EARLY SOUTHLAND

Southland Times, Issue 22156, 26 October 1933, Page 4

EARLY SOUTHLAND

"The Reconnaissance Survey MR J. T. THOMSON’S DIARY Looking Round in 1857

Stowed away in the archives of the Lands Department, Invercargill, are some interesting records of the earliest days of Invercargill and Southland. They are contained in two of the Fieldbooks of the late Mr J. T. Thomson, Chief Surveyor of Otago, and later Surveyor-General of New Zealand, who selected the site and laid off the town of Invercargill, to-day a city. When quite a young man, Mr Thomson had been appointed in England to the Indian Civil Service, and had taken up his duties as a surveyor at Singapore in the Straits Settlement, eventually becoming Chief Surveyor. At the time of writing these notes he was thirty-five years of age and had been in New Zealand a little over a year. The first dates recorded are at Dunedin Survey Office in July and August 1856, where he was busy, amongst his other duties, in taking observations for latitude and longitude, etc., in preparation for his Reconnaissance Survey of part of the Southern Province of. Otago, which was to occupy his attention during the coming spring and summer. The Field-books (although one is hard to decipher in many places where it has been affected by dampness) set out very clearly his movements and method of obtaining the topographical features of the Province by triangulation from Bluff Hill as a starting point, and making the outstanding peaks of Mount Anglem, Mount Hamilton, the Dome, Ship Cone, and Wyndham Hill (near Windham, or Menzies, as he called it), some of his points of observation. He must have set out from Dunedin about the 18th September, 1856, for on the 14th he notes that he had had his horse shod and stabled, his two telescopes strapped, and a few days later he and one of his men, MacRae by name, on the 19th crossed the Taieri Ferry, on the 21st the Clutha Ferry, and on the 25th, Riko the Maori’s Ferry, at Tuturau. It is interesting to know there were ferries there as early as 1856. Hereabouts he made

a sketch of the Mataura River and its tributaries, and wrote thereon their Maori names, probably obtained from Riko. On the 26th he engaged a man named Hunt to guide his party to Waiopai, as he calls Waihopai, where they evidently arrived soon after, as Hunt and Macßae were mentioned as being at Bluff Town, as it is called, on the 30th. Provisions were now got together for the Survey-party, not only from Bluff, Mokomoko, and Printz’s on the New River, but even from as far distant as Jacobs River, showing evidently that they were unobtainable in Invercargill at that date. Boats were also procured for use in taking soundings and for survey work about the New River Harbour. Several Maoris are mentioned as supplying provisions and boats, and West and Hughes as having a ferry at the Mokomoko. From the beginning of October, 1856, until the middle of November, Mr Thomson was taking systematic soundings and surveying the New River Harbour, the Oreti, Makarewa and Waimatuku, even extending to as far as Jocobs River; and so throughly was the work done that his soundings have been accepted by the' Admiralty and published in the Admiralty Chart of this portion of New Zealand—no mean tribute to a layman. Several sketches are included in the Field-books, the principal one being that of the “First House in Invercargill, the Survey Office”, showing a small log hut surrounded by dense bush, said to have been on the site of the present Court House in Tay Street. Other sketches ih the book ate, “New River from Omawi Hill”, being a view from the New River. Heads showing the site of the present city; “View towards the New River from Bluff Peak”; and a sketch of the Oreti and Makarewa Rivers, with the Puni Creek, Otakau, Waikiwi and Tomborakau Streams showing on it. ' Settlers were there even in those days; Printz on the Oreti River, Clark on the Waikiwi about where it joins the Oreti, Mitchell where Wallacetown now is, MacFarlane further north (now known as Ryal Bush), and Davidson at Pebbly Hills. After surveying at the Bluff Township, Mr Thomson rode back to Dunedin at the end of November, returning to Invercargill again on the 12th of January, 1857, from which date his diary records his impressions on one part . of his Reconnaissance Survey. Later this diary formed a large part of the basis of a paper he wrote up and read on May 10th 1858, entitled “Extracts from a journal kept during the performance of a Reconnaissance Survey of, the Southern District of the Province of Otago, New Zealand”, and was, together with a very complete map to illustrate his explorations, subsequently published in book form, very few copies of which are now available. The Field-books, which will be of great historical interest as the years pass by. belong to the Invercargill Survey Office,and some, .day. should be safely; housed and cared .for by the City authorities. . . ‘ '' The following, is the Diary: JANUARY, 1857. Monday sth:—(At Dunedin.) Engaged Peter Lindsay to proceed with me to the Southern Province. Monday 12th:—We started from Dunedin at 10 a.m. on Tuesday and arrived at Invercargill on Sunday at 3 p.m. The weather was variable during the journey but on the whole favourable, excepting on Sunday when it blew a

