THE HOME GARDEN IN AUGUST

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 1, 15 July 1950, Page 55

THE HOME GARDEN IN AUGUST

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor, Department of Agriculture,

Auckland.

IN most districts August is considered as the beginning of the gardening season and with the onset of spring many gardeners hasten to get crops established. However, even in early districts there is no urgency for extensive sowings in August, and disappointments often can be avoided by paying particular attention to the state of the soil. Tilth and soil moisture are important, and soil that will stick to boots when walked on is not in a favourable condition for sowing and planting. As soil warmth is most necessary for seed germination and the growth of young plants, little is gained and often much lost by sowing and planting while the ground is still wet and cold. Only the warm positions in the garden should be utilised at this time of the year.

PROVIDED soil and climatic conditions are satisfactory, small sowings may be made of the more hardy kinds of vegetables, such as parsnip, turnip, radish, beetroot, onion, spinach, silver beet, peas, lettuce, salsify, summer cabbage, early cauliflower, and • parsley and other herbs, and where conditions are not too severe cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and a few early onions may be planted out. In colder districts some protection must be given to the young plants by using cloches or wooden boxes with sheets of glass placed on top. To increase the soil warmth the protection should be placed in position 10 to 14 days before planting is done. The soil around growing crops should be aerated by cultivation. Most gardens will still have a good supply of cabbage and broccoli and cauliflower, silver beet, and spinach should still be available. Autumnplanted cabbage and cauliflower should now be at a stage when an ..application of liquid manure will benefit them by promoting further growth. Nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia, 2oz. in 4 gallons of water, may be applied at the rate of 1 pint of the solution to each plant. Broad beans planted in May should have made good growth by now and will be at the stage where the earth can be moulded up to plants to help support them. When plants have reached the full-flowering stage it is an advantage to pinch out the terminal shoot, as this checks their growth and induces them to set pods more readily. Retarding Seed-stem Development of Root Crops Toward the end of August root crops such as carrots and parsnips tend to run .to seed. This growth can be retarded considerably by wrenching. This may be achieved by pushing a fork or spade into the soil alongside the row and gently levering the roots up slightly. This breaks the extreme end of the taproot and consequently retards the growth of the plant. Kumaras Although most home gardeners purchase their kumara plants from seedsmen, they may be raised in a box during August or early September. The box should be about 9in. deep and

a convenient length and width and filled with equal parts of good light soil and sand. The tubers are set about . 3in. deep and should be kept moist. The necessary soil warmth to promote growth may be induced by placing the filled box in a sunny position and covering it with a sheet of glass. The tubers shoot from the eyes, and as soon as the shoots have developed small roots of their own they should be removed and planted into their permanent position or replanted into another box until required. If plants are removed early another batch of plants will soon develop. About a dozen tubers will supply enough plants for the average home garden. Peas

In the warmer parts of the North Island sowings of peas will have been made already, and provided conditions are favourable, a sowing can now be made in most districts. To maintain a succession varieties of similar maturity periods should be sown at regular

fortnightly or monthly intervals, or several varieties such as William Massey, Onward, and Stratagem, which mature in that order, may be sown at the same time. Except for very early crops or when the - soil is poor no additional manures should be needed. For early crops and in very poor soils a mixture of superphosphate 3 parts, blood and bone 1 part, and sulphate of potash 1/20 part (all by weight) sown along the rows, at the rate of Boz. to 9ft. of row and thoroughly mixed with the soil a few days before sowing the seed will be found to improve the yield. When sowing seed make a trench 2in. deep and sin. wide with straight walls and scatter the seed about lin. apart in the bottom of it. The rows should be 30 to 36in. apart. One pound of seed is sufficient to sow up to 100 ft. of row. As a protection against birds and harmful insects in the soil the seed may. be given a coating of kerosene and red lead powder. This is done by placing the seed in a shallow tin or similar container, dampening the seed with kerosene, . sprinkling red lead 'powder over it, and shaking the container backward and forward, adding sufficient red lead until the seed is thinly coated and reddish; seed should then be spread out to dry before sowing. " . k As another protective measure against birds which scratch up and eat the seeds a strand of black cotton can be stretched taut along the pea row. This is best placed 2in. from ground level and supported by thin sticks placed at intervals of about 4ft. Varieties: For early sowing the best varieties include William Massey, Blue Bantam, Little. Marvel, and Earcrop; suitable main-crop varieties are Greenfeast, Stratagem, and Commodore. Of the tall-growing peas which will require supports good varieties include

