AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXXI, Issue VI, 8 August 1903, Page 426

AS SEEN THROUGH WOMAN’S EYES.

How to Improve the Complexion. It is probably over her complexion that the average woman worries most, though this is not as it should be. To possess beauty in every particular should be the aim of all. A woman should take care of her hair, her teeth, ’■er eves, her hands just as solicitously as she does her skin. Nor should she stop there. She shou'd regard herself as a traitor to her own interests should she neglect the very obvious attractions she ought to cultivate under such headings as beauty of expression, with which is inseparably bound up beauty of mind, and she should remember that the most perfect facial loveliness lacks its supreme value if beauty, if figure, pose, and movement are absent, or are deemed of second-rate worth. The object of this article will be to teach those who are desirous of improving themselves how they may do so. No a] plications that are poisonous will be menti me i. i o. any drugi t ■ be taken internally. Moreover, every single recipe will have received a doctor’s approval, so that absolute reliance may be placed in it. Firstly, however, it should be understood that in the quest for beauty it is utterly impossible for gallons of unguents, creams and lotions to improve the complexion, the hair, the teeth, or the figure unless the bodily health is in good condition. With emphasis emphatic is this assertion made. Yet what does the average woman who can afford to pay gold do when her skin looks blotchy or unduly pale? She buys the latest expensive cream and the newest washes, “warranted to make the skin as satin-like as a baby’s,” instead of going first of all to her doctor and getting him. or her, to prescribe for her health. Of a surety the woman who wants to be beautiful and to keep beautiful —and every woman can in some degree be beautiful, never doubt or forget that—m;ust firstly and foremostly be put in a proper state of health in order that she may benefit by the treatment she may elect to receive at the hands of a beauty specialist, or in the seclusion of her own boudoir with the help here given. And to these remarks let this be added: That it is upon physiological regularity that those who wish to have pretty complexions should concentrate their attention. Many people regard a state of chronic constipation as one that eannot be remedied, and yet fail to connect such a condition with the bad complexions that so mill eh worry them. Yet the blemished skin must and will exist if the daily functions of the body are not maintained in thoroughly efficient working order.

And now let another common-sense word be said. The beauty specialists who earn such good incomes at their callings admit that they make their biggest profits on their washes, creams and lotions, and they also admit that the reason their profits are so large is this, that their customers are everlastingly Hying from one cream to. another and one lotion to another, using only a third or a sixth portion of a halfguinea bottleful of stuff before they abandon it for some more attractivesounding substitute. The fact of the matter is this, that though the worfd is very old, women are still very credulous, and they like to believe deep down in their hearts that magic has something to do with the production of good looks. It is the antique story of May Day and May dew that attracts them; as if a walk every summer's morning in the pure fresh air were not nruch more provocative of a face of lilies and roses than just one expedition on one specially sweet morning.

Take it for truth—for it is unadulterated fact—that in the cutivation of

comeliness it is not spasmodic effort that brings about a good result, but a persistent and zealously pursued system of treatment. Find out first of all, having brought your body into a healthy state, what type of facial treatment suits you, and pursue that treatment, not every day for one week and then never again for a month, but each 24 hours, and, if possible, at the same time or times, so that the skin shill recognise the plan of routine and answer to it. It is extraordinary, perhaps, that the human body should be so like a piece < f m -clian’.s'n, and should flourish so much under routine. But it does. Now to turn directly to the subject of tl-.e complexion. Let us generalise upon what all w >men should avoid if they desire to retain to old age the tints of youth, not in ail their vivid glow, but as a very distinct echo of it. t hey should avoid stuffy rooms. Night and day a window or windows should be left open in their living and sleeping apartments. If a fire be roaring in the winter, still there should be fresh air coming in to the room somewhere! perhaps by means of one of the clever ventilators now fixed into the win-

