PALACE KITCHENS.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 8334, 5 June 1905, Page 1

PALACE KITCHENS.

CATERING FOR KINGS AND QUEENS. TES OtAffSSO/SOIBO TASTES OF \ ;-'v -^.ScrTAKET VARY. (Hew Orleans ' ' Times-Democrat. ' ' j lse chef is the power behind every throne jn" the world. Kings cannot " lire, jnthont cook's" any more than other .people can. This is why the pal- '' ace kitchen is such an all-important rooniv whether the King resides in tho . castle at Windsor or in some mud hovol in the African jungle. The preparation of his daily meals is ''one of tlie few things on* which the monarch bestows his personal attention in these days of responsible government, and hence we find him paying periodical visits to the realms of the cook, addressing tho assembled forces of the kitchen on their duties, or writing on a 1 menu card caustic comments which find their way to the heart of the chef. The kitchen in any one of the European Royal establishments is almost a little kingdom itself. With the fifty or sixty cooks and dish washers, not to speak of tho many othor attendants on the Royal table, the kitchen resemble 3 that of a hotel rathev than of a private residence. The arrangements for the Royal meal from, storeroom to diningroom a re . ca rri ed out with m ilitary precision, 'everything moves as if by clockwork. Under the systems established at most of the European courts, no more trouble is involved in serving a mealfor a hundred guests than for the King and Queen alone. KING EDWARD'S CULINARY '. ESTABLISHMENT. In a. Royal kitchen such as that at Windsor, one- is bewildered by the prevailing noise and bustle. Imagine a room neai'ly twice as large as the East Room of the White House, with two great open fires roaring at either end, while before them are crackling forty or; fifty large joints of beef. On either side of ;the long apartment a-re two im-j mehse ranges, each :over , twelve. , feeifc l .^>Y?dj>. ■; Ahovo_them, ( h^^jTLundp«ds of 4 *~ bujmished;; .■ copper- vessels of. different' shapes^ but ill of immense size. In tho centre; of tlie kitchen 'is an enormous ■steel table, heated by steam, on which ana dished out the dinners for the Royal- family and for the rest of the . household, while- around it are six large meat chopping blocks, each, as big as an ordinary dining-table. Next to tho open .range fires at the ends of the' room are large ovens built into the walls, and at the west end is a third open fireplace, very-, small in comparison with its companion, and used only for roasting the . delicate game- of which the King and 1 -Queen are extremely fond. ■ Despite the size of the main kitchen and the completeness of its equipment, it is used only for the heavier parts of the dinner. In addition are the pastry kitchen, the co-called " green room " where only the vegetables are. cooked, and: the- confectionery kitchen, which is as fully supplied with the necessary materials; as in aiiy modern candy shop. This is the particular pride of the King, who outdoes a child in his fondness for sweetmeats. . £4000 A YEAR FOR THE ROYAL . CHEF. • The' administration of the kitchen is nominally under the direction of the Master of the Household, who acts as the medium' of communication between ■the King and the chef. But the latter, a Frenchman, en joying a salary said to ' be nearly £4000, is it he real ruler of the forces of the kitchen, and his will ia v Bupreme in all matters of dispute that , arise wilfiin the borders of his domain. It b fa» that preparesthe menu for eubmiflwon and keeps a record of . th© -Quantities of food used in each dfeh. King Edward is very . particular regarding the menu, and it is no uncommon thing for him to upset the arrangements of his French cook by directing extensive alterations in the dinner oar. Associated with' the chef is the clerk of the kitchen, who has prao-* tically exclusive charge of £he finances, and who has a separate desk where he keeps: his accounts. Besides these two officials there are* master cooks, roasting cooks, apprentices and. kitchen ■mnid« 3 to say -nothing of the scullions' and other servants, bringing the num-* ber required to feed the King, up tp sixty or more. And remember that this is only one of three Royal culinary establishments. Since the King's serious illness at the time of his coronation, he ha* Veen obliged to be very careful of his diet. He still retains his fondness fosi the pouisson, a delicate bird from the vest of Ireland, and for sweetmeats, ■. but both he is only allowed to partake iof in moderation, and hence it is to h» guests that most of the daintier dlakes are served. TASTES OF A " COUNTRY GENTLE- . MAN." .. % , The King is an early i riser, and J3 always 'through breakfast by nine o'clock. This meal is the typical one of coffee, eggs and toast, while the lunch at 2.30 p.m. is equally light; In the English Boyal household, the familiar fire o'clock tea ha© an importance not found mother EuroEeUn oourts. Tea, sandwiches and cake form the substance of this repast, and the heavy dinner is Berved at 7 p.m. In hjs meals, as in all other matters, the King resembles a country gentleman rather than the stately monarch. His uaual dinner consisto of oysters, julienne soup, fish and the delicate game bird already mentioned, varied, eometim^B, with venison, of vMch King Edward k «(««% W. His Majesty is a very light drinker, wit! about the only xnjfr he toucbw w claret of a partioular brand and a dash of brandy with his coffee, ITHE MOST EXTRAVAGANT HOUSEKEEPER IN EUROPE. But, compared with the array, of su? gomumeranes emjalojred by, the OawCk

