DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY-PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1909; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS.

Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1909 Session II, C-06

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1909. NEW ZEALAND.

DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY-PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1909; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS.

Presented to both Houses of the General Assembly pursuant to Section 17 oj " The Scenery Preservation Act, 1908."

Sir, — Department of Lands, Wellington, 14th June, 1.909. I have the honour to submit herewith report on scenery-preservation for the twelve months ended the 31st March, 1909. I have &c, William C. Kensington, The Hon. Thomas Mackenzie, Under-Secretary for Lands. Minister in Charge of Scenery-preservation.

REPORT. During the twelve months'ended 31st March, 1909, there has not been any marked activity in the way of scenery-preservation, but steady and consistent progress has been made in the direction of acquiring and proclaiming areas of attractive forest lands when such are not needed for settlement, are well suited for scenery-preservation, and can be secured at a reasonable cost. Although several suitable areas are under survey, and have in some cases been " taken " under the Public Works Act, the final steps have not been taken except in a few cases. Reservations during the Year. Up to the 31st March, 1908, a total area of 33,931 acres had been acquired, the greater portion of this being Crown lands gazetted for scenic purposes under the Act, and the balance being private freehold and Native lands. During the year just ended a further area of 5,045 acres has been similarly proclaimed under the Act, and details are set forth in Appendix A, wherein are shown the location of each section and its area. The principal reserves so acquired are the beautiful Kumutoto Bay, in Queen Charlotte Sound, close to Picton, which was purchased from the Native owners ; the Waro limestone rocks, near Hikurangi, North Auckland ; and a beautiful little strip of Native bush along the South Wairoa River bank near Hunua, twenty miles south of Auckland. The other areas reserved are also very picturesque, and form a valuable addition to the existing scenic reserves of the Dominion. In order to secure protection over the lands that have been proclaimed scenic reserves under the Land Act, legislation should be passed bringing them under the Scenery Preservation Act. It is also desirable that Native lands taken for scenery-preservation purposes under the Public Works Act should be brought under the Scenery Preservation Act in the same manner.

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EXPENDITURE DURING YEAR. Although the results of scenery-preservation up to the year 1909 are very gratifying, and represent a national asset whose present and future value it is almost impossible to place too high an estimate upon, yet it is equally gratifying to point out that the expenditure in acquiring and setting apart the freehold lands included in the reservation has been comparatively trifling. When the Scenery Preservation Act of 1903 was passed, a special vote of £100,000 was set apart for the necessary purchasemoney and other expenses in connection with scenery-preservation ; but the following table shows that rigid economy has been practised in spending this amount, and that no less than £72,323 is still available for future purchases and maintenance.

Comparison of Expenditure.

Details of expenditure for the year are given in the statement of accounts following Appendix A. It will be recognised that the annual cost of the Scenery Preservation Board is a very small proportion indeed of the total expenses, which are chiefly made up by the purchase of land, administration, fencing, surveys, and valuations. NoETi-i Island Main Trunk Railway Scenic Reserves. Since last November the recommendations of the Scenery .Preservation Board as to comprehensive and adequate scenic reservations along the route of the popular North Island Main Trunk Railway, which had been sanctioned by the Government, were advanced a further stage by survey parties having been kept steadily at work in surveying and laying off the minimum areas that are deemed absolutely necessary for reservation in the immediate vicinity of the line, in order to preserve the most striking features of the scenery for the admiration of travellers and the protection of the lower-lying lands beneath. The first reserve surveyed was in the immediate vicinity of Ohakune, and comprises a striking forest-clad bluff (Raetihi No. 5b Block) in full view of the railway. It forms an impressive background to the view from the train, and is generally looked upon as a magnificent example of the Waimarino bush scenery. Other reserves along the line near Turangarere and Whakapapa Gorge are now under process of survey, and it is to be hoped that by the publication of next year's report a most valuable addition will have been made to the present reserves. Among the lands now being surveyed are some 2,000 acres in the Whaharangi Block, which front the Raetihi-Pipiriki Coach-road for six miles, and partially adjoin the Wanganui River for about three miles. The famous " Dress-circle "is included among these reservations, and some very picturesque scenery ; whilst an historical rata-tree known as " King Dick " is among the objects of interest on the route. It is hoped that the areas will be completely surveyed and gazetted by the end of the year. Reasons for Reservation. It cannot be too often pointed out that the Government in making these reserves is actuated by a desire to interfere as little as possible with settlement, and only to reserve those lands which cannot support more than a comparatively sparse population, and from their generally rugged character are not well adapted for agricultural or pastoral purposes, whilst the destruction of the bush on the hillsides would undoubtedly tend to seriously damage the lower-lying lands, and choke up the streams that at present run harmlessly down the valleys ; whilst in many other respects the reservations will confer a boon on the community at large, irrespective of their scenic value. This policy has been strenuously followed from the very first, and in no case has any genuine complaint been made that farm-land has ever been withheld from settlement for aesthetic purposes. Scenery Preservation Board. Owing to the departure for England of Mr. Donne, General Manager of the Tourist Department, and the alteration in the status of that Department, it will be necessary to bring in an amendment of the Scenery Preservation Act, and to reconstruct the personnel of the Board, as at present it is very difficult to obtain a quorum at any meeting. Mr. T. E. Donne has always taken a lively interest in scenery-preservation, and his departure from New Zealand affords a fitting opportunity of noticing it. The report of the Board appears in Appendix D.

1904-5. 1905-6. 1906-7. 1907-8. 1908-9. Compensation for land Expenses of Commission and Board ... Salaries of officers... Administration (including fencing) Miscellaneous (surveys, valuations, &c.) £ £ £ £ £ 3,813 24 325 1,063 540 216 1,822 3,336 1,221 7,856 185 ' 304 801 4,286 86 175 382 555 52 527 Totals 2,090 5,084 9,146 5,484 5,765

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Inspections. From the visits paid by the Inspector of Scenic Reserves to many of the areas under his supervision, it is gratifying to know that they are all in pretty good condition, are very little infested with noxious weeds, and have in no way been detrimentally affected by the periodical fires that occur, particularly in the North Island. His report appears in Appendix B. ;■■.',: MOKAU RIVER. It has been the custom each year to devote a special article to a scenic resort in the Dominion. In the report of 1906-7 a full account (illustrated by photographs and plans) of the North Island Main Trunk Railway route was given, and the public and all concerned were thus made fully aware of intended reservations. In the ensuing year (1907-8) a similar account was given of the Wanganui River scenic proposals between Taumarunui and Wanganui; and from time to time these recommendations are given effect to. This year an interesting account of the Mokau River scenery is given by the Secretary of the Board (Mr. W. R. Jourdain), (vide Appendix D) ; and its perusal, together with an inspection of the photographs and plans that accompany it, will show that, though this charming river has not in the past been much visited, and is not nearly so well known as the Wanganui, yet there is not much doubt that in future, when better accommodation and means of access are provided, it will rank second to none as a scenic resort. Inquiry under the Public Works Act. In giving effect to the recommendations of the Scenery Preservation Board as to the acquisition of Native lands on the Wanganui River bank, it was necessary to acquire several areas of land near Galatea and Athens. Due notice having been served upon the owners and lessees of these lands, objections to the taking were raised by some of the lessees affected, and an inquiry under the Public Works Act was demanded. This was agreed to by the Minister of Public Works, who directed the Stipendiary Magistrate at Wanganui, Mr. R. L. Stanford, to hold it. The Department was represented by the Crown Prosecutor at Wanganui (Mr. Clifford Marshall) and the Secretary of the Scenery Preservation Board ; and, after hearing their explanation of the reasons for taking the land, and the legal position of the matter, together with the evidence of the counsel and witnesses who objected to the taking, the Magistrate reported that no case whatever had been made out against the taking of the land, which was strictly in accordance with the law, and that " none of the objections by either objectors showed any private injury done by the taking of the said land for which due compensation is not provided by the said Act." General. It is hoped to continue during the current year the surveys of the North Island Main Trunk Railway route and the Wanganui River bank scenic reserves, and, if satisfactory progress can be made with their reservation, other important localities will be similarly dealt with, and the most pressing needs of scenery-preservation will then be satisfactorily provided for. It has been repeatedly asserted, and it is widely believed, that isolated clumps of native bush, or even long strips of the same, will not survive for many years when the surrounding country is all cleared, and numerous examples are quoted of settlers who have tried to preserve small areas of bush on their holdings, mainly for the pur-pose of affording shelter for their stock, and how the bush has gradually disappeared. It is well to explain once more why such areas never survive. It invariably happens that in these cases stock are allowed free access to the bush, with the inevitable result that the undergrowth is either eaten or trampled down ; then the bleak winds sweep through unrestrained, and the bush dies out. But over and over again, when the bush is securely fenced off so that the undergrowth and young scrub can grow up, the trees have been preserved, and after twenty years of exposure in open country are a standing monument of what care and forethought will do.

