TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXIV, Issue 934, 2 December 1933, Page 28 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

" PAPANUI " writes: I enclose some leaves from tomato plants. Could you say in Saturday’s “ Star ” the cause of the marks, and the remedy, if any? I have a few plants in a small glasshouse. They are looking well, but the bottom leaves are becoming marked. Would spraying with lime sulphur be of any use, and what mixture?—See answer to ‘‘Waiho.” Dusting fine sulphur powder is also good. Remember that the spores of these diseases are spreading to the new foliage ail the time. Good ventilation is essential also. “ WAIHO ’’ writes: The enclosed is a specimen leaf of Delphinium from Waiho. The plants are tall and healthy, but the lower leaves are spotted as in the specimen enclosed. Would you kindly through your notes in the Christchurch” ” Star ” let me know what the pest is and how to combat it?—Leaf rust, to which old plants are subject. Pick off all affected leaves and spray the plants thoroughly with Bordeaux, loz per gallon. This wash should be used for all foliage rust or mildew diseases. W.C. (Sockburn) writes: Being a reader of your Saturday’s gardening notes, which I find of great value, I enclose two potato blossoms, which 1 think have some disease. If so, I will be pleased if you could tell me what spray will prevent it.— Potato leaf blight (Phytophthora infestans), a serious disease in a damp season. Bordeaux is the best preventive, loz per gallon water, sprayed on and under the foliage. Two or three sprayings are advisable in bad attacks, such as where a white mould shows on under side of leaves, with dark patches on the upper sides. “ CONSTANT READER” (Sydenham) writes: I would be greatly obliged if you would let me know through your garden notes something that would kill convolvulus.—There is no method so good as pulling and forking out the roots. Perseverance will clear them out. I. (Millerton) writes: (1) I would be much obliged if you could tell me through the gardening column in the “ Star ” the name of the plant from which the enclosed flower and leaves are taken. For your further guidance I might say the stems of the plant are of a reddish colour and the flower is situated underneath the leaves. (2) I also enclose petals from a rose which are blackened through some cause or other, and would be much obliged if you could tell me the cause of the trouble and give a remedy for same. Would a mine fire that is burning close by and from which the fumes sweep down periodically be a likely cause of the trouble?— Number 1 reached me in fragments. The flowers should have been sent in a tin box. It is evidently a balsam impatiens. (2) This is rare Chateau de Clos Vouget, one of the darkest of roses. The mine fire might affect the blooms, but would have a more intense effect on light-coloured flowers. The petals sent are much like those from local plants. R.J.D. (Sydenham) writes: Would you kindly inform me what is wrong with

my peach tree? Two years ago I had a prolific crop of peaches from the above tree, but last year it only produced half the original crop. This spring it seems to be on the decay and one half the branches are without leaves. By breaking one of the branches I find the wood dead.— Caused by want of spraying during winter and early spring. Leaf curl will kill the foliage, and with gumming causes the branches to die. If you were to follow the directions printed regularly under the " Week's Work ” you would remove the infection. Spray at once with lime sulphur, i in 3 20, or Bordeaux, loz to the gallon. Both are serious fungoid troubles which get worse each season unless attended to. T.M. (Shirley) writes: (1) I am enclosing: a dahlia leaf with a beetle which is playing havoc with them. Could you tell me their name and how to get rid of them? (2) What is the cause of tomato blooms under glass falling?—(l) Bronze beetle. Spray with arsenate of lead, a teaspoonful to the gallon of water. It may be necessary to spray twice, at intervals of a week. (2) It may be due to the plant growing* too rank or pollen is not distributed. Clive rather more ventilation and about midday, when the air is dry, go. through the house and give the stems a shake. This will distribute the pollen. “FROSTY" (Dallington) writes: Many thanks for past help. Coulc? you please tell me the trouble with enclosed apple leaves?—This is a freak variegation, and not caused by a disease, althoogh mildew is also evident. It is caused by a disturbance of the colour cells of the branch. “ SUBSCRIBER ” (Ashburton) writes: I wish to shift some strawberry plants to a fresh bed because they are in a position that I consider too cold and shady. They have been in the present bed for two years. What I would like to know is: (1) Will it be all right if I shift the whole plant, or should I wait till the young shoots have taken root and then shift the n « Plant to the new bed? (2) uoulcl* It check the big plants much if I shift them? Or, if you advise me to replant just the young plants, should i destroy the old plants? Finally, I would be pleased if you would tell me if I shift the young plants "pul cl they bear good fruit next year, or would 1 have to wait till the second season after planting?—You ” 11 *®!L ri l ow . until March and make a new bed with the best of the voung runners. These will not bear much , year ’ so that would be £ t i*^ Cep the Old bed e-oing that Jong and then scrap it. The old plants a\ ou Icr not transplant profitably. “GLASSHOUSE” (Brighton) writes: I have a small glasshouse, and between the rows of tomato plants the earth gets very hard. Does that require to be forked up to let the warmth in? It gets like concrete and when watering it does not seem to get through.— Yes. decidedly. You must keep the surface loose. The addition of two inches of strawy manure as a mulch would also help.