WATERING THE GARDEN

Taranaki Daily News, 30 November 1934, Page 12

WATERING THE GARDEN

MOST SUITABLE TIME. Watering just now is a most Important operation with many gardeners. The best time to apply water is during the evening or at night. This does not mean to say that the theory that it is harmful to water plants when the sun is shining is correct, because it is not; there is no harm to the plants, but it is wasteful, although there are times when it must be done then or not at all. It is better to give a good watering once a week than a little every day, especially to deeply rooting or well established plants. With seedlings and young plants a little water every evening with shading during the middle of the day will give the best results. Immediately after watering, or at least when the surface has dried sufficiently, break up the surface with the hoe. It prevents the plastered surface cracking and allowing of excessive evaporation. It must also be remembered that all plants are not aquatics and only need sufficient water to supply their needs. The surplus is allowed to run off or soak away, and with it a certain amount of plant food, which means the excessive watering is robbing the garden and the plants. If during the hottest part of the day the leaves of a plant droop, showing signs of distress, it may be want of water, but it is often due to the roots not being able to keep pace with the evaporation from the leaves. This is often due to a large supply of water and manure producing large foliage. In such cases, however, it will be found that a little shading in the middle of the day, or an extra mulching will be more effective and give better results than extra watering. SWEET WILLIAMS. No garden can be considered complete without some of the new large flowered varieties of this bld-fashioned plant. Not only are the individual blooms of these more than twice the size of the original strains, but the colours are better and brighter. Particularly are the salmon pink shades to be recommended. Tire sweet william is not difficult to grow. Like most plants it does better where it receives good treatment, although too much good living often makes the plants too gross to flower well. A mistake often made with them Is sowing at the wrong time. Seed sown at almost any time of the year will germinate and eventually flower, but seed sown now in the open, the seedlings pricked out, when large enough to stand, about six inches apart, allowed to grow on till next April or May, when they will have made nice sized plants, then planted out in their permanent quarters, about eighteen inches apart, they will every one bloom and give full value for the labour expanded. When sown too late the result is that many of the plants do not blocm, but : imply make large clumps of foliage, and it is the following summer oefore they flower. Also when planting them incorporate some old lime rubble with the soil. Lime and good drainage are essential to the sweet william. WHY PLANTS ARE HILLED. The terms “hill” and “hilling” as applied in the garden, are likely to be misleading to the beginner, who naturally assumes that they refer to raised mounds, whereas, in fact, almost without exception, the seeds are sown in level drills and the “hilling” is done after the plants have made considerable growth. A few crops are liable to stem rot, and an excess of moisture around the stem of the plants aggravates the trouble. Therefore melons, pumpkins, etc., may be sown in raised “hills” a few inches above the surrounding grade. Other vegetables that are “hilled” have the soil drawn up around thejn after they have attained a fair size. The advantage of “hilling” i.e., drawing up earth around the stem of the plant, is to protect weak stemmed plants against blowing over during heavy storms. .In some cases plants send out

a new rooting system from the newly Covered portion of the stem, such as maize and tomatoes. Potatoes are “hilled” when they have made several inches of growth, and when they are forming; tubers, this extra soil acting as a mulch and protecting the young tubers. Leeks are “hilled” as they grow to lengthen the blanched or edible portion of the stem. Peas are “hilled” when a few inches high to protect them till brush or other support can be supplied. In fact most vegetables grown during summer are benefited by “hilling.” BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS. The old-fashioned bedding calceolarias are one of the amateur gardener’s most treasured plants. They thrive equally well in small and large gardens, and are as much at home in the town and suburban strip of ground as in the Cower beds surrounding palatial mansions. To protect the cuttings in winter a headlight or frame is all that is necessary. Dibble the cuttings in the ground in September and cover with glass till the time for removal in spring. It is now time to move the young plants from the cutting bed to their flowering quarters. In the suburban garden calceolarias will brighten either the small front garden or the borders at the back. The former is often rather moist, and for portions of the day shady—conditions which just suit these old friends. Then again, they make a delightful show in window boxes and pots, particularly if the aspect is south-west or west. Calceolarias will grow in most soils, and delight in a little manure when the flower buds show. THE USEFUL ZINNIA. For garden decoration the zinnia is one of the most desirable of half-hardy annuals. The colours are very brilliant and rich, and include all shades of crimson, orange and white. The flowers are of various sizes, from the small liliput sorts, with flowers between one and two inches across to the large dahlia-flowered section with flowers six or more inches across. The seed germinates readily in gentle heat, but the seedlings often suffer from a wilt disease, and this is aggravated by damp and cold conditions. The zinnia needs heat and sun, and any degree of shade has a bad effect on the plants. Another point is not to sow too early. Thg zinnia is £ late suqunty and auiuntn

• flower, and late sowings will usually i give the best results, October is quite ' early enough to sew, and planting can ; be done u’d the end of December. i The zinnia likes a rich roil tn all sto-ges. i A compost of loan, with half a part each of well decayed manure and sand. is | useful for raising the seedlings. Th* jseed is large, and can be sown sfcgly ' and evenly on the surface. Lightly i cover it with fine sail and water with ’ a rose on the can. The roed-bax or pan 1 should be covered with jliss, and s:oed j in a warm pSasw. j The seedlings should be pridted out ; before they touch one another. Water ? carefully, for the must. net be »!- , towed to become dry; M the saw time ; avoid excess, which will lead to da,asp- ' ing-off. Give air when the seedlings are up. and later e© we them, to a ledd frame. Prepare fce site far them, working in plenty cf e.ld manure. AlJ tow each plant plenty cd re-ozn, 15la far ' the small sorts, up to St for the terse ■ kinds. Through-out the summer keep the hoe going. remove ftewrs as thev ! fade. If caterpillars. appear spray wvfc arsemte of lead. ShouSS mildew shew ion the foliage spray with Itoaa sulphur. NEW ZEALAND SFINACH. ; The ordinary- stosuner am! wiaW® i sp.fca.ch are- liable to Ml in ««* 5 on account of * futwus, and wry 'qtadirty run to seed in wagner. Iw [spinach (Wteagjwfc exponsW way b» ■■ sown. two feet apart each. way, or thre* feet 'tn rich soifc It will furnish a supply of fleshy leaves from this era#- sewing til! the frost castes. Seed say be xswn in the open in Sep tern be - or October. ANNUALS FOR DRY POSITIONS. Among annuals that thrive en dry places are the rorafcwer, sweet wlaw linum, flax, poppy. eschKhahria. Sare tenia aurea. Nenwphite fcKsnis,. ani ealandrfca. SHARING THE GREENHOI*SEL Owing to the increased ®»ant ef shine, the soil in pots, dries up rapidly, and if ctoaltng with too frequent applksfcoos -rf water tetete t«* chill the soil and retard growth# inereforis slight shadfcg a beaa&stel,