Shell-Fish

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 4, 16 October 1950, Page 389

Shell-Fish

(Recipes and dfyletliods of S’iepa’iation NEW ZEALAND has available a comparatively ’ rich source of food in shell-fish. With a long coastline much of which is easy of access, many New Zealanders are able to obtain some of. the more common shell-fish such as pipis and mussels when the fancy takes them. Shell-fish readily obtainable , in the shops include oysters (either rock or South Island) and the packhorse species of . crayfish, and in certain areas it is also possible to obtain toheroas, cockles, crabs, scallops, and the fresh-water lobster. This article describing a variety of ways in which shell-fish may be prepared and cooked is by Nell Macpherson, Rural Sociologist, Department of Agriculture, Auckland, who adds a warning that care must be taken to ensure that shell-fish are quite fresh and have been taken from an unpolluted beach.

SHELL-FISH are a good source of iodine and a fair source of . vitamin B 1; but they appear so infrequently on menus that their contribution to the general diet is not important. Most shell-fish can be eaten all year round, - though there are some, such as oysters and toheroas, which can be taken only at certain seasons to conserve their numbers. The old superstition that shell-fish should be eaten only when there is an “r” in the month is meaningless. In the height of summer shell-fish deteriorate rather quickly; if they must be kept, especially where humidity is high, a very cool storage place—preferably a refrigeratoris essential. Crayfish / Crayfish may be used in a variety of ways, and most of the recipes given in overseas cookery books may be applied in New Zealand by substituting the native crayfish for the lobster or crab given in the recipe. When preparing crayfish always remove the cord, which is dark and runs through the centre of the tail. Crayfish can be served hot or cold, but for hot dishes rather less seasoning is needed. The medium white sauce required in the crayfish thermidor and scalloped crayfish recipes is made by blending 4 tablespoons each of flour and melted . butter and gradually adding 2 cups of milk, stirring to prevent lumps forming. The sauce is then cooked over low heat until it is smooth and thick.

Crayfish Thermidor

2 cups of medium 1 large crayfish white sauce Salt, pepper, and pap1 tablespoon of rika (red pepper) chopped parsley Remove the soft underskin on the tail of the crayfish. Remove the flesh and wash it in cold water. Wash the shell under cold running water. Heat the flesh in the white sauce. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste. When the mixture is hot fill the shell with it. Sprinkle paprika on top and brown it in the oven. (Six to eight servings.) This, recipe may be varied by adding chopped onion to the filling mixture; using chives instead of parsley; using small crayfish instead of a large one, each crayfish then making an individual serving; or adding 2 tablespoons of grated cheese to the mixture. Scalloped Crayfish and Eggs 4 hard-boiled eggs, 1 cup of crayfish flesh sliced 1 tablespoon of 2 cups of medium chopped parsley white sauce i cup of breadcrumbs Combine the egg slices, crayfish, parsley, and white sauce. Pour the mixture into a greased casserole or pie' dish, cover it with breadcrumbs, and bake it in a hot oven (400 degrees) until the crumbs are —about 15 minutes. . (Four servings.). Curried Crayfish 1 medium-sized Salt and pepper to crayfish taste 1 onion 2oz. of butter or fat J tablespoon of I tablespoon. of flour ” curry 1 powder I pint of milk

Remove the flesh from the crayfish and cut it into pieces. Mince the onion and cook it in the fat until it is soft but not brown. Add the flour, curry powder, salt, and pepper. Mix them smoothly and then add the milk gradually. Cook the mixture until it is smooth and thick. Add the cut-up crayfish flesh and stir the curry over heat until it almost starts to boil. Serve it with plain boiled rice if it is available. (Six servings.) A pinch of cayenne pepper or the grated rind of | lemon and 2 tablespoons of juice pay be added. • Crayfish ala Newburg Crayfish Cocktail crisp. R This is a' special way of preparing 2 small crayfish . 1 tablespoon of Wor- serve the Inbsfpr which is famous in the United cup tomato cestershire sauce or three . sauce Parsley

States of America.

