IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3234, 8 March 1916, Page 69

IN FASHION'S REALM.

By MAnauEßim

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES

Waistful or waistless ! You can be either and still in the fashion. Thus, you can accentuate your waist with a coat and skirt costume which at first moulds the figure closely and then flares into a considerable fullness bordered with velvet or, as it may be later, fur. And the addition of a quaint, tippet-like cape, eventually collared with fur, will be another decorative addition. Now, this selection, more simply described for the silhouette, will consist of a coat to within a few inches of the hern of a short ekirt, bodice fairly straight though snug, tippet suggestive of coachman's cape, skirt of coat coming out in broad boxpleats, skirt itself, as visible, a plain continuation. Picture it in bottle green, navy, petunia, or brown, velvet or braid to border, or, as I said for later, fur, with a coachman's hat and a pair of Russian boots for the finish. Suppose you do not like these long coats. Well, although they are the more stylish, you can have a short basque, or you can, if you like, have a very loose coat, the fullness of which is cleverly introiduced by means of a series of gusset-like panels. In this way its astonishing measurement of 3gyds about the hem will be secured without a suspicion of clumsiness. The skirt of such a selection will also be very full, but the skilful modelling will disguise this, and, incidentally, if the coat is worn open it may reveal, in contrast to the demureness of the blue serge and black braid used for the selection, a lining of brocaded crepe de chine of geranium tint, with blouse to match. So much for the waistful. Suppose, instead, you want to be the other thing. Well, there is the new coat dress, which is a coat only if you say "coat" first, and no coat at all if you say "frock" instead. In other words, it is an absolutely "smooth" frook, neck to ankle, which is given a coat effect in this manner: closing centre front, broad horizontal band across bust, low belt, plain above the former, this and latter united by perpendicular braids, two either side of closing; then, below the belt, the braids continued for an equal distance over two box-pleats, these running down to the hem of the skirt, with the folds of the fullness otherwise to assist; and the hem a repetition of the bust band. I think you can follow all this, the extras being a close collar with petal turn, ordinary sleeve with egg-boiler cuff, and such picked out with braid; and, for the finish, throe oval buttons above bust band, with extra for collar, throe between bust band and belt, with extra for this, and three below, so placed that they will be in threes; and three buttons on cuff. Take a moderately dark cloth, and use a black braid; but in this selection for a very smart effect centre the belt of self with patent leather. All these selections call for suitable hats and perfect footwear. Everyone can _be suited with a hat, as there are wide brims, narrow brims that are a mere curl, and hats with no brims at all; velvet toques fitting over the head like a. close helmet, everything drawn from a buckle placed crosswise on the crown, and the back raised in two great bow-loops; Scotch caps with a close band and extended floppy top, with a beaded bird in front; semi-military forage caps with all kinds of liberties taken with the inspiration, and high attenuated plumes; Cossacks, both smooth and rumpled, high and only moderately high, and worn well over the head to back; Welsh hats with the buckle ornament I previously mentioned; and coachman hats which are really modified Beau Brummells, swathed for the band with buckle and feather tip—all theso hats will be very smart wear. And, as for boots, the more fashionable choice lies between the Russian and the smooth cloth-topped boot, the patent part of which is limited to top and side to ''waist" and the heel, such lacing inner side or outer, or in front with tasselled tops. Wo must now consider autumn with the curtain fully raised, and summer a memory. One of the newest things is the cape attachment, the skirt broken with a line to suggest two garments, the waist with no moro than the natural folds. This cape will be found a very smart selection, albeit it docs

not draw as well as it looks in the real. It is emphatically clever, as the yoke lino suggests a oord, and might, indeed, bo that with such to outline the closing and the

frfck-ofl: from the skirt. Tho idea comes rom tho officei-'i, lilitu capo— tho one which ia worn thrown >ack, and tho turn .will enable you to display the lining to extra advantage, in which connection tho

collar repeats the second colour and the cuff assists.

