The Good Old Times.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume 1, Issue 10, 1 July 1900, Page 5

The Good Old Times.

SOME NOTES ON PIONEER WELLINGTON.

J3y Forrest Ross

BUSY town whose crowded suburbs stretch long arms to the ocean and up the bare hills ; a city whose great warehouses are built where the waves used to ebb and

flow, and whose main street

(Lambton Quay) follows the curve of the one-time beaoh ; a splendid harbour where large ships can lie in safety but a few yards from the roads along which the trains thunder; a society that considers itself the crime de la crime of New Zealand, enriched by the presence of Parliament and vice-royalty ; a city of to-day, fresher and purer than ils greater elder sisters, yet aping their follies and their fashions — this is Wellington in nineteen hundred, anno Domini.

It is marvellous that only a little more than half-a-century has passed since the pioneer settlers anchored in the harbour, and looked at their new land. Perhaps, for voyages in those days were tedious, and floating palaces as yet unbuilt, any terra fir ma. would have seemed fair to eyes tired of water and sky. But Port Nicholson, so named after the captain of the Brsfc ship that anchored in the harbour, must have been wonderfully beautiful in 'those early days. Beyond the curves of gleaming beach lay grassy slopes and clumps of native trees, where nestled picturesque huts. And further, encircling the flat, rose richlywooded hills, musical with silver streams and songs of birds, and gorgeous in due season with unfamiliar blossoms. We dwellers in. the Wellington of to-day can

find it in our hearts to envy our pioneer

Vol. I,— No. 10.— 53.

ancestors. Our hills iiro bare mid brown, and our trees arc- mostly ghastly scare-crows of their forest prototypes. Kven whoro a survivor has been left for a time to beautify the bricks and mortar of civilisation it is generally chopped down at last to make room for gas-pipes or drains. So the scarlet tassola of the rata and the silver stars of tlio clematis have fled from tho hills of Wellington. When the first contingent wore being trained in their Karori camp we found, as we wandered on the hills and looked down on the men, some rata blossom, and yet Karori wns said to bo once covered with thick forest, and to bo the only rural district in connection with Thorudon. But wild flowers are hard to iiiid in any quantity near Wellington. Our .bush has been sacrified by tho pioneers to tho fear of Maoris and of fire.

Capain Cook novor was in Port Nicholson. He lay outside and scanned the rocks with a critical and disapproving eyo, and sailed on for Queen Charlotte ftound, which ho visited several times. The first settlers pitched their tents at Petone, but the vagaries of the Hutt lliver interfered with their plans, and they "flitted" to Pipitea, that part of Wellington we now call Thorndon. Hero there was a Maori pa — indeed, Mr. Juhnston's house in llobsou-htreot has taken its name from that fact. At Pipitea Point eventually were built the courts of justice and other kindred institutions, while another flat, further along, called To Aro, was the commercial end of the town. The 1 reason of this was that the latter was at the virtual head of the bay, and vessels could lie there at the various little wharves. To

Aro also had the proud distinction of possessing the gaol. The churches were divided— the Episcopal Church being not far from the courts of justice— and there were barracks at both ends of the town, To-day the conditions are little changed, and court and commerce keep their respective ancient positions. It is curious with what diverse feelings the early settlers regarded the "ground where first they trod." Some pessimistic individuals, as they marked the wild country around and the dense hush to be cleared, thought Port Nicholson a most un-

good figures vastly well, and we never minded if our partners at a dance didn't wear dress- clothes. If he wore a coat it was really more than we expected !" , From some of the emigrants' letters home we gather their early impressions of Wellington : "It is a beautiful country," writes one woman, " but I am so scared of the natives." And yet the Maoris, until they learnt treachery from the whites, were most friendly, and the first Englishwoman to land was, to use her own curious words, "Nearly eaten by them,"so overwhelming were their inquisitive, yet kindly attentions. "Port

From n, Slcetch published in 1849 byS. C. Brees, C.E,

promising site for a town. Had there been ships to take them; they would then and there have transported themselves and their misgivings to South America. Probably the infant colony would not have suffered by their departure. But these grumblers were the exceptions, and , faith, hope and courage seemed to be common qualities in our pioneers. " Ah," says a dear frail old lady, with still a twinkle in her dark eye, "We girls had fine men to pick and choose from in the early days, far better than the young fellows whom you chatter and flirt with now. And let me tell you, girls, red. shirts set off

