NEWFOUNDLAND PIONEER

Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 60, Issue 4231, 15 January 1940, Page 3

NEWFOUNDLAND PIONEER

THE FIRST EXPLORATION OF THE INTERIOR. (By Alan A. Gillis.) In the year 1822, William Eppes Cormack, a Scots-Newfoundlander, made a venturesome and exploratory journey, through the wild and then practically unknown interior of Newfoundland. Added to its exploratory side, the trip had humanitarian incentives as well—the aim being to attempt establishing friendly relations i with the aboriginal inhabitants, the Boethucks, or Red Indians. The effort, unfortunately, failed in the latter purpose. But the story of the explorer’s courageous accomplishment is regarded as a classic in local literature, and, to use the words of .Prof. A. Bruton, M.A., Litt.D., “a priceless heritage for the children • of the island.” Cormack, of Scottish descent, was born in St. John’s, where his father was said to be a prosperous business man, in the year 1796. He had an adventurous and trail blazing spirit, and apart from his explorations in Newfoundland, he cultivated tobacco in Australia, and farmed on an extensive scale in New Zealand. His last years were spent in California and British Columbia, where he died at New Westminster, in 1868. While pursuing his education in Scotland, Cormack had as tutor Prof. Robert Jameson, from whom it is believed he acquired considerable knowledge of botany, minerology and geology, and not the least interesting part, in the account of his expedition across Newfoundland, is his description of the fauna and flora encountered. His account of geological formations and the indications of minerals surely points to considerable knowledge of these subjects as well as to a keenness of observation. DANGEROUS UNDERTAKING. In his narration of the journey Cormack states that the chief Government authority was opposed to his attempting to penetrate the interior of the country on account of the danger of such an undertaking. The trip, which was made through the interior from east to west, began at Random Bar, in Trinity Bay, and ended at Sealy Rocks, in St. George’s Bay. During the journey which commenced on September 5 and occupied 59 days, Cormack had as companion Joseph Sylvester, a Micmac Indian, in whose honour he nahied one of the peaks seen on the journey. More than a little trouble was experienced with the Indian, who. time and again as they were reduced to semi-starvation owing to the scarcity of game, desired to abandon the objective and make for the more easily gained south coast. Besides the necessary equipment only enough food to last upwards of a week could be carried. After that travellers had to live off the country; and it was common belief that the inner country bristled with perils both from wild beasts and Indians. Having made their way through tangled and dense woods, brooks, and over marshes, they eventually gained the comparatively level country above and obtained their first view of the interior on September 11. Lovely vistas of primeval beauty now was spread out before them. Cormack soys: ‘‘lt is impossible to describe the richness and grandeur of the scenery.” The plains or barrens (Cormack called them savannas) stretched north and south in undulating beds, their void beauty no doubt being enhanced by the usual brilliant September sunshine —with running water and lakes interspersed. Their yellowgreen surfaces were imprinted in practically every direction by deer roads and sometimes were seen unmarred by tree, rock, or shrub for more than ten miles. The going was slow and arduous, averaging not more than six or seven miles each day, owing to the detours made to avoid the many lakes and to their examination of the area. SAVANNAS. The barrens (savannas) were described, also their nature and formation. Their surfaces, composed mostly of green mosses and sparse growing wiry grasses were said to remain moist even through the dry summers, but were hard underneath. Their peat soils, resting at various depths on solid rock, were centuries old accumulations of plant life which in the run of time had lost their first nature and turned a black colour. Rocks protruding in places were “transition clay slate, mica slate and granite.” Cormack says: “We were nearly a month travelling over one savanna after another.” He wrote interestingly of the wild life, the caribou, beaver, geese, ducks and trout seen and killed to furnish them with sustenance. He told of “berry spots” in the interior where native black bears gathered in order to feed on the plentiful fruit, and mentions how in places even the rocks in their paths were worn smooth by the creatures’ feet. Each day since entering the interior, they had kept a sharp watch for sight of the Red Indians, but only one day had their attention been arrested by a man’s tracks. The first week in October the nights were becoming frosts and the various autumnal tints were on plant and tree. About this time they came by a ridge which Cormack named JameMountains, in honour of his

friend and tutor. Prof. Jameson, of Edinburgh. On October 12, while viewing a large lake to the southwest, they descried a wisp of smoke issuing from among the trees, on an island to the South. Excitement ran high as they imagined the encampment to be that of the Red Indians, but it was too late in the day to reconnoitre. As they were without food the Micmac went after deer, hoping to procure meat for supper, both agreeing to meet later at a designated place. Sylvester failed to put in an appearance and Cormack was afraid to light a fire, fearing it might draw the attention of the camps across the lake.