dow pane, perhaps by means of the window being opened an inch or two at the top and bottom. Even if a cold or sore throat is being endured, fresh air is a benefit, not a detriment. Does not the modern doctor give his consumptive patient an abundance of fresn air; does he not in all weather make her live outside? Even so does the beauty, producer pin her faith to air, air, air, and plenty of it. Secondly, there must be no excesses in eating and drinking. The woman who loves her food better than she loves her looks may possibly exist. Well, then, for her there is a choice to be made. Shall she gratify her appetite or shall she restrain it and keep her beauty? Even of greater importance is the question of drinking. I who write have been about a very great deal among all sorts and conditions of femininity, and have observed them and their habits closely, and I am convinced that the use of beer, wine and spirits is absolutely antagonistic to the preservation of loveliness and youthfulness, both mental and physical. I should like to go so far as to say that complete abstention from all three kinds of liquor should be faced to secure beautv and

to keep it, and particularly as regards its preservation. But since there are some systems that require stimulants and because it is never advisable to lay down hard-and-fast rules in giving advice of this kind, I will modify that pronouncement and substitute for it this counsel, that only under doctor’s orders should either beverage be taken.

As for the case of those who are the victims of a craving for alcohol and who abandon themselves to the passion, does not their own appearance preach to the observant the most solemn sermon there can be against excess? There are some devotees of the milk-and-rose complexion who never drink either tea or coffee because of the nerve-racking and bilious tendencies of those beverages. They believe in pure water or milk, and are loud in their praises of hot water and hot milk sipped instead of gulped, and not taken with food. This may be wisdom. But since there is no desire on ■iny part to pose as a crank, 1 will merely comment upon such a course of procedure in these terms. Every womhn should be a. law unto herself. She should studiously and earnestly endeavour to find out what best enhances her beauty in the way of diet, and drink and adhere to it, modifying her line of treatment from time to time as she finds the necessity arise.

Thirdly, not because it is an inferior proviso, but in order to conclude with an intensely momentous announcement, 1 am of opinion that beauty would he prevalent everywhere and in every station of life, and that it would last to old age, if complete and intentional cleanliness were observed. Let no one hold up hands of horror at this assertion. The habit that the typical Englishwoman cherishes of washing often and washing thoroughly is to her credit. Her morning tub and her bedtime ablutions are part and parcel of her very existence. She is renowned the world over for her craze for water, and perhaps her beautiful complexion, for which she is alm renowned, is the result of this love for splashing. But all the same, she may carry her praiseworthy pursuits further . with advantage. Water is not the only cleanser; the skin demands more attention than a douche to render it perfectly free from grime. Then there is such a thing as careful attention paid to attire. What woman, for instance, connects the blackheads with which her face is spotted with her black veil, that veil that has worn so well, far too well indeed, and that every time it presses against her face impregnates it with the dust it has collected from the atmosphere plus the moisture of her skin and breath? Intentional and - intelligent cleanliness is just as necessary to beauty as good health is. When once that truth has been grasped the seeker after beauty has gone a long way towards finding it.

Her Rival.

I never can tell and I never could see What he saw in you—not from the first. That you should have come here —a rival to me. Is really of all things the worst. - . <1 I have eyes soft and blue as the midsummer skies; 1 have lips of carmine, ripe and mellow; While you are an ugly and strange little thing, Most decidedly dingy and yellow. Yet's it’s you who each evening hang on his lips. And it’s you that he gently caresses, While he greets me with just a goodnatured old hug And a good-natured pat on my tresses. Yet I would not'exchange our two places in life (Though the tears from my lashes I wipe), For I am his honoured and dearly loved wife — And you are his old briar pipe.

The Cake-Walk

The cake-walk dance has been highly popular in England of late, and promises to be even more fashionable next winter. Classes asre being held in London, and the best teachers are commanding substantial incomes.

The first thing to learn is how to bear yourself. Shoulders well back. Never sacrifice grace for effect. When you begin, don’t forget to curve your back. Be elastic at all costs. Bend from the knees, not from the hips. Turn the toes out well. Swing your shoulders so that you call the muscles into play. Dance all over, in fact. Let the body swing easily. Be jaunty. Wear a happy holiday face. Let the man charm his partner with the deferential grace of his “walking round her,” and the woman hers with her fun and coquetry. The original cake-walkers in the Southern States (U.S.A.) always danced in the light of the moon when work was done. Their dancing was the expression of joy, and that expression is still the most appropriate one in cakewalk dancers. In the dance you follow the music and improvise. Pretty gestures, poses and evolutions come to you surprisingly. Do not jump or bound. Glide slowly, but let your step be light and elastic. As to the frock worn by the ardent cake-walk dancer, it may be long or short, but the short, if not so graceful, is easier to manage. Cakewalking is a matter of temperament. To succeed perfectly, your temperament must be a happy one. Remember that it is a gala dance.

