WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24499, 29 July 1941, Page 10

WORK IN THE GARDEN

■ JOTTINGS FOR EARLY i SPRING SNOWDROPS AND CROCUSES 1 By RIWHI One of the most welcome of signs that spring is on the threshold is the flowering of snowdrops and yellow ; crocuses. These hardy yet dainty and • delicate little plants should find a place ' in every garden. They are in bloom at the present time, drifts of gold and drifts of white invoking our admiration . even our affection, because of their . hardihood. The common snowdrop, galanthus nivalis, has grown wild in England for so many centuries that by most it is considered as a native. It is usually quite easy of cultivation, but ' at times seems difficult. It should be 1 planted deeply say 4 or 5 inches in a site that will be neither too dry nor too hot in summer, and where the soil is well drained and rich in humus. There are many varieties of crocus ■ most of them coming from the Medi- ' terranean region. The saffron crocus is grown commercially, its stigmas yielding saffron which is used as a colouring and flavouring agent in cookery and sometimes as a drug. The autumn crocus is a native of England. The yellow crocus is first out usually coming into bloom late in July. It is followed by the white and the blue varieties blooming towards the end of August. Crocus versicolor is an attractive sweet scented variety. Unlike the snowdrop which grows from a perennial bulb the crocus grows ' from a corm or swollen stem. Each year the old corm dies and a new one forms just above. Thick contractile roots help to drag down the new corm into the soil so that it does not, as would be expected, gradually work up to the surface. Because of the fact that the corms renew themselves annually it is most important that after flowering the foliage should be allowed to grow and mature naturally. BULBS IN POTS AND BOWLS These should not be forced on too rapidly or the blooms will be fragile and short-lived. Give them all possible light, and where they are placed with the light to one side they should be turned from day to day. Lachenalia and freesias as well as polyanthus, narcissi will be in bud. Care should be exercised in watering right on throughout the flowering season. Once flowering is over the plants should be gradually hardened off and then with the least possible interference with roots transferred to a nursery plot in the garden and allowed to mature naturally there. SHRUBS FOR EARLY DECORATION Very soon the pussy willows will be at their best. In order to hasten them on a little pick the stems and place them in water in a warm room. Pussy willows should be cut back after flowering so that an abundance of young flowering growths will develop for the following season. In the same way forsythia, japonica, prunus and what is still left of the yellow jasmine may be picked in bud and taken indoors. Garrya elliptica with its beautiful tassel like catkins is becoming deservedly more popular. It is a comparatively rapid grower reaching a height of 12 feet or more, and carries its harvest of tassels consistently every winter. When used for indoor decoration it is most effective. BAD MOVERS With the majority of perennial plants dividing and replanting is a routine that reinvigorates, but with some it means a long period of recovery, and it must be done at the right time and in the right way or disaster follows. For instance the winter roses or hellebores that are in bloom just now resent . root disturbance and take several seasons to recover and bloom after transplanting. The check is made less harmful if the transplanting is carried out in spring when the new foliage is breaking through the soil. Paeonies do much . better if left undisturbed, but of course there will come a time when removal ; is necessary. The transplanting should * be done in late summei- so that the i plants are well established before win- v ter sets in. At the present time a good £ mulching of old compost will greatly benefit paeonies. Red hot pokers and thalictrums although differing in other C

respects agree on the score of resentment at root disturbance. Plant them in sites where they will not be disturbed for a period of years and they will prosper and bloom regularly. Other plants that should not be transplanted more often than is necesI sary include anemone, japonica, orienI tai poppies, gentians and campanulas. In I all cases it is much easier to transplant I young seedling plants which recover and develop more quickly than pieces of old established clumps. The same is true of lilies—young bulbs or seedling ones will settle down in new quarters much better than older bulbs. There are othei’ herbacious plants such as the pyrethrums and scabiosa caucasica that I are much better shifted just as growth is breaking away in the spring. The expert gardener knows the preferences and habits of each species and handles them accordingly. BLUE FLOWERS Pure blue, the blue of gentians, of iris sibirica, of anchusa, of perennial linum or sometimes of delphiniums' is most attractive in the garden especially in the spring when yellows and golds predominate. Iris sibirica, chionodoxa and grape hyacinths will provide blues for early spring while later hyacinths, anemones and forget-me-nots will pro- ; vide sufficient blue to give balance. In summer blues appear in the garden without any special effort but in spring it is always worth while giving special attention to blue shades. Two further points are worthy of note. The first is that the most vivid blues are commonly found among the alpines, and the second that there has always been a search by horticulturists for bluesblue tulips, blue carnations, blue roses. ENVIRONMENT

In making new plantings in winter and early spring great care may be ' taken as to soil and site, but little is ever given to the very important matter of providing a congenial environment. The site may be sheltered and the soil perfectly suited to the needs of the plant so that its rooting system is happy, but what about stems and leaves. There is even a social aspect to the problem in that certain plants grow best in association with others. No plant will prosper if surrounded by a desert of well cultivated soil, yet small sub-alpine or meadow plants are often so planted in the rockery and small shrubs similarly in their domain. The isolation is resented and hot sunshine on the soil at the base of shrub or climber is often harmful. Plants that revel in bright sunshine often require moist, cool rooting conditions. Trouble is often caused in a similar way by pruning shrubs and trees too hard back, thereby exposing to sun and heat the main branches. Main stems in trees and shrubs do not look delicate, but quite often they are hurt by such exposure and the plant languishes and dies. Environment means much more to a plant than is usually supposed, and definite efforts should be made to ensure happy physical and social environments for plants, especially for those that are more difficult of cultivation. CARE AFTER FROST At any time now a spell of mild, windy weather is a possibility. It is therefore, most necessary to make a careful inspection of young plants in both the flowei - beds and the vegetable garden. Frosts have a tendency to lift and loosen any plants that root near the surface or that have been recently transplanted. Tighten up anemones and ranunculi, wallflowers and forget-me-not, violas and even the smaller bulbs, and in the vegtable garden attend to young lettuce, onions and spinach and possibly to young cabbage and peas.