Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 65, Issue 6, 15 December 1942, Page 364

Guide for the Home Garden

January Work in the Home Garden

JANUARY is not a very active period for seed sowing, and, provided immediate replacement of exhausted crops is not contemplated, no part of the home garden should be permitted to remain unoccupied and become merely a patch of weedsa convenient breeding ground for diseases and injurious insects. A small quantity of oats kept handy can always be used to produce a green manure crop on a vacant part of the garden. If the ground is dug in the usual manner, levelled off and the oats broadcast, they may be turned under in the newly-dug soil to a depth of two inches. At this depth the oats will be safe from birds and a heavier yield will be secured. Oats are a quickgrowing green crop and, while preventing part of the garden remaining in a more or less derelict condition, will, when dug under and decomposed, considerably enrich the soil by the creation of additional humus. Soil-improving Crops “Green manure crops” and “cover crops” are terms often used to express

what is meant by “soil-improving crops.” There is, however, a technical difference in the prospective utility value of each crop. , The former is grown solely for the purpose of ploughing or digging into the soil so that additional humus may be created through the decomposition of the plant substance. The Tatter, while fulfilling the same function as the green manure crop, by the creation of additional humus, may be grown for the protection of the soil as well as for its improvement. A “cover crop” sown in early autumn and turned under in spring will, during its period of growth, prevent leaching of valuable plant food from the soil, particularly nitrogen. The plant nutrients thus utilised by the crop for its development will utimately be returned to the soil. Before sowing a green manure crop the home-gardener should consider the full advantage which may be gained while that part of his garden is not producing a worthwhile vegetable crop. In addition to conserving the plant food already in the soil, some green manure crops, during their grow-

ing period will accumulate from the air nitrogen which is stored in the roots of the plants. When the green manure crop is dug in this extra nitrogen is added to the soil and becomes available for the vegetable crop following. In view of the present fertiliser position in the Dominion, this aspect of green manuring should not be entirely disregarded. Deep-rooting cover crops will make available for future use nutrients obtained from the subsoil during the period of growth. The plant foods thus secured through decomposition after the crop is dug in, will considerably enrich the top soil. To serve the dual purpose of creating additional humus and providing extra plant food which will further enrich the soil, seeds of a leguminous variety of plant should be sown. The blue lupin is most favoured, but the yellow variety might also be tried. Lupins have a forceful root system, sending a strong tap root deep down into the sub-soil. This is a considerable advantage as, by obtaining necessary moisture at lower levels, it enables the plants to withstand dry conditions, and assists in the utilisation of plant food stored in the subsoil, which otherwise would not be available to plants of shallow-rooting varieties. When the crop is dug in, the decaying roots assist aeration, thereby making heavy soils more porous. The selection of the kind of green crops which may be grown will be largely determined by the quantity of artificial nitrogen available, and the time which can be allowed for the crop to remain growing in the garden. It should be recognised, however, that, all soils will benefit to some extent by growing and digging in green manure crops. Tomatoes Under conditions at present obtaining in the Dominion it would be difficult to mention a crop in the garden—the potato exceptedwhich could be classed of greater importance than the tomato. The nutritional value of the fruit has previously been referred to in this Journal, and should require no additional comment. It seems only necessary to indicate that supplies for community consumption may be below normal requirements. For the commercial grower the growing season started with indifferent weather during November. The stormy conditions which obtained, varied with periods of

high humidity, took a heavy toll of early-planted crops. The home gardener is therefore advised to do everything possible for the protection of his tomato crop. The plants should be kept clear of all surplus growth, special attention being paid to the heavy laterals which shoot from the plant between the soil surface and where the two main stems are formed. Tying the plants, if necessary every ten inches, is the best means of protecting them against the damaging effects of high winds. In tying the plant the material being used should be made fast first to the stake, and, when encircling the plant, made to pass under a leaf and close to the main stem of the plant. Fastened in

this manner the plant will remain upright, and the lower bunch of fruit will be kept clear of the ground. Spraying cannot profitably be neglected. Blight, caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans, may wreck a crop before the disease is properly diagnosed. To protect the plants from being attacked, spray with Bordeaux mixture. After the disease appears it will be too late to spray. There is no known treatment which will ' restore the health and vigour of blighted plants. Celery Early set plants should by the middle of January be getting well forward. If

planted in trenches, drainage should be attended to so that surplus water will get away from the roots of the plants. As with tomatoes, applications of liquid manure after heavy watering will be beneficial and assist in maintaining growth towards maturity. Double-row plantings as well as mul-tiple-row beds require; to be blanched artificially, and this may be . done by placing 12 x 1 inch boards close to the plants on the outside rows. The object of blanching is to remove the green colouring from the stems, and this is accomplished by the exclusion of light from that part of the plant shortly before maturity is reached. Clean waterproof paper may be used for wrapping individual plants. Plants grown in