furious gale with squalls of rain from the west, and as the wind was directly in our path we had a very uncomfortable ride again to the Waiopai (Wai-' hopai) Plains. To-day we have passed in preparing for a start to-morrow morning. No men have offered yet for service—lnvercargill is quite deserted and it would not appear unlikely that I will have to proceed to Campbelltown to enga'ge men. To-day the weather has been squally and rainy from the west.

Tuesday, 13th:—Cleaning and preparing instruments. Engaged Drummond at 10/- a day to proceed on the survey. He promised to join in a day or two. No other men to be procured for the survey—a pack-horse offered for 10/- a day and small boat for 5/-. Weather gloomy and showery, but calm.

Wednesday, 14th:—This day being wet, no progress could be made; but the evening having cleared up, I hope to make a start to-morrow.

Thursday, 15th:—This morning announced fine, favourable weather. Drummond arrived at 10,and I obtained sufficient observations with my instruments so as to test them during the morning and at noon—am therefore prepared to start at first turn of tide. The tide was high enough to allow us to cross the bar of the little creek that winds its course through the centre of the new town of Invercargill. The wind was strong and favourable but the boat proved very leaky and illfound. We had not set sail above a minute before the mast and sail fell overboard carrying away the thwarts and step. Having repaired damages we hoped for better fortune. Sailed down the broad estuary of the Waiopai (Waihopai) and entered the.narrow, and intricate channels of the Grit (Oreti) or New River. This we ascended 7 or 8 miles and camped at Printz’s at dusk. To the right of the Grit is a sandy tract exposed to the fury of the S.W. winds —to the left a fertile district. The

Orit finds its way into the sea at the New River heads after meandering many miles in the proximity of the sea shore—but the sandhills thrown up by the westerly winds evidently have allowed of no earlier egress into the ocean until the ' projecting land of Omawi head is reached. Here a narrow but deep channel leads the waters of the Orit and Waiopai out near the protection of the iron bound promontory above mentioned. The day has been fine throughout. Drummond brought me some gold scales mixed with emery which he had washed out of the sands of the Mataura—the former I tested by the blow pipe and aqua regia. Various parties have been digging at different parts of the Waiopai Plains and found the earth giving indications of gold. Friday, 16th:—We started this morning at half past four and reached the Tomoborakau Creek at eight, where we breakfasted. Here I left Drummond in charge of the boat and property and started with Lindsay. (Whip.—ln England this is the amusement of children, but here to crack a whip is an accomplishment put to serious use—a whole herd of untamed horned brutes tremble at its rifle-like sound as they are driven to the yard to be branded or for slaughter.) Saturday, 17th:—This morning commenced with rain and continued with slight showers till one, when the weather became hot and fine. We started at eight and took our course towards the east of Forest Hill, which we reached.

