LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XII, Issue XXV, 23 June 1894, Page 597

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

VELVETS.

NE of the latest novelties in fans —those weapons of the flirt—is the white or black gauze eventail, on which a band-painted nymph peers from out a crescent moon, devised in glittering spangles. I have lately seen a transparent black fan, displaying a glowing red crescent, and stars studded here and there in harmony with the queen of the night. Skirts discreetly draped, and sensible jupes with bold, broad pleats at the back, share the favour of ces dames. But before I ply my pen in describing the full-length

delights of our final sketch, I must primarily devote my attention to the dainty appendages. A necessity now is a fanciful muff in dark green velvet and mink tails. The ribbons that twist and turn in sb charming a manner are composed of black satin, forming a pretty addition to the front of the skirt. These muffs de fantaisie need not assume the enormous proportions of the latest fur * Granny ’ arrangement. XConsequently many women with an eye to dainty cosiness have gone in for muffs made to match their gowns. **• » ♦ * A kind of ‘ Rob Roy ’ cap, savouring somewhat of the Tam-o-Shanter —minus its flatness—is given in my first sketch. Being en suite with the remainder of the costume, it is composed of the green velvet, jauntily draped over a

bandeau covered with jet. A tuft of black ostrich plumes is perched in front, while behind a larger feather, secured by a velvet rosette, falls on the hair. If the wearer were so inclined, she might pierce a long, jet-headed pin through the cap.

The baby bonnets that lend so piquantly innocent an expression to the face bid fair to be completely revived, judging from a black lace and ruby velvet model issued from Paris. Over there, young girls are going in considerably for hats with waved brims.

Our artist has selected a smart cape—stylish through its very simplicity—for the picture second in my column. Mink tails edge this tippet, that is cut so as to fall en godets

—in funnels. In fact, it is fashioned on the decided ‘ bell > principle. I need not add that green velvet is the material in this case, nor that the high, shaped collar is an all necessary adjunct; a turned-down one would spoil the whole effect.

Now for the complete green velvet frock, which is the most important picture.—The skirt—escaping the ground, though it merely reveals the tips of the wearer’s boots—is made in a plain, crisp walking style, with broad organ cleats at the back. A narrow border of mink runs round the jupe, this dark-brown fur being alsointroducedon the corsage. Women are sure to fancy the fashioning of the smart bodice which shows an arrangement planned somewhat on the

' pinafore ' system. Ecru guipure, laid flatly on the velvet, constitutes the V-shaped trimming and the garniture under the arms. Look well at this front view, and you will conceive an accurate idea of the back, planned on similar lines. The pleated basque adds greatly to the general elegance of the gown. In this model the corsage has three linings ; firstly, a sateen, then a porous flannel, and lastly, a shot silk one, hiding, tailor-wise, all the uninteresting whalebones that, like temper, should be judiciously concealed. Thanks to this triple a'liance, the costume is sufficiently warm for out-door wear, the addition of the pretty cape being merely needed. Velveteen has attained so great a perfection that it might be successfully substituted for the

dearer velvet. On evening gowns, velours folds crowning the berthe are much in vogue, and tinsel fringes are the rape.

Trimmings are, of course, all important features in the new gowns. Whatever the colour of the gown, and whatever the material, you cannot do wrong if you use jet. It has been prepared in handsome flouncings of jet applique on net, in bold Renaissance designs ; and the light gelatine paillettes, whith cannot be distinguished from jet, save by their weight, have been utilised for embroidering net flouncings and for the close fringes that edge many of them.

Many coloured beads are also employed for galons and flouncings, nearly all with straight edges, unless they follow the novelty of this year, namely—the Vandyke border; cloth and velvet are frequently introduced as appliques in the midst of embroideries to carry out the pattern. Herringbone galons in beads and tinsel threads, and in plain braids, velvet, and satin ribbons, are intended to surround many skirts ; black and white are often combined. Crochet is introduced into mantle trimmings in black for day wear, and in Oriental mixtures of colour for evening wear, pearls being greatly in favour together with gold. Steel is combined with jet and with gold, and it is used a great deal on most of the beautiful French models now to be seen in London. As we borrow our notions-fronr these, we are likely to use it freely as the season advances ; and many of the multi-coloured woollen

stuffs are trimmed with the new shaded braids. As I was examining a large selection of jet trimmings, I came across a Swiss belt with the black beads threaded on elastic, so that it could adjust itself to any waist or any figure—an excellent notion. It glittered charmingly, and was made in the best cut beads.

My last sketch this week is a very pretty ball dress made for a stylish London belle.

Heloise.