"Butterfly" sounded the herald's note from London about trimmings in these terms: —"Whatever the fabric, colour, or style of your gown, coat, or costume, it is certain that it will be trimmed with fur. This has never before been used in such profusion, or with such effective results. Primarily, it is generally responsible for the making, and the cosiness, of the newest high collars and the wide banding about coats and skirts; but you will also find it narrowly edging the filmy and full overskirts of net, which are so frequently completed by a contrasting corsage of velvet. And, again, it will be seen on the high boots and, for a. crowning triumph, on hats and toques of velvet or panne, or, again, of net —a frivolous and quite transparent crown of gold net veiled with black tulle being, perhaps, broadly banded about with skunk fur, in whose dark softness a single rose shimmers out in silver or blushes in pink. An even more sensational use for fur is the placing on a toque of black velvet of two fox heads, which meet together at the top of its pointed crown, one being definitely and beautifully tawny in tint, and the other of the cross shadings which blend yellow-and-grey and black-and-white so effectively, this being predestined for wear with a black velvet coat-dress, with fox-skins to match, mounted flatly and slun R picturesquely about the shoulders." Tho foregoing is what I may call a "high-light." Autumn in England is not autumn hero, but more closely linked with winter. To explain this better, while autumn in the Northern Hemisphere rushes to winter with open arms, in the iSouthern it leaves summer with some reluctance. The paragraph is quoted for its "points." Now wo arc going to have an economical season. Fine words are used, yes; but all that is beautiful and best is attained as easily as possible. When you speak of furtrimming it seems to savour of extravagance. It is really the other way about. One of the chief aims of the designer has been to achieve a good result at little cost, and so all kinds of tricks have been approved to work in remnants and so permit of renovations. Here is a beautiful little dress, and yet a very simple one. It con-

gists of one of those swathed bodices that delight all who choose them with tunic and skirt. There are two materials either in marked contrast or not, velvet for the base, and, as you see, this latter makes tho bodice, skirt, and cuffs. It is wonderful how effective a dress, of this character is, and please observe that I shall return to it In the fourth illustration. Now let us hear what a very entertaining writer has to say direct from Paris, her date 'being for the present in this country. "Some of the up-to-date short skirts have a broad edging of fur around the hem matching the collar and cuffs of the coat, while afternoon gowns of soft taffetas, the skirt formed of triple or quadruple flounces, are narrowly edged with a finger width of fur, that also outlines the corsage of mousseline de soie, dark over light, tho former very charmingly embroidered with dull gold, silver, or aluminum enzoued by a swathing of_ satin. The allround open neck is a thing of the past. Collars, very high behind with flaring points in front, are the mode of the moment, while coloured cambric collars and guimpes are to be seen on all sides, giving a finish to the dark tailor suits certainly; but I am not quice sure that they are an improvement on tho all and purely white collar that is always so becoming to everyone, no matter her age. In pale blue, mauve, salmon-pink, and maize these turnover collars are for the time being übiquitous."

Then again: "Tho picturesque marquis hat of black velvet ie cropping up again, and quite successfully. It needs little, if any, trimming, and its neat outlines are becoming to most faces. Hats of panne or short-haired plush or beaver aro trimmed with just a band around the crown, and a velvet or other buckle_ upon the front. The buckle as hat trimming is much adopted, placed either on tho side or front. It gives a stylish effect to the small hats and a Breton-like appearance to headgear with broader brim. Some of the small, closelyfitting, wine-coloured turban toques in velvet have a swallow, a rose and leaves, or a cluster of acorns, embroidered in steel beads quite flatly on the left side—no other trimming,—and tho effect is fairly good. Other toques have a garniture of flat leaves around the brim, or a garland of shaded velvet, beironia or lobelia petals set flatly around the lower portion of the hat. The bluish-violet flowers on black velvet arc very pretty. Feathers and fur upon hats

and caps will now have their innings, but subdued modes will prevail." The French designer was never better advertised. As he—it is generally a manhas done so little for this season, much of the work of originating has been thrown on others. While they nave succeeded well enough, nevertheless there is often something missing, and occasionally it is what we may call the master touch. For example, this is the bodice section of a dress the skirt of which has three flounces from the knee over underskirt. Any dressmaker will recognise its beauty of line. The design was made by one of the' master-

hands of Paris, and was selected by a London critic for its purity. As you will see, the collar is a turn from the shoulder with gathers to make the form, and the sweeping curves provide a decolletage with a demure cross-inset. The shoulder gives the drop-sleeve with strap, and the sides arc in the form of a shield into which the fronts are very prettily drawn. These new designs seem simple enough, but try and originate one that will have the recommendations of novelty and purity. It is a most difficult task.