Nicholson," writes a girl, "is a paradise. Mother says it ; reminds her of Scotland' — a pathetic touch that gives an insight into a world of tender memories. One settler, who was lost to journalism, waxed fervid over the loveliness of his new land, and even embroidered plain facts — as journalists sometimes do. He classed burning mountains and natives from six to seven feet high among the- minor attractions ( of New Zealand. Another pioneer — a' sort of mute inglorious Milton— describes the >" delightful melodies the songsters in the leafy groves produce. . In all notes and keys they try to

out- vie each other." He also " inhaled the sweet fragrance of flowers, beheld the cataract loudly murmuring as it gushed to the sea, and watched the sport of hundreds of paroquets in their native beauty " — all in the intervals of cutting down trees or tilling the virgin soil. Doubtless this pioneer of poetic phrases could wield an axe or a spade with any of his comrades, but one feels sure that the moment a poet's corner was started in the Port Nicholson paper he would be the first to fill it. Touched by his imagination the commonest actions become poetic. He writes to a friend in England, " I washed me in a pristine spring;" a smaller soul

even necessaries, they had the anxiety of watching over the children, and foaring, when times grew evil, for the safoty of their sons and husbands. One reads of suddon storms on the harbour, of wrecked boats and loss of life, of nights, nay weeks, of watching for stealthy foes, of dread epidemics that fell hardest on the little ones. But the women pioneers, too, possessed infinite courage, trust, and hope, and now, vvhou time has softened the shadows of the past, the old women who were girls then speak with a sigh of the v good old times," whou all lived like one great family, and cards and conventionality were unknown.

In some cases, houses in detached parts were brought out by the colonists. But the natives built good raupo huts for one- fifth of the cost of importing the material. These were built with totara timber logs laced with reeds, and thatched in the Maori fashion. One house, 36 x 22 feet, cost 20s or 30s in goods, and took twelve natives a month to build. Another cost the householder nine pairs of blankets. Doors and windows were extras, like electric light and high pressure boilers nowadays. A man, writing Home to a friend who intended to emigrate, tells him not to bring a house but to bring doors, windows, and fittings. Timber there was in abundance. Indeed, about 1844 light vessels were built at Wellington, besides many canoes and whaleboats. Barrett's Hotel, a well-known landmark on Lambton Quay, was originally brought from the Old Country by Dr. Evans. But Barrett transformed it into a hotel and added a wing, which contained a billard-room below and a Freemason's Hall above. An interesting story is told in connection with this hotel. A food famine aroso in Nelson Settlement, and some men, led by the brother of Mr 0. H. Mills, M.H.R., of Havelock, rowed a canoe from Nelson to Wellington. Arriving there, they ran the bow of the canoe up the beach until it stuck in the front door of Barrett's Hotel. The boat therefore blocked the thoroughfare, which in those days was the beach, and the men stood and demanded toll of those that had to climb over to get to the other part of the town. With the moi:ey thus obtained they bought food supplies and went back to Nelson in triumph. It is said that in those halcyon days a nice house and ten acres of ground by the beach could be got for a tive pound note. Of course at first when settlers landed there was no accommodation for them. Some Mark Tapleyan souls improvised shelters by stretching a sheet across some sticks, and lying down beneath on a bed of out scrub. And only those who have known . haw delightful and fragrant a couch manuka scrub makes can

realize that these pioneers might be fully as comfortable as others on spring mattresses in luxurious bedrooms, that is, provided the weather was kindly. One poor woman had to camp out on the beach, all the first night after she landed. It was raining in torrents, and her devoted husband sat for three hours holding an umbrella over her while she slept. Then his drowziness overcame his devotion, and he rolled himself, too, in the blankets and slumbered heedless of the rain. As the town grew, the houses and shops were built, for convenience sake, along the beach. Wellington Terrace, where now houses thickly cluster, was a series oi undulating hills with still much timber on them. Busy hands found plenty of work. One energetic woman let off her steam and earned a nice little sum by " washing four gents " on the voyage. She was shrewd as well as hard working, for she drove notable bargains with the Maoris, and once, she relates with pardonable pride, bought a pig of 651bs from the King — an aristocratic pig, mark you — for her bad rug. But the natives soon grew more wily, and the good times passed when they would exchange a pigeon for a biscuit, or a basket containing 3Olbs of potatoes for a piece of pig-tail tobacco. Housekeeping was at once simpler and more complex in that little colony of huts beside the harbour waters. As a rule the menus were not varied. The changes were rung on salt beef and fish, pork, potatoes and bread. Everything else was too expensive for small incomes. But after a man has been working hard, simple fare does not come amiss, and he does not care for caviare or pate de foie (jrcis. Mutton was among the luxuries. Hear that, oh ye dwellers on the stations of to-day who grumble at the perennial chop ! One man states that he only tasted it once in three years, and then he was dining out! Butter probably was only used on high days and holidays, for it was 4s a pound. Eggs were 3d each, flour 8d per Ib, and porter Is 6d a bottle, so that living w#B a fairly expensive matter in those days of Arcady.