the kitchen at Windsor Castle resembles that of the average private family. It is declared by those intimate with the interior of the Czar's palace that his. is the most extravagant housekeeping in Europe. A great deal of extravagance is, of course, due to the "grafting" that abounds, and you can find many restaurant keepers in Pans who have gained their start in life through thenconnection with the Czar's kitchon. CZAR'S ARMY OF COOKS. A roster of the attendants connected with the cooking establishment is appalling ■; it reminds one of the numerical report of the casualties in a "Manchurian skirmish. At the head of the kitchen, pantry and housekeeping departments is the court marshal, Count Benckendorf, but, like the English master of the household, his control is only nominal. The real head is -what is known as the "court forager," an. official with the honorary rank of colonel, but formerly a chef. He is an imposing looking personage, resplendent in his court uniform with stars and medals. Owing to the easy access this official has to the prison* of his imperial Majesty and the consequent danger of poisoning, there is exacted of him a special oath of allegiance. 'He is assisted by the following army of attendants :— Twelve secretaries, four under-foragers, twenty-four upper lackeys, thirty-four lackeys, eighteen undcr-lackeys, and fifty-four lackey assistants. But there are more to follow, for nono of these various foragers and lackeys are concerned with such menial duties as . are connected with the immediate preparation of the monarch's meal. In the kitchen there are two French chefs, each with a salary equal to that of a Cabinet Minister. -They are not permitted as many assistants as the " chief forager," but are obliged to get along as best they can with four under-chefs, thirty-eight" ordinary cooks, twenty apprentices, and thirty-two kitchen maids. Besides / this is the pastry kitchen, ruled over by the chief' baker and twenty-four assistants. And yet, in spite of this formidable force of kitchen employees, it is declared that the Czar j is, comparatively, a light eater. " | SIMPLICITY AT THE WHITE house:"? Contrasted with this regal splendour and magnificence is the culinary establishment in our own White House. It has been said that we are " drifting into monarchy," and the '■' splendour " displayed at the executive department is supposed to prove the assertion. And still, when we compare the modest arrangements in the \Vhite' House kit- j I chen with the almost interminable array of, foragers, lackeys and cooks of the j Czar's court, or even with the threescore of servants in Windsor Castle, we cannot but feel that we are a long way from monarchy yet. r Though President Roosevelt has entertained more extensively anfl on a larger scale than any of his predecessors, his kitchen establishment differs vory little from that of any wealthy man in private life who is accustomed to do considerable entertaining. Scarcely twenty persons, all told, are immediately connected with the preparations for the White House meals, and all are under the direction of a steward employed by the Government. This official makes all the purchases and engages the servants. It is a singular- fact that while i the steward is paid by the Government, the money he disburses is that of the Chief Executive, who must himself pay for the food served on the table, as well 'as .'the servants' wages. ° STATE AND FAMILY KITCHENS, j Though larger than the kitchens of the ordinary house, those in the.Executive Mansion are small ' compared with the kitobena of Windsor pr St Petersburg. The main apartment, used for State dinners and more pretentious banquets, is 40 x 25ft, and leading off from it is a small room called the family kitchen. Both have practically the same equipment, except as regards size. In the White House establishment . there are no separate pastry, vegetable or confectionery rooms, as were found in Windsor and St Petersburg, but all is compactly arranged, even the scullery and china closets being in the main kitchen. The whole arrangement is so simple that it is a refreshing 1 change from the glamour and splendour of the Continent. When President Roosevelt's name is mentioned one naturally thinks of the Kaiser, who has so much in common with the American Executive. And William 11., though preaching abstemiousness jin all things to his people, nevertheless knows how to arrange a good dinner and how to enjoy it. Next to the Czar, the Kaiser's table is, probably, the most elaborate in Europe. COURT DINING IN BERLIN. With the desire for "show," which seems to be a part of his nature, the Kaiser has developed the court dinner until it surpasses even the gaudy pomp of St Petersburg. Whenever a State banquet is given at Berlin the head cook arranges several menuSj from which the Emperor makes his oboice. The invitations for the dinner are made on large vellum cards, on which are engraved the. intertwined monograms of the Emperor and Empress. On the reverse side of the invitations are printed elaborate directions as io dress, such as: " Undress uniform. Those who are not entitled to wear uniform will wear evening dress and white ties." At the table there is a servant to every couple, in addition to the footmen, who bring in* the dishes. The Emperor and Empress are' seated together at a separate table, and the formalities to be found at all court din.ners in Europe are closely observed at Berlin. No loud conversation is permitted in the presence of the ruler, and when their Majesties have finished a course everyone else at once ceases to eat of it. The same elaborate magnificence which characterises all of William's public appearances is seen in the arrangement of the table. Dinner is served on silver plate and Royal Berlin china, while the drinking glasses are ornamented on the upper part by a. broad band of gold, on which the monogram of the Emperor and Empress is worked in gold. The table is elaborately decorated with a profusion of flowers, chiefly roses, while the brilliancy of the ocoasion is heightened by the many silver candlesticks in the room, bearing hundreds of wax candles.