Aiderman, Glory of Devon, Onward, and Sugar or Edible Podded; the last variety has a fine, fleshy skin, which makes the pods edible. Parsnips In the lighter soils a small early sowing of parsnips may now be made. This useful vegetable should always be grown in the garden where soil conditions necessary to its successful cultivation are available. Tender, wellgrown parsnips are always popular. Roots can be lifted as required before attaining their full size, thus thinning out the row and leaving the remaining plants to grow on to maturity. Ground which was heavily manured for a previous crop should be selected for parsnips. If fertilisers are necessary, they should consist of equal parts of bonedust and superphosphate, but fresh manure must not be used. As parsnip seed quickly loses its viability, it should be sown thickly to ensure a good strike. In heavy soils fine leaf mould makes a good covering for the seed, but the leaf mould should be kept moist until the seed germinates. Sow the seed in drills J to Jin. deep and 18in. apart, and when the seedlings are well above the ground thin them out to 6 to Bin. apart in the rows. The ground ' between the plants must be kept weeded and well worked. August, September, and early October are the best months for the main-crop sowing and late February and early March for a crop for use in the spring. Parsnips may be lifted and pitted in sand in a cellar, or in the open ground if it is necessary to dig the crop before it is required for use. The most suitable variety for the home garden is Hollow Crown, but the turnip-rooted parsnip, which matures quickly and is of a good flavour, is worth a trial. Turnips If soil conditions are suitable, turnip seed may be sown almost the whole year round. Frequent sowings j should be made, as roots that are a long time in the ground are apt to become stringy and develop a bitter, pungent taste. The ground must be in a good condition, and land that has been heavily manured for some preceding

crop is suitable for turnips. Should manure be necessary, a mixture of equal parts of bonedust and superphosphate should be worked into the top 4in. of soil at least a week before seed is sown. Be careful not to overmanure, as this causes the plant to

run to leaf at the expense of the bulb. Seed should be sown thinly in shallow drills and lightly covered with about jin. of fine soil. Allow 12 to 15in. between rows and when plants are well above the ground thin them out to 3 or 4in. apart; thinning must be done early. While the crop is growing keep the soil between the rows loose with the hoe and destroy weeds as they appear. No further manure will be necessary provided the soil has been properly prepared in the first place. Good varieties are White Stone, Snowball, and Orange Jelly (Golden Ball). Beetroot Seed of the round or turnip-shaped red beets may be sown from August until March and of the long varieties from August to January. The round variety is generally more convenient for the home gardener than the long variety and where the soil is shallow the former only should be sown; it matures more quickly and the roots are ready to harvest in about 3 months from sowing under average conditions. Sow the seed thinly in rows 15in. apart for the long variety and 12in. apart for the round sorts. Thin out the long varieties to 4in. and the round

sorts to 3in. apart in the rows. When thinning out be careful to “single” the plants, as generally two or more grow from the same seed vessel. Provided beetroot follows a crop that was liberally manured, no artificial fertiliser is required. When cultivating, care should be taken not to cut or injure the sides of the roots, and this same precaution must be taken when lifting them out of the ground, as a wound or broken root allows the sap to escape and the colour of the beet is lost. Recommended varieties are: Round or turnip-rooted types, Derwent Globe, Early Wonder, and Egyptian Turnip Rooted; long varieties, Obelisk. Silver Beef or Swiss Chard Silver beet, which is quite distinct from red beet, is grown solely for the leaves and stalks and does not form a root that is edible. Silver beet is easier to grow than spinach and the young leaves stripped from the stalks make a good substitute for spinach. The white stalks may be cooked separately and served with white sauce or the whole leaf may be used. Silver beet requires a rich, wellmanured soil and a fine, thoroughly prepared seed-bed. Seed can be sown during . August, but in cold. localities sowing is better delayed until September; it is not necessary to plant a succession, as plants will continue to bear until they are cut down by frost or have run to seed in the following spring. Sow the seed in rows 24 to 30in. apart, allowing about jin. between the seeds and covering them with about Jin. of soil. Thin plants to 15in. apart in the rows when they are 4 to 6in. high. Thinnings can be transplanted or can be cooked as greens. Silver beet should be ready for the first cutting in 2 months from seed sowing. For home use it should be harvested by breaking or cutting off the outer stalks about 1 or 2in. above ground, care being taken to avoid injuring the crown or central bud. New stalks are produced from the centre of the plant, and repeated cuttings may be made. When the stalks are mature they should be removed, whether wanted or not, to promote continuous growth. Good .varieties are Lucullus, Fordhook Giant, and Dark Green Broad Ribbed. Spinach Spinach is a quick-maturing vegetable and among the first of the new season’s crops to mature. It does well in early spring provided the soil has been previously well manured and limed. A fertiliser composed of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 part of sulphate of ammonia by weight and applied at the rate of 2 or 3oz« a square yard will provide the stimulus necessary to produce crisp, succulent growth so desirable in this vegetable. Seed should be sown j to lin. deep in rows Ift. apart and plants should be thinned later , to 3in. apart. For summer and autumn use, the roundseeded variety is best. New Zealand Spinach, Mustard Spinach New Zealand spinach is not a true spinach, but is quite a good substitute and thrives only during hot weather,

