The Common or Broad Bean (Fabia vulgaris) is a native of the East, but is quite hardy, and a sowing made in the autumn will stand through the winter and come into bearing in the early summer. In districts where frosts are too severe, or where autumn sowing has been omitted, early supplies can be obtained by making a sowing in boxes, and placing these in a frame over a gentle hotbed
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or in a warm greenhouse until germination takes place; and after being hardened off the plants can be lifted with a ball of soil and transplanted to their permanent positions.
Though beans like a good strong soil, they are better planted in a position which was well manured for the previous crop. Applications of fresh stable manure encourage soft sappy growth which is inimical to the production of pods. Lime is an essential to all bean and pea crops, and a liberal dressing should be given when breaking down the soil in preparation for planting, and subsequent dusting will help to keep slugs away, as well as assist the crop. If manuring is necessary a dressing of bonemeal can be given when preparing the soil, and one of superphosphate and potash later on when germination has taken place. Make broad shallow drills with the spade, and sow the seed in double rows four to five inches apart, allowing from six to nine inches between the seeds.
After-cultivation is very simple, but as broad beans are usually planted at intervals through the other crops, to provide shelter it is necessary to support them by driving at intervals along the rows stout stakes to which strings are fastened. When sufficient pods have set to provide a good crop, the soft tips of the stems are pinched off, and in this way most of the black bean aphis is removed.
To provide crops in the late autumn and early winter, it is the practice to cut over the plants after the crop has been picked, or sow an extra row and cut the plants down before they have set pods. These come away again from the base, and eventually produce a crop of pods. There are two types of beans, one with long pods containing as many as seven to nine beans, represented by Mammoth Long Pod, and another containing about five larger and broader beans, represented by Giant Windsor.
The bean is an excellent vegetable when gathered at the right time and cooked properly, and as it is wholly distinct from either Kidney or Runner beans it deserves good cultivation. If gathered when too young the beans have a bitter taste, but have the best flavour when full grown but still tender. When gathering for exhibition, choose young.
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long, straight and shapely pods as nearly alike as possible, and the more beans they contain the better. Varieties to plant are Seville Long Pod, Mammoth Long Pod, Giant Windsor, and Broad Windsor.
Runner Beans (Phaseolus multiflarus) are natives of South America, and consequently are more tender than the Broad kinds. This is really a perennial, though it is better to treat it as an annual and to make fresh sowings each year. To get early supplies the roots can be lifted and stored in sand, and replanted in the early summer when they will produce pods earlier than those from
A method of training runner beans.
sowings made in the open. Earlier crops, however, can be obtained by sowing in boxes as recommended for broad beans, and after hardening off the plants, setting them out at the foot of a warm wall or fence. They can be protected from cold winds and frosts to some extent by sticking in a few pieces of twiggy branches round them. Like all other bean crops they like a well-drained soil with plenty of lime, but they have not the same objections to stable manure, provided it is dug in in the autumn and well mixed with the soil. Give a good dusting with lime when preparing for planting and again at intervals when stirring up the soil with a scuffle hoe. At no time should they suffer through lack of moisture, and a dusting of superphosphate after germination has taken place will
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assist growth and the production of pods. The first sowing in the open should not he made too soon, for if checked by either cold winds or frost they never do well afterwards. They are usually planted in double rows when planted in the open, the seeds being dibbled in, two inches deep, six inches between the seeds and nine inches between the rows. As soon as germination takes place they should be provided with good stout stakes, branches of deciduous trees being the most suitable, and these should be at least six feet high. When planted at the foot of a wall or fence, which is a very suitable position, they are put in a foot apart, and stakes or strings are provided for them to climb up. Varieties to sow are Champion Scarlet Runner, Giant White, Ne Plus Ultra, and Painted Lady.
Dwarf beans should be sown from 4 to 6 inches apart
French or Kidney Beans.—French or Kidney Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are also natives of South America, and are consequently very tender. They are sensitive to cold, and will not thrive in a temperature which does not exceed 50° F. The seeds, therefore, should not be sown in the open until all danger of frost is over. By sowing in boxes and afterwards planting out the seedlings in rows, six inches apart in a warm sheltered position, earlier crops can be secured. They thrive best on a light welldrained loam, and are most satisfactory when planted in a position which has been well manured for a previous crop. When breaking up the soil, work in a good dressing of lime and bone meal, draw drills about two inches deep with the draw hoe, and place the seeds at from three to four inches apart. If they all germinate they can be thinned out to six or eight inches, at which distance they have room to develop. Slugs are very fond of young
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Kidney Beans, and if the weather should be wet, it will be necessary to dust them frequently with powdered lime. When about six inches high, earth up by drawing up the soil on either side to provide support, and give liquid manure once a fortnight when the pods are developing.
If pods are gathered regularly when quite young, the plants will continue to crop for some time. There are now Climbing French Beans—a comparatively modern development—which are quite distinct from Runners, although grown in the same manner, except that the stakes need not be quite so tall.
Varieties of Kidney Beans to sow are, Canadian Wonder The Prince, and Superlative.
Effect of mulch on dwarf beans.
Without mulch.
Wax Pod or Butter Beans.—These are also a bit tender, but they produce quantities of almost transparent, waxy white pods about four inches long. They require similar treatment to dwarf kidney beans, and are cooked in the same way.
Haricot Beans.—Haricot Beans are grown in a similar way to the Dwarf Kidneys except that the pods are allowed to ripen. When ripe they can be pulled and hung up to dry, or spread out in the sun, and afterwards threshed out. They are useful during the winter, but as they can be obtained from the grocer quite easily, they are not worth growing except where space is unlimited.
Beet.—Being a seaside plant beet prefers a light sandy soil, but it can be grown successfully in any well-cultivated
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garden. The first sowing, which should be of the round or turnip-rooted variety, can be made as soon as soil conditions are favourable in the spring. This should be followed by two or three successive sowings at intervals of a fortnight. Allow 10 to 12 inches between the rows, and thin out the seedlings to six inches for the early kinds and 9 to 10 inches for the main crop. Where the soil is heavy, it is an advantage to cover the seed with sea sand. In autumn the roots should be lifted with great care and stored in sand or soil after twisting off the leaf stalks about three inches from the roots. Egyptian Turnip Rooted, Dell’s Dark Red, and Nutting’s Red are good varieties.
Beet (Silver) (Swiss Chard). —This is purely a leaf beet, the centres or midribs of the leaves being used as seakale and the green parts as spinach. When planted in rich soil it makes enormous foliage, which comes in useful in winter and early spring when spinach is scarce. Sow the seed in January and thin out to 15 inches apart in the rows. Seedlings can also be transplanted in January or February.
Borecole (Kale).— This is a suitable vegetable for the colder districts, for it is never at its best until subjected to a sharp frost. Plants are put out in January or February in well limed ground at 2 feet apart in the rows. Dwarf Green Curled is a good variety.
Broccoli. —Broccoli is really a hardy variety of cauliflower, though there is a distinct difference between the two in the foliage of some varieties. It is very useful, coming in as it does in late autumn, winter, and early spring, thus filling up the gap in the season when cauliflower is not available.
Seed is sown from the middle of September to the middle of November to provide plants for putting out in January and February. Broccoli is usually grown in the soil from which early potatoes have been lifted. The land thus vacated is prepared by forking, liming, and firming. It is important that the soil be well firmed about the roots of the plant. If not manured for the previous crop, the soil should receive a dressing of basic phosphate, 1 oz. to the
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square yard. As the plants require plenty of room in which to develop large heads, they are put out at 2 feet apart with 2J to 3 feet between the rows. Should the weather be dry, it is an advantage to puddle the roots with a mixture of clay and cow manure at the time of planting.
If their permanent position is not available when the plants are ready, instead of allowing them to become overcrowded in the seed bed, they can be transplanted at 6 inches apart each way, in a well-prepared border, from which they can be lifted with a ball of soil when transferred to their permanent positions later on. Varieties to plant are Veitch’s Self Protecting, Early Penzance, Late Queen, and Latest of All.
Dibbling in cabbage or cauliflower plants.
Method of planting cabbage or cauliflower plants in shallow trenches or drills that can be filled with water, for light soils or in dry districts.
Brussels Sprouts.—As Brussels sprouts take a long time to develop good sprouts they should be sown in September, and as soon as ready planted out into their permanent positions. It is essential that the soil should be rich and firmed well. The plants are earthed up during the summer, and in the autumn the old leaves are removed as they ripen. The chief drawback to the cultivation of sprouts is their susceptibility to blight. Spray with insecticide frequently, and never allow the soil to become dry at the roots.
Cabbage.—This is universally cultivated, and provides valuable greens specially useful during late autumn,
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winter, and early spring. Like other brassicas it likes a well manured, liberally limed soil, and an open well-drained position. To provide a succession for summer, autumn, and early winter use seeds are sown from the middle of September to the middle of November. To supply plants to stand through the winter and come into use in the spring and early summer sowings are made during the
A blind cabbage plant is one that lacks a growing point and is therefore useless.
autumn. It is also usual to make a sowing in heat in August, and to treat the plants like half-hardy annuals, planting them out as soon as weather conditions are favourable.
Plant in drills 2 to 3 feet apart, placing the plants 18 inches apart in the rows, lime occasionally, earth up as growth proceeds, and give plenty of water during dry weather and liquid manure occasionally. Varieties to plant are Early York, Sutton’s Flower of Spring, and Blair’s Phenomenal.
Coleworts are small hardy cabbages which are planted in autumn to come in in spring.
Red Cabbage.—This is sown in October and given the same treatment as ordinary cabbage.
Cauliflower.—This is a much appreciated vegetable, especially when well grown. The first plantings in the spring are made from seedlings which have been sown in
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the autumn and wintered in frames, or from those plants which have been sown in August and brought on under glass. Further supplies for succession are obtained from seed sown in the open during September and October. To obtain good cauliflowers bearing good curds, the plants must be grown right on from the seedling to the mature stage without a check of any kind. The soil should be rich and deeply cultivated.
Drills should be made 2 feet apart for the early kinds and 2\ feet for the late kinds, and the plants set in the drills at 18 inches and 2 feet respectively. Varieties to plant are Early London, Walcheren, and Veitch’s Autumn Giant.
Carrots unthinned. First thinning. Final thinning. Thinning carrots. The same method is adopted for parsnips, turnips and onions.
The result: Carrots thinned. Carrots unthinned.
Capsicums or Chillies.—These are tender plants grown for their fruits, which are used in pickles, sauces, etc. Seed is sown in September in boxes, the plants brought on like tomatoes, and planted out on a rich warm sheltered border in November.
Cape Gooseberry.—This plant is cultivated for its fruits, which are suitable for dessert and for jam making. Treat-
Geranium. Single Zonal. Kel way
Orchids (Cypripediums).
Cabbage. Sutton Flower of Spring.
Broccoli. Sutton ’s Satisfaction.
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ment is similar to that recommended for tomatoes, the seed being sown in August and the plants brought on in pots or boxes, and then planted out against a wall or on a sunny border in November. When the plants commence to grow, the tips of the stems are pinched out to cause branching. They require plenty of manure, and water during dry weather. They are sometimes grown in tins like tomatoes. The fruit should not be eaten until perfectly ripe.
Carrot.—Carrots like a light sandy soil which has been well manured for the previous crop. To obtain early roots a few rows of the Shorthorn variety are sown in the spring on a warm border as soon as the soil is fit for working.
How to plant celery. Lettuces planted on the ridges.
For succession, other sowings are made at intervals during September and October, the main crop sowing being made in November. A small sowing of Shorthorn can again be made in February to provide young roots for the autumn.
Sow the seed in drills 16 to 18 inches apart. With early crops first thin the plant out to two inches apart as soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, and then increase the distance as the thinnings are required for use; but the main crop varieties should be thinned out to six inches apart in the first instance.
Early French Horn, Sutton’s Favourite, Chiswick Beauty, and James Scarlet Intermediate are good varieties.
Celery.—This is a vegetable which must be well grown to be of any value. Being a bog plant in nature, it requires plenty of water at all times. Trenches are taken out to a o
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depth of 1 foot to li feet, the soil being packed up evenly on either side. For a single row the trenches are made from 12 to 15 inches wide and from 18 inches to 2 feet for double rows. In the bottom of the trench put at least six inches of well-rotted farmyard manure, and dig this over to mix it with the soil, and then put in about three inches of good loam in which to set out the plants. For
Section of celery trench, showing a root cleared of sprouts at the base and the tie removed, operations that must be attended to before earthing up is completed.
early crops the plants are raised from seed sown in heat in September, and again a month later, the final sowing for the late crops being made in the open in November. In the case of those sown under glass, the seedlings are pricked out into boxes of rich soil and gradually hardened off in preparation for planting in the trenches in November. (For the very earliest supplies it is customary to sow a self-blanching variety, which does not need a trench). When planting lift the plants carefully with a ball of soil attached to their roots, plant them in the prepared trench 9 to 12 inches apart, and water well at once. In late summer or autumn blanching commences, the plants then being well grown. First remove all short leaves and the
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suckers which arise round the base, dust between the plants with lime, and soot, and temporarily tie the leaves loosely together with raffia or soft string. Break up the soil piled up at the sides of the trench, and place it carefully among the plants, working it round the stalks and firming it with the hands. Subsequent moulding up is carried out until all the soil thrown out has been utilised. Finally dig a trench on each side of the row and use this soil for finishing the earthing up, which should be brought to a sharp ridge just under the foliage.
I have tried both brown paper and drain pipes for blanching, but neither is as satisfactory as the soil method. For early use plant Henderson’s White Plume, and for main crop Sutton’s Solid White and Standard Bearer.
Celeriac.—This is a turnip-rooted celery which does not need trenches or blanching, but must have a rich soil. It is raised like celery, and planted out in drills at 12 inches apart in October.
Choko.—This is a perennial climber, a member of the gourd family with a green squash-like fruit. It is very tender, and can be grown only in the far north and in other warm parts of New Zealand. If cut down in winter, it will come away again from the root in the spring. The seed is peculiar in that it germinates while the fruit is still attached to the vine.
Com. Sweet Conn—Sweet or sugar corn is a very fine vegetable, much esteemed in the United States. It requires a rich free soil and a warm climate, but can be grown in the south by sowing the seed in the greenhouse in September, and by bringing on the plants in seed boxes until ready for planting out in November. In the north the seed is sown in drills or rows from October to December to provide a succession. The cobs should be cut when the seed is still in the milky condition, when it makes a most palatable vegetable.
Chicory.—The variety grown for its leaves differs considerably from that grown for its roots, which are used for mixing with coffee. It requires deep rich soil, and
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should be sown in drills 18 inches apart in December. The seedlings are thinned out to 12 inches apart, and during the summer it receives the usual cultural attention. The roots are lifted in May and stored in a box of soil until ready for forcing. They are then packed closely together in light soil in a pot or box, covered up to exclude light, and brought into a warm greenhouse. The leaves are used for salads.
Cress and Mustard.—These members of the crucifer family are grown for their young tender leaves, which are used in salads. Small patches are sown at intervals of a week or so, the soil being made firm and moist, and the seed sown on the surface, pressed into the soil, and covered with a piece of scrim, which is removed as soon as germination takes place. During the winter and early spring supplies are maintained by sowing in boxes.
Cucumber.—This is a valuable but tender plant grown to perfection in a pit or warm greenhouse. There are varieties, however, which can be grown on ridges in the open, in a warm sheltered place. It requires a very rich loose soil, and one composed of one part of well-rotted manure, three parts of roughly chopped up turfy loam, and half a part of sand will be suitable. This is built up into mounds on the greenhouse bench or in the middle of a hot frame, and three or four seeds sown in each. Plants can also be raised in small pots and planted out when a few inches high.
When about a foot long the tip of the stem is pinched out to cause branching, and later on the side growths are pinched at one or two leaves beyond the fruit. When grown in a greenhouse or frame the minimum temperature should be 60 degrees, but it can be raised to over 90 degrees with sun heat. Cucumbers also like plenty of moisture, and in addition to liberal watering with tepid water, the foliage should be syringed twice a day during sunny weather, and the paths and beds can be damped down from time to time. As soon as the roots appear through the soil a light top-dressing can be given, and this is added to from time to time as the roots appear on the surface. To
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grow them in the open, ridges or mounds are made by taking out the soil to a depth of 12 inches, putting in 18 inches of fresh manure and leaves, and covering with six inches of good soil. Put out the seedlings at 20 inches apart on the ridges, and shelter with a handlight or bell glass for a few days at first. Pinch and stop as already described. Varieties to grow are Sutton’s Delicacy, King George, and Tender and True; for ridges Stockwood Ridge and Long Prickly.
Egg Plant.—Although this is a tender plant, if treated like the tomato it will produce fruits which, when properly cooked, are very palatable. It can also be grown under glass, but will be more satisfactory in the far north. New York Purple is a good variety.
Endive.—This need not be extensively cultivated in a country where we can grow lettuce all the year round, but it provides an additional variety. Sowings are made at intervals of three weeks, beginning about the middle of January in drills 12 to 15 inches apart, the seedlings being thinned out to 12 inches apart. Blanching is done by placing an inverted pot, with the drainage hole blocked up, over the plants, or by lifting them with a good ball of soil and placing them in a dark shed or cellar.
Garlic.—This likes a light deep soil and an open sunny position. The cloves are set out in drills 6 inches apart and 2 inches deep, allowing 12 inches between the rows. Planting can take place any time in spring, and the crop can be lifted and dried when ripe.
Herbs.—The herb border may also be considered along with the permanent crops, and even in a small garden this is a very essential part. It need not be large, an average of a square yard allowed for each kind being sufficient to supply the needs of an ordinary household. A narrow border at the foot of a hedge or fence, and beside a path so as to be of easy access in all weathers, would provide sufficient space, but the soil should be deeply trenched and well manured. The herbs in general use are the following:—
Balm is a fragrant perennial shrub with egg-shaped, wrinkled, hairy leaves. It may be propagated from cuttings.
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Chervil.- —This biennial herb has large finely divided parsley-like leaves, with a pleasant scent and flavour. It is best grown from seed.
Chives. —This perennial plant is a member of the onion family, and is useful for flavouring and for salads. The old plants can be broken up in the spring and replanted at 9 to 12 inches apart as an edging for a vegetable plot.
Fennel is a tall perennial herb with a strong scent. The feathery leaves are used as a pot-herb and for garnishing dishes. The plant is easily raised from seed.
Horse-radish is easily grown in most soils, but if allowed to remain in the same position too long the roots become hard and woody. When planting, make holes with a dibber about 12 inches apart, and drop in pieces of root about as thick as the little finger and eight inches long. If the plant is not kept under control it is apt to become as troublesome a weed as the dock.
Marjoram is grown from seed sown in the spring or from old plants broken up.
Mint is an important pot-herb, and when once established is capable of looking after itself. It has thick fleshy roots, which can be separated and replanted any time during the winter. It is better to lift and replant the mint every three or four years.
Parsley is a very important herb and as larger supplies of it are required than of any other, it is better sown or planted as an edging to a path, a fresh sowing or planting being made every spring. The seedlings should be thinned out to 9 inches apart, the thinnings being transplanted if necessary. A supply of young leaves can be secured all the year round.
Sage can be grown from seed or cuttings, but one large plant is sufficient for a family.
Tarragon may also be rooted from cuttings or the old plants can be divided up. It would be well to divide a plant each year.
Thyme is easily rooted from cuttings, or propagated by division of the old roots. The plants are put in at six inches apart.
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Kohl Rabi.—This is grown for its turnip-like stem, which is a good vegetable if used when young and tender. Its cultivation is similar to that of the turnip.
Kumaras.—These are suitable only for the warmer districts, and should be grown on ridges in well manured light sandy soils. They are treated like dahlias. A few shapely tubers are put into a box of soil and placed in heat. The young shoots, which come away in quantities, are taken off with young roots attached if possible, and dibbled into seed boxes of light sandy soil. These soon form quantities of roots, and after being hardened off are planted out at 18 inches apart on ridges, as much of the stem being buried as possible. Dig when mature and store tike potatoes.
Leeka should be deeply planted in rich soil either in open holes or a wide trench which can be gradually filled as growth is made.
Leek.—This is a very valuable vegetable for winter and early spring use. To grow large exhibition leeks they have to be grown in a trench prepared as for celery. Seed is sown in July, and the seedlings brought on in pots or boxes and planted out in October. As growth proceeds, earth up to secure long white stems. Exhibition leeks are sometimes grown in drain pipes or paper collars, these being pulled up as the soil is filled in and as growth proceeds, to secure long white stems. They require frequent applications of liquid manure. For ordinary purposes leeks are grown from seed sown on a rich border in the open in September. In December or January the plants will be fit to put out in well-manured deeply-cultivated ground. Lift the plants, trim their roots and their tops, and place in holes made by a dibber about six inches deep. Do not push soil into
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the holes, but water well, and this will wash down sufficient to cover the roots. As growth develops earth up to secure a longer blanched stem. Varieties to sow are Lyon and Musselburgh.
Lettuce.— This is the most popular of all salading plants, and where possible supplies should be available all the year round. It likes a good rich light soil, and should be grown as quickly as possible to get it tender and crisp.