Society Business Women.

By “A Society Butterfly,” in “M.A.B.'

England has been called a nation of shopkeepers, and not without reason, as a keen business instinct exists in both men and women, and in every class and every set in Society. Women of the smart world show a special aptitude for commercial enterprise, and at the present time several members of the bestknown families are immersed in successful trade speculations. 1887 saw the commencement of this business era. The late Lady Granville Gordon acted the

part of a praiseworthy pioneer. Her hat shop in Para-street, Grosvenor Square, proved as profitable an investment as did Mrs Jack Cumming’s more recent dressmaking experiment in Doverstreet, Piccadilly.

Every year sees new recruits to the strong army of Society traders. Some time ago the Duchess of Abercorn starred a creamery, near Baronscourt, th„t supplies customers in Belfast with the best and freshest of Irish dairy produce; and Lady Essex is partly responsible for a flourishing laundry in the neighbourhood of London. Eady Rachel Byng, daughter of Lord Strafford, has a millinery establishment not far from blew Bond-street. The Hon. Mrs Turuour — the name spelt like that of Lord Winterton’s family—keeps a dressmaker’s shop in the same locality; and Mrs ’’Bertie” Dormer, cousin to Lord Dormer, has recently started as a milliner and dressmaker under the pseudonym of “Olivette.”

Mrs Wellesley, a relation by mar.iage of the Duke of Wellington, once owned a flower-shop in Lower Grosvenor Place, and now Mrs Patrick Heron-Maxwell—-another smart woman —runs a florist’s business in Victoria-street. The servant question appeals to many of us; Miss Edith Kerr keeps a registry for servants in Lower Belgrave-street, Eaton Square. This lady is one of the unmarried daughters of the late Lord Frederick Kerr; and she is, of course, related to the- present Lord Lothian. Manicure is a modern necessity, and several smart women have adopted this delicate business. The Hon. Mrs Granville Knox has started as a manicurist in a shop not far from Piccadilly. She is a daughter of Harriet Lady Clifden, a cousin of the Marquise d’Hautepoule, and is married to Mr Granville Knox, a relation of Lord Ranfurly. She is a pretty, fascinating woman, and rejoices in the pet name of

“Ducky.” which, by the way. she shares with the Grand Duchess of Hesse.

Several tea-shops are kept by Society women, notably one in Bond-street, which belongs to Mrs Robertson, wife of an Army officer. The house is arranged with great taste, has a deep, ivy covered verandah, and the neat-handed waitresses dress in violet frocks, covered with white muslin aprons and long oversleeves. Lady Warwick and Lady Duncannon have both been shopkeepers in and near Bond-street; anti although their names are now less prominently before the public, yet they remain equally interested in their favourite indus-tries—English-made lingerie and Irish hand-embroideries.

Some Society women prefer not to coquette with commerce, and instead turn their attention to a serious professional career. The Hon. Mis Synge, sister to Lord Abingcr, has become a fully qualified physician, and practises at Bloemfontein, in South Africa, where she holds the post of Medical Officer to the Government Normal Hospital. The South African War left us a legacy of Society nurses; but years ago. Lady Hermione Blackwood, and—before her marriage—Lady Griselda

Cheepe. both worked ns nurses ii the London hospitals. Music claims many sriffod women. Thfj Hon. Mrs Julian Clifford, sister to Lord Henniker, is now a professional concert-singer; and Mme. Lilian Eldee, a pretty and successful vocalist, appears in Society as Mrs ‘ Bill’’ Duncombe, whose husband is a nephew of Lord Feversham.

The Decline of Kissing.