which makes it suitable for growing under conditions in which true spinach tends to bolt to seed. Mustard spinach is related to the mustard family, but the pungent taste of the mustard has been greatly refined. It has a most delicious flavour, peculiarly its own and combines in itself the qualities of both spinach and mustard. - . Shallots August is the best month for setting shallots. The shallot is a member of the genus Allium, closely allied to the onion, but quite distinct from it. Its bulbs are used in seasoning, the flavour being milder than that of the onion, and sometimes the green leaves are cut and used in salads. The shallot requires a fairly rich soil, but should not be planted on freshly manured land. If there is no soil in the correct condition, a plot should be manured well some weeks before planting. For planting break the bulbs into small cloves, draw drills lin. deep and 24in. apart, and place the cloves from 6 to Bin. apart in the drills; press them into the ground and cover them lightly with soil. Frequent and thorough cultivation is all that is necessary for their success. If desired, the bulbs can be blanched by covering them with 2in. of soil about 4 weeks before harvesting. Salsify or Oyster Plant Salsify or vegetable oyster plant, with its long, narrow, fleshy root resembles a very narrow parsnip. The roots grow about 15 to 18in. long and are about Ijin. in diameter. Properly cooked they are a most delicious vegetable, having the flavour of stewed oysters. . , To get the best results from salsify the soil should be prepared as recommended for parsnips; good-quality-roots depend to a large extent on the preparation of the soil. As the roots

are more liable, to fork than parsnips or carrots, ground that has been well manured for a previous crop is preferable to that which has to be manured just before being cropped. Sow seed in August or September in drills jin. deep and 12 to 15in. apart, and when the seedlings are about 3in. high, thin them out to Sin. between the plants. The roots will be ready for lifting in February, when they may be harvested as required or lifted and stored in sand in a cool place to prevent the roots from shrivelling. The leaves of salsify, when properly blanched, make a delicious salad, and if some plants are required for this purpose, roots should be placed in an upright position in a box of sand and stored away from the light in a shed and the leaves gathered as they develop. Herbs .Herbs , such as parsley, mint, sage, and thyme should have a place in every home garden. They are best planted where they are easily accessible to the housewife, and a good effect is achieved if they are planted as a border at one end of the garden or adjacent to a pathway. Parsley Parsley is hardy and quite easily grown. Once established it does well and if not cut too heavily will continue to yield steadily until it flowers, after which its value is lost. For summer and autumn supply seed should be sown now. Draw out shallow drills and sow the seed in rows 12in. apart, covering it with not more than jin. of soil. Parsley seed is slow in germinating, taking from 4,10 5 weeks to come up. When the plants are well above ground, thin them out to 12in. apart in the rows. . Do not permit the plants to crowd at any time. Pick parsley as required, but never strip the plants right down. To prolong the yield cut off seed stalks