In dry situations plant lettuces in drills or depressions that will retain water.
Correct method. Wrong method Cos lettuce should be blanched by tying.
To obtain early supplies a few seeds can be sown in boxes and the plants brought on like half hardy annuals and planted out on a warm border as soon as soil conditions are favourable. To maintain supplies a row is sown every three or four weeks. One method is to sow a row, thin out the seedlings as soon as they are large enough to handle to 6 or 9 inches apart, and to transplant some of the thinnings in another row at the same distance apart. Those left undisturbed mature first, and the transplanted ones provide a succession. To provide winter supplies a sowing is made on a warm well drained border in early autumn, and if a frame is available a few can be transplanted into
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it. They can also be grown as a catch crop in the tomato house before the latter are ready to plant out. Of Cos varieties Sutton’s White Heart and Brown Cos are good, and of the cabbage varieties All the Year Round and Luxury are suitable.
Marrows.—See Vegetable Marrows.
Mushrooms.—This succulent fungus is always in demand, and with a little care and no expensive equipment it can be produced quite well during the summer. As it does not require light, it can be grown in a dark cellar, but this
Mushroom culture in a cellar or shed.
is not necessary for it can be grown quite well in the open air. The most important matter is the supply of suitable stable manure. This has to be collected as it is available, and some of the rough straw, but not all, shaken out. It is stored in a dry shed and turned every day until sufficient accumulates, when it is made up into beds or ridges. A bed 2 feet high and 3 feet wide is suitable for indoors, and a ridge 2\ feet high and the same in width will do in the open. Pack the manure up, ramming it tightly, and finish off the surface smoothly with the back of the spade. Test the temperature, and when it has fallen to 80 degrees it is fit for spawning. The spawn is obtained in the form of
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bricks, and these are broken up into pieces the size of a walnut and inserted into the bed about 9 inches apart and 2 inches deep. The spawn will soon commence to run, and then the bed is covered with a layer of 2 inches of good loam, this being made firm. Should the bed be dry, water with tepid water and when it shows signs of exhaustion rest for a month and then water well with tepid water, when it will bear another crop. December is the best month to form a bed in the open, and this is done as already described, except that it is thatched over with about a foot of straw.
Mushroom growing out-of-doors.
A sheltered position near a building or shed is a suitable place for the mushroom bed. The bed can also be made up under the greenhouse stage, or in any old shed.
Okra. —The okra, which belongs to the hibiscus family, is rather tender, but can be grown wherever sweet corn will thrive. The ground should be prepared as for sweet com, and a similar warm, sheltered position selected. Seeds can be sown in spring in pots or boxes, and the seedlings brought on in boxes or small pots like bedding plants. When properly hardened off they are planted out in rows 15 to 18 inches apart. The seed pods, which are formed at the top joints, have to be picked when from three to four inches long and when still young and tender. If left to mature, they become hard and tough, and are of no use as a vegetable.
Onions.—The onion is a popular vegetable with all classes of the community, the young plants being used in salads, and the mature bulbs in various ways. Unlike most
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garden crops, they can be grown in the same ground for several years, provided it is well manured and deeply dug in the autumn. In the spring, give the bed a good dusting of wood ashes, soot and lime, all of which should be worked in to a depth of six inches. Make the surface reasonably level, firm by rolling or tramping, and then finish off the top-soil fine and level with the rake. Onions are usually grown in beds, which should be not more than five or six feet in width, so that weeding can be done from both sides without injury to the plants. Draw shallow drills 10 inches apart, sow the seed thinly, cover with some fine soil, and
Onion tops should be bent over to hasten ripening
make firm and smooth. Immediately the young plants peep above the ground, apply to the bed a good dusting of soot. This can be repeated weekly throughout the season of growth. The surface soil between the rows should also be frequently stirred with the scuffle hoe, once or twice a week being none too often.
To provide exhibition bulbs the onion is often treated as a half-hardy annual. The seed is sown in boxes of light rich soil, and when the seedlings are about half an inch high, they are pricked out in other boxes which are well crocked with rotted manure, the soil also being richer than for seed sowing. They are pricked out at about three inches apart each way so that each plant may be lifted with a good ball of soil, when being planted out in its permanent position. They are grown on gradually in the warm greenhouse near the glass to prevent drawing, and when well grown they are gradually hardened off in a cold frame, and planted out near the middle of October.
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Selected stock of Ailsa Craig is the best for exhibition, but for ordinary purposes Cranston’s Excelsior, James’s Keeping, and Brown Spanish are quite good. Autumn sown onions are usually transplanted in the spring to beds prepared as described for seed sowing. Rows are marked out 12 inches apart, the seedlings are lifted carefully, the roots and tops are trimmed a little, and they are then planted with a trowel, at from six to nine inches apart, keeping the base of the stem just under the ground. Make firm and water in, and continue the cultivation as
Storing onions in a scrim bag hung in a cool, airy, dry shed.
described for those raised from seed in the spring. Autumn sown onions mature earlier than those sown in the spring, and where there are no facilities for raising the seedlings under glass, this will be the best method of growing bulbs for the earlier shows.
Parsley.—See Herbs.
Parsnip.—This is one of the most useful winter root vegetables, and as it takes a long time to develop and is best when it has experienced a little frost, it should be sown in September in deep soil that has been well manured the previous year. Allow 2 feet between the rows, and thin out the seedlings to 10 or 12 inches apart. If the soil or subsoil
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is a heavy clay, it is better to prepare holes with the crowbar 3 feet deep and 6 inches wide at the top; fill these with good soil and sow a few seeds on top of each. The roots can be dug as required for use, or they can be lifted and stored in sand or soil. Hollow Crown and Student are good varieties.
Growing parsnips for exhibition in holes filled with specially prepared soil.
Peas (Pisum sativum) are a member of the Natural Order Leguminosae. They are annual plants probably indigenous to Central Europe or the mountains of Western Asia. They are perfectly hardy and come through the winter in the open with just a little protection. The pea and all its tribe are among the most nutritious of all crops grown in the garden, having a high nitrogenous content, and being rich in proteids and albuminoids. They contain as much as 20 per cent, of this valuable nutritive substance, compared with two per cent, in potatoes and one per cent, in turnips.
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The pea has a hollow stem and requires support of some kind. To help it to climb, the end of the leaf is developed into a tendril which lays hold of and clings to any material such as twiggy branches or wire-netting. There are two distinct types, the round seeded, and the wrinkled, the latter being the more popular except for the very early crops. There are also three divisions, dwarf, medium and tall, the dwarf being most suitable for autumn sowing, the medium for first sowing in the open, and the tall for the main crop. Some people grow only the semi-dwarf and dwarf kinds, because of the difficulty in obtaining stakes, but the extra crops obtained from the
How to sow peas in a shallow trench. (For early sowing use a trench that has just previously been occupied by celery.)
tall kinds justify some expenditure, and, after all, broom or manuka scrub is not hard to obtain, and failing either of these wire-netting may be used. The earliest crop is usually obtained from the autumn sown kinds, and the second from plants raised under glass either in a cold frame or heated greenhouse. These may be sown in strips of turf, and planted out with little disturbance, or they may be sown in three inch pots or boxes and transplanted out singly in rows in the spring when the weather is favourable. An excellent way is to sow three or four seeds in three inch pots, cover with light soil and stand on a bed of ashes in a cold frame about two feet deep and covered with a good sash. The seeds soon germinate, and if ventilated whenever weather conditions are favourable, they make nice dwarf sturdy growth, and can be planted out in early spring, in rows at from 6to 9 inches apart. When sown in boxes or round the edge of an eight inch pot, the plants are lifted individually with as little root disturbance as
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possible, and planted with a flat trowel at about three inch intervals in double rows, from four to six inches apart. Newly-planted peas should be staked at once, not so much to provide them with support, as to protect them from the cold, cutting winds which prevail in spring, and also from birds. The first sowing in the open can be made in July, on a warm, sunny, well-drained border, and to provide a succession, sowings are made at intervals of a fortnight right on to Christmas.
A simple method of supporting peas. Cord is to be preferred to wire.
Peas, like all other vegetable crops, do best on land which has been well manured in the autumn and dug over roughly to expose as much of the soil as possible to the winter frosts. When preparing for sowing give the plot a good dusting of lime and superphosphates, and fork it over, making the surface fine. With the flat of the draw hoe or a spade, take out a wide drill about two and a half inches to three inches deep, and sow the seeds thinly and evenly, allowing two inches between each seed for tall varieties. Most amateurs make the mistake of sowing too thickly, and though they may have more plants, they do not get as many pods as when the plants have room to develop.
Where the soil is very light and gravelly, it will be an advantage to take out a trench to a depth of 18 inches. Put in six inches of well-rotted manure, six inches of good turfy loam, if available, and mix the two together. Give a dusting of lime and superphosphate and put back a little of the
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original soil to sow on, and cover. This may seem a great deal of trouble, but green peas are such a desirable vegetable during summer, that no trouble is too great to obtain regular and abundant supplies. Should mice be troublesome, protect the seeds with a coating of red lead, and to protect them from birds cover with wire-netting or stretch black cotton along the rows. Varieties to sow for early gathering, are William Hurst, English Wonder, and Reading Gem; second sowing, medium growers, Thomas Laxton and World’s Record; second sowing, tall growers, Duke of Albany, Telegraph, Sutton’s V.C., and Sutton’s Dwarf Defiance; third sowing and main crop, Yorkshire
Sprouting early potatoes in a warm light place preparatory to planting.
Hero, Fillbasket, and Sutton’s Best of All. Dwarf Defiance, if sown at intervals, would provide a succession of good pods, and the peas have a good flavour.
Potatoes.—Though I do not recommend the general planting of potatoes in a small town garden, it is advisable to put in a few rows of early and second early kinds, which come in when supplies are scarce. Another advantage in planting early kinds is that by getting them dug early, the place they occupied becomes available for cabbage, savoys, broccoli, and other winter and early spring crops.
Potatoes are also excellent crops for breaking up new ground; the after-cultivation they require improves the
Brussels Sprouts. Sutton ’s Exhibition.
Carrot. Sutton’s Favourite.
French Bean. Sutton’s Dwarf Forcing.
Lettuce. Sutton’s White Heart.
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soil, and the overgrowth of the tops or shaws completely covers the ground and assists to smother weeds, both annual and perennial. Those who have a weedy lawn or one eaten out by grubs, would be well advised to dig it up and take off a crop of potatoes, which could be lifted in time to allow for sowing down in grass again in the autumn.
Land intended for the earliest spring sowing or planting is better left untouched until just before it is required. That which has been dug or trenched early absorbs more moisture than uncultivated ground does, and consequently is often too wet for planting until later on. The area required should be dug over, and at the same time a dressing of well-rotted stable manure or compost heap should be worked in. The soil should then be broken down with a fork and made reasonably level with the rake. During this operation a good dressing of lime and wood ashes should be worked into the surface soil.
A complete manure for potatoes would be: —rate per square rod, H cwt. of farmyard manure dug in and then 1 lb. of nitrate of soda, 3 lb. superphosphate, 1 lb. of muriate of potash worked into the surface or sown in drills with the potatoes. Those who do not want to go to the trouble of mixing these fertilisers could apply 5 lb. of approved potato manure as well as the farmyard manure.
As a rule, however, garden soil is fairly rich in organic matter, and the quantity of artificial manure recommended should be sufficient.
The distance between the rows and between the sets will differ according to the variety to be grown, but as a rule with early kinds, which are to be dug when quite green, 20 inches between the rows and 12 inches between the sets will be sufficient space; second early kinds should be 24 inches between the rows and 15 inches between the sets; and main crop kinds 27 inches between the rows and 16 inches between the sets.
There are several ways of planting, but when sprouted sets are used (they should always be obtained for early planting) the trowel is most suitable. The advantages of sprouted sets are various, but a few are:—One knows whether the set is going to produce a satisfactory shoot
p
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or not, and consequently there are no blanks; the best shoot is produced from the top and by setting them up on end this is retained; the shoots can be reduced to three, which is quite enough for one plant; and if the soil is wet and the weather unsuitable, planting can be delayed for a week or so, the sets making satisfactory growth in the trays in the meantime.
The trench method of planting early potatoes,
Planting. —Set the line at the desired distance between the rows; make a hole about five inches deep, and wide enough to allow the sets to drop in easily; put in the set with the shoot upward, and fill in with fine loose soil. Another method which always seems a lot of unnecessary
First hoeing up of potatoes.
work to me, is to take out a drill with a hoe or spade about five inches deep, plant the sets at the desired distance apart in the bottom of it, and then pull all the soil back in again. There is always the danger of injuring sprouted sets by this method. Sprouted sets do not take very long to come up, and as there is often a danger that the early shoots will be cut
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down by late frosts, it is an advantage to place some pieces of twiggy scrub such as manuka, on top of the rows until all danger is past. Should they be touched by frost at any time, they may be saved by watering the sprouts with cold water, and shading them with paper, straw, or scrub for
Potatoes should be dug from the sides of the ridges and not from the ends.
a few hours. This must be done before the sun touches them, for it is the thawing, not the freezing which destroys the tissues. This refers to mild frosts only. In some old gardens where the soil is inclined to be a bit sour, the skins of the tubers become destroyed and warty.
Section of pit or clamp for storing potatoes.
This, although not harming the tubers, detracts from their appearance, and renders them more difficult to scrape when young. This defect can be avoided by taking out a fairly deep and wide drill, lining it with dry grass, straw, or pine needles, planting the sets among this, and covering them up in the usual way. The materials mentioned keep the
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soil from coming in contact with the young tubers, which lift out quite clean.
Varieties to plant for first early are Epicure, a fairly coarse potato with deep eyes, but this does not matter when they are dug green; Ashleaf Kidney, if it can be obtained true; Sharp’s Express; Snowdrop, and Jersey Bennes.
Second early kinds are King Edward, Sutton’s Abundance, Great Scot, British Queen, Sutton’s Supreme, and Up-to-Date. The last-named can also be grown as a late crop.
Main crop varieties are Arran Chief, Up-to-Date, Golden Wonder, Kerr’s Pink, White City, and Glasgow Favourite.
Growers are often troubled by the sets not rotting in the ground, but this should not make any difference to the crop except that the decaying tuber furnishes manure for the roots. To make sure that the tuber will decay, however, it is better to cut a little piece off the end when it is being put into the ground.
Pumpkin.—There is quite a large variety of edible gourds, but the pumpkin is probably the best known. It likes a rich moist soil and plenty of sunshine, and can be planted on mounds or ridges prepared as described for ridge cucumbers. Seeds can be sown under a handlight in the open, or in pots, and the plants put out when all danger of frost is past. Being a strong grower requiring plenty of room, each plant should be given a space of six feet. Fruits can be collected and stored for the winter.
Radishes.—Radishes, which are of easy culture, are usually grown as a catch crop among other slow maturing vegetables, or in a handy border near a path or under fruit trees. As they must be grown quickly, a well manured soil is the most suitable, and as the roots are useful only when they are young and tender, sowings should be made at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks. The seed may be sown thinly in drills or may be sown broadcast on prepared beds. Good varieties to grow are French Breakfast and White Icicle.
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Rhubarb.—Rhubarb can also be considered as a permanent crop, and though it will continue to grow and produce numbers of leaves it is better lifted, divided up and replanted every five years. As it takes about 12 months to
How to plant rhubarb roots.
become firmly established, it is not advisable to pull any leaves the first year after planting. The plot should be divided into two sections, thus allowing one portion to be replanted every three or four years. Where there is a larger plot, it can be divided into five sections, one of
Forcing rhubarb in early spring.
them being replanted every year. It is then possible to use for forcing those surplus roots not required for replanting the plot. When renewing the plots, the roots are lifted with a fork and left exposed to the weather until required, when they are split up with the spade, so that
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each division has one crown or bud, which at the time of planting will be plainly visible. If plenty of ground is available the roots are planted in rows four feet apart, and four feet is allowed between the plants in the rows, but where space is limited intervals of three feet and two feet respectively will do. Plant with the crowns just a few inches below the soil, and mark the position of each with a stick so that lettuce or spinach may be sown as a catch crop until the leaves appear. To keep the roots in good order it is necessary to give manure and water in abundance.
Stalks of giant rhubarb.
Superphosphate, sulphate of iron, sulphate of potash, and guano are all suitable fertilisers. All flower stalks should be broken off as they appear, to prevent seeding. Mitchell’s Early Albert, Myatt’s Victoria, Linnaeus, Hogan’s Shillelah, and Topp’s Improved Winter are all prolific kinds; the last-named is particularly valuable for producing stalks for winter use.
Salsify and Scorzonera.—These plants require similar conditions to parsnips and long beet and like an open sunny position. Sow the seed in November in drills 1 inch deep and 15 inches apart. When large enough to handle, thin
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out to 9 to 12 inches apart, and when lifting in the autumn or winter, take care not to damage the roots or they will bleed badly.
Savoy.—The savoy is like a winter cabbage with crinkly leaves, and being perfectly hardy it is suitable for winter use in the colder districts. Seeds are sown in October, and the plants put out in their permanent positions in January or February. Treatment is the same as for cabbage and broccoli. Sutton’s New Year and Dwarf Green Curled are good varieties.
A—Boot of seakale (piece for cutting CD). B —Cutting made C —Top. D—Bottom.
How to force seakale (or chicory) in a dark box in a warm shed.
Seakale is a vegetable very easy to grow, especially near the coast. It is very hardy and not at all difficult to accommodate in any kind of soil, provided it is deeply cultivated and heavily manured. Where there are plenty
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of good, strong roots, a few can be lifted and forced in a similar way to rhubarb. Trim off weak pieces and pack the strong roots with the crowns on the surface in boxes or pots of light soil, cover over with a box or large pot and exclude light with sacks. Place under the stage in the greenhouse, but not too close to the hot water pipes, for seakale should not be subjected to a temperature over 55 degrees. Crowns which are lifted for forcing are of no further use, and can be thrown away, but some of the medium-sized roots should be saved for planting and these are prepared by cutting the top end straight across and the bottom one at an angle. This is necessary to indicate which end to plant uppermost.
Seakale can be forced quite well in the open by inverting boxes or pots over the crowns or using proper seakale pots, which have movable covers, then building up round them a heap of fresh manure and leaves in equal proportions. To keep this material in position, it is better to put a plank along each side of the row and fasten it with stakes driven in on the outside. If it is desirable to obtain a succession of heads, it is better to vary the amount of leaves in the covering, beginning with half and half at one end and finishing with almost pure leaves at the other. The heat from the manure will force on the crowns, but at the leaf end there will be little forcing, the leaves merely excluding the light and the cold.
Shallots.—Although botanically very closely allied to the onion, the shallot in its manner of growth is very different from its relative. It is a plant which seldom produces seed, but has a profusion of leaves. Its bulbs when planted in spring, divide into a great number of cloves, which remain attached to a common disc, and in a few months become as strong as the parent bulb.
Like the onion, the shallot can be grown for several years in the same ground, provided it is well manured with wellrotted stable manure. About August the soil intended for shallots, can be broken down with a fork and made reasonably level and fine with a rake, marked out with a line, and the bulbs pressed in about 6 to 10 inches apart, and 12 inches between the rows. Shallots, although perfectly
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hardy, are better planted on a sunny border where they will ripen properly. During their period of growth they require weeding and hoeing, and by midsummer they are ready for lifting. Pull them up and lay them in trays in a sunny dry position so that they may be thoroughly dried before storing. Turn them over frequently, and when dry store in a cool, dry, airy shed.
Silver Beet.—See Beet (Silver).
Planting tomato in a tin or box. A —Space for top-dressing. B—Compost. C—Rough material. D—Drainage.
Spinach.—This is a valuable crop on account of its medicinal properties, and because it becomes available quickly. On this account it is often treated as a catch crop, and is sown near others of a more permanent nature, such as peas and beans. The Bound or Summer spinach is sown in drills 1J inches deep, the first sowing being made on a warm border as soon as the soil can be worked, and others made for succession at intervals of 2 or 3 weeks. By sowing thinly it is not necessary to thin out the plants,
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which are cut over before they show signs of going to seed. For winter use the prickly seeded kind is sown in the autumn, but there are now strains of the round-seeded variety which are quite hardy. There is a native plant (Tetragonia expansa, or New Zealand Spinach) which can be used as spinach, it being useful for hot, dry climates. There is also a plant called Orach which is used as spinach, both the red-leaved and green-leaved varieties being good.
Tomato plant recklessly Tomato plant correctly defoliated. defoliated.
Tomato.—lt is not so very long ago since this plant was grown in the greenhouse for its ornamental fruit; now it is most extensively grown for food both under glass and in the open air. To get supplies during winter and early spring, a heated structure is necessary, but in the ordinary course of events very good crops can be grown in a cold house or in one heated by electricity. To obtain good plants seed should be sown in heat in August and the seedlings pricked oif into seed boxes as soon as large enough to handle. Later on the plants can be potted up into 4 inch pots and again into 6 inch size, in which they will develop into good plants ready to plant out in the
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tomato house in October or outside in November. They can be grown in tins or planted in the border. The former saves soil, but the latter gives least trouble. The soil, which should be sterilised if possible, consists of turfy loam
Training tomatoes.