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APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A. Reserves made in 1908-9 under the Scenery Preservation Acts and "The Public Works Act, 1908."

Recommendation No. Local Name or Locality. District. Area. Date of Proclamation in Gazette. Auckland District. A. e. p. 1 1 10 66, 67 86* North Rotorua Scenic Reserves South Wairoa River Bank (near Hunua) Section 6, Block VIII, Rotorua Survey District Section 31, Block IV, Rotorua Survey District Section 30, Block IV, Rotorua Survey District Block V, Rotoiti SurvevDistrict Section 12, Block VIII, Rotorua Survey District Section 30a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Section 81b, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Sections 98a, 99a, 100a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Section 101a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Sections 110a, and 111a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Section 112a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Section 113a, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Middle portion of Section 41, Block XVI, Hukerenui Survey District North middle portion of Section 41, Block XVI, Hukerenui Survey District North-east portion of Section 41, Block XVI, Hukerenui Survey District South-west portion of Section 40, Block XVI, Hukerenui Survey District Section 11, Block XI, Wairere Survey District Section 2, Block XIV, Coromandel Survey District 27 2 0 2 2 8 1,450 0 0 1,685 0 0 10 9 14 3 8 16 1 0 7 10 16 0 0 2 3 0 16 July, 1908. 16 „ 16 „ 16 „ 16 „ 5 Nov., „ 5 „ 5 „ 5 „ 5 „ ' „ 5 „ 8 3 20 5 „ 14 0 34 5 „ Waro limestone rocks 14 0 28 5 „ 105* 10 2 38 5 ,/ ./ 8 3 29 5 „ 79 Wairere Falls 128 0 0 12 „ 78 Coromandel-Mercur; Bay Road Scenic Reserve 104 2 10 26 „ Block X, Orahiri Survey District, part of Hauturu East No. 3b, Section 3 Block X, Orahiri Survey District, part of Hauturu East No. 3b, Section 5 Block X, Orahiri Survey District, part of Hauturu East No. 3b, Section 4 Section 8, Block X, Orahiri Survey District Section 102, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District Section 103a, and part Section 103, Block XII, Wairoa Survey District 23 2 0 14 Jan., 1909. Ruakuri Caves Scenic Reserve 43 0 0 14 „ 63 18 3 0 14 „ 14 2 0 14 „ South Wairoa River bank 44 0 19 4 Feb., „ 86* 11 0 0 4 ir it 3,668 3 13 * Scenery Preservation Commission number. *

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Orieri Scenic Reserve, Pelorus Sound.

[Tourist Dept. photo

Stafford Point Scenic Reserve, Pelorus Sound.

[_". Hum,phries, photo

To lace p. 4-]

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Views of Whakapapa Gorge, North Waimarino.

[0. T. Salmon, photo.

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[0. T. Salmon, photo.

Boiling Lake, with Ice Cliffs, on Mount Ruapehu.

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[IF. A. Collis, photo.

Sandstone Rock at Entrance, Mokau River.

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Appendix A.—Reserves made in 1908-9 under the Scenery Preservation Acts and "The Public Works Act, 1908"— continued.

Recomlendation No. Local Name or Locality. District. Area. Date of Proclamation in Gazette. Taranaki District. 55a Corbett Road Historic Reserve Subdivision 2 of Section 85, Waitara West District, Block VII, Paritutu Survey District Portion of Section 7 (Native Reserve), Block III, Waitara Survey District a. 0 B. P. 0 25 10 Sept., 1908. 130* Pukemiro Scenic Reserve 7 2 18 25 Mar., 1909. 7 3 3 , r Wellington District. * 19 75 Pongaroa Scenic - Reserve I Momahaki Scenic ReSections 1 to 12, Block IV, Town of Pongaroa Sections 1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 12, 13, Block VII, Town of Pongaroa Parts of Sections 1 and 5, and Sections 6 to 16, Block XII, parts of Sections 3 to .9 and Sections 11 and 13, and part 14, Block XIII, part of 16, and Sections 14 and 18 to 24, Block IX, Town of Pongaroa, and Section 14, Suburbs of Pongaroa, and closed roads Section 16, Block IX, Momahaki Survey District Section 1, Block VI, Hunua Survey District Section 2, Block VI, Hunua Survey District Section 3, Blocks VI and X, Hunua Survey District Section 4, Block VI, Hunua Survey District Section 10, Block XI, Kaitieke Survey District Section 35, Block I, Aohanga Survey District 5 2 48 526 0 0 1 35 3 11 1 38 30 July, 1908. 30 „ 30 „ 22 Oct. „ serve r 68 0 0 22 „ North Waimarino - 4 2 37 22 „ 77 11 0 0 22 . 27 0 28 22 „ ir 73 0 0 19 Nov., „ 76 74 Mangatiti Scenic Reserve 5 2 16 4 Mar., 1909. 772 1 5 Kumutoto Bay -J Marlborough District. 20 Aug., 1908. Part of Section 2, Block I, Arapawa Survey District Section 3, Block I, Arapawa Survey District Section 11, Block I, Arapawa Survey District. (Part Section 2, Tareamona Block.) Section 10, Block VII, Orieri Survey District 322 0 0 82 237 0 0 20 „ 83 u ... 8 2 0 18 Feb., 1909. 89 Pelorus Sound 29 0 0 4 Mar., „ 596 2 0 * Scenery Preservation Commission's number. Summary. Distriot. Number. Auckland ... ... ... ... ... 7 Taranaki ... ... ... ... ... 2 Wellington ... ... ... ... ... 5 Marlborough ... ... ... ... 3 Area. A. R. p. 3,668 3 13 7 3 3 772 1 5 596 2 0 Totals, 1908-9 ... ... ... 17 Reserved up to 31st March, 1908 ... ... 117 5,045 1 21 33,931 3 9 Grand totals ... ... ... 134 38,977 0 30 38,977 0 30

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Statement of Accounts showing the Amounts expended, and the Purposes to which the Money s6 expended have been applied, for the Year ended 31st March, 1909. Amount expended. Purchase of land (private land), — £ s. d. £ s. d. Onamalutu Scenic Reserve (Marlborough).. .. .. .. 4 5 7 Paraparaumu Scenic Reserve (Block IX, Kaitawa).. .. .. 34 0 0 Part Section 209, Block IV, Belmont .. .. .. 273 18 9 Rotorua-Okoroire Scenic Reserve (Sections 11, 12, 14, and 16, Block XIV, and Section 12, Block XV, Rotorua) .. .. 359 5 4 Sections 11, 12, Block XVI, Tiriraukawa .. .. .. ... 82 0 0 Taieri Native Reserve (Sections 29, 30, and part 28) .. . . 300 0 0 Wairoa River Banks Scenic Reserve (Sections 112 a and 113 a. Wairoa) 17 8 9 1,070 18 5 Credit, Wellington City Council, — Balance of share of purchase-money of Wilton's Bush .. .. 59 0 0 1,011 18 5 Purchase of land (Native land), — Kumutoto Scenic Reserve (Block I, Arapawa) .. .. '.. 917 9 2 Mangaotaki Scenic Reserve (part Karu-o-te-whenua B No. 2b No. 5a Block) .. .. .. .. 155 0 0 Meeting of the Waters, New Plymouth (Block X, Paritutu) . . .. 64 8 9 Muaupoko ANo 2 Block (part), Block X, Kaitawa) .. . . 405 4 9 Pipiriki Mineral Springs (Block X, Rareie) .. .. .. 45 0 0 Tongoio Falls Scenic Reserve (Block IV, Puketapu) ... , . 151 17 2 Wairua Falls Scenic Reserve (Blocks IV and XVI, Mangakahia) .. 146 14 5 Waitomo Caves (Block X, Orahiri) .. .. 915 12 1 2,801 6 4 Administration (including fencing) .. .. . . .. .. .. 1,063 12 1 Boards' expenses (meetings, &c.) .... .. . . . . .. 23 17 0 Inspector, £300 ; Secretary, £25 . . .. . . .. .. .. 325 0 0 Miscellaneous (surveys, valuations, &c.) . . .. .. .. .. 539 11 4 Total .. .. .. .. .. .. .. £5,765 5 2