as they appear. ■ Parsley must be kept well watered during dry weather. Varieties: The best are Triple Curled and Moss Curled. Mint Mint, is best propagated by root cuttings of the creeping stems, and as it is a moisture-loving plant, cuttings should be set in a moist part of the garden; near a water tap is ideal. As it is inclined to wander if left to its own resources, it should be trimmed back regularly with a spade and the unwanted roots carefully forked out before they become too firmly established. Sage and Thyme Sage and thyme may be grown from seed sown in October, but generally they are propagated by a division of the roots of older plants, which are usually dug up and divided every 3 years, as by that time they have lost their vitality. Sage plants should be 18in. apart and thyme Ift. apart. Rhubarb The health-giving value of rhubarb is considerable. It is a perennial, and provided it is well looked after and the roots are divided and replanted every fourth year, crowns will continue to yield first-quality stalks for 20 years or more. " The roots may be planted from June to August. After the roots have been producing for 3 years the crowns develop a large number of small buds and produce small spindly stalks. They should be dug up and, using a sharp spade, divided. Portions of the root containing one bold bud should be replanted in new. ground that has been previously heavily manured with some humus-forming material such as farmyard or stable manure; if this is not available, a handful of blood and bone should be mixed into the soil around each plant. The site for a new bed should be deeply dug or trenched, and all perennial weeds should be removed, and the soil well dressed with organic manure. Plants should be set 3 to 4ft. apart each way arid the crowns covered with 2 or 3in. of soil. No stalks should be pulled from newly planted crowns the first year arid only light pullings should be made the second season. If the plants are kept well manured, summer varieties can be pulled for about 3 months in spring; winter or ever-bearing rhubarb is usually pulled in autumn and winter. Pulling of stalks exhausts the crowns, and for best results they must have an adequate rest period each year. Good varieties are Victoria Giant, Champion Seedless, and Topps Winter; the last will produce stalks all the year round, but is especially adapted to winter use, when the other varieties are dormant. Cabbage and Cauliflower For summer supply cauliflower of the early-maturing varieties, such as Early London and Phenomenal Early, and cabbage of the varieties Flower of Spring. Enfield Market, Golden Acre, and Green Acre (maturing in that order) can be planted now. 7 Good, rich soil is essential for success, and in the absence of farm - vard manure or compost a mixture of 3 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and 1/20 part of sul-

During early spring the home gardener should,have decided upon or adopted a plan ■for the coming season's operations, as without this plan the work performed will be more or less indiscriminate. Plan to grow the early vegetables in the warmest., situation. Do not plant tall-growing varieties where they will overshadow other vegetables. Have perennials, for example, asparagus and rhubarb, at one end and not in the middle of the garden. Keep vegetable rows straight and plantings compact. SCHEDULE FOR ROTATION OF CROPS As plants deplete or build up the soil in different ways, plan if possible a 3-year. ■ rotation system thus:— Garden Area A Garden Area B Garden Area C ' 1950 .. Brassicas (cabbage, Roots (carrot, parsnip, beetroot) Peas, beans, potatoes cauliflower, brusseis sprouts) ’ .1951 .. .Peas, etc. ' Brassicas Roots 1952 . ... Roots Peas, etc. Brassicas ; x ’ ’ ’ • ' ■ - -

RAISING SEEDLINGS IN THE HOME GARDEN

phate of potash, all by weight, incorporated in the plant rows at the rate of |lb. to 4ft. of row, should suffice. Artificial manures should be spread evenly along the -plant rows and worked in or covered . with sufficient soil so that the plant root does not come into contact with a too-heavy concentration, which is liable to cause a check to its growth. Plants should be spaced 15in. apart in the rows, which should be 30in. apart. At this time of the year it is not necessary unless the ground is of a heavy nature to-plant on a ridge. If the plants are set out on the fiat, they should have the soil moulded up to them as they grow, care being taken not to cover any portion of the leaves or leaf stems. Preparation of Soil Provided that the seasonal gardening programme has been adhered to, there should now be several areas that were dug over earlier and sown in cover crops or left rough for exposure to the weather. Building up Humus Content If farmyard manure or compost is not available, blue lupins are perhaps the best means of building up humus content. As they are a legume, they also increase the nitrogen supply provided they have been left long enough for the nodules to develop on. the roots. These nodules are caused by nitrogenfixing bacteria which live in partnership (symbiosis) with leguminous plants; each nodule .is the home of millions of bacteria, which enter the roots from the soil. The plant supplies carbohydrates 1 and in return the bacteria supply nitrogen in the form of compounds which the plants can use. As heavy green crops take a fairly long time to decompose, they should be incorporated in the soil several weeks before the ground is required for planting. Plants usually suffer from nitrogen starvation if . they are planted in land where thorough decomposition of organic material has not taken place, as the bacteria which break the material down use up the readily available forms of nitrates, depriving the plants of them. Temporary acidity may also develop, especially during the early stages of decay, which may retard the growth of plants or result in failure of seed to germinate. Lime and Fertilisers Lime is best applied to the surface of the soil and allowed to be washed in by rains. If it has not already been applied, a dressing should be given now. Carbonate of lime generally is used and an application of -Jib. to the square yard will greatly benefit most soils. With a few exceptions artificial fertilisers should consist of a complete plant food, principally nitrogen, ’ phosphoric acid, and potash. These three are necessary for most soils . and usually they should supply all plant requirements. The quantities to be used depend on soil conditions and what kind of vegetable it is intended to grow. For instance, cabbage and lettuce being leafy plants require more nitrogen than root crops such as carrots or beetroot, which require a larger percentage of phosphates. Vegetables require only small quantities of potash, and although it should not be used to excess, it should not be omitted.

