Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXVI, Issue 39, 3 June 1916, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

«. By Myra.

WEARING with her skirt of dull, Roman coloured l plaid a coat of blue "gabacord" with black braided frogs and a seal collar and cuffs, the girl in to-day's picture suggests naturally a little commentary upon jackets long and short. • • *

For it seems inevitable that when the wrap coat made of blanketing or some material more ornate is not chosen, the jaunty little jacket takes its place. And when the wearer is a slender girl it is a pleasure to see tlie pretty garment in the companionship of a full skirt, cut short enough to reveal the dainty footwear.

A Avell-considered medley of dull shades, such a 6 our artist suggests, in which soft blue and burnt orange mingle with fleeting suggestions of green in narrow lines and of grey in larger quantities, makes for a girl a distinctly becoming whole.

Fashion smiles benignly upon it, but she favours also the one-colour scheme from head to foot, and it, too, has undeniable charms. A very tall and slender daughter I knoAv has just been presented by her mother with a suit of chocolate-brown duvetyn, comprising a short coat and a Dutch skirt, set full into the rather high Avaist.

To this skirt the quaintest little jacket-bodice appertains, for which chocolate velvet has been used. It is a bodice that pretends to fit the thin figure closely, though it does not bear the appearance of skimpiness, and that falls below the waist, having clung to it sufficiently to indicate the outline, and then flutes outwards 'a a basque.

A broAvn hat, brown silk stockings, brown suede footgear, and gloves to match complete the picture, and there is a set of brown furs, comprising a necklet and barrel muff, to add further beauty to the nut-brown maid's attire.

A girl Avhose schoolroom days are numbered finds that Avhile she is allowed to folloAV the fashions dutifully, she is not permitted to exhibit their extremes.

Few sartorial mistakes produce a more glaringly unpleasant effect than sweet seventeen in exaggerations of the mode—the too full skirt, the too baggy jacket, the gaudy boots amply tasselled, the toque too small, or the hat too large.

But the little novelties that appeal to girlhood, such as footgear laced up the sides, with cloth uppers in grey and broAvn shades, which may even be lightly traced with soutache, are being given to her, and she is wearing the essentially youthful looking fur cravat so constructed that the chin sinks behind it.

Many a quaint muff design may be hers, among them the bonbon or cracker design, Avhich' in fur hemmed or silk frilled duvetyn or velvet makes a charming possession.

Unending is the procession of choker and muff sets, and perhaps the latest is the one that includes a pair of gauntlet cuffs as companions to or substitutes for the muff.

The collar that stands very high and hides the chin is the one that is the present attraction. It suits the girl whose neck is long and demands particularly a piquant cap, of the Russian order, which might quite well be included in the set. Some of the tall collars have delightful all round shoulder capes also, and

these fit nicely over any collar less coat. ,» .-...'. ...» • I saw a set -for a girl in white and brown fur which had a very pleasing aspect. The fur cloths, too, are available, and so pretty arid comfortable that no. one hesitates to buy them. ■ • • ... [ With the revival of the net **ved- , ding veil niched with white satin or looped with pearls comes the wed- ' ding favour, a pretty attention to the nearest relatives of the "contracting parties," and one that may take the place of the large bouquet sometimes offered to them.

All the women relatives of the bride and bridegroom wore ;.t a recent wedding rose posies which labelled them, according to their special shade of pink, members of his family or hers. • Some of the posies were fixed on to the muffs of their wearers, and others nestled below the neck on the fur, while the old-fashioned methods of tucking them into the coat found several folloAvers.

I noticed at a marriage the other day that early Victorian nosegays stuck in perforated paper surrounds were worn by the ,two little pagehoys thrust into their tunics. And for the bridesmaids there Avere baskets of flowers Avith a pin-cushion dangling from the handle. Each phi-cushion was made to resemble a Victorian nosegay, cA r en to the paper surround, but Avhere the flowers ought to have been was a cushion Avith Avorsted blossoms embroidered on it. There were pins, too, with which the nosegays in those baskets of the bridesmaids and other baskets Avere attached to the guests' coats and muffs when the time for distribution came.

The marriage service book, with a place for the wedding certificate for the signatures of the witnesses or for those of any distinguished guests, is bound with a piece of the bride's gown for cover, and marked in gold with the full initials of the bride and groom and date of the wedding. The officiating clergyman

uses this copy at the ceremony,, and he signs his name within its pages at the conclusion of; the service. Thus the bride has a most interesting memento of her wedding. ■ • '',"■ ",-■■•• • The most popular bridesmaids' gifts for these weddings are gold and silver spangled fans that are pearl .mounted, with provision for the signatures of the bridal party, and also powder and puff boxes covered with satin or brocade mounted in gold or silver, with the recipient's initials in gold or silver lettering on the top.