DAFFODIL PLANTING.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVII, Issue 15, 10 April 1912, Page 38

DAFFODIL PLANTING.

WHAT TO GROW AND HOW' TO GROW IT.

By

"WOODSIDE.")

Owing to the unusual rains we have enjoyed (or otherwise) during the last two months, the present -eason lias been very favourable for the early planting of the-e popular bulbs. ami probably those who go in for extensive planting are now well forward with the work. There is no doubt that, conditions being favourable, early planting gives the best re-ult-. as it enables the bulbs to make strong root growth before the buds get restive. Bulbs kept out of the ground for another month or two will force blooms more quickly, but they are weakened, and the next season’s blooming is detrimentally affected. However, those who have been delayed in their pl.inting operations, or have been slow in deciding what to plant, h ive still tint? to prepare for a good display of these indispensable spring favourites, if the matter is taken in hand at once. For those who merely wish for a few “daff-” as an ad\ an e-guard in the mixed border, the best mode of planting is in clumps ( >f a dozen or more, one variety only in a clump. It is a mistake to plant dumps of mixed kinds, and so have them straggling into bloom two or three at a time. To produce the best effect all the plants in a clump should bloom simultaneously. When they have done flowering, the foliage may be tied up. and annuals planted so as to take the place of the daffodils as they ripen off. and so the untidiness of the process is avoided. Where a large quantity of blooms is required either for exhibition or cutting, two methods of planting are open for choice. Given ample -pace, the best way is to plant either in -ingle or double row- (north and south). leaving about two f»*et or so between row - to allow for comfortable working, to keep down weeds ami -fir the surface, both matters of the first necessity for their well doing. The bulb- -hould be planted from 3 to 6 inches apart in the rows (according to variety i. so that they may Iw left 3 or 4 years without lifting, especial-

iy if they have been given a fairly liberal dressing of coarse bone meal at planting. This will allow room for their natural increase without crowding. It is a good plan to divide the daffodil garden into three sections. and lift the bulbs annually in rotation, each section thus remaining in the soil three seasons. It i* much easier to handle a third of your stork each year, and there is les> risk of mixing the bulbs, which is liable to occur in taking up and stor-

ing large quantities, and those who have had to do it know what a troublesome job "roguing” a lot of mixtures is. Besides this, some varieties such as Maximus. M. J. Berkeley, (dory of Leiden, Katherine Spurred, and others do not like annual lifting, and throw more blooms if left undisturbed for 2 or 3 years or even longer. In small gardens where it is necessary to economise ground, or where fewer bulbs of the choicest kinds are grown, the best plan. I think, is to make raised beds 4 to 5 feet wide, and of convenient length (east and west), planting the bulbs in rows (north and south) across them, the rows 6 to 9 imho* apart. Thft weeding and working can then be conveniently done from either side, and the

tramping of the soil, which in wet weather on heavy la ml wedges the bulbs too tight, is avoided. Jarrah boards. 8 or 9 inches by one inch, make very suitable beds, the wood being very durable, and remaining sound for years in contact with the soil, tarring or other preserving process being unnecessary. The old creed that manure is poison to narcissi is now fairly exploded, and pre-sent-day cultivation proves th it they will stand considerable stimulation, pro-

vided the manure is not of a rank or heating nature. Experienced growers recommend basic slag, bones in various form*, ami thoroughly decomposed stockyard manure, a* safe and beneficial. Ordinary stable manure should be avoided, and whatever kind is used should l>e put wadi down, the soil being deeply worked. * » that the young roots do not come immediately in contact with the fertiliser. but have to penetrate to the cooler subsoil in search of it. Having planted your bulbs in one or other of these ways, the only further attention needed to ensure a wealth of choice blooms is to keep them free from weed* and stir the surface of the soil, ami destroy all slugs and snails. I cordially agree with the remarks made in the "Graphic,” of March 20, as

to planting Emperor and Empress in large numbers, and 1 think it will be a very long time before these two are superseded. Another variety which should also be largely planted is Mrs. W. I’. Ware, a very good bi-colour, flowering just before Empress. Last year I had over 299 blooms out at once on a 12-foot double row of this variety, and this season I have put in about 359 each of these three varieties. I'o the list of really good trumpet nar<i*si at a reasonable price, which was given in the "Graphic.” of March 27th. I would add "Queen of Holland.” about 5 a dozen. "Monarch.’’ 2/6 each, and "Admiral Makarotf.” and "Hamlet.” 3/6 each— English price. These are all large handsome flowers and strong doers. For those who can afford "Van Waveren's Giant.” about 29 each, this variety is an acquisition. being one of the few good things for which we have to thank the 1 hitch. In bi-colour ami white trumpet, the varieties mentioned in the list, can hardly be added to without a large rise in prices, though "Hulda.” with a tine white perianth and long primrose trumpet (about 7/6 each) is a nice flower. Pro fessor Thomas, of Auckland, has many «iood things among his seedlings, and when cheap enough for the average grower, they will greatly improve our daffodil gardens. Among the other sections many of the aiistocrats such as “White Queen.” "Homespun.” "Lady Margaret Bosca - wen.” "Glori l Mundi.’’ "Lucifer,’’ etc., are coming within the reach of the mav of moderate means, and will no doubt in the next few years displace the smaller varieties with which we have had to be -atisfied in past years.