Out-of-door tomato frame, in which to raise an early crop.
three parts, well-rotted manure and leaf mould one part, and half a part of sand and lime rubble. If available two six-inch potfuls of wood ashes can be added to each barrowload of the mixture. Provide plenty of drainage, and whether in tins or in the border, plant firmly to secure short jointed sturdy growth. If the soil is too rich in
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available plant food, too wet, or too cold, the first buds will drop withont setting fruit. Tomatoes like a buoyant dry atmosphere with plenty of sunshine, and great care has to be taken not to overwater and not to create a damp atmosphere. When the first two bunches of fruit have set, a topdressing of soil similar to the original, to which a 6 inch potful of superphosphate and one of sulphate of potash have been added, can be given. All side shoots should be pinched out, and the plants stopped after they have set five bunches.
Sow marrow seed as shown.
Marrow flowers: A—Male Flower. B—Bud of fruit or female flower. A similar distinction appears in cucumbers.
When grown in the open they can be allowed to sprawl over mounds, but are better when kept to one stem and staked. Should leaf disease appear, spray with summer Bordeaux mixture occasionally.
Turnips.—Ground for turnips should be well cultivated, well limed, and top-dressed with superphosphate. For very early supplies, a white variety is sown in drills 12 inches apart and thinned out to 6 inches; for summer crop the variety Golden Ball is sown in rows 15 inches apart and thinned out to 9 inches; and for winter use Laing’s Garden Swede should be sown in December in drills 18 inches apart, and thinned out to 9 inches. Turnips are very easy to
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grow in soil free from club root, and several sowings should be made to provide a succession.
Vegetable Marrow. —Directions for growing pumpkins will apply to the vegetable marrow, which can be sown in a frame on a gentle hotbed, or on well-manured mounds in the open. The fruits should be picked when quite young for immediate use, but should be allowed to ripen when required for storing. Give plenty of water and liquid manure during dry weather.
THE FRUIT GARDEN
The fruit garden should occupy a position that is warm, well sheltered, and well drained, with a sandy loam if there is any choice of soil. Thorough preparation of the
Quincunx system of planting trees in an orchard.
soil in the first place is most important, and for the commercial orchard, if the area is in grass, it is better to skim plough the surface to a depth of four inches, the turf being turned into the bottom of the furrow. A second furrow of about 12 inches, if possible, is turned over on top of this, and the bottom of the trench is then broken up with the digger. If the land is fallow, deep ploughing followed by the digger will be sufficient. The aim should be
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to stir the soil to a depth of two feet and to break it up with the cultivator and harrows before any planting is done. In the small town garden trenching takes the place of ploughing. If, however, the subsoil is not good, bastard trenching should be adopted. If this operation can be carried out a year before planting and a crop of potatoes taken off so much the better. Further cropping with shallow rooting vegetables will not do any harm until after the trees or bushes which have been planted require all the space. On a hillside too steep for cultivation, holes can be made 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep, the bottom broken up with a pick and an outlet made for water. Although in a very small garden there may not be room for fruit trees, there should at least be sufficient space for some gooseberry and currant bushes. A few raspberry canes and fruit trees should be trained on any walls and fences which are available.
Forms of Fruit Trees.
There are several forms into which fruit trees can be pruned and trained.
Standard trees, which may be any height up to 20 feet or more, have a clean stem for a height of 5 to 6 feet before branching takes place, and are suitable for grass orchards or where there is plenty of room. They are not the best type of tree to grow, either for commercial orchards or in the fruit garden.
Bush trees are more suitable, for they can be kept within reasonable compass by pruning; they are easier to spray; it is easier to hand pick the fruit; and a larger number and a greater variety of trees can be accommodated. A bush tree will have a stem of about 2 to 3 feet, from which will arise from 6 to 9 or more branches, each growing outwards as it grows upwards, with plenty of room between to allow light and air to reach every part of the tree. Such trees are often grafted or budded on dwarfing stocks, which render pruning much easier.
Fan-shaped trees. —For growing peaches and apricots on walls or fences fan-shaped trees are preferable, and they are really like a bnsh tree flattened out to one plane.
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The trees have three branches near the base, and these increase in number as the head widens out, but there should always be plenty of room for the fruit and the young growth to develop.
Espalier.—Apples or pears may be conveniently trained on open fences where light can penetrate to the growth on all sides. An espalier consists of a main stem with branches growing off horizontally to right and left at regular intervals. Such a tree is built up gradually, two branches being added each year.
Fan-trained tree
Oblique cordons.
Espalier.
Cordons.—These may consist of one, two, or more branches which rise from near the ground level, and are trained upright or at an angle. They are quite suitable for apples or pears, or for currants and gooseberries trained on walls or fences.
Whichever method of training is adopted, good healthy well grown trees with a good root system should he selected; these may be two, three, or more years old, the larger trees being selected when only a few are required. When selecting varieties, consideration should be given to those that are growing satisfactorily in the district, and while a number of varieties may be permissible in the private
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orchard to provide a succession, the commercial orchards should be limited to good well tried and popular kinds. Order early, and if possible select your own trees in the nursery.
Planting. —When the soil has been well cultivated in preparation, it is not necessary to make holes bigger than
A setting-board for use in tree-planting.
is required to allow the roots to go in without bending or twisting. Do not allow the roots to be exposed any more than is necessary, and prune any broken or bruised ones with a sharp knife. The depth to plant will be indicated by the soil mark on the stem, which is the depth at which the trees were growing in the nursery, and never plant any deeper. Roots naturally tend to grow downwards,
Bark ringing by half-circles to check over-vigorous fruit tree growth.
and deep planting is a mistake. First throw in some soil, building up a mound in the centre on which the base of the tree can rest. Spread out the roots evenly all round and throw in some fine clean soil which is worked in among the fibrous roots by shaking the tree. Put in more soil and again shake, and when the roots are completely covered, tramp the soil firmly all round the side of the hole, pressing it against the roots, but do not tramp round the stem.
Sutton’s Table Dainty Marrow.
Mushrooms. Carter d Sons, Ltd.. Loudon
Pumpkins from one plant. Iroubark. Grown in *‘Nitre’ ’ soil.
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Continue to fill in and tramp until the hole is completely filled, and finish off the surface level and not too fine. Should staking be required, put the stake in position before planting and secure the tree to it with soft rope or strong twine.
Autumn is the best time for planting, and as soon as the leaves ripen, even though they may not have fallen, will do. The roots have then a chance to heal up and form root hairs before the soil is cooled by winter rains, and the trees are ready to begin growth in the spring. Deciduous trees and bushes can be planted at any time during the autumn, winter, or spring, so long as the soil is in good working condition, but evergreens are better planted in early autumn or late spring.
Pruning.—-This varies with the different kinds of trees or bushes, but is usually carried out to limit the size of the specimen to fit its surroundings, to render it more fruitful, to allow light and air to get to all parts, to secure the ripening of the wood and the fruit, to remove any dead or decaying branches, and to maintain a reasonable shape.
Fruit trees or bushes bear their fruit either on little arrested branches called spurs, which arise on the old branches, on the young wood which was formed the previous year, or on the young growths of the current year. This determines the method of pruning, and when dealing with trees like apples and pears, which bear their fruit on spurs, all lateral or side branches are cut back to half an inch from the old wood and the branches are extended as desired by leaving a suitable length of young wood at the end. In every case prune to a bud pointing away from the centre of the tree, or in the direction in which the branch is required to grow. When dealing with trees such as peaches and bushes like black currants, a sufficient quantity of young wood has to be left, and space has to be provided for this by removing a number of the older branches altogether, and by reducing the number of young ones. With vines which bear on the young wood, reduce the dormant buds to one or two on each spur and limit the number of shoots.
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When pruning, take care to have sharp clean tools, to make clean cuts, and tar over the cut surfaces of branches of any size.
Eoot priming a tree that is being transplanted.
Root pruning of fruit trees.
Summer Pruning.—This is usually carried out to reduce the amount of foliage so that light may get in to ripen the fruit, to throw the vigour of the plants into the growths which are left, and to ripen the wood and develop flowering buds for the next season.
Root Pruning'.—Some trees make far too much young wood and fail to form fruit spurs, and what is required to rectify this is a cheek of some kind. This is usually given by cutting the roots. Dig a trench all round from 2 to 3 feet from the stem according to the size of the tree, and when 2 feet deep dig under, cutting all roots during the process. The tree can then be turned over first on one side and then on the other, all roots being cut with a sharp knife. Set the tree upright again, and return the soil, gradually ramming it firmly as it is put in. This will cheek the development of young wood and bring about the formation of spurs.
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A brief description of the principal fruits grown in New Zealand follows:
Almond.—ln addition to bearing nuts, the almond, which will thrive in most districts, is a suitable decorative tree for the shrubbery, because of its early and ornamental flowers.
Varieties—Early Jordan, Paper Shell, and Nonpareil,
Apple.—The apple, which has been called the king of hardy fruits, should be planted wherever space will permit. When forming young trees, it is as well to
Result of summer priming. A—Fruit spurs formed by shortening laterals at X.
Apple tree buds. F—Fruit buds. FS—Spur. W—Wood buds.
remember not to leave too much young wood the first few years, but gradually to build up a shapely specimen, beginning first with three branches, next year retaining six, and the following year 9 or 12. The apple bears its fruit on spurs distributed along the old branches, and the aim should be to get these branches to produce fruit along their full length. Though it is not advisable to allow young trees to bear too heavily, a few fruits will not do any harm, provided the bushes are making satisfactory growth. Apples will thrive in most soils, but prefer one that is not too heavy, that is well drained, and in an open sunny
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position sheltered from south-west winds. In the domestic orchard, where space is limited, it is more satisfactory to grow early varieties, and to buy later supplies when fruit from the commercial orchard comes on to the market. Apples should be carefully picked and stored in trays or boxes in a dry cool shed. For dessert purposes plant Irish Peach, Jonathan, Cox’s Orange, Scarlet Nonpareil, and Sturmer. For cooking, Ballarat Seedling, Peasgood’s Nonsuch, Bismarck. Alfriston, Reinette du Canada.
A cabinet with trays for storing fruit.
Apricot.—This is a delicious fruit suitable for bush cultivation where it does well, but it will succeed when trained against a wall or fence in most localities if given a warm position. The fruit is borne on spurs and also on one year old shoots, and therefore the method of pruning is similar to that practised on the apple and on the peach. Thinning
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is necessary in cases where the trees set more fruit than it is advisable for their well-being to retain. Summer pruning is often practised, in which ease the lateral shoots are shortened back to half their length.
Moorpark and Early Improved are both good varieties.
Blackberry and Loganberry.-—These fruits are both very useful, and though it is possible to gather wild blackberries, they are not to be compared with the cultivated ones for size and attractiveness. Both kinds bear their
Root pruning a fruit tree. Do not sever the fibrous surface roots, but cut all others. If this treatment is too drastic prune half one winter and the rest a year later.
fruit on young well-ripened shoots of the previous year’s growth, and when pruning, all the old canes can be cut away to make room for the selected young ones, which should have their unripened tips removed. After pruning, tie the canes up in a fan-shaped manner to an open fence or trellis, or train them over a heap of stones or a stone wall. They are propagated by layering the tips of the stems.
Cherry.—This hardy fruit, being one of the first to ripen, is of considerable value. It will grow in most soils, but unless it is grown in a wire netting cherry house or protected in some way, little fruit can be expected owing to the depredations of birds. Such a structure is expensive to begin with, but it not only protects the fruit from birds, but it also protects to some extent the flowers and young growths from late frosts. The sweet cherry bears its
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fruit on spurs like the apple, and a similar system of pruning is advocated. The Morello or Cooking cherry is quite a different tree, and it bears its fruit on the young ripened growths of the previous year like the peach. As it will grow in the shade, it is usually planted to cover a
Completely headed at planting.
First summer growth.
First winter pruning.
Second summer growth. Second winter pruning. Third summer growth. , This should be cut back in the (Bulletin, Dept, of Agric., N.S.W.) third winter pruning as indicated by small lines. Building framework of a typical fruit tree (peach) by pruning.
south wall, in which position it can be readily protected from birds with nets.
Yarieties—Early Purple Guigne, Early Rivers, Black Elton, Black Napoleon, Bedford Prolific, and Noble.
Chinese Gooseberry {Actinidia chinensis). —This is a rampant climbing plant with hairy leaves and stems, suitable for growing over a trellis or a rustic fence. Being dioe-
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cious it is necessary to have the two sexes on separate plants or grafted on to one plant. It bears a fruit about the size of a small passion fruit, covered with brown hairs, and has the flavour of a gooseberry. It would be a good plant to grow in districts where gooseberries are not a success owing to the heat.
Citrus Fruits.—The various members of the citrus fruit family are much hardier than many people imagine, and if a sheltered position is selected it is possible to ripen lemons as far south as Dunedin. They prefer a rather light soil which has been well and deeply cultivated and well manured. The trees are very ornamental both in foliage and flowers, and fruit, and make good lawn specimens, fruiting freely when a circular space round the stem six feet in diameter is kept cultivated and manured. They can be grown commercially in many parts of New Zealand, and as they are every bit as valuable from a health point of view as the apple, their cultivation should be encouraged.
They require little or no pruning except to open up the centres of the trees, remove dead or decaying branches, and maintain a reasonable shape. All cuts of any size should be painted with tar. They will not stand drought, and in dry districts should be well watered or mulched during the summer and autumn. Shelter can be provided by such trees as the tall growing bamboos, Hakea saligna, and if space is available, gums and Lawson’s cypress.
Grape Fruit. —This name is given to this member of the citrus family because the fruit is borne in clusters at the ends of the branches like a bunch of grapes. It is a fruit which is highly esteemed in the United States and the tropics, and should be popular in this country if produced at a reasonable rate. Small trees four to five years old bear heavily, and if well-manured they continue to be prolific. It is important to have the best grafted or budded kinds grown on the right kind of stock. Varieties—Marsh’s Seedless and Poorman.
Lemon. —This is almost an essential fruit, and while rough, coarse, thick-skinned kinds are fairly common and are found in many places, the smooth, thin-skinned varie-
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ties are not so easily procured. The budded kinds are no more difficult to grow than common seedlings, and when properly cured New Zealand lemons should be as good as those from any other country. They are in flower and bear fruit all the year round.
Varieties—Meyer, Eureka, Ponderosa, Lisbon.
• y 1 ~ 7 —• Orange. —Oranges of the best quality can also be grown in this country, and as the trees are fairly hardy, they should be extensively planted in the north and in selected positions in the south.
Like the lemon and grape fruit, the orange is very ornamental, and deserves the best cultivation, manuring, and attention it is possible to give it.
Varieties—Parramatta, Late Valencia, Washington Navel, Leu Gin Gong.
Cuttings. 1. Currant. Buds to be left at A, heel of old wood at B. 2. Gooseberry. Buds at C to be removed.
Currants, Red and White.—These are very useful bush fruits which can be grown in a cool moist part of the garden where fruit trees would not succeed. Both kinds bear their fruit on little spurs on the old wood. Like the apple, each bush is built up gradually by adding 9 to 12 inches of new wood to the branches each year, until it reaches its maximum growth, when it can be renewed by cutting out whole branches and replacing them with young
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ones grown up from the centre of the bush. Young plants are put out at 6 feet apart each way in well-manured ground. As cun-ant and gooseberry bushes are easily raised from cuttings, it is a good idea to plant at 3 or 4 feet apart each way, and then to cut away every second plant and every second row when they become overcrowded.
Winter pruning of red currants. A—Spurs given previous pruning. B—Side shoots to be pruned. O—Shorter leader.
Varieties.—Red: Fay’s Prolific, Raby Castle, Red Dutch, White: Dutch and Transparent.
Currants, Black—These are quite distinct from the red and white kinds, and bear their fruit on the young wood of the previous year’s growth. They are therefore pruned lightly by simply thinning out weak growths and cutting off the unripened tips of the main branches, which are otherwise left almost to their full length. Old branches are cut right out from time to time, their places being taken by young sucker-like growths from the base of the bush. Black
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currants grow quite well in a cool moist position, and may be trained as cordons on a shady wall or fence. Currants of all kinds should be protected from the ravages of birds, with nets or by a permanent wire netting structure. Surplus shoots can be cut out and lateral ones shortened back during summer pruning.
Black currant.
Red currant,
Gooseberry. Pruning of bush fruits.
Varieties —Carter’s Black Champion, Boskoop Giant and Black Naples.
Fig.—The fig requires a warm, sunny, well-drained position, but can be fruited quite well in the south when planted in a sunny border at the foot of a wall or close fence. In favourable climates it produces 2or 3 crops a year, but in cooler conditions only one can be expected. The fruits, which set in the autumn and develop to the
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size of a pea, remain in this state during the winter, and develop and ripen the following season. With the fig the main pruning consists of thinning out the stems and shortening back long unripened shoots.
Varieties—Brown Turkey and White Adriatic.
Gooseberry.—This is really the most valuable of all hardy bush fruits, for not only will it grow and fruit almost anywhere, even when neglected, but the fruit can be made use of for cooking and bottling purposes from the time it is large enough to pick until fully ripe, when it is a very delicious dessert fruit. To get the best results, it
Gooseberry cuttings consisting of ripe wood from which the lower buds have been removed are firmly planted in narrow trenches lined with sand or grit.
should be planted in well-manured light loam and in an open sunny position where the wood and the fruit will ripen. It bears its fruit both on little spur-like growths on the old wood, and also on well-ripened young wood. As the best fruit is borne on the young wood, a system of pruning whereby young growth is retained to a considerable length and the old wood so thinned out that the fruit borne on it will develop, is advisable. Whole branches are cut out from time to time to be replaced by young shoots grown up from near the centre of the bush. In summer the lateral growths are pinched back to three or four leaves and excessive young growths thinned out. In autumn or winter the laterals are cut back to near the old wood, and the unripened tips of the young shoots shortened back. Those with a drooping habit are pruned to a bud pointing
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upwards, and the upright ones to a bud pointing outwards. Of course, dead, decaying, and badly placed branches are cut right out. As many bushes are spoilt through excessive pruning, the amateur should understand that gooseberries can be allowed to grow until they occupy their allotted space, which may be 6 feet by 6 feet or 8 feet by 8 feet as the case may be. As they are so easily grown from cuttings and soon reach the bearing stage, it is a mistake to retain old decrepit worn-out bushes.
Gooseberries are also very satisfactory when trained as cordons on a south wall, and the fruiting season is lengthened by this method of cultivation.
Varieties —Whinham’s Industry, Crown Bob, Warrington, Telegraph, Antagonist, Dan’s Mistake, Lion’s Provider. For dessert: Early Sulphur, Golden Drop, Whitesmith, Broom Girl, and Ironmonger.
Guava.—This is a small evergreen tropical bush which fruits quite well in the warmer districts. It requires a free loamy soil, and should be planted at 10 feet apart. Young plants should be obtained in pots and planted out in the autumn. The purple fruited variety is the hardiest. Varieties—Large Yellow and Purple Strawberry.
Loquat.—This is a small ornamental evergreen tree with handsome foliage, which bears quantities of olive-shaped fruits of a sub-acid taste and rich orange colour. When in the young state it requires to he pruned to maintain a regular shape, but otherwise it does not require any special attention. Plants budded on the quince stock bear earlier than seedlings, which may take twelve years to fruit. Varieties—Japanese Mammoth, Thames Prize, and Golden Shorland.
Medlar.—This fruit tree, although not much grown except for its autumn-tinted foliage, provides variety. It will grow almost anywhere, and all the pruning it requires is a judicious thinning out of the branches to allow the wood to ripen. The fruit should be gathered in the autumn and spread out on a shelf in a cool shed with the stem uppermost until ready for use. V ariety—N ottingham.
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Mulberry.—This is a small ornamental tree suitable for the shrubbery, where it may be allowed to grow to its full extent. It may require some pruning in its young state to preserve its shape, but otherwise it can be left alone, when in time it will produce quantities of juicy fruits.
Varieties—English Black and Hick’s Everbearing
Myrtus Ugmi.—This is a small twiggy evergreen bush, very ornamental and quite worthy of a place in the shrubbery. It bears small reddish brown fruits, which ripen in early winter and have the flavour of both strawberry and pineapple. It makes very nice jelly.
Nuts.—Cobs and filberts are produced on twiggy bushes, and chestnuts and walnuts on large trees. Cobs and filberts like a fairly dry loamy soil with plenty of lime, and are usually grown on the margins of a wood or as a shelter hedge in the orchard. They require little attention beyond the necessary thinning out of the old branches and the shortening back of the fruiting branches to keep them in control.
In the early spring these bushes are very ornamental, and are well worth growing for their catkins and little red flowers.
Chestnuts and walnuts are large trees suitable for forming avenues, lawn specimens, or for planting on the margins of shelter belts. They like a very well-drained limy soil and a climate which is warm during the summer and dry in the autumn. In their young stages they require some pruning and regulating of their branches to preserve a good shape, but when grown sufficiently they can be left alone except for cutting out dead and broken branches. When walnuts are required for pickling, the young fruits are gathered before the shells commence to harden. Otherwise they are allowed to drop when ripe, and are then gathered, dried, and stored in a cool airy place.