As I said before, the petticoat has come into its own again. Even here we have style with economy. Thus study this London note: —

" One famous firm hae just brought out a shapely petticoat of leversible silk, one side bein<? plain, and the other patterned and in different colourings altogether, but both alike being equally well finished off, and, by the ingenious arrangement of the stud fasteners, ready either to be brought into outer prominence or to retire into the privacy of a lining, which means that two or three different fikirts can he equally well suited by a single petticoat." From this our fair informant launches into economical selections otherwise, and singles out a coat. Thus: "I have seen a charming one modelled on Russian lines, one side being of fine face cloth and the other of chiffon velvet, and even the seams are so cleverly treated ns to be a decoration. The advantage of this ' turn-coat' is that you can present the cloth side to the world in daytime wear and the velvet in evening as when going to the theatre." And then generally: " Altogether it seem? to me that our attempts to be practical and economical are both serious and successful. And they are the more praisew< . hy because they are not permitted to interfere with that charm and smartness which is-, in my opinion, more necessary to-day than ever." Again a millinery i.ote, and this time on charm. There is a considerable one in the velvet or panne shape, whose shadowing brim is softened by an edging of lightly curled ostrich feathers, juet one fullblown rose of shaded silk or velvet or shimmering metallic ncr, being dropped lightly down in front. There are countless new models of equally striking dilFcrent style—velvet, panne, velours, suede, satin. silk, moire, net, and tulle all being available as their fabrics, while for their possible and pretty trimming there arc llowers of every imaginable kind, wonderful and weird or else absolutely natural; for banding's and bindings; feathers ranging from the tiniest tips to the lengthiest and loveliest plumes; shimmering coque or soft grcbo

plumage; ribbons galore; fringes of silk, too; and actually some silken braids, finished off with metallic tags in a way which makes their likeness to bootlaces still more pronounced. Now return to the full figure and then stud.y this. I have superimposed with lower part of the ekirt the girdle section of the swathed bodice with just enough of the lines below to indicate the connection. Not everyone likes a tunic. Here, then, we have the skirt itself, but observe

that the front has a cascading fold. If the drawing were complete you would find that the effect was as though the cross-over of the bodice, having been buckled, fell in a curtain-like extension resolving with the skirt, this, of course gradually widening out from a double buckle width to what you see. It is an elegant treatment, which, if well worked, is sure to please. A line on veils! The dainty decorative one which wc loved so well, and lost all too soon, is not quite banished, as we thought and feared. But it is reappearing in a modest round —rather like a tablecentre, so that it may eventually end a decorative career 'n another and useful way ! —which, when thrown over a small hat, just overhangs the brim by about an inch. and so softens it very becomingly and coquetti'shly. And other and voluminous veils there are too, which arc gathered closely about the crowns of rather widebrimmed hats, some of the fulness being then allowed to hang far down over the shoulders, while the shorter front is caught into a band of fur for close fastening about the throat.

B3T Descriptions 01 bails, &c, roust be endorsed by either the Witness correspondent for the district or by the secretary of the bail committee. The MS. of any correspondents who do not comply with this rule will be sent to the secretary for endorsement prior to appearing.—ELlZAßETH.

To ensure publication in the forthcoming issue letters should reach the Witness otlice U possible on Saturday night, but on no account later than Monday night. WEDDING AT INVERCARGILL. A pretty wedding was celebrated in First Church, Invercargill, on Tuesday morning-, February 29, the contracting parties being Mr W. D. Anderson, third son of Mrs Chase, City road, Roslyn, Dunedin, and Martha, fourth daughter of Mr and Mrs James Brewster, Tokanui. The church was decorated with flowers and greenery by friends of the bride, and the ceremony was performed by the Rev. R. M. Ryburrl, M.A. The bride, who was given sway by her father, wore- a beautiful dress of white crepe do chine trimmed with Malines laoe and pearls, with a train of Malines lace lined with palest pink ninon, a-nd wiih tiny pink bows of the same material down the centre, and embroidered at the foot with a large true lovers' knot in pearls. She also wore the customary veil and wreath of orange blossoms, and carried a bouquet of lilies, roj?es, and maidenhair fern. The bride was attended by her sisters, Miss Flossie and Miss Daisy Brewster, attired in pretty blue dresses, with white mob caps trimmed with wreaths of small coloured flowers, while Mr David Brewster (brother of the bride) discharged the duties of best man. After the ceremony the wedding party left the church to the strains of the "Wedding March," played by the organist, Miss Hay, and, with the guests, proceeded to the Federal Tea Rooms, where a bountiful breakfast was partaken of, and the usual toasts proposed and responded to with musical honours. The bride and bridegroom left by the afternoon expres3 for the north amidst a shower of confetti, the bride travelling in a smart, eand-colcured costume and a pale blue hat trimmed with a wreath of wild flowers. The happy couple were the recipients of many handsome and useful presents, including a set of silver entree dishes from the directors of Rattray and Co. (Ltd.), Dunedin, while the bride was presented with a nice afternoon tea set by the nursing staff of the Dunedin Hospital, of which body she was till recently a member.—A Guest.