WONDERFUL WELLINGTON.

Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume LXI, Issue 9698, 1 November 1909, Page 6

WONDERFUL WELLINGTON.

THE CITY OF TO-MORROW. A MASTERTONIAN'S IMPRESSIONS.

(By F. J. R). Exactly ten years ago I paid my first visit—a lengthy one—to Wellington, and, with the exception of a few hours on my way to Sydney a month or so ago, I had never been in the Empire City since. And, what is more, I had never wished to be, for if ever there was a Dlace I abhorred, it was Wellington." However, all that is changed now, and it is well it should be, for more than one reasou. On my way to the Harbour City, having, as 1 have indicated, a little time on hand, and having, moreover, a large amount of business—so common to every traveller —to attend to, I coula gain nothing more than a cursory glance at the city and its euvirous. I made up my mind, therefore, that when I returned I would "do" Wellington properly. After speudiug au enjoyable holiday in the New South Wales capital, I took train to Melbourne, and there caught the steamer that was to leave for Wellington, via Hobart, the Bluff aud Dunediu, for, be sure, I had made up my mind to render the trip as enjoyable as possible. Melbourne impressed me immensely —much more so than did the Queen City, aud that is saying a good deal. However, as I do not intend to wander from my subject, I will say nothing more of the Australian cities further than that if I were asked my opinion I would certainly give the palm to Melbourne, notwithstanding Sydney's magnificent harbour. ENTERING THE HARBOUR. And now the fine U.S.S. Company's steamer is nearing Pencarrow, aud I can Hardly restrain myself, so excited am I to reach the city, for two reasons First. lam anxious to "have a look" at Wellington, aud compare it with what I have seen; and, second, I know that withiu a short time after lauding I shall be back at what, to me, is the dearest place on earth—home. Needless to say, I was up on deck, for the weather, although squally, with a choppy sea, had little effect on me : and I am thankful too, especially when I remember what I nave wituessed both on the outward and return journeys. We are now making np the long narrow entrance, which is exceedingly puzzling to a number of passengers, for they are all wondering where the city lies (I confess I am rather "mixed" myself); but, before 1 can realise the fact, we have rounded the bend, aud are going "full steam ahead" ud the truly splendid harbour of Port "Nicholson, which, as far as commercial matters are concerned, may challenge the world. "Fine harbour," remarked a passenger to me as I leant over the rails, noting the changes everywhere iv evidence. " Yes," I replied, "it's a splendid harbour, this." "Tell you what," he said, by way of reply; "it puts me iv iniud of Naples; by gad ! the city and all— they're very much alike." I hay« never beeu in Naples, sol am unable to endorse his remarks, bnt I may say that that was not the first time I had heard such a statement made. TWO PORTS. The difference between Wellington and Sidney Harbours may be likened to the disparity commonly said to exist between chalk and cheeso. Not that Wellington Harbour has no beauty—far from it. Indeed Wellington Harbour, to my idea, is very beautiful—strangely beautiful. It has a beauty all its own, which shows np to advantage on a fine morniug lifce this. The "Prettiest Harbour in the World" is one mass of inlets—all curves and bends as it were—aud one cannot see a thing until lie is right within it. Wellington Harbour is just the reverse; it is one vast sheet of water, and, although I freely admit it does not possess the b6auty of Sydney Harbour, still, it has a singular charm. Of course, there are not the number of resorts around it that one finds contiguous to Sydney; but what is that to the business man and the workine man? After all, business is the main thing aud —as I have previously had occasion to say before, and repeat now—commercially (I refer to depth of water, wharfage accommodation, etc.), Wellington Harbour bids fair to hold its own against all others. The wharves are certainly the best I have seen in Australasia—a fact which I notice as the steamer glides slowly up to the splendid Queen's Wharf. Anotherthiug that strikes me—and it pleases "me greatly—is the way in which the wharves are kept. Notwithstanding that they are piled with cargo —to-day must be au extra heavy shipping day, as nearly every berth is occupied—they are beautifully clean, and everything is in order. One doesu't find things littered everywhere as is the case in the Australian cities—Sydney especially—which I visited. There is another matter I may refer to while on the subject, and that is, that the objectionable practice of hotel porters aud expressmen of soliciting custom in their noisy fashion, has been done away with by the Harbour Board. What a pity it is that a few more harbour boards do not take a leaf out of the Wellington Board's book. Although the wharf is crowded with vehicles of all descriptions, there is no noise or fn^-—every-thing is done quietly, bu~. quickly, which is as it should be. i he Wellington wharves are suppo cd to be not only the best equipped md most up-to-date in the Southeiu Hemisphere, but equal to any in the world. Well, of that I know nothing, and, therefore, can say nothing. I am only repeating what has been told me by men of travel—not Wellingtonians by the way; but after visiting many ports m New Zealand and Australia, will certainly give the palm to Wellington. THE EMPIRE CITY. And now I will turn my attention to the city itself. Before I commence, however, I wish my readers to clearly understand that my world does not extend beyond Australia; and what comparisons I make will be confined to cities within that area. As I leave the wharf, I notice Hiat the city has altered considerably, although not as much as I had expeoted, having heard so much about Wellington's progress, and I was a irifle disappointed. But as I walk across Greystreet, and turn into Larnbton Quay, I am astounded at the progress that has been made in what, after ail, is but a comparatively short time. I know

