PICTURESQUE NEW ZEALAND.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIV, Issue III, 19 January 1895, Page 64

PICTURESQUE NEW ZEALAND.

IT will be welcome news to all lovers of New Zealand that the present Government has issued instrnctions to the various Commissioners of Crown Lands throughout the colony to reserve from sale in future all the choicest scenery, the sites of ancient pas and fortifications, and other places of public interest. If New Zealand is to be made in every way attractive to the tourist of the future, surely this is sound policy on the part of our rulers, to say nothing of the importance of conserving * local traditions ’ for the benefit of the future New Zealander. It is very gratifying also to find that some of our colonists begin to realise the necessity for this. A case in point is Sir Walter Buller’s beautiful country home in the South. This spot is

thus described in the last volume of the • Transactions of the New Zealand Institute* (Vol. XXVI, p. 572): —* Sixty miles from Wellington by the Manawatu Railway, and less than two miles to the westward of that line, there is one of the prettiest bits of natural scenery in New Zealand. This is Papaitonga, so called flom time immemorial, the name signifying “the beauty of the South.'* It is a lake of 125 acres in extent, with two exquisite islets covered with bright vegetation. On the north and north-east sides it is enclosed by a beautiful native forest, which presents a thick fringe of tree-ferns and underwood along the water’s edge; on the southern side there is open rising ground, with clearings in the forest beyond, showing the snow-covered ranges of the Tararna Mountains ; whilst on the low-lying flat to the westward there is an ontlet to the sea, about three miles distant, by the Waiwiri stream. Every part of it is historic ground, Papai-

tonga having been the scene of one of the most important of ancient Maori fights, and the little island which has given its name to the lake the principal battle-ground. To this day the island is a perfect necropolis of human bones, although concealed and protected by the dense growth oj evergreen vegetation that now covers the site of the ancient pa. The original possessors of this picturesque lake —the Muanpoko—after being vanquished by Te Rauparaha and

his armed followers, were driven out of the district, but a remnant was afterwards permitted to come back and settle at Horowhenua, a little further to the north, which is still the home of the tribe.’ The Papaitonga Lake is the home and breeding place of numberless waterfowl. Sir Walter Baller brought out with him from England white swans, Egyptian and barnacle geese, Iceland sheld-ducks, mallards and other birds, and these are all now fairly established there. But besides the imported birds, the lake teems with native wild duck and teal of various kinds. Not a shot is allowed to be fired on these placid waters, and the ducks breed among the ranpo sedges in perfect security. Among recent visitors to this sylvan retreat was the Hon. W. Pember Reeves, and to commemorate this visit his name was given to one of the pretty wooded bays in the lake. This inspired his poetic muse, and we have the result in the following beautiful verses, which are now published for the first time :—

IN PEMBER BAY, PAPAITONGA LAKE. Safe from the mountain tempest’s wild alarms. Safe from the driving sea-wind’s bitter spray. Placid, enfolded in the forest’s arms, Lies Pember Bay. Did some brown lover in his fancy’s yontb, Name thee in accents musically slow. Soft Papaitonga, • Beauty of the South,’ . Called long ago ? Midway between the mountains and the deep, Secure from upland cold, from salt winds keen, Bathed in sweet air and sunshine thou dost keep A golden mean. Dark clonds may brood on yonder peaks and spurs. Chill winds may chase the sea f >am flake on flake, But here is peace. Nought ruffles, nothing stirs The tranquil lake. Nought shakes the ferns, whose interlacing fronds, Like sea birds’ wings, uplift their giant pinions. Nought stirs the brakes, whose creepers’ myriad bonds Guard green dominions. Look, while the sunset clings to yonder range. Look, while the lake gleams silver in its ray, And pray that though all beauty else may change This scene may stay. Here the wild birds, from ancient coverts pressed, May seek asylum by this silent mere ; For though no other glade or wave give rest, They find it here. Though in an hour the forest fire ends all That nature can in patient ages do. Though ’neatb the axe the straight tall trees must fall The wide land through. Yet in this sacred wood no axe shall ring, These winding shores shall sanctuary give, Where in cool thickets happy birds may sing, And verdure live. Long, Papaitonga, may thy ferns grow fair, Thy graceful to6-tod droop and sway, And never tree or bird know scathe or scare By Pember Bay. Onr illustration is from an excellent photograph by Mr G. Lindaner.