4 tablespoons ■of Pepper, and a pinch butter or fat of cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon of flour J cup of top milk 2 cups of crayfish 2 egg yolks beaten in meat 4 cup of milk 4 teaspoon of salt ■ Lemon juice

Melt the fat and add the flour, stirring until it is smooth. Add the crayfish, salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, and top milk. When the mixture is smooth and thick gradually add the beaten egg yolks, stirring constantly. Add lemon juice to flavour and serve the crayfish on toast. (Six servings.)

Crayfish Fritters

21b. of crayfish flesh 2 tablespoons of cut into pieces butter 1 cup of flour 1 teaspoon of baking J teaspoon of sugar. powder 1 egg 1 teaspoon of salt -

Make a batter by sifting the dry ingredients into a bowl, adding the egg, melted butter, and 1 cup of water, and beating them together until the mixture is smooth. Dip the pieces of crayfish into the batter and coat them thoroughly. Fry the crayfish in deep, hot fat until it is golden brown, drain it on crumpled paper, and serve it hot or cold with wedges of lemon. __ * Crayfish Salad 1 medium-sized 1 small cup of crayfish • ■ vinegar 1 hard-boiled egg 2 tablespoons of 14 tablespoons of butter flour or 2 table- 1 teaspoon of dry spoons of cornflour mustard 1 tablespoon of sugar J teaspoon of salt 2 eggs 1 cup of milk Dressing: Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk gradually, and cook the mixture until it is smooth and thick, stirring continually. Beat the eggs, mustard, vinegar, sugar, and salt together, add them gradually to the cooked mixture, and heat it just to boiling. Remove the egg yolk from the white and sieve it into the dressing. Cut the white into rings or spears and use them for garnishing. Remove the meat from the shell of the crayfish and cut it into pieces; keep the legs aside. Mix the pieces with the- dressing and serve the salad in lettuce cups with the legs, on ice if possible. Garnish it with spears or rings of egg white, radish flowers, and celery curls, or tomato segments and pickled gherkin.

Lemon slices

Remove the flesh from the crayfish, cut it into long, narrow pieces, and place them in glasses or a round bowl. Mix the Worcestershire, and tomato sauces and Cover the crayfish pieces with them. Serve the cocktail with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Lobster or crayfish may be used in many other ways— souffles, omelets, pie fillings, savoury fillings, and aspic. Crabs can be used in the same way. For the experienced and experimental cook the variety of dishes which may be made is almost limitless. Oysters Though oysters are perhaps an acquired taste, once the taste has been acquired they can be used in many delightful ways, either as the main dish for a meal or as a delicious snack for supper. Most oysters sold ~in shops are already prepared for eating, but if they are obtained in the shell, they must be opened, washed, and bearded. They can be opened by inserting a sharp knife between the shells on the valve side and cutting through. Oysters on the Shell Use the deeper halves of the shells. Place a single, raw, cleaned oyster on each. , Serve them with lemon slices or wedges, tomato sauce, or horse-radish sauce. Oyster Stew 1 dozen oysters and 1 tablespoon of flour liquor i cup of milk 1. tablespoon of Salt and pepper butter Melt the butter and blend the flour into it. Add the milk and oyster liquor gradually, stirring the mixture over the heat until- it is thick and creamy. Add salt and pepper to taste and then the whole oysters. Bring the stew quickly to the boil, .stirring constantly. Lemon juice or vinegar can be added if desired. (Two or three servings.) Oyster Balls 1 cup of mashed 1 dozen oysters ' potatoes 1 tablespoon of 1 tablespoon of milk butter or oyster liquor Salt and pepper

Beat the potatoes, milk, butter, and seasoning together with a fork or wire whip. When the mixture is light and fluffy form it into pats. Place 2 oysters on each pat and roll them into a ball. Bake the balls on a greased slide in a moderate oven until the potatoes are golden brown. Put a sprig of parsley on each cooked ball. (Two or three servings.) Pigs in Blankets Dry 1 dozen large oysters and roll a half slice of bacon round each. Fasten them with toothpicks if necessary. Place them on a rack in a dish and bake them until the bacon is 'emove the toothpicks and savouries hot on toast. (Two servings.)

