WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24649, 22 January 1942, Page 7

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

RIWHI

WORK FOR JANUARY

GLASSHOUSE AND FRAME Never allow the glasshouse to become stuffy and hot. Keep temperatures as even as possible and see that the air is circulating freely without causing draughts. Begonias will soon be at their best, but they must always have the most careful attention to maintain flowering over a long period. Continue to treat indoor tomatoes as recommended a fortnight ago. Tops may be stopped back at any time now. Glasshouse seedlings and perennial seedlings in frames must be given constant attention. Cinerarias and primulas should be potted on as required. Propagation work includes the striking of cuttings of geraniums, pelargoniums, hydrangeas and fuchsias in moist sandy soil in the glasshouse. THE FLOWER GARDEN

Gardeners should aim at a high standard of maintenance throughout the summer and autumn months. Hoeing and hand cultivation with the weeding fork must be included in the weekly routine. Watering will not be necessary, but because of the very moist conditions recently prevailing, it may be necessary to stop back sappy growth on many annuals and even on certain perennials to encourage the more floriferous laterals to break away. Daffodils and other bulbs may be lifted and should be replanted by the end of February. The ordering of spring flowering bulbs should be proceeded with so as to get early delivery and.beds for the bulbs should be thoroughly prepared. Young biennials will be making rather soft and sappy growth. If so they should be stopped back. Constant intercultivation is necessary. Make sowings now of forget-me-not and cheiranthus. In two weeks’ time sow Iceland poppies and antirrhinums for early flowering next season. Staking and tying are still necessary. During this month dahlias, gladioli, perennial phlox, Michaelmas daisies, hollyhocks, carnations and sweetpeas will need attention. The long growths on climbers will also need to be tied in to trellis or fence.

Propagation work may be done with softwood cuttings, the budding of roses and the layering of carnations. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Sowings may be made as follows: Lettuce, spring onion, golden ball turnip, silver beet, winter or pricky spinach and a small sowing of spring cabbage. Plantings will include late celery, leeks, savoys, drumhead cabbage, kale. Especially while moist conditions continue surface cultivation must be persisted with at every available opportunity. Keep the surface loose among the rows of winter greens. Resow and replant all ground becoming vacant so as to have ample supplies of winter and spring vegetables. If certain plots are not needed immediately trench them and manure them, liming the surface liberally or else sow them down with such green manure crops as mustard, oats or black barley. Build up the compost heap regularly and persistently, procuring suitable material from every possible source. Spray carrots for greenfly and dust cabbage, broccoli etc., with derris dust against the attacks of the white butterfly and diamond backed moth caterpillars. Carefully stake late peas and see that scarlet runners have stakes of ample height. THE FRUIT GARDEN It may be necessary to spray apples for mildew. Cut old growth out of black currants as soon as the crop has been harvested. Gardeners are reminded that a late variety of black currant—Daniels September — continues the supply until the end of the month. It is a strong grower and prolific. When the raspberry crop has all been picked cut out all the canes that have fruited. This will give the young canes a better chance to mature properly before winter. No plant can vie with the dahlia during February and March, and the diversity of form is as attractive as the brilliance of its display. The older varieties did not have the appeal of the modern flower. There are decoratives, large and small, charms, single mignons, collarettes and pompoms, all with a freedom of blooming that is hard to equal at any time of the year. To people who claim that the first frost sweeps away the display it is possible to reply that many other valued subjects suffer in the same way, for instance, early flowering chrysanthemums, geraniums or cosmos. In larger gardens dahlias are often bedded out in separate colours. Much more interesting beds and borders are made by planting variety in both colour and form. The general idea that dahlias are very gross feeders has led the amateur gardener astray. He does not require exhibition blooms. His plants are for the beautification of his garden, and for indoor decoration. Deep digging and manuring in the autumn previous to planting, the application of lime in the winter, and bonemeal at the time of planting applied at the rate of a handful to each large specimen is ample for the requirements of dahlias. Ample moisture and a sunny site complete the list of conditions necessary for a successful display. YUCCAS Yuccas, which are much in general appearance like giant cabbage trees, are frequently seen in gardens. , They are handsome plants if given ample space and remain fresh and attractive throughout the whole year. One of the commonest is Yucca recurvifolia, a native of the coastal regions of the southeastern United States. It grows 8 or 10 feet high with leaves up to two or three feet long and tapering to a stiff point. The flowers are creamy white and grow in an erect panicle two or three feet high. Yuccas are easily established, but they will not thrive on a heavy wet soil. Give them an open site on a well drained sandy loam. In late summer rhododendrons often suffer a serious setback, more especially in open positions and after heavy flowering. All seed heads should therefore be removed, particularly on small

plants. Wherever possible individual plants or beds should be mulched with leaf mould and well watered in any dry spell of weather. Lawn mowings may be used where better material is not obtainable. No lime must be allowed near the plants. IBISES Irises in their many varieties are always growing jn favour with gardeners, and during the season they have done splendidly in this district. By now all have finished flowering and it is time to tidy up the beds, loosening the surface, applying a light dressing of old compost and of lime. Irises must have lime.

Wherever replanting is to be done the work should be carried out now. The soil in the beds may be replaced with a light loam admixed with old stable manure or old compost, or a new site may be prepared. Again remember liberal additions of lime. Single growths selected from the outsides of clumps should be chosen for

replanting and these should be planted firmly, but not deeply. The plants should be given full sunshine. A good soaking of water will help to establish the young rhizomes, if conditions are dry.