CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Timaru Herald, Volume CXLV, Issue 21186, 5 November 1938, Page 15

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

FROM OCTOBER-STRUCK CUTTINGS The owner of a. small greenhouse who has ambitions to grow Japanese chrysanthemums is frequently at a disadvantage owing to lack of the space which full-grown plants demand. But if these are grown from October-struck cuttings In six-inch pots they will not exceed 24 inches in height, thus allowing three smaller plants in the space of one larger one, and without the corresponding height. The period of culture also is shorter, and begins at a time when conditions are more congenial than in July and August, when cuttings must be struck in the normal maner, and the percentage of casualties is, therefore, correspondingly less, for at this period the old stools appear to give a better type of cuttings than could be secured in the months referred to. This, together

with warmer temperatures and longer daylight, makes for quicker rooting and healthier plants. Those growers who, for any reason, find their early-struck cuttings unsatisfactory have another opportunity to start, plants, which will probably do mucli. better than any which show signs of ill-health.

A box, ten Inches deep, with two inches of leaf mould at the bottom, makes a suitable propagator. When everything is ready, sever a few shoots three inches long, those for preferece growing out of the soil. Make a clean cut Just below a leaf Joint with an old ' safety razor blade or a sharp knife, and | remove any bottom leaves that might | touch the soil. Do not forget that cuttings do not like sunshine, so work in the shade, and place the cuttings in shadow till all is completed. Then moisten thoroughly with tepid water through a fine-rosed can, and allow the pots to drain for a short time before placing in the propagator. From . now on shade from sun must be provided, but not to the exclusion of light. The glass covering must be reversed twice each day to remove excess moisture. No actual watering will be necessary for two weeks, but an occasional fine spraying will be needed if the cuttings appear limp. Uare after Rooting If all goes well, in about three weeks the young plants will have made enough root system to allow the glass to be lifted a little, increasing this each day until the plants can do without the protection. In about another week they will be ready for a threeinch pot. The same compost will serve, except that a little more loam may be added, and a sprinkling of fine bone flour. Shading will still be necessary, but, after a day or two, regular watering will be required to make sure that the soil is kept in a moist condition, as any check must be avoided at this stage. After three days the cold frame will be the best place for the plants, and It may be necessary to keep it close for a day or two. If frost is likely, a covering at night will be needed; thereafter gradually harden to weather conditions. The Sin pot will come into use when the young plants have nearly filled the smaller receptacles with roots. It is important that the whole ball of soil must be moist at the time of repotting, and a compost of a stronger nature must I.; used. It is all the better for being prepared a week or two in advance, and kept moist. The bulk should be of turfy loam, and, if de-

fieient in lime, a little must be added. 1. on the heavy side, use a little Sand or mortar rubble. A portion of wellrotted manure (either cow or stable) is essential, also a small quantity of bonfire ash.

The pots should be filled firmly to within two inches of the rim. Throughout growth the space can be filled with a finer compost, to which a fertiliser has been added. It will also be neces- ' sary to use likuid manure. For the standing ground the writer has found it a good plan to dig a shallow trench in the garden, at the bottom of which a narrow strip of wood can be laid. Upon this stand the pots. The soil can then be drawn -up almost to the edge of the pots. This method for small sizes, and large ones, for that matter, works well, and helps to conserve moisture, a very important item. A two-foot cane will be needed for each plant, and it pays to secure them to a strained wire stretched ovehead. Otherwise the canes will soon become loose in so little soil, giving no end of trouble.

A careful - watch must be kept for thfe first bud. It will be noticed that very soon after it appears, tiny side shoots will show close to It. These

must be carefully removed when large enough to handle. Any other side shoots which subsequently show must also be removed. If the bud should get damaged in any way, the only course open is to allow another side shoot to grow. In due time it will produce another bud. This must be secured, in the hope that it will mature in time. If all has gone well, the colour in the bud will be visible towards the end of March, when the plants must be housed. There Is, however, one very important task to attend to while the plants are still in the open, and the writer passes it on as an item well worth the trouble undertaken. The week prior to housing spray three times with liver of sulphur to check mildew.