For a long time objections have been urged against kissing- it was said to be unhygienic and a fruitful source of infection. These objections have had effect, and there is a distinct decline

of the practice, except amongst engaged couples. Women, certainly, rarely salute each other in this way, ami if they d<», amongst the upper circles, it becomes no more than a frosty peck on the cheek or forehead. In America, where the practice is also on the decline, kissing has been raised to a tine art. Each grade of culture in the States has its own peculiar fashion of saluting in this way. In some of the colleges for women, moreover, there is a special lady professor who lectures on the “kiss dangerous” and the “kiss hygienic,” known to the initiated as the ‘‘close blow.” The girls of the different colleges. too, have special ways of kissing.

A “ship on fire” Is a fearful thing. All helpless on the deep. No vessel near her help to bring. Whilst tlames about her leap; A rough or cold is bad enough. Though we can help procure. And never fail to drive them off With— WOODS’ GREAT PEPPERMINT CURE.

The Wife a Schoolmaster Wants.

Many a married woman feels a bit left out of her husband’s life. She realises his strenuous efforts and hard work, and is conscious that she spends a lot and earns nothing. It’s not only that—she longs for the spirit of camaraderie which, working together. as well as playing together, would produce. Nay, more! Many a woman yearns for “far resonant” action. She knows to the full the supreme sacredness of motherhood and home, but she wants to have more interests in life than babies and carpets. I can picture to myself no life where a woman of energy and capability could find fuller outlet for her powers than as the wife of a schoolmaster. There is no profession in the world where a man is so dependent on the help of his wife for real failure or success. I speak, of course, especially of the public schools, or the preparatory schools for them. You start with one overwhelming advantage. Your life will be passed among gentlefolks. The other masters who will form a large part of the society in which you move will be nearly all. if not all. university men. and. consequently, though occasionally you will find your social life has a tendency to get "groovey.” yet you will be saved from the terrible awakenings of a third-rate London suburb. And. first of all. the boys. You must be genuinely fond of boys, and really interested in the things that interest them. If you “put it on,” they’ll find you out. It seems a funny thing to say, but I say it in all seriousness, “if you are going to really help your husband, you must thoroughly grasp the laws of cricket and football, and you must know the main difference between Rugby and Association football.” For good or for evil, athletics loom very large in the minds of the modern schoolboy, and if you don’t knowenough about it to talk to him intelligently he’ll put you down as incompetent. and all your desires to help and influence him will be largely wasted; while, if only you can get the grip of things athletic, why, “all these other things shall be added unto you.” So, shortly, as to the boys. Another group of people you have to face is the masters. Now, as you value your happiness, have nothing to do with the masters as schoolmasters. Some well-mean-ing but ill-advised ladies endeavour to supplement or undermine the authority of masters with the boys, and to interfere with the masters among themselves. Whether you are the wife of a headmaster. a house master, or a junior master, leave the internal working of the school to the masters —it’s men work, and not yours. You’ve got to represent the home life to the boys: if you tamper with masters’ authority, the boys will hate your interference, they'll despise the master who lets you interfere, and the masters will dislike vou.

Parents, as a class, are often rather an occasion of sorrow to the schoolmaster clan. They are, of course, a necessary evil; but the usual feeling amongst schoolmasters is that it’s very nice to know them, it’s nice to get them down to the school to take an interest in their

boys, but that “a little bit of parent goes a very long way.” Suppose you’ve fifty boys in your house. Each of those fifty is the focus of the hopes of a certain mother. She has a tendency to believe you have as much time to devote to thinking of "dear Tom" as she has. Of course, you haven’t—you have fifty "dear Toms” to watch over. Now, don’t let that worry you. Grasp the principle that each Tom is “dear and only Tom,” and then the letters and telegrams which will rain on you if “Tom” catches cold won’t drive you silly; but you’ll answer them quite calmly, and with a smile, remembering that “Tom” is "dear Tom.” I’ve left your husband to the last. Baek him up through thick and thin. He has a very responsible position, and he is always having to make up his mind on important decisions. Most men do their business decisions apart from their wives—away from home. Not so with you. you are at the fountain-head. Then let him talk matters over with you. discuss them wisely, differ if you will: but once the decision is formed, cling to it loyally for his sake. It means much to a man—more to a schoolmaster. Expect him to be “jumpy” at times. Every man is who teaches. You'll find it worst about the fourth week before the end of each term —it’s quite unavoidable. Smile at it; it’s not permanent. And don't forget there is such a thing as offensive sympathy when a man is “jumpy.” Then it is that he says, “Why did I marry?” and becomes ten time worse because he’s let himself, even in thought, ask the question. But thes? drawbacks are mere nothings to the joy of success that will come to you. He will not come home, as most men do. to talk to you about his work: but you will discuss “our” work, “our school, "our” growing numbers. You will be the one to “mother” the boys, to see the parents, to supervise all the domestic arrangements of a school, and they are no sinecure. If you desire scope for organisation, you will have it to the full, and flowing over; you’ve got a career, and at the same time you have a husband bound up with your career. That is the ideal combination for which woman unconsciously dreams!

