COLOMBO

Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 64, Issue 4561, 17 April 1942, Page 7

COLOMBO

ITS GREAT IMPORTANCE JUNCTION OF THE EAST

(By

F.J.)

Ever since the fortunes of war produced the dramatic results with which the names Hong Kong, Manila, Malaya, Singapore, Sumatra, and Java, and island territories in the Australian strategic area have become associated, the island of Ceylon has assumed an increasingly important position in the councils of the Allies—no less, doubtless, also in those of the Axis Powers.

A few days ago the Governor of the colony, Sir Andrew Caldecott, declared the time had arrived for Ceylon to “ clear the decks for action,” and that the “ eyes of the world” were focussed on this favoured spot, which in poetic Oriental hyperbole has been described the “ the Pearl Drop on the Brow of India.”

The Age, recently, in discussing the military situation of Ceylon in relation to Imperial defence, directed special attention to the naval base situated on the magnificent harbour of TrinComalee, since when several leading journals in the United Kingdom have discussed the same theme. But “ Trinco ” must be considered first and last in a strictly military-strategic sense. Colombo, on the other hand, claims attention more from the commercial standpoint. A GREAT ENTREPOT Colombo, probably the best-known overseas port to the majority of New Zealanders, was prior to the outbreak of' war one of the greatest passenger entrepots mankind has ever created. More than half a million passengers passed through the port in a year. As a shipping centre it ranked fourth in the Empire and sixth in the world. Wbriters of every country and almost every colour have described the city, the island, and the people. Accuracy has not always characterised these efforts. Thus one Australian writer in the early years of the present century: “ Colombo is bounded on the north by Sheol, on the south by the Equator, on the west by the bottomless pit. Its inhabitants are a mixed crew of Malays, Sinhalese, Tamilmen, and half-castes, most of whom loaf, beg, sponge, cheat, and steal for a living; others work around the hotels. The place owes its prosperity, and much of its recreation, to the unsuspecting tripper. The principal native 5 ? products are malaria and moonstones.” More generally, and with much more truthfulness, it has been referred to as “ Where East meets West, “The Clapham Junction of the East,” “ The Half-way House,” “ The port of cinnamon and tea.” Colombo harbour always presented an enlivening and invigorating spectacle to the visitor. ON THE SHORE Leaving the passenger jetty, the tourist, or transit visitor of a few hours, was confronted with novel forms of activity. Rickshaws, pulled by scantily-clad natives, swarmed, the competition of the motor car providing but a negative influence on this “industry.” Colombo for decades—at any rate since the opening of the Suez Canal —has prided itself on its hostelries. Facing the landing jetty and overlooking the harbour is the comparatively recently constructed Grand Oriental Hotel, familiarly known as the “ G.0.H.” A little further along York Street, running from the jetty, is the Bristol, which earned international repute for the excellence of its lunches. Passing out of the fort, as the commercial section of Colombo is designated, there is the broad oceanfaced space, flanked on the sea-side by a promenade and drive, known as the Galle Face. Here is the enormous hotel bearing the same name, which has for long enjoyed world-wide fame. Seven miles down the coast another celebrated establishment, built on a bold headland, the Mount Lavinia Hotel, has always been a favourite rendezvous for residents and visitors alike, who there learn something of the delightful dishes the fish caught off the island provide, thanks to the culinary art of native chefs.

DIVERSITY OF ORIENTAL LIFE

Colombo itself presents almost every aspect of Oriental life. The native quarter the Pettah furnishes a study for the New Zealand visitor and at the same time a theme for contemplation. In recent years much has been accomplished by the Municipal Council to bring considerable sections more into conformity with modern or “ Western ” conceptions. Still, as Eastern conditions are, as they always have been, largely static, the Pettah retains much of its old-time charm.

The fashionable quarter of Colombo is the Cinnamon Gardens,' lying south and east of the Galle Face Hotel. This locality derives its name from the fact that many years ago the cinnamon tree was cultivated there. Elegant' bungalows, beauti-fully-kept gardens, well-shaded roads, are eloquent not of the wealth of the European and educated native communities alone, but of the comforts

with which they have surrounded themselves. RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS Colombo possesses some splendid buildings erected by votaries of various religions which flourish within its bounds. The finest Christian edifice is the basilica of St. Lucia, topping the heights of Mutural to the left of the harbour as the ship enters. This great church—a replica, in miniature, of St. Peter’s at Rome, save for the dome—is not only the largest Roman Catholic ecclestiastical edifice in the East, but also the largest Christian place of worship. There are two splendid mosques and Buddhist and ■Hindu temples. Education and religion go hand in hand. The great publie schools are the Royal College, a Government institution, St. Thomas’ College (Anglican), Wesley College, and St. Joseph’s’ College (Roman Catholic). Buddhists have latterly displayed much enterprise in providing higher educational facilities for the children of parents of that faith, and the same is true of Mahometans. University College, the nucleus of the university to come, is the coping stone of education as it exists in Ceylon. The Medical College takes high rank among similar institutions in other parts of the world.

Colombo is a great commercial and industrial centre, as is evidenced by tea-packeting factories, mills for preparing the multiple “ virtues ” of the coconut into manufactured articles of commerce, furniture works, engineering establishments, ship building, and, to revert to the harbour, of peculiar import at present, a magnificent graving dock capable of accommodating most vessels able to navigate the Suez Canal. The business core -of Colombo is Fort Ward. Once, in the days of Portuguese and Dutch occupation, surrounded by a wall, a small portion remaining near the butt of the south-west breakwater, the business establishments here are for the most part housed in palatial buildings, and Australian and New Zealand visitors note with pride the finest of all, the great building of the National Mutual Life Association, situated at the corner of Chatham and Princes Streets, adjacent to the somewhat imposing square tower from the top of which flashes the Fort light for shipping. Another outstanding structure in the Fort is Australia Building, a further proof of Australian enterprise.

Colombo is a monument to British enterprise. In the century and a quarter it has been under British guidance its growth has been phenomenal. That it should be regarded to-day, in the light of current movements, with anxiety is natural.