Society’s Jewels.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXIX, Issue XV, 11 October 1902, Page 954

Society’s Jewels.

By “A SOCIETY BUTTERFLY.” THE REIGN OF THE TIARA. Riches can be displayed in many ways—by houses, servants, and furniture: by carriages, horses, yachts and opera boxes; but the riches of

London are at this moment represented most effectually by the jewels of its women. We will not allude to the Regalia, nor to the many almost priceless gems possessed by Queen Alexandra and the Princesses of the Royal House, but will deal only with the splendid jewels owned by society women of rank and wealth. Tiaras —or, rather, round crowns of diamonds—are the rule and not the ex-

ception. In 1902 every budding bride with an income of a thousand a year considers a tiara a necessity of existence. In olden days they were worn only by Royalty, duchesses and ambassadresses. The Duchess of Sutherland has a historic crown of diamonds, which once belonged to the beautiful and stately Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland; the Duchess of Portland’s new

tiara is wonderftil, with, in front, a big stone, known as the Portland diamond; the Duchess of Devonshire has a splendid crown, and so has the Duchess of Marlborough. Lady Carnarvon, Lady Spencer, Lady Tweedmouth, and Mrs Bradley Martin also possess notable tiaras. Pearls are now far more precious than diamonds. During the last thirty years they are said to have in-

creased in value one thousand per cent., and may women wear their treasures day and night, hiding them under their high gown during the day, as pearls are said to keep their colour better when worn next to the skin. The Duchess of Marlborough's pearls have supplied much "copy”; suffice it to say that many of them are worth more than £ 1000 apiece, and that they once belonged to Marie Antoinette. Victoria Lady Yarborough has several rows of pearls the size of walnuts, which must be of immense value: Lady de Grey has one row of pearls said to be worth £25,000; Lady Rothschild has two rows of huge, perfectly shaped pearls, and Mrs "Solly” Joel has a string of pearls valued at £30.000, which belonged to the late Princess Mary, Duchess of Teck. Black pearls are an exotic jewel, with a price in pro-

portion. Emeralds are the jewels par excellence of the present season. Lady Aberdeen has a tiara with five emeralds, said to be the largest in the world; Lady Sherborne possesses wonderful emeralds, once the property of the late Princess Mary of Teck; Lady Londeafoorougfh, Lady Carnarvon, Lady Rosse and Lady Carew possess splendid emeralds, as do Mrs Ronald Greville and Mrs Arthur Paget. Lady Carew’s finest emerald was presented to her by the Shah of Persia. The ruby is a precious jewel, which increases in value. Lady Wimborne’s are splendid, and she owns the famous Hope ruby. Lady Dudley’s rubies are very- fine; and Mrs Bradley Martin’s are of sensational value.

Georgina Lady Dudley has a marvellous parure of sapphires and diamonds. and Mrs D’Arcy possesses a notable necklace of diamonds, and huge, square sapphires. Turquoises are a less valuable, but very beautiful stone. Princess Henry of Pless, Lady Wicklow and Lady Hothfield have fine sets of turquoises. Adeline, Duchess of Bedford, has an ornament of pansies, the petals formed of large, single amethysts, with stalks and centres of diamonds. The Duchess of Buccleuch possesses a wonderful belt of diamonds. The Duchess of Newcastle has a true-lover’s knot in fine diamonds. Mrs Arthur Wilson wears a wonderful diamond feather, and Mrs George Keppel has a unique pendant — square emerald — with, hanging from it, a pear-shaped diamond. said to be the second largest in the world.—"M.A.P.”

Titles That May be Bought. Tt is not necessary for a man of means to lack a handle to his name, for provided he is prepared to pay the price asked, he can have the choice of a score of titles which are in the market. There is only one country in which the sale of titles is legal at all times, and this is San Marino. If a wealthy man wishes to dub himself a count, he has only to reside in the State for a few weeks and then apply to the authorities for the necessary papers. There is no fixed price for any title, as the applicant is called upon to pay whatever the authorities think he can atl'ord, the entire proceeds going towards the maintenance of the national foundling hospital. San Marino vends all sorts of titles from a dukedom downwards, but it is doubtful if they are of much account outside the State.

