The World of Fashion

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 24, 9 December 1908, Page 58

The World of Fashion

.ARGUERITE.)

\ year of colour this undoubtedly is! Hats of such vivid and daring shades—when have we seen them b'fore? Giddy parasols of cerise or grass green; flaunting Pierrot ruches, not at all backward in their colour schemes. The world feminine when arrayed in its new summer clothes looks like an old-fashioned garden—Howers of all colours gaily blossoming together. And after all, why not? Is it not feui.ui.Pi*. and is not the sun shining? be flowers are all blooming—why not wc Even gowns which in other years have kept a virginal whiteness this year show touches of colour. It may be only a silk tic. narrow passed around the throat and knotted in front with long ends dangling; it may he a sash of soft blue or coral pink swathing a slender waist ; it may be but an artificial rose tucked into the laces of the bodice, but colour there must be. Each summer, in preparation for hot weather days, models of muslin and lace appear. Each summer we vow them lovelier. more fascinating, than before. As each yea«- brings some novelty to add to the beauty of the frocks, perhaps we are Hot >o far wrong. This season Taris has sent us over

some charming models of batiste and lace—a great deal of different laves used in combination and very little batiste. Their now beauty consists of wonderfully artistic lines, cleverly applied touches of colour, and the most fetching little balls and dangles of Irish crochet lace. These little balls are used lavishly to edge sleeves and draperies and to outline overskirts—in fact, anywhere that they can be applied they are to be found. Braiding of fine soutache has taken a new departure in its use on the sheerest of white fabrics. It is sometimes combined with English eyelet embroidery, but is quite as often used by itself, and is undoubtedly one ol the smartest novelties of the season. Skirts of quite diaphanous mulls are weighted with a braiding of soutache put on in intricate design sometimes a foot deep. Waists or little jackets are lavishly braided to match. There is a piquant charm about the use of this substantial trimming on such delicate stuffs—the fascination of contrasts again proved. But one shudders when one thinks of the effect of laundering on this combination! The cleansers will profit by the new fashion. All-over Valenciennes lace was used in

a very good model gown 1 saw the other day. Of course, other lace vyas com-

bined with it, and the inevitable little Irish lace danglers—l call them this for want of a better name —swayed merrily up and down the front. White gowns, both of the so-called lingerie variety and of still more elaborate fashioning, will be worn over slips of delicately coloured silks. Pink and blue will be. as always, the favourite choice, but under dresses of pale yellow, of violet and cool green, will all be seen. This has the advantage of exhibiting the work and the patterns of the laces to good advantage. It also has the practical and economical recommendation of giving a seeming variety of dresses with one white dress worn over different coloured slips with girdles and other small accessories to match. These underslips are made of taffeta silk, of China silk, or of coloured lawns. They are invariably cut on a princess model, and should be carefully fitted, for Hhe appearance of these unlined and unboned gowns depends very much on what is worn under them. A light boning is advisable in these underslips, and as much or as little time and expense as you feel inclined can be expended on their trimming. A deep flounce, either shaped or gathered and lace edged, and a lace beading and edging around the armholes and low-cut neck are necessary. Scarfs, sashes and belts of coloured materials will play an important part in these white costumes. rhe vogue for scarfs knotted in all kinds of audacious ways, which was the sartorial sensation oi Eashions' capital last winter, will be with us in a much modified form this summer. Long scarfs of wide Liberty ribbon, of chiffon and of thin silks, will be worn around the waist, tied as the fancy of the wearer dictates. The. Empire influence is felt in these white gowns as in all others. The waistline is raised, if not always in front, then almost invariably in the back. To emphasise this, coloured ribbon girdles deluxe the short waistline, ending in twin .'osettes at the back or some other definite conclusion. If lace is used to join the waist and skirt together, ingeniously designed me* dallions or lace are placed directly in front to simulate a large buckle. A*

Coats and Skirts in Shantung Silk.

Prominent among the gowns which are certain of success at the races must be reckoned the coat and skirt costumes carried out in Shantung silk, of that specially bright and beautiful texture in which this delightful fabric has been procurable this season. In some instances very smart effects are being produced by the combining of coats in Shantung silk, with chiffon skirts in the same colour closely tucked and pleated, and amide Up over foundations of white soft satin.

Coats and skirts of Shantung silk of the kind shown in our other illustration have a certain smart simplicity to recommend them, while at the same time, the coat, which is carried out in the newest Incroyable shape, is interesting as being

specially significant of the coming moda for the early autumn. The colour selected for this Shantung gown is a new, shade of cedar-wood brown, with just H hint of pink in its composition, a mixture of colouring which makes it very; becoming. The skirt, which is perfectly; plain and fairly long, is arranged with a short-waisted Princess effect, and finished with a draped belt of black soft satin, while the Incroyable coat has long tails at the back, and is cut with tv very smart double-breasted front, fastened with button's. The revers and the turn-over collar are partly of leaf-green, and partly of cedarwood brown Shantung, a contrast of colour which is most effective, as the green comes at the top and the brown underneath. There is an inner vest of cream laee, partly hidden under a jabot of pleated lawn, while the sleeves are perfectly plain, following exactly the line of the arm, as many of the newest sleeves will do. in the case of smart tailor-made coats, this season. Quite a; simple hat, but one which is, nevertheless very becoming, has been sketched with this brown Shantung coat and skirt. It is made in leaf-green Italian straw, to match the shade used for the uppei- revers and part of the collar, and trimmed with sharply pointed wings.

■ome brown and gome green. In front, there are choux of cream chiffon. This Same design might be carried out very Successfully in pale rose-pink or tur-guoise-blue Shantung, with the revers jtad part of the collar in black moire.

Once more the pouched corsage is modish, and, as this sketch of a bridesmaid’s dress demonstrates, the vogue is charmingly presented in the design, open* ed at the left side, to be laced across by means of silver cord. There is no collar to the bodice—a very strong feeling against the tall neckband has arisen this season —but the lace guinipe is edged with silver ribbon tied in a minute bow, beneath which accordion-pleated white chiffon falls in snowy fairness. The skirt is draped en t unique, with an edging of embroidery, and is opened from the knees downwards over accor-dion-pleated chiffon. A high-waisted effect is given to the bodice, and a long, sweeping train completes the picturesque impression of the toilette. So important a matter as that of sleeves must not be passed over without comment. They are of the double order, comprising an oversleeve of satin, laced across with silver cord, over an under one of white pleated chiffon and lace.