Soils tor Careens Renovation

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 94, Issue 2, 15 February 1957, Page 165

Soils tor Careens Renovation

By

E. H. ARNOLD,

Assistant Fields Superintendent, Department of Agriculture, Auckland

. AFTER a season of constant use playing areas normally show signs of wear varying according to the original condition of the playing area, weather during the season, and the type of sport. Generally, in sports such as cricket, tennis, and bowls excessive wear takes place at or near the ends, and in other games like golf and croquet the

greatest wear is around the holes and hoops.

OUCH of this wear results not only in breaks in the turf cover, but in a disturbance of soil levels, with the result that further-soil must be introduced to restore the levels before the renovated areas are reseeded.

Also it sometimes becomes necessary or desirable to use some soil just before the opening of playing seasons, especially where the turf is somewhat open and heavy winter rains have caused some surface pitting. In such areas a light dressing of dry soil or a liquid application of soil, known as a “mud bath,” can do much to restore the uniformity of the surface if the application is made a few weeks before the areas are required for play.

Suitable Soil Types Generally, the best soils for renovation are those loams tending toward clay loam conditions. Such soils are often those of second-class browntop areas, where the humus content is fairly low. Sandy soils and peaty soils should be avoided. The former are too abrasive under play, and once the grass has been worn off they are easily disturbed and become windblown or pitted by bird baths. Peaty soils are similarly unsatisfactory, as they do not consolidate and are subject to excessive wear. At the other extreme of soil types heavy clays and silts possess the disadvantage of packing down too tightly, with the result that under rolling a concrete-like surface is developed. After reseeding and before rolling is necessary rain may set the surface, hindering seedlings breaking through. Where there is difficulty in obtaining a soil of the right type it is better to blend two soils of relatively opposite types than to use either alone. Again, though clay loams are regarded as best for average conditions, they are more suited to bowling greens and tennis courts, where a firm running surface is desired, than they are to golf putting greens, where greater resilience is needed. For the latter a lighter soil of a peaty loam type might even be quite satisfactory. Application of Soils Soils to be fully effective must be worked into the topsoil of the playing greens. For this the areas .must be grooved to a depth of jin. at lin. intervals before the application of soil. The soil must then be well rubbed in to knit with the original soil and penetrate any fibrous layers that might

be building up under acid conditions. In some instances so that more soil might be introduced it might be desirable to core the greens before the soil is applied. This would be advisable particularly where ’ the soil of the greens was too light or too heavy and it was desired to effect some change over several years of treatment. Application of soil without prior grooving or coring will lead ultimately to successive strata of soil and fibre mat being built up. Under very dry conditions this can affect moisture rise with the result that turf plants may die. When a liquid soil dressing or mud bath is being applied it is not essential to groove or core if this has already been done in the main annual renovation. The purpose of these applications is merely to true up the playing greens, and consequently this is effected with the minimum quantity of soil. Soil Fertility . The fertility level of the introduced soil is not of major importance. Rather

should one be concerned with its physical condition and ensure that it contains the right fraction of clay for the purpose. It is possible that a . soil complying with this condition may contain too much humus in the top few inches. If this is so, the top part should be discarded and the soil just below it used, provided that its other qualities are satisfactory. Any loss in fertility incurred by using the subsoil can quite rapidly be rectified by manurial treatment. ' Preparation of Soil A greenkeeper should not leave the provision of soil until the last minute, but should get it in some months before it is required, have it screened as opportunity offers, and see that it is adequately protected from the weather. Nearly all soil will contain some weed, clover, or grass seed. To reduce this to a minimum it is advisable to turn the soil from time to time to bring seed near the surface, where it will germinate. Even an occasional light sprinkling to induce such germination when the soil is too dry will be found to be helpful. Finally, it must be emphasised that too much care cannot be given to the choice and preparation of soil for greens renovation. Many failures can be blamed on two factorspoor soil types and lack of early provision to enable the soil to be put in the best possible condition.