the electric cars and the wood-paving of the streets have made a difference, but they do uot account for all. New buildings have sprung up everywhere—in fact, the whole face of the street is altered. I walk up the Quay towaids the well-remembered "Byko" corner and am almost staggered ac the chauge. Why, I do uot recognise the surroundings, and am quite "at sea" as to my wherebouts. The old "Byko" building is uo more, aud in its place stands the splendid and commodious "King's Chambers" building, rearing itself six or seven storeys into the air and forming what is undoubtedly one of the uiost handsome corners in the city. Opposite is the up-to-date Grand Hotel, where formerly stood the old Western. This building is the most modern of its bind in New Zealand. It stands 115 feet high from pavement to pediment, excluding a roof conservatory, aud cooking and grill rooms at the back, which latter account for two more storeys, making no less than nine in all—far too high, in my opinion, especially in a country liable to earthquakes. However, i was pleased to hear that the (Jity Council—ever to the fore— has restricted the height of buildings within the city boundary. STREET IMPROVEMENTS. I must confess I was not satisfied with the appearance of Willis-street— especially when I remember the tine thoroughfares of George and Pittstreets, Sydney. Collins-street, Melbourne, Macquarrie-street, Hobart, and Wellington's own Lambton Quay. However the street has improved, and to a greater extent than I at first imagined; but, owiug to the streetwidening operations, all new buildings have been erected a certain distance back from the roadway, and are thus hidden by the still-standing old ones. After all, though, it is a blessing in disguise, for, as I walk along aud note the many really splendid erections—the Hotel Windsor, with its solid marble pillars, for example— I ttiink to myself what a line thoroughfare Willis-street will be when the widening operations are completed. And that raises the question— "When?" It will be a]loug time, certainly, for it is a costly undertaking, running into some hundreds of thousands of pounds; but arrangements have just been completed between the City Council and one large firm for the setting back of the latter's premises, which, when accomplished, will extend tho widened area to Mer-cer-street. I find myself in Mannersstreet —dirty Manners-street, the same as of yore, but very slightly improved (as far as new buildings are concerned) which hurts me greatly, for I had expected to see radical changes in this particular thoroughfare. But as I turn into crowded Cuba-street the marvellous development that has taken place in the Te Aro end of the city strikes the eye at once. Cuba-street is not the Cubastreet I remember ten years ago. Of course a number of the old buildings still stand, but so many new ones have beeu erected that the street seems altered beyond recognition. Especially noticeable is this on the left hand side as one walks up iroru the Royal Oak corner. From Mannersstreet to Ghuznee-street (fully half the length of the thoroughfare) I think I saw but two buildings which looked in any way old ; all the others had the appearance of having been erected within the last few years. I stop aud ask a poHcetuau where I will catch an Island Bay car, aud he tells me I must go to the Courtenayplace terminus. Shortly I find myself walking along a street which, in my opinion, will be the hub of Wellington in a very few years. Here, more than anywhere else, are the great changes noticeable. Buildings, buildings, aud ever more buildings have sprung up until the one-time mediocre residential locality has been converted into a busy aud imposing business thoroughfare. After all, though, I am not surprised, for as I wander along my way and see streets that I remembered as residential thoroughfares of the poorest order (I refer to Allen aud Blair-streets and Victoriastreet east, now packed with sucli buildings as those of the Fruit aud Vegetable Markets, and the warehouses of Messrs Laery aud Co.. and Messrs Nelson, Moate and Co.), I begin to wonder if tho greatest is yet to come. Verily 1 should like to see this place in twenty years' time. CHANGED SURROUNDINGS. For the last two or three minutes I have been gazing in one of the very numerous post-card s!iops that are everywhere in evidence in these streets. On looking up I see an Island Bay car "fly" past me, so I make a dash for tho terminus aud just board the car as it moves slowly away again. No sooner do I find myself comfortable than the conductor comes along for my fare. I hand him sixpence and say "Right to the beach." i repeat the injunction as he gives me threepence change. "That's quite right, sir," he replies, at which I laugh lightly, as I think of the small charge —ridiculously small when I remember the fare on the Christchurch-New Brighton line, which is about the same length. It is very pleasant travelling to Island Bay, too, for the cars are swift aud there is au absence of the "jagging" so noticeable' in other services—that of Sydney particularly. As we glide along Kent-terrace the i improvements thai have been effected simply astound me. "The Avenue," which was once an eyesore of ungainly aud neglected trees, is now a veritable forest of gorgeously-coloured foliage, with comfortable seats scati tered here and there on which the weary traveller may rest. The nearest resemblance to it I have seen is Sturt-street, Ballarat. All this time I have been facing the north, but owing to the wind being rather ■ strong I change around, and in doing ■ so I chance to glance in the direction of Brooklyn. Here, again, is the . prospect not recognisable as that which I witnessed ten years ago. The steep slopes are literally packed with houses that seem to cling to the liill--1 sides by tiieir own tenacity. And 1 • wonder what would happen should an ' earthquake at any time occur—for it ! is practically impossible to foresee such a calamity. We spin along past ; the well-known Basin Reserve into ' l Adelaide-road, which is now, without ' doubt, the finest thoroughfare in the ; whole of Wellington. What a traus- ! formation ! But I am getting used to ' these transformations, so I content myself with reading the morning paper, until I find myself at the [ Bay. > THE NEW ISLAND BAY. "' Lo ! the surprise of .surprises. "Is ' this Island Bay?" I mutter, and I ask : myse'f where the old racecourse is, and the barren hills that I so well remember. Naturally. I looked for some alteration, but I little expected what was in store for me. The old race- • course is no more, but in its place I are splendid tree-planted streets, runi ning at right-angles to each other, - and all containing their full quota of , well-built houses and beautiful , suburban homes. There is a large • tea-kiosk, overlooking the beach, that i seems to be built on the very rooks , themselves, and from the balcony of i which building splendid sea views , may be obtained. Several other kiosks , do business at the bay, and all are ex- [ tensively patronised in the summer. i The uamiug of the streets, too, in this i suburb is on quite a novel plan, all the thoroughfares being called after an