From an old Engraving,

would have merely had a bathe in the

creek

Doubtless the first impressions of the little lassie who came ashore hugging her doll were not so favourable. Never before had the Maoris seen such a thing as a doll, and they gathered round the child begging to look at it, and wanting to know if it were meant for the great Queen across the seas. As a rule one hears little of women, and the part they took in the struggle to gain a footing in the new land. And yet, perhaps, their lot was as hard, and maybe harder, than that of the men, for, in addition to the toil and the lack of comforts and, at times,

Light hearts make toil easy, and a girl writing Home about 1841 declares that the life was a regular picnic, and that it was much more lively than in the town sho came from, for to one visitor there they had six at Port Nicholson. The novelty of cooking in the open air interested another damsel intensely. However, her father purchased & galley from the ship Duke of Roxburgh, so that things culinary grew commonplace. It was the same girl who wrote : — " Papa was appointed postmaster for the colony, and there are sometimes two or three hundred letters from Sydney. So you may have some idea of the population !"

The early newspapers are well worth studying. At first the advertisements are strictly of a utilitarian character, and set forth the merits of portable ovens and patent medicines. But gradually the frivolous feminine element may be noticed. Scotch bonnets and wearing apparel are first advertised. A little later, when folks began to find out the truth of the old saying, " All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy," people are requested to call and inspect toys, Gosnell's perfumes, and gentlemen's

yet it comes first on the list. " iEsop'a Fables " jj'ssuitablo, but what about " Fornalo Policy Detected," and "The Now Academy of Compliments or Lover's Secretary " ? " The Highwaymen " would doubtless bo fascinating reading to juveniles but scarcely improving, while " The Moraoirs of Amoranda, or the Reformed Coquette " v careful mother would be inclined to koopout of her little daughter's reach. Yet, at tho end of this marvellous catalogue, coino the sweet old tales that are ever new,

fashionable dress clothing. The corduroy and flannel-shirt dances had passed and more formal assemblies had taken their place, though it is probable that for a long time the men who blossomed out in the "fashionable dress clothing" were few in number. Here is a most extraordinary list of juvenile books published in the early papers. Judging from the variety, the pioneer child must have been precocious and omivorous- " Russell's Sermons " is not exactly a volume one would present a child with, and

"Mother Bunch" and "Push in liooin."

A little advertisement announces fushionii prepared, and whalebone and canes for ladies' bonnets, the erections with perambulator hoods that JJeech has drawn for uk. Here is a quaint announcement, the very first advertisement of an educational nature :

" To the heads of families. — A married lady (no youthful, frivolous chit of a girl, mark you), just arrived from Home— long accustomed to tuition — would be happy to attend families as governess. She flatters herself (what elegant periphrases) she iv

capable of instructing in all branches of female education, French, music, harp, guitar, etc."

One cannot help wondering who -was fortunate enough to obtain this paragon of an instructress, and whether she imprinted the hall-mark of " Home " culture on her pupils. Something in the wording suggests back-boards and other female educational instruments of torture.