Monday, 19th:—Slept last night on the bank of the Tomoborakau Creek, which is overhung with dense forest, or bush, as it is termed here. Lindsay caught five eels, measuring two to three feet long. This was fortunate.. Flax is a most useful plant; it and fern, whose roots are edible, must comprise all the products given by the cocoanut, so useful to the natives of tropical countries, particularly the Islands and Atolls of Polynesia and India. We traversed the terrace land towards the Waimatuck (Waimatuku), taking observations with the theodolite at intervals, and arrived at the Futtah in the wet at 8 p.m. pretty well knocked up. Grass on the terrace generally good. Wednesday, 21st:—We started from the worry (whare) at 6 a.m., and landed on the river bank Under the forest to breakfast at 8, during the interval of a heavy squall and rain. It blew heavily with showers and squalls all day and vze had some difficulty in making the Mokomoko. Dined at Wills’ and walked over to the Bluffarrived at 7 p.m. Here we found the people out of provisions, so no one wanted to take us into their houses. As a last resource, we got permission to sleep in the half-built jail and, having got a few pounds of wheat, we had it ground and made our supper of if. Thursday, 22nd:—To-day commenced with hazy weather but clear overhead so as to enable me to take observations for latitude, time, and meridian, but the hills in this return were entirely obscured. The heat was great in the sum but the thermometer indicated only 56 in the shade. The sandflies in the heat flew about in myriads, attacking every part of the skin exposed, making the taking of the long process of observations by circummeridional alts, a painful and teasing operation. No stars out to-night. Friday 23rd:—To-day employed in obtaining another set of circummerid-

ional alts, for latitude. The day has been so hazy and windy that no bearings of the hills can be had. Saturday, 24th:—On the peninsula —(Bluff) the formation is to be observed in many places—this consists of plutonic and metamorphosed rocks carrying fine granit and gneiss to clay slates and indurated shales. The strike is generally N.W. and S.E. and dip perpendicular. The magnet is much affected in various parts—remarkably so on the top of Bluff Hill, observations of the bearing of Mt. Hamilton, showing a disturbance of no less than 56 degrees 20 minutes in the space of 60ft. The stone abounds with iron ore but I found no specimen that affected the needle. On the plains the variation is 16 degrees 30 minutes. The peninsula is well wooded in parts and is covered with inferior grass—fern and flax in others. We observed in the woods the beautiful bright crimson tint given to the foliage by the flowering of the iron-wood tree. To the east an extensive tract runs eastward to the Toe Toes or Mataura River and bounding the morass and still water lagoons. It extends seven miles inland and 20 miles along the shore. Sunday, 25th:—Arrived at Invercargill this morning and rested for the day. Weather was fine. Monday, 26th:—Day commenced fine but wet afternoon—employed in reducing my observations preparatory to planning. Engaged pack-horse from Mr Cubbin for £1 a week and sent Drummond to Mataura to fetch it. Propose to set out for the interior of the Hokanuis on Thursday. . Tuesday, 27th:—To-day employed in reducing observations to plan. The weather was warm and fine in the morning—afternoon showery with gentle wind at west.

Wednesday, 28th:—Drummond having obtained Mr Cubbin’s pack-horse from Mataura, we are ready to start tomorrow. To-day has been fine—showery in the morning.

MAORI OVENS.

INTERESTING OBSERVATIONS. Thursday, 29th:—VZe started for further prosecution of the survey to-day, and arrived at Half Way Bush about 15 miles north-east of Invercargill. The country passed over carried an inferior grass but L most agreeably interspersed with forest and clumps of forest. The face of the country is slightly undulating, having a general rise to the Hokanui Hills, a picturesque group bounding the plains to the northward. Today I noticed on the path a Maori oven and this may be a good opportunity to take notice of these relics of bygone days, as the kettle and pot of Brougham have taken their place. The oven consists of a round hole dug in the ground about 4 to 5 feet in diameter and the same depth. Around the edges pebbles and stones are arranged. The system of cooking in these ovens was the same as often described by voyagers in Polynesia, so needs no remarks at my hands. What I have to do with is the oven as a monument of bygone days. Those with the mounds of earth thrown up against roots of the fallen trees of the forest seem to be the only monuments of the past of New Zealand, at least this southern portion of it—and pigmy as they may appear when considered by those who have viewed the colossal monuments of ancient Egypt and Rome, have to the present occupier of this distant corner of the earth to-day a lesson fraught with the most intense interest. The mounds of red earth to be seen all over the prairie lands in every state of preservation or dilapidation, from the freshly prostrate tree with its tons of earth sticking to the exposed roots, its simple mound and contiguous _ hole, prove that over the whole interior of this part of New Zealand a dense and massive forest waved its sombre branches. The gradual extermination of the forest may be seen going on at this present day by any observer. The grass by which the stones are covered catches fire and spreads to the edges of the forest where the drier surrounding copse exists, to destroy a fringe of the primeval forest. Natural grass grows up in three years or more from time of firing. Little collections of pebbles all over the plains deposited by Maoris in making their ovens—not the gizzards of the Moa—whirlwinds might cause these collections, as numerous pebbles are constantly met with. Maoris used to collect pebbles to roast small birds, etc. The Maori oven also seen in all parts of the plains in places where, ten miles around, no bush exists and no others close to the proximity of bush or forest —proves the gradual extirpation of the forest and the introduction of man and his handiwork. The Maori oven is necessarily placed close to the forest for the sake of fuel. This being the case, we may safely agree that where the ovens are found near the bush these are of recent construction, and those that are far from the same are of ante date, This I consider will hold generally true, though in the case of ovens being found at 7 to 10 miles from bush may simply prove that clumps had been there at a recent date. Friday, 30th:—To-day camped 6 to 8 miles in a north-west direction, taking observations at intervals —also some miles south. The country passed over bears good grass. The day has been windy but generally pleasant.