Oyster Chowder

1 dozen oysters and . 1 cup of milk liquor J cup of chopped 1 tablespoon of celery butter

Boil the celery in a little water until it is tender. Strain off the water into a saucepan with the milk and oyster liquor. Bring the liquid to the boil, add the butter, and season it to taste. Add the celery, chopped oysters, and, if desired, green peas or slices of raw tomatoes; - Serve the chowder with crackers. - Oysters may also be used as ' sandwich and patty fillings and in souffles, soups, cocktails, and fritters. They make a delicious filling in celery boats. Toheroas Toheroas are peculiar to New Zealand and, in fact, toheroa soup is regarded as New Zealand’s national soup. They are difficult to obtain in the raw state and are rather tougher than most shell-fish, so they are most often made into stew or soup, though they make rather tasty fritters if they ( are minced. Raw toheroas should be warmed in water to open them so that the sand falls out, then removed to clean water and boiled. This also helps to keep them fresh. Toheroa Fritters 6 toheroas 1 egg beaten in 1J 1 cup of flour cups of milk li teaspoons of 1 tablespoon, of baking powder melted fat 1 teaspoon of salt Batter: Sift the dry ingredients and add the egg and milk and the melted fat. Beat the ingredients only long enough to mix them; the batter should still be slightly lumpy. The recipe given for crayfish fritters may . be used if it is ' preferred. Mince the toheroas after washing them and add them to the batter mixture. Drop spoonfuls from a dessertspoon into shallow fat and cook them gently for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Drain them on absorbent paper and serve them •_with parsley and lemon juice. (Four to six servings.)

Scrambled Toheroas 6 toheroas * 1 teaspoon of butter 2 or 3 eggs Salt and pepper Simmer the toheroas gently in enough water to cover them until they are tender, then strain them. Beat the eggs and gradually add the liquor strained from the toheroas. Cut the toheroas into large pieces and add them. Cook the mixture over gentle heat until it is set. Add the butter, salt, and pepper and serve it on toast. (Four servings.) Toheroa Stew 6 toheroas . 1 tablespoon of flour 1 onion J cup of milk 1 tablespoon of fat Salt to taste Melt the fat and cook the onion in it until it is tender but not brown. Add the salt, cut-up toheroas, and water to cover them. Simmer the toheroas until they are tender. Thicken the stew with the flour and milk. Green peas and young carrots make a pleasing addition. (Four servings.) Toheroa Soup 6 toheroas 1 onion 3 pints of mils Salt and pepper Wash and mince the toheroas, mince the onion, and add both to the boiling milk. Simmer them for 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste. Thicken the soup with a little cornflour if desired and serve it with croutons. Mussels Mussels are available from fishmongers in most large towns and can -be dressed up with sauces to make really enjoyable dishes if the family likes them . hot. They also merge gracefully into salads and are really more satisfactory for salads than oysters, as they are larger. And, of course, they can .be collected at the beach and boiled in sea-water, when they are perhaps most delicious. Mussels can be opened by placing them in boiling water. Curried Mussels 2 dozen mussels ’ g tablespoon of flour 2 onions 2 tablespoons of J tablespoon of butter curry Salt and pepper