Varieties—Kentish Cob, Webb’s Prize, Red Filbert, and New Prize. Walnut: Crimson, French Mammoth, Dwarf Prolific, Mandshurica, Mayette, and Parisienne.
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Olive.—This is a small ornamental evergreen tree which will thrive in very dry districts and stand the sea breeze. Individual specimens will grow to a height of 50 feet, but in orchards trees are kept down to the size of a peach or apricot. They are sometimes planted as shelter belts, but if intended for fruiting should receive orchard conditions, and be planted at 20 feet apart each way. They should be put out early in autumn, and during the first four years pruning should be done to regulate the branches and to build up strong shapely trees. The fruit is borne on two-year-old wood. Trees will come into bearing in four years, and by regular pruning crops will be secured each year. For pickling, the fruit can be gathered either green or ripe, but is better ripe. When olive oil is required, the fruit is collected, spread out on trays to allow part of the water to evaporate, then crushed, and lastly strained through a coarse sack.
Varieties —-Black Italian, Late Blanquet, Lucca, and Early Blanquet.
Passion Fruit.—There are two plants known as Passion fruits, Passiflora edulis, the true passion fruit, and Tacsonia mollissima, the yellow banana-flavoured kind. The passion fruit is a strong-growing greedy plant, and when preparing the soil for it, it should be deeply cultivated and well manured with farmyard manure. The vines are grown on wire fences in commercial orchards, and in gardens over rustic arches, trellises, fences, or over outbuildings. Plants, which are easily raised from seed, are put out at 12 feet apart, but when only a few are required it is better to buy them in pots from the nurserymen. They have to be tied up to their supports for the first two years, but afterwards can climb by their own tendrils. If too crowded the shoots can be thinned and regulated, when they will continue to fruit for seven or eight years. To maintain them in a fruiting condition they require manuring with chemical manures, and a mulch with farmyard manure or lupins during summer is an advantage. Once established the passion fruit bears heavy crops, and as it is a very ornamental plant, it is worth planting against a wall or over a verandah in the warmer districts.
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Peach and Nectarine.—As these are much alike, and require the same treatment they can he taken together. Both succeed in a well-drained, fairly rich soil, and a warm sunny position where both the wood and the fruit will ripen. In the North and in Central Otago they can be grown as bush trees, hut near the coast they are better trained in a fan-shaped manner on a wall or fence. They require good cultivation, reasonable manuring, and plenty of water during dry weather. They hear their fruit on the young well-ripened wood of the previous season, and pruning consists of cutting out old branches, reducing the number of young shoots and removing their unripened tips. In spring, when growth commences on those trees trained against walls, the growing shoots are disbudded to one at the end of each leader to carry on the growth, and to one at the base to take the place of those leaders or branches to be removed at pruning time. In summer, if too .many shoots have been left, these are thinned out and shortened back to a wood bud. Each shoot when tied in should have a clear space of 5 to 6 inches on either side. As the fruit develops it should be thinned out considerably.
Varieties—Peach: Hale’s Early, Brigg’s Bed May, Wiggins, Royal George, Sea Eagle Improved, Mary’s Choice. Nectarine: Early Rivers, Gold Mine, New Boy, and Ansenne.
Pear.—The pear is often treated as a specimen tree in
grass, though it submits quite readily to being pruned and kept as a large bush or trained as a cordon on a wall. It bears its fruit on spurs like the apple, and requires similar pruning and treatment. In commercial orchards it requires clean cultivation, spraying, and careful pruning, but in town gardens it is such an ornamental tree when in flower that it can be planted in the shrubbery or the flower garden. There are both cooking and dessert varieties, which mature early but will not keep. The best keeping varieties are those that mature late. As a rule once a pear tree is well established and well set with fruiting spurs, it will continue to fruit freely even when neglected.
Varieties —William Bon Chretien, Louis Bonne of Jersey Beurre D’Anjou, Triomphe de Vienne, Conference, Twy
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ford Monarch, Marie Louise, Glou Morceau, Winter Cole, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, P. Barry. For cooking: Vicar of Winkfield, Uvedale’s St. Germain, and Catillac.
Persimmon. —The persimmon is a fruit which when well grown and thoroughly ripe is very luscious, and therefore well worthy of cultivation. It is a small ornamental tree
Young pyramid pear before pruning.
After pruning.
which requires a sunny well-drained position and good soil. It must be sheltered from cold winds, and is most satisfactory in districts practically immune from frost. It should thrive wherever lemons are a success. The foliage turns a beautiful tint in the autumn, and its golden fruits, which ripen in late autumn or winter, are also very ornamental. It requires little or no pruning except to maintain its shape.
Varieties —Dia Maru, Kuro Kumo, and Heycheya
Plum.—This, like the pear, is often treated as a standard and allowed to develop into a small tree, the only pruning it receives being to thin out the branches as required, and to remove dead and diseased wood. Plum trees can be pruned to bush size, however, and as they bear their fruit on spurs produced on the previous year’s wood as well as on older branches, the pruning consists of thinning out the old
Kel way Strawberry. The Laxton.
Raspberries. Kelway’s Superlative.
Corn Cob.
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branches, occasionally shortening back the lateral growths to half an inch, and extending the young growths by a foot or more, until the trees reach their maximum development. Like other fruit trees, the plum likes plenty of lime and applications of phosphates, and if not making satisfactory growth, a mulching with farmyard manure will be an advantage.
There are Cherry plums, Japanese plums, and both cooking and dessert varieties. Varieties—Tragedy Prune, Early Orleans, The Czar, Oullin’s Golden Gage, Transparent Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Kirk’s Magnum Bonum, Late Rivers, Blue Diamond, Giant Prune, and Pond’s Seedling. Japanese Varieties: Burbank, Ogon, Wright’s Early, and Satsuma.
Quince. —This is a very accommodating tree, not at all difficult to manage, and one which will grow and fruit in poor soil with the minimum of attention. All the pruning it will require will be a judicious thinning out of the branches, the removal of all those which grow inwards, and an occasional shortening back of the main branches to keep it within control. The fruit is borne very freely, and is suitable for making jams and jellies and for flavouring. Should the fruits be furry in texture, give a dressing of salt at the rate of 1 oz. to the square yard during summer.
Varieties—Champion, Mammoth, Portugal, and Van Diemen.
Raspberry,—Raspberries like a cool moist position, and will endure a little shade, but they must be well cultivated and liberally fed to get them to produce annual crops of young strong canes, without which they will not be fruitful. There are many ways of training the fruiting canes, and on this will depend the method of planting. On a large scale they are planted in rows 4 to 6 feet apart, and trained on wires, but in small gardens they are either tied up to stakes or they are bent over to meet those from the adjoining groups, thus forming arches or half hoops. In this case they are planted in groups of threes at intervals of 5 feet, with the same distance between the rows. Good
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well-rooted suckers are selected, and these are planted in early autumn so that they may be established before winter. After planting they are cut back to near the ground, so that there is no fruit for the first season, but they will make all the better canes for subsequent crops.
The soil should not be dug too deeply round the canes, for they are surface rooters; it is sufficient to keep it cultivated and free from weeds. A mulch of farmyard manure applied in the early summer is an advantage. Pruning consists of cutting out the old canes which have fruited as soon as the crop is gathered, and later on thinning the remaining
How to prune and train raspberry canes.
ones to five or six to each stool, at the same time removing the unripened tip of each cane. Raspberries are very liable to sucker, and unless these are required for forming further plantations, they should be dug out as soon as they appear. Varieties Superlative, Northumberland, Fillbasket, Semper Pidelis, Yellow Antwerp, Lloyd George. For autumn fruiting: October Red and October Yellow.
Strawberry.—Although any ground can be made suitable for strawberries by good cultivation and manuring, this plant likes rather heavy soil which will not dry out in the autumn. In preparation for a crop the soil should be trenched and manured in the autumn or winter, cropped with early potatoes, and got ready for planting in early
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Strawberry growing. A—Wrong way. B—Correct way. C—Planting quincunx fashion or chequerwise. D —Formation of new plants by layering runners.
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autumn by further manuring and surface cultivation. The plants are set out in rows at 2 feet apart, with 1 foot between the plants. To give them more room the second year, every second plant is dug out. The young plants are obtained from layers, which should be selected from the
Propagating strawberries. Sink small pots of good soil near strong prolific plants and root a vigorous sucker in each. When well rooted (A) these can be transplanted without disturbing the roots (B).
Pipe for Walcnnjf _
The accompanying sketch illustrates a method of raising strawberries that has the advantages of saving space and keeping the fruit clean. Plants so grown need more water than those in open beds, and benefit greatly by the use of liquid manure when the fruit is developing. The barrel should be turned half-round occasionally.
best plants; not more than six layers should be taken from one plant. These are pegged down into a piece of turf, small pot, or patch of good soil, and no further runners should be allowed to develop. The layers are lifted carefully in February, planted firmly in their permanent positions, and well watered in. Subsequent cultivation consists of hoeing to keep down weeds, removing runners if not required for new plantations, and mulching with strawy manure
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early in spring, to feed the plants, keep them cool and moist, and to keep the fruit off the dirt. After strawberries have been cropped for three years, they grow up out of the ground, and are not satisfactory. In some districts it may be advisable to replant every year. It is certainly a good plan where space will permit to replant a third or a fourth of the patch every year.
Strawberries are frequently spoiled through being neglected as soon as the crop is picked. The plot should be forked over between the rows to open up the soil, which has been tramped down when picking, and it should be kept weeded and watered so that the plants may form good crowns for the following year.
Varieties —Melba, Fillbasket, Royal Sovereign, Laxton’s Noble, Marguerite, Alpine Strawberries and Ettesburg.
Strawberry Culture About Auckland.
The cultivation of the strawberry has, by the method employed, become a distinct industry in the Auckland district. The localities most favoured are Avondale, Northcote, Birkdale, and Henderson; but there are others quite as suitable. The majority of the areas under cultivation vary from a quarter of an acre to two acres in extent; but the average is about three-quarters of an acre. This, unless outside labour is available at picking time, is quite large enough for one man and his family to manage. The crop is one which either pays well or is a complete failure, although with care a failure is seldom known. To be successful, proper working of the ground, lavish manuring with the proper materials, the right sort and best of plants, abundant labour at picking time, and close proximity to a market are all necessary. The soils, in the districts most favoured, are termed “gum land,” and are mostly of a heavy nature, light yellow or white in colour, extremely hard in dry weather, and easily worked into mud when wet. Occasionally “pockets” of a black peaty, and seemingly better soil occur. The quality and the quantity of the fruit is, however, adversely affected by such, although the foliage and growth of the plants are excellent, showing that a tenacious
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moisture-holding soil is required. The aspect should, if possible be a gentle slope facing north, sheltered from cold winds. Although shelter from cold winds is an advantage, shade is positively detrimental; and it is better to be without shelter than to tolerate shade. Drainage is necessary; and provision must be made for carrying heavy rains away quickly, by digging an open trench about a foot deep round the bed in the direction of the fall of the ground. The system in vogue is an annual one, the beds being planted, the crop harvested, and the beds destroyed in the one season. It differs in this respect from the general method of allowing strawberry beds to stand for two or three years. Fresh virgin land is preferable, such land carrying two or sometimes three crops in succession; after which it is laid down in grass for several years. The ground is prepared by double ploughing, in order to break up the soil to a depth of from twelve to fifteen inches. After ploughing it is disced several times, until the surface is broken down to a fine tilth. The preparation of the ground is commenced early in the summer, in order that all may be ready by April, i.e., a month before planting commences in May. A fortnight before planting, 10 cwt. of superphosphate to the acre is sown broadcast. Runners for planting are obtained fresh every year. These are procured from plants grown in a semi-wild natural manner and without manure. The result is that they produce long, thick, non-fibrous roots, and a well- formed crown—the two chief attributes of a good plant. The runners are set at intervals of from seven to nine inches in rows 28 inches apart. Bonedust at the rate of a ton to the acre is sown down the rows at the time of planting, after which the ground must be kept well cultivated. Deep hoeing close in around the plants must be avoided; for any damage to the surface roots is detrimental to the cropping and fruiting qualities of the plants. Directly after planting is finished, two cwt. of sulphate of potash to the acre is sown close to the plants. Two cwt. of sulphate of ammonia, divided into three lots, is sown broadcast during the first week of August, September, and October respectively; and a ton of blood and bone,
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divided into three lots, during the second week of August, September, and October respectively. Six cwt. of Peruvian guano, also divided into three lots, should be sown during the third week each of August, September, and October. Mulching is done in the beginning of October. The best materials are dry pine needles around the plants, and rushes between the rows; failing these clean straw is the next best material. Spraying is necessary, and should be commenced about a month after planting, and repeated
every fourteen or twenty-one days until the berries begin to colour. The mixture used is 6 lb. bluestone, 9 lb. washing soda, and 50 gallons water. The variety generally grown is “Marguerite”; the next most in favour being “Captain Cook.”
Of late years many growers have suffered losses, by reason of what has been termed “patch disease” on account of the plants dying out in patches. There is no evidence that this is a specific disease, but rather the penultimate
stage of several troubles. A great deal of this trouble can be traced to the Tarsonemid mite, which lodges in the growing points, and between the folds of the just developing leaves. The manner of life of the mite ensures that it will spread from old plantations to new. Pests and diseases are so widespread among strawberries that many take the wise precaution of dipping the plants in insecticides, e.g., nicotine sulphate watered down to summer strength.
Fortunately hot-water treatment, which has proved so valuable in the keeping down of other pests, has been shown to be applicable to the strawberry. All that is required to be done is to submerge the plants in water at a temperature of 110° F., and to keep them there for 20 minutes. Needless to say the temperature must be maintained at 110° throughout the whole period of submersion, and furthermore the plants must not be packed tightly, but must lie loosely, to enable the water to penetrate into every nook and crevice. A volume of water sufficient to treat the plants and a good thermometer are all that is required. Nor need anyone be alarmed if when the plants are taken from the bath they look wilted and miserable.
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The hot-water does kill some of the leaves, but that is of no moment as there are plenty more rudimentary leaves in the crown ready to take their place. What is important is that the plants should be treated immediately before planting, and when planted out they will grow away vigorously. With such a simple method at command growers will be able to assure the setting out of clean plants.
The Vine.—Grapes can be grown and ripened in most parts of New Zealand, and in the north grape growing in the open is carried on on a commercial scale, both for the fruit and for wine making. The soil should be deeply and thoroughly cultivated and well drained, and though any loamy soil can be made suitable, a good heavy loam with a clay subsoil which retains moisture in the summer, is the most suitable. They can also be grown successfully on sunny hillsides which have been terraced and properly prepared. The vines are usually trained in espalier fashion on wire fences about 4 feet high, the bottom wire being 18 inches from the ground to keep the fruit clean and to assist the cultivation. The vines are planted in the winter or spring at a distance of 6 feet apart, care being taken to spread out the roots and not to plant any deeper than they were in the nursery. The first year they are cut back to four buds, and when these shoot, the two best are retained and tied up to the wires, the others being rubbed out. Of these two shoots one is trained to the right and the other to the left. Next year, both these canes are cut back at the wires to two buds, and when these shoot, one is taken up to the next wire, the other trained along the bottom one and allowed to bear. Grapes are borne on the young wood of the current year’s growth, and these shoots are pinched at three or four leaves beyond the bunch, all lateral or secondary growths being pinched at one leaf. During the growing season the surface soil is kept cultivated, and if farmyard manure or lupins are available, a mulching in the summer will keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Vines require a lot of feeding, and a suitable chemical manure is applied just after pruning.
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Vines can also be trained against walls or fences on the single rod system, or they can be trained over a low pergola. Under Glass. —As vines under glass are expected to grow and bear for years, it is usual to go to some considerable trouble when preparing the border. If the soil is a light loam with good natural drainage it will be sufficient to trench it to a depth of 2 feet, and to work in a good dressing of decayed farmyard manure, bone meal, half inch bones, wood ashes, charcoal, and lime rubble. The width of the border can be 10 feet inside the house and 15 feet
A hip-roofed vinery.
Pruning a vine. A = extra bud left, the basal bud being not too promising.
outside it. While the inside one should be level, the outside one should slope down and away from the house. Where the soil is heavy and wet it will be an advantage to excavate it to a depth of 2$ feet, to put in a course of 6 inches of brickbats or clinkers for drainage, to lay a layer of turves over this with the grass side downwards, and then to make up to 2 feet with a mixture of turfy loam, lime rubble, manure, and the other ingredients.
It is not necessary to make up the whole border at once, half being sufficient for the first two years. There are several designs for vineries, but for an unheated house a lean-to facing the north is probably’ the most suitable,
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while for a heated house the span-roofed structure is to be preferred.
The vines, which are usually obtained in pots, should be shaken out, the roots disentangled, and spread out in holes 15 inches square and 4 inches deep, and 3 to 4 feet apart for single rods.
The first year the rods are cut down to the ground and the selected young stem allowed to grow to its full extent. In the autumn this is cut down to about 4 feet and again allowed to grow to its full length, then pruned back to
Renovating vine border for “shanking,” a sickness which attacks the foot-stalks of vines and causes shrivelling. It is probably due to soil exhaustion or to a difference in temperature between the soil and the air above it.
A—Cold sub-soil. B—Drainage. C —Prepared soil.
8 feet, and so on, the rod adding about 4 feet each year until it reaches its maximum growth.
Buds are allowed to develop at intervals of about 12 to 18 inches apart on the old wood, and these form the spurs from which the annual growth of young wood arises.
Once the rods are furnished with spurs, the annual pruning, which takes place some time during early winter, consists of cutting back the young wood to two buds at the base. At the same time it is desirable to let down the rods, rub otf any loose bark, to wash them with tepid water with a half worn brush, to wash down the glass and woodwork with soapy water, and lime wash the back wall. At this time it is also usual to remove some of the surface soil without damaging the roots, to give a dressing of chemical manure, a top-dressing of 4 inches of well-rotted cow manure and about two inches of good loam.
The rods are then coated with a mixture of cow dung, clay, and Gishurst’s compound, and tied loosely in a horizontal position until growth commences. When they are to
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be started the border receives a good watering, the ventilators are closed, and the rods syringed night and morning. As soon as growth develops the rods can be tied up permanently. The temperature has to be controlled by ventilating, a minimum of 60 to 65 degrees and a maximum of 70 to 80 degrees being maintained during growth. During the flowering period a temperature of
Grape thinning. A —After. B—Before.
75 to 80 degrees can be maintained, 70 to 80 degrees during the stoning period, and 80 to 85 degrees during ripening.
While the vines are in flower stop syringing for a few days and cease altogether as soon as the berries begin to colour.
When the young growths are about 4 inches long they should be gradually tied down to the wires, and each shoot stopped two leaves beyond the bunch. Subsequent stopping is at one leaf. When the bunches set, thin out to not
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more than one on each shoot and thin the berries as soon as they are as large as green peas. Before thinning tie up the top branches of the bunch called the shoulders; then with a pair of special scissors remove all badly formed and inside berries to give those left room to develop. Ventilating and watering have to be carried out carefully, and at all times cold draughts must be avoided. When the fruit is cut the ventilators can be opened right up and plenty of air given until the vines are pruned and started into growth for another season.
Inarching. —When varieties are not suitable, or if there are too many of one kind, it is quite possible to inarch another variety. The scion consists of a young vine growing in a pot, and this is brought into the vinery at starting time so that both it and the stock will be about equal in development when the operation takes place. Fix the scion firmly and cut a slice of the green wood off it, and a similar slice off the stock, fitting them together at the wounds and binding them with raffia. In the course of a fortnight the union will be complete, when the ties can be removed; then the scion below the stock can be gradually severed, and the growth of the stock pinched back to put all the energy into the development of the scion. Propagation is also carried out by means of cuttings, buds, or layering.
Varieties—Black Hamburg, Black Alicante, Buckland’s Sweetwater, Foster’s Seedling, Golden Queen, Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, Gros Maroc, Lady Downes, Madresfield Court, Mrs. Pince, Muscat of Alexandria, Royal Muscadine.
For unheated houses: Black Hamburg, Madresfield Court, Mrs. Pinee, and Foster’s Seedling.
Black Hamburgh is the most popular variety, and for keeping Lady Downes and Gros Colman are suitable.
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INSECT AND FUNGOID PESTS
All gardens are attacked at times by insect and fungoid pests, and although in many cases this is due to neglect, wrong treatment, or unsuitable soil conditions, there are times when even the most skilful cultivators have trouble. Clean and careful cultivation, proper manuring, and hygienic conditions help to keep the plants healthy. It is the unhealthy subjects which are the most susceptible to disease. It may he safely said that although pests cannot be entirely eliminated, they can be kept under control. The task of controlling pests is much more successful if attacks are anticipated and preventive steps taken early.
The following are some of the methods of control;—
(1) Maintain clean and healthy conditions.
(2) Spray with suitable liquids and fumigate.
(3) Dust with suitable powders.
(4) Encourage or introduce natural enemies.
(5) Sterilise soils with steam or chemicals.