Saturday, 31st:—To-day commenced with rain and dull weather but cleared up at one. I started at 8 and proceeded 10 miles north from our encampment across the country now occupied by Mr Davidson, and proceeded along the banks of the Makarewa and had a fine view of the valley out of which it flows. The country passed over has generally inferior grass mixed with rushes, indicating a wet soil. The valley of the Makarewa by telescope seems to be much covered with scrubby patches, indicating a cattle, rather than a sheep country. The place where it debouches into the Waiopai Plains is much troubled with swamps. Altogether, though the valley has a most pleasant appearance, it does not bring forth the same feeling from the stock-owner. The Makarewa seems to collect all its waters from the Hokanuis—unless a very small branch runs closely parallel to the Orit to the east end of the Taringatura Downs. This must be examined. The Hokanui Hills have a most picturesque appearance, with their partly bare and partly wooded tops and slopes and spurs, with their grassy and well-watered outlays making them simple glades for the occupation of man. At present not a footprint is to be seen. On many parts of the ground dead trees were passed, all indicating a very recent occupation by the forest. The hills, are covered with quartz pebbles and I picked up a curious piece of schistose rock uncommonly like petrified wood.; The hillocks accoutred by the fall of dead trees were curious features on the plain to-day, the tops generally having collections of pebbles which had been drawn out of the subsoil -long with the clay adhering to the roots.

FEBRUARY 1857. Sunday, Ist:—Removed out to Oteramika bush. Day commenced mild and dull—but ended with rain and wind. Bush caught fire close to our tent and we saved all our articles with the greatest difficulty. The tent has had small holes burnt in it in many parts—otherwise no damage done.

Monday, 2ndWe started at 8 a.m. southward holding our course to the west of the Oteramika Bush, and proceeded down to East Point of the large bay in the Black Forest. From there we proceeded eastward to the edge of the high terrace, and descending it, returned through the low ground at the foot of it. The ground is generally slightly undulating at the west of the Oteramika bushes, the hollows being creeks running west and south. The grass is good and superior round the south of the bushes. The land below the Terrace is generally swampy and covered with rough snow-grass, tussocks, etc. To-day a woodhen was shot. It is a bird between the size of the partridge and pheasant, with feathers of the colour of the peasant. It does not fly, having such small wings as to be useless for the purpose. On its wings are horny spurs which it uses in attack and defence. All its strength is in its hinder-quarters, supported by stout legs which enable it to run with great rapidity. It frequents the brush-wood of the forest and darts through its mazes with the greatest facility. One of the wild birds frequenting this forest was noticed to be uncommonly like the thrush, but the song was wanting. The morning and forenoon were raining and windy, the afternoon fine. The Maoris, kill the bird at night. They kindle a fire in the forest which attracts them, then, taking advantage of their fighting disposition, they place a red rag tied to the end of a stick before the bird. This it attacks, when the Maori, unobserved, strikes it down with a stick. Tuesday, 3rd:—To-day commenced cold, wet and windy, but settled down to a fine, mild evening. We started at 6 a.m. for Devellins Bush and Drummond was sent for provisions to Invercargill. In the afternoon I examined the first and middle terrace on Devellins River. The grass is superior but a good deal infested with the speargrass. The plains above each terrace have a magnificent expanse, and well might they have excited the cupidity of the sheep-stealer MacKenzie who took up his abode in this bush, of which remnants in a warry and small crop of potatoes still remain. The plan he adopted was a bold one—to carry sheep through the interior from Canterbury. On Mr Devellin visiting the hut, he saw pannikins, plates, etc., sufficient for four men. It is evident that MacKenzie must have had sharers in his enterprise.

