IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3993, 23 September 1930, Page 59

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

(Special for the Otago Witness.) Many pleasing modes are shown for evening wear. The designers abroad being unanimous that evening frocks must be long, the smartest are insteji length all round. The mode is graceful, yet practical, for a summer dinner or dance frock may be worn for formal afternoon functions, and the even hemline of instep length showing a glimpse of neat slippered toe is suitable for both occasions. The natural waistline should be defined by a narrow tailored belt, sometimes finished by a jewelled buckle. .

. Skirts show many styles. They are tiered; they have a classical fitted hipline; they have long, graceful lines falling from the waist; and they are in petalled or panel effects, the panels sometimes being ruffled so as to flare the skirt decidedly. There are also many versions of the short coat effect (the chic eneemble style) and the capelet. Short petalled capelets complement frocks of light fabric. Flattery chiffon jackets with ruffles around the edge and short sleeves are a characteristic Molyneux detail.

Scarves of self material are very much to the fore. Scarves draped around the shoulders or the hjpliiie make an attractive way of giving the new draped line. The scarf may be worn as shoulder wrap. A chiffon handkerchief fully a yard square or a triangular

shawl of chiffon with a ruffled edge is a simple and practical way to achieve the draped effect for the amateur, as many of the draped frocks and wraps are too complicated for the amateur woman to try to make successfully. The simplest frock can be made picturesque by a scarf arranged in a simple way. A last season’s frock can be made the smartest creation, by a long matching scarf draped around the shoulders and knotted towards the back, with the ends falling to below the waistline.

There are_ certain fabrics that are especially suitable for the summer evening frock. Fabrics that can be worn in the afternoon and that lend themselves to the line are lace, printed taffeta, printed chiffon, printed georgette, delicate silk net, and crepe satin. The printed fabrics are delightful and show beautiful floral designs in patterns medium and large. Lace, too, is quite outstanding in the spring mode for evening and formal afternoon wear. One sees frocks of all lace, filmy and delicate lace-trimmed frocks, and even lace-trimmed shoes. Lace is to.be the smartest trimming, and is in keeping with the picturesque feminine mode. The younger set will wear ■white chiffon or organdie frocks lavishly lace trimmed, and to be in the height of fashion a posy of natural flowers at the waistline or a tiny posy of natural flowers clasping the scarf or capelet. All pastel shades predominate. There is a particular liking for pale pink allied with old rose. Tinted whites and black are decidedly smart. The lace frock will be seen in black, rose beige, bright red. all shades of blue, tones of pyellow, and the off-white tints. Bright green lace is also to be popular. Such shades are delicate and summery.. Pastel tints and black are the colours of the new long gloves. Long gloves are a necessity, and charmingly balance a

not-too-low-cut back and a long skirt. A fascinating new fashion is shown when bracelets are worn outside the gloves, and in place ox the usual necklace a jewelled

pin adorns one shoulder towards the front.

This illustrates a very charming frock of printed chiffon in rose petal tones. The skirt may be of even length all round if preferred. The cape is prettily designed and mounted to a yoke effect and draped to tie at the centre front. As the cape is separate, it may be smartly transferred to the waist. Vionnet is fond of giving a change this way. The frock could be made of blue lace over flesh tint, and of ankle length. The slip worn with this frock should have a deep lace hemline.

A beautiful printed chiffon frock (or printed georgette if a slightly less delicate fabric is preferred) showed a print on a pastel ground. The skirt was composed of six godets cleverly inlet into a tight-fitting scalloped hip yoke. The bodice was cut with a scalloped yoke into which a bertha (loose over the shoulders) was arranged. Many of the floral patterns on chiffon frocks are often so large that two are cut out and picot edged or bound to make the little capelet, and another two the basque.

A black chiffon evening frock I saw was fashioned with a gauged princess top, into which was set a double skirt of box pleats cut in such a novel, uneven fashion that it was quite impossible to tell one tier from the other at a first glance. It was finished at the waistline with a narrow tailored belt with a coralcoloured buckle. A coral pin was placed on the shoulder. A black net frock spotted with white chenille was fashioned with a double-tiered skirt, the top tier of which was bordered at the sides ■with silver fox. The decolletage in front was heart shaped, as many of the front decolletages are.

Chiffon in a lovely tinted pink shade is used for this model, with its sheer lace top, yoke,. little puff sleeves, and skirt insert. The frock should be ankle length. A moulded bodice is slightly shirred at the back and adorned with self material

small flat bows placed at the natural waistline. A short velvet cape to be worn over this frock and held round the figure should be fashioned with a narrowly turned-back collar and half-length sleeves.

The ensemble of supple lame will be worn for the more elaborate evening functions. An ensemble of lame I saw comprised a princess frock, tight fitting to the knees, where it burst into loose, pointed panels, trailing at the sides. Its short coat, with a circular hem, was bordered all the way round with blue fox. The lame was a golden and green weave.

Bows are put to great use in the designing of evening models, frocks and wraps. With frocks they are nearly always E laced at the back and on - one side, or old drapery, flares, and capelets in position. An evening wrap of flimsyfabric may be draped to tie almost anywhere at the back or side of the waistline, or a soft bow may smartly adorn one shoulder.

The flowered taffeta frock will be most popular for evening wear. Once the taffeta evening gown was considered suitable only for the very young girl who had just made her debut. Now taffeta is worn by women of all ages. The model illustrated is in pastel tones on a soft blue background. A gold taffeta bow is placed at the waistline with becoming

smartness. Now that large bows are placed at the hips or the back of the evening gown, taffeta is well to the fore, as no other silk is so suited for the bustle bow. The taffeta gowns are accompanied by little coats of the same material to form an ensemble, while patterned lame coats are worn over plain

taffeta gowns and finished with flattering fur collars. Some are made tight fitting round the waist, with a matching band of white fur, ermine, or grey fur.

The _ accessories are all important. Hose in delicate pastel tones harmonise with each particular frock, and the pinnacle of smartness is arrived at when the slipper and the frock feature the same shade. Crepe de chine and moire are especially suitable fabrics for tinting to match the frock worn. The top shoe illustrated is of white moire silk with jewelled buckle fastening and silver kid pipings, and is the shoe to accompany the off-white youthful frock. The centre shoe is one of the more elaborate styles of evening shoes made of fine white or pastel-tinted crepe de chine, with trim-

mings of gold and silver kid and tiny jewels to match the jewelled buckle fastening. Note the motifs on the vamp and the very narrow straps. The bottom shoe, for dressy afternoon wear and evening functions, is of pastel blue fine kid piped wtih a darker tone of blue. The folded overlay at the side is indeed smart and original. Pastels, especially blue, for both afternoon and evening wear, are the season’s favourites. Next in importance, a fit companion for summer dance and afternoon frocks, are linen slippers, dyed to match dainty chiffon frocks or having an all-over embroidery -of blended colourings.

Short hair is still favoured by many women. A charming new shingle showed the hair brushed lightly to one side and three perfect waves across the back. It is a matter of good taste how one dresses one’s hair, and both long and short hair are fashionable. Real flowers are also worn again in the hair. If the hair is long a single bloom or a cluster of two or three smaller flowers is worn just above the ear or at the back of the head.