single rows may also be blanched by “banking’ soil well up the stems; but no soil should be allowed to lodge in the centre growth.,, Spraying with Bordeaux mixture for the prevention of blight, caused by the fungus Septaria apii, is necessary if the crop is to be preserved. It will be an advantage if late celery can be planted out as far as possible from growing carrots, particularly if there are indications of the presence of the carrot rust fly. Celery plants are subject to attack by this pest, and serious injury may result to the crop if this precaution is ignored. Winter Green Crops Plants of all varieties of vegetables for late autumn and winter maturity will no doubt have been set out in their permanent positions; 1 but, if not, no time should be lost in attending to the planting. Puddling, or watering in, are the only safe methods to adopt when plants of these varieties are 'set out during January. Regular applications of , insecticides lo-14 day intervals —must be made if the destructive activities of the various pests which affect the plants are to be combatted, prolonged spells of dry weather influence pest development, and when protective measures are adopted the heart of the 1 plant should receive special attention. Swede turnip tops should also receive some insecticidal treatment, as this crop suffers from the same pests as attack cabbages and cauliflowers.

Potatoes

To the home-gardener the recent shortage of potatoes for domestic use will now be only a memorysomething to be quickly forgotten. The lesson, however, which may have been learned from the experience will no doubt have a stimulating effect on future production. Constituting as it does the principal vegetable of the daily dietary of the peoples of the allied nations, the potato has rightly been placed in a position of supreme and fully-warranted importance. Late varieties, however, in most parts of the Dominion require special attention, and careful spraying with Bordeaux mixture will be the principal consideration. As with tomatoes, spray regularly to prevent attacks of blight. Keep the hoe going and always with a tendency to “bank” up the soil for the protection of the developing young tubers, and to assist the top growth to stand up against high winds.

Asparagus

Young beds, and beds on which cutting was stopped in December, should now receive manurial attention. They will be greatly benefited by a dressing of farmyard manure, a good handful of blood and bone manure to each crown, and as much dry wood ashes as can be spared. The latter will sup-, ply the necessary potash which is in

short supply and costly to purchase. These fertilisers should be applied as early as convenient and lightly forked into the soil. . Deep digging may seriously injure the roots of the plants. Heavy manuring at the present time is necessary for high-quality production next season. Rhubarb v Pulling stalks from summer varieties of rhubarb should not be continued after -the middle of December. The manurial treatment recommended for asparagus will suit this crop admirably. Weed growth on both asparagus and rhubarb beds should never be permitted to develop, as it robs the roots of moisture and plant foods. Silver Beet Swiss Chard and Spinach Beet: This vegetable should be more extensively

grown than it has been. The large dark-coloured green leaves can be cooked and served like spinach, while the main white or cream-coloured ribs are cooked and served like asparagus. The plant is easily grown and will stand hot and cold weather conditions better than most vegetable varieties. In northern districts seed may be sown almost any month of the year; in other locations from July to February. When sown in drills these should be 18-20 inches apart and the young plants thinned to 8-10 inches spacing in the row. The seed may also be sown' in beds, and the plants. when 4-5 inches high set at the above distances. As a summer fertiliser superphosphate three parts and sulphate of ammonia one part—by weight— be applied at the rate of 2 oz. per square

yard, and worked into the soil before planting. For later plantings, blood and bone manure may be substituted for the above mixture and applied at the rate of 3 oz. per square yard. Liquid manure applied at 10-14-day intervals will assist in stimulating the

plants towards development. Silver beet may be grown on any good garden soil, but a fairly heavy loam well supplied with organic manure will always produce a payable crop.

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

, Instructor in

vegetable Culture, Wellmgton..

Treating Bulbs For Sale

H.W. (MARLBOROUGH):— Having a large number of Lilium Regale bulbs growing in my garden, I should be glad to know the best way of treating them for sale, as to whether they should be dug up and dried off or left in the ground till needed, as they seem to always have a lot of fleshy roots. HORTICULTURE DIVISION:— The bulbs should be lifted in autumn with basal roots intact, as soon as the flowers and foliage die down. While out of the ground they must be kept moist and replanted as son as possible. To dry off the bulbs in any degree or to destroy the roots causes a serious check to growth.

Manures <. are vital to the success of your garden crop. A free bulletin on “Manures and Manuring for Garden Crops” may be obtained from the Department of Agriculture. Don't neglect disease and pests in the orchard. The Department of , Agriculture will post you the free bulletin on. the control of orchard diseases and pests by spraying. Don't permit ashes from wood fires to be exposed to rain. These contain valuable potash which will be leached into the soil.

What to Do in the Home Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During January

SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Dwarf beans, lettuce (sow in drills), peas (dwarf variety), radish, spring onions, turnips, endive. SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT. Cabbage (savoy), broccoli, celery, leek. CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month of sowing). Salads: Lettuce (June), radish (almost all the year round), tomatoes — (Sept.), cucumbers (late Sept.-Oct.).

Green Vegetables: Cabbage (Flower of Spring— cold districts), beans (late Sept.-Oct.), spinach (July), silver beet (July), peas—-dwarf (July). Root Crops: Beetroot (Jan. winter supply), carrots early (early and short-horn varieties), parsnips (Aug.), turnips (Feb.-Mar. winter supply), swedes— (Aug.). Gourds: Squash—Warren (late Oct. in warm districts), Golden Hubbard and Green Hubbard (Nov.), pumpkin (Nov.).