Melt the - butter, add the sliced onions, and cook them gently until they are golden brown. Add the flour, curry, and sufficient water to mix them smoothly. Add the mussels and, if necessary, more water until the mussels are just covered. Season the curry and cook it slowly for 30 minutes. Fried Mussels Allow 5 mussels per serving. Beat an egg lightly and mix it with an equal quantity of water. Roll the mussels in oatmeal, then in the egg mixture, and then in oatmeal again. Fry them in deep fat, drain them on absorbent paper, and serve them with Worcestershire sauce.' Fricassee of Mussels 8 mussels 2 tablespoons of top 1 tablespoon of fat milk 1 wineglass of white Juice of an orange wine , Pinch of mace loz. of flour Salt and pepper i pint of fish stock Melt the fat and blend the flour with it. Add the fish stock gradually, stirring to prevent lumps, then add mace, salt, and pepper to taste. Cook the mixture until it is thick, then add the top milk and wine. Put in the mussels and simmer them for 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the strained orange juice, and serve the fricassee immediately. (Four to six servings.) Mussel and Onion Salad 12 mussels Walnuts 3 pickled onions 1 tablespoon of Wor2oz. of cheese cestershire sauceLettuce leaves 1 cup of mayonnaise 6 spring onions Wash and cook the mussels and allow them to cool. Grate the cheese, chop the walnuts, and mix them. Spread the mixture on 6 of the. mussels and place the other 6 mussels in the manner of sandwiches, or split each mussel and fill it. Arrange the mussel sandwiches on lettuce leaves and top each sandwich with half a pickled onion; if preferred, the pickled onions may be chopped and sprinkled on the sandwiches. Arrange the lettuce leaves on a plate in a circle and in each space put a spring onion, bulb end out. Serve the salad with mayonnaise to which the Worcestershire sauce has been added. (Six servings.)

Mussel and Carrot Salad 2 mussels, cooked 2 tablespoons of 1 small carrot shredded cabbage 1 small onion 1 tablespoon of 1 lettuce leaf mayonnaise Grate the carrot and chop the onion and mussels finely. Mix them with the mayonnaise. Arrange the cabbage in the shape of a nest on the lettuce leaf and place the mussel 'mixture in the nest. (One serving.) Mussel and Onion Pie 12 mussels J tablespoon of 2 onions cornflour 1 tomato (if J cup of milk desired) Mashed potatoes Chop the mussels, slice the onions, and place them together in a casserole with enough water barely to cover them. Cook them slowly until the onions are tender. Strain off the liquor and thicken it with the cornflour and milk. Pour it back over the mussels and onions. Spread mashed potato over the top of the mixture and slice a tomato over the potato. Return the pie to the oven and cook it gently until the tomato slices are just tender but not wrinkled. Pi pis Pipis are seldom bought in a shop but are usually acquired on a picnic excursion. They may be used in the same ways as mussels and oysters. As they are smaller than mussels, more need to be used in the recipes; the usual allowance is two pipis to one mussel. Pipis are usually opened by being heated in water. If they are going to be cooked later, they need not be boiled, but otherwise they are better boiled. Place them in a frying pan with just sufficient water to prevent them sticking. As the shells open, remove the pipis and allow them to cook thoroughly. Shake a little pepper over them and add a nut of butter just before serving them. Pipi Souffle 1 cup of chopped 3 tablespoons of fat pipis 3 tablespoons of 3 eggs flour 1 cup of milk J teaspoon of salt Make a thick sauce by melting the fat, adding the flour and cooking it until it is smooth, then adding the milk gradually, stirring to prevent lumps forming. Cook the sauce until it is thick. Add the pipis to the white sauce and mix them thoroughly. Cool them slightly and add the beaten egg yolks. Beat the egg whites until they are stiff and fold them into the mixture. Pour the mixture into a greased baking dish, filling it not more than twothirds. Set the dish in a pan of hot water and bake the souffle at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 z hour. Scallops and Cockles Though they are seldom seen in a shop, scallops are obtainable at some beaches. . When they have been removed from the shells they are prepared by cutting off the beards and removing the black spots. They may then be eaten raw or used in the same ways as mussels.

Cockles are usually heated in water to remove them from their shells. Because they are small and not available elsewhere, they are more of a “picnic at the beach” treat.