APPENDIX B. Report by tub Inspector op Scenic Reserves. During the year I have inspected fifty-five scenic reserves in the Auckland Land District, with an area of 14,746 acres ; and in the Wellington Land District I have inspected forty-four reserves, with an area of 2,616 acres ; or, altogether, ninety-nine reserves, with a total area of 17,362 acres. In addition to the foregoing, I have reported on the Whangape Hot Springs, Waiakake Bush, Day's Bay Reserve, bush on Puketoi Range, Makuri Gorge, milling operations, Mokau River, Turakina Bush, and proposed Rangitikei reserves. In the middle of November Mr. C. T. Salmon, an authorized assistant under Mr. E. P. Turner, was started on the delimitation of the proposed reserves along the railway near Ohakune ; and at the beginning of March Mr. J. H. Lindsay was put on to cut out the proposed reserves near Turangarere. On inspection of the several pieces of bush that had been proposed as reserves by the late Commissioners and the Preservation Board, it was found that in several instances between Mangaweka and Turangarere the bush had been leased to millers, and spoiled for scenery purposes ; it seems, therefore, advisable that the Act should be so amended that when it has been decided to acquire a parcel of land for scenic purposes the owner or any other person could be prevented from damaging it in any way. It would be an advantage, also, if when any parcel of land is proclaimed a scenic reserve it if so facto came under the provisions of the Scenery Preservation Act, The surveys of the parcels of Native land to be acquired along the North Island Main Trunk Railway will be completed about the middle of April, and then I propose (with your approval) putting the two survey parties to cut out the proposed reserves along the Wanganui River. Damage by Grazing. —ln nearly every reserve inspected I found that stock were in the habit of grazing ;so far, however, in most reserves the damage done is comparatively slight; and if stock be hereafter excluded the undergrowth will soon recover. Some of the small reserves, however, close to townships have been looked upon as commons, and the settlers have been permitted to run their cattle, horses, &c, ad libitum. If our reserves are really to be preserved in their natural beauty, it will be necessary to prohibit this wholesale grazing of stock. I pointed out at some length in a report sent in in November how authorities in other countries were all of opinion that grazing in forests is extremely detrimental. It is the same here as elsewhere : stock destroy the ferns, mosses, shrubs, and young trees, trample down the soft and spongy natural surface of the ground, drying winds sweept in, and sooner or later the big trees themselves die or are blown down. Stock also are one of the chief factors that aid the spread of noxious weeds, for they carry many seeds in their dung, and by trampling down the native undergrowth make a suitable bed for the growth of wind-blown seeds and the seeds

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they deposit themselves. Fires also will spread in forests in which stock have grazed, as in such forests the undestroyed undergrowth and trees are always parched, and ready to fire from the merest spark. A forest in which the undergrowth has been destroyed loses its capacity for holding back the water from heavy rains ; the effluent streams rapidly swell, inundate the lower lands, and then quickly dry up, causing great inconvenience by the consequent shortage of water. In hilly country the destruction of the bush is generally followed by the surface-soil slipping into the streams, and leaving bare rockfaces. In the Rhone District alone, in France, it is estimated that floods (due principally to the deforesting of the high lands) have caused damage to the extent of several millions in a comparatively short number of years. In our own country, also, floods are even now much more destructive than when the upper parts of the rivers and tributaries flowed from forest-clad lands. The average pioneer farmer is not a travelled man nor a reading man ; the forest and scenery reserves are to him a mere fad and waste of good land and money ; and he values them only so long as he can run his stock in them without the inconvenience of paying rent. Even on his own farm he seldom preserves clumps of native bush to afford his stock shelter from winter winds and summer heat. Noxious Weeds. —As a rule the reserves inspected have been free from noxious weeds ; a few, however, in the Auckland District had a few patches of furze and blackberries. In the Wellington District the Californian thistle and the burr thistle have spread into some of the reserves, particularly in the Rangitikei district. Animal Pests. —ln the Auckland District rabbits may be seen in the more accessible reserves, but they are so few as not yet to be a pest. In Wellington District, also, the reserves are so far not seriously troubled with rabbits. There is an exception, however, in the Tongariro National Park, for there I find that rabbits and hares have become so plentiful as to make it advisable to at once take measures, to prevent their further increase. Fires. —The greatest danger we shall always have in managing our reserves is from fires. The bush on some of the reserves inspected in the Wellington District I found quite destroyed by fires that occurred in the summer of 1908. In spite of last summer having been a dry one there was not much damage done by fire. There were a few small fires on the Tongariro Park, and one near the mountain hut has rather damaged the surroundings of the beautiful Ohinepango Spring. I have sent to nearly every owner adjoining a reserve a circular reminding him of his liability for fires ; and I have nailed up one or more notices on boards warning the general public that the reserves must not in any way be damaged. I know no really effective measure to protect bush from fire, but I think it is a most certain disadvantage to have any open grass, scrub, or fern land within a reserve ; and should such exist it should either be excluded, or else an inner fence should be erected, and stock allowed on the open part only, to keep it eaten down. In any future fencing arrangements I would strongly urge that nothing but the big trees within 2 chains of the fencing-line be allowed to be cut down within the reserve boundary, as then the native shrubs will soon spring up in the charred margin of the bush, and the necessity for grazing will then be obviated. It is a great mistake for any one to assert that fires do not spread in green bush. Along the Main Trunk line I saw burnt bush which was the result of a fire that originated some miles away. Fires are often caused by workmen when laying out new roads. The scrub, fern, &c, are in the way, and the easiest method to get rid of it is to burn it off, and it frequently happens that in doing so hundreds of acres of the contiguous lands are burnt off. It is the frequent burning-off of the fern and scrub that is often responsible for the very impoverished condition of, open country, as, after fires, heavy rains wash away all the ash and natural humus. It would be advisable if the Public Works and Roads Departments instruct their foremen never to burn off for road-formation when going through reserves. Indigenous Birds. —Many of our native birds are fast becoming rare, and one of the objects of our reserves is that they may afford a scanctuary for native-bird life. In the Auckland District such birds as fantails, tomtits, grey-warblers, silver-eyes, the small and large cuckoo, and the kingfisher are fairly plentiful; parrakeets kakas, pigeons, wekas, landrails, kokakos, robins, and whiteheads are generally rare, and the bell-bird seems to have become extinct. On the reserves near Rotorua I was informed that a great amount of pigeon-slaughtering was done last season, and from the number of used cartridges I saw on the ground there was no doubt of the truth of the information. In the Wellington District I found that tuis, fantails, tomtits, grey-warblers, the two cuckoos, kakas, parrakeets, whiteheads, and riflemen are generally plentiful. The whitehead (supposed to be nearly extinct) I found in nearly every reserve of any size, even close to towns. Kingfishers I saw few of. The bell-bird and kokako are scarce, while the huia seems to have become extinct as far as Wellington District is concerned. Pigeons are now rare, except in the Waimarino Forest. lam credibly informed that last winter people even camped in the bush near Ohakune, and shot pigeons in hundreds to sell in the large towns. The sale of the native pigeon should be more strictly prohibited than the sale of trout. I find that blackbirds, thrushes, yellowhammers, and sparrows have spread to the most out-of-the-way places. Fencing. —In most instances I found adjoining owners willing to pay one-half of the cost of the fence between their land and the reserves, but the boundaries to be fenced are altogether of such a great length that the fencing can only be do ne by degrees. Trespassing on reserves near towns is generally done by the stock of people who, not having enough land of their own, turn their animals into the public roads. These people could probably be stopped by a notice in the local journals that their stock would be impounded. In laying out township-sites it has not heretofore been the custom to make reserves forputure water-supply, and in most country towns the water-supply is now obtained from an area that has

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become deforested. In all future surveys of township-sites it would be highly desirable to reserve a fairly large area of bush on the banks of the nearest suitable streams so that it might serve as a safe catchment-area, and also for the usual purposes of our scenic reserves. In handing over scenic reserves to local bodies, or to the control of Domain Boards, there should be strict provision that grazing should not be allowed, and that the bush should in no way be damaged. In most instances where local bodies have got the control of scenic reserves they allow grazing, and in some cases have even cleared the land for sports-grounds. In cutting up Crown land it is the rule to reserve 1 chain on each side of all streams of half a chain or more in width. These reserves are always shown as roads on plans, and eventually get into the control of local bodies. As the reservation is not for wheel traffic, but chiefly to give the public the right of getting along the river, and to preserve the vegetation that protects the banks, it would be as well if these reservations were kept in Government control, as the local bodies allow the adjoining settlers to clear the banks of the bush. The necessity for the preservation of forests and spots of scenic interest still continues to be preached in Europe and America. The late President of the United States has worked strongly for the conservation of the forests. In England it has been decided to reforest portions of the coast that are suffering from erosion. It is proposed to replant large areas of deforested land in Scotland and Ireland. Several abbey and castle ruins in England have been purchased by private subscriptions, and some have been given by their owners for the preservation of spots, the history of which is part of the history of the country. In France the Government has purchased the palace at Avignon, where the Popes in stormy mediaeval times had to reside. In England the Government, as such, takes no action ; all is left to private effort. It may safely be said that in this Dominion we now have reserves that are equal to those of any country ; and it is to be hoped that all will realise the importance of preserving them from destruction, so that they may be enjoyed by those who will sooner or later succeed us. ■ E. Phillips Turner, Inspector of Scenic Reserves.