The Virtues of Eau de Cologne.

Cologne water —not triple extract —if it be of the best make, is one of the most purifying as well as healthy things that one can use. It has an exhilarating and stimulating effect on the brain and nerve centres, and quickly changes the foetid atmosphere of overheated rooms. It is invaluable in sickness. and in point of reviving invalids there is absolutely nothing which excels it. travellers and cyclists should never be without eau de cologne. After walking, travelling, or cycling on a dusty day a few drops in the washing water will refresh one wonderfully. A shiny or greasy skin can be benefited by dabbing with a sponge dipped in eau de cologne instead of using much soap and water. Being such a skin astringent, it is excellent for preventing acne.

The Chessboard. BY ROBERT LORD LYTTON (OWEN MEREDITH). My little love, do you remember, Ere we were grown so sadly wise, Those evenings in the bleak December. < uitallied warm from the snowy weather, When you auc I played chess together, < heckw»ted by each other’s eyes? Ah, still I see your soft white hand Hovering warm o’er Queen and Knight! Brave Pawns in valiant battle stand; The double Castles guard the wings; The Bishop, bent on distant things. Moves, sidling through the fight. Our fingers touch; our glances meet. And falter; falls your golden hair Against my cheek; your bosom sweet is heaving. Down the field, your Queen Rides slowly her soldiery all between, a And checks me unaware. Ab me’, rhe battle’s done. Dispersed is all its chivalry. Full many a move since then, have we Mid life’s perplexing chequers made, And many a game with fortune played— What is it we have won? This, this at least —if this alone— That never, never, never more, As in those old still nights of yore (Ere we were grown so sadly wise), Can you and I shut out the skies. Shut out the world, and wintry weather. And, eyes exchanging warmth with eyes. Flay chess, as then we played, together!

How to Make Old Ribbons New.

Can you wash ribbons? Ask yourself this question, then ask your friends. You will be surprised to find how many will answer, “No.” I have tried once or twice and failed. They fade or wrinkle, so that they look worse than before they were washed. Do tell me how it is done, for I have any amount of old ribbons, good ones, but too badly soiled to be used again.” Have you not old ribbons, too? -jid would you not like tc know hov. tney

can be made new? 11 you are one of the many girls who have to economise you will value the information highly; and even if you are one of the fortunate ones who can buy new ribbons whenever the old ones are soiled, you. too,

can find many other uses for your ribbon money.

To begin with, the ribbons to be washed must be of good quality. Cheap ribbons fade even before they are washed, but good ribtions can be washed many times and still look fresh and new. With good, pure soap prepare a basinful (a hand bowl will be large enough) of warm suds, and place in it all the ribbons of one colour. When they have sciaked for fifteen minutes remove and spread them piece by piece flat on a smooth surface. Then with a soft brush lan old nail brush wiU do) rub until all the streaks and spots disappear. A little cooking soda will help to remove the obstinate stains. Rinse out the soap suds in clear, warm water. Do not wring the ribbons as you would handkerchiefs, but fold them smoothly and press them between the hands until you get out as much of the water as possible. If you desire the ribbons to be as stiff as when new, put a few drops of vinegar in the rinsing water.

Have the ironing board ready, spread the ribbons between two towels and press with a moderately hot iron until thoroughly dry.

