LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XXI, Issue VIII, 20 August 1898, Page 253

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

I OW and again the smart woman gets an invitation to attend a wedding, , and the question at once arises, ‘ What am I to wear?’ At a recent pretty wedding one of the ladies of the bouse wore a gown that was very distinguished. It was of black, with sleeves of cerise satin antique, touches of cerise lining the little turnover collar. The whole of the gown was built

of pleated black crepe panels alternating with black tulle ones, across which were draped festoons of jet in ropes and fringes. The girdle was of black velvet, with a large jet and steel buckle behind. The whole toilette sparkled with light. Two white gowns on two of the guests were extremely smart. One of white, cloth, covered with beautiful applications of cream guipure in scattered floral motifs about the skirt and pouch bodice, had a hem, wrist and throat bands, and an inner vest of chinchilla, silver buttons and a silver belt touching up the gown charmingly. The collar was of chinchilla, as though a continuation of the vest, and there was also a.n outside collar, slightly flaring, of the lace-encrusted white cloth, with a wee glimpse of a coral satin lining. The. toque was of coral satin antique, spotted with white chenille dots gauged into a very distinguished looking pompom, white birds trimming each side, the little affair set rather forward on the hair. There were two tailor made gowns that seemed very elegant even among these more elaborate toilettes. One was of dark violet satin cloth, the |much bodice of a. light shade of mauve, braided with scrolls of black plush, outlined with gold threads.

The small round basque and tiny rounded epaulettes were of white cloth braided with gold and violet, and a strip of black satin formed the belt. Palest blue v el vet was the material of the collar, and there was a gauged toque. The other was a splendidlycut tailor gown of 'porcelain blue

faced cloth, trimmed very elaliorately with little straps ami tabs of the same cloth, piped with white suede, white mother of |>earl buttons fastening the little faits, ami pearl and gold buckling, the white suede Isdt. The eoat was cut in a round to disclose a small plastron of yellow velvet overlaid with

heavy cream guipure, of which the collar was also built, this last finished wit.li an edge of sable at the top. A large sable muff was slung about the neck of this gown on a chain of gold and pearls, and the little toque was of white suede and sable, with a twist of blue velvet and a sable brown tip. Over this went a carriage wrap of tan broadcloth, lined with white satin, in redingote sha|>e, trimmed with castor brown velvet revers edged very narrowly with sable to the feet. The pouched back was strapped at the waist-line with velvet and cut steel, ami the coat apparently fastened with little tails of velvet in milliner’s folds, and large ent steel buttons. Sketched for this survey of fashion up-to-date is a. modification of the Russian moujik, a coat combining green cloth and mouse-brown velvet, worn with a hat to match. The colours were a lovely combination of the softened hues so welcome after the crudities we have had to wear lately. Slashed at the sides, and with a basque of velvet, a collar also, and pointed vest, this made a completely fascinating wrap for the graceful girl who wore it. Her skirt was only very slightly trimmed with velvet, simulating a petticoat by slashings on the left side. Weddings are made very smart affairs nowadays.

Fichus are delightfully becoming, and the new' sets of chiffon or net fichus, and sash en suite, transform a. plain dress into a ball gown. The sash and fichu of white chiffon, covered with frills and ruchings, and showing a profusion of bebe ribbon as an edging for frills and rosettes is one of the dainties. Combinations of white and blue, cream and dahlia, or white and rose, are lovely in these sets. The sash is more usually worn at the back, where it spreads out, and forms a lovely finish. Long chains, set with pearls or other stones, are worn much looped on bodice. or blouse, and for evening wear are caught round the neck with a small jewelled brooch or pin, and again looped on the low corsage. Pearls, intersected with paste, or finished with paste clasps, are much in favour, and the short, old-fashioned necklet, with locket or pendant, is now worn again. Heart-shaped lockets of quite a large size, and in the corner with a single stone, are also worn, and tiny coins and lockets depend from the fob chain, or are connected with the watch in some way. They contain, of course, the tenderest tokens, such as a. photograph or a wisp of precious hair.

A GENERAL LOOK ROUND. Some of the pouched blouses, without basques and worn with the very narrow medallion and filigree belts, are most attractive, owing- to openings and insertions of the yoke and bib order; moreover, the new yet ever so old applique of black over colour, simulating panels, yokes, and ceintures, appears to be exceedingly popular. Many of the stripes and vests are really insertion laid on colour, but not a few semi-transparent textures are arranged in this form, and worn over coloured slips. Bright dahlia gradually merged into cerise and rose shades, and now a bright, pinky cerise ami vivid tangerine yellow are the most popular tints for millinery, or, discreetly veiled, to figure on the gown. One of the prettiest black bodices of the season, and naturally in blouse form, is made in brown with amber velvet, in greeji with tangerine faille, or in black with vivid cerise, and albeit it is so simple, the style is delightful. The favourite shades for dressy capotes are orange, mandarin yellow, empire green, ami Sevres blue in various tones, ornamented with feathers such as golden pheasants and ostrich plumes. Hats ami bonnets are marvellous to behold, so varied are their forms and colours, but then it must be remembered that there are faces of all ages to suit, and also they must be in keeping with the costume ami occasion. In London dress hats are no longer worn very large, the brims are flat, and sometimes raised with tufts, or half wreaths of flowers, or bouillonnes of velvet. For driving or visiting, dove-grey felt is much in vogue and looks well trimmed with sable ami a little head of sable on one side towards the back.

HELOISE.