Wednesday, 4th:—Passed over the country to the South of Devellin's Bush and adjoining the Mataura, and proceeded as far as the Seaward belt, where further progress was impossible owing to the forest here joining the Mataura. The land passed over was flat dry plains, being excellent natural grass well mixed with the spear-grass. To the south the grass became coarser. The high and middle terrace ground about 9 miles below Devellins and about 3 miles further the high terrace approaches within half a mile of the east bank of the Mataura. The valley formed by these is covered with bush and the lower terraces show indications of occasional floodings. The day has been fair but windy from west. Viewed from the high terrace the plains of the Mataura have a magnificent aspect, the wide expanse of plain being diversified by the picturesque groups of the Hokanuis beyond them, with the Mataura, a river as large. as the Tweed, meandering down their eastern edge. -Monday, 9th:—We started at 8 a.m. and kept along the edge of the high terrace until we reached the Waimumu, a stream coming out of the Hokanuis and falling into the Mataura two miles above Tuturau. This we reached by three, where we rested an hour. North of the Waimumu the high terrace breaks into numerous long valleys so as no longer to bear the character of a terrace—and the water shed is close to the banks of the Waimumu. We arrived at Mr MacNab’s shearing tent at 7 p.m. Camped for the night To-day has been very fine and warm and sunshiny. The pasture on the country passed over is good but coarse—and at the foot of the Hokanuis the soil indicates cold and wet. The scenery is magnificent—the broad plains and terraces stretching away to the south and the bold configuration of the Hokanuis to the north. The Ship Cone which here has a pyramidal form from its base to its peak, in height not less than 2072 ft, forms a grand object in the panorama. The Hokanuis are timbered half way up their sides on their southern aspect. Tuesday, 10th:—To-day commenced blowy from west with driving showers and continued so to midday, when it gradually settled to calm weather. I started at 8 a.m. ranging westward along the foot of the mountains, and returned at 1. Started again at 2 for the Mataura, examining the part where it bends westward and north of the Hokanuis. Got to the tent at six. The terraces go in a short way below the tent. The parts of the high terrace going in with the eastern end of the Hokanuis. The Mataura flows also under the eastern range of hills, which are merely a continuation of the Hokanuis, tho’ here this junction is broken. These hills continue in almost a straight line to the Nuggets on the east coast near the mouth of the Molyneux River. Before quitting this part a few remarks are due to the peculiarity of these terraces that bound the two fertile flats called the Mataura Plains. Excepting at the falls and below them, nowhere have I observed the geological structure apparent. Here the first terrace is proved to be tertiary in the beds of. recent shales, limestone and coal—which latter is not of good quality, having more the structure of lignite. In the coal beds and accompanying strata fossil fems are abundant. It is more than probable that both the 2nd and higher terraces are of the same for-