Occasionally the finances of Spain. Italy and Portugal want replenishing, and at such times these nations announce that they have a certain number of titles for sale. This is the opportunity to become a duke, which will cost £4OOO in either country, the title of marquis being valued at £3OOO, and that of count at £2OOO. The number of titles sold seldom exceeds a dozen at a time, but the sum realised is not to foe ignored. In addition. there is a convent in Portugal to which a field is attached, and the owner of the ground is at liberty to style himself a count for all time, and his children have a similar privilege. In 1900 the ground changed hands three times, so that three families gained perpetual titles by the transactions. To become a Persian Chevalier and a member of the Sun of Nasr Eddin an expenditure of only £2O is necessary; while another cheap order is that of the Star of Monaco, which anyone may wear if he pays the initiation fee of £35. To take prominence in Turkish society a man should be a holder of the Osmanje (first class), which will cost him £S00; second and third class rank of the same order being retailed at £ 500 and £3OO respectively. Since France became a republic the sale of titles has been prohibited, but anyone may become a marquis or a duke if he goes the right way to work. Impecunious holders of such titles often .advertise ini the State papers that they are prepared to adopt a young man in consideration of a e rtain sum. The youth thus favoured immediately assumes the same title as his foster-parent and is at liberty to hand it down for unlimited generations. In Spain, however humble a man may be, if he marries a countess or woman of rank, he takes her title for all time, and his children after him.

British titles, though not to be bought, prove somewhat expensive when they are awarded. The Royal letters patent of a duke w’ll cost him £350. those of an earl £250, a baronet £lOO. and a knight £3O. In the matter of orders, a man upon being invested with the Order of St. Patrick is required to pay £3OO into the exchequer, and a Knight of the Garter must be prepared to lose a still larger sum by the mstinction. In Germany the fees are far heavier; and it is on record that Prince Bismarck refused to pay the £2500 necessary to become Duke of Lauenberg, though the Emperor William I. subsequently paid this sum for him.

Needlecraft. Pretty ideas for wedding presents whieh are not too expensive for the pockets of the bride’s girl friends are always in great request. One yard and a half of white satin, and threequarters of a yard of Roman satin makes a beautiful sofa cushion. The bride’s monogram is embroidered in silver, and a spray of orange blossom is worked in a trailing design in the opposite corner, in ribbon embroidery. A silver cord and tassels of white and silver finishes the edges. A divan, or couch, piled with cush ions, seems to be accepted as the sine qua non of every den, snuggery or living room; but in no part of the house-furnishing is correct taste more often offended than in this particular arrangement. We copy recklessly the Oriental effects, juggling them together in such a literal “riot” of colours that jar and discord follow. If many cushions are wanted, and Eastern stuffs are liked as coverings, they should be carefully selected in relation to each other, and to the cover. If the wood of the couch or sofa is in evidence, that, too, should be considered. Rieh Persian effects are out of harmony on a white enamel settee, or couch, as are the dainty cushions of white silk, or fine embroidered linen against a massive mahogany antique, covered in some heavy dark stuff. What is appropriate. too, in the boys’ den or smoking-room, is quite unsuitable in the dignified library or drawingroom. Yet cushions, like bric-a-brac, are constantly being bought, and made in the most irrelevant fashion —for their individual effect alone—and with never a thought of what their environment will be.

Losing Their Hair. Women in Japan, it is said, are in a state jf panic owing to an epidemic which causes baldness and which especially attacks women. Reports say that in Osaka the epidemic is most prevalent, and in some cases after having the hair elaborately dressed, it has all come out in the comb some two or three days later. The police have taken the matter in hand, and stringent regulations have been laid down for barbers as to the disinfecting of their different implements. In the meanwhile the apprehensive beauties of Japan are absorbed in the effort to “keen their hair on.”

“ Hake-Up.” What a pity it is that women nowadays make tin to the extent they do! What xs the use? For surely the pretty woman does not need "makeup," and the plain one only draws attention to Nature's harsh dealings by Having recourse to it. And now few made-up women one sees who are anything but ill-painted! indeed, in this matter, the old proverb, "Practice makes perfect," gets constant contradiction, for it is noticeable that the longer a face has been "oeautilied,'’ the less well it is none, a want of care in dealing with the delicacies o< the art causing a general over-accentuation culminating in a tout ensemble, which is to the beholder nothing short of revolting. Before things had reached such a piten . a. present, when quite young girls have recourse to the rouge-pot, it was only those who knew that their good looks were on the wane who called in such spurious aids. The chief effect of this indiscriminate touehing-up is that “Most worn- «. n are not so young as they are painted"—or one doubts it of them, which conies to the same thing; for seeing the danger signals so glaringly displayed, one jumps to the conclusion that charms which require so much emphasis must of a surety be almost lost. Why not remember that nobody but yourselves is deceived, by your fraudulent endeavours? In these days of sham, the practice of honesty in appearance has become so rare as to give to it almost a new kind of attractiveness.