LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XVI, Issue XV, 11 April 1896, Page 424

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

REAM and sapphire - blue with parrot-green sounds a peculiar combination, but arranged with taste and discretion, is one of the most perfect blends imaginable. In the toque that heads to day’s column these three colours are associated together so smartly and with so much distinction that this little masterpiece in millinery looks as if it hailed direct from the gay capital, where it cannot be denied the modistes certainly hold the monopoly of artistic colouring. Some first-rate sapphire velvet is crumpled over the foundation, the wire round the rim being bent in and out so as give a waved effect. Draped picturesquely about the crown is some very fine butter-tinted Alencon lace, while the border is edged with a trimming of blue and green chenille. The four plumes, fixed in such a manner that two stand up erect while the others curl over, are of the sapphire colour, a cream osprey adding a note of airy

lightness to this charming little toque. All through the winter light lace veils are to be worn ; and, following the same lines as those donned during the summer, they are to be knotted loosely over the hat.

Some of this autumn’s exclusive models for mantles, long coats, and pelisses are extremely handsome and picturesque ; but their style demands a distinguished personality to wear them with success, many of them being so shapeless in themselves, though looking most elegant on a tall graceful figure. In Fig. 2, we have sketched one of these handsome pelisses. It is composed of deep Prussian blue satin broche, lined with pale pink. It has

a yoke of French sable, into which it is pleated, falling in full rich folds straight to the feet ; the back folds being arranged «la Watteau. A collar of broche, edged with sable, lies over the yoke, and the sleeves, immense at the shoulders, are gathered in small at the wrist by a band of sable, then spread out again with edgings of the fur.

In the beautiful city of Asolo, Mr Barret Browning

started a school for lace making some little time back, in memory of his father. Mr Browning furnishes designs himself, both original and from some of the choicest old patterns, and the picturesque school at the foot of the Apennines bids fair to prove a great success. Some of the work is most lovely, and several of our Royal ladies have given orders for the delicate handwork, the Princess of Wales just recently having given a large one.

The Paisley pattern and colouring, which the French call Cachemire, is very popular at present. Besides velvets and satins of this Indian design, I have noted lightly woven pongees and delicate silk embroideries that have been inspired at the same artistically quaint source. Paisley materials deftly combined with black chiffon are most distingue and altogether effective. Here is an excellent example of this truly Parisian treatment illustrated in the shape of one of those smart capes, of not much weight, intended to be donned over a corsage, cosily and hence seasonably lined. On a black Duchesse foundation is a full accordeon pleating of black

chiffon, and round the shoulders is a frill of the same soft lisse. Over this is a rather deeper and fuller volant of delicate Paisley pongee silk, while round the throat the two materials are again blended to form one of the

new waved mantle collars. In front, this dainty * Rue de la Paix ’ confection is tied with long ends of broad

black satin ribbon, carrying out the glimpses of shimmering Duchesse one catches through the veiling of chiffon.

My last sketch represents one of the newest autumn styles—a coat costume made in mohair or cloth, or if liked, in satin. It looks very well in velvet, green cloth, satin, or bengaline silk, trimmed with tapering bands and belt in shaded silk and jet embroidery. Fluted epaulettes to correspond. High Princess front and short full sleeves in cream silk or crepon. For English tastes there should be close-fitting velvet sleeves to the wrist under the full sleeves. Heloise.

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