LADIES, COLUMN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXV, Issue 9148, 1 September 1888, Page 4 (Supplement)

LADIES , COLUMN.

THE LADIES' COURT IN THE MELBOURNE EXHIBITION. In the Victorian Court there is a considerable space Bet apart for the display of a collection of varied articles, the contributions of amateur and professional lady workers. The space has been partitioned off so as to form a series of smaller courts, the dividing screens providing space for hanging pictures, needlework, &c. The whole wall space is covered with a warm maroon cloth or cashmere which affords an excellent background and combines well with tha gold fringe and cord used for the ornamentation curtains, also maroon with which the arched fronts are draped. The whole is placed under the superintendence of Miss Williams, who has shown much judgment in arranging and as far as possible classifying the very varied supply sent for exhibition. The first court contains a bedstead and bed ; the hangings, tester, and vallance are all knitted in line white cotton. The parts for furnishing the bedstead are lined with pale blue cambric ; the patwrn of the knitting is good, and the whole ionns an exhibit attractive in itself, apart from the evidence of industry afforded ; the counterpane is substantial and very well knitted. A nightdress sachet matching the furniture is laid upon the pillow, and near the bed hangs a pair of long window curtains, also knitted. There are other knitted quilts ; one in a glass case is valued at £100; and though the price seems high, there is certainly sterling value for much good material which has been used to the best advantage that a good pattern and a clever worker combined could produce. In this court there are several quilts , one in crazy work, which has occupied the leisure hours of one of the lady members of the Simonsen Opera Company during their tour in the Australian colonies. This is of ei;tra large size, and, in addition to the erratic character of the ordinary crazy work, figures in fancy costumes are introduced. Blue cloth pinked at the edges has been selected as the foundation for another quilt, which is thickly covered witty a floral design ; the blossoms and leaves are also of cloth chosen as nearly as possible to match the natural tints ; the arum, Japanese lily, Lenten lily rose, dahlia, and fuchsia are some of the flowers represented. Strawberries and cherries are also introduced. There are brackets and a table border in similar style ; hut this work, though involving considerable skill and patient labour, is not of the artistic character which, at less expenditure of time and money, is often produced by feminine handiwork. A portiere of largo Siize, worked in china blue on a ground of creamy - tinted material something like Roman sheeting, is very handsome; the design is suid to be taken from one worked in Queen Elizabeth's time. The worker is Miss Smith, formerly a student at the Roynl School of Art Needlework in Kensington, and who has gained a gold medal for work at the Calcutta Exhibition. Between these largo specimens, which cover the walls on either side, is a table filled with seaweed, coral, and small shells, mounted and placed under glass shades. One side is screened off by a large white quilt of the " baker's cap" pattern ; that is, rosettes, about the size of a tlorin, made of white muslin, are joined together in rows, I and by introducing others much larger in size, ugeometrie design is formed ; this also is rather a model of industry than of taste. Flowers made of ti.sh scales, and appliqued on cushions, brackets, &c., form another exhibit; in one part the scales are worked into sprays of flowers and leaves, which look like the skeleton leaves and are marvels of delicate beauty, especially when one remembers from what they are made. A case of macrae work, fringes, brackets, wall-pockets, table borders, <!te., in excellent designs, and formed of thread or cord of colours blended most tastefully, merits a good deal of attention. In one corner of this court is a worker seated at her frame and very rapidly producing specimens of Limerick laoe. Handkerchiefs, infants' robes, and fichus for ladies are shown, but the chief demand for the lace is for the robes of the priests, and bishops in the Roman Catholic Church. During the 15 years the worker has spent in the colonies she has found this the most reliable source of income. She varies her patterns to suit the occasions whan the lace is worn ; a dove with an olive branch and the paschal ! lamb are reproduced in lace to adorn the cuffs of the prelates' robes ; the cross, heart, and anchor are also used. The worker uses a tambour needle or fine crochet hook in the right hand,which is above the frame ; in the left, which is underneath, the thread is used, and very rapidly, depending chiefly on her eye for design, the net foundation is figured ; when any special pattern is required a drawing is placed before the worker. Two exhibits of needlework by girls of 14 and 15 respectively are very creditable. These are done by members of tbe Servants' Training Institute, founded by Lady Loch, The .sewing is excellent, so is that in a shirt, all hand made, with an embroidered front. Socks and stockings in silk and thread, knitted by a lady in Annadale, are shown in one case. No. 2 courtis chielly filled with painting, crewel work, and bead work. A cushion of white satin has vine leaves and grapes, embroidered in pearls. The leaves are in very small beads, veined with gold; the tendrils and stems are of gold beads, and the bunches of grapes in pearls of different sizes. Miss Smith shows a screen of three panels, embroidered with a flora' spray of birds of bright plumage; this is a very artistic piece of work and i : ; is well mounted. An old lady of 72 years exhibits a case of bead work which, for a young worker, would not claim much notice. A case of Honiton lace, in which there is a good foundation pattern formed of the woven lace braid, is a most creditable exhibit; the lace stitches are well applied. This is sent by Miss Trenoweth, Kilmore. Miss Lockett's case of guipure lace is also excellent in design and workmanship. The painting on satin mounted as the seats and backs of chairs seems rather like skill misapplied, unless the chairs are intended solely for ornament. A doll dressed in white satin has a history on her gown ; the back is painted to represent a view of the river Murray ; the front has a large miarnia ; the right panel has a vine with fruit and leaves; the left, wheat ears. This doll occupies the centre of a large case. Below are painted cushions, sachets, &c. One nightdress case has a collection of shells painted on white satin round the words, "Goodnight." One case of beautiful crewel work exhibited by professional workers—H. and S. Power, 43, Collinsstreet — commands much attention. The golden wattle and other Australian flowers, pansies, tropical birds, wheat ears, &c, are worked with the greatest skill and fidelity to nature, both in size, form, and colour— cushions, book-covers, fans, &c. A second case of Honiton lace, by Miss Little, of Brighton, contains some very fine work. The exhibit of Mrs Lerieh in muslin embroidery is unapproached by any in similar work. On finest French cambric an elaborate floral design is worked, also highly ornamental letters intertwined, handkerchiefs, and a robe, all of the best quality of work, material, and design. The dividing screen between this and the adjoining court is covered with what is called a quilt in crazy work, but so superior to anything else of the same kind that it is deservedly classed with fine art. This is the wont of Mrs. Tracy, of Warrnambool, and proves undoubtedly that amateurs can distance professional workers in the artistic use of their needle. This quilt is made in panels of crazy work, so arranged that, unless closely examined, they look like rich pieces of brocade of the Renaissance period. Each panel is separated by a border of olive green plush about three inches wide, and the whole has a plush border about eight inches wide. This is the handsomest specimen of any class of patchwork which the writer has ever seen.

" Carman Sylva," the Queen of Roumania, has received an award for her new work, " LeH Pensees d'une Reine," from the Academic Francaise. The prize will, however, not take the customary shape of money, but that of a gold medal bearing Her Majesty's initials on th>3 obverse and the name of the work on the reverse. The accouchment of Princess Beatrice, which is expected in October, is, says the World, to take place at Balmoral, and in future the new wing of the Castle, which is now being decorated and furnished, is to be inhabited by the PrinceKs and Prince Henry and their children; and it ia also to j accommodate any other royal children j (Coiiriaughtd or Albanys) who may happen I to bo staying with the Queen.