APPENDIX C. Report of the Scenery Preservation Boakd. During the year only three meetings of the Board were held : The Auckland Board met on Thursday, the Ist October, 1908 s and many pressing matters were dealt with, and statutory recommendations submitted to His Excellency the Governor ; the Wellington Scenery Preservation Board met on the 11th September, 1908 ; and the Marlborough Scenery Preservation Board, after visiting the Marlborough Sounds, met at Blenheim on the 17th October, 1908. Several recommendations contained in the above have been given effect to, and the necessary proclamations have appeared from time to time in the New Zealand Gazette. A list of the recommendations during the years is appended. As I am now relinquishing the position of Surveyor-General, my duties as Chairman of the Scenery Preservation Board cease at the same time. My successor as Surveyor-General (Mr. John Strauchon) will be the new Chairman of the Board, and from his extensive knowledge of the Dominion he will be able to carry on the work been so satisfactorily accomplished by the late Commission between 1903 and 1906, and by thd present Board since the latter date. Thos. Humphries, Chairman, Scenery Preservation Board.

Schedule of Recommendations of the Scenery Preservation Board for the Year ended 31st March, 1909.

. o a i • w a Locality. Area. Action taken. Area in Blocks XIV and XV, Co.omandel Survey District Wairere Falls, Blocks XI, XV, Wairere Survey Disrtict Part Section 2, Waitakerei, Block XII, Kumeu Survey District Natural tunnel on Mangapohue Road. Block XI, Kawhia South Survey District Adoption of recommendations of former Scenery Preservation Commission not yet acted tickland Distric, A. R. P. 105 0 0 Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 26th November, 1908. Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 12th November, 1908. Held over. 78 79 175 0 0 80 15 0 0 81 100 0 0 '/ Under consideration. upon

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[W. A. Collis, photo.

Looking up Mokau River, One Mile from Mouth.

To face p, S.]

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Twelve Miles up the Mokau River.

[W. A. Collis, 'photo.

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Schedule of Recommendations of the Scenery Preservation Board— continued.

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i o a'-s • o* o M a Locality. Area. Action taken. Wellington Distrii H. 70 Papaitonga Lake, Levin, Block II, Waitohu Survey District Part Section 5, Block XIII, Mount Cerberus Survey District (educational reserve) Section 14, Block XVI, Apiti Survey District Section 4, Block I, Mangahao Survey District Part Section 13, Block I, Aohanga Survey District Section 2a, Block IX, Momahaki Survey District Section 10, Block XI, Kaitieke Survey District Sections 1, 2, 3, 4, Block VI, Hunua Survey District. 48 2 0 Held over. 71 50 0 0 Under action. 72 34 0 0 73 71 0 0 74 5 2 16 Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 4th March, 1909. Under action. 75 526 0 0 76 77 73 0 0 110 0 0 Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 19th November, 1908. Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of ' 22nd October, 1908. M< \rlborough Distn 'ct. 85 86 87 88 82 83 84 Kumutoto Scenic Reserve, Block I, Arapawa Survey District Kumutoto Scenic Reserve (extension) Ngaruru Reserve, Tory Channel, Sections 2, 3, Blocks III and IX, Arapawa Survey District Ngakuta Reserve, Part Section 5, Block XI, Linkwater Survey District Sections 22, 23, 24, 65, 66, Block IX, Wakamarina Survey District Sections 10,11, Block VII, Linkwater Survey District Section 6, Block II, Linkwater Survey District Section 10, Block VII, Orieri Survey District Sections 10,11, Block III, Orieri Survey District Sections 8, 9, Block VII, Orieri Survey District Sections 13, 14, Block XI, Orieri Survey District 1 Tennyson Inlet: areas in Tennyson Survey District and Orieri Survey District (Crown lands) Tennyson Inlet : leasehold land „ freehold land „ islands 877 0 0 8 2 0 518 0 0 6 0 0 372 2 0 309 0 0 131 0 0 Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 20th August, 1908. Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 18th February, 1909. Held over. /; 89 29 0 0 Proclaimed as a reserve in Gazette of 4th March, 1909. Under consideration. 90 72 0 0 91 209 0 0 92 63 0 0 it \ 7,174 0 0 ■ 93 280 0 0 698 3 20 160 0 0 10 0 0 I Held over. „ reserve Adoption of recommendations of former Scenery Preservation Commission not yet given effect to i Under consideration.

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APPENDIX D. Report on the Mokau River. (By W. R. JouRDAiN, Secretary to the Scenery Preservation Board.) Scenic Appearance. In many respects the Mokau River is unrivalled from a scenic point of view, and it undoubtedly presents one of the finest examples of natural vegetation in the Dominion. The comparative lowness of the immediate banks, and the gradual rise of the land at their back, together with the height of the ranges and cliffs which bound the valley through which the river runs, combined with the luxuriance of the forest-growth on most of the land within sight, renders a trip up the river one of the most enjoyable and interesting that can be taken. The many picturesque reaches and bends of the Mokau, and the general narrowness of the stream, makes it difficult to get an extended view of the river from any place, and one is continually coming round a bend to view a fresh picture of delight. The vegetation seen from the stream includes such a wealth of ferns of all varieties, nikau palms, ratas, and the many species of forest-trees that the eye is never satiated whilst viewing the beautiful banks which confine the placid waters of the Mokau, occasionally broken by a rippling rapid, but for the most part gleaming in untroubled blue, with a thousand lovely reflections on their surface of the surrounding trees and ranges. There are few long straights ; there are few expanses of bare and frowning cliffs, so frequently seen on other rivers in New Zealand ; but mile after mile is traversed through a densely wooded and picturesque valley shining in the sunlight in every shade of living green, varied here and there by a flaming rata-tree ablaze in its crimson blossoms, or the creeping convolvulus with its snowy flowerbells,'the wild clematis, and the numerous native flowering plants and shrubs which tend to diversify the sombre green of the dense bush, and the few clearings and traces of settlement met with serve to show to the best advantage the scenic beauty of this hitherto-unspoilt part of our Dominion, so rich and famous in its botanical wealth. Character of Vegetation. One noticeable feature of the vegetation on the Mokau is the apparent lack of milling-timber in close proximity to the river, and it would appear that most of the trees suitable for sawmilling purposes are to be found outside the belt of 40 chains which forms the limit of scenic recommendation. The only sawmill now in operation is situated on the bank of the Manga-awakino Stream, and operates up the course of that valley. Consequently there is no commercial reason for the destruction of the bush that now clothes the banks and preserves them from denudation occasioned by the strong freshes in the river, and heavy downfalls of rain that periodically visit the locality. The loose nature of the soil on the banks renders some such protection imperative, and if the bush is cut down some sort of close sward or vegetation must replace it in order that the banks may not continually " cave in " and assist to choke the channel, and render navigation very difficult. Even at present it frequently happens that willow-trees, which have been indiscriminately planted on the banks, have no secure hold on the soil, and, their roots becoming undermined by freshes, whole trees, with a large portion of the bank, fall headlong into the river, and require to be removed at heavy expense, as otherwise they form dangerous snags. No doubt the Department of Agriculture can suggest a suitable grass to plant along the banks, such as the " buffalo-grass " used for that purpose at Mildura, Victoria, or " cowgrass " (a species of red-clover, Trifolium protensi, variety perenne), or a creeper such as ice-plant, ivy, &c, or a suitable small shrub. Particularly just above the coal-mines these willows have proved most detrimental, as their roots do not extend deep enough to grip the firm soil beneath the covering of the banks, and the trees jut out far into the channel. Mr. E. Phillips Turner, Inspector of Scenic Reserves, has furnished the following interesting report on the botany of the river : — Botanical Sketch of the Mokau Valley. " The forest which covers the deep valley through which the Mokau River takes its sinuous course is remarkable for the variety and tropical luxuriance of its vegetation ; and at this time of the year, when most plants are putting forth new fronds and shoots, the nature-lover finds here his paradise. In ascending the river from the estuary the eye wanders from beauty to beauty : here it is caught by the gorgeous crimson blossoms of a huge rata displaying its brilliance above the tops of smaller trees ; here it is a tall tree-fern spreading its feathery fronds in graceful curve ; here it is the nikau palm peeping through the roof of lower trees ; here it is the native convolvulus, with its beautiful snowwhite campanulate flowers, or the soft leafage of the muehlenbeckia hanging in festoons or draping the smaller trees ; here the scandent rata, in search of light, completely clothes with its light-green leaves the trunks of tall trees ; on this small opening in the bush the toetoe-kakaho waves its silky plumes ; on this steep face hang in beautiful imbrication the young fronds of the piupiu fern (Lomaria capensis), shaded from coppery-red to light green ; here it is the dark, glossy green of the karaka or the epiphytic puka, or the feathery pendulous foliage of the kowhai; i&l this varying beauty simply fascinating the eye of the beholder. 1" The plants that compromise the flora of this district are not equally distributed : as the course of the river is at right angles to the sea, so climatic conditions fast change. On the whole, tawa, tawhero, and rata are the dominant trees ; but for the first five miles from the mouth of the river pukatea, karaka, mangeao, rewarewa, puriri, houhere, ake-rautenga, and kowhai are plentiful; while there are also in small quantity heketara, wharangi, ngaio, titoki, akepiro, and Olearia Solandri, with most common bush shrubs in greater or lesser quantity.

