LIFE IN NEW GUINEA.

Waikato Times, Volume 110, Issue 18407, 14 August 1931, Page 4

LIFE IN NEW GUINEA.

ROTARY CLUB ADDRESS. TIMARU MAN'S EXPERIENCES. The speaker at the last weekly luncheon of the Timaru Rotary Club was Rotarian W. I. Tait, who gave the impressions of his brother (Mr Ivan Tait), formerly of Timaru, and now of New Guinea. Mr Tait commenced with a geographical outline of New Guinea, dnd went on to give a story of his brother's impressions from the time he left Melbourne till he reached Samara!, Papua. Samarai, he said, was a most enchanting spot, set on an island about 52 acres in extent. The population consisted of about 50 Europeans and about 500 natives, all of whom were congregated on the whai«f to witness the arrival of the steamer. The road which encircled the Island was beautifully paved and lined with palms and ferns, tropical shrubs and trees of every variety and colour. All the way there was the open sea before one, dotted with many islands, each different from the rest, but all of a hilly nature, and clothed by dense foliage and fringed by tropical palms. Along this road one passed the business quar-ter-sundry trading stores and warehouses, a hotel or two. a church, a prison, the native compound, and then a hospital. The residences were enchanting little bungalows, built upon pillars to ward off ants and land-crabs. A feast of colour was provided in the gardens packed with Howers and shrubs, which gave forth an atmosphere of coolness and of rest. The residents mostly lived out of doors, and their verandahs were their living rooms, furnished in the same manner as one might equip a drawing-room. Savages In the Hills.

Before dusk fell the ship passed out of sight of Samara!, and was sailing past myriads of islands, all of which had a wonderful attraction, and showed signs of habitation. The following afternoon Rabaul was sighted, and one saw a ragged coastline, virgin bush and again high-topped mountains in the background. Fellow-passengers who know the country mentioned that behind those hills lived tribes of primitive savages who hungered for the taste of human flesh, and that it was certain death to any man who dared to enter. Rabaul was a very scattered town, consisting of about 500 whites of various nationalities, about 1000 Chinese, and thousands of Kanakas. It was the seat of government of the -Mandate, and the Administrator (General Wisdom) was in residence there. The streets were very Bftractixe. Class distinction was very much in evidence. Sport was in abundance, while there were plenty of good motoring roads, which, however, would not take one very far before they became impassable. The road to Kokop, the former seat of government, was surely the road to paradise —2O miles of palm-studded avenue, low hills covered in dense evergreen bush on one side, the blue waters of Rabaul harbour and the Blue Lagoon on the oilier.

Ono couin lake a car to Tulllligap, continued Mr Tait, and after a run of two hours a German mission station was reached, situated at an altitude of some 2000 feet. The German Fathers of the Mission took a pride in exhibiting their beautiful gardens, the Interior of their church and retreat, and told in a quaint manner their experiences in the days of old when only the venturesome would dare go to Rabaul. They spoke of sundry little murders and cannibalistic feasts, and pointed with pride to their native converts who were everywhere about the mission—boys strong in physique, clean, bright, happy and intelligent. They taught their boys reading and writing, sewing and woodwork; to be clean in mind and body, and to respect the white master. When they were not busy attending to their extensive copra plantations which brought them in much profit, they instilled religion into the boys. Chinatown was another very interesting part of Rabaul. Lack of Romance. Quoting his brother’s letter, Mr Tait said. As far as life in Rabaul is concerned, I can say that if you are looking for romance you will be disappointed. The romance of Rabaul, if, there ever was romance, has been swallowed up by commercialism and population. There is the same office i online, the same discipline, the same rules and laws to which you were used and influenced by in your own home town. People rush by in motor cars and wear fine clothes; go to golf, tennis or cricket, have their bridge, or a night at the pictures, and occasionally a dance. Some go to their clubs, some stay at home, some spend the night at the ‘house drink’ (hotel) which is open always till 11 o’clock eacli night. Home life is a little different. The houses are built to allow of an abundance of frcsli air. • • • I reckon I've exhausted all that I remcmebcr about Rabaul. I think of it now as a land of trees and palms, of fine dresses and parasols and niggers—the usual hum-drum life of commerce. When I compare it with the life I lived before, I find there’s mighty little difference, only the constant heat and the change in language.’’ Brush With Head-hunters. Mr Tait went on to speak of Salamoa—“port of adventure of the new Eldorado —his brother’s home, where he had now been resident, about five months. 1 here he had been marooned on a sandy beach with a community of some fifty Europeans, visited only once a month by the regular steamer service, which brought to the township round-trippers whom one envied. In the nills at the back of Salamoa prospectors were delving for gold, and primitive savages lurked thirsting for the taste of human blood. "A few minutes ago I was talking to a man who can give positive proof of the existence of savage head-hunters in the near vicinity of Salamoa. for lie, with j his two partners, arrived in town yesterday, hearing only too realistic evid- | once of an encounter with the natives! —a spear wound on the check, and one i on the shoulder; a very sore head, the result of lining hit over the head with a pineapple club—while some of his boys had spear wounds in the legs." it appeared that this man with his comrades had settled down for the nigh! in what appeared to be a peaceful uninhabited spot in the upper readies of the W.iluh River. Only one native had been seen during the uay. and unfortunately the party gave very little thought to him. In the very early hours of the morning they were disturbed by a commotion outside the tents, and Hie leader was stunned '

by a terrific blow delivered from outside. The use of revolvers warded off the savages, and the party were able to make for civilisation and safety. “Blaokblrdlng.” The business of the Islands, continued Mr Tait, was the buying and selling of commodities one never heard of In other lands—trade meats, trade biscuits, mat rice, trade blankets—all of it food and clothing for the native labourer—trade axes, trade knives, pick-axes and other implements which served to remind one of the days of barter. The prospectors placed their orders, and the firms kept the native workers In sustenance until gold was struck, and then down came a cigarette or similar tin filled with the prectous metal, which was forwarded to Melbourne for account sales. Another Interesting business was the financing of licensed recruiters. They were provided with supplies to cover them over a period of three or foiik months, and then sailed in their schooners for the outports to obtain recruits. The business of recruiting was, bluntly speaking, just a legalised form of "blackbirding.’' It was simply a trafficking in human souls. A recruiter left Salamoa with orders from various firms and private individuals to secure native labour. They offer to supply these boys at a certain quote (generally £7 per head f.0.b.). The recruiter poked about the remote villages and made himself popular with the villagers by distributing gratis some of his trading products. By this way they were recruited into service, glorious prospects for their future being painted. The hook was baited, the line was cast, and so the fish were caught. A cargo of ninety boys at £7 per head was not a bad turnover for three months' work. The welfare of the natives received a good deal of consideration from the Administration, and the contract in regard to wages must be kept. Quite recently a man was sentenced to six months' Imprisonment for failing to pay his wages to his natives.