Breaking up Ground Where the ground has been left rough over winter, the top spit can be forked over and well broken down. This forking allows the air to penetrate the soil particles and encourages the escape of excess soil moisture, resulting in a better tilth and providing a good opportunity for the working in of artificial fertilisers or well-made compost; stable or farmyard manures are best dug into the ground some time before it is to be planted so that they are well rotted when cropping begins. Light soils require only a shallow forking, as they break down well and readily crumble to a fine tilth if the soil condition is favourable. Heavy soils should be cultivated when they are only slightly moist and the sods can be broken down with the back of the fork. The gardener should work backward so that he does not consolidate the loosened soil. Firming and Raking The ideal seed-bed is one on which only shallow impressions are made when it is walked on. Soils i that are of a heavy nature are liable to pack if care is not taken in firming; raking the soil is ; generally sufficient, but lighter soils can easily be firmed by walking over them with a shuffling motion. It is important to remember that the object of firming is to consolidate the soil particles sufficiently to increase capillary action, thus forming better soil conditions for seed germination. The final work in the preparation of the seed-bed is done with the ordinary garden rake, the teeth of which should not penetrate the soil to a depth greater than that at which seed is to be sown. When soil preparation .is complete ..all rubbish, loose stones, and lumps of soil should have been . removed and the bed should be level and have a fine tilth. Care should be taken with heavy soils to see that they are not sticky, as if they are in this condition, it is impossible to obtain the desired results. Soil Improvers Heavy soils that are inclined to be of a sticky nature and therefore more difficult to work can be improved by the addition of a fairly liberal dressing of sand. This should be spread over the area and mixed with the surface soil to a depth of about 3in. Light, open-textured soils in which the soil particles require binding will benefit by an application of a humusbuilding material such as compost or stable or farmyard manure. Raising Seedlings Although the average home gardener prefers to purchase his seedlings, he can find much interest in propagating them. It involves only a small outlay and a minimum of time if simple methods are used. Several methods, however, will have to be adopted, depending on the time of year, climatic conditions, and the kind of vegetable it is desired to grow. When climatic conditions are favourable and the soil is fairly warm the outdoor seedling bed is satisfactory. This should be made in a sheltered position and should comprise good, well-drained, light, loamy soil. The

soil in the seed-bed must be thoroughly and deeply worked and the surface brought to a fine tilth. If the ground is of a clayey nature, the addition of sand, wood ashes, or decayed vegetable matter will considerably improve it. When the soil has been thoroughly prepared level the surface with a rake and gently pat it with the back of a spade to make it firm, after which it is ready to receive the seed. The seed should be broadcast thinly and evenly on the surface of the bed or sown not too thickly in shallow drills and covered lightly with fine soil. 'When the seed has been sown cover the surface soil with some finely broken-up, welldecayed manure. This mulch reduces evaporation, keeps the roots of the tiny plants cool, and’ promotes vigorous growth. While in the seed-bed seedlings should be kept supplied with moisture when necessary by watering them with a watering can fitted with a fine rose. Cold Frame Every biome gardener should possess a cold frame, which is very useful not only for hardening plants started in a hotbed, but, in mild climates, for raising early seedlings. The most convenient size is a box-like structure 4ft. 6in. wide by 9ft. long (18in. high at back and 12in. at front) with 3 neatly fitting, sliding sashes on top supported by 4 rafters placed across the frame from back to front. To avoid any danger of sashes being lifted off by strong winds it is a good practice to place wooden buttons in the middle of each rafter, allowing the sash to be drawn freely backward or forward for ventilation. The cold frame should be placed in a sheltered position at the best angle to secure maximum sunshine. Fill the interior to a depth of 3in. with good potting soil and pile a little earth against the outside of the frame to keep out draughts. If the frame is required for hardening off or. for raising plants in seed boxes only, the floor of the frame may be covered with small cinders or fine scoria. In localities where frosts occur plants in cold frames must be protected by covering the glass at night with straw or sacks. Hotbed A temporary hotbed, which is very handy in colder localities for raising early seedlings, can be made of strawy stable manure, brewers’ ' hops and straw, or a mixture of green vegetable matter and straw. Select a perfectly dry position sheltered from southerly and westerly winds and well drained, for if water is permitted to lie around the base of the bed, a good even temperature cannot be kept. Dig a pit 12 to 18in. deep on the site intended for the bed and slightly larger than the frame that is to be placed upon it. Keep the sides of the pit