This method will be found excellent with satin, taffeta, peau de soie, grosgrain. Liberty satin, miroir velvet, and other ribbons —except silk velvet. Silk velvet ribbons should be merely damped —not soaked—and run quickly back and forth over the faee of a hot iron (silk side next the iron) until dry. With a clothes brush brush up the face of the ribbon gently but thoroughly, and the old velvet ribbon will be restored to its original condition. Creased silk ribbons may b“ restored by being laid evenly on a board and dampened with a very elean sponge. Then roll them smoothly and tightly on a ribbon block of greater width than the ribbon, and let them remain until drv.

Ribbons and other silks should be put away for preservation in brown paper. The chloride of lime used in manufacturing white paper frequently produces discolouration. White satin, should be pinned in blue paper, with brown paper outside, sewed together at the edges.

Under Turkish Rule.

A remarkably interesting book. "The Diary of a Turk,” has lately been published by Messrs. Black. It is a volume dealing with social, political, aud religious matters in Turkey, and containing a considerable amount of information on subjects frequently misunderstood in this country. The author is H. Halid Effendi, MA., M.R.A.S., who. after having retired from the service of the Sultan’s Government on accour of his liberal views, settled in Eng.._id. Mr H. Halid is now teacher of Turkish to Student-Interpreters (for the Levant) in the University of Cambridge. Many of the best passages in his book relate to the position of women in the author’s native land. Here is the reason why Turkish women are not taught to write: — “Formerly girls in Turkey were not allowed to" learn the mystery of cali graphy. We have had some excellent poetesses in days gone by, but none of them could write —they dictated their inspirations. The common explanation <jiven of this traditional prohibition for it is a custom rather than a rule—was that if girls once learned writing thev might have indulged in talismanit pastimes, and eventually become witches As a matter of fact, the real reason was quite different. There was a fear, pel - haps not ill-founded, that having onee learned to write, they might hasten to make use of the accomplishment by composing love-letters to young men. with whom they could not otherwise communicate, for the strict seclusion of females cut off all intercourse between voung people of opposite sexes almost as soon as they have ceased to be infants. This absurd, in fact harmful, prohibition lias of late, and for some time past, been losing its force. But it was still strictly observed in ray mother’s younger davs, and so she was not allowed to learn to write. My mother passes a most retired life in her town and summer houses. In town there is a market place situated a few minutes’ distance from our house, which she has never seen in her whole life. She went, however. to Mecca on a pilgrimage some five vears ago.” When only 14 years old the author was mixed up in a bride-litting escapade, and in consequence was sent to live with an uncle. This is his description of his uncle and his home: “Although thoroughly honest, sober, and pious in the extreme, he had fallen into some of the old failings and habits of Constantinople officialdom, such as Poly gamv. When I went to his house he had three wives, all living together with their numerous children and many female attendants, in his harem —that is to say. in the ladies’ section of his house. His wives were all Circassians. He bought, emancipated, and married them

at different times, but unlike some other polygamists, he kept them in one house. It was as wonderful as uncommon to ~ee how they all obeyed him implicitly, and though a man of the sternest disposition. he treated them all kindly, and with perfect fairness. They may have hated one another at heart, but etiquette and a strict ceremony of precedence were always observed by them. The children of the different wives were more markedly jealous of each other than were their mothers. Before marrying these three Circassian wives my uncle had been married to a lady in whose lifetime he eould not take advantage of the existence of the system of polygamy, because she was the daughter of a familv of social distinction.”

Costly Presents.

