THE TOURIST and TRAVELLER

New Zealand Illustrated Sporting & Dramatic Review, Issue 1255, 7 May 1914, Page 44

THE TOURIST and TRAVELLER

PANAMA EXHIBITION.

Like an enchanted city of marvellous palaces and wonderful gardens, the Panama-Pacific International Exposition is rising from the shores of San Francisco’® beautiful bay, and although the date of opening is still a year away the construction is more than half completed, and every detail will be perfect within the next six months.

The opening date has been fixed for February 20. The latest notification states that the Exposition will remain open until December 4—a period of 288 days. Recent visitors to San Francisco have been struck by the beauty of the site of the great show. It is a national amphitheatre, with a floor about three miles long and from a third to half a mile wide, backed by low hills, flanked at each end by Government reservations and fortifications, and fronting for its whole length the azure waters of San Francisco Bay. It lies just within the portals of the Golden Gate,, and is about Two miles from the business centre of San Francisco. On the hills behind it is the best residential district of the city. Magnificent mountain and marine views surround it, and whether the eye rests upon , sea or shore or city height, there is a charm in the aspect. The grounds comprise 635 acres, divided into three sections. In the centre are grouped the eleven exhibit palaces and testival hall. To the west, spreading fanshaped along the bay, are located the pavilions for foreign nations and tne imposing buildings and race Fack, covering 65 acres, the aviation field, and drill grounds, capable of accommodating 10,000 troops at one me. To the east of the exhibit palaces lie the 65 acres devoted to the amusement concessions.

When the Panama Canal is. quite ready for steam traffic according to an American paper, it will be as near “foolproof” is it is possible to make it In every possible way the sate navigation of the great waterway has been provided for by the construction of almost countless aids to navigation. The first thing the pilot of an incoming vessel sees ahead of him as he reaches the entrance of the canal_ is a huge light tower which points the way toward the first set of locks at either end. The locks themselves will be as brilliantly lightedJ the “Great White Way xt s elf aad passage of a large ship, itself liS h t® d from stem to stern with is expected to become one of the most spectacular features of an interocean voyage Then comes the passage through the canal with its numerous range light towers on either ba its beacons and buoys, all of them showing either a white, red or green light There are along the canal twenty acetylene-lighted range towers twenty electric-lighted ones, forty-fiv electric-lighted beacons and about fifty-seven acetylene-lighted buoys. The range lights mark a line of 125 feet on either side of the middles of the channel, forming a lane 250 teet wide The wonderful waterway will be a fairyland by night for the New Zealand passengers of the future whose trip to the Old Country will be made by this short cut in preference to the cold and stormy passage across the Southern . Ocean and through the gale-swept Strait o Magellan or round the threatening Horn.

The Mayor of Auckland (Mr. C-_ J. Parr) left last Monday on a holiday trip to Australia extending over six weeks. He proposes to spend a fortnight in Adelaide, a week m Meltome, and then return t<.Sydney Mr. Parr will be joined in Sydney by

Mrs. Parr,

RAMBLES IN RUSSIA.

THE LAND OF MOSCOVY

The man who has travelled farther in imagination than even the Wandering Jew. H. G. Wells, who discovered the “Fourth Dimension,” the most distinguished of our modern novelists, who touches little that he does not adorn, has gone to the land of the Moscovite for-a new experience. “I have just spent two weeks in Russia,” he says, in a recent travel article, “and I find my mental arms full of such a .jumble of impressions and ideas as no other country has ever thrust into them. I stagger under the load, and it will take me months of reflection before I can begin to sort out this indiscriminate loot, this magnificent confusion of gifts. “Coming to Russia, as I did, by way of Berlin, the similarity of Russian and English was the more striking. In Berlin one could distinguish English people thirty yards off. In Russia they are indistinguishable. “Gur English sources of information about Russia come from a peculiar people who suffer from peculiar grievances. They had left me quite unprepared for this intimate resemblance.