English river, such as Huniber, Trent, Avon, eto. A HUSTLING CENTRE. A few words by way of comparison of Wellington with other oities will not be out of place. In the first piece, there is an air about Wellington quite foreign to other New Zealand cities—an air of bustle and hustle. The sidewalks are always crowded, particularly**ia the busy noars, when the people crowd on to the road. Iv no otheMiarfc of the Dominiou—not even Auckland—are the streets so crowded as they are here. I suppose it may be accounted for by the fact that here, as m no other New Zealand city, the "floating" population is very large. Another reason that can be set down is that this is the largest shipping port in New Zealand, and there are always numbers of the shipping fraternity about the streets. The city is never quiet. At the house where I am staying thero is a young man whose work compels him to leave for the city at 3 a.m. I said to him one night, "Aren't you ever afraid of being stuck up some morning?" "Oh, no," he replied. "I was nervous at first, you know, but I am used to it now. Besides, there are so many people about." " At that time?" I queried. "Oh. yes," he said, "the place is quite alive. I meet dozens of people going to work —charwomen, milkmen, bakers, etc., besides the newspapermen coming home from work." To which statement I leplied with the query, "When is Wellington quiet!"' GROWTH OF BUILDING. The building trade here is supposed to be very slack, and I have no doubt that it is, which only induces me to wonder what it is like when it is brisk. Why, in one street alone— Featberston-street—no less than five large buildings have been erected during the last few mouths, and four more are at present under construction, including the large seven-storey building for the Bannatyne estate and the huge new G.P.O. Some idea of what the size of this latter structrue will be, may be gained from the fact that a large gang of men has been working on the foundations for the past six mouths aud is likely to be for some time to come. The new building, when completed, will have cost £100,000, aud will be over four times the size of the old one—which is saying a good deal. Very many large'private premises have also been erected in the city, and someday, perhaps, Wellington may boast a warehouse approaching in dimensions the colossal emporium of Anthony Hordern and Sous, in Sydney. Hordern's stands head aud shoulders above any other place iv Sydney, whereas Wellington can show quite a number of places of business that vie with each other in size aud the scope of their utility. To my idea the shops of the Empire City are superb—notably those devoted to drapery aud millinery. The latter have really magnificent window dis-plays--quite equal to anything I have seen—particularly referring to the large establishments. After drapery aud millinery, I thiuk the jewellery shops aud boot and shoe establishments follow, in that order. HEALTHY PROSPERITY. Iv conclusion, I must say that Wellington was indeed a very great surprise to me. She has prospered and is still doing so—notwithstanding depression—in a very high degree. And may she continue to progress, for I cannot but bestow the highest praises on a city that has made such marvellous advancement iv so short a time. Now that the Main Trunk line is open, Wellington should thrive as she has never dove before. I fully voice the opinion of one large business man here, that she will surprise not only the whole of New Zealand, but all Australasia.