Rearing Daffodils.
(B\ C. E. BUCKINGHAM. Lower Hutt. SOIL \N|) SITI VTION. It is generally admitted that with the exception of a few kinds, the daffodil will thrive in any garden -oil, but for choice I prefer a good turfy loam, con tabling plenty of fibre. The plot -hould be trenched, keeping the top -pit at the surface. The best situation is a well sheltered position, not too shady, with an eastern aspect for preference. PI. \\ I I NG. If the reader has any idea of becoming an exhibitor. I would advi-e that a space be allotted in the kitchen garden - that is. if there is not any gnuss plot available to be turned over. Tin* bulbs arc belter planted in beds about four feet wide, for this will allow the weed ing to be done without trampling on the beds. ’The row- should be at least one foot apart, and the bulbs about three inches from one another in the rows ( very i-t rong grow ers a little morel. ’The depth to plant is nest taken from the bulb itself, about twice the depth of the bulb from base to neck being a good rule to go by. In very dry locali ties they may be planted a little deeper. February and March are the best months to plant in. They will, as a rule, throw the best blooms tin' second season after planting. I find the white 'Trumpetdo better when planted closely, in a shady position: therefore, tin* more favoured parts should be reserved for I hem. ( UI/I'IN A I lON. After planting, very little attention ireqiiired. except weeding and keeping the surface well stirred; “in fact, daffodils
will <lo well for years without any care, but. being- an enthusiast, 1 do not advocate such treatment.” One tiling I would impress upon readers is never to < nt the foliage of their exhibition bulbs, ,i_ it is very detrimental. \l Wl'ItKS. Some growers recommend manures of various kinds, but I have alvvavs obtain the best blooms without the aid of manures, ami it the soil is as recommended, 1 would advise no manure to be used. Should the ground be poor, and require enriching, it is best to give a good drossing of cow manure in early spring, ami then plant the strongest feeding crop of vegetables that is convenient, which, when taken out. should leave the soil in first-rate condition for planting. Avoid chemical or natural manures con t lining ammonia. IiXIIII'.I rise. To obtain good blooms for exhibition purposes requires a good deal of care and judgment. especially when the choice is limited. 1 think that the Trmn pet varietiias open larger on the plant than if ent in the bud state, and if a covering of glass or light canvas can be given them, so much the better and All white trumpet varieties ire better shaded just before the buds break, until cut for exhibit ion. The red cupped vari eties are better cut in the Imd state, and kept in .i dark room of medium tempera Hue. and the colour will lie improved thereby. ST \<ll\<l. |‘o stage narcissi properly requires a little patience. They should not be too compact nor too strongly in the vases, and should have their own foliage, which can be obtained from the very common eet of bulbs grown for the purpose, Good staging means a great deal. for the merits of a good bloom poorly staged ma.v be overlooked by a judge. The name of each variety should be cle.uly written on clean labels. I \l.l. \( IKS. Most beginners have the idea that they must have expensive Imllis to have any
chance on the exhibition table, which is quite wrong - , as some of the cheapest varieties are still shown in all leading collections, both in the Old Country and
out here, and 1 append here a dozen that are likely to be standard varieties for years to come, viz., Emperor, Empress, Victoria, Mrs. Camni, Madame de Graaff, Katherine Spurrell, Duchess of Westminster, Cassandra, Barrii, Conspicuus, Sir Watkin, Lucifer, and Gloria
Mundi. One bulb of each of the above can be obtained for about 10/-.
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Bibliographic details
New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 13, 28 September 1910, Page 43
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695Rearing Daffodils. New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 13, 28 September 1910, Page 43
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