The New Sleeve.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 9, 26 August 1908, Page 67

The New Sleeve.

Pay attention to the matter of sleeves. Do you regret the passing elbow model? Do you wek ome the new severely simple substitute, which moulds the arms so closely that their shape is faithfuly reTlie new sleeve does more than that. It is put into the shoulders without a single suspicion of pouf, though the thin fabric of which it is composed is ruckled down the arms. Certainly, this is an extreme vogue, and. the. half measure will be widely preferred of merging the corsage drapery into the upper sleeve, thereby producing a Chinese effect that ie infinitely becoming to many women. From beneath ns a rule the long sleeve "merges, It is now cut in a straight bar over the back of the hand, instead

of in the front that was modish recently. In little details such as this do the dressmakers differentiate one week’s ef« forts from those of another! © © ® Value of Vivid Colourings. On most hats, of whatever character, there is a touch of vivid colouring to relieve the density of the tone scheme. This device was deemed necessary because of the prevalence of neutral tints, such as taupe, London smoke and elephant’s breath, used for mohair, lightweight serge, voile and ponge street suits of both the plain and elaborate order. With the three acknowledged shades of gray —slate, smoke and mouse—may most effectively be employed peacock or emerald

green, sis well as cerise and the more decided of the crushed berry tints. Browns and castors should always be enlivened, and with them may be used almost any of the apricot shades, the Empire greens and old-rose tones. Black and white or white and black costumes - -for there is a difference as well as a distinction —are the better for a vivid colour relief in the hat. This selection should bo governed by the complexion of the individual. To deepen the shade of her blue eyes, a blonde would best face her hat brim and trim its crown with one of the pottery bliiesj unless she prefers to yellow her hair and whiten her skin by the use of canary facings and trimmings. Cerise with a brunette colouring forms an elaborate, combination, and so also do some of the geranium sliades and the bright greens.

The Tailor-made Gown. A certain number of tailor-made gowns are always in request; and we are giving, therefore, a sketch of a very neat little frock of this description intended for morning wear which should be of special interest to those of our readers who are on holiday thoughts intent. Although it is carried out on intentionally simple lines, this gown embodies one or two

of the latest notions . for summer costumes of the tailor-made persuasion. In the first place, the skirt, which is of very fine white serge, is made in a short walking length, and although it fits quite closely. .round, the hips, where .it gives an Empire effect! to the figure, it nevertheless .flows out with a very becoming fulness at the. hem. Then, again, just below the line pf the. waist there is a double row of those gold buttons which seem to shine put now from all the smartest tailor-made costumes with an effect which is delightfully bright and cheerful under our too often sad grey skies. Buttons of a similar kind are also used to fasten the close-fitting arid very becoming

waistcoat of white pique, which is ar ranged at the throat with a white lawn vest and a high collar of folded muslin, finished with a neat little cravat of wliite silk ribbon. ( , The favourite Shantung silk in a beautiful shade of chestnut brown is used for the smartly cut eoat, the novel and chic shape of which adds considerably to the eharm of the toilette as a whole. It- is made in the latest semi-Empire shape, with habit- tails, divided in the centre of the back. The short-waisted effect is cleverly accentuated by a stitched belt of the same silk, while other lines of stitching are used with decorative effect upon the upper part of the Coat, and again upon the full eape,epaulettes. These epaulettes, by the way, are cut in one with the eoat and arranged so that they fall over the elbow sleeves and help to emphasize the outdoor effect of this smart little garment, which is further embellished with a collar and buttons of darker brown velvet. A neat hat, quite suitable for travelling, is worn with this gown. It is made iu soft brown Manila straw, with a band of darker brown velvet to encircle the crown, and at the side a ch-ver touch of contrasting colour, in the shape of a Nattier blue wing, fastened with a gold ornament. •© © © Fashion’s Latest. Tig straw rosettes. silky a ltd fine, arc taking the place of in.uiy feathery pompoms* One of the newest millinery fancies is to have big bows and rosettes of cretonne veiled in tulle. Soft dove grey and mist grey are mixed with splashes of brilliant colour ing. The alliance of slat’* grey with parsley green is being much approved of. What is. known as jockey and jade green are tones that serve well in I rimmi ngs’ this -season. Many narrow* ties <d‘ silk braid are edgededgvd with a piping of linen. On evening gowns waistbelts are .of .lace, with rather large butterfly bow s of the lace’ iixetl with a buckle. The gill with the long, slender neck should rejoice, for fashionable collars are higher than they ha\e been for some time, if not in the fhnu-. certainly'at the back and sides.