THE WORLD OF FASHION

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXV, Issue 2, 15 July 1905, Page 62

THE WORLD OF FASHION

(By

MARGUERITE.)

Some of tin* iihmlHs for afternoon blouses seem to have been specially designed with a view to using up the short lengths of pretty material which so many of us possess, and have almost despaired of ever using. A very pretty, effective, and

and one which the home dressmaker should be able to manage without any dilliculty, might be built on the lines of the model illustrated in our sketch. Three short remnants of different material could be employed to advantage in the construction of a smart little bodice of this kind. Silk of any description. crepe de chine, or velvet would serve for the bodice and upper part of the sleeves; any pretty piece of lace or guipure in our possession would make the vest and upper sleeves; while the fichu would look charming in chiffon, net. or gauze. If preferred, the sleeve might finish at the elbow, with a frill of lace showing beneath the turn-back cuff.

Ihe accompanying cut portrays one of the more elaborate of the new models in plaited blouse dresses for girls. How ever, its elaborateness is in its looks, not in its making, which the home dressmaker will make light work of with the pattern. The chemisette is removable and may be made of contrasting colour or of white tucked lawn or dotted muslin. The huge box plaits of the skirt stitched to yoke depth give it a much-desired jaunty effect.

There seems no hick of novelty in millinery, anil Dame Fashion has now taken a fancy for small shapes, as all the most fashionable ones are smaller than those of yesteryear. Nearly all the shapes, however, unite in the one characteristic, and either turn up high at the back and slant downwards to the nose, or are turned up at the sides. Among the newest shapes are the polo, or "‘pill-box,” the latter name describing their shape exactly. They are small and round, and are made either of straw or tulle, and are only about three inches high. They need, however, a good deal of management and wearing to look well. The Marquise shapes are very popular, a fact due chiefly to their becomingness, as they are of modified tricorne shape, and can be bent to fit the hair in a very convenient way. One I have seen was of straw, each plait shading from green to brown, trimmed with brown panne velvet, and a cluster of greeny brown flowers which was both smart and becoming. The Breton Sailor is to the fore again, but this season is sharply tilted up at the baek where a large cachepeigne of flowers, foliage, and ribbon

makes a smart finish. The Louis XV. hat, a variety of the “tricorne” shape, is very smart, but is worn at the sides with a bunch of flowers and roses. Tulle and chiffon are materials largely employed in the manufacture of the hats, but 1 need hardly say that though it is extremely dainty and pretty, it is not advisable for those who have to study economy. Roses and violets, used both together and separately, will be among the favourite flowers this spring for millinery purposes. Tiny hats are covered closely with Parma violets, anil having for sole trimming a cluster of damask roses on one side. Or perhaps the little hat is made entirely of white violets, and tl.en the roses may be of deepest yellow or palest pink. Hats that are carried out in various picture shapes, both in glace silk and in moire, are also being lavishly trimmed with roses. The flowers are used sometimes alone simply to border the crown or lift the brim off the hair, and sometimes in company with Paradise plumes or long ostrich feathers. Many of these roses are tinted in various weird and unnatural colourings, includ-

ing many shades of purple and pale blue, violet, green, and terra-cotta, which are infinitely more curious than becoming. THE NEW HIGH BELT is greatly in favour just now. It appears on fully half the street gowns and costumes in one form or another, as well as on many of the indoor and afternoon frocks. Now it is this pointed belt which, more than anything else, gives their character to the winter frocks. An old dress may be made to look quite smart and up to date by its addition. Fortunately, it is one of those important accessories which may be successfully manufactured at home. A soft pliable material, such as taffetas, soupline, or Liberty satin, should be chosen for this purpose. The belt must be cut and fitted to the figure with as much care as a tight-fitting bodice. But, to be a complete success, it must also be accurately boned, not only at the back and front seams, but all round, and with good firm whalebone, so that it will keep its shape and clearly define the waist.