•.'The ■..menu, is lithographed on a vellum card, bordered with gold, and it is rather;.: notable that both on it and on the musical programme not a single foreign Void is found. Tlie cards are decorated with sketches by prominent German "'artists. After the dinner the Emperor and Empress hold a general reception, at which prominent guests are presented. For' one of these State banquets the kitcheni'allowance ranges from sdol to lOdol & plate, while for the ordinary dinners the daily expenses are about 2dola plate. : The ' following order to the court butchers on the occasion of a ceremonial dinner is interesting, as showing the quantity of meat consumed at one meal": — One hundred pounds of beef, four " calves' heads, three hundred and sixty pounds of loin of mutton, ten salted tongues, and two -hundred pounds of legs of mutton.

WILLIAM. AN ENORMOUS EATER

The Kaiser himsslf is an- enormous eater and drinker. His favourite dishes are said to be great pieces of meat, and fish, oysters and soup. . His favourite beverage is beer, but, . contrary to general opinion, he is v also fond of champagne, which he always drinks at dinner, in preference to red wine. There is, however, one delicacy which the Kaiser always has, either at breakfast or at lunch, when engaged in field manuoeuvres with the army. This is sausage of the large white variety, and, in order that the Emperor may have none but the best., he does not rely on some humble Berlin delicatessen store for his supply, but has a private sausage maker attached to his kitchen forces, -whose sole duty is to provide daily fresh Frankfurters for the Emperor's own table.