To carry out this work certain equipment is necessary, and it is really better to have the right appliances than to try to do the spraying with the garden syringe, a method which is both wasteful and ineffective. When spraying, it is necessary to wet completely both the under and upper surfaces of the foliage, and to use some force. The work should be done, too, without wastage of the spraying materials, which are far from cheap. The simplest effective sprayer is the bucket pump. This is kept in position with the foot, both hands being left free to work the pump and direct the nozzle. For a small orchard, the knapsack sprayer is the best. It is carried on the back. In large commercial orchards it is better to have the pump and tank as fixtures, and to distribute the spray through galvanised iron pipes to wherever it is required.
Spray pump.
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This is much more convenient and economical than a portable power pump. For distributing powder there are suitable guns, principally of the bellows type, but powder insecticides are not so popular in New Zealand as in drier countries.
Fumigating is a simple process, and a very suitable apparatus consists of a copper pan, a convenient stand, and a spirit lamp which will hold just sufficient spirit to melt and vaporise the fumigating substance. As a rule the following sprays are used :
Poison sprays consisting of some form of arsenic or nicotine;
Contact sprays of some form of nicotine or kerosene; Smother sprays of some form of oil or soap; and Fungoid sprays consisting of some combination of sulphur and copper.
There are a great many reliable proprietary substances, but it is also possible to prepare one’s own sprays from the simple ingredients, and often at a lower cost.
When dealing with fungoid pests the gardener should realise that there is little possibility of controlling the fungus while in the vegetative or mycelium stage, but the spores can be destroyed during distribution, or as they germinate. Insect pests are controlled according to their method of feeding. Biting insects are poisoned, sucking insects are smothered or destroyed by contact sprays, and insects that burrow into the tissue are prevented from so doing by making the host plants distasteful and by poisoning the outside of the buds.
Control by proper hygienic conditions is very effective, and should be adopted along with spraying, dusting, or fumigation. This will consist of keeping all ditches, paths, and hedges clear of grass and weeds, keeping all rubbish which would harbour pests burnt, and keeping all trees and shrubs free from moss and lichens. Insects hibernate among the grass, weeds, and moss during the winter. They also lay their eggs among undesirable vegetation. Some fungoid pests not only exist on certain weeds, but also go through their resting period amongst garden debris. There
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Shot-hole fungus r . w KirK FL S
Pupa. Moth. Codlin moth. Apple infected with codlin moth
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are a great many pests, and many books have been written about them, but I will refer only to the more common ones, and indicate simple remedies.
An important method of controlling insect pests is by introducing their natural enemies. This has been done very successfully by the distribution of ladybirds to control scale blights, and by Aphelinus mains to control the woolly aphis on apples.
Orchard Pests.
Aphis.—This pest attacks many fruit trees, especially those trained on walls or fences. Spray with soapy water to which a little nicotine has been added, or use summer kerosene emulsion.
Black Spot.—-This disease attacks both apples and pears, and is controlled by winter spraying with lime sulphur 1 to 15. When the flower buds show pink, spray with summer Bordeaux or lime sulphur, and when more white than pink spray again with the same strength.
Cherry Slug (Selandria cerasia ). —The mature insect is a four-winged black fly which lays its eggs in a puncture in the leaf. In the larvae stage, this is a slimy tadpole-like grub which eats away the tissue of the leaves of the cherry, plum, and pear. If there is fruit on the trees, spray with hellebore powder, but if it has been picked spray with arsenate of lead.
Codlin Moth (Carpocapsa pomenella). —This moth lays its eggs in the buds and young fruit of apples, the young grub eating its way into the fruit later on. Spray with arsenate of lead within seven days of the petals falling, and later at intervals of eighteen days. Fallen apples should be collected, and those which are seen to be affected should be burned. The spray for moth is often combined with lime sulphur, which is used to combat fungoid diseases.
Grape Vine Mildew (Oidium Tuckeri) . —This is a surface mildew, not hard to control. It is usually caused by faulty ventilating and heating. Dust with flowers of sulphur, and paint the heating pipes with sulphur.
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Leaf Curl.—This disease is particularly bad on peaches and nectarines, and is often caused by unsuitable weather conditions. After pruning spray with copper soda (mixture 6-4-40); in spring with Bordeaux mixture, and later with carbonate of copper.
Control of scab on apple and pear. Left: first spraying at “greentip stage. ’’ Right: second spraying at open cluster stage.
Mildew (Podosphaera leucotricha) . —This fungus attacks the foliage of the young shoots, the flower buds, and the immature fruit, coating them with a greyish white powder, which causes malformation and cracking of the foliage and fruit. During winter pruning, burn all twigs and spray with winter Bordeaux or lime sulphur, just as the young leaves are unfolding. Later on spray with a solution of ammoniated carbonate of copper.
Pear Leaf Blister.-—This is caused by a small insect which burrows into the tissue of the leaf, where it is secure against sprays. Spray with kerosene emulsion winter strength just before the leaf buds swell.
Raspberry Weevil.—This is a most difficult insect to control, for it eats its way into the buds which it destroys. Spray during spring and summer with tar water to make the canes distasteful to the egg-laying parent.
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Red Spider.—This is a very small red mite which weaves a protecting web over itself when it attacks the foliage of fruit trees and bushes. It is a dry weather pest, and the best method of controlling it is to spray and hose the foliage with clear water. Spraying with kerosene emulsion or lime sulphur is also recommended.
Scab (Fusicladium dentricum).- —This fungus attacks both the apple and the pear, and usually commences its career on the leaves, spreading from there to the fruit. Spray with lime sulphur or winter Bordeaux after pruning, and again with summer Bordeaux after the fruit has set.
Scale {Aspidiotus conchiformis) . —This pest is easily controlled by winter spraying with red oil or lime, salt, and sulphur.
Shot Hole Fungus.—This disease attacks plums and apricots, causing spots which eventually fall out, leaving holes about the size of ordinary shot. Spray after pruning with winter Bordeaux, and again as the leaves unfold with summer strength. If the disease persists, spray with ammoniated carbonate after fruit has set.
Strawberry Leaf Blight (Mycosphaerellcß fragiarm). — This causes brownish or reddish spots on the leaves which spread and may involve the whole leaf. Spray with summer Bordeaux as soon as growth starts in the spring, and again after the fruit is gathered.
Woolly Aphis (Schizoneura lanigera). —This is so effectively controlled by Aphelinus that it is no longer a menace to fruit growers.
Flower Garden Pests.
These are fairly numerous, especially on highly specialised plants such as roses, carnations, daffodils, and chrysanthemums.
Eel Worm.—This is a particularly difficult pest to control because it gets into the tissues of the plants it attacks, where it is impossible to reach it with a spray or drench. It is now checked to a very great extent in daffodils by the hot water process, and bulbs so treated and planted in
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clean ground are practically free. It is never so troublesome among those bulbs planted in the grass or among shrubs.
Grass Grubs.—These troublesome pests on lawns and pastures, as well as in the tree nurseries, can now be controlled by a substance called Kestar, a coal tar product. It is easy and safe to apply, and is quite effective. Mixing or digging in apterite, and covering the surface soil to keep in the fumes is also effective, and the grubs are also controlled to some extent by natural enemies.
Green Fly.—This is kept in check by frequent sprayings with soapy water to which a little Black Leaf 40 has been added.
Midge on Olearias.—This has become a particularly troublesome pest recently, at one time threatening the existence of the popular Olearia Forsteri as a hedge plant. It is found, however, that as the midge lays its eggs on the young tender shoots, if the hedge is clipped after these are deposited, the subsequent growth will be clean. Spraying with tar water or even liquid manure, which will make the plants distasteful to the mother midge when laying her eggs, is effective.
Mildew on Eoses and Michaelmas Daisies.—Mildew on roses should be anticipated, for though the plants can be kept clean during the early part of the season, there is a difficulty in the autumn, especially if it be a warm moist one. Spraying with lime sulphur winter strength should be carried out as soon as pruning is completed, and later with summer strength once a month until the flowers begin to open. During the period of flowering, if spraying has to be done, it had better be with formalin one tablespoonful to a gallon of water. Dusting the soil with sulphate of iron in the autumn after leaves have been cleaned up, and again in the spring to kill resting spores, is also recommended. Black spot is controlled in the same way as mildew, it being most severe in Pemetiana roses. Mildew on Michaelmas daisies, sweet peas, and chrysanthemums is kept in check by spraying with lime sulphur, sulphide of potassium, or Bordeaux mixture (summer strength).
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Slugs and Snails.—Though these cannot be classed as insects, they are most destructive, especially on young growths in the spring. They can be reduced and to some extent controlled by dusting with freshly slaked lime or watering with lime water. During the wet weather, this dusting, which is more effective when applied in the evening, will have to be renewed daily to be of value. The lime dissolves the outer skin of slugs, thus bringing about their ultimate destruction. Mat plants and young seedlings can be protected by watering with fresh lime water, which is easily made. Dusting with horticultural naphthalene and trapping with bran is also practised. It is, however, most important to maintain the surface soil in a fine state of cultivation, and to remove all stones, grass, or weeds under which these pests can hide during the day.
Wire Worms.—These are the grub stage of the click beetle, and as they exist in this stage for several years, during the whole of which time they are destructive, they are a serious pest, especially in new gardens. As the beetle lays its eggs on grass and weeds, it is a wise precaution if their presence is suspected to burn off the surface grass before trenching a new garden, or breaking in new ground. The pest is controlled to a certain extent by placing bait of carrots, potatoes, or oil cake near plants liable to attack, and examining these frequently. By giving applications of gas lime, or by growing crops of mustard and digging them in, they are controlled or discouraged.
Greenhouse Pests.
Fungoid pests are not so troublesome in the greenhouse as in the orchard and flower garden, for here conditions, although artificial, are more under control. Most troubles are due to too high a temperature, too little fresh air, too much water, and too rich a soil, and if discretion is used with regard to these matters one should be able to a large extent to eliminate pests. Green fly or aphis, which is very troublesome, especially on plants with hairy leaves such as Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and Cinerarias, can easily be controlled by fumigating with some preparation such as X.L. All, Nicoticide, or some form of tobacco
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paper. Mite is also troublesome in such fleshy-leaved plants as Gloxinias, Begonias, and Cyclamens, and it too, as well as the leaf miner, is susceptible to fumigation, though spraying with a fairly strong solution of nicoticide is also effective. Seale insects, mealy bug, and thrips, all of which are troublesome on palms, ferns, and foliage plants, can be controlled by spraying and sponging. Sponging is essential in any ease to keep plants free from accumulations of dust and the dirty deposit left by insects. Red spider, which attacks vines and foliage plants, is largely a dry weather pest, and can be controlled by spraying with soapy water, or even with clean water, and by frequent damping of the paths and benches to maintain a moist atmosphere.
Pests in the Vegetable Garden.
These are controlled to some extent by good and deep cultivation, wise manuring, rotation of crops, and reasonable spraying.
Bean aphis.—The black aphis which forms on the young growing tips of broad beans can be controlled by pinching out the young infested tips after a reasonable crop is set, and spraying with kerosene emulsion.
Cabbage aphis.—This is a very destructive pest, especially in dry hot autumns. Forceful sprayings with soapy water such as is left from the wash tub, applied when hot, followed by sprayings with clean water, are effective. This spray can be made more effective by adding a little Black Leaf 40. Spraying with kerosene emulsion, and dusting with a mixture of lime and tobacco powder also are efficacious.
Cabbage Moth.—The caterpillar stage of this moth is very destructive, and the remedies are hand picking, and spraying with hellebore powder, or arsenate of lead. As these sprays are highly poisonous and adhere to the foliage for a considerable time, it is advisable to use them only on young plants.
Club Root. —This pest, which attacks all members of the brassica family, is very destructive in the vegetable garden,
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particularly where the soil has become sour by constant manuring over a long period, and where the space is too limited to allow for a proper rotation of crops. Lime will not only destroy the fungus, but will also improve the sour condition of the soil in which the pest thrives. Applications of fresh crushed lime or slaked lime when preparing the soil for the crops, with subsequent dressings at regular intervals, are recommended.
Varying forms of club root.
Mildew and Thrips on Peas.—Spraying with liver of sulphur and kerosene emulsion will keep these pests in check, but they are not as a rule troublesome unless weather conditions are unfavourable.
Potato Disease. —This is one of the most destructive of all pests, and when conditions are favourable, it will attack whole areas in a few days. As it has to pass through its resting season on the tubers or in the soil, it is possible to prevent infection by selecting clean tubers for seed and exposing them to light and fresh air, both of which are deleterious to the fungus. By adopting a rotation of crops, by autumn or early winter cultivation, and by the application of lime, much can be done to clean the land and render it in a good condition for the crop.
Spraying with Bordeaux or Burgundy mixture first when the tops are about six inches high, again before the second hoeing up, and finally as the plants come into flower, has a considerable influence on keeping the disease in check, and has a beneficial effect on the crop.
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Tomato Blight.—This can be controlled by spraying with Bordeaux mixture or liver of sulphur in the early stages. The maintenance of a dry and buoyant atmosphere will assist in keeping the plants in a healthy condition, thus rendering the plants more fit to resist attacks of disease.
Some Horticultural Formulas for Insecticides and Fungicides.
Ammoniated carbonate of copper.—Copper carbonate 5 oz., water 45 gallons, strong ammonia (85 per cent, strength) 3 pints. Make the copper carbonate into a thin paste with water, add the ammonia, which will produce a clear solution of a pale colour. Dilute with water to 45 gallons. This spray is not so effective as Bordeaux, but it will not stain leaves or fruit or damage delicate foliage.
Arsenate of Lead.—Dissolve 1J lb. of a reputable brand in 50 gallons of water for codlin moth.
Bordeaux Mixture.—(l) Summer Formula: Copper sulphate 4 lb., quick lime 4 lb., water 40 gallons. Dissolve the sulphate in 20 gallons of water. Slake the lime in a little water and when slaked make up to 20 gallons. Strain the milk of lime into the barrel containing the sulphate of copper, thoroughly stirring when pouring it in. Wooden vessels are best for preparing this mixture, which should be tested with a clean knife blade for free copper, and used when fresh.
(2) Winter Formula: Copper sulphate 10 lb., lime 10 lb. water 40 gallons. Prepare as above.
Burgundy Mixture.—ln this, washing soda is substituted for lime. It is claimed that this mixture keeps longer than Bordeaux.
Formaldehyde.—Mix one tablespoonful of this substance in one gallon of water. It is useful for spraying roses when they are in flower because it does not stain.
Hellebore Powder.—Make a solution of this powder by dissolving 1 oz, in a gallon of water. Make the powder into a paste first, and leave to soak for 2 or 3 hours before applying. It is useful for cherry slug and other biting insect pests.
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Kerosene Emulsion.—Soft soap 4 lb., kerosene 1 gallon, water 1 gallon. Dissolve the soft soap in a gallon of boiling water, and when still boiling, add the kerosene and chum to emulsify. Dilute for use to 24 gallons. This is a valuable contact spray for aphis and should be applied warm.
Lime sulphur can be obtained from seedsmen ready to dilute for use, and will prove more convenient than going to the trouble of making it. See “Self-boiled Lime Sulphur.”
Nicotine.—This can be obtained in a concentrated form as Black Leaf 40, and is a useful spray for aphis, thrips, and black fly. About three-quarters of a teaspoonful in a gallon of water.
Phosphorised Pollard. —This can be obtained mixed ready for use from manufacturing chemists, and should be used with care and stored in a safe place.
Potassium Sulphate Solution.—Dissolve 1 oz. of potassium sulphide in 3 gallons of soapy water. This is a valuable fungicide, and should be used fresh.
Quassia Chips.—Boil a quarter of a pound of chips in a gallon of water for 20 minutes, and then strain. Dissolve i lb. of soap and mix with the quassia liquid, diluting it to 4 gallons.
Red Oil.—There are several brands of red oil obtainable, all of which mix readily with water. It is a very useful winter wash for fruit trees affected with scale.
Self-boiled Lime Sulphur.—-Flowers of sulphur 10 lb., Quick lime 15 lb., water 50 gallons. Place the lime in a wooden barrel and pour 2 or 3 gallons of boiling water over it. Immediately add the sulphur, together with 3 gallons of hot water. Then cover the barrel with a cloth and the mixture will boil for 20 minutes by the slaking of the lime. When the boiling ceases, add water to dilute to 50 gallons. Strain and use as a fungicide.
White Island Product is a valuable fungicide, and is useful for checking anemone disease.
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Woburn Winter Wash.—Copper sulphate If lb., kerosene 5 pints, water 10 gallons, lime J lb., caustic soda 2 lb. Dissolve the copper sulphate in 8 gallons of water. Slake the lime in water, and add to the dissolved copper sulphate, straining it to remove grit. Then add the kerosene and churn well, and finally add the caustic soda, bringing the whole up to 10 gallons. This wash is useful for cleansing trees of moss. It also destroys scale, and has a fungicidal value. An excellent general winter wash.
Horticultural naphthalene, apterite, Restar, and other proprietary substances are useful when applied as directed.
PAINTING AND GLAZING OP GREENHOUSES.
In the painting and glazing of glasshouses, it is essential that the portions to be done should be absolutely free from moisture. A new house, whether of wood or iron, should have at least one good coat of linseed oil and lead paint and time should be allowed for this to harden before glazing.
In glazing, bed in the rebate with soft putty of good quality, pressing the glass down hard enough to make the putty ooze well out underneath the glass. Do not lap the glass more than fin. as too much lap may set up capillary action and cause considerable drip inside the house.
If the house is built of wood, it is necessary to sprig the glass at both sides; the bottom of each square of glass; and also on top of the lap.
If built of iron, light metal clips bent in an “S” shape are necessary. When cleaning off the bedding putty, fill up any places previously missed.
On the outside see that the space between the glass and bars is filled up and made smooth, after which it should be well painted with linseed and white lead paint, care being taken to see that the paint covers the putty thoroughly.
With regard to the above, we are indebted to Messrs. Hurst and Drake Limited, of Christchurch, Oil, Colour and Glass Merchants, whose experience in these lines is considerable and whose advice and information should be useful to readers.—.6
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A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
The climate of New Zealand varies from sub-tropical in the North Auckland district, to the cool temperature of Southland, and for the convenience of horticulturists a separate calendar is provided for the North and the South Islands.
It is obviously impossible to provide for every contingency, but the gardener will easily adopt such modifications as his particular case may require.
In different seasons at the same place, a greater variation than that arising from latitude frequently occurs, in consequence of which considerable modifications may have to be made.
The adaptation is, therefore, more affected by variations of the season than by any circumstances connected with localities.
If then a calendar is carefully made for one place, it may be considered to be applicable to the country in general.
By gardeners in the North as well as in the South directions must be understood with the proviso—weather and state of soil permitting.
If these are favourable, the earliest opportunity should be taken to carry out the operations indicated.
NORTH ISLAND.
JULY.
Under Glass.
Insert cuttings of chrysanthemums and perpetualflowering carnations.
Fumigate on first signs of aphis, thrips, and red spider.
Sow verbenas, lobelia, antirrhinums, pansies, violas, and other subjects required for early summer flowering.
Sow tomato seed for early crops.
Clean up vinery and vines thoroughly, and finish pruning.
Out of Doors.
Clean off spent crops, dig and manure vacant ground. Put seed potatoes in boxes in full light to sprout, and plant a few rows.
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Plant cabbage and cauliflower, autumn sown onions and shallots.
Sharpen stakes, trim pea sticks, and prepare labels during bad weather.
Commence rose pruning, and push on planting to a finish.
Transplanting of trees and shrubs can be done this month.
Finish lifting, dividing, and transplanting of herbaceous plants.
Plant an early batch of gladioli.
Push on with the planting of fruit trees when the soil is dry enough.
Pruning and winter spraying should be finished this month if possible.
Lay in scions ready for grafting.
Prune out-door vines; manure and clean off weeds.
Make up hotbeds as required.
Trim conifer hedges.
AUGUST
Under Glass.
Sow tomatoes, cucumbers, begonias, gloxinias, coleus, tender annuals, etc.
Shake out and start a few hegonia and gloxinia corms. Pot maidenhair and nephrolepis ferns.
Continue taking cuttings of chrysanthemums and perpetual carnations.
Propagate soft-wooded plants for summer flowering.
Bring in dahlia roots if cuttings are required.
Push on with sowing of flower seeds, and prick off those sown earlier.
Out of Doors.
Sow further peas to suit requirements.
Plant Jerusalem artichokes and potatoes in large quantities.
Start kumaras on hotbed to provide plants for setting out next October.
Sow leeks, cabbage, cauliflower, beet, Brussels sprouts, lettuce, onions, radish, carrots, parsnips, parsley, and spinach.
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Dig in green manuring crops.
Continue planting autumn sown onions.
Keep bulb beds free from weeds.
Trim edges of lawn and weed paths.
Sow or plant new asparagus beds.
Prune clematis of the Jackmani type and summer jasmine.
Top-dress lawns.
Prune autumn fruiting raspberries.
Prune and manure citrus trees.
Roll and mow lawns regularly, and sow down new ones. Make a late sowing of sweet peas. Plant more gladioli.
