DRESSES AT THE MELBOURNE CUP

Observer, Volume 3, Issue 63, 26 November 1881, Page 168

DRESSES AT THE MELBOURNE CUP

On taking a general survey of the dresses ■worn at the Melbourne Cup (says the Are/ us of the following day), and contrasting them with those worn on former occasions, it was evident that a great revolution had taken place in the matter of costume amongst the ladies. The gorgeous colours and extravagantly costly attire of by-gone times had disappeared, and had given place to softer and more becoming hues, and to more moderately priced although still very rich fabrics. As a rule too, there were very few long trains, the skirts being generally of a short and comfortable

walking length. There wore a good many black silks and satins, which are never out of place and always becoming ; and a few muslins and silks of a whiteness as pure as snow. The favourite tints, however, were jiale blues and pinks, and these, with numbers of light and dark browns, several sea-greens, " cherry -ripes," and a variety of brocades, produced a harmony of colours enchanting to the eye. A closer inspection showed that the trimmings in many cases were of the richest description, and that whilst costly laces were used in profusion a new kind of beaded fringe and ornamentation called guipure — looking antique and elegant — was very fashionable. The sunshades or parasols were in many cases much brighter than the dresses, and added considerably to the brilliancy of the scene. Amongst them were numbers of the Japanese shape — the almost flat shape, which is expected soon to supersede the ordinary convex forms. As has been already observed, there were very few long-trained costumes to be seen, yet the most striking dress on the lawn was one of brqo*ded velvet of " jonquil " coloured ground, with black (lowers, having a court train of four yards in length. The train wag edged with a deep flounce of real Spanish lace, whilst the skirt, which Avas sicilienne, matching in colour the ground of the brocade, Avas richly gathered and pleated. The lady's bonnet and sunshade were in keeping Avith the richness ami glory of her costume. Probably the most expensive, and certainly one of the most elegant dresses, was one of brocaded biscuit-coloured silk, trimmed with aero of a dark cardinal hue, and profusely ornated with Honiton lace. It would be futile to attempt an exhaiistive account of all the dresses, but the following enumeration of the prettiest of them will be of interest to our lady readers : — A " Cherry-ripe " shaded satin merveilleux jacket,

bodice, and skirt, the skirt bodice, and drapings trimmed with rick white beaded guipure lace ; sunshade of white satin, trimmed with deep white embroidery, and edged with strawberries and leaves ; bonnet to match. A steel-coloured satin de Lyons, draped at sides, and skirt richly gathered and trimmed with tery handsome steel passementerie and fringe ; sunshade of steel satin, trimmed to correspond ■with dress ; bonnet of steel lace, and cream feathers. A very rich brocade of light and dark heliotrope, with skirt of satin to match, draping of skirt of the brocade demi-train. A very dainty dress of white Indian muslin, draped and trimmed with silver spangled boule de soie and lace. A white cashmere, richly embroidered in crewels, and trimmed with white lace. A very elegant dress of pale blue sateen, with broche to match, and profusely trimmed with cream point a l'aiguillc lace. A very handsome dress was of Tuscan merveilleux, beautifully trimmed with lace. There was also white Indian muslin, trimmed with gold and grenat figured silk muslin. Amongst the light colours was a pretty blue silk and satin dress, trimmed with aero lace. A beautifully made rich grenat satin dress was very much admired. It was trimmed with very rich gold and grenat velvet trimming, edged with veal Brussels lace ; bonnet to match, with three roses in front ; white Japanese parasol ; altogether one of the most becoming toilettes on the lawn. A rich black Spanish lace ; petticoat front of gold and shaded striped satin flowers trimmed with gold Spanish lace ; a very handsome, rich costume. A beautiful sapphire rich brocade satin was trimmed with plain satin of the same shade ; jacket body of brocade, with pleated front of plain satin, fastening with straps of the same ; body trimmed with a superb beaded guipure made expressly for the dress ; the front of the skirt closely drawn at the top, the fulness from which fell on each side, disclosing an apron of brocade edged with the beaded guipure ; then a deep flounce of drawn and puffed satin, finished out to narrow pleating on bottom of skirt. To complete this tasteful costume was a. sunshade af .sapphire brocaded satin, lined with cream satin, and trimmed with beautiful sapphire bead fringe. A dress noticeable for its quiet good taste, and a type of what young ladies may wear to advantage, was a dark bronze brocade, satin, prettily relieved with bright steel fringe roxmd t lie neck and on the draping in front of skirt, 11 ie brocade forming a pleated scarf over the bodice ; parasol of plain bronze satin. A very handsome costume of rich violet brocaded velvet was very effective. It was a princess robe of the violet brocade, with a beautiful bordering of violet and gold beaded embroidery, which looked like jewels on the bodice and overskirt. The lower half of the skirt in front was worked in two deep flounces of satin kiltings, headed by deep drawings of the same. There was also a grey figured silk with shaded flowering for the bodice ; very deep puce on one side of skirt, while the other side was filled in with plain grey satin, all beautifully worked and arranged in small buoillons and frills. In one dross black satin brocade in large roses formed the upper portion and back of a princess robe ; below this there was throe very effective flounces of heavy Spanish lace, followed by throe pleated (lowers of richly flowered satin of gold colour, laid in pleats ; a myrtle satin costume with bonnet and sunshade of the same. This elegant dress was richly trimmed with a brightbeaded guipure and wide fringe. There was a sal in nierveilleux of one the newest colours, a sort of almond shade; jacket bodice with heavy gold beaded trimming and gold colour Spanish lace jabot, the skirt trimmed on both sides with beaded gold guipure, wide gold fringe falling from it in front of shaded striped satin ; parasol of almond satin trimmed round with gold colour Spanish lace, and finished with guipure.