mation, but in their undulating and rounded contour no cliffs are to be seen to prove this. In absence of this proof it would be out of the question to speculate with certainty as to the mode of action that produced these remarkable plains and terraces. If the several terraces are of the same formation then unequal sinking or upheaval would have produced the physical configuration. I suggest this as I am not inclined to think that the river could have worn away these bounding terraces and laid out the plains in their present plateau—indeed, excepting in the, lower terrace, no tracks of river beds are to be met with, and in the lower terrace where these appear they are of very recent geological date and the action is yet going on. The falls of Mataura are too beautiful a sight not to call attention. The whole river falls over a bed of limestone 20 feet high, and if viewed when the river is flooded, which was the case when I saw them, the spectacle is truly magnificent. The falls have cut their way through the rocks for upwards of a mile and were the deterioration of the rock accurately noted after certain periods then would we have a clue to the age of this part of New Zealand in its present state, in the manner of Lyall on an analagous subject with respect to the falls of Niagara. The formation over the ground to-day was trappean and allied rocks with augmentation of trap tuff—often found in these formations. The grass is abundant but course. Soil wet and cold. Wednesday, 11th:—We started this morning at 8, reaching and keeping along the eastern end of the Hokanuis. Here the Mataura comes close to the foot of the hills, then turns northward. We got in the upper plains by 2 o’clock and journeyed till 7, when we camped under the edge of the terrace. Here also appeared a higher and lower terrace, as further down. Drummond shot a duck, an acceptable event, as we have been living on bread and tea for several days. The formation of the country passed through has been trap, porphyry and allied rocks. The pasture superior. The northern face of the Hokanuis is divested of forest. The whole country, while being excellent pasture, wants the requisite bush for fire-wood. Weather very fine.

Thursday, 12th:—The morning commenced drizzly rain. We started today and had a miserable journey of twelve miles. We camped in the rain at the gorge of the Waimea. It cleared up at 5 and the evening is calm and beautiful. The country passed over bears superior grass but much affected with scrub. The formation of the hills is trap. The view is magnificent, very mountainous to the north, with extensive plains of upper Mataura to the south. The Waimea is a beautiful pebbly stream. The gorges of the mountain have generally accessible timber. We shot several ducks and feasted on them. The two branches of the Waimea come out of the Dome and East Dome (later Mr Thomson mentions that the Waimea turns out to be the Mataura), the Mataura between the White Umbrella and East Dome range. The mountains are inaccessible to horses and are covered with grass and small scrub. The Waimea Valley carries Manuka trees.

Friday, 13:—Started at 8 a.m. for Mackellar’s Station and arrived there at 10. I started in the afternoon to walk across the plains to the Hokanuis and returned at 7 p.m. The grass gone over to-day is generally good but thin and affected with scrub. The head of the Waimea comes out of two branches which run through a plain alternating swamp and dry. ’Hie north aspect of the Hoknnuis is here fronted by a plain of rough grass and the hills themselves are very scrubby. There are two or three small bushes at Mackellar’s Station, formerly a Maori settlement. Many Moa bones are found about, some shown me two inches in diameter. It is supposed that these bones are collections of the birds killed by the Maoris. The remnants of their futtahs or stores are there and the bones do not appear more than 30 or 40 years old. Weather fine but windy at west. Saturday, 14th:—The day has been raining till sunset, when it cleared up. We started at 9 a.m. to-day along the ranges till we arrived on the bank of the Oreti. We camped at the junction of North Creek with it. The country passed over bears superior grasses but much overrun with the thorny plant called “the Wil'd Irishman.” Formation is trap and gritty shales. As we have gradually lost plates, knives and forks, we are existing in the manner of savages—boiling our flesh and fowl, when we are so lucky as to get them, in our tea can—kneading our dough in our waterproof coats and baking our bread in the hot ashes of our camp fire. Our table is the grass and our seats the branch of a tree or a stone. Our beds ever since we left Invercargill have been the ground, covered with cut grass and oil-cloth over that. We have always had sugar and tea and damper. The occasional event of flesh gives this species of food the greater relish when we can get it. Wet as we often are all day, and bedded on the damp ground at night, we have thriven amazingly. The best of all blessings, good health, has attended us. To-day is more interesting in scenery and topographical interest than hitherto. The plains of upper Oreti are level and the enclosing mountains high and rugged at times, at others sloping, and soft at others. Timber appears in abundance to the north in the Eyre range—and the valley leads north, low and easy to look at. Is this the road into the in-, terior?

Sunday, 15th:—We shifted camp 8 miles further north to be ready for the ascent of Dome mountain in the morning, and here pitched our tent in a small outlying bush of giant box-wood, well situated for our observations both long, and alt., which would here be taken if possible. A new plant has appeared to-day in the shape of a prickly spear-grass or cactus, locally called Spaniards. They have sharp points and stout blades, no gentle objects to encounter. The country here is much overrun with these and Wild Irishmen, so much so that it was a matter of some difficulty to drag our horses through them, as the poor animals were alternately scratched by the prickles of the Irishman and speared by the Spaniard. The day has been fine on the whole — showers in the afternoon. The formation is trap and allied rocks.