Finish pruning roses, tie climbers; also finish planting, manuring and digging the beds.
Finish pruning, digging, and spraying in the orchard.
Keep strawberries clean by hoeing; do not hoe too close to the plants; give a dressing of blood and bone.
Manure rhubarb beds.
Spray peach and nectarine trees at bud movement with Bordeaux for leaf curl
Top-dress anemone and ranunculus beds with well decayed cow manure.
SEPTEMBER.
Under Glass.
Pot begonias and gloxinias started last month; finish re-potting ferns.
Sow tomatoes, capsicums, Cape gooseberries, egg plants,
melons, cucumbers, vegetable marrows, pumpkins, etc.
Fumigate for aphis and thrips, and shade glass.
Pot and stop rooted cuttings of perpetual carnations.
Sow half hardy annuals and take dahlia cuttings.
Complete taking of chrysanthemum cuttings.
Divide and re-pot aspidistras as required.
Out of Doors.
Plant main crop potatoes, spray and earth up earlier crops.
Sow more peas, earth up and stake those already up.
Sow dwarf beans at the end of the month.
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Plant out cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce.
Sow parsnips, cauliflower, cabbage, leeks, parsley, and most other vegetables.
Plant or sow new asparagus beds, give old beds a dressing of salt.
Finish onion planting, and keep hoe going among crops.
Lift, divide, and replant border chrysanthemums and dahlias.
Plant more gladioli and keep beds free from weeds.
Sow hardy and half hardy annuals in the open ground.
Divide and replant primroses and polyanthus when flowering is finished; plant violets.
Give cinerarias coming into bloom liquid manure; spray with arsenate of lead if caterpillars appear.
Spray citrus trees with Bordeaux when fruit has set, against wither tip and verrucosis.
Spray stone fruits with lime sulphur when petals have fallen, against brown rot.
Mow and roll lawns regularly; give a watering with nitrate of soda, one ounce to one gallon.
Prune and plant bouvardias, bougainvilleas, poinsettias, luculias, and other tender subjects.
Graft fruit trees and keep surface soil loose with the hoe.
Spray apples and pears for black spot and brown rot when the buds show the flower clusters; use Bordeaux.
Spray again when petals have fallen, adding arsenate of lead for codlin moth.
Finish tree and shrub planting operations.
Spray black currants with lime sulphur for Big-bud Mite.
OCTOBER.
Under Glass
Pay careful attention to watering, shading, and ventilation of greenhouses.
Feed flowering plants of perpetual carnations and insert more cuttings.
Insert cuttings of dahlias, fuchsias, heliotrope, and coleus.
Sow salvias, and repeat last month’s sowings where required.
Sow the first batch of winter flowering primulas.
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Out of Doors.
Complete the planting of potatoes, spray and mould up earlier crops.
Sow parsnips and carrots without delay. Make successional sowings of dwarf beans.
Sow runner beans, clean up weeds, and stake last year’s row.
Plant tomatoes, kumaras, and Cape gooseberries.
Plant out passion fruit.
Sow tomatoes, melons, cucumbers, and vegetable marrows outside; plant out those sown under glass last month.
Continue to make successional sowings of peas.
Sow vegetables of all descriptions according to requirements.
Sow annuals freely in vacant places.
Plant fresh beds of violets.
Mulch and water roses if dry weather prevails.
Divide and plant dahlias. Clean border carnations of rusty foliage.
Sow kale, savoy cabbage, winter and spring broccoli.
Spray apples and pears when petals have fallen with arsenate of lead and lime sulphur, or Bordeaux.
Remove ties from grafts as soon as the union swells; replace any scions that have missed.
NOVEMBER.
Under Glass.
Thin grapes; also stop and tie laterals.
Keep ventilation and moisture according to requirements.
Feed ferns and plants in flower with liquid manure.
Shading will be necessary to prevent excessive evaporation.
Pot and stop perpetual-flowering carnations.
Sow herbaceous calceolaria in a cool position.
Sow Humea elegans for next season’s flowering; sow some seed of Brompton stock in a cool frame or on a reserve border.
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Out of Doors.
Thin crops; keep down weeds by hoeing.
Sow sweet corn every fourteen days.
Sow haricot, runner, dwarf, and Lima beans.
Mould up and stake peas; water if the weather is dry.
Sow winter rhubarb, to grow without transplanting.
Plant out cucumber, tomatoes, vegetable marrows, melons of all kinds, capsicum, Cape gooseberries, egg plants, kumaras, and celery.
Plant, stake, spray, and remove laterals from tomatoes. Plant out tobacco. Sow any vegetables missed last month. Complete dahlia and chrysanthemum planting. Stake
and tie those previously planted.
Tie up herbaceous perennials that require it.
Mulch rhododendrons and azaleas that require it; pick off seed pods and water if the weather is dry.
Keep sweet peas and roses well watered; feed with liquid manure and keep all faded flowers carefully removed.
Disbud fruit trees. Thin apricots, peaches, and other heavily cropped trees.
Continue to spray at ten-day intervals for codlin moth. Spray for black spot and ripe rot with lime sulphur.
Prune early flowering shrubs as soon as the blossom is over; lilacs, weigela, philadelphus, shrubby spirseas, and deutzias.
Uproot suckers round the base of lilacs.
Take cuttings of pinks and rock plants.
DECEMBER.
Under Glass.
Finish grape thinning; allow more ventilation when the berries start to colour.
Keep cyclamen growing in a cool shady position.
Give plenty of ventilation; keep floors and benches moist,
Shade all glass on houses and frames.
Stop and pot perpetual-flowering carnations.
Re-pot old corms of cyclamen.
Out of Doors.
Make successional sowings of dwarf beans and sweet corn. A late sowing of runner beans can be made.
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Prick out celery in beds of good soil. Prepare trenches.
Spray potatoes and tomatoes, and finish cutting asparagus.
Plant cabbage and cauliflower, also broccoli for winter use.
Make a sowing of late broccoli for use in spring.
Plant main crop of leeks.
Stop main vines of pumpkins, marrows, and cucumbers to encourage lateral growth.
Finish bedding out. Sow portulaca and plant out salvias.
Spray roses with lime sulphur and arsenate of lead, for mildew and caterpillar.
Use nicotine if aphis is present
Water roses with clean water, and liquid manure afterwards.
Keep chrysanthemums and dahlias tied up
Keep the stems of border carnations tied up and the beds clear of weeds. Layer clematis.
Thin fruits in their order of ripening.
Spray for codlin moth, and for ripe and brown rot.
Spray plums for leech with arsenate of lead,
Dust grapes with sulphur for mildew.
Spray gooseberries with Bordeaux for leaf spot.
Summer prune plums where necessary.
Cut out branches of stone fruits showing silver leaf disease.
Plant autumn flowering bulbs, such as eolehicum, belladonna lilies, hardy cyclamen, and sternbergia.
Chrysanthemums grown for large blooms should be potted for the last time.
JANUARY,
Under Glass,
Pot perpetual-flowering carnations; the final potting and stopping should be done this month.
Sow calceolarias, cinerarias, and primulas.
Well water and feed begonias, gloxinias, and ferns. Well ventilate the vinery.
Pot freesias, lachenalias, and other bulbs for early flowering.
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Out of Doors.
Plant cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and kale for winter use.
Sow lettuce in drills and thin out.
Sow radish, dwarf beans, silver beet, spinach, and carrots. Keep tomatoes sprayed, trimmed, and tied.
Plant celery in prepared trenches.
Commence bulb lifting; tulips should be lifted before the tops are quite dead. Do not leave them exposed to the attentions of the bulb fly.
Layer border carnations, and prepare new beds. Bud roses and fruit trees.
Stake, disbud, and tie dahlias and chrysanthemums. Feed and water as required.
Prepare ground for early flowering sweet peas.
Sow biennials, perennials, and spring flowering plants.
Keep the hoe going to procure a dust mulch, and prevent weeds growing.
Continue to spray for eodlin moth; a late spray of lime sulphur is of advantage in the control of brown rot of stone fruits.
Tie in new rods of loganberries.
Continue to thin fruit as required.
Summer prune fruit trees.
Thin out old flowering growths of rambler roses.
FEBRUARY.
Under Glass,
Sow cyclamen, cinerarias, primulas, schizanthus, and calceolarias.
Put in cuttings of pot hydrangeas.
Hydrangeas in pots should be placed in full sun to ripen the wood.
Sow winter flowering stocks, Iceland poppies, and Primula malacoides.
Out of Doors.
Plant cabbage and cauliflower when weather is favourable. Commence to earth up early planted celery. T
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PRACTICAL GARDENING
Spray cabbage with tar water or kerosene emulsion to keep away “fly.”
Lift and dry shallots and onions.
Sow dwarf beans.
Layer carnations and prepare beds for them.
Plant out perpetual carnations for winter flowering.
Sow winter flowering sweet peas.
Insert cuttings of geraniums, pentstemons, antirrhinums, etc.
Sow hollyhocks, aquilegias, Canterbury bells, primroses, anemones and ranunculi.
Sow seeds of perennials and biennials.
Spray roses for mildew.
Peed dahlias and chrysanthemums; keep them well staked and tied.
Lift early gladioli when foliage turns yellow
Plant daffodils and early flowering bulbs.
Continue spraying for codlin moth, plum and pear leech.
Continue summer pruning.
Prepare ground for strawberry planting.
Gather fruit as it matures.
Lift early crops of potatoes.
MARCH.
Under Glass.
Propagate bedding plants by cuttings and layers.
Pot primulas, cyclamen, and cinerarias into flowering pots.
Feed begonias with liquid manure.
Pot bulbs for winter flowering.
Out of Doors.
Plant Lilium candidum, anemone, and ranunculus.
Lift and plant rooted carnation layers.
Sow ten-week and beauty stocks, early flowering sweet peas.
Lift and replant narcissi and spring flowering bulbs.
Plant flag irises.
Sow hardy annuals.
Cut off faded blooms to prevent seed forming.
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A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
Prepare ground and sow new lawns.
Feed and disbud dahlias and chrysanthemums
Cut out old fruit rods of loganberries and raspberries.
Thin out the inside growth of gooseberries and currants Manure citrus trees. Spray with Bordeaux.
Gather up fallen and wormy fruit.
Sow silver beet, cabbage, early horn carrot, cauliflower, turnips, parsley, and onions.
Lift and store onions.
Barth up leeks and celery.
Plant late crops of celery and leeks. Sow dwarf beans.
APRIL.
Under Glass,
Insert cuttings of pentstemons, bedding calceolarias, zonal pelargoniums, verbenas, etc.
Dry off begonias and gloxinias.
Reduce water when weather is dull.
Stake and tie perpetual carnations.
Out of Doors.
Remove spent crops, dig vacant land, and sow down with green manuring crops.
Earth up celery and leeks; give liquid manure.
Lift late crops of potatoes and kumaras.
Store pumpkins, marrows, and melons.
Plant out antirrhinums, pentstemons, pansies, aquilegias, Canterbury bells, Iceland poppies, nemesias, hollyhocks, gaillardias, and myosotis.
Complete the planting of narcissus, anemone, and ranunculus.
Rose cuttings root well this month.
Put in cuttings of evergreen trees and shrubs.
Sow summer flowering sweet peas.
Plant ten-week and beauty stocks.
Gather fruit as it matures; put aside any damaged fruit for immediate use.
Pick up and destroy all diseased fruit.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
327
Keep orchard clean, and mark down any unprofitable trees for removal.
Prepare ground for strawberries, and for new orchards.
MAY.
Under Glass
Stake and tie perpetual-flowering carnations.
Dry off begonias, gloxinias, achimenes, etc
Keep a steady temperature; do not excite growth by heat.
Careful watering will be necessary now.
Give cinerarias, cyclamen, and primulas manure water when the pots are full of roots.
Out of Doors.
Dig and trench vacant land, clear off spent crops, and bury rubbish.
Apply lime to land if needed; sterilise soil for ground pests.
Sow broad beans; earth up celery and leeks as necessary. Hoe and thin autumn sown crops.
Plant cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce.
Dig over and manure rhubarb beds.
Lay and repair box edgings.
Insert cuttings of pansies, violas, and bedding calceolarias. Plant English and Spanish iris and ixias.
Shorten tops of dahlias preparatory to cutting down.
Plant evergreen trees and shrubs; this is the best month to transplant citrus fruits.
Commence planting deciduous fruit trees.
Plant out strawberries as soon as plants are available. Commence fruit tree pruning.
Do any root pruning required for any over-vigorous trees.
Put in cuttings of bush fruits.
Cut down asparagus.
JUNE.
Under Glass.
Bring in freesias and other potted bulbs to force.
Propagate bedding plants.
Ventilate when favourable; be careful with watering.
A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
328
Remove shading from the glass
Pot calceolarias, cinerarias, and cyclamen.
Commence to propagate perpetual-flowering carnations by cuttings.
Prune greenhouse climbers, also vines under glass
Out of Doors.
Plant cabbage, cauliflowers, etc.
Sow a few dwarf early peas, and plant a few early potatoes in early favoured districts.
Sow lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower.
Earth celery and leeks as required
Prepare ground for new asparagus beds, clean up the old beds, and give a dressing of manure.
Plant liliums.
Commence rose planting.
Plant beauty and ten-week stocks.
Lift and replant herbaceous perennials.
Prune climbing roses and ornamental trees and shrubs.
Leave pruning of spring flowering subjects till blooming is over.
Prune hydrangeas; thin out all weak growth. Trim hedges and plant new ones.
Weed and repair lawns.
Proceed with any alterations or reconstruction work. Plant strawberries and fruit trees.
Push on with pruning and spraying.
Look over stored fruit, and remove damaged specimens.
SOUTH ISLAND
JULY.
Under Glass.
Cut chrysanthemums down and put the plants in a cold frame close to the glass so as to obtain strong sturdy cuttings.
Sow seed of lobelia, antirrhinum, nemesia, calendula, sweet pea, tomato, cauliflower, and cabbage for planting out in spring.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
329
Prune grape vines, peaches, nectarines and apricots.
Vine borders requiring renovating should be attended to.
Climbers should be cleaned, regulated, and pruned.
Ventilation and watering must have careful attention, water being given only when absolutely required.
Force rhubarb, asparagus, and seakale.
Out of Doors.
Clear the ground of all exhausted crops; manure and dig vacant ground.
Continue to plant hardy trees and shrubs when conditions are favourable.
Prune fruit trees, except peach and nectarine.
Make preparations for hotbeds by gathering manure and leaves.
Repair and paint frames ready for use.
Put potatoes on end in shallow boxes to sprout.
AUGUST.
Under Glass,
Tuberous begonias and gloxinias should now be shaken out of their pots and placed in shallow boxes in light soil to start into growth.
Sow seed of begonias, gloxinias, streptocarpus, tender annuals and perennials.
Increase the stock of bedding plants by striking cuttings. Put in chrysanthemum cuttings.
Watering and ventilation should be increased as the weather grows warmer.
Sow celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons.
Prune bouvardias, fuchsias, and geraniums that have grown straggly.
Sow seeds of nemesia, antirrhinum, ursinia, and dimorphotheca.
Out of Doors.
Repair paths and drives and complete alterations.
Roll and repair lawns when the weather is fine and frost absent.
A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
330
Sow peas and broad beans, and other vegetables where a warm border can be given.
Plant early potatoes in small quantity on a warm sheltered border.
Make hotbeds for cucumbers, melons, and seed sowing. Finish the pruning of all fruit trees.
Prune peaches and nectarines, and spray with the winter Bordeaux before the buds start.
Prune roses.
Sow celery, cabbage, and cauliflower seed.
Finish the planting of fruit trees, ornamental trees, shrubs, and roses.
SEPTEMBER.
Under Glass.
Ee-pot and pot on plants as necessary.
Prick off seedling plants.
Plant out tomatoes for growing under glass early in the month, and pot those for planting outside, giving plenty of air and light.
Put bedding plants out into frames to harden.
Sow vegetable marrow and pumpkin seed.
Continue to sow seed of tender and half hardy annuals.
Pot off rooted chrysanthemum cuttings.
Strike coleus cuttings.
Re-pot ferns and palms. Vines in unheated houses should be starting into growth
Out of Doors.
Complete pruning of roses.
Give attention to herbaceous borders, dividing the plants where necessary, and thinning out excessive growth.
Plant violets and gladioli.
Sow r the main crop vegetables.
Plant early potatoes, cabbage, and cauliflower.
Sow celery for main crop.
Keep the hoe in constant use to destroy weeds and to maintain a surface tilth.
Sow hardy annuals.
Graft fruit trees.
331
PRACTICAL GARDENING
OCTOBER.
Under Glass.
Continue potting and re-potting plants as necessary.
Increase ventilation and moisture with the rising temperature.
Harden off tender bedding plants.
Thoroughly harden off tomato plants for planting outside, keeping the lights off on mild nights.
Growing plants will require constant attention.
Disbud vines and keep a genial atmosphere in the vinery
Keep constant watch for insect and fungoid pests, and spray or fumigate early.
As azaleas go out of flower pick off the old flower spikes to prevent seeding, syringe the plants and keep them in a warm moist atmosphere until growth is completed. Then place them in a sheltered position out of doors.
Out of Doors.
Sow peas and broad beans to maintain a succession.
Sow French and runner beans towards the end of the month.
Plant potatoes, cabbage, and cauliflower.
Sow vegetable marrow and pumpkin seed.
Thin out seedling crops as soon as fit to handle.
Rub off superfluous shoots on fruit trees and roses.
Keep the hoe in use among growing crops.
Thin out the shoots of herbaceous plants, and stake where necessary.
Thin out the old shoots of chrysanthemum plants, and put out fresh plants.
NOVEMBER.
Under Glass.
With the increasing sun power shading will probably be necessary on plant houses.
Attention to watering and ventilation must be constant.
Cucumbers and melons should be trained and stopped as necessary. The growth of these plants should now be free and strong.
A CALENDAR OF CARDEN WORK
332
Sow cineraria, primula, and calceolaria seed.
Pot on young plants as necessary.
Thin grapes and tie down the shoots.
Ke-pot amaryllis after flowering, and encourage growth by a warm moist temperature.
Out of Doors.
Plant out tomatoes, vegetable marrows, pumpkins, and ridge cucumbers.
Sow vegetable seed for continuation of supply.
Sow broccoli seed early in the month.
Sow seed of biennials, as Canterbury bells, sweet williams, stocks, wallflowers, etc., in prepared beds for autumn planting.
All bedding plants may be planted out.
Keduce excessive growth on fruit trees, and thin out crops where they are too heavy.
Keep climbing plants trained and tied in
DECEMBER.
Under Glass.
Pot on seedling begonias and gloxinias.
Keep cinerarias, primulas, cyclamens, and calceolarias in a cool frame facing south, ventilating freely.
Tie up tomatoes and keep all lateral growths rubbed off.
Give ample ventilation in plant houses and keep a buoyant atmosphere not deficient in moisture.
Put pelargoniums outside after flowering, in a sunny position, and reduce watering.
Finish thinning grapes and keep the laterals stopped
Out of Doors.
Keep the garden tidy and free from weeds.
Stake and tie up herbaceous plants.
Roll and mow lawns frequently
Keep a constant watch for insect and fungoid pests, and spray before they become established.
Lift daffodils and other spring bulbs when the foliage has turned yellow, and clean and replant, or store in a cool place.
282
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Continue to sow peas and beans for succession, and keep up a plentiful supply of vegetables and salading.
Plant celery, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and leeks.
Cease cutting asparagus.
Chrysanthemums should be put into their flowering pots.
Keep the hoe going constantly
Sow wallflower and polyanthus primrose.
JANUARY.
Under Glass.
Keep the greenhouse gay, cutting off decaying flowers and discoloured leaves.
Free ventilation and an ample supply of water are necessary.
Pot on cinerarias, calceolarias, and primulas, and keep growing in a cool frame.
Vineries where grapes are colouring should be well ventilated. Avoid draughts and do not close the ventilators too much at night.
Cut back pelargoniums and keep dry until growth starts. Syringing the plants daily will assist this.
Young cyclamens should be put into their flowering pots. Prick out seedlings of polyanthus primrose in boxes.
Out of Doors.
If the weather is dry watering and mulching will require attention, and a loose tilth should be maintained amongst all growing crops.
Make a small sowing of carrots and onions.
Prick into beds seedlings of biennials for autumn planting in the borders, giving plenty of space between the plants.
Keep the flowers of sweet peas cut to prevent the forma tion of seed pods.
Maintain a succession of vegetables and clear off spent crops.
Layer carnations.
Plant leeks, celery, broccoli, and cabbage.
Budding should be done this month,
Line out wallflower seedlings on well manured borders.
A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
334
FEBRUARY.
Under Glass. Watering and ventilation must be constantly attended to.
Shake out and re-pot cyclamens.
Pot bulbs of freesias, hyacinths, early tulips, and lachenalias.
Keep the greenhouse bright, and remove plants as they go out of flower.
Out of Doors.
Cut out old raspberry canes and tie up the selected young canes to stakes.
In the vegetable garden watering may be necessary to maintain vegetables in growing condition.
