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THE GARDEN

OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK ENDING SEPTEMBER 8. FLOWER GARDEN. Bouvardus arc now extensively cultivated. They are amongst the most useful of florists' flowers. They bloom profusely during the autumu, and in favourable situations continue to flower almost throughout the winter. They are most useful for cutting from. Old plants should now be pruned well back. This induces fresh vigorous growth from the bottom, and by a little after attention to pinching back, nice bushy plants are produced by the time they are wanted to flower. When left untouched, the result is lanky, ill shaped, unfurnished plants, producing little bloom. Of late years great attention has been devoted to Bouvardias, and improved varieties have been produced, including several beautiful double-flowering sorts. The single-flowered, sweet-scented variety (Humboldtii corymbittora) is perhaps one of the best for outdoor culture. The plant is a strong, healthy grower and profuse bloomer. Tuberoses may now be replanted into their permanent quarters ; divide the clamps ; sow or plant the tubers shallow Gladioli must also be planted to produce best display. These bulbs may be put in at different intervals during the season, but the general planting must now bo made, in order to produce finest spikes of bloom. Several of the more tender plants may be transplanted into the flower-beds and borders for the summer display, suitable subjects being verbenas, fuchsias, pelargoniums, petunins, heliotropes, and several others, reserving the more tender varieties, such as Salvia splendeus, for later bedding out. Sow annuals in greater variety, keeping back some of the more delicate and tender sorts until the ground becomes warmer and more mellow, as t here is no gain by too early sowing ; the seedlings come up weakly, and if they do not fall a prey to slugs, they remain stationary, being overtaken in growth by later sowings of the same varieties. Thin out early-sown annuals, and transplant according to requirements. Azaleas: Some of the earlier flowering ports are out in bloom. Keep the soil around them nice and clean, and mulch the plants with a little well-decomposed manure. Camellias should be gone over occasionally, and have the dead blooms picked off. This helps the plants, and affords the undeveloped flowers a better chance. Dahlias—when it is intended to plant the roots where they are to remain and flower—should now be pu'o in ; but the best plan to start dahlias is to make up a bed in some sheltered and shady spot, and place a frame over it. Plant the dry roots in the soil, or place the roots on the surface, and obtain some nice, rich, well-prepared soil, covering the tubers with it. Well water occasionally, and if the roots are sound they will soon throw up young shoots, the first of which should be pinched back, in order to produce a sturdy growth and to induce them to throw up more shoots. Afterwards divide and plant out into permanent places. Leave only one stem to each. By this means much better plants are obtained, with less risk of losing any of the varieties. Seedling weeds are now very troublesome. Take advantage of fine days to lightly run the hoe over the surface of the ground. This checks the growth of the weeds, and is a material aid to the plants. Grass plots and lawns mow and roll frequently. THE ORCHARD. The grafting of such trees that have been headed down being found of inferior quality, should now be proceeded with. These should have bsen headed down as recommended in previous notes on pruning and general overhaul of the orchard. There are many trees allowed to grow that are not worth the space thoy occupy, either from the inferior quality of their fruit, from being shy bearers, or from their blighting propensities. Such trees should be grafted with the best and well-tried varieties. In selecting the grafts, one must be guided by the particular requirements of the grower. If grown for market, select such varieties as will come in when they are most in demand. In procuring grafts, care should be observed in selection of clean wood from healthy trees. If apples, see that the scion is nob alilictcd with

blight before it is inserted. In grafting large fruit trees, it is beet not to out too low into the large limbs, but to put the grafts on the smaller limbs, some distance from the trunk. The wound heals much quicker and the union is more complete. Although graft* will take freely on the larger branches, they never heal over as they do on the small ones. The number of era'fte on each branch must be regulated according to the size of limbs. If large, three may be inserted; on the smaller crown, two may be put on. If these all take, they provide several channel? for the great flush of sap that must rise from a large tree having healthy roots. In cutting back trees intended for graftiug, all small sprays should be allowed to grow to keep the roots in action. The grafts should be allowed to grow unchecked for the first season. In cases where the trees have been very large, it is well, after heading them down, to allow them to remain until the budding season, as they will throw up vigorous shoots, which can be budded during the summer, The mode of grafting depends in a great measure on the size of stock to be grafted. Cleft grafting is a very easy method, and one most generally adopted among amateurs, more especially for large stocks. With smaller stocks I Bhould recommend tongue grafting, as this makes a more complete union. G rafting can be successfully by anyone having a slight knowledge of the operation. ANSWERS TO COKRESPONDENTS. "A.D."-I quite agree with you (re codlin moth) that stringent measures should be taken to keep this terrible pest in chock. " Davis' Codlin Moth and Mealy Bug Destroyer " may be most effectual for the purpose, but not having had any experience myself of this particular insecticide, I cannot speak as to its efficacy. But I shall be glad to receive reports from anyone who has given it a practical trial, and can vouch for its effectiveness for the above-named purpose. There are many compounds in the market, and, of course, all are most highly recommended. But I am careful in recommending anyone until they have been thoroughly tested by disinterested parties. Kepos.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH18880901.2.69.41

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9148, 1 September 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

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1,069

THE GARDEN New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9148, 1 September 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9148, 1 September 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)