Dresses of the Week

Star (Christchurch), Issue 17834, 30 April 1926, Page 12

Dresses of the Week

Written by

“STELLA”

No one. can deny that, the average woman, however busy her life, however small her income, is smarter today than she has ever been. She relies, you see, on the fact that a frock is becoming, and suited to her in line and colour, rather than an elaborate design, a rich fabric and a lot of trimming. For clay and evening wear it is simplicity that rules the day, the. ideal frock for autumn wear being one that can be worn under a smart street coat out of doors, from which the wearer emerges looking trim and dainty. Such frocks this autumn are carried out in all and every material both olain and patterned. Simplicity for evening wear is also now a general rule, and a girl who turns up on an informal occasion in what novelists used to describe as “ full evening dress,” or the more irreverent as ‘‘war paint,” will look and feel a little out of it. If the frock is fashionable and she looks well in it and it is suitable for dancing (this last is very necessary) she will, believe me, be in the swim ! Between the smart afternoon model and the. informal evening one, there is surprisingly little difference. This is partly due to the decolletagc, which, cither V-shaped or round (the. bateau and the square shape would seem to be less popular now) is practically always most discreet in cut. A few grander gowns are. of course, cut surprisingly low at the back, but they I arc few and far between. The same | fabrics, too, are used for afternoon and j evening frocks. We can rule o\it metal and tinsel brocades, gold and silver lame, shaded georgette, chiffon and mousselino dc soie these are exclusively evening materials—but afternoon and evening frocks have in common satin, georgette (not shaded), silk niarocain. crepe do chine, and taffetas, and of course, velvet, which is very fashionable this season. Emphatically. Paris says the allimport ant. “line” for coats and dresses must ” flare ” this season. The straight, tube-like contour has gone. Frocks i and coats are short; at least ten inches i off the ground. To the waist -which jis higher frocks must fit slightlv, with a new curved-in line. From waist to i | hem they must flare and float, i | Winter being near upon us, coats ■, are all-important. Paris votes for three

types of overcoat, mainly. First, a model with box pleats, the second “ godets ” from the waist, and third a long bodice and a circular skirt. Even tailor-made coats have a slight swing and fullness after they pass the waist.

Hats are still small, but not too small. They must turn up at the back, sharply, and most of then*, have a narrow straight brim in front. Hats are made of all velvet, all felt (including new velours), or velvet anti feit. The garcon frock, chic, debonnair and becoming, which, like shingling, seems so absolutely suited to the giri of today, is* just as much suited to sport as it is to general wear a fact that’s very much to its credit. Mans changes have taken place of late years, and none more violent than those in connection with sports clothes. It’s always unkind not to give praise where praise is due. and, whilst French designers, very rightly looking on “ les Anglais© ” as a “ nation of sportswomen.” turn to us for all their practical ideas in this connection, I do think we owe thorn

something for introducing to them a certain chic, both in colour and style. It is not every girl who, if she plays golf or tennis, or is keen on walking, can afford to invest in special Kit What she must do is to be sure that

she includes among her clothes at least one frock that, will give her freedom of movement for games, and that won’t come to grief if it gets wet; bearing in mind that there’s no reason in the world why she shouldn’t have both a smart and becoming model. There was never a year when she had a wider choice, and one of her greatest problems will probably be whether she will have a “ one ” or

“ two-piece.” Two-piece suits, though rather “ out ” for the moment for smart wear (for the tunic frock that is, a long tunic worn over a narrow fourreau —isn’t at all the same thing), are much used for sporting wear. Whether a " one ” nr ” two-piece ” frock is chosen trimmings will be carried out. on much the same lines. These must —needless to say. be exceedingly simple—buttons are much used and buttons put to a practical use (that is to say, a frock or jumper will have the line broken by n row of buttons, from neck to hem, that actually fasten the garment, placed close together). So nve pockets ta practical form of decoration these), of every conceivable shape and size. Often

a Batik handkerchief poking from one of them, will give the needed touch of colour, then again collars and cuffs will often give the freshest of touches. The wise woman won’t choose for her littlesports frock a fabric that is too fragile or crushes easily, though, of course, she doesn’t want anything too heavy.

A sports suit which looked most effective was worn at a golf match during the week, the material of fine stockinette was in a deep shade of beige, and the skirt front had the customary inverted pleats down the centre front. The long jumper was made with a plain neck with a shaped band of the material forming a narrow yoke, and continuing half way down the bodice, and trimmed with small buttons covered with the material. The long tight fitting sleeves were finished in the same way at the wrist, the effect being both trim and smart, and with a small hat of the same shade in velour felt, the wearer, who has recently returned from Sydney, looked most attractive.

At a popular wedding of the week, a relative of the bride wore a most stylish frock of deep bottle green smooth cloth. The frock was fashioned with a long straight effect finishing with a flared skirt, from neck to hem a narrow inverted pleat revealed a row of small black buttons which were both useful and ornamental, and the collar was of the high polo variety. The long sleeves finished at the wrist with a wide band of black fur, and all round the skirt hem the fur was again used. With her small felt hat to match, the toilette proved most distinctive. A graceful afternoon dress looked most attractive when worn bv a tall fair girl, whose engagement has recently been announced. The frock was made of mist blue crepe marocain. and was distinguished above all. by the fullness of its short godet skirt. The waist line was defined by a wide sash of the material, which tied with a longended bow at one side. The plain neck line bound with the material, the binding continuing round the vest-like front gave the finishing touch. Worn by a pretty young girl who has recently made her debut into gaieties of the. city \va» a model frock carried out in printed chiffon, made with a long bodice and two graduated panels of ninon frills picking up the predominating colour note of the pattern. A ribbon sash was tied at the low waistline, and two little ruffles of ninon were caught on each shoulder.