OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 3958, 21 January 1930, Page 17

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

INDICATIONS OF CONTINUED GOOD DEMAND FOR WOOL. (From Our Special Correspondent.) BRADFORD, November 14. Reference has often been made in this letter to the subject of quality in wool and its products, the object being to show that quality- in the raw material has a very’ important bearing upon the same characteristic in tops, yarns, and piece goods. It is interesting to note in this connection that it has never been possible to reach anything like a common agreement among sellers and users about noil quality standards. It is perhaps correct to say that other things besides quality’ go more towards determining the market value of this commodity than is the case in tops and yarns. There is, of course, almost infinite scope in the two latter, but it is a fact of experience that greater divergencies of opinion exist about noils than about other things. At the present time there is easily a difference of 3d per lb between clean and burry’ 64’s noils, and if one were to go all round the market getting the ideas of individual firms it would not be at all surprising to find 6d difference between one firm and another for noils which are practically’ the same in quality, length, etc. The price asked naturally depends partly upon the price at which the article (or the wool it comes from) has been bought One merchant may have noils to offer at less money’ than another, though samples taken from both lots are identical in every respect.

I am now specially dealing, however, with quality, and the comments here made should be of no little educational value. In dealing with the subject it should be borne in mind that some firms in Bradford produce better quality tops than others, though the same quality number may be used by all of them. Sorters who have been many years in the trade sometimes tell their apprentices what in their younger days would have been called 46’s is now described as 48’s. The 56’s top made by a certain firm is equal to the socalled 58’s sold by many’ others. In other words, there-has been a declension in quality standards since the war. The 64’s tops now sold by some firms are no better than old-time super 60’s, while it is possible to find super 64’s (really 66’s) which are actually quite as fine as most tops sold as 70’s. It follows from this that there is considerable variation in noil quality standards. A topmaker who calls a certain blend of wool 64’s and sells the

top for that quality is not likely to call the resultant noil 60s, though the toji itself is no finer than somebody else's 60’s. In view of this and various other possibilities. it is not surprising that disjmtes occasionally arise. This week the writer lias seen a sample of noils sold as super 4iis. According to impartial opinion it was ordinary 44's that is. a shade finer than the seller stated. The bu.vc. of the noils had to admit that the bulk delivered was equal to the sample. In that case it was not a material fact whether the noils wei e called 40's or 44’s, If the buyer sees a sample and considers that bulk deliveries showing the same characistics will answer his purpose, he has no right to complain if he gets what he asks for. It will never lie possible to draw up hard and fast rules about qualities, but if after personal examination of samples a choice is made and prices fixed a buyer has something to work upon as a common standard between himself and the party’ from whom he buys. WOOL A WORLD COMMODITY. This letter is being written two days after Armistice Day. On Sunday the anniversary was made an occasion of solemn observation in many cities throughout this countiy, and on Monday the two minutes' silence was again observed. What has thus been done in the centres of population is a reflection of the feeling of the shepherd and the ploughman as well as the city wool magnate. After having made these comments it would be inappropriate in any way to flaunt the British Empire in face of any other country, and it is only stating a well-known fact to say’ that the forces of the Allies would have fared very badly so far as clothing is concerned but for wool supplies from Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. German soldiers were nothing like so yvell clothed. A fact which everyone can thankfully consider is that, whilst 60 per cent, of the world's wool is grown within the British Empire, it is now, as before the war, offered for sale in markets to yvhich representatives of all countries have free access. In this sense there are no British allies. The Bradford topmaker either has to pay the competitive price or drop out. There is no monopoly or favouritism for him here. Some narrow-minded individuals have advocated putting an export duty on wool going to foreign countries, but the yvriter cannot conceive such a retrograde step being taken. No one who yvishes to see the peace of the world cemented will yvish to see the clock put back 150 years. At that date a duty- had to bo paid on exported English yvool, and afterwards Parliament imposed a duty on imported wool. These duties ceased to be operative about 100 years ago. For the sake of growers being able to make a good price for their yvool and for the sake of users in all countries, it is preeminently desirable that no such inane legislation shall ever be introduced again. In the United States the result of a duty on imported yvool is quite different from what appears to be intended. Instead of being protected United States groyvers

are exploited. BRITISH AND FRENCH FABRICS. A very interesting “ open letter ” has been sent b.v a “group of French manufacturers ” to Mr John Emsley, the yvellknoyvn Bradford manufacturer of dress goods. This letter congratulates Bradford industrialists, and states that French firms are making serious textile propaganda and publicity’ efforts, particularly in their own country. The letter continues: “ Our publicity, however, yvill not be complete unless yve are able to name English yvoollen specialties, the type of fabrics for yvhich your manufacturers are particularly’ well placed in England to market throughout the world, and yvhich therefore interest a proportion of the French clientele. It is very desirable that Roubaix should be able to sell in England those fabrics yvhich it is in a better position to produce than Bradford. There is, therefore, a place for our tyvo countries, and in this connection an entente should give excellent results.” This raises a very’ big question, and emphasises the main difference betyveen Bradford and French cloths. Dress goods and suitings made here on the worsted principle are sounder than similar cloths made in France. Here yve havs a more extensive use of tyvofold warps, and this makes a big difference, even if the cloth is woven yvith yvoollen weft. For men’s fancy’ fabrics cotton used to be very extensively employed, and whilst artificial silk has largely taken its place, the method of cloth construction and the type of raw material generally used results in very sound fabrics being turned out. The dress goods made in France are of much softer handle, big quantities of merino and fine crossbred wool being absorbed, and though this raw material has not the length of staple suitable for

Bradford combing machinery there is no doubt it gives excellent handling results in the piece b.v being manipulated on the Continental system. It yvill be interesting to learn how the letter is received b.v other influential members of the trade. So tar Air Emsley has not felt at liberty to express any’ opinion, but it is yvell known yvhat our manufacturers think about certain things. It is impossible to overlook the disparity in yvages paid to operatives in this country and on the Continent It is being found impossible here to foree yvages down as far as many firms desired, and the writer yvill not be surprised to see a suggestion made to French manufacturers that there should be some levelling up in their basis of yvages. The yvages paid by French manufacturers being 30 to 40 per cent, loyver than ours certainly seems unfair. This, however, is largely’ a matter for adjustment by French manufacturers themselves. The point that impresses the yvriter most is that Frenh firms are very much alive to the possibilities of textile manufacture. '1 hey’ are evidently’ hoping to bo able to compete as closely as ever yvith the West Riding of Yorkshire. This yvill all tell beneficially upon the demand for yvool, and points to somewhere about the current level of values being maintained.