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" From 5 to 10 miles, tawa, rata, and tawhero still predominate, with a good deal of heketara and the common bush shrubs, whilst ngaio, wharangi, akepiro, and Olearia Solmdri have disappeared ; there is less ake-rautenga, but occasional rimu and kahikatea come in. Tree-ferns are more abundant, and nikau fairly plentiful. " From 10 to 12 miles red-beech is seen on some of the spurs, but tawa, rata, and tawhero still are dominant; kowhai and karaka are scarce, the patete is plentiful, also lianes and the beautiful fern Lomaria capensis. " From 12 to 18 miles there have been several clearings on which mills have been erected, but none are at present working. In this stretch spurs with red-beech are inserted ; nikau palms, too, are plentiful. " From 18 to 23 miles, patete, houhou, and the wheki tree-fern become abundant; whilst karaka and rewarewa are absent, and other coastal trees rarer. " From 23 to 26 miles Banks's cabbage-tree and fuchsia are common, and mingi and neinei are noticed on the faces of red-beech spurs. " From 26 to 28 miles willows have taken up long stretches of the banks, and patches of sedge and toetoekakaho vary the scenery. " From 28 to 30 miles the valley becomes more confined, the stream is often rapid, and the spurs often end in bold precipitous cliffs. , Eed-beech is here more plentiful, there is a great abundance of tree-ferns and lianes, and pukatea, houhou, mahoe, fuchsia, heketara, and mangeao become more plentiful. " In different parts of the Mokau Valley some rare plants are found : at one place the Metrosideros florida, variety aurata (golden rata) is found ; the beautiful ferns Lindsaya viridis, and Marattia fraxinea (parareka, once used as food by the Maoris) were seen. There was no opportunity for a thorough investigation of the bush, but from the launch I recognised the following trees and shrubs, named in the order of their relative numerical importance : Rata (Metrosideros robusta), tawa (Beilschmiedia tawa), tawhero (Weinmannia sylvicola), pukatea (Laurelid novce-zealandice) , rangiora (Brachyglottis repanda), red-beech (Nothofagus jusca), hinau (Elceocarpus dentatus), rewarewa (Knightia excelsa), mangeao (Litsea calicaris), two tea-trees (Leptospormum scoparium and ericoides), raurekau (Coprosma grandifolia), kowhai (Sophora etraptera), puka (Griselinia lucida), houhou (Nothopanax arboreum), mahoe (Melicytus ramiflorus), patete (Schefflera digitata), karaka (Corynocarpus Icevigatus), akerautenga (Dodonea viscosa), houhere (Hoheria populnea), ramarama (Myrtus bullata), tipau (Myrsine Vrvillei), puriri (Vitex lucens), karamu (Coprosma lucida), heketara (Olearia Cunningharnii), putaputaweta (Carpodetus serratus), fuchsia (Fuchsia excorticata), makomako (Aristotelia racemosa), tutu (Coriaria rusdfolia), koromiko (Veronica salidfolia), titoki (Alectryon excelsum), hangehange (Geniostoma ligustrifolium), tarata (Pittosporum eugenioides), Pittosporum Huttonianum, Olearia Solandri, wharangi (Melicope ternata), kahikatea (Podocarpus dacrydioides), taunoka (Carmichailia australis), porokaiwhiria (Hedycarya denlata), rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum), papapa (Alseuosmia macrophylla), lancewood (Pseudopanax crassijolium), matai (Prumnopitys spicata), mingi (Leucopogon fasciculatum), inaka (Dracophyllum, longifolium), neinei (Dracophyllum latifolium), tawheowheo (Quintinia serrata), miro (Podocarpus ferruginous), totara (Podocarpus Mara), ngaio (Myoporum Imtum), akepiro (Olearia furfuracea), Gorokia cotoneaster, waiuatua (Rhabdoihamnus Solandri) , and parataniwha (Elatostemma rugosum). Palms are represented abundantly by nikau (Rhopalostylis sapida). The kiekie (Freycinetia Banksii) is plentiful; and other climbers are Muehlenbeckia australis and csmplexa, Parsonsia heterophylla, Calyslegia tuguriorum, Passiflora tetandra, lawyer (Rubus australis), supplejack (Rhipogonum scandens), Metrosideros scandens, hypericifolia, florida, and florida variety aurata. (Arundo conspicua) toetoekakaho was seen ; Gahnia xanihocarpa and Cladium Sinclairii were seen ; Phormium tenax and Colensoi were seen. In ferns there were noticed Cyathea medullaris and dealbala, Dicksonia squarrosa and Hemitelia Smithii, Lomaria capense, Lindsaya viridis, Gleichenia Cunninghamii, and Marattia fraxinea ; there were numerous others, not identifiable from the launch. " Milling-timber. —lt may safely be said that for thirty miles from the mouth of the Mokau River for a width of 30 chains on each side of the river there is not enough marketable timber to warrant milling operations. In some few places there may be four or five kahikatea and rimu to the acre ; but in most places there are not more than two or three ; and in many places rimu is absent. It cannot, therefore, be claimed that a reservation of from 10 to 30 or 40 chains on each side of the banks will interfere with milling; for any milling-timber that there may be further back can be got at by roads of access that should be laid off wherever the valleys will permit decent grades. " Geology. —There was little opportunity for geological investigation, but from a cursory examination the lowest stratum that was exposed seemed to be the shale that is commonly known as papa; above this there were strata of sandstone of different hardness, and above the sandstones was a thick stratum of limestone that is said to be pure enough for lime-making. Near the heads were considerable deposits of fluviatile alluvium consisting mostly of sands and fine gravels. Mr. Paterson (who has made a study of the district) informed me that calcic phosphate had been found in the district, but that it was not pure enough to warrant working. Between the sandstone and papa there are in many places outcrops of a brown coal, which in one place is now being worked and shipped to Waitara and Wanganui. " Birds. —l must not conclude the nature notes of this sketch without reference to our feathered friends. From the start one is gladdened by the cheerful notes of the tui and the fitful antics of the fantail; and as one gets away from the settlement the beautiful native pigeon may often be seen swooping from tree to tree or lazily warming itself on some exposed branch. Along by the water's edge darts the kingfisher or kotaretare of the Maoris ; rounding some bend one comes suddenly on a brace of grey-duck or teal; gazing aloft one sees floating in the sky the kahu, or harrier ; now the