About noon next day, as his companion had not shown up, Cormack made his way to the lake shore feeling lone and deserted. He fired his gun, surmising that should the encampment be that of Red Indians they would flee at the sound. To his great relief and reassurance, an answering gunshot came to him from across the lake. In about an hour his Indian appeared and explained that having shot a stag several miles away he attempted to make around the lake to find out something about the island encampment. The distance proved too great and darkness coming on he was forced to spend the night in the woods. INDIAN MOUNTAINEER. Shortly afterwards they espied a man in a canoe—unmistakably an Indian paddling toward them. He proved to be of the Mountaineer tribe —a native of the Labrador—who cordially greeted Cormack and kissetj the Micmac. They entered the canoe, which was made of “wicker work” covered with skins, flesh side out, and presently arrived at the Mountaineer’s island camp—a game locality of sylvan beauty. There they beheld his wife busily engaged sewing together skins to renew the outside of the canoe. They had previously been welcomed by a large Newfoundland dog, the woman’s only companion during her husband’s absence. By the Mountaineer (James John) and his wife the weary travellers were hospitably treated and they remained several days eating and resting. This lake was called by the Indians Meelpaeg, or crooked lake, but Cormack named it Jameson’s Lake. From now on, owing to increasing cold, the rough going more than ever taxed the explorers’ strength. On October 15 snow began to fall, and next morning the ground was covered to a depth of about three feet. The provisions were all consumed, and that same night a storm of wind harrassed the district, uprooting many large trees near their camp. On the 18th the snow had gone down about a foot, and forsaking their camp site they toilsomely laboured onward through open spaces, woods and brooks. Finally, to their joy, they came upon some marten deadfalls—those of an Indian party who the Mountaineer had informed them were in that vicinity. Emerging from a thicket they sighted the encampment. The Indians were Micmacs (natives of Newfoundland), and Sylvester kissed both males and females. Food was soon presented but Cormack, at first, could partake of but little in his famished and exhausted condition.

Cormack learnt, with considerable anxiety, that they were still about ten days travel from St. George’s Bay. These Indians informed Cormack that the resorts of the Red Indians were some ten to fifteen miles farther to the north, and that the Indians were likely then to be at Red Indian Lake, where they procured their winter supply of venison.

The weather having improved Cormack and his Indian resumed their way. The country became more mountainous as they progressed, and nearly without food. The caribou were more plentiful; also the marsh and partridge berries. The ground was red with berries Ln places, and were improved by the cold weather. The following day, October 22, a black bear was sighted about a mile away, and after some manoeuvring they shot the bruin, which was very fat, and Cormack estimated weighed around 350 pounds. Flesh of the bear, Cormack stated, is liked by many of the Indians next to that of the beaver, as if even generous quantities are partaken of it will not distress the stomach. They remained here two days resting and feasting. BAD WEATHER. On October 24 wintry weather struck the area, freezing the ponds. During the next four or five days Cormack and his companion probably experienced the most distressful and difficult portion of their march. Of wood there was barely enough to light a fire, and for three nights running they could not find a dry piece of ground to sleep upon. Nearing the southern portion of a big lake they observed a low islet which seemed alive with large gulls. Cormack says: “I named this lake in honour of a friend at the bar in Edinburgh, ‘Wilson’s Lake.’ ” The following day, approaching a ridge, which they thought might be the last between them and the sea coast, they were greatly encouraged to observe smoke rising out of a wood. 'They supposed that the camp might be that of a timber party from St. George’s Bay, and were jubilant at the prospect of reaching the camp across the lake. It soon became plain that those in the camp distrusted them, as none of its inmates would show themselves. As they fired off

guns and made other friendly gestures, the camp party were satisfied that they were neither Red Indians nor enemies, and launching a canoe, two “pretty” Indian girls paddled across for them.

Cormack unceremoniously saluted the Indian maidens in the customary Indian style (kissed them) and he and Sylvester accompanied them to their camp. They were a family of Indians named Gabriel, one man, four women and three children, and they were about three months out from St. George’s Bay on a hunting and trapping trip here as both caribou and firewood were easy to secure. None of the party understood any English. The head of the party was out hunting, and on his return Cormack, through his interpreter, learnt that they were yet about sixty miles from St. George’s Bay, which lay in a north west direction. This information appears to have convinced Cormack that latterly his Indian had taken him on the wrong course. Gabriel consented to accompany them over the remainder of the way, and without losing time they once more set out. ANIMALS AS FOOD. Bad weather compelled them to camp on October 31. They shot a hare of Arctic species, snowy white all but the black tips of the tail and ears. Large hares, Cormack stated, weigh upwards of 14 pounds, and were then the only kind in the island. In his journey Cormack had met thousands of deer, all hastening to the eastward on their periodical migration.

An incident which threw light on the independent and stoical character of the Indian occurred as they were crossing the ice on a lake. Sylvester broke through and although apparently in some danger the other Micmac merely looked on laughing at his struggles. Cormack was rebuking Gabriel lor his seeming callous indifference when Sylvester replied: “Master, it is all right. Indian rather die than live owing his life’ to another.” They travelled over hills, lakes and marshes, crossed the sources of several rivers, one of which was the branch water of the Exploits, the largest river in the island. They put up on October 31 at a lake said to be the i most southerly water frequented by the Red Indians. This Cormack named His Majesty King George the IV. —in honour of the then reigning sovereign.

The next day, from the height of a snow laden ridge, they descried St. George’s harbour and there they arrived on November 2. There were no inhabitants, but the nailed-up houses of some Micmacs, who were then away on a hunting trip in the interior, the white residents being on the opposite side of the harbour. Being desperately in want of food they broke into one of the houses and were rejoiced to find six barrels of salted fish, cod, halibut and eels and two barrels of maize or Indian corn meal. Thanks to a remarkably provident Indian their troubles, as regards the procuring of provisions, were happily at an end, for the Micmac displayed a hospitable spirit on his return. Cormack won the. honour of being the first and last white man ever to cross the widest interior of New-foundland—-a distance of approximately 300 miles. Five years later he made another expedition into the interior, this time up the Exploits, in a second attempt to discover and make friends with the fast vanishing Boethucks. He had no more success than on the former occasion, but about this time he formed a local society for the protection and preservation of the Red men, and for several years, 1828 and 1829, the last existing member of the unlucky tribe Shandithit, was kept in his home in St. John’s and she is said to have drawn remarkable sketches depicting last scenes in the life of her people.

Cormack’s original narrative was first brought out by an Edinburgh publishing house, and a copy,of his book is said to be still in the British Museum.