Fashions Up-to-Date

Observer, Volume XL, Issue 12, 22 November 1919, Page 29

Fashions Up-to-Date

[By DoiiOEEß.]

Individuality. THE dressmaker may be responsible for a large part of the success of a gown, but a very great deal depends on the wearer. The loveliest combination of colour and design can seem most uninteresting if it is not worn properly, or if worn by the wrong person, wlnic i ii ty woman or a white striped voile frock witli an unassuming black velvet sash and a deep collar of plain white voile can seem well-dressed and even distinguished, quiet though her frocking is. Such a woman is always perfectly gowned, because she first finds out what suits her, and then adds to the selected model just one distinctive touch that makes the gown really hers. Each dress that she puts oh makes her > seem different, yet each one appears to belong to her, to be a part of her. Because a hat or frock suits one woman perfectly, it does not necessarily mean that it will be becoming to another. The same dress can look totally dif-

ferent when worn by opposite types of women. Have you noticed this sometimes at a wedding where the bridesmaids are dressed exactly alike? The well-dressed woman considers not only what she will wear, but how she will wear it. Her frock reflects her mood, and so gams character from her. All faces do not look alike, though each shows eyes, nose, and mouth; neither need all frocks look alike, though the main points of each are short sleeves, short skirt, low neck, and a sash. * ' ■ * *. The clothes problem of the woman who is not slender is solved in this manner. She should seek long lines, and never wear anything-that detracts from her Height. There is no necessity, however, to go to extremes, as some women do, and slant the girdle or waistbelt line downward from back to front to such a degree that it looks ridiculous. It is important that a stout woman should inspect a dress from every point of view when a fitting is in progress, as it may look quite pleasing from a front view, and yet be most unbecoming in profile, and perhaps need just some slight alteration to make it all right. It is equally important that the back view should be carefully observed, as frequently —far too frequently—the back of the bodice is fitted so tightly that there is more than a suggestion of strain at the arms and shoulders, and this is fatal to a correct appearance.

Checks and plaids are to be .avoided by the stout woman, and stripes must be approached warily, although they are frequently recommended as giving length to the figure. Of course, I mean vertical stripes, for under no circumstances must a stout woman wear horizontal ones." As a matter of fact, it is better to avoid striped material altogether, and get length' of line by other means. Costumes on redingote lines are very successful for this purpose, and this is especially the case when the design shows an unbroken line from under the arm to the hem, with the waistline indicated at the back and front only. In a dress of this style, the line from under the arm downwards must be kept fairly straight. If there is any attempt to draw it in at the waistline it results in increasing the apparent size of the hips to an unbecoming degree. At the risk of being tedious, and repeating myself, I must emphasise the fact that there is scarcely a single frock which is not rendered more becoming to a stout figure by keeping the waistline large, and thereby making the hips seem smaller.