CUPOLA AND DOME. ASCENT AND OBSERVATIONS. Monday, 16th:—I started at 7 with Lindsay for the top of the Cupola and Dome mountains and got up to the first by 10. Having finished the observation there, we kept along a connecting range and got to the Dome by half past twelve and descending by half past two, got home at half past five, thoroughly tired. The Dome is 4826 feet high and commands a most extensive prospect from the Molyneux Bay to the Bay of Tywiwy (Te-Waewae)— all Mataura and Waiopai Plains with the valley of Jacobs River and Waiau. Water frozen at the top and the vegetation consists of snow-grass, rushes and sprigs of heather. Some pretty flowers are to be found half way up, amongst them the mountain daisy, having a white fringe and yellow centre. A ground berry called New Zealand strawberry formed an agreeable though rather insipid repast to our parched lips. The taste is that of the rose apple of India. We scratched our names on a flint stone and buried it under a cairn at the top of the Dome. The formation is trap and allied rock. The day has been beautifully clear and warm. To the N.N.E. an opening appears over which no high land is visible. This, I would say, was the Lake .District. The two principal heads of

the Tomagulak arise out of the Eyre Range—going to the north of the Dome then proceeding to the base of East Dome, issues at where we camped. The panorama of the Dome was magnificent and the high snow-clad ranges of Eyre to the W. and N. and the extensive plains already mentioned to the S. and E. The hills bear good grass half way from the base. Tuesday, 17 th:—To-day hoped to have got the lat. by circum-m. alts, but disappointed by the dullness of the weather. Lindsay shot 10 paradise ducks. Weather fine—this evening sunshiny. Have obtained star observations at 10 p.m. Wednesday, 18th:—The day was dull so I did not get observations for lat., so contented myself with 6 obs. yesterday and two of stars. We started at 1, passing to the right thousands of acres of dead burnt forest and continued across the Oreti upper plains till we fell in with the swamp, which occupied us two hours to head. We camped at 8, making the theodolite stand and gun poles for our tent. No grass being obtainable, our bedding was spread on the bare ground. The day has been very windy but dry. The grass passed over is superior. Formation partly drift shingle of modem date. North end of Taringatura Downs, trap. Thursday, 19th:—We started early and, keeping the east bank of Jacobs River, arrived at the gorge where we struck down the river bed to avoid the hills. The grass is all superior and formation trap or metamorphous rocks. The river bed shows porphyry, chert, granite and amygdaloids, showing that the many peaked range is composed of these. The impression of a fossil bivalve was found in a compact cherty stone. We examined for gold in the crossing ledges but found none. Indeed, of minerals I have only seen one indication, and this a slight one at the Dome. This was of iron found amongst the shingle of a gully in protoxide state. The day has been dull and rainy. Before leaving I must state that appearance of low Comet was seen N.N.E. of Dome Mountains and N. and W. of Mount Hamilton.

Mr Thomson’s diary ends here, but his field-books record observations taken until the end of March throughout the western portion of the province and the Waiau Valley, and he had noted parts of Lake Te Anau, and the bush clad mountain ranges of the West Coast. There is mention also of such names as Jackson’s Run, Raymond’s Hill, Scott’s Run—all well known names—and several others, thus showing the early settlement that had taken place in distant parts of the province before 1856-57.

At the end of the book is a long list of suitable and appropriate names for a new district, and several of them are now well known names of places and rivers in Southland, such as Ryal, Lintley, Etal, Chatton, etc. Also, as Mr Thomson had camped at the upper end of Spar Bush, as shown on one of his sketches, and was often traversing the Oreti Plains, it is possible that the township of Drummond later got its name after Drummond, one of his staff, so often mentioned in his diary. After finishing his Reconnaissance Survey, Mr Thomson prepared a very complete map embodying the results of his investigations of this, the southern portion of Otago Province, afterwards known as Southland, a drawing of which is a much prized document in possession of the Invercargill Survey Office to-day.