Onions as they ripen should be pulled, dried, and stored. Apricots, peaches, and nectarines on walls will require attention. Stop and regulate the shoots.
Earth up celery
Chrysanthemums grown for large blooms will now be forming crown buds, which should be taken according to the variety.
Line out seedlings of sweet williams, Canterbury bells, forget-me-nots, and double daisies.
MARCH.
Under Glass.
Pot spring flowering bulbs, such as daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths.
Re-pot pelargoniums and geraniums.
Pot cinerarias into flowering pots,
Ripen off slowly amaryllis, gloxinias, and achimenes. Cuttings of geraniums and other bedding plants may now be taken.
Sow schizanthus, clarkia, and godetia seed for spring flowering.
Out of Doors.
Plant daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs.
Sow sweet peas and hardy annuals.
Plant out seedling biennials and perennials in their flowering positions towards the end of the month.
PRACTICAL GARDENING
335
Harvest onions.
Earth up celery.
Pick and store apples and pears as they mature.
Gather fallen fruit, and destroy diseased specimens.
Sow onions, carrots, turnips, spinach, cabbage, and lettuce.
Clear away exhausted crops, and keep the hoe going amongst growing ones, destroying weeds before they ripen seed. Put in cuttings of pansies and violas.
APRIL.
Under Glass.
Box up bulbs of Spanish and English iris for early flower under glass.
Pot up clumps of astilbe varieties, for forcing.
Chrysanthemums in pots should now be housed.
Put in cuttings of geraniums, pentstemons, and calceolarias, and place in a cool frame.
Where a system of heating is used the apparatus should be looked over to see that it is in good working order, as the temperature is very variable this month.
Out of Doors.
Dig potatoes.
Dig beetroot and carrots, and store in dry earth or sand.
Gather and burn fallen fruit tree leaves and make a compost heap of all vegetable refuse and spent crops.
Plant out carnation layers.
Insert cuttings of currants, gooseberries, roses, and shrubs.
Root prune fruit trees if necessary.
Ground should now be prepared for any proposed planting of fruit trees.
MAY.
Under Glass.
Plants will now require much less water and moisture in the house.
Calceolarias should be put into their flowering pots, and kept close to the glass in a cold house or frame.
A CALENDAR OF GARDEN WORK
336
Bulbs that have been potted and placed under ashes should be kept under supervision, and brought into the house to flower as fit.
The hardier plants that have gone out of bloom should be put out into frames to make room for winter and spring blooming plants.
Out of Doors.
As soon as the leaves have fallen fruit trees may be pruned, except peaches and nectarines.
Sow culinary peas and broad beans about the beginning of the month.
Cut off asparagus tops, and lightly mulch the bed with half-rotted stable manure.
Dahlias and gladioli should be lifted and stored in a cool place.
Cuttings of bush fruits, roses, and hardy shrubs may still be inserted.
Spray peaches, nectarines, and apricots with the winter formula Bordeaux, and any other trees that have been attacked with fungoid disease during the season.
If the ground is in good condition the planting of fruit trees, ornamental trees, and shrubs may now be proceeded with.
JUNE.
Under Glass.
Bulbs that have been placed under ashes should now all be fit for bringing into the house.
Sow seeds of tomatoes for planting under glass. Sow sweet pea seed.
Ventilate freely when the weather is bright and sunny, but do not admit cold winds. Do not keep the temperature too high by fire heat on dull days or at night. The day temperature should be always in advance of the night temperature.
286
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Out of Doors.
Dig and manure all vacant ground.
Turn the soil up as rough as possible, to expose it to the sweetening influence of frost and air.
Push on with pruning and spraying, but do not spray if it is likely to freeze soon after.
During open weather planting can be proceeded with.
It is a golden rule to keep off the soil when it is sodden and wet.
Clean up all garden rubbish; any that cannot be burned should be trenched in deeply.
Finally earth up celery on dry days. If the soil is heavy place some light dry soil next to the plant; finish off with straw or litter at the top where heavy frosts are prevalent.
Pick over onions in store; keep cool, but protect from frost.
Draw earth to the stems of beans and peas above ground, to protect them.
In case of frost a portion of the parsley bed should have a frame placed over it.
APPENDICES
338
APPENDICES
THE MIXING OF FERTILISERS,
The term artificial manures includes many chemical as well as natural products that have gone through some process of manufacture, like bones, rock phosphates, blood and bone, or fish manures.
As they are highly concentrated, they are usually applied to the soil in small dressings, one or two ounces per square yard, and hoed in lightly.
A few are applied in autumn or winter in advance of cropping, like basic slag, kainit, or potash salts. Most of them are applied before cropping time, and some are so soluble, like nitrate of soda, that they are used when the plants are in growth.
Most of them will scorch plants if they come into contact with the leaves.
The manures that can be mixed are indicated by plain lines. The lines marked xxxxxxx indicate fertilisers which may be mixed if used soon after mixing.
Those marked ----- should not be mixed.
Fertilisers which become lumpy are difficult to work with; the lumps should be broken down before the fertilisers are applied.
Wet sticky materials may be mixed with dry sand, when the mixture will be found much easier to apply.
339
PRACTICAL GARDENING
When artificial manures are applied, it is necessary to take into consideration the nature of the soil itself. A fertile soil contains much humus; for a certain number of years it is possible to get good crops from such soil by means of artificials alone, but the humus content decreases, and slowly but surely the soil refuses to respond to artificials. The humus content must be restored, either by applying animal manures, or by sowing green manuring crops, such as lupins, vetches, mustard, etc., and digging them in.
CALCULATING QUANTITIES OF FERTILISERS.
In calculating quantities of fertilisers to use in the garden, it ia convenient to measure by the spoonful.
The spoonfuls should be well piled up when the quantities will represent approximately the following weights: —
1 teaspoonful equals about $ ounce. 1 dessertspoonful equals about 1 ounce. 1 tablespoonful equals about 2 ounces.
Owing to the difference in bulk and density, and to its greater degree of concentration, sulphate of potash should not be piled up in the spoon quite as much as superphosphate or nitrate of soda.
Bone dust and blood and bone will probably require to be piled up as much as possible.
These minor points can easily be ascertained by trying the weights of one or two spoonfuls.
It is interesting to know that: —
1 teaspoonful per square yard equals about 150 lb. per acre.
1 dessertspoonful per square yard equals about 300 lb. per acre.
1 tablespoonful per square yard equals about 600 lb. per acre.
A good serviceable stock mixture to suit most soils and plants is recommended as follows: —
Basic superphosphate.. 5 parts
Nitrate of soda or
Bone dust 5 parts
Sulphate of Ammonia 2 parts
Sulphate of Potash .. 2 parts
The mixture could be applied with safety at the rate of twe tablespoonfuls per square yard, and well worked into the soil.
APPENDICES.
SPECIAL MANURES FOR FRUIT TREES,
290
PRACTICAL GARDENING
TABLE OF MANURES FOR VEGETABLES
APPENDICES
342
MANURES FOR SPECIAL SUBJECTS.
SPRAYING AS A MEANS OF CONTROLLING PESTS AND DISEASES.
From the point of view of efficient control the numerous pests and diseases to which garden crops are subject, are most conveniently divided for the purpose of spraying into three main sections—
(1) Sap Sucking Insects.
(2) Biting or Chewing Insects.
(3) Fungoid Diseases.
Sap sucking insects are those which live most of their life with the beak inserted into the tissues of the plant, causing a heavy drain of sap, debilitating to the growth. This section includes such pests as aphis, scales, thrips, red spider, etc., and are best dealt with by means of contact sprays, such as nicotine, soap, kerosene emulsion, oil sprays, or one of the many proprietary brands now obtainable.
Biting and chewing insects.—These live by devouring the foliage of plants, and include the various kinds of caterpillars responsible for so much damage, and grubs which feed on plants both above and below the surface. The best control of these is afforded by spraying with a poison spray, the most widely used for this purpose being arsenate of lead. A thin film of poison being distributed over the leaf surface of the host plant, results in the destruction of the pest by poisoning.
Fungoid diseases.—Fungi are a low form of plant life, parasitic on other plants, and measures of control are of necessity preventive
292
PRACTICAL GARDENING
more than curative. Of the number of fungicides obtainable the two moat widely used are Bordeaux mixture and Lime-Sulphur. Sulphur finely powdered and Liver of Sulphur also have advantages in the control of specific diseases, but in all cases the treatment must be applied at the most vulnerable stage in the life history of the fungoid disease, and this usually occurs when the spores of the disease are being liberated. The minute spores of disease are carried by air or water, and alighting on a plant in a moist condition, the spore germinates much in the same manner as a seed, thrusting out a process which enters the tissues of the plant. It is obvious, then, if the plant is covered with a protective film of fungicide, the spore is killed on contact. Once the disease has gained an entrance to the tissues of the plant, spraying is of little value, until the next generation of spores is being produced.
SPRAYING TABLE
APPENDICES
344
345
PRACTICAL GARDENING
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF POPULAR AND BOTANICAL NAMES OF PLANTS,
Popular Name.
Botanical Name.
Aaron’s Beard Hypericum
Aaron s Rod .. .. .. .. Verbascum
Adam’s Needle Yucca
Adder’s Tongue .. .. .. Ophioglossum
Adder’s Violet .. .. .. Goodyera
Alder .. .. .. .. .. Alnus glutinosa
—•• • • •• •• •• yum ILU-'U Algerian Violet Iris stylosa
Alligator Pear Persea
American Aloe Agave
Angel’s Tears .. .. .. .. Narcissus triandrus
Ash .. .. .. .. .. Fraxinus excelsior
Aspen .. .. .. .. .. Popvlus tremula
Bayonet Plant Aciphylla
Bead Plant .. .. .. .. Nertera depressa
Bean Tree Catalpa
Bearbind .. .. .. .. .. Calystegia
Bear’s Breech Acanthus
Beech .. .. .. .. .. Fagus sylvatica
Bellflower .. .. .. .. Campanula
Bergamot Monarda
Bladder Senna Colutea
Bleeding Heart Dielytra spectabUis
Blessed Thistle .. .. .. Cnicus benedictus
Blue Cedar Cedrus atlanticas glauca
Blue Lace Flower Didiscus ccerulea
Box Elder .. .. .. .. Acer negundo
Boxthorn .. .. .. .. Lycium horridum
Bridal Wreath Francoa ramosa
Bugle Lily .. .. .. .. Watsonia
Bush Honeysuckle Weigela
Butchers’ Broom .. Ruscus aculeatus
Butterfly Bush Buddleia varidbUis
Cadre Lily .. .. .. .. Schizostylis coccinea
Calico Bush .. Kalmia latifolia
Californian Fuchsia Zauschneria
Californian Poppy Eschscholtzia
Canary Creeper Tropaeolum
Candle Plant .. Kleinia
Cape gooseberry Physalis
guuov/uv/wj •• -• •• * .. Catmint Nepeta mussinii
Cedar Cedrus deodara
Cherry Laurel Prunus spp.
Cherry Pie Heliotropium
duckweed Mouse Ear .. .. Cerostium
Chinese Lantern Physalis franchetti
Christmas Rose Helleborus /T - . J? * 1 T) stf st .tt tll St
Cinquefoil .. .. .. ’.. Potentilla
Coral Tree Erythrina
Cornelian Cherry Comus mas
vjuiucuau vuciij •• .. •• w•• Corn Lily Ixia
APPENDICES
295
Popular Name
Botanical Name.
Cotton Thistle .. .. .. .. Onopordon
Cranberry .. .. .. .. Vaccinium
Creeping Jenny Lysimachia
Creeping Sailor Saxifraga sarmentosa
Cross of Jerusalem .. Lychnis chalcedonica
Cushion Pink .. .. .. Silene acaulis
Daisy, Barberton .. .. .. Gerbera
Daisy, Swan River Brachycome iberidifolia
Day Lily .. Eemerocallis
Deadly Nightshade Atropa belladonna
Dog’s Tooth Violet Erythronium
Dutch Honeysuckle Lonicera belgica
Dyer’s Greenweed Genista tinctoria
Egg Plant .. .. .. Solanum melogena
Elder Sambucus nigra
Elephant’s Ear .. .. .. Begonia Bex
Elm .. .. .. .. TJlmus campestris
Evening Primrose .. .. Oenothera
Evergreen Oak .. .. .. Quercus ilex
False Acacia .. .. .. .. Bobinia
Feather Grass .. .. Eragrostis
Fire bush Embothrium coccineum
Flame Flower Tropaeolum speciosum
Foam Flower Tiarella cordifolia
Forget-me-not Myosotis
Fringe Tree Chionanthus
Globe Flower .. .. .. .. Trollius
Globe Thistle Echinops ritro
Glory of the Sun Leucocoryne ixioides
Glory Pea .. .. .. .. .. Clianthus
Goat’s Rue Galega officinalis
Golden Chain .. .. .. .. Laburnum
Golden Feather .. .. .. Pyrethrum aureum
Hawthorn Crataegus oxyacantha
Holly Hex aquifolium
Hornbeam Carpinus betulus
Insignis pine .. .. .. .. Pinus radiata
Ivy .. .. .. .. .. .. Eedera helix
Kidney Vetch .. .. .. .. Anthyllis
Lamb’s Ear Stachys lanata
Larch Larix Europea
Leadwort Plumbago capensis
Lombardy Poplar Populus nigra , var. pyramidaiis
London Pride Saxifraga umbrosa
Loosestrife .. .. .. Lysimachia
Love-in-a-mist .. .. •• Nigella damascena
Love-lies-bleeding Amaranthus caudatus
Lungwort .. .. Pulmonaria
Macrocarpa .. .. Cupressus macrocarpa
Maidenhair Tree .. Ginkgo biloba
Maiden Pink .. Dianthus deltoides
Mallow, Jew’s Kerria japonica
Mallow Musk .. .. Malva moschata
347
PRACTICAL GARDENING
Popular Name.
Botanical Name.
Maltese Cross .. .. Lychnis chalcedonica
Manna Ash .. .. „ Fraxinus ornus
.. .. .. .. j. UIU.US Mask Flower Alonsoa
May Weed .. .. .. Matricaria
Meadow Sweet Spiraia filipendula
— ■ * .. .. .. .. Jbliycuctiuu Mexican Cigar Flower Cuphea ignea
Mexican Orange Blossom Choisya ternata
l* /(UtU Mexican Poppy Argemone
Milk Wort Poly gala
Monkshood Aconitum
Monkey Flower Mimulus
Monkey Puzzle .. .. Araucaria imbricata
Morning Glory Ipomaea
Moss Pink Phlox subulata
Mountain Ash .. .. .. Pyrus aucuparia
.. .. y > **o *****' CCjJ Mountain Spinach Atriplex
Mullein .. .. .. .. .. Verbascum
Nankeen Lily .. .. .. Lilium testaceum
Navelwort Omphalodes
.. .. .. ~ yyiiiynuivuca Night scented Stock Matthiola
Oak .. .. .. .. .. .. Quercus pedunculate
Old Man Artemesia viridis
Old Man ’s Beard Clematis vitalba
Paper Birch .. .. .. .. Betula papyrifera
—x ■ • ■ ■ v • ***** i; & i u Pearl Bush .. .. .. .. Exochorda grandiflora
.. .. .. .. u,u, y i uauijiUTU Pincushion Scabiosa
a luiuomuu .. .. .. .. scaoiosa Plantain Lily .. .. .. Funkia sieboldtii
Pokeweed Phytolacca
* v~v.. V v U .. .. ~ .. .. jrnyLumvcu Portugal Broom Cytisus albus
.. .. .. Uti Purple cone flower Echinacea
- •• •• JJ/ C n LIIULCU, Eed-hot-poker Kniphofia
.. .. n.mpnojia Red-ink-plant Phytolacca
•• •• •• •• J. nyiuiuvuu, Redwood .. .. .. .. .. Sequoia sempervirens
Rest Harrow Ononis
Rock Cress Aubrietia
Rose Campion .. .. .. .. Agrostemma
•• •• •• •• -ay / uot t inmu Rose of Sharon .. .. .. .. Hypericum
vy*. ~ .. .. .. jA.yyci ivuin Rowan Tree .. .. .. .. Pyrus aucuparia
- •• •• j. y ' I*o uuvu^/u/ Royal Fern .. .. .. .. Osmunda reqalis
■“'V *** .. .. .. .. waiuunuu Tcytuiis Russian Vine .. .. .. .. Polygonum baldschuanicum
St. Bruno’s Lily Anthericum liliastrum
St. John’s Wort .. Hypericum
St. Joseph’s Lily Lilium candidum
o liu; .. .. .. juuium cunuiuum Scarborough Lily Valletta purpurea
Scorpion Iris Iris alata
Sea Lavender Statice latifolia
Sea Pink .. .. .. Armeria
Sea Poppy .. .. .. .. Glaucium flavum
.. .. .. .. urLuuviuiu jiuvum Self Heal .. .. .. .. .. Prunella
•• •• •• •• •• J. I unc (lt* Sensitive Plant .. .. .. Mimosa pudica
Service Berry .. .. .. Amelanchier canadensis
Sheep’s Scabious Jasione
Siberian Crab Pyrus baccata
APPENDICES
348
Popular Name.
Botanical Name.
Siberian Iris .. .. .. .. Iris siberica
Silkweed .. .. .. .. Asclepias curassavica
.. .. .. .. ly Ul UOOII VlVlt Silky Oak .. .. .. .. Grevillea robusta
Silver Birch Betula alba
Smoke Tree .. .. Bhus cotinus
Sneezewort Selenium
Snowball Tree .. .. .. Viburnum opulus
Sowbread Cyclamen
Spanish Broom Spartium Junceum
Speedwell .. .. .. .. .. Veronica
Spiderwort .. Tradescantia virginica
Spring Snowflake Leucojum vernum
Spurge .. .. .. Euphorbia
r 6 •• •• •• •• jjj uynul uut Star of the Veldt Dimorphotheca
Stonecrop .. .. Sedum acre
Strawberry Tree Arbutus unedo
Sumach .. .. .. .. .. Bhus typhina
Sundew .. .. .. Drosera
Sweet Gum .. .. .. Liquidambar
Tassel Flower Cacalia
Teasel .. .. .. .. Dipsacus
Thrift Armeria
Tickseed .. .. .. Coreopsis
Toad flax .. .. Linaria cymbalaria
Torch Lily .. .. .. Kniphofia
Traveller’s Joy .. .. Clematis vitalba
Tree of Heaven .. Ailanthus glandulosa
Trumpet flower .. .. Bignonia grandiflora
Tulip Tree .. .. .. Liriodendron tulipifera
r •• •• wuwiui un vu/Lifjij it Turk’s Cap Lily Lilium Martagon
Viper’s Bugloss Echium
Virginian Stock Malcolmia
Water Hyacinth Eichhornia
Wattle .. .. Acacia
Wax Flower .. .. Soya carnosa
Winter Jasmine .. Jasminum nudiflorum
■ • v «o iv uu yjiyji u lib Winter Sweet .. .. .. Chimonanthus fragrans
Witch Hazel .. .. .. .. Eamamelis
Wood ruff .. .. .. Asperula
Wormwood .. .. .. .. Artemesia Absinthium
M Vimi.uuu .. .. .. .. XL! ICUIVOLtt Xt USZTUfUUITI Yellow pine (Western) .. .. Finns ponderosa
349
PRACTICAL GARDENING
TREES AND SHRUBS WITH BRILLIANT AUTUMN FOLIAGE.
Average
Name. Height. Colour of Foliage,
ft. Acer circinatum 30 red and orange
japonicum 20 crimson
„ jitpumcum .. cumsuu „ palmatum 6 rich red and brown
„ ——— .. - —— Araelanchier canadensis 10 orange scarlet
„ sanguinea 8 crimson
Aronia melanocarpa 5 orange and scarlet
Berberia Thunbergii 3 rich red
„ vulgaris 8 rich red
„ Wilsonae 6 rich red
Oarya alba .. .. .. 70 rich yellow
tomentosa 60 rich yellow
Cornua florida 8 red and crimson
„ sanguinea 6 red
Crataegus Carrierei 16 scarlet
„ crus-galli 30 red and orange
» ■■ ”” Enkianthus japonicus 4 crimson
Euonymus alatus .. 6 rosy scarlet
„ europaeus 8 purplish red
Pothergilla major 7 yellow
Ginkgo biloba .. .. 30 pale gold
Gleditschia triacanthos 9 yellow
Liquidambar styraciflua 30 purple red
Liriodendron tulipifera 40 yellow
Oxydendron arboreum 4 red
aiuuit/uui .. x i vv» Parrotia persica 30 gold and crimson
Pistacia chinensis 70 crimson
Prunus avium .. 30 red
Pseudolarix Fortune! .. 40 golden
Pyrus arbutifolia 8 red
„ aucuparia 20 red and gold
n f Quereus coccinea 40 scarlet
„ heterophylla 40 red
„ palustris 40 scarlet
Rhododendron (Azalea group) 4 red
Rhus cotonoides .. 5 orange and crimson
„ glabra .. 6 red
„ t, —- ~ - „ typhina .. .. 5 red
} f •• •• „ Yernix 6 red
Ribes aurea .. 5 crimson and yellow
Spiraea Thunbergi 4 red
Taxodium distichum 40 rich brown
Vaccinium corymbosura 3 red
AUtIUIUIU WIJIUUUOUIU .. U Ivu „ pennsylvanicum 3 red
n r v ““ u ; * • ~ Viburnum opulus .. 8 red
Vitis amurensis .. climber crimson and purple
„ armata Veitchii .. .. „ crimson
„ Coignetiae ~ crimson
jp •• ff mmouu „ quinquefolia .. .. „ crimson
„ vitacea „ rich crimson
APPENDICES
350
TREES AND SHRUBS WITH COLOURED BERRIES
Average
Name. Height. Colour.
ft.
