THE GARDEN

Te Aroha News, Volume XLI, Issue 6410, 3 November 1923, Page 6

THE GARDEN

VEGETABLE CULTURE. By W. H. Taylor, in the Journal of Agriculture; In former notes it has been suggested that broccoli may very well be omitted in the warmest districts, Cauliflowers been grown to take their place. The diamond-backed moth makes it difficult to grow broccoli in shell places, as they must be planted when the moth are in full force. In other districts broccoli cannot be dispensed with. The moth is likely to cause some damage in any locality, but the risk must be taken. In any case it will not be so serious a trouble as in warmer districts, mostly disappearing when autumn rains set in. The writer' has been successful in preventing damage by the moth by giving the plants an early start, so as to secure good sized plants before the moths become numerous —usually some little way into the New Year. With this object in view all the varieties to be grown should 5 be sown at the same time—about the last week in October. The plants should be given every chance to make quick growth, qjid should be planted as soon as they are large enough. Good cultivation should be afforded, and a little nitrate of sodagiven to .help them along. The plants' should then be strong before the moths are troublesome, and if the latter do some damage to the outer leaves it will not matter if -the growing centre is protected. This can done by dropping a little hellebore pow&er on the heart of each plant. The hellebore will remain in position a long time. Rain will dissolve some of it and wash it.farther in, but it flakes a lot of rain to wash it out. Two or three applications at most will see the plants safely through. Early, midseason, and late varieties should be grown, and though started together will mature in the proper sequence. Cauliflower of a giant kind should now be sown to give heads for use in autumn before broccoli come in. Brussels Sprouts also should be sown, a long season of growth being necessary to obtain good crops. French beans may be sown in all localities early in October, or somewhat earlier in extra-warm and frostfree places, where butter-beans may also be sown. For the cooler districts Canadian Wonder or varieties of the same type are best. Where broad beans were sown in June, or near that time, another sowing may be made in October, these two sowings being sufficient for the season. Runner beans should be sown early in October. To maintain a constant succession peas should be sown twice every month. ■» Lettuce should from now on be sown thinly in lines, the surplus seedlings being pulled out and plants for the crop left standing. Seeds for the main crop of leeks should be sown during the last half of September. Sow in lines and transplant when Binor 9in high. In the colder districts winter crops of parsnips, carrots and red beet should be sown in October, in middle districts during the first week in November, and two or three weeks) later in the warmer parts. Turnips should be sown in small lots during the summer season, sowing a fresh lot about every seven weeks. Increasing supplies of winter rhubarb on the market during the past winter show that the culture of this variety is extending. There is no doubt it can be made a profitable crop in all but the coldest districts. New beds may be formed by sowing seeds about the month of October, or by division of old stools. It is advisable to divide the old L stools when they get too large, as- the sticks are otherwise ' liable to come too small. A good time to lift the old stools i§ when the first crop of the summer variety comes into use. The stools should be cut up into pieces carrying one or two good crowns. All large leaves should be cut off, leaving only newly sprouting young leafstalks. Transplanting should be done at once on fresh ground previously prepared. Success with onions largely depends on the attention given in the early stages. Timely - thinning and thorough cultivation are important factors. A dressing of nitrate of soda, allowing abt. aoz per square yard (approximately 2cwt per acre), will have a marked effect on growth. The nitrate can be eacily applied if mixed with dry wood-ashes. Tomatoes: In the warmest districts planting-out will have been already done, but in most places planting is not done till the end of October or early in November. The soil should be prepared a few weeks before planting. Where green crops are to be ploughed in, the green matter should be allowed time to get through the first stages of decay before planting is done. It is now a well ascertained fact that the black-stripe- disease,

which has caused many losses, is mainly due to the excessive use of nitrogenous manures and fertilisers, including stable dung. The use of stable dung should be avoided. Suitable fertilisers are superphosphate, sulphate of potash, and sulphate of ammonia, allowing Soz of the formei and loz of each of the others for each plant.

SMALL FRUITS

Raspberry: The disease known as raspberry anthracnose (Gloesporum venetum) is fairly prevalent, and has caused the loss of crops. Correspondents have informed us that they have saved their crops by applying the remedies advised, where previously the crops were a total loss. The remedy is to spray with 4 1 Id bor deaux mixture when the young leave:: begin to unfold, and again about a week before the blossoms begin to open. When the crop has been gathered the old canes should lie cut out and the young canes sprayed as before. As an alternative spray limesulphur can be used, 1 in 10 for the first and 1 in 40 for subsequent applications. Bordeaux should have preference, as it has been proved to be effective. The disease first /attacks the base of young canes, showing as purplish blotches on the canes. If gradually works its way up the cane. The blotches later assume a greyish colour, with a purple rim around them. It is in the second or fruitbearing year that the damage is done. If the disease has been able to run its natural course it then attacks the fruit-bearing laterals and leaves thereon, and causes the fruit to shrivel up. Gooseberries: If mildew is present, or the bushes are affected wilth leafspot, spray with 4—4—40 bordeaux as soon as the fruit is set.