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ear is charmed by the note of the korimako, or bell-bird ; now it is the pipiwharauroa, or bronze cuckoo ; or the sweet note of the whitehead, or popokatea ; or the chatter of the parrakeet, or kakariki; or the harsh cry of the kaka ; now the sweet soft warble of the riroriro, or New Zealand wren ; also the black-headed tit frequently flits across the view ; thrushes and blackbirds have, of course, invaded the domains of these indigenous inhabitants." Suitableness for Settlement. On the lower reaches for the Mokau the soil appears to be a combination of alluvial papa, sandstone, and limestone, with occasional outcrops of sandstone, limestone, and papa rock. At the mouth there is a mixture of black sand and gravel on the river-beach and sea-coast. On the upper reaches limestone replaces the papa, and the limestone country is reached about thirty-five miles up. The humid nature of the climate, and the comparatively warm temperature that seems to prevail, serves to produce a dense vegetable growth on the rich soil of the banks. From the mouth as far as the coalmines (twenty-five miles up) there are few rocks in the channel, but above the mines the river contracts, and rocks are frequently encountered, considerable clearing of the channel and snags, with improvement of the numerous rapids, being urgently required. The valley enclosing the river narrows as one nears the source, but retains its wooded aspect throughout until settlement is reached near Kawakawa, and the surrounding country is undulating and broken, and easily accessible from the river, being well fitted for settlement both on account of its soil and also through the comparative even nature of the country. On the lower reaches there are occasional areas of fairly flat land, which, when cleared and grassed, would no doubt be suitable for small farms, whilst at the back of many ridges fronting the river are larger areas of undulating land suitable for pastoral purposes, and to such lands means of communication from the river should be carefully preserved. This has been borne in mind when framing the accompanying scenic recommendations, and, in all cases where it seemed advisable, land that is better fitted for settlement than scenery-preservation has been excluded. Only that class of land that cannot be utilised except in large areas, at low rentals and at much expense, has been recommended for reservation, and in these cases the rugged nature of the land and Ihe destruction of its natural covering would occasion for more harm to the river and'district than can be counterbalanced by the settlement of a few farmers, who could only obtain meagre returns from their holdings, to give road access to which would require heavy expenditure owing to the steepness of the country ; and a certain detriment to the river would be occasioned by the denudation of the adjacent hills, once the bush-covering is felled, and the ultimate deposit of much of the surface soil in the bed of the river. The reservation of scenic areas will greatly add to the profitable utilisation of all surrounding land which may be more fitted for settlement and cabable of supporting a sufficient population. The beauty of the Mokau River banks, and their unique scenery, moreover, render the protection of the valley of inestimable value to the State, both for economic and testhetic reasons, and, as the land is now valued as low as it is ever likely to be, its purchase would be comparatively cheap at the present time, yielding a rich return in the years to come. The accompanying plan of proposed reservations, and the photographs illustrating the various parts of the river, serve to more graphically indicate the suggestions contained in this report. Around Mokau* Before commencing a trip up the river the visitor will be well repaid by inspecting the many places of interest near the Heads. Facing the sea-coast, at the back of the township,*is the site of the old Topapahiki Pα of the Ngati-Rakei, the scene of a massacre by Te Rauparaha in the end of 1821. Along the coast, at the base of the clifEs, are numerous caves, * from one of which (Te Ana-pato, or the Shattered Cay now known as the Ochre Cave) the Maoris were accustomed to scrape a reddish sediment (kokowai, or red ochre) off the walls, using it for colouring canoes, &c. In another cave may be seen specks of mica, mistaken by the Maoris for gold in the early days of gold-discoveries. About a mile south of the Heads is a mussel-reef, the scene of many a severe fight between the Ngati-Tama and the Ngati-Maniapoto Natives. Growing near the Heads are groves of the historical Tainui trees {Pomaderris apetala) which are said to have sprung from the rollers, skids, and flooring of the great canoe " Tainui," which brought some of the ancestors of the present Maori race to Kawhia, whence some of them afterwards settled at Tongaporutu, Mokau, and Awakino. It is only near Mokau and Kawhia that the tree grows in New Zealand, it having been discovered by Sir James Hector in 1878. Half a mile from the Heads, and a little off the fairway, is a curiously shaped sandstone rock to which the " Tainui " canoe is supposed to have been moored when the Maoris first came to Mokau. On the riverbank, at the present Maori settlement of Te Kauri, may be seen an old totara-tree trunk, supposed to have drifted from Kawhia, and to have been deposited by an unsually high tide at this place. It was made tapu, or sacred, by the Maoris, and has always been regarded with reverence, evil having been said to have happened to any rash person who interfered with it. On a small hill overlooking the township, originally called Puke-kiwi (or Kiwi Hill) and now known as Maungapakeha (or the Stranger's Hill) the early missionaries erected a church, and in the adjoining churchyard are buried Takerei and many hereditary chiefs of Ngati-Rakei and other branches of the Ngati-Maniapoto, amongst them being also the first Native missionary who came to Taranaki. This was Hamuera (or Samuel), a Maori educated by Bishop Williams at the Bay of Islands, who was sent by the Bishop to Mokau, where he did good work, but through domestic unhappiness finally committed suicide, and was buried here by order of the then chief. At the back of this hill may be seen the ruins of an old mill established before

* Revised by S. Percy Smith, Esq., E.R.G.S., New Plymouth.

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\W. A. Collis, phott

Eighteen Miles up the Mokau River.

To face -p. IS.]

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Twenty-one Miles up the Mokau River.

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the Maori war in 1860, and on the site—Tokomaru—a number of grape-vines now grow. From the top of the low range of hills running parallel with the coast can be obtained a remarkably fine view of the north Taranaki coast-line, even Paritutu being visible on a clear day, whilst Mount Egmont shows its majestic head in lonely grandeur in the far distance. In the good old days two Maori tribes lived near Mokau Heads. The Ngati-Tama of Poutama dwelt on the south side of the river, with boundaries extending to a couple of miles south of the White Cliffs, and the Ngati-Maniapoto and their minor branches on the north side, and, as may easily be imagined, tribal fights were frequent, and often on apparently inadequate grounds. On one occasion (supposed to be about seventy-five years ago) some of the Ngati-Maniapoto were fishing at the Heads in a small canoe, and caugfct a large schnapper. Coming back with their catch, just inside the bar, they saw some of the Ngati-Tama watching them, and in defiance held up, for them to see, the large fish they had just caught. This was at a point now called Ture (the Place of the Law). The Ngati-Tama immediately claimed possession of the fish, as it was caught within their tribal waters ; but the NgatiManiapoto resumed their paddling up the river for about half a mile, when they rested at a place now called Te To, where the Ngati-Tama once more claimed possession of the schnapper. This was again refused, and the Ngati-Tama, continuing their paddling, reached a third place, half a mile further on, where they landed, and hung up their catch of fish to dry and be cured. This place is called Te Rainga. This and other incidents led to the siege of the Ngati-Maniapoto on a small island situated in the river about a mile and a half from the mouth, know as Motu-tawa, an account of which is given from the " Journal of the Polynesian Society," Vol. xvii as follows. The following account was'j written previously by Mr. S. Percy Smith, and supplies a most interesting history of the principal occurrences in the district:— After the great expedition of Ngati-Haua and other tribes, which came to Pou-tama to seek revenge for the death of Tai-porutu had been hurled back by the bravery of Ngati-Tama, there was apparently a transient peace or truce between the latter tribe and their northern neighbours at Mokau for some ten or twelve years. At any rate, no incident has come to our knowledge marking that period, though, no doubt, the enmity in which these tribes had lived for so many generations would not allow of any available chance of striking a blow to be passed over. But there were no great expeditions, and both sides would, no doubt, be glad of a few years' rest in order that the boys should grow to maturity and be trained as warriors. But about the year 1812 (so far as can be ascertained) hostilities set in again through an act of brutality on the part of Ngati-Tama whilst on a visit to Motu-tawa. Motu-tawa is a pretty little island situated in a deep bay in the Mokau River, about three-quarters of a mile within the Heads on the northern shore, now covered with bushes and small trees. It is about half an acre in extent, with cliffs nearly all round, rising up from the waters to about fifty or sixty feet, but not equally steep on all sides. At low water the bay is dry, but as the tide rises it surrounds the island to a depth of perhaps four to six feet of water. On the flat top of this island in former days was built a strong palisaded and embanked pa, the refuge and stronghold of the Mokau people. On one side is a convenient spring of fresh water. Ngati-Tama were apparently on such terms with the Mokau people about this time that they were admitted into tile pa and were hospitably feasted, but at the same time my informant (old Bihari, of Mokau) says that they were on a taua. What the exact circumstances were are not of much consequence. But during the feasts two boys of the pa, named Pitonga and Nga-whakarewa-kauri, helped themselves to the food provided and set apart for Ngati-Tama. They were reproved for this, but again repeated the offence. This roused the wrath of Ngati-Tama, who—probably seeking a take, or cause, against the pa, and seeing here their chance—knocked the unfortunate boys on the head. There was an immediate rush to arms, and a desperate fight commenced between the two parties. But it was not of long duration : Ngati-Tama drove their hosts pell-mell out of the pa, and took possession of it. The parents of the boys, together with the whole of Ngati-Rakei of those parts, fled with the utmost expedition to the forest which even to this day lines the shores of the little bay in which Motu-tawa is situated, and gradually made their way through the country to Otorohanga in the Waipa Valley—now a station on the Main Trunk Railway—to join some of their relatives there. Here the people settled down for some three years, not daring to return to their own country at Mokau, which was in occasional occupation of Ngati-Tama and some of the Ati-Awa tribes. The exiles dwelt amongst their friends at Otorohanga, as has been said, for about three years, cultivating on the lands of others as manene, or strangers, and feeling generally uncomfortable through this fact. When the strong westerly winds used to blow from the coast the old people would listen to the far-distant sound of the breakers dashing on the shore —which they could hear from the ranges not far from Otorohanga —and sniff the salt-laden breezes of of their old home. Then the people would greet and lament over the misfortunes which had taken them so far from their beloved homes. This feeling became so strong at last that the chiefs consulted together, and determined to attempt the reconquest of their lands and homes. Te Wharau-roa, who at that time was the leader of Ngati-Rakei, Ngati-Hia, and other Mokau hapus, raised a war party from those tribes, and started from Otorohanga on their long and risky journey. They came up the Mangapapa Valley and by Te Ana-uriuri on the Waipa-Mokau water-parting, and thence to the head of the Mokau, and down that river by canoes to Te Mahoe, a bend in the river some two miles from the mouth. Here the party went into camp, carefully concealing all signs of smoke, &c, whilst spies were sent out to see where the Ngati-Tama were. They returned, and reported that the enemy was all over the country at the mouth of the river, and along the coast southward, but that the principal number were gathered at a village they had built about half-way between Mokau and Mokaka-tino. A council was then held to consider how the war-party might reach this village without being seen, and finally a plan was adopted. Starting at dawn one morning, they crossed the river, and concealed their canoes in the little creeks just opposite Te Mahoe, and from there climbed the steep forest range which leads up to the high hill named Tawariki, on which there is now a trig, station. From here they followed the ridges that run parallel to the coast until they came out at the Mohaka-tino River, about a mile from its mouth. The party was now between Ngati-Tama and any succour they might receive from their own people to the south. Arrived at the sea-beach, Wharau-roa instructed all his party to trail their spears and other arms along the sands, with one end fastened to their ankles by a flax string. The party now advanced along the beach in careless order, some shouting, some singing, some skidding flat stones along the wet sands, all of which was done to make Ngati-Tama think it was a party of their friends from the south coming to visit them. The war-party was 140 topu (i.e., 280) strong, whilst the Ngati-Tama and Ati-Awa were said to be more numerous. As they drew near the. village many of the women, children, and some of the men came down to the beach to meet the visitors. When Wharau-roa saw the time was come he gave the signal, and in an instant the spears were seized and a charge made into the unsuspecting Ngati-Tama, all of whom were killed. The rest of Ngati-Tama in the village, seeing what was going on, armed and rushed down the beach to meet the foe. Here, on the beach, these ancient enemies fought it out, it is said, during two flood tides—hence the name of the battle, Nga-tai-pari-rua (the Twice-flowing Tide). No doubt there is some truth in the story, or the name would not have been given. The end of the fight saw NgatiRakei and their allies victorious for once over Ngati-Tama, who, after losing a large number of men, were obliged to retreat. They fell back on their impregnable stronghold, Te Kawau, where they were safe. The Mokau people went on and occupied their old homes on the river, greatly to their delight, says my informant, and he adds, " The Mokau people have to thank my grandfather Te Wharau-roa for saving their country for them."