In those early days they read and loved their Dickens, and certain jovial souls

bidden to take place by the missionaries, probably because it might excite the natives overmuch. Flags waved over the houses, and a large white flag — perhaps a tablecloth utilised for the purpose — fluttered over the hall where a ball was held the same eveniiig. But, alas, in those dark agfes the lady correspondent did not exist, and we get no glimpse of the gay and glittering throng that gathered from far and -wide. Very likely many trudged —as an old lady told me she had often done — miles through

formed a Pickwick Club "to show their relish," as they quaintly put it, " for ihe inimitable works of Boz." At a grand f&te, held on a certain Monday in 1840 at Te Aro, this same club gave a prize for a hurdle race. There were gay doings that day in the town. The " fairer portions of creation " — as the paper gallantly terms the women — turned out in force to see the sports, a cricket match between the Thorndon and Britannia Clubs, whaleboat races and athletics. It is said that a canoe race, in which the Maoris were to take part, was organised, but was for-

mire and tussock, with Wellington boots drawn on over dainty dancing-slippers. And it is probable they enjoyed themselves all the better when they emerged, pretty butterflies,from their chrysalis-like coverings. There were no -wall-flowers in those halcyon days, for girls were scarce and men were numerous; and the type of men who formed the early settlers was one that could dance as well as work, and possibly dance all the better for the toil. .BiW-ness and ennui were unknown — there was no- time or room for them in pioneer economy.

Even in those times people found leisure for newspaper argument, and the names of places formed a fertile subject of discussion. The chalky cliff along the S.E. coast of the North Island was proposed to be called Albonia, but the poetic suggestion fell flat. "Young Nick's Head " — a cape on one side of Gisborne, named by Cook after a cabin-boy — was objected to as uneuphonious, but it keeps its name to this day.

The " good old times " are gone, and each year sees the ancient landmarks becoming fewer and fewer. The plague scare and the subsequent sanitary reforms - have levelled some j others have been ousted to make way

In "Woodward-street, running down from the Wellington Club to the Quay, thoro is another old building utilised at present as a bottle storo. It has fallen on evil daya, for in pioneer times it was the Congregational Church built by Mr. Woodward, a leading Congregationalist, who has bequeathed his namo to the stroot

it is in

The old Exchange used to stand near tbo Opera House, but it was destroyed by fire. It was used as a reading-room and a public hall in the early days.

The Thistle Inn was a well-known hostolry in the first days of the colony. It stood at

for newer and more modern buildings, as is the way with humans. Still, however, we possess here and thei'e a few survivals of the old days. One of the oldest brick buildings, if not the oldest, is Barrett's Hotel, owned and built by Mr John PHmmer. This, however, is not the old Barrett's Hotel, but simply called after it. It was erected about '47, and for a brief season was utilised as Government offices. Another very old building used to be the Roman Catholic Presbytery, and was known familiarly as " Father Ryley's house." It is said to be the oldest edifice now standing in Wellington, and is surrounded by houses. It is in Mount-street.

the corner of Murphy-stroet and Lambton Quay, and was noted for its capital accommodation. In latter years it had lost its name, given it, probably by some eathusiastio Scotchman, and its low, old-fashioned windows contained little but a fo"V bottles of sweets and a legend announcing " soda and milk." Only recently, when fcho Royal Hotel was being extended, was this relic of old times pulled down.

Another old building is Messrs Befchune and Hunter's offices, near the Opera House, while still another was the old house in which Mr Rhodes lived. This has been quite lately demolished. It was the quaintest of homes, with tiny narrow stair-

cases leading to nests of little rooms, fine panels of what was said to be Singapore cedar, bits of coloured glass in the windows, and an elaborate scheme of decoration in the upper hall, whose ceiling was painted blue sky with white clouds, and whose wall had a curious sort of fresco with an Italian landscape upon it. It must have been, in the old times, before the paint got dim and the wood worm-eaten, a perfect mansion. Underneath the house were cellars, with quaint loop-holes for muskets, and a large recess with a door. These were said to be built in case of a Maori rising.

in Mr Bi'ee's wonderful book, " Pictorial Illustrations of New Zealand," published in 1849, there is a picture of Hawkestonestreet with one house, and glimpses of two or three others peering over the hill. Tho

Bank, shown in another engraving, is a shingled cottage, with a sentinel soldier in front of the door, and an officer on a curvetting steed giving orders to a file of whitetrousered, short-jacketed Tommy Atkins of that period.

The " good old times " are gone, and with them most of the figures who worked and played, rejoiced and sorrowed, in those faroff days. The hardships and toil they endured made perhaps their joys the keener, as darker shadows make brighter lights in a painting. To the pioneers we owe much of our comfort and our well-being. All honour to their courago in times of danger, their hope in the days to come. We who live in those good days should never forget the men and women who laid the fouuda-

tions of our prosperous city