perpendicular." When the-pit is completed shake out the manure and place it evenly in the pit; it should be thoroughly compacted by tramping as the filling of the pit progresses. The manure j.or hotbed purposes should contain sufficient litter, such as leaves or straw, to prevent it packing and should spring slightly when trodden on - o . After the manure has been properly tramped and levelled the frames to support the sashes are placed in position, facing north. These frames are similar in construction to cold frames and have one or more, sashes according to. the size required. When the frame is in position, 3 to sin. of good garden loam or specially prepared soil is spread evenly over the area enclosed in the frame, the sash

put on, and the bed allowed to heat, To keep warmth from escaping and rain-water out soil is thrown up around the outside edge of the frame, At first a strong heat will arise, but when this has abated to a temperature of 85 to 90 degrees F. (usually in about 3 days) seed may be sown in boxes placed in the hotbed or in earthenware pots; , it is best to bed the pots partly in the soil. During bright days the hotbed will heat very quickly from the sunshine on the glass and it will be necessary to ventilate it during the morning by slightly raising the sash on the leeward side. Care should be taken in ventilating the bed to protect the plants from a draught of cold air. Toward evening the sash should be closed to warm the bed sufficiently before nightfall. Hotbeds should be

watered on bright days and in the morning only. Watering in. the evening or on cloudy days will tend to chill the bed and increase the danger from freezing. After * watering, the bed should be well ventilated to dry the foliage of the plants and the surface of the soil to prevent the plants being lost by damping-off fungi or mildew. It is also desirable to have a supply of straw on hand to throw over the frame in case of extremely cold weather. Seed Boxes or Trays The most practical method of raising early vegetable plants for the home garden is by using seed boxes. The following dimensions will give a handy-sized seed box: Depth, 3j or 4in.; width, 12 to 14in.; length, 20 to 24in. Drill several evenly spaced j-in. holes in the bottom of the box to provide drainage. Good soil for filling the boxes consists of 1 part of well-rotted manure, 2 parts of good garden loam or rotted turf, and 1 part of sharp, fine sand. The . manure should be thoroughly rotted, but it should not have been exposed to the weather, as the strength will have been leached out of it. Mix all the ingredients in a heap, stirring them well with a shovel, and sift the soil. The coarse material caught in the sieve should be placed lin. thick in the bottom of the seed box and the box then almost filled with the good soil. Press the soil down with a piece of board and mark out rows crosswise j to jin. deep and 2in. apart. Sow about 8 to 10 seeds to each inch of row and cover them with soil. Water the soil and place the box in a cold frame or if this is not available, in a warm situation such as just inside a sunny window. Water the soil sufficiently to cause germination and growth, but do not give so much water that it leaks through. the box. A piece of glass used as a cover will hold the moisture and hasten germination. A sheet of paper can also be placed on top of the glass, but it must be removed as soon as the seedlings appear. When moisture is seen to accumulate on the underside of the . glass surface the glass should be turned, as soil which is too moist provides a congenial environment for the development of fungi. Sterilising Soil As a safeguard against soil-borne fungi such as those producing’ “damp-ing-off” and foot rot the soil for seedlings should be sterilised. For the home garden, where only a small quantity of soil has to be treated, the best method of sterilising soil is as follows: After filling the seed boxes with soil water them with a formalin solution composed of 1 part of 40 per cent, commercial formaldehyde to 49 parts of water at the rate of . 5 pints to each cubic foot of soil. Then stack the seed boxes one on top of the other in a heap and cover them with wet sacks for 48 hours. .All traces of the fumes should have disappeared before the soil is used. Dispersal of the fumes can be facilitated by breaking down the stack and stirring-the soil in the trays.