There were some magnificent presents at the recent wedding of Lady Mary Grosvenor and Lord Crichton. One table in the centre was set apart for the royal gifts, says a London paper, referring to a “view” of the gifts. The Prince and Princess of Wales sent a set of four silver stands, and another gift from the Princess alone is a lovely black ostrich feather fan, ‘Tor dear Molly, with best wishes from Victoria Mary, 1900.” Princess Christian sent a silver box. and the Duke of Connaught a pale blue enamel cigarette ease. Arrong the jewellery is a diamond and «rpphire pendant from the Duke an 1 Duchess of Westminster, a massive ornament. with six pendant sapphire lockets attached. Lord Erne has given a necklace of diamond leaves alternating with single diamond flowers. Katharine Duehess of Westminster’s presents include a diamond and ruby pendant with a single ruby drop of great size, and the Duke and Duchess of Sutherland have sent a long coiled rope of send pearls, with pearl and diamond tassels. A joint gift of five graduated stars comes from the Duke and Duchess of Teck and Lord and Lady Ormonde, among others, while Lady Erne has given her future daughter-in-law a magnificent bracelet of diamonds and dark blue enamel. One of the most remarkable gifts is from Col one.' Rhodes, a burst shell from Ladvsmith. cleverly constructed to form an inkstand, mounted in silver. Among th" givers of beautiful fans are Lady Gerard. Lord Enniskillen, and Mrs. Algernon Grosvenor, while. Lady Victoria D->wn:iy and Sir Robert. Cunliffe are among the many who have sent books. Sapphires are prominent among the wedding gifts. Lady Mary Grosvenor’s own present to Lord Crichton is a sapphire and diamond pin.

Hotne-made Sauces

GARIBALDI SAUCE. Finely chop 41b of sour apples, having removed cores, with 41b of ripe tomatoes, some amount of onions, and three green peppers, and add 41b each of salt, brown sugar, and fib of grated ginger. Pour over one quart of vinegar and stir until mixed. Stand for four days, then boil for half an hour, strain, reheat. pour into smaH bottles and seal. CHUTNEY SAUCE. Chop together very fine six green sour apples, two green peppers, two onions, one cupful of seeded raisins, one tablespoonful of mustard seeds, one tabl"spoonful of salt, and one cupful of brown sugar: simmer all together half an hour, pour into small bottles and seal. BORDEAUX SAUCE. Chop separately large head of cabbage. dozen green tomatos. two onions and six green peppers. Sprinkle each with salt, using a pound. Let it stand overnight, and next morning squeeze dry and mix. Scald a quart of vinegar with whole crushed cloves, allspice, and mustard seeds, using a tablespoonful of each. Pour the hot vinegar over the chopped mixture, and set aside until next day: repeat process for three successive days, then bottle and seal while hot. The tomatoes mav be omitted. SPICED GRAPES. Wash and steam 31b of grapes; place in a kettle and mash, so as to allow the juice to flow. Cook gently until soft and rub through a fine sieve. Return to the cleaned kettle, add half a pint of vinegar, a pound of brown sugar, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, and half a tablespoonful each of mace and cloves. Simmer gently half an hour, stirring frequently. bottle and seal while hot. This is good with any meat. Woman and Music. In the “Gentleman’s Magazine” there is a very interesting article contributed by Mr J. Cuthbert Haddon entitled “Woman ajnd Music.” Mr Haddon regrets that as yet their sex has not pro-

duced a truly great composer; but this he considers largely due to the fact that women have not been, and are even yet not allowed to devote the time to the study of music that is indispensable. He says:—“As has been truly remarked, it needs but a glance at the lives of the great composers to show us that the high gift of original creation has ever had to be fostered by active care and congenial surroundings—that, moreover, it exacts for its full fruition a degree of detachment from the common concerns of life which would be sure to overwhelm the solicitous soul of many a woman with the obloquy it would bring upon her. And it is just here that a woman, either of her own choice or of necessity, has failed to secure the advantages and conditions necessary to her development as an artist.” Mr Haddon gives as an example the case of Mendelssohn’s sis ter. Fanny, who in her early years of fered the greater musical promise. But because she was a girl what happened? “Precisely what has always happened, and what, under similar circumstances, would probably happen still, tn spite of the boasted emancipation of the sex: the training of each gradually diverged —stopped short, in fact, with the girl, while the boy was encouraged and assisted by every available means. The girl was simply taught, as girls are taught now. to dally with the keys of an instrument; the boy was prepared for an exacting art in an exacting manner." Even now the very faet that a woman is a woman is made the pretext for criticising her work differently to that of a man. “‘For a woman.' says the critic, ‘the composition is remarkably good.’ •lust as if art were a matter of sex!”