ROTATIONAL CROPPING IS IMPORTANT

Te Ao Hou, Winter 1954, Page 50

ROTATIONAL CROPPING IS IMPORTANT Growing similar vegetable crops on the same ground, season after season, should be avoided, for it tends to cause the plant foods in the soil to become unbalanced, and consequently give poor returns for one's efforts. By rotating your crops from season to season, soil fertility can be maintained and diseases to a certain extent suppressed. A good suggestion for rotating would be:— (1) After harvesting potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkins, cabbage, etc., plant carrots, parsnips, onions, swedes, radish, etc. Never follow tomatoes after potatoes, pumpkins after cucumbers or leeks after onions, but rather rotate carrots after potatoes, parsnips after tomatoes, etc. By using the above method, soil fertility will be maintained and the quality of the crops will be much enhanced. At this time of the year, one can plant cabbage and cauliflowers in all but the coldest districts. In warm localities and where frosts are not severe, early planting is important. Broad beans are sown at this time of the year and the vegetables, when harvested later in the year, are available when greens are at their dearest and scarcest. Continue planting onions. This type of vegetable thrives in a rich, deep, free soil which should be prepared sometime before planting takes place. Pukekohe Long-keeper and Brown Spanish are recognised as the best keepers, while Ailsa Craig, Giant Rocco and White Spanish are desirable for early use. In well sheltered, warm situations, early potatoes can be planted. Epicure and Arran Banner are good varieties. Never sow seed when the soil is wet and adheres to the feet, or when soil conditions appear cold and sour. It is far better to wait for another few weeks, as one good crop is more profitable than two poor ones. Continue making sowings of peas for succession, using a good dressing of bonedust as a fertiliser, sown some weeks before planting. In a nice corner of the garden, plant several rhubarb roots, allowing 4ft between the rows and 3 ft between the plants. Incorporate ample quantities of decayed vegetable matter and compost in the soil before planting. The Home Orchard: Pruning of peaches, plums, apricots, cherries and apples should be completed as soon as possible, and the base sprays applied to combat fungoid diseases which prove troublesome later in the spring. Spraying is a means of preventing disease, and does not cure the trouble once infection has taken place. Therefore it is necessary to prune fruit trees, judiciously thinning out branches which are crossing, and generally opening the trees up to assist complete coverage with spray material. Grape-vines can now be pruned; the method generally accepted is to shorten bearing laterals to two buds and the taking out of weak rods or leaders, especially where over-crowding is taking place. When completed give a good spraying of lime sulphur, 1 pint to 10 pints of water. Continue the planting of fruit trees now, and do not forget to firm the ground well after the work is finished. Passion-fruit vines may need pruning, especially if heavy foliage is evident. Cut all laterals back to two buds, as the following years fruit is formed on the new growth during the spring months. Flower Gardens: Now is the time to plant roses. Roots should be cut to remove damaged parts, and the tops should be cut well back before planting. Established plants should be pruned hard, and weak shoots eliminated. Where soil is in good condition plant out herbaceous plants—Japanese Iris, Peonies, Geums, Phlox, etc. Begin to plant out Pansies, Gerberas, and Candy Tuft, and attend to cultivation of earilier planted bulbs to eliminate weeds and for the aeration of the soil.