QUEEN OE THE SAHARA

Star (Christchurch), Issue 8309, 6 May 1905, Page 4

QUEEN OE THE SAHARA

1 WINTER RESORT. (By EUSTACE REYNOLDS-BALL, F.R.C.S.) _. i This rising desert winter resort, called the " Queen of the Sahara " by the Arabs, lies on the borders of the Great Sahara, some. 140 miles from Constantine, in Algeria. It is the only real desert winter resort outside Egypt, for it need hardly be said that Tangier and Algiers are separated by many miles of the undulating "Tell" country — hills, i valleys and plateaux — from the real l desert. Biskra is probably destined to be the Algerian winter resort of the future, not only for invalids attracted for itglorious climate, but for ordinary tourists and holiday-makers. It is popular with those who simply wish to get away from the English winter, who, having Anglicised wintering places of the Riviera and other Continental resorts, seek, in the inland winter resorts of North Africa, fresh woods and pastures new for winter quarters. They do not desire absolutely unexploited and unde-, veloped places, and have no ambition to rough it in experimental winter stations. This account- for the increasing rogue with well-to-do visitors of this winter station. Certainly times have changed since Biskra was " discovered " some twenty years ago, when there was only one hotel, and when water was so scarce that at the primitive table d'hote drinking water was charged for, while wine was supplied gratis, an arrangement which on one occasion induced a horrified teetotal visitor to declare that it was putting a premium upon drunkenness. Now, however, thanks to the numerous artesian wells dug by the French engineers, Biskra is abundantly supplied with water. ' Accommodation for visitors afforded by the four or five hotels is good, but limited. The leading hotel, the Royal, is a large, imposing, arcaded building somewhat resembling the G.O.H. at Colombo, one of the historic hotels of the East. Unfortunately, th© Biskra hotels are built for hot weather, with a strange forgetfulness of the fact that they are intended chiefly for, winter vis,itors. Consequently, invalids complain that they are cold and draughty. Ihe terms are rather high — about lis 6d a day at the two principal hotels — hut this includes wine. Then there are two other hotels which have a less exclusively nglish clientele, oharging about 7s 6d a day. Recently, a small but up-to-date hotel has been built in connectioh with the Casino; with the quaint name, Dar Diaf (Hous© of the Hosts>. Tourists must remember that the hotel accommodation is not equal to the demand, especially during February and March, and it is necessary to engage rooms many weeks beforehand. Though Biskra cannot boast — and what winter resort can? — all the climatic advantages of the fabled land of Avilion, yet it possesses as good a one as is obtainable within four days of London. The atmosphere is stimulating and remarkably pure and salubrious, and it has indisputably the best climate of any health resort within the same distance of England. The guide-books will tell you' that rain never falls, but this is palpably an exaggeration. The only rainless winter resort in North Africa 'is Assouan. Still, during the months of February, March, and April the visitor may count on getting weeks of perpetual sunshine. But basking in the sunshine "■' and strolling in the innumerable date groves of this Algerian oasis are not the only attractions. In fact, in addition to the quasi-urban amusements of the pretentious little Casino, Biskra offers its visitors many amusements. Among these are the bizarre performances of the Almeea (a class of women of the tribe of the Oiiled Nail). Thes9 dancing girls, like the nautch girls of India or Ghawazee of Keneh, on the Nile, form a separate sect of the community. The sporting facilities of Biskra are good ; indeed, it is perhaps the only Algerian resort frequented by foreigners where it is worth while to take a gun. Hares, desert partridges, and sand grouse abound; while in February and March good bags of quail can be obtained. The 'common gazelle affords good sport, and is not uncommon, hut stalkina; is rarely successful, except with the co-operation of two or three Arab beaters. As to big game, jackals can occasionally be run down by the^ native greyhounds (sloughuis). It is the ambition of most sportsmen to bag a Barbary sheep (moufflon), but its capture demands all the craft and patience of an experienced chamois hunter, and an expedition of several days in the* Aures Mountains. Occasionally a battue can be arranged with the Arab hunters, but this is a costly method. An opportunity is afforded to visitors provided with introductions to the military commandant of seeing something of the sport of hawking in the desert, expeditions occasionally organised by the Kaid of Biskra. But the exhibition of falconry with_ bagged hares which takes place during the races is a miserable travesty of the real sport. These races and Arab fetes, which include a fantasia, corresponding to the famous " powder play "of Morocco, take place in February. Biskra is not easy of access, though ' tho long railway journey is full of interest and variety to the tourist. Indeed, the journey is far more fatiguins: than that from London to Cairo, and takes' nearly as long. • Even by the direct sea route from Marseille^ to Pbilippeville by the TransAtlantio ' Company's slower . isteamera. every Saturday — for the " greyhounds of the Mediterranean" are reserved for the Marseilles-Algiers service— there is a tedious railway journey from Philippeville of twelve hours, in which Arctic cold may be encountered . before the Sahara is reached, for the railway crosses elevated plateaux where snow is not, unknown. . *- ■ V There is no doubt the alternative of travelling via Algiers and thence by train. But?, as connections are -faulty, this means a train journey of thirty-six hours. The through first-class' -fare from London to Biskra (via Algiers) is about £14.