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This siege of Motu-tawa referred to above is not the only one that has occurred: after the defeat of the great Waikato army at Nga-motu (Otaka, near the Sugarloaves) in which, however, the Ati-Awa and allied tribes suffered considerably, these tribes, to square accounts wfth Waikato and Ngati-Maniapoto, sent a strong tana against the Mokau people, who retired to their island-fortress of Motu-tawa, where they were besieged. Owing to a split in. the council of the invaders, the siege was finally abandoned after a good deal of fighting had taken place, in which both sides suffered. This was early in 1832, and shortly after the return of the Ati-Awa forces the bulk of them migrated to Port Nicholson. The following account of Motu-tawa, by Mr. James Cowan, conveys a good idea of the beauty of the island : " Motu-tawa covers about two or three acres, and in thickly clothed with beautiful native vegetation. For most of its circumference it is protected by bold banks, whick formed part of its defences in the old Maori fighting-days, when the island was a stong fa of the Ngati-Maniapoto Tribe. On the northern side its slopes are covered with fine groves of karaka, mangeao, and rewarewa, with ponga tree-ferns. There are high parapets on this side overgrown with flax, koromiko, &c, and the flat top of the island is thick with old food-pits and remains of whares. On the beach the stumps of the ancient totara palisade-posts are still to be seen. On the side facing Mokau Township, there is a pretty little rock grotto overhung with ferns, sheltering a never-failing spring of fresh water, known to the Maoris as Te Ara-paopao. It was this spring that generations ago enabled the Ngati-Maniapoto people, when besieged there, to hold out for many months against their enemies from Taranaki, when otherwise they would have been forced to surrender through thirst. It was an almost impregnable stronghold in the days of intertribal warfare. At the present time it is regarded as semi-sacred by the Maoris, being a former burial-place of the Natives." Up the River. Starting up the river to view the scenery, the first place of interest is Mahoe, on the right bank (from the source), where the Wesleyan missionaries founded a school in which the Maori children were taught to read and write, and to make mats, ropes, baskets, and other useful articles. A. cherry-grove how marks the site of the old school. A little more than three miles from the mouth is the Rangiohua cliff, overlooking the river, at the end of a short ridge. The first fa of the district was said to have been erected here by the original occupants of the country as a protection against the invading Maoris from Hawaiki. As so often occurs in the traditions relating to the dim past, the marvellous enters into the account of the manner in which this tangata-uhenua (or original people) escaped from Rangiohua. Being hard pressed by the more forceful people of Hawaiki, and seeing that the Pα Rangiohua was bound to fall in the end, the inhabitants escaped by an underground passage, and came out at a very great distance from their homes—indeed, some say on the east coast. Probably there is some foundation for the story, and the people might well have got away by a passage only known to themselves, and this feat in time has become mixed up with the subsequent wanderings of the defeated people. The promontory on the opposite bank contains some very pretty bush, and as the river winds round it the visitor will get a very good idea of the scenery he may expect during the trip. The river here winds in the shape of the letter S, and a corresponding promontory on the other bank is immediately met with. Low ridges of hills confine the valley, and from the tops down to the water's edge a thick vegetation terminating in native sedge meets the sight. Five miles up an outcrop of limestone on the left bank is seen, and, though it has not yet been worked to advantage, it will probably be much availed of in the future, when settlement increases in the district. A. little above the limestone-outcrop, on the small plateau at the top of the range overlooking the river, is situated an ancient burial-ground of the Maoris. Reaching the 6-miles distance from the mouth, it will be noticed that the river by this time has considerably narrowed—from a width of over half a mile to about 200 ft. Turning round another small bend, the Moango clearing is seen on the right bank, and, although a distance of only about half a mile by crossing the peninsula here separates the river from its channel further up stream, it takes four miles by water to arrive at the same point. This old clearing, with four miles of water frontage, is said to have been worked for timber during the Maori war, and is now well suited for farming purposes. Coming round the Moanga bend, the Tawariki clearing is seen on the further side, and immediately beyond is Greenaway's old sawmill and clearing. Corresponding to the Moango bend is a smaller one named Kapuitaruke, three miles in length. On the left bank, and forming the outer ridge of the semicircle, on the opposite side, is a fine range of hills covered with red-beech, terminating in Puke-whero (" the red hill"). From the sth mile up to the Mangaawakino Valley, 17 miles up, runs one continuous belt of native forest, covering the right bank in beautiful vegetation, and forming a magnificent sight to visitors. With the exception of a few possible road-routes to the back country, the whole of this land should be reserved, as it is admirably fitted for scenic reservation, but is not very well adapted for farming or milling purposes. At the 13th mile, on the left bank, is a fine sandstone bluff about 50 ft. high, and on the opposite bank is the site of the old Taurangatoitoi Pα, traces of the extensive cultivations which used to surround it being still visible. On the high hills at the back of the sandstone bluff are some old burial-places of the Natives. Fifteen miles up, Rothery's old sawmill is reached, at the mouth of the Totara Stream, the land surrounding it being flat or undulating, and fairly well fitted for settlement; and a mile and a half further on is Kelly's sawmill. Bordering the river at the 17th mile is the Torea Range, and running past one side of it is the Manga-awakino Valley and the Torea clearing, in which is placed Dive's new sawmill. The timber up the valley is much superior to that seen on the banks, and, as the country opens out slightly, access to the back land is practicable. Soon after passing the mill the boundary of the Mokau Coalmines Company's leasehold is reached, and, though some of the land fronting the river is fairly flat, the hills at the back are only suitable for reservation. At the 19th mile some rocks fallen into the