PRESIDENT LOUBET'S SIMPLE

TASTES

In the household of President Loubet we find the same simplicity that prorails in Washington. This was to be expected, for Loubet, a peasant by birth, has always retained the characteristics of the people among whom he was brought up. His meals — even the State dinners — are "of the simplest character,' when we compare them with the stately formalities of the German Kaiser's dinners of ceremony, while the kitchen establishment of the French executive dwindles into' insignificance beside the imposing array of functionaries required to give the Czar his daily bread. All this is in direct contrast

with Loubet's predecessor, Faure. whose grand ■entertainments and Royal splendour delighted the Monarchists and 'frightened those Frenchmen, who prefer the simple life, but it is at least a relief to find somewhere on the Continent of Europe a ruler who does not need a. small army of attendants and a hotel kitoben to provide his food and at the same time enable him to maintain his position. - '

WHEN THE POPE DINES

Like Emile Loubet, Pope Pius K. has a desire for simplicity and informality that equally distinguishes him from his predecessor. It was only natural that the man who, as Patriarch of Venice, was always at home alike to the humblest, artisan as well as to the richest and grandest patron of the Church, should retain his simple mode of life when raised to the Papal chair. As befits one occupying such a position, his meals are always quiet and informal, never elaborate, and, unlike Leo, who always dined alone, Pius K. is never so happy as when he is surrounded by members of his household or high dignitaries of the Church. He sits at a table, raked a little higher than that at which his guests sit' but this is the only traofrof formality that is observed. In the Pope's dining-room, the ordinary ornaments of such an apai'tment are replaced by those which have some ecclesiastical significance. The side-, board has two large crosses on either end, another cross hangs above the Pope's chair, and the one ornament not strictly religious in its symbolism is a marble bust of one of Pius' predecessors — who, my informant had not time to observe. , ,

■ ■■' In the home" of the Italian monarch, 1 there is, of course, a great deal more of what we maj^tjeirm " show " than at. either the home of the French President or the Vatican, but at thg_Bame time the kitchens and table of til. offer yet another contrast to those of his ally, the Kaiser, or of his riral, the Caar. So mixoh has been jward >>f the domeßtioh^of ' ; tie* Italian* Kin*

and Queen that one is not surprised t» learn that even the court; dinners at Rome was so devoid of formal etiquette that they are scarcely to W.distinguished from the ordinary repass.j At these functions the conversation Zis general, even the King and his consort entering into animated converse : 'i with their guests. "j ' ■ " ELK IN TEN FASHIONS. 3 ' The Czar, Avhose elaborate -kitchen force has been described, makes miserable the lifo of his chef, as Fell as the live? of his niimsters'.by his vacillating conduct. His great forte is to order <*xpeusivo r.peciaf dishes to be' 'prepared, and then, like a peevish child, refu3O them for something else. On one occasion ho gave tlio' extraordinary order lor the preparation of elk in ten fashions,'" but. m> soortor was tho menu I snt before him than he countermanded I it in 'favour of black game, j -very fond of fruit-, and expends vast suitis on rare' varieties in soasCnS xyhen it is difficult to procure. It is not nn-j I common ioi the court forager 6i,one£j 'his Tiianv assistants to orders steawber- ; rier. at half a dollar .apiece, of to pay.. £2 10s or £3 for a peach. -> ."■-.: King Carlos, of Portugal.- a monarchwho seldom appears before the*general public, is another eaxmple of the-JPulpr * who lives and grows fat on the sinvpj lost fare. His favourite dinner consists of oysters, porterhouse st'cfek and cheese, something of a change fi^hi the "elk in ton fashions'' of Nichjplas'of Russia. § The gastronomic tastes of the^ kings of the earth range from the highest to the lowest. Some delight in extravagance luxury, others prefer the frugal meal more frequently fotind in the home of the peasant than < in: the palace of the king, but least of all can monarchs "live without cooks." They are too important a part of the 'Stated which kings must maintain whether they like it or not. ;'