Acer pseudoplatanus 40 red
Actinidia chinensis vine reddish
Arbutus unedo 12 orange-red
Aucuba japonica 6 red
Berberis sparkler 6 red
Berberis, Winter cheer 6 red
Clematis vitalba vine grey
Clerodendron Fargesii 6 blue
Coprosma acerosa .. 2 blue-green
(vvva uou .. vv** „ many species 6 orange and scarlet
Cornus capitata 12 red
Cotoneaster horizontalis 2 bright red
„ Simonsii 6 bright red
Crataegus Carrierei .. .. .. 8 scarlet
„ tanacetifolia 15 yellow
Daphne Mezereum .. 3 red and yellow
Euonymus europaeus 6 red and orange
Hippophse rhamnoides .. 5 orange
iUUiUUVLUVO Ilex aquifolium .. .. 15 red
Pernettya mucronata 4 purple „ 4:is„i:.. o —„„
Pyracantha angustifolia .. 8 orange
„ coccinea .. 8 scarlet
Pyrus, crabs —John Downie 12 orange scarlet
„ gorgeous .. 9 crimson
„ Aldanhamensis .. 12 purple
„ rotundifolia 12 orange
„ aucuparia .. .. .. 15 red
Rosa, sp. .. .. 6 red
Rosa spinossima .. .. .. 3 purple
Euscus aculeatus .. 3 red
Sambucus canadensis .. 6 red
„ racemosa .. .. 6 red
Skimmia japonica .. .. 3 red
Symphoricarpus racemosus .. 5 white ini ..4: ,i t n K
Viburnum rhytidophyllum .. .. 5 red
„ Sieboldi 5 red
Vitis heterophylla vine porcelain blue
PRACTICAL GARDENING
351
SWEETLY-PERFUMED FLOWERING SHRUBS.
APPENDICES
352
SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS.
353
PRACTICAL GARDENING
HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS FOR HERBACEOUS BORDERS.
APPENDICES
354
LIST OF NEW ZEALAND FERNS.
The following is a list of native ferns which would be suitable for cultivation in a greenhouse, a glass or bush fernery, or a moist shady dell. Adiantum sethiopicum, A. affine, A. formosura, A. hispidulum, Asplenium bulberiferum, A. Colensoi, A. flabellifolium, A. flaccidum, A. Hookerianum, A. lucidum, A. obtusatum; Blechnum (Lomaria) Banksii, B, capense, B. discolor, B. durum, B. filiforrae, B. fluviatile, B. lanceolatura, B. Pattersoni, B. vulcanicum; Cyathca dealbata, C. medullaris; Dicksonia antarctica, D. fibrosa, D. squarrosa; Doodia media; Dryopteris glabella, D. hispida, D, punctata; Gleichenia circinata, G. Cunninghamii, G. flabellata; Hemitelia Smithii; Histiopteris (Pteris) incisa, P. macilenta, P. scabcrula, P. tremula; Hymenophyllum dilatatum, H. flabellatum, H. multifidum, H. pulcherrimum, H. rarum; Hypolcpis distans, H. tenuifolium, Leptolepis (Davallia) Novae-Zelandia*; Lcptopteris (Todea) barbara, L. hymenophylloides, L. superba; Lindsaya cuneata; Loxsoma Cunninghamii; Marattia fraxinea; Pellaea rotundifolia; Poesia scaberula, Polypodium dictyopteris, P. Nov»Zelandi®, P. pustulatum; Polystichum adiantiforme, P. Eichardi, P. vestitum, Pteris tremula, P. macilenta.
INDEX.
A
Acacias, 118
Acalypha, 165, 168
Achimenes, 165
Adiantums, 166
Alectryon excelsum (Titoki), 132
Almond, 115, 227
Alpine plants, 70; New Zealand, 131, 140-2
Amaryllis Belladonna, 70
Ammoniated carbonate of copper, 263
Ampelopsis hederacea, 128
Anemones, pollination of, 21; 65; in borders, 70
Annuals in greenhouse, 155
Antirrhinums, 55, 56, 57
Aphis, 256
Apple, crab, 115; 227-8; flowering, 299
Apricot, 228
Arsenate of lead, 263
Artichokes, Chinese and Globe, 180; Jerusalem, 182
Asparagus plumosa, 160, 168; vegetable, 182-4
Aspidistras, 160
/lopiuiatids, n. Asters, 54, 59
Autumn foliage, 298
Azaleas, deciduous, 63, 125; evergreen, 125
Blood and bone manure, 17, 54; See Fertilisers
Bog Plants, 75, 78
Bone meal, 17, 54
Bordeaux mixture, 263
Borders, herbaceous, plans for 81, 82
Borecole, 189
Boronia, 119
Botanical and popular names of plants, list of, 294-7
Bougainvilleas, 165, 168
Brachyglottis, 136
Broccoli, 189
Brooms, 119
Brussels Sprouts, 190
Budding, 34-37
Buddleias, 119
Bulb Border, 70
Bulbs. 64-70, 161-2
Burgundy Mixture, 263
Bush fruits, manure for, 19
Bush roses, 39; pruning of, 44
C
Cabbage, 190; red, 191; aphis, 261; moth, 261
Calceolarias, 159
Calendar of Garden Work, 266286
Camellias, 119
B
a Bamboo garden, 127
iJrtIUUUU gdIUCU, 1 <6/ Bark ringing of fruit tree, 224
Bean aphis, 261
Beans, Broad, 184; Butter, 188;
French or Kidney, 187; Haricot, 188; Runner, 186; Wax Pod, 188
Bedding plants, propagation of, 27; hardening off, 58
Beet. 188-9
Begonias, 147-150; leaf cuttings of, 164; Rex, 165
Berberis, 118
Canterbury bells, 56
Cape Gooseberry, 192
Capsicums, 192
Carmichaelias, 136
Carnations, 106-109
Carrots, 192, 193
Cascade chrysanthemums, 153
Cauliflower, 191-2
Celeriac, 195
Celery, 193-5
Celmisias, 141
Chemical manures, 17-19
Cherry, flowering, 115; fruit tree, 229-330
Cherry Slug, 256
Biennials, hardy, 55
Chestnuts, 115, 237
Blackberry, 229
Chicory, 195
Black spot, 256
Chinese Gooseberry, 230
Blanching celery, 194; endive lettuce, 197; seakale, 216
Chives, 198
Choko, 195
304
305
INDEX
Dwarf polyantha roses, 40; pruning and spraying of, 46; named varieties, 53
Chrysanthemums, raised from cuttings, 26; tying up, 84; in greenhouse, 150-4
Cinerarias, 157
E
Citrus fruits, 231-2
Clark, Mr. Allister, rose breeder, 39
Eel Worm, 258
Egg plant, 197
Clarkias, 156
Endive lettuce, 197
ioo Clematis, 128-130
Epacris, 127
Clianthus puniceus (Kaka beak), 137
Ericas (Heaths), 126
Escallonia hedge, 2, 5; 120
Espalier fruit trees, 223
Climbing Plants, 128-131; in greenhouse, 165, 168
Euphorbia, 165
XKJyJ Evergreen trees, 114
Climbing roses, 2, 39; pruning of, 44; named varieties, 53
Exhibition, roses, 47; bulbs, 69; gladioli, 96; vegetables, 177-8; leeks, 199; onions, 203; parsnips, 205
Club Root, 261-2
Cobs. 237
Codlin moth, 255, 256
Coleworts, 191
Compost heap, 14; box for, 16; constituents, 17
Cordons, 223
Cor dy line australis (Cabbage tree), 132-3
Corn (Sweet), 195
Cotoneasters, 119
Crataegus (hawthorn), 115
Crazy paving, 2, 3, 6
Cress and mustard, 196
Crocuses, 161
Cucumber, 196
Cupressus macrocarpa, 4; 113 Currants, Red and White, 232; Black. 233
Cuttings, how to make, 24-28; of roses, 51; of violas, 110; soil for, 145; of chrysanthemums, 150; currant, 232; gooseberry, 232, 235
Cyclamens, 158
D
Dacrophyllums (Grass trees) 137
Dacrydium cupressinum (red pine), 115, 133
Daffodils. 64, 68-70, 161
Dahlias, raised from cuttings, 26, 102; cultivation of, 101104; kinds of, 105
Daphne, 120
Deciduous trees, 115
Delphiniums, 88-90
Designing a garden, 1, 2
Deutzia, 120
Double-digging, 11
Dwarf growing perennials, 87
F
Fan-shaped trees, 222, 223
Farmyard manure, 14. 15
Ferns, New Zealand, 142; list of, 303; hardy, 160; in greenhouse, 165-7
Fertilisation of seed, 20; carnations, 108
Fertilisers, 14-19; how to distribute, 174; mixing of, 287; calculating quantities, 288; for fruit trees, 289; for vegetables, 290; for chrysanthemums, hedges, lawns and roses, 291
Fig, 234
Filberts, 237
Flame flower, 130
Flower beds, 54-62; various arrangements of flowers in beds, 54-5
Foliage plants for cool greenhouse, 160
Forcing, bulbs, 160-2; vegetables, 176; rhubarb, 213; seakale, 215
Forget-me-nots, 56
Formaldehyde, 263
Forsythias, 120
Freesias, 70, 161, 162
Fritillarias, 67
Fruit Garden, 221-252
Fuchsia excorticata (native fuchsia), 133
Fuchsias, in greenhouse, 160
Fumigating, 254
Fungicides, 263
Fungoid diseases, checked by potash manure, 18
357
PRACTICAL GARDENING
G
Hydrangeas, raised from cuttings, 26; cultivation, 121; in greenhouse, 154
Galtonia candicans, 96
Garden, in the making. 1-14
uaraen, in me maxing, i-i 4 * Garlic, 197
I
Geraniums, 130; in greenhouse, 155
Inarching, 34, 252
Insect and Fungoid Pests, 253263
Gesnerias, 165
Gladioli. 94-96
Gloxinias, 150, 163; leaf cuttings of. 164
Godetias, 155, 156
Gooseberry, Chinese, 230; bush fruit, 234, 235
Grafting, 31-34
Grape fruit, 231
Grape Hyacinths, 67, 161
Grape Vine Mildew, 256
Grass Grubs, 259
Grasses, Ornamental, 62
Grass trees, 137
Green Fly, 259
Greenhouse, 145-172; heating, 147; plants for heated, 162; pests, 260
Green manure, 14 r' ;n ioi ic,
Grevilleas, 121, 160
Griselina (broadleaf), 133 Guano, 17
Guava, 236
H
Half-hardy Annuals, 56-9
Hardy Annuals, 59-62
Hardy biennials, 55
Hardv herbaceous perennials, 88; list of. 302-3
Heaths, 126
Heating the greenhouse, 147
x x t.a ung un. Hedges, 4-5
neoges, Hellebore Powder, 263
Herbaceous Border, 78-88 ; plants, 88-112; plans for, 81, 82; list of perennials, 85; New Zealand herbaceous plants, 140; list of hardy perennials, 302-3
Herbs, 197-8
Hippeastrums, 70, 158, 168
UUIU, # , * Holly, as a hedge, 4
xauny, cts ct ucugc, •* Hollyhocks, 56
Hornbeam, as a hedge plant, 5
Hotbed, making a, 179, 181
Hyacinths, 67, 161, 162
Hybrid Perpetuals, 38
Hybrid sweet briars, 40; named varieties, 53
Hybrid Teas, 38
Insecticides, 263-5
Irises, 90-91
K
Kainit, a potash manure, 18
Kale, 189
Kauri {A gat his australis), 115, 133
Kentias, 167
Kerosene Emulsion, 264
Knightia excelsa, 133
Kohl Rabi, 199
Kumaras, 199
L
Lachenalias, 70, 161, 162
Lancewood, 135
Lawns, 2, 6-10; preparation, 6; sowing, 7; weed eradication, 8-9; maintenance, 9; fertilisers, 19
Lawson's Cypress, 4, 115
Layering, 29-30; carnations, 107
Leaf Curl. 257
Leaf cuttings, 28
Leeks, 199
Lemon, 231
Leptospermums (manuka), 137
Lettuces, 183, 193, 200-1
Libocedrus doniana, 134
Lilacs, 121
Lilies, 91-2; New Zealand mountain, 140, 142; in greenhouse, 158
Lime, as a soil improver, 16; in vegetable garden, 174
Lime sulphur, 264
Liquid manure, 15; for roses, 48
Loam, turfy, stack of, 144
Loganberry, 229
Lonicera nitida, as a dividing hedge, 5
ueugc, o Loquat, 236
Lupins, 97
M
Macrocarpa, as a hedge plant, 4; as shelter, 113
Magnolias, 122
Maidenhair ferns, 166
307
INDEX
Manuka, brightly coloured varieties, 131
Parsley, 198
Parsnip, 204-5
Passion Fruit, 238
Manures and manuring, 14-19; for potatoes, 209. See Fertilisers.
Paths, 6
Peach. 239
Pear. 239, 240
Marguerite carnations, 110; see also Chrysanthemums
Pear Leaf Blister, 257
Peas, 205-8
Marrows, 220-1
Pelargoniums, 155
Medlar. 236
Meryta Sinclairii (puka), 134
Pentstemons, 97
Perennials, herbaceous, 78; list of, 302-3
Michaelmas Daisy, dividing a root, 83, 259; see Asters
Pergola, 2; for roses, 40; for Virginian creeper, 129
Midge on Olearias, 259 Mignonette, 156
Pernetiana roses, 38
Mildew, 257; on roses and Michaelmas daisies, 259; on Peas, 262
Persimmon, 240
Pests, Garden, 253-263
Montbretias, 94
Phlox, 93
Moraine, in rock garden, 74
Phormium tenax, 138
Mulberry. 237
Phosphatic manures, 18
Muriate of potash, 18
Phosphorised Pollard, 264
Phyllocladus trichomanoides (celery top pine), 115, 134
Mushrooms, 201-2
Myrtus Ugni, 237
Physalis Franchetti, 160
N
Pinks, 109
Native plants, 131-142; trees, 115
Pinus radiata, 113 ti: lOC
Pittosporums, 135
Natural manures, 14-17
Planning the vegetable garden, 172
Nectarine, 239
Nephrolepis, 167
Plans of gardens, 2
Nerines, 70, 158
Plum, flowering, 115; fruit tree, 240
New Zealand Spinach, 218
Ngaio, 134
Podocarpus, 135
Nicotine, 264
Pohutukawa, 135
Nitrate of soda, 18; see Fertilisers
Poinsettias, 164-5
Nitrogenous manures, 17-18
Pointing, 13
I'mugvuuuo umi-i u a wo, Nothofagus, (N.Z. beeches), 134 Nuts, 237
Pollinating of flowers, 20
r uiniia Ling i uuwcia, Polyanthus narcissi, 162
Nymphaeas, 77
Polyanthus Primrose, 63
Poplar, Lombardy, 115
O
Popular and botanical names of plants, list of, 294-7
Okra, 202
Olearia Forsteri, 2, 4, 134, 137; midge on, 259
Potash manures, 18
Potassium Sulphate Solution, 264
Olive, 238
Onions, 202-4
Potato Disease, 262
Orach, 218
Potatoes, 208-212
Orange, 232
Potting soil for carnations, 107; for greenhouse, etc., 143-145 Primulas, pollination of, 21;
Orchard Pests, 256
Orchids, 169-172
Oriental Poppies, 97
cultivation, 97; in greenhouse, 156
P
Pachystegia grandiflora, 138
Privet, as a hedge plant, 5
Paeonies, 92-93
Propagation, from seed, 20-24; by cuttings, layering, budding and grafting, 24-37; inarching, 34, 252
Palms, 167
Panax, 138
Pansies, 64, 111
308
Prostantheras, 122
Pruning, trees, 114; shrubs, 116; fruit trees, 225-6; bush fruits, 233, 234; raspberries, 242; vines, 249
Prunus, 298
Pseudopanax (Lancewood), 135
Pteris, 160
Pumpkin, 212
Pyrethrums, 94
Pyrus (apple), 299
Q
Quassia chips, 264
Quince, 241
Quincunx system of planting, 221, 243
R
Radishes, 212
Rambler roses, 40; named varieties, 53
varieties, 53
Ranunculi, pollination of, 21; cultivation of, 66; in borders, 70 Ranunculus Lyallii, 140, 141,
Ranunculus Lyallii, 140, 141, 142
Raspberries, manure for, 19; 241-2
Raspberry Weevil, 257
Ratas, 135
Red Oil. 264
Red Spider, 258
Rhododendrons, 123-5
Rhubarb. 213-4
Rhus family, 122
Ribbon woods, 135-6
Ridging dug ground, 11
Rock garden, 70-75
Rock wall, how to build, 4
Root pruning, 226, 229
Rose beds, 2
Roses, manure for, 19; history of, 38-9; classes of, 39-40; design of garden, 40-1; preparation of beds and borders, 41; how to plant, 42; pruning, 43-6; disbudding, 46; spraying, 47; for exhibition. 47-50; manuring, 48; propagation. 51; names of varieties, 51-53. Rose species, 40
Rose species, 40
Rotation of crops, 174-6
s
Salpiglossis, 156
Salisify and Scorzonera, 214
Savoy cabbage, 215
Scab, 258
Scale, 258
Schizanthus, 156
Seakale, 215-6
Seed sowing, 22-24; soil for, 145; of begonias, 148-9; of vegetables, 177
Self-boiled Lime Sulphur, 264
Shallots, 216
Sharpening, hedge shears, 117; spade, 173
Shot-hole fungus, 255, 258
Shrubs, 115-127; pruning, 116; classes of, 117; list of, 118-123; variegated forms, 140; with brilliant autumn foliage, 298; with coloured berries, 299; with sweetly perfumed flowers, 300; spring flowering, 301
Silver Beet, 189
Slugs and Snails, 260
Sophora tetraptera (Kowhai), 136 Spinach, 217-8
Spinach, 217-8
Spraying, as a means of controlling pests and diseases, 253-4, 291; formulas, 263-5; table, 292-3
Spring Gardening, 62-70
Standard roses, 39; fruit trees, 222 Sterilising soil, 143
Sterilising soil, 143
Stone wall, occupies less space than earthen bank, 3; how to build, 4
Storing bulbs, 66, 68, 96; beet, 189; onions, 204; parsnips, 205; potatoes, 211; marrows, 221; fruit, 228
Strawberry Leaf Blight, 258
Streptocarpus, 163, 164
Sulphate of ammonia, 18
Sulphate of iron, 19
Sulphate of potash, 18
Summer pruning, 226, 229, 234
Superphosphate, 18
Sweet Peas, 98-101; fence of, 2
Sweet William, a typical hardy biennial, 55
PRACTICAL GARDENING
309
INDEX
T
Tccomas, 165
Thinning, grapes, 251
Thrips, on Peas, 262
Tomato Blight. 263
Tomatoes, manure for, 19; cultivation of, 218-220
Tonks’ mixture, 19; for roses, 48
Totaras, 115, 136
Trees, 113-115; planting, 113; pruning. 114: evergreens, 115; native, 115; weeping, horizontal and fastigiate, 115; New Zealand, 132-6; variegated forms, 140; with brilliant autumn foliage, 298; with coloured berries, 299; with sweetly-perfumed flowers, 300
Trenching, should be thorough, 3, 221; how to carry out, 10-14; vegetable garden. 173; orchard, 221-2
Tulips, 67. 161
Turnips, 220
V
Variegated forms of native trees and shrubs, 140
Vegetable garden, 172-221
Pests, 261-3
Vegetable marrows, 220-1
Veronicas, 139
Viburnums, 123
Vine. 248-252
Violas, 64. 111
Violets. 11l Vitis, 128-9. 248
W
Wallflowers, 56, 62
Wall, stone, 3, 4
Walnuts, 237
Water Plants, 75-78
White Island product, 264
Wichuriana roses, 39
Wire Worms, 260
Wistaria, 130
Woburn Winter Wash, 265
Wood ashes, 16
Woolly Aphis, 258
Y
Yew, Irish, 115
Printed by Whitcombe and Tombs Limited— g476
Permanent link to this item
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Bibliographic details
APA: Tannock, David. (1934). Practical gardening in New Zealand. Whitcombe & Tombs.
Chicago: Tannock, David. Practical gardening in New Zealand. Auckland, N.Z.: Whitcombe & Tombs, 1934.
MLA: Tannock, David. Practical gardening in New Zealand. Whitcombe & Tombs, 1934.
Word Count
84,777
Practical gardening in New Zealand Tannock, David, Whitcombe & Tombs, Auckland, N.Z., 1934
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