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stream from the adjacent bank are noticeable, and are the favourite resting-places for numbers of seagulls and other birds, the rocks being called by the Maoris " Kowhatu-tutae." The country bordering the river is now more rugged in character than heretofore, and the scenery improves in consequence, owing to the forest being shown to better advantage. At the 21st mile, the Manga-tawa rapids are met with, although it is only at low water that they present much difficulty. On the left bank a kiln has been erected to work the lime-deposits in the vicinity. Between the 22nd and 23rd miles is the beautiful Mangatawa Reach, and the river then turns sharply round to the left, rendering navigation somewhat awkward for steamers. Owing to this cause, the s.s. " Tainui" struck a sunken ledge of rock in 1907 and broke ofi her propeller, an involuntary stoppage and mooring at the place for three weeks being thereby necessitated. Among the hills, which here attain to a height of 200 ft. on the left bank, is the site of an old pa, admirably adapted for defence and outlook. At the 24th mile is to be seen the trunk of a red-beech tree which has fallen from the cliff into the river, and now remains firmly resting in the river's bed, but with its base still attached to the cliff. This tree is locally known as the Black Rock, and two fern-covered rocks close by are called by the Maoris " Nga-tamariki-o-Tumaru (the sons of Tumaru), the legend being that many years ago an exploring party from the Ngati-Maniapoto Tribe, headed by a chief called Tumaru, whilst paddling down the river found two newly born twin boys lying exposed on a rock, and as no other persons could be found in the vicinity, Tumaru took the boys and adopted them. At the 25th mile may be seen an old landslip from the right bank, which by the action of the current is now formed into an island ; and, half a mile beyond, the well-known coal-mines appear, they being only fifty yards from the stream, at the base of the slopes of a low ridge of hills, the cliff-faces of which show white amid the bush and scrub. The Mangapapa Mine, as the workings at this place are called, is one of the safest and most easily worked mines in the world. Naked lights have always been in use throughout the mine, and no accident has occurred throughout the twenty-five years the mine has been in existence. The seam of coal tapped by the mine is about 8 ft. thick, separated in the middle by impure beds of fireclay, and the drive has an easy gradient of about 1 in 10, which enables the coal to be run out by gravitation, whilst the sandstone roof dispenses with much of the timbering usually required. The coal is described as consisting of two qualities, the upper seam being superior lignite and the lower bright bituminous coal of superior quality, both igniting easily, giving off little gas, burning with a bright flame, and leaving a very small amount of white pulverulent ash, whilst the quantity is considered practically inexhaustible. These particulars are gathered from the Mining Handbook of 1906. Soon after leaving the Mangapapa Mine, the Manga-kawhia Creek discharges itself into the river on the right bank. Although the stream looks small from the river, yet its channel and valley is of much greater size farther back, and it drains a large extent of country. Nearly opposite the creek is a rapid, and at the end of a short straight is the Manga-toi Stream (on the right bank) at the foot of a short range of hills, which force the river to wind westward to circumvent them. The hills are about 500 ft. high from the water's edge, and the surrounding country is too steep for settlement. Turning the sharp bend, another range of hills about 700 ft. high is seen on the opposite bank, and a fine reach of over half a mile leads to the Manga-pohue Stream, on the left bank. The river here turns to. the east, and on the right bank, at the 28th mile, a pretty little waterfall about 30 ft. high is seen, the first one on the river's bank since leaving Mokau Township. Half a mile further on is a second waterfall about 40 ft. high, on the same side of the river. The scenery here is very fine, continuous ridges of hills running down from the back ranges to the river's edge, and between them many little streams with fern- and bush-clothed banks are seen disappearing into the belt of forest which covers all this country. Between the 29th and 30th miles is a fine cascade on the right bank, about 90 ft. high, the cliffs on either side rising to about 200 ft. Beyond the 30th mile the direction of the river changes to northeast, and a long series of rapids and rocky gorges renders the stream difficult for navigation except in canoes, whilst a considerable amount of snagging is required to improve the channel. The famous Panirau rapid is reached at the 31st mile, and the visitor may here pause to view the surrounding scenery with close attention. Undoubtedly this is one of the most attractive portions of the Mokau River, as its charms are shown off to full advantage by the character of the country and the innumerable diversity in the general colour-scheme, the changing lights and shadows among the vivid forest-growth, the bewildering tints of green to be descried in the wealth of ferns, nikaus, young plants, older forest giants, and the frequent carpet of native sedge ; the varied hues of the winding river, ranging from the dazzling foam of the successive rapids to the dark translucency of the placid reaches, which reflect on their shining mirror the fern-clad banks and wooded ridges, whilst above all a summer sky of purest azure, only broken by the occasional passages of fleecy white clouds, makes the sight of the Mokau on a fine day an experience never to be surpassed. One appears to be in the midst of unspoilt nature and limitless verdure. As far as the sight can reach, an evergreen forest stretches in an unbroken covering over the undulating hills and steeper ranges, and down the valley of this fascinating region flows a river rich in legendary lore, and serving as a gateway to a scenic paradise. The following description by Mr. James Cowan, Department of Tourist and Health Resorts, gives a very good idea of the scenery further up the river :— The Mokau River above Panirau Rapids. " Panirau, on the Upper Mokau, is an uncommonly beautiful spot. Here the river, after sweeping round in a sharp bend just where the Panirau Stream joins it (left bank), roars down in a long rapid, or series of rapids, which form the most serious obstacle to navigation on the whole course of the river. ' Panj-rau ' means ' many orphans ' : it is an allusion to the dangerous character of this part of the

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river, and to the frequent canoe-capsizes and drowning accidents here in former times, when the Mokau was a much-used channel of Maori canoe traffic. At the head of the rapids is a small island, which is a convenient camping-ground for canoe-crews, unless the river is very high. The Panirau Creek enters the Mokau close to the island, flowing in through a narrow gorge between two lofty tree-shadowed banks. This stream in ancient days was the route taken by war-parties bound for the Ohura Valley and the upper Wanganui. The cliff and mountain scenery here is very wild and bold. On either side of the rapid-whitened Mokau the great ranges rise steeply for about a thousand feet, clothed with forest to the sky-line ; and just above the rapids, in the bend, the river flows through a narrow gorge where every sign of rock and soil is hidden by densely growing timber, ancient trees covered with moss and kiekie, and every crevice is filled with beautiful ferns. " Just above the great bend there is a splendid smooth reach, with the Ranga-a-Waitara forested range rising precipitously, a razor-baoked wall, on the right-hand side. Then more rapids are breasted, the Otukihi, where the obstructions are rocks, not snags, and where the water curls in glassy curves and waves over slippery rounded boulders. These rapids bore a reputation of dread amongst the Maoris. Two of the children of the King-country chief Tawhana were drowned here by the capsize of a canoe. In this part the river is strewn with mossy boulders ;on these rocks piharau, or lampreys, are often found after floods. " About half a mile beyond Otukihi are the Mahuenui rapids, where the river pours down over rough boulders —a dangerous spot for canoes. Poling up this swift run, we soon come to another rapid, the Turanga-a-Pou, which was evidently caused by a heavy slip from the banks. A good deal of snagging is required here. The ranges on either side of the Mokau now lessen in height, but the river retains its gorgy character. Between the several rapids there are long, still, calm reaches, overhung by forest trees of large size, hung with creepers and mosses. Two more rapids, the Mahue-iti and Mangatakiora, are within half a mile of each other : both are swift glassy runs over rocky obstructions and sunken logs. The little Mangatakiora Stream comes in here on our left. Presently there are signs of civilisation again, a welcome break after the great solitudes of the forest. At the Matai bend we come upon a pioneer settler's home, Riddell's clearing, a very lovely spot. There is now a succession of rapids to be overcome—the Matai, the long run of the Tahu-mataroa, the boulder-strewn Aroarohaki, and the Mangaharakeke (Flax Creek), named after a small stream which here joins the river. The banks here are low and well wooded ; tawa and miro are the predominating timber. Shrubs and fern bend over the banks beneath the large trees, and the reflections in the still clear reaches are marvellously beautiful. Bird-life is plentiful; wild pigeons and tui are frequently seen feeding on the miro and kowhai trees along the banks. " At Whakapapa and Kawakawa, about forty miles from the sea, the forest gives place to manuka and high fern and shrubby vegetation ; the soil here is evidently very rich, and should make the best of farming land. Several small rapids are encountered ;Te Poko and Iwitu are the principal. Here we had to get out and haul our canoe up over the shallows. The runs are not swift, but in summertime the depth of water is so small that launches would have considerable difficulty unless the methods of navigation adopted on the Wanganui are introduced here. "At Kaiwaka, a short distance below Totoro, there are to be seen the remains of a very large pa-tuna, or eel-weir, built of stout manuka stakes driven into the river-bed. This fa was constructed about five years ago by Te Rangituataka, the highest chief of the Ngati-Maniapoto Tribe, and brother to the late celebrated Wetere to Rerenga, of Mokau Heads. Rangi had this pa erected in the expectation of making a big haul' of the silvery eels which abound here in March and April for a great tribal feast; but a flood swept half of the weir away, and the old chief interpreted this as a tohu-aitua or omen of death or misfortune to himself, and not long afterwards he died at his home at Mahoenui. " The European settlement at Mahoenui, on the Awakino - Te Kuiti Road, is about two miles from the canoe-landing at Kaiwaka, and no doubt this landing will be found a more convenient terminus for the river traffic than Totoro, a mile or so higher up the Mokau."

Approximate Cost of Paper. —Preparation, not given ; printing, 1,500 copies (including maps and illustrations), £48 2s. 6d.

Authority : John Mackat, Government Printer, Wellington.—l9o9.

Price Is. 3d.]

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Near the Mangapapa Coal-mine, Mokau River.

[W. A. Collis, photo.

To face p. 16.~\

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[F. A. Oollis, -photo.

Twenty-six Miles up the Mokau River.

O.—G.

Twenty-nine Miles up the Mokau River.

[W. A. Collis, photo

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