“Subsequent experiences have not removed this first impression of an astonishing resemblance and sympathy; they have only added to it something else. And that something else is a realisation of a profound difference. I perceive now more clearly than I did at first that not only are the Russians and the English as alike as two gloves, but that they are as different as left and right. They are as different as east and west, as positive and negative, as midday and midnight, albeit the figures are the same. Or perhaps, to take a better image, they are as different as a wood engraving and a colour print of exactly the same thing. “I did not discover any explanation for this difference. I cannot even say whether it is something in the training and tradition or something in the race; it comes to me in a variety of aspects, and all I can do is to tell just one or two of the chief of these. “And quite the chief is that the Russian is profoundly religious. Italy abounds in noble churches because the Italians are artists and architects; a church is an essential part of the old English social system, but Moscow glitters with two thousand crosses because the people are organically Christian. I feel in Russia that for the first time in my life I am in

a country where Christianity is alive. The people I saw, crossing themselves whenever they passed a church, the bearded men who kissed the relics of the Church of the Assumption, the unkempt grave eyed pilgrim, with his ragged bundle on his back and his little tin teakettle slung in front of him, wiio was standing quite still beside a pillar in the same church, have no parallels in England. “In comparison England is altogether irreligious. The English churches in our city streets stand, as it were, apart and forgotten. St. Paul’s Cathedral floats over London like a neglected ornament in a busy house. If you go in you will find the most beautiful music, the most appreciative audiences —for it is an audience, not a congregation—and no sense of worship.

“Now it is remarakble that when J turn from the Russian altars to what I suppose is the opposite pole of Russian life, to the intelligence and to the life of the sceptical classes as I find it represented in plays ana novels and the stories that are told to me, I still find exactly the same contrast with England. It is not therefore a mere difference of creed that we are dealing with. I still find the Russian earnest and simple and warm and

religious. He still believes in a real presence. In the crisis of life the ‘emancipated’ Russian stops to talk philosophy and weigh moral values as his orthodox brother prays or goes upon a pilgrimage. These things are more real to them than action. For both of them there is a tribunal where verdicts matter more than the bare facts, the practicalities of life, the superficialities of life. They may give that tribunal different names or no name at all, but it is there, inside them. ‘But what is the good of talking now?’ asks the Englishman in an extremity, confessing himself entirely engaged by practicality. In an extremity the Russian always talks. I, who am an Englishman and have thought much of England all my life, do not know whether England has any faith at all, or if only it is very subtly and deeply hidden.”

Sir James Mills arrived in Europe by the Omrah. It was t.is intention to stay in Egypt for a few weeks, but he was troubled with acute rheumatism during the voyage, and so went right on with a view to taking a cure at one of the Continental resorts. He was met at Naples by his daughter, Miss Geraldine Mills, and they proceeded together to Vernet-les-Bains, where they will remain for some time.

HERE AND THERE

Mr. George Wright, of Epsom, accompanied by Mrs. Wright and his two (laughters, left Auckland last Tuesday for Wellington to join the Remuera for a trip to Europe. They will be absent for 12 or 15 months.

Mr. W. A. Kennedy, local manager cf the Unio’h Stemship Company, who Das been top a holiday trip to the Islands, has returned to Wellington by ttie Aorangi.

Miss Winifred Hardy, of Rakaia, uameroury, and her patient, ivir. Mackay, of Hatuma (Hawke’s Bay), have been in Rossshire, Scotland, where tney expected to remain for several months.

Mr. and Mrs. A. W. Rutherford, of Mendip Hills, North Canterbury, and their daughters, left Wellington by the Willochra last week for a pleasure trip.

Mr. and Mrs. Hallett, of Christchurch, leave for Sydney by the Hiver'na next week.

Lake Wakatipu, the largest of the Cold Lakes in Central Otago, has ever been a favourite resort of pleasureseekers and lovers of the beautiful. Its charming nooks and sylvan coves, a view of one of the latter appears in this issue, lend additional charm to its vast extent and rugged mountain peaks. This great sheet of water, which winds sinuously for sixty miles amidst the wildest mountain scenery, has connected with it a curious phenomenon. The lake, which is 1242 feet in depth, pulsates like a human heart. It has been described as the rythmic heaving and falling of the bosom of the lake, but has never been explained. Attention was first drawn to this peculiarity as far back as 1.873, and many theories have been advanced as to its cause, but no satisfactory explantion is on record.

Miss Ruby Roberts, the celebrated billiard player, and her mother, who have enjoyed their tour of New Zealand immensely, left Wellington last week by the WiEochra for Sydney.

Mr. W. A. Beddoe, Canadian Trade commissioner, left Auckland t°r Cisborne and the Fast Coast last week, where he intended giving addresses on the trade prospects within the Empire.

Mrs. Taylor, of Mangere, Auckland, accompanied by her daughter, Miss Rosa Taylor, who is well-known in Auckland show rings as an accomplished horsewoman, left last Monday by the Manuka to catch the Orient liner Orvieto for a trip to Europe.

Mr. H. G. White, an Australian visitor from Adelaide, left Auckland last week for a tour of the Rotorua district, Wairakei and Wellington before he returns to South Australia.

Miss Dorothy Baber, daughter of Dr. Baber, Remuera, left last week to. catch the Pacific and Orient steamer Morea for a trip to the Old Band. .

Mr. G. L. Thorburn, of the Electric 'Construction Company, Auckland, together with Mr. A. E. Acland, of the National Electric Engineering Company, of the same city, left Auckland last week to catch the P. and O. liner Morea for a trip to Europe on business and pleasure combined.

Mr. A. M. Myers, M.P. for Auckland East, has left London on his return to New Zealand, accompanied by Mrs. Myers ana lamuy. He will return by way of Canada, and arrives in Auckland by the Niagara on the second of next month.

Lady Hector and Miss Hector, ot Wellington, are at present engaged upon a pleasure tour of the North Island.

Homeward-bound passengers, if in doubt as to which steamer, to proceed, should communicate with Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son, and obtain a copy of “Cook’s 1914 Sailing and Fare List” (poster free); This noted firm make a speciality of round-world tours, combining first and second class. No commission or booking fee is charged to the passenger, and special privileges are obtained by using “Cook’s” tickets.,

Mr. and Mrs. J. Knight, formerly of Hamilton, but who have lately been residing at the Esplanade Hotel, Devonport, Auckland, left last: Monday by the Riverina to catch the Dutch Company’s steamer Houtman for Java. They intend spending three weeks in the spice islands, and will then proceed to Manilla, in the Phillipines, and Hongkong; At'the latter city the tourists will pick up a Cook’s tourist guide and will be personally conducted, via Shanghai, to Pekin. From the capital of the Celestial Empire the New Zealanders will travel through Manchuria and Japan. After touring the latter country they return to Vancouver, and expect to reach Auckland by way of San Fran-, cisco and Honolulu, after an enjoyable trip of nine months’ duration. A gentleman who recently left Wellington to visit some relatives in Ashburton sent a telegram from the Empire City at 4 p.m. on the day of his departure, and arrived by the first express on the following day. He was surprised to learn that he had overtaken the telegram, which was delivered an hour later. Another instance occurred bn Saturday (continues the Ashburton “Guardian”), when a telegam handed in at the * Christchurch railway station telegraph office at 11.45 a.m., announcing that the sender would arrive at Ashburton by the second express, was handed to him at nis home at 3 p.m. the same day.

In various parts of India, otters are used by the natives to catch fish. So rapid is the speed of the otter under water that no fish can escape them.

When not working, the otters are tied to stakes, like chained dogs.

The itinerary of the mail steamers of the Shaw Savill and Albion Line is to undergo an important change. It has been decided, for the purpose of accelerating the service, to omit Plymouth as a port of call on both the outward and the Homeward voyages. Outward-bound passengers will embark at London as usual, but will sail direct for Teneriffe, Capetown, Hobart, and New Zealand. The Home-ward-bound steamers, after leaving Teneriffe, will call at Cowes Roads, Southampton, to land mails and passengers, and will then proceed to London to discharge cargo. The accelerated service Homeward will be inaugurated by the lonic sailing on 16th July.

Settlers in the Ermedale and Blackwater districts, states the Southland “Times,” have been complaining of the depredations committed by a red deer stag. It seemed to afford him boundless amusement to chase cattle and sheep, and the damage he was in the habit of inflicting each season on crops was considerable. The settlers complained to the Southland Acclimatisation Society, and Mr. George R. Moffett, who has had considerable deer-stalking experience, was sent out with his rifle, and on Good Friday, to the delight of the settlers, he succeeded in laying low the hitherto elusive deer. The stag proved to be a splendid specimen;, being a thirteen-pointer. Mr. Moffett said the sttg was what is known as a hermit, and the pearl colour of his “points” proved that he was a bush inhabitant.

A distinguished member of the party of American scientists who will visit the Dominion in August is Dr. W. Morris Davis,- professor of physical geography and of geology at Harvard University and a geographer and geologist of worldrwide reputation. Though officially associated with the party, .he. will arrive’ in advance of it, as he 'is' now visiting the Pacific islands, and will travel from Suva to Auckland by the Makura, arriving on May 5." During his travels, Dr. Davis has not yet visited Australia and New Zealand. His present purpose is to investigate a number of geological problems as they are developed in this part of the earth.

Sportsmen may not be aware that the approaching shooting season will be a close one for the killing of pigeons. In conversation with the Hawke’s Bay Acclimatisation Society’s ranger, a Dannevirke reporter was informed that a good deal of illegal shooting of pigeons was at present going on in that district. “You can warn pot hunters,” he said, “that if I catch them, I will not hesitate to bring them before the - court and press - for the heaviest penalty possible. It is most unproper and unsportsmanlike, and they must be taught to respect the law.”

“The hotel at Jerusalem,” says a recent New Zealand traveller, “is right on the hill of Zion, and so we got a good view of the city and surrounding country. As we went out through the Jaffa gate, one of the eight, gates, we saw the remains of Herod’s palace, now used as a Turkish barracks, the soldiers busily doing their washing on the flat roof. We were shown where a portion of the city walls was pulled down a few years ago tb 1 let the German Em-

peror’s carriage pass to the hotel. On we went through the narrow streets jostling against human beings of all sorts. Now and again a string of camels laden with furniture, timber or mechandise, or else a little donkey came along and brushed one aside without a word of warning. This, at first, is rather startling till we ’are told, ‘donkeys only kick when stomach is full. These never kick here, for stomach is always empty! ’ ”

From Port Said, says a Wanganui lady now touring in the Old World, we sailed to Jaffa, a one-nights’ trip by Messageries' steamer. . The landing at Jaffa is rather exciting, being done by small boiat, but if at all rough, passengers and cargo must go on to Harfa. We were fortunate in having a lovely morning, but as the boat was skilfully shot through a very norrow opening between the cruel-looking rocks, one understood what a dangerous landing-place it could be. Once safely through, the boatman stood up and with hands extended said: “Welcome.” At Jaffa we seemed to step into the New Testament straight away. Our first excursion was to where Dorcas lived and performed her good works. Her followers invoke the help of the Singer sewing machine in these latter days in the various Dorcas Societies. Here, Tabitha had died, as will be remembered, and amidst the lamentations of the widows, St. Peter came to the rescue and raised Tabitha from the dead. Then we followed St. Peter to where he stayed with “one Simon, a tanner,” whom one of our party persisted in styling “Simon the Cellarer!” The two industries of Jaffa are growing oranges and making soap. We are told there is an export trade to Liverpool alone of a million and a-half boxes of oranges yearly. We watched one little chap, nine years old, making boxes. He worked very quickly and told our guide he could make one hundred in a day, working ten hours. For this he got 6d. We saw thousands of oranges being . carefully wrapped in tissue paper for export. Certainly the fruit deserves the name it has got of being the best grown in any country. Camels, donkeys and human beings were everywhere laden with empty boxes or timber for making, them, also with large consignments of ripe fruit for the vessels going out of port.

Mr. and Mrs. F. Kelly, of Kawakawa, Bay of Islands, leave on a trip to the Old Country this month by the Shaw Savill liner Corinthic.

The fishing season draws to a close. At the end of next month the rod and creel will again take up their place on a high shelf until another summer ushers in the sport of the streams. The Auckland trout streams have provided good sport, but although the Waikato River is well stocked with good fish, still, owing to the abundance of natural feed in the river, they are hard to catch. The trout at Rotorua and Taupo have shown an improvement in condition this season, but cannot be compared with those captured a few years ago. Fewer fishermen than usual have visited the various lakes and streams this season. Visitors from overseas, who come to the Dominion each year solely for the trout fishing, have been kept away by the epidemic and by the reports regarding the deterioration of the fish. At present the . trout-fishing season begins on November Ist and extends to May 31st in the Auckland province, but in the South it opens a month earlier. If the season opened on the same date all over New Zealand, it is claimed, many fishermen would begin their sport in the Auckland province, and thus the local society would benefit. Auckland anglers are at a disadvantage compared with their Southern brethren, as there are but few streams within easy reach of the city which are likely to yield good sport. In order to procure good fishing, anglers must be prepared to take a week’s holiday at Okcroire or some other fishing centre. The result is that fewer are able to enjoy the sport than would be the case if well-stocked streams were close at hand, as is the case in many Southern towns. Another innovation which has taken place is the putting of quinnat salmon in the Waikato Rver. The quinnat salmon which were on view in the aquarium at the Auckland Exhibition have already been placed in the river at Huntly, and they will be joined shortly by 1200 more from the hatcheries. Whether this experiment proves to be a success or not time alone will show. Salmon in New Zealand streams have not thrived hitherto, and the reason has never been satisfactorily explained.

Cock -pheasants, quail, grey duck, teal, pukeko, and black swan may be shot this season, it is stated in the ■“Gazette,” in the Wanganui Acclimatisation Society’s district.

Many visitors are still arriving in Rotorua, and the town has a busy appearance. The number of persons who made the round trip during the Easter holidays was considerably larger than during the corresponding season of last year. Sixty-two persons made the trip on Good Friday, and 238 on Saturday—a total of 300 for the days, or 90 more than the number for Good Friday and Saturday of last year.

Some time ago an agitation was started by the Napier Chamber of Commerce to have the northern side of :Lake Waikalremoana declared a scenic reserve, as the result of reports coming to hand that Europeans were in communication with Native owners for the purchase of land near the lake. Representations were made to the Government, but beyond the reply “that the matter will receive consideration” nothing more has been heard of the request. Surveyors have been engaged for some time on Crown land on the eastern side of the lake, and at the present time a run of about 6000 acres is being subdivided into two holdings. The country is only second-class land, thickly wooded, and at best would not average more than half a sheep to the acre. The suggestion of the Commissioner of Crown Lands, when the Chamber of Commerce had the matter in hand, was that the Government should acquire all the land on the north side from the lake to the sky-line.

Omsk, Siberia, where several Aucklanders are engaged in the mining industry, has become the outfitting point for an extraordinary migration, estimated at 2,000,000 people annually, which pours into the country bordering on Mongolia. Nothing in Europe or Asia has ever been quite so like the springing up of the great cities of the American Middle West as is the growth to-day of new towns in Siberia. Except that the tide is moving east instead of west the movement has many parallels to .the wonderful migration which won the West for America, There are, however, two striking differences. The first is that the pioneering is comparatively luxurious compared to the American movement, while the natives, instead of being swept aside, are being absorbed by intermarriage with the settler. The ten-day journey up th e Irtish River from Omsk into the promised land is made by steamboats which are the last word in the luxury and convenience of river traffic. It is by no means a monotonous journey, as the river swarms with wild fowl and four-footed game, while the scenery in many places is wonderful. That Omsk intends to become a modern city as soon as possible is indicated by the condition of her streets. In the business section of the town sewers, gas mains, and underground telegraph and telephone wires are' being installed, while street-car track layers are working over the heads of the diggers. Similar work is being done in many other of the new Siberian towns.

A New Zealand lady abroad, who is now travelling in the Holly Land, gives an interesting account of the road from Jerusalem to Jericho, so famous in Holy Writ. “The day was

fine,” she says, “and the road was full of interesting sights and was vivid with scarlet anemones and blue forget-me-nots. Here we saw the sheep and goats following their shepherd over the hills, and aso heard the shepherd playing on the reed pipes exactly as David of old may have done. The Jordan was a little disappointing as just here where it flows into the Dead Sea it was cloudy and muddy with uninteresting banks, immersion in it the last thing one wo ild wish. The Dead Sea, however, looked beautiful, and quite unlike what we had pictured it, as its little tide sent miniature breakers up to our feet, on the most lovely pebbly beach. We heard there were great expectations of petroleum being found here. If so, the scene will certainly be changed. All about, the land belongs to the Sultan, money having been lent on it at 20 per cent, interest or else the owner was taxed out of existence,

a tax of four shillings yearly having at one time been exacted for every olive tree owned. In reply to our question as to who owned this land, we were frankly told “the last thief, the Sultan.” We saw “Elisha’s fountain,” where he threw in a cruse of salt. This is the modern Jericho’s water supply. At the same time we were cautioned not to drink it, so came to the painful conclusion the miracle was hardl r miraculous enough for these days of chemical analysis. The drive back to Jerusalem the next day was delightful. Wild flowers of all sorts flourish in profusion. Millions, of them were there. At times the ground for miles was like a gay We saw Gilgal, with one lonely tree on it, Mt. Pisgah in the distance, the Valley of Moab,. and the Wildernesses of Judaep,. We stopped for lunch at the fountain of the Apostles, with its never-failing spring of water.

To a passenger proceeding to England or elsewhere, the importance of obtaining reliable and unbiassed information canot be over-estimated. Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son, with offices all over the world, act as booking agents for every line. Intending passengers should send at once for this firm’s useful publication, “Cook’s 1914 Sailing and Fare List” (posted free), and obtain an offer of berth in steamer desired.

The Southern Alps is not the only place in New Zealand for alpine climbers. Mr. Frind, F.R.G.S., a Canadian tourist, has also been fiver the Tongariro National Park, and climbed the volcanic peaks of Tongariro and Ruapehu. This is a mountain resort wuich, now that the park has been placed in charge of the Tourist Department, wiT see a lot of development. At present it is comparatively little known, but Mr. Frind is of opinion that it will not take much effort to make it known, as it is an ideal mountain resort for all parts of the North Island, and there is no reason why Ruapehu, Tongariro, and Ngaruahoe should not be even more popular than Eigmont now is. At present there is little skiing done in New Zealand, and then only by one or two experts at Mount Cook, but Mr. Frind advocates the formation of skiing sections in an alpine club; Ruapehu presents as many opportunities for this sport as does Mount Cook. It is a fascinating pastime that requires considerable skill, and once the sport is started it should be as popular here as it is at Mount Kosciusko.

At a meeting of the Auckland Commercial Travellers’ Association, satisfaction was expressed at the fact that a reciprocal treaty has now been Anally .arranged between the New Zealand Commercial Travellers and Warehousemen’s Associations and similar bodies in Australia. For the past ten years the Auckland Association has been moving in the direction of bringing about this treaty. It was reported at the local committee meeting that a meeting of representatives of the various Australian associations was held at Melbourne on April 11, at which New Zealand delegates were also present. A cable message was received from Mr. D. McPherson, the president of the United Commercial Travellers’ Association of New Zealand, who attended the Melbourne conference as one of the delegates. He stated that the conference had been very success-

ful, and that the treaty between the Australian and New Zealand Associations had been ratified. The treaty provides: — (1) That all members of associations affiliated to either the New Zealand or Australian controlling bodies are entitled to full recirrocal club privileges from each other. Credentials, of course, it was explained, would have to be presented in the form of members’ tickets or receipts for current year’s subscription. (2) Bona-fide travellers’ certificates and badges of either association are to be mutually recognised. (3) In all matters of general routine each association in Australia or New Zealand is to act as agent for the other.

An indication of the growing popularity of Mount Cook is that the new Hermitage, which has now been in use about two months, has been filled to its utmost capacity all along, and the Tourist Department has had to notify intending visitors that the place is already overcrowded. Had there been sufficient accommodation, between 30 and 40 additional visitors would have been visiting there. An institution that would greatly add to the popularity of the Alps as a health resort, and one that would be a and holiday resort, and one that would be a great convenience to the climbers that go there each year from other countries, is an Alpine Club. An enthusiastic Canadian mountaineer, now in New Zealand, said that a movement with that object in view was already on foot. The matter had been taken up by some enthusiasts in Dunedin, and it only wanted someone to move for the club to soon become a definite accomplishment. Besides the numerous New Zealand climbers who would benefit by such an institution there were a great many more in Australia who. would appreciate it. There is already an Alpine Club in New South Wales in connection with Mount Kosciusko, where there are numerous skiing clubs that might popularise this sport in New Zealand, where there were plenty of opportunities for it. A New Zealand Alpine Club could reciprocate with an Australian Club in an exchange of membership privileges